GIFT  OF 


- 


V 


i 


i 


- 


OF  THE 
COLLEGE  OF 


THE 


AMERICAN   GARDENER'S 
CALENDAR. 


THE 


AMERICAN  GARDENER'S 
CALENDAR,       ^ 


ADAPTED  TO  THE 


CLIMATE  AND  SEASONS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES: 

CONTAINING 

A  COMPLETE  ACCOUNT  OF  ALL  THE  WORK  NECESSARY  TO  BE  DONE 


KITCHEN-GARDEN,  PLEASURE-GROUND, 

FRUIT-GARDEN,  FLOWER-GARDEN, 

ORCHARD,  GREEN-HOUSE, 

VINEYARD,  HOT-HOUSE,  AND 

NURSERY,  FORCING-FRAMES, 

FOR  EVERY  MONTH  IN  THE  YEAR; 

WITH 

AMPLE  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  PERFORMING  THE  SAME. 

ALSO, 

GENERAL  AS  WELL  AS  MINUTE  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  LAYING  OUT  OR  ERECTING  EACH  AND  EVERY  OF  THE 

ABOVE  DEPARTMENTS  ACCORDING  TO  MODERN  TASTE  AND  THE  MOST  APPROVED  PLANS  ;  THE 

ORNAMENTAL  PLANTING  OF  PLEASURE-GROUNDS,  IN  THE  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN 

STYLE,  THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THORN  QUICKS  AND  OTHER  PLANTS 

SUITABLE  FOR  LIVE  HEDGES,  WITH  THE  BEST  METHODS 

OF  MAKING  THEM,  ETC. 

TO  WHICH  ABE  ANNEXED 

CATALOGUES  OF  KITCHEN-GARDEN  PLANTS  AND  HERBS  J   AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS  ] 

MEDICINAL  PLANTS  J   AND  THE  MOST  IMPORTANT  GRASSES,  ETC.,  USED  IN  RURAL 

ECONOMY,  WITH  THE  SOIL  BEST  ADAPTED  TO  THEIR  CULTIVATION  J 

TOGETHER  WITH 

A  COPIOUS  INDEX  TO  THE  BODY  OF  THE  WORK. 


BY 

BERNARD  M'MAHON. 
i» 

©bitten,  featlg  (Bnlargeb,  gmgrofob,  attb  IUwsfrateb. 


iSnP 


'PHILADELPHIA: 

J.    B.    OT^PINCOTT    AND    CO. 

1857. 


V 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1857,  by 
J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  AND  CO., 

in  the  Office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  in  and  for 
the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ELEVENTH  EDITION. 


M'MAHON'S  GAEDENING  is  by  far  the  most  comprehensive, 
complete,  and  best  work  that  has  been  written  for  America. 
The  advantages  of  minute  detail  will  be  found  to  consist  in 
teaching  how  to  perform  many  important  operations,  which  those 
having  gardens  should  understand  the  rationale  of,  whether  they 
practise  them  all  or  not.  Improved  machinery  and  apparatus 
have  not  superseded  knowledge,  and  there  are  thousands  of  small 
gardens  where  many  of  these  detailed  operations  may  still  be 
practised  with  economy  and  advantage. 

The  work  has  undergone  great  improvements  in  this  edition, 
having  been  carefully  read  by  one  of  our  best  practical  gardeners, 
and  in  important  particulars  brought  up  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
day.  The  newer  vegetables  are  carefully  noted,  and  a  very  few 
passages  that  are  not  now  relevant  have  been  expunged,  such  as 
the  long  description  of  the  mode  of  cultivation  of  madder,  and 
substances  that  time  has  exploded  in  American  gardens. 

Wood-cuts  have  been  inserted  to  add  interest  to  the  work,  and 
altogether  the  publishers  present  the  volume  with  confidence  to 
the  amateur  and  the  practical  gardener,  as  one  which  will  bear 
careful  study.  They  have  also  procured  a  brief  memoir  of  the 
author,  that  so  valuable  a  man's  name  "  may  not  perish  from 
among  the  people." 


23GMP.1 


ORIGINAL  PREFACE. 


THE  general  utility  of  HORTICULTURE,  or  the  art  of  improving 
every  kind  of  soil;  of  producing  a  plentiful  supply  of  wholesome 
vegetables  and  fruits,  so  necessary  to  health  in  all  countries, 
especially  in  warm  climates;  of  cultivating  the  various  plants 
designed  by  INFINITE  GOODNESS  to  minister  to  the  comforts  of 
animal  life,  by  correcting  the  divers  maladies  to  which  it  is  sub- 
ject by  nature,  and  still  more  so,  in  the  human  race,  by  intem- 
perance; of  raising  many  articles  of  luxury  and  commerce,  as 
well  as  materials  for  ornamenting  the  whole  face  of  the  country — 
is  too  obvious  to  render  any  arguments  necessary  in  favor  of  an 
attempt  to  facilitate  the  general  acquisition  of  that  useful  branch 
of  knowledge;  but  more  especially  in  a  country  which  has  not 
yet  made  that  rapid  progress  in  Gardening,  ornamental  planting, 
and  fanciful  rural  designs,  which  might  naturally  be  expected 
from  an  intelligent,  happy,  and  independent  people,  possessed  so 
universally  of  landed  property,  unoppressed  by  taxation  or  tithes, 
and  blessed  with  consequent  comfort  and  affluence. 

The  neglect  in  these  respects  is,  no  doubt,  to  be  attributed  to 
various  causes,  among  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  the  neces- 
sity of  having  reference  for  information  on  those  subjects  to 
works  published  in  foreign  countries,  and  adapted  to  climates  by 
no  means  according  with  ours,  either  in  the  temperature  or  course 
of  the  seasons,  and  in  numerous  iD stances  differing  materially  in 
modes  of  culture  from  those  rendered  necessary  here  by  the  pecu- 
liarities of  our  climates,  soils,  and  situations.  And  however  ex- 
cellent and  useful  these  works  are  in  the  regions  to  which  they 
are  adapted,  they  tend  to  mislead  and  disappoint  the  young 
American  Horticulturist,  instead  of  affording  him  that  correct, 


Viii  ORIGINAL  PREFACE. 

judicious,  and  suitable  instruction,  the  happy  result  of  which 
would  give  impulse  to  his  perseverance. 

To  obviate  this  necessity,  as  much  as  is  in  my  power,  and  to 
contribute  my  mite  to  the  welfare  of  my  fellow  citizens,  and  to 
the  general  improvement  of  the  country,  I  have  undertaken  this 
work,  and  arranged  the  matter  according  to  the  seasons  of  the 
year,  that  the  reader  may  have  an  easy  reference  to  the  particular 
business  to  be  performed  in  every  month.  By  this  means  the 
subject  becomes  a  daily  amusement  and  study,  applicable  at  the 
moment,  and  consequently  leaving  a  lasting  impression  on  the 
memory;  which,  if  attended  to  for  a  few  years,  may  make  any 
person  who  has  a  taste  for  admiring  and  enjoying  the  magnifi- 
cence, beauties,  and  bounties  of  Nature  in  its  vegetable  produc- 
tions, a  complete  Master  of  the  Art,  and,  if  he  pleases,  his  own 
Gardener. 

In  writing  this  treatise,  I  have  had  recourse  to  the  best  publi- 
cations, American,  English,  French,  and  Latin,  lest  any  useful 
suggestions  or  modern  improvements  in  the  art  should  escape  my 
notice  or  recollection;  still  keeping  in  view,  not  only  the  differ- 
ence of  climate,  season,  and  the  necessary  modes  of  culture  in 
foreign  countries,  but  also  in  the  extensive  region  of  which  the 
United  States  are  composed.  It  is,  however,  probable,  notwith- 
standing all  my  assiduity  and  care  in  collecting  as  much  informa- 
tion as  possible  with  respect  to  the  most  proper  seasons  for  sowing 
particular  kinds  of  seeds,'  &c.,  in  the  remote  parts  of  the  Union,  that 
I  have  fallen  into  some  mistakes ;  for  these,  as  well  as  typographi- 
cal errors,  to  which  a  work  of  this  kind  is  unavoidably  subject,  I 
solicit  the  reader's  excuse;  and  shall  consider  myself  under  seri- 
ous obligations  to  those  whose  personal  friendship  or  patriotism 
shall  induce  them  to  inform  me  of  any  horticultural  errors  which 
I  may  have  committed,  or  improvements  that  may  be  made,  in 
order  that  the  former  be  corrected,  and  the  latter,  if  justified  by 
experience,  published  in  some  future  work,  or  edition  of  this. 

The  culture  and  management  of  Grape- Vines,  and  all  other 
kinds  of  fruit-trees  which  can  be  cultivated  with  us  to  advantage, 
or  even  to  indulge  curiosity;  the  raising  and  planting  of  Thorn 
Quicks  and  other  plants  suitable  for  Live  Hedges;  the  cultivation 
of  Liquorice,  Khubarb,  Sea  Kale  (Cramle  maritima),  Cork-tree, 
Manna,  Ash,  Tanner's  Sumack  (Rhus  Coriaria),  Paper  Mulberry, 


ORIGINAL  PREFACE.  ix 

Mulberry-trees  for  feeding  Silk-worms  (and  care  of  the  insects), 
with  every  other  plant,  not  already  common,  which  appeared  to  me 
of  sufficient  importance,  either  in  a  commercial,  manufacturing,  or 
ornamental  point  of  view,  or  as  affording  any  of  the  luxuries  or 
necessaries  of  life,  have  been  treated  of  with  due  attention:  and 
in  order  to  accommodate  the  Agriculturist,  I  have  given  a  class- 
ical catalogue  of  the  most  important  and  valuable  grasses  and 
other  plants  used  in  rural  economy ;  and  likewise  pointed  out  the 
particular  kind  of  soil,  in  which  each  plant  cultivated  as  a  grass, 
or  exclusively  on  account  of  its  foliage,  has  been  found,  upon 
repeated  trials,  to  succeed  best. 

From  an  experience  which  I  have  had  of  near  thirty  years  in 
PRACTICAL  GARDENING,  on  a  general  and  extensive  scale;  the 
particular  pains  which  I  have  taken,  not  only  to  designate  the 
necessary  work  of  every  month,  but  also  the  best  methods  of  per- 
forming it;  the  avoiding  of  all  unnecessary  repetitions,  so  frequent 
in  works  of  the  kind,  in  order  to  render  it  as  full  of  important 
matter  as  possible;  the  assiduous  endeavors  to  make  it  useful  in 
every  State  of  the  Union,  and  to  induce  an  association  of  the  sci- 
ence of  Botany  with  practical  horticulture,  without  which  the 
latter  can  never  be  so  advantageously  conducted:  it  is  hoped  that 
this  will  be  found  to  be  the  most  useful  and  valuable  GARDENER'S 
CALENDAR  hitherto  published  in  any  country,  but  more  particu- 
larly so  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  for  whose  use  it  has 
been  written,  and  to  whom  it  is  respectfully  inscribed  by  the 
Author. 

BEKNAKD  M'MAHON. 

Philadelphia. 


BRIEF  MEMOIR  OF  BERNARD  M'MAHON. 


BERNARD  M'MAHON  was  no  common  man.  He  sought  the 
American  shores  from  political  motives,  as  is  understood,  but 
what  these  were  has  not  been  determined ;  most  probably  it  was 
necessary  to  fly  from  the  persecution  of  government.  He  found 
American  gardening  in  its  infancy,  and  immediately  set  himself 
vigorously  to  work  to  introduce  a  love  of  flowers  and  fruit.  The 
writer  well  remembers  his  store,  his  garden,  and  green-houses.  ' 
The  latter  were  situated  near  the  Grermantown  turnpike,  between 
Philadelphia  and  Nicetown,  whence  emanated  the  rarer  flowers 
and  novelties  such  as  could  be  collected  in  the  early  part  of  the 
present  century,  and  where  were  performed,  to  the  astonishment 
of  the  amateurs  of  that  day,  successful  feats  of  horticulture  that 
were  but  too  rarely  imitated. 

His  store  was  in  Second  Street,  below  Market,  on  the  east  side. 
Many  must  still  be  alive  who  recollect  its  bulk  window,  orna- 
mented with  tulip-glasses,  a  large  pumpkin,  and  a  basket  or  two 
of  bulbous  roots;  behind  the  counter  officiated  Mrs.  M'Mahonr 
with  some  considerable  Irish  accent,  but  a  most  amiable  and  ex- 
cellent disposition,  and  withal  an  able  saleswoman.  Mr.  M'Mahon 
was  also  much  in  the  store,  putting  up  seeds  for  transmission  to 
all  parts  of  this  country  and  Europe,  writing  his  book,  or  attend- 
ing to  his  correspondence,  and  in  one  corner  was  a  shelf  contain- 
ing a  few  botanical  or  gardening  books,  for  which  there  was  then 
a  very  small  demand ;  another  contained  the  few  garden  imple- 
ments, such  as  knives  and  trimming  scissors  ;  a  barrel  of  peas,  and 
a  bag  of  seedling  potatoes,  an  onion  receptacle,  a  few  chairs,  and 
the  room  partly  lined  with  drawers  containing  seeds,  constituted 
the  apparent  stock  in  trade  of  what  was  one  of  the  greatest  seed 


Xli  BRIEF  MEMOIR  OF  BERNARD  M'MAHON. 

stores  then  known  in  the  Union,  and  where  was  transacted  a  con- 
siderable business  for  that  day. 

Such  a  store  would  naturally  attract  the  botanist  as  well  as  the 
gardener,  and  it  was  the  frequent  lounge  of  both  classes,  who  ever 
found  in  the  proprietors  ready  listeners  as  well  as  conversers ;  in 
the  latter  particular  they  were  rather  remarkable,  and  here  you 
would  see  Nuttall,  Baldwin,  Darlington,  and  other  scientific  men, 
who  sought  information  or  were  ready  to  impart  it.  Mr.  M'Ma- 
hon  was  esteemed  by  these,  and  in  several  botanical  works  his 
knowledge  is  spoken  of  with  great  respect  and  consideration; 
Nuttall  .has  named  a  much  esteemed  species  after  him,  though  by 
omitting  the  M'  the  circumstance  has  been  little  noticed. 

After  a  long  life  of  laborious  and  painstaking  industry  Mr. 
M'Mahon  paid  his  last  debt,  and  left  the  concern  to  the  manage- 
ment of  his  wife,  who  conducted  it  under  difficulties  that  would 
have  appalled  most  women.  She,  however,  continued  to  be  suc- 
cessful, but  was  at  length  stricken  with  blindness;  in  this  con- 
dition, she  still  occupied  a  seat  behind  the  counter,  and  gave 
directions  to  assistants,  having  a  kind  word  and  a  piece  of  intelli- 
gence for  all  who  frequented  the  shop.  Her  foreman  supplied 
the  flowers,  seeds,  plants,  and  bulbs  for  a  considerable  length  of 
time,  but  at  last  she  too  disappeared,  the  store  was  closed,  and  the 
business  passed  into  other  and  more  enterprising  hands. 

The  writer  of  this  very  imperfect  memoir,  which  he  regrets 
there  are  not  materials  extant  to  make  more  complete,  has  been 
favored  with  the  following  letter  from  the  able  and  well-known 
botanist,  Dr.  William  Darlington,  which  will  fitly  close  this  record 
of  a  useful  man. 

WEST  CHESTER,  June  15,  1857. 

MY  DEAR  SIB, 

I  am  much  gratified  to  learn  that  a  new  edition  of  M'MA- 
HON'S  "  American  Gardener's  Calendar"  is  in  press.  That  work 
was  among  the  earliest  of  its  kind  in  our  country,  and  I  have 
always  regarded  it  as  among  the  best.  It  is  at  once  comprehen- 
sive and  complete;  and,  moreover,  remarkable  for  its  judicious, 
practical,  common  sense  views  of  the  subject. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  knowing  BERNARD  M'MAHON,  in  my 
youthful  days.  He  was,  I  believe,  one  of  those  Exiles  of  Erin 
who  sought  and  found  a  refuge  in  our  country,  near  the  close  of 


BRIEF  MEMOIR  OF  BERNARD  M'iMAHON.  Xlli 

the  last  century.  In  the  autumn,  I  think,  of  1799,  he  passed 
some  weeks  at  my  native  village  of  Dilworthtown,  in  Chester 
County,  in  order  to  avoid  the  ravages  of  yellow  fever,  in  Phila- 
delphia, where  he  resided ;  and  in  that  rural  retreat  I  first  knew 
him.  I  renewed  the  acquaintance  in  1802,  3,  and  4,  while  attend- 
ing the  medical  lectures  in  the  University  of  Pennsylvania,  by 
which  time  he  had  established  his  nurseries  of  useful  and  orna- 
mental plants :  and  I  ever  found  him  an  obliging,  intelligent,  and 
instructive  friend.  He  was  a  regularly  educated  gardener,  of 
much  experience,  and  great  enterprise.  He  gave  the  first  decisive 
impulse  to  scientific  horticulture  in  our  State ;  and  to  him  we  are 
mainly  indebted,  among  other  favors,  for  the  successful  culture 
and  dissemination  of  the  interesting  novelties  collected  by  LEWIS 
and  CLAEKE,  in  their  journey  to  the  Pacific.  When,  in  1818,  Mr. 
NUTTALL  published  his  Genera  of  North  American  Plants,  he 
named  a  beautiful  shrub  "  in  memory  of  the  late  Mr.  BERNAED 
M'MAHON,  whose  ardent  attachment  to  Botany,  and  successful  in- 
troduction of  useful  and  ornamental  Horticulture  into  the  United 
States,  lay  claim  to  public  esteem :"  and  although  the  genus  has 
been  reduced  by  later  botanists  to  a  section  of  JBerberis,  it  is  gene- 
rally known  by — and  I  trust  will  long  retain — the  popular  name 
of  MAHONIA. 

It  was  a  well- deserved  tribute  of  respect,  from  one  who  inti- 
mately knew,  and  could  justly  appreciate  the  merits  it  commemo- 
rated :  and  I  am  happy  in  the  opportunity,  even  at  this  late  day, 
to  add  my  own  humble  and  inadequate  testimonial  to  that  of  so 
accomplished  a  judge  of  botanical  worth,  as  THOMAS  NUTTALL. 
Very  truly  yours, 

WM.  DARLINGTON. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


THE  GREAT  CONSERVATORY  AT  KEW  GARDENS  (Frontispiece}. 

PAGE 

Fig.  1.  A  Forcing  Cucumber  House  .            ...          .            .            .20 

"  2.  Ten  Illustrations  of  Training           .....         34 

"  3,  4,  5,  6.  Trimming  and  Pinching  the  Pear  Tree        .             .             .39 

"  7.  Pruning  the  Raspberry        ......         45 

"  8,  9,  10.  Good  and  Bad  Pruning  of  Forest  Trees         ,            .            .59 

"  11.  Design  for  a  Villa  Garden              .....         86 

"  12.  Raising  Plants  from  Cuttings         .             .             .             .             .       113 

"  13,  14, 15,  16, 17,  18.  Fancy  Training  of  Fruit  Trees               .            .       145 

"  19.  A  Lean-to  Cold  Vinery      .            .            .            .            .            .173 

"  20.  A  Covering  for  Half-hardy  Plants              .            .            .            .196 

"  21.  The  Fastolf  Raspberry       .            .            .            .            .            .231 

"  22.  The  Red  Antwerp  .......       232 

"  23.  Strawberry  Tiles     .......       233 

"  24,  25,  26.  Grafting  Grape  Vines         .            .            .            .            .258 

"  27.  An  Old  Clipped  Yew          ......       280 

"  28.  Weigela  Amabilis               .            .            .            .            .            .289 

"  29.  Plan  of  Protecting  Trees  from  Cattle         .             .            .            .303 

"  30.  Rationale  of  Draining  Land           .            .             .            .            .316 

"  31.  Ornamental  Tower  for  Irrigation   .            .             .            t '           .345 

"  32.  A  useful  Trough  for  Irrigating  Gardens     ....       346 

"  33.  A  Hanging  Basket              ......       354 

"  34.  A  Well  Cultivated  Pot  Rose           .            .            .            .            .368 

"  35,  36,  37,  38.  Transplanters   ......       371 

"  39.  A  Cold  Pit              .......       380 

"  40.  The  Impostor's  Graft          .             .             .                         .            .402 

"  41, 42.  Cutting  round  Roots    .            .            .            .            .            .419 

"  43.  Roots  in  Pot  Culture          .            .            .            .            .            .420 

"  44.  Ditto      "            "                ......      420 

"  45. 'The  Corkscrew  Root  from  Pot  Culture      .            .            .            .421 

"  46.  Spur  of  the  Pear  Tree        .            .            .            .            .            .431 

"  47.  Shoot  of  a  Fig  Tree            .            .            ,."         .            .            .432 

"  48.  Branch  of  the  Filbert         .            .            .             .            .            .433 

"  49.  Shoot  of  a  Peach  Tree       ......      437 

"  50.  Shoot  of  a  Gooseberry  Bush           .             .            .            .            .438 

"  51.  Shoot  of  a  Currant                                                                                   439 


XVI  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Fig.  52.  Interior  of  an  Orchideous  House    .  .  .  .  .458 

"  53.  Two  Plans  for  Laying  out  a.  Garden  ....       475 

"  54.  Propagating  by  mere  Leaves          .....       477 

"  55,  56.  Grapery  and  Green-house  combined    ....       518 

"  57.  Pruning  and  Training  the  Vine      .  .  .  .       519 

"  58.  A  Plant  Cabinet     .......       533 

"  59.  Fruit  Room  .  .        a.T      Tf.  I     |  J.  .  .       559 

"  60.  Artificial  Mode  of  Heating  Vine  Borders  .  .  .  .598 


THE 


AMERICAN    GARDENER'S 
CALENDAR. 


JANUARY. 

THE    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 

PREPARATIONS   FOR   EARLY   CROPS. 

IN  such  parts  of  the  Union  where  the  ground  is  not  at  this  time 
bound  up  with  frost,  continue  to  dig  the  waste  quarters  of  your 
kitchen  garden,  first  giving  them  such  manure  as  they  require ;  lay- 
ing them  in  high  sloping  ridges,  to  sweeten  and  be  improved  by  the 
frost,  &c.,  more  especially  if  the  soil  be  of  a  stiff  nature;  by  which 
method  its  adhesion  is  destroyed,  the  pores  are  opened  for  the  admis- 
sion of  air,  frost,  rain  and  dews,  all  of  which,  abounding  with  nitrous 
salts,  contribute,  in  a  high  degree,  towards  its  melioration  and  fertil- 
ity ;  and  besides,  a  great  quantity  of  ground  thus  prepared,  can  be 
soon  levelled  in  the  spring  for  sowing  or  planting ;  which,  if  neglected 
would  require  much  time  to  dig  in  a  proper  manner,  and  that  at  a 
period  when  the  throng  of  business  requires  every  advantage  of  pre- 
vious preparation. 

When  the  ground  at  this  time  is  frozen  so  hard  as  not,  to  be  dug, 
which  is  generally  the  case  in  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States,  you 
may  carry  manure  into  the  different  quarters  and  spread  it,  repair 
fences,  rub  out  and  clean  your  seeds,  prepare  shreds,  nails  and  twigs, 
for  the  wall  and  espalier  trees,  which  are  to  be  pruned  in  this  and 
the  next  month ;  get  all  the  garden  tools  in  repair ;  and  procure  such 
as  are  wanting ;  provide  from  the  woods  a  sufficient  quantity  of  pea- 
rods,  and  poles  for  your  Lima  and  other  running  beans ;  dress  and 
point  them,  so  as  to  be  ready  for  use  when  wanted. 

Here  it  may  be  well  to  remark,  that  many  people  who  neglect  to 
provide  themselves  with  pea-rods  at  this  season,  when  it  can  be  so 
conveniently  done,  are  necessitated,  when  the  hurry  of  business  over- 
takes them  in  spring,  to  sow  their  peas  and  let  them  trail  on  the 
ground ;  in  which  situation  they  will  never  produce,  especially  the 
tall-growing  kinds,  one-third  as  many  as  if  they  were  properly  rodded. 
2 


18  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

The  various  kinds  of  Early  Peas  will  require  rods  from  four  to 
five  feet  high ;  the  taller  Marrowfat,  Champion  of  England,  and  other 
tall-growing  kinds,  will  require  them  to  be  from  six  to  seven  feet 
high,  exclusive  of  the  part  to  be  inserted  in  the  earth ;  they  ought  to 
be  formed  or  dressed  fan  fashion,  the  lower  ends  pointed,  for  the 
ease  of  pushing  them  into  the  earth,  and  laid  by,  either  under  some 
shed,  or  in  any  convenient  place,  till  wanted ;  one  set  of  rods  will, 
with  care,  last  for  three  years.  The  same  kind  of  rods  that  the  tall- 
growing  peas  require,  will  answer  for  the  generality  of  running  Kid- 
ney Beans ;  the  Lima  beans  requiring  strong  poles  from  eight  to  nine 
feet  high. 

If  in  this  and  the  next  month,  you  neglect  forwarding  everything 
that  can  possibly  be  done,  in  and  for  the  garden,  you  will  materially 
find  the  loss  of  such  inattention,  when  the  hurry  and  pressure  of 
spring  business  overtake  you.  Every  active  and  well  inclined  gar- 
dener will  find  abundant  employment  in  the  various  departments  of 
the  garden  at  this  season,  and  need  not  be  idle,  if  disposed  to  be  in- 
dustrious, or  to  serve  either  himself  or  his  employer. 

FRAMING. 

Many  will  think  that  the  instructions  hereafter  given  for  the  raising 
of  early  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  in  frames,  are  too  diffuse  ;  especially 
in  a  country  which  abounds  in  these  kinds  of  fruit,  produced  in  such 
quantities,  in  summer  and  autumn,  without  artificial  heat,  or  very 
much  trouble. 

The  remark  may  be  just,  but  the  principal  motive  for  giving  these 
lengthy  instructions  is,  to  exercise  the  young  gardener  in  the  art  of 
managing  Garden  Frames  in  general ;  an  art  absolutely  essential  to 
every  good  Gardener,  and  which  cannot  be  better  exemplified  than 
in  the  raising  of  early  Cucumbers  and  Melons.  And  besides,  these 
fruits  coming  into  use  at  an  early  season,  will  be  much  valued  and 
esteemed. 

As  several  other  kinds  of  kitchen  garden  vegetables  are  desirable 
at  an  early  season,  such  as  cresses,  rape,  lettuce,  mustard,  radishes, 
&c.,  to  cut  while  young;  asparagus,  radishes,  peas,  kidney  beans,  &c., 
to  be  forwarded  in  early  perfection  ;  cauliflower  and  cabbage  plants, 
to  succeed  those  sown  in  September,  and  to  produce  a  principal  crop 
for  early  summer  use ;  you  should  now  provide  the  necessary  sup- 
plies of  hot  stable  dung,  rich  earth,  and  other  requisites  proper  for 
their  cultivation  in  hot-beds,  as  explained  for  each,  under  its  respect- 
ive head.* 


HOT-BED   FRAMES   AND   LIGHTS. 

If  not  already  provided  with  hot-bed  frames  and  lights,  you  may 
get  them  made  agreeably  to  the  following  instructions.  Large  frames 

*  The  whole  of  these  requirements  may  be  more  effectually  secured  by 
close  and  compact  low  houses,  heated  by  hot-water  pipes.  Though  more 
expensive  at  first,  there  is  a  final  saving. 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  19 

ought  to  be  made  of  inch  and  half,  or  rather  two  inch  plank,  of  the 
best  yellow  pine,  nine  feet  two  inches  long,  four  feet  ten  inches  wide, 
as  high  again  in  the  back  as  in  the  front,  to  give  the  top  a  due  slope 
to  the  sun  and  a  proper  declivity  to  carry  off  the  wet  when  covered 
with  glass  lights,  to  move  off  and  on  occasionally;  every  joint  ought 
to  be  tongued,  the  better  to  prevent  the  admission  of  cold  air  into, 
or  emission  of  warm  air  out  of  the  bed,  but  in  such  manner  as  the 
Gardener  may  think  proper.  The  back  and  front  are  to  be  nailed  to 
corner  posts,  so  as  to  admit  the  ends  to  fit  in  neatly,  which  ends  are 
to  be  made  fast  to  the  posts  by  iron  bolts  keyed  in  the  inside,  for  the 
greater  facility  of  taking  the  frame  asunder  when  necessary ;  each 
end  must  be  made  one  inch  and  a  half  higher  than  the  back  and 
front,  so  as  that  one-half  its  thickness  may  be  grooved  out  on  the 
inside,  for  the  sash  to  rest  and  slide  on,  and  the  other  half  left  for 
its  support  on  the  outside ;  when  finished  give  it  two  or  three  good 
coats  of  paint  before  you  use  it,  and  with  a  little  care  and  annual 
painting,  it  may  last  you  twenty  years. 

These  frames  will  take  three  lights  of  three  feet  wide  each,  each 
light  containing  five  rows^of  glass  panes,  six  inches  by  four,  over- 
lapping one  another  about*  half  an  inch,  which  of  all  other  sizes  is 
the  most  preferable,  on  account  of  their  cheapness  in  the  first  place, 
the  closeness  of  their  lap,  their  general  strength  and  trifling  expense 
of  repairs ;  however,  each  person  will  suit  his  own  convenience  as  to 
the  dimensions  of  glass.  Where  the  sashes  when  laid  on  the  frame 
meet,  a  piece  of  pine  about  three  and  a  half  inches  broad  and  near 
two  thick,  should  run  from  back  to  front,  mortised  into  each,  for 
their  support,  and  for  them  to  slide  on ;  in  the  centre  of  which,  as 
well  as  in  the  ends  of  the  frame,  it  will  be  well  to  make  a  groove 
five-eighths  of  an  inch  wide  and  near  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep, 
rounded  at  bottom  to  receive  and  carry  off  any  wet  which  may  work 
down  between  the  sashes. 

But  with  respect  to  particular  dimensions  of  frames,  they  are  dif- 
ferent, according  to  the  plants  they  are  intended  to  protect,  but  gene- 
rally from  nine  to  twelve  feet  long,  from  four  feet  eight  inches  to  five 
feet  wide,  from  eighteen  inches  to  three  feet  six  inches  in  the  back, 
and  from  nine  to  eighteen  inches  in  front,  being  for  the  most  part 
twice  as  high  in  the  back  as  in  front,  if  not  more. 

The  common  kitchen  garden  frames  may  be  of  three  different 
sizes,  that  is,  for  one,  two,  and  three  lights ;  the  latter  of  which,  how- 
ever, are  the  most  material,  and  which  are  employed  for  general  use : 
but  it  is  necessary  also  to  have  one  or  two-light  frames,  the  former 
as  seedling  frames,  and  the  latter  as  succession  or  nursery  frames,  to 
forward  the  young  plants  to  a  due  size  for  the  three-light  frames,  in 
which  they  are  to  fruit. 

EARLY   CUCUMBERS   AND   MELONS. 

As  it  is  generally  the  ambition  of  most  gardeners  to  excel  each 
other  in  the  production  of  early  cucumbers,  &c.,  all  necessary  prepa- 
ration should  be  made  this  month  for  that  purpose,  by  preparing 
dung  for  hot-beds,  in  which  to  raise  the  plants ;  for  they,  being  of  a 


20 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


[JAN. 


tender  quality,  require  the  aid  of  artificial  heat  under  shelter  of 
frames  and  glasses,  until  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  May,  especially 
in  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States. 

But  by  the  aid  of  hot-beds,  defended  with  frames  and  glasses,  we 
obtain  early  cucumbers,  in  young  green  fruit,  fit  to  cut  or  gather  in 
February,  March,  and  April,  &c.,  and  ripe  melons  in  May  and  June. 
The  proper  sorts  of  cucumbers  for  the  early  crops  are  the  early  Ken- 
yon's  free  bearer,  and  Syon  House,  and  Walker's  Improved ;  of  which 
the  first  sort  comes  earliest ;  but  the  latter  is  considerably  the  finest 
fruit,  and  greatly  preferable  for  general  culture. 

The  following  cut  represents  a  house  built  for  forcing  the  cucum- 
ber, which  may  be  done  in  the  coldest  weather  with  perfect  success. 

The  house  is  heated 

Fig.  1.  by  a  flue  A  B,  or  still 

better  by  hot- water  pipes 
and  a  boiler ;  such  a 
house  might  be  ten  feet 
long  and  ten  wide,  as 
desired,  and  in  it  bush- 
beans,  strawberries,  &c., 
could  be  forced,  and 
young  flowering  plants 
will  here  find  a  conge- 
nial atmosphere.  There 
is  no  necessity  of  going 
to  the  expense  of  such 
a  house  where  there  are 
other  buildings  in  which 

tender  exotics  are  grown  and  a  night  temperature  of  60°  is  kept,  as 
a  small  space  may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  and  four  or  five  plants 
trained  up  near  the  glass,  will  give  a  supply  for  a  small  family  the 
whole  winter. 

If  early  melons  are  also  required,  there  are  several  varieties  of  the 
fruit :  the  Cantaleupe  is  one  of  the  best  for  its  handsome  growth, 
good  size,  and  superior  flavor ;  and  is  in  much  estimation. 

The  true  Cantaleupe,  or  Armenian  warted  Melon,  is  very  scarce  in 
the  United  States ;  its  fruit  is  large,  roundish,  and  deeply  ribbed,  a 
little  compressed  at  both  ends,  the  surface  full  of  warted  protuber- 
ances, like  some  species  of  squash,  the  flesh  reddish,  firm,  and  of  a 
most  delicious  rich  flavor ;  of  which  there  are  several  varieties,  differ- 
ing principally  in  color,  and  commonly  called  black  rock,  golden 
rock,  &c. 

This  variety  of  melon  derives  the  term  Cantaleupe  from  a  place  of 
that  name  near  Rome,  where  it  was  first  cultivated  in  Europe — 
brought  thence  from  Armenia,  a  country  in  Asia,  in  which  is  situated 
the  famous  Mount  Ararat. 

But  it  may  also  be  proper  to  raise  some  of  the  others  for  variety ; 
the  Eomana  is  a  great  bearer,  comes  early,  but  the  fruit  much  smaller, 
though  well  flavored ;  the  Polignac,  Nutmeg,  the  best  for  general 
crop,  and  Minorca,  are  also  fine  melons;  but  it  may  also  be  eligible 
to  raise  two,  three,  or  more  of  the  best  approved  different  sorts. 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  21 

Observe,  that  in  procuring  these  seeds  for  immediate  sowing,  both 
of  cucumbers  and  melons,  it  is  advisable  to  have  those  of  two,  three, 
or  four  year  old,  if  possible,  as  the  plants  will  generally  show  fruit 
sooner,  as  well  as  prove  more  fruitful  than  those  of  new  seeds,  which 
are  apt  to  run  vigorously  to  vine,  often  advancing  in  considerable 
length  before  they  show  a  single  fruit ;  but  when  seeds  of  this  age 
cannot  be  procured,  new  seeds  may  be  improved  by  carrying  them 
a  few  weeks  previous  to  sowing  in  your  waistcoat  or  breeches  pocket. 

In  order  to  raise  early  cucumbers  and  melons,  you  must  provide  a 
quantity  of  fresh  hot  stable  dung,  wherewith  to  make  a  small  hot- 
bed for  a  seed  bed,  in  which  to  raise  the  plants  to  a  proper  growth 
for  transplanting  into  larger  hot-beds  next  month  to  remain  to  fruit ; 
for  this  purpose  a  small  bed  for  a  one  or  two-light  frame  may  be  suf- 
ficient, in  which  case  two  cart  loads  of  hot  dung  will  be  enough  for 
making  a  bed  of  proper  dimensions  for  a  one-light  box,  and  so  in 
proportion  for  larger. 

Agreeably  to  these  intimations,  provide  the  requisite  supply  of 
good  horse-stable  dung  from  the  dung  hills  in  stable  yards,  &c.,  con- 
sisting of  that  formed  of  the  moist  stable  litter  and  dunging  of  the 
horses  together,  choosing  that  which  is  moderately  fresh,  moist,  and 
full  of  heat — always  preferring  that  which  is  of  some  lively,  warm, 
steamy  quality  •  and  of  which  take  the  long  and  short  altogether  as  it 
occurs,  in  proper  quantity  as  above.  And  being  thus  procured,  pro- 
ceed to  make  the  hot-bed,  or  previously  to  forming  it  into  a  bed,  if  the 
dung  is  rank,  it  would  be  proper  to  prepare  it  a  little  to  an  improved 
state,  more  successful  for  that  purpose,  by  forking  the  whole  up  into 
a  heap,  mixing  it  well  together,  and  let  it  thus  remain  eight  or  ten 
days  to  ferment  equally,  and  for  the  rank  steam  and  fierce  heat  to 
transpire  or  evaporate  in  some  effectual  degree;  and* by  which  time  it 
will  have  acquired  a  proper  temperament  for  making  into  a  hot-bed, 
by  which  treatment  the  heat  will  be  steady  and  lasting,  and  not  so 
liable  to  become  violent  or  burning,  as  when  the  dung  is  not  previ- 
ously prepared. 

Choose  a  place  on  which  to  make  your  hot-bed,  in  a  sheltered  dry 
part  of  the  framing  ground,*  &c.,  open  to  the  morning  and  south 
sun ;  and  it  may  be  made  either  wholly  on  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
or  in  a  shallow  trench,  of  from  six  to  twelve  inches  deep,  and  four 
or  five  feet  wide,  according  to  the  frame ;  but  if  made  entirely  on 
the  surface,  which  is  generally  the  most  eligible  method  at  this  early 
season,  it  affords  the  opportunity  of  lining  the  sides  of  the  bed  with 
fresh  hot  dung,  quite  down  to  the  bottom,  to  augment  the  heat  when 
it  declines,  and  also  prevents  wet  from  settling  about  the  bottom  of 
the  bed,  as  often  happens  when  made  in  a  trench,  which  chills  the 
dung,  and  causes  the  heat  soon  to  decay. 

Then,  according  to  the  size  of  the  frame,  mark  out  the  dimensions 
of  the  bed,  either  on  the  ground,  or  with  four  stakes,  making  an 

*  Framing  Ground  is  a  part  of  the  Kitchen  Garden  well  defended  from 
cutting  winds,  and  well  exposed  to  the  sun  ;  particularly  intended  for 
framing  of  all  kinds,  and  generally  inclosed  with  live  or  reed  hedges,  or 
board  fences,  the  former  being  the  most  preferable. 


22  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

allowance  for  it  to  be  about  four  or  five  inches  wider  than  the  frame 
each  way ;  this  done,  begin  to  make  the  bed  accordingly,  observing 
to  shake  and  mix  the  dung  well,  as  you  lay  it  on  the  bed,  and  beat 
it  down  with  the  back  of  the  fork  as  you  go  on ;  but  I  would  not 
advise  treading  it,  for  a  bed  which  is  trodden  hard  will  not  work  so 
kindly,  and  be  more  liable  to  burn  that  which  is  suffered  to  settle 
gradually  of  itself:  in  this  manner  proceed  till  the  bed  has  arrived 
at  the  height  of  four  feet,  which  will  not  be  too  much,  making  an 
allowance  for  its  settling  six  or  eight  inches  or  more,  in  a  week  or 
fortnight's  time;  and  as  soon  as  finished,  let  the  frame  and  glass  be 
put  on;  keep  them  close  till  the  heart  comes  up,  then  raise  the  glass 
behind  that  the  steam  may  pass  away. 

The  next  thing  to  be  observed  is  about  earthing  the  bed,  in  which 
to  sow  the  seed  ;  and  for  which  occasion  should  have  a  proper  sup- 
ply of  rich,  light,  dry  earth,  or  compost,  ready  at  this  season  under 
some  airy  dry  shed  or  hovel,  covered  at  top  to  keep  out  rain,  that 
the  earth  may  be  properly  dry;  for  if  too  moist  or  wet  at  this  time, 
it  would  prove  greatly  detrimental  both  to  the  growth  of  the  seed 
and  young  plants,  as  well  as  be  very  apt  to  cake  and  burn  at  bottom 
next  the  dung  by  the  strong  heat  of  the  bed ;  therefore,  observing 
that  for  early  hot-beds  of  cucumbers  and  melons  should  generally 
deposit  a  necessary  quantity  of  proper  earth,  under  some  cover  as 
above,  either  the  beginning  of  winter,  or  at  least  a  fortnight  or  three 
or  four  weeks  previous  to  making  the  hot-bed,  in  order  to  have  it  in 
the  dry,  mellow  state  above  mentioned,  ready  for  immediate  use 
when  wanted. 

Three  or  four  days  after  the  bed  is  made,  prepare  to  earth  it ;  pre- 
viously observing,  if  it  has  settled  unequally,  to  take  off  the  frame 
and  glasses,  and  level  any  inequalities ;  make  the  surface  smooth, 
put  on  the  frame  again,  and  then  lay  therein  as  much  of  the  above- 
mentioned  earth  as  will  coyer  the  whole  top  surface  of  the  bed  about 
three  or  four  inches  thick;  then  fill  two,  three,  or  more  middling 
smallish  garden-pots  with  more  of  the  aforesaid  rich  earth,  place 
them  within  the  frame  on  the  hot-bed,  put  on  the  glass  or  glasses, 
and  continue  them  till  the  earth  in  the  pots  is  warm,  and  when  that 
is  effected  sow  the  seeds  in  the  pots,  both  of  cucumbers  and  melons, 
each  separately,  more  or  less  in  each  pot,  according  to  the  quantity 
of  plants  required,  but  generally  considerably  more  of  cucumbers 
than  of  melons  at  this  season,  covering  in  the  earth  near  half  an 
inch  deep  with  the  same  earth. 

This  done,  place  the  pots  towards  the  middle  of  the  bed,  plunging 
the  bottom  part  a  little  into  the  earth,  drawing  some  of  the  same  up 
round  each  pot  at  the  same  time ;  or  in  two  or  three  days  after,  may 
sow  a  few  seeds  in  the  earth  of  the  bed,  to  have  a  chance  both  ways ; 
but  by  sowing  in  pots,  if  the  beds  should  heat  too  violently,  as  is 
sometimes  unavoidably  the  case,  the  pots  can  be  readily  drawn  up 
more  or  less  out  of  danger  of  (burning  the  earth,  &c.,  therein;  and 
thus  the  sowing  in  pots  in  a  new  made  hot-bed  in  full  heat  may 
prove  of  greater  advantage  than  sowing  in  the  earth  of  the  bed  with 
regard  to  more  probable  safety  from  burning. 

After  sowing  the  seeds,  put  on  the  lights  or  glasses  close ;  but 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  23 

when  the  steam  from  the  heat  of  the  bed  rises  copiously,  give  it 
vent  by  raising  one  corner  of  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  half  aa 
inch  or  an  inch,  which  is  also  necessary  in  order  to  prevent  any 
burning  tendency  from  the  great  heat  of  the  bed  in  its  early  state ; 
60°  by  night,  and  80°  with  sunshine,  will  be  a  proper  temperature. 

Continue  now  to  cover  the  glasses  of  the  hot-bed  every  evening, 
about  an  hour  before  sun-setting,  if  mild  weather,  but  earlier  in  pro- 
portion to  its  severity,  with  garden  mats ;  and  uncover  them  every 
morning,  not  sooner  than  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  at  this  sea- 
son; and  observe,  in  covering  up  in  the  evening,  that  as  the  bed 
will  at  first  have  a  strong  heat  and  steam  within  the  frame,  it  may 
be  advisable  to  cover  only  a  single  mat  thick  for  the  first  three  or 
four  nights,  as  a  thicker  covering  in  the  early  state  of  the  bed  might 
be  apt  to  occasion  a  too  violent  internal  heat  and  steam  of  a  burning 
nature;  but  as  the  great  heat  decreases,  augment  the  covering, 
being  careful  not  to  suffer  the  ends  of  the  mats  to  hang  down  con- 
siderably below  the  frame,  over  the  sides  of  the  bed,  except  in  severe 
weather,  which  would  draw  up  a  hurtful  strong  steam  from  the  dung, 
as  well  as  confine  the  steam  and  heat  too  much,  and  keep  the  bed 
too  stiflingly  close  from  the  external  air,  which  would  weaken  the 
germination  or  sprouting  of  the  seed,  and  the  plants  would  come  up 
weak  and  of  a  sickly  yellowish  hue ;  observe,  therefore,  these  and  the 
following  precautions,  in  order  both  to  prevent  too  great  a  heat  in 
the  bed,  and  that  the  plants  may  rise  with  a  proper  degree  of  strength 
and  healthful  growth. 

Likewise  observe,  on  the  above  considerations,  that  in  covering  up, 
or  applying  the  night  covering  of  mats  over  the  glasses,  during  the 
time  the  strong  heat  and  steam  continue  in  the  bed,  it  would  be  pro- 
per when  the  mats  are  put  on  in  the  afternoon  to  raise  the  upper  ends 
of  the  glass  or  glasses,  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  or  a  little  more  or  less, 
occasionally,  both  to  give  vent  to  the  internal  rank  steam,  and  to 
admit  a  moderate  degree  of  fresh  air ;  and  in  which  may  fasten  one 
of  the  covering  mats  to  hang  down  a  little  over  the  part  where  the 
lights  are  occasionally  opened  to  prevent  the  cutting  external  air 
from  rushing  immediately  into  the  frame,  especially  after  the  plants 
are  advancing ;  but  this,  necessary  as  it  is,  cannot  be  done  with  safety 
in  very  severe  weather. 

Great  care  is  requisite  that  the  earth  in  the  pots  have  not  too  much 
heat,  for  the  bed  is  yet  very  hot,  and  therefore  let  the  degree  of  in- 
ternal heat  in  the  bed  be  daily  examined;  and,  if  anything  of  burning 
should  appear,  you  can  conveniently  raise  the  pots  farther  from  the 
dung,  from  which  the  danger  proceeds,  without  disturbing  the  seeds 
or  plants,  and  thereby  prevent  all  injury  from  too  much  heat,  pro- 
vided you  examine  the  bed  every  day,  and  give  proper  vent  to  the 
rank  steam  within  the  frame,  while  of  a  burning  quality. 

In  two,  three,  or  four  days  after  the  seed  is  sown,  you  may  expect 
the  plants  to  appear ;  when  it  will  be  proper  to  admit  fresh  air  to 
them,  by  raising  the  upper  end  of  the  glass  a  little  every  day :  and 
if  the  earth  in  the  pots  appears  dry,  refresh  it  moderately  with  a 
little  water  that  has  stood  in  the  bed  all  night,  just  to  take  off  the 
cold  chill ;  applying  it  about  eleven  or  twelve  o'clock  of  the  day,  and 


24  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

principally  only  to  the  earth,  about  the  roots,  not  over  the  tops  of  the 
plants ;  which  done,  shut  down  the  glasses  close  for  about  half  an 
hour  or  an  hour,  then  opened  again  a  little,  and  shut  close  towards 
the  evening ;  when  continue  to  cover  the  glass  every  night  with  garden 
mats.  And  at  this  time  also,  if  the  heat  of  the  bed  is  strong  and  the 
weather  not  very  severe,  raise  the  glass  a  little  behind  with  a  prop, 
when  you  cover  up  in  the  evening,  to  give  vent  to  the  steam ;  and 
nail  a  mat  to  hang  down  over  the  ends  of  the  glass  that  is  raised,  to 
break  off  the  sharp  edge  of  the  external  cold  night  air  from  the  plants; 
but  when  the  heat  is  more  moderate,  the  glasses  may  be  shut  close 
every  night,  observing  to  uncover  in  proper  time  every  morning,  to 
admit  the  essential  benefit  of  day-light,  sun,  and  air,  to  the  plants ; 
being  careful  to  continue  the  admission  of  fresh  air  at  all  proper  op- 
portunities in  the  day-time,  to  promote  strength  in  the  plants,  other- 
wise they  would  run  weak,  and  very  long  and  feeble-shanked ;  raising 
the  glass  as  before  observed,  and  if  windy  or  very  sharp  air,  to  hang 
a  mat  before  the  place  as  above. 

On  the  day  that  the  plants  appear,  sow  a  little  more  seed  in  the 
same  bed,  in  the  manner  before  mentioned ;  for  these  plants  being 
liable  to  suffer  by  different  causes  at  this  season,  it  is  proper,  there- 
fore, to  sow  a  little  seed  at  three  or  four  different  times  in  the  same 
bed,  at  short  intervals ;  for,  if  one  sowing  should  miscarry,  another 
may  succeed. 

When  the  plants,  however,  both  of  the  first  and  succeeding  sow- 
ings, are  two,  three,  or  four  days  old,  they  should  be  planted  in 
small  pots,  which  pots  must  be  placed  also  in  the  hot-bed,  in  the 
manner  following : — 

Observe  to  fill  the  pots,  the  day  before  you  intend  to  remove  the 
plants,  with  some  rich,  dry  earth,  and  set  them  within  the  frame  till 
the  next  day,  when  the  earth  in  the  pots  will  be  warm  ;  then  proceed 
to  planting,  take  the  plants  carefully  up  in  the  seed-pots,  raising 
them  with  your  finger,  &c.,  with  all  the  roots  as  entire  as  possible, 
and  with  as  much  of  the  earth  as  will  readily  adhere  about  the  fibres ; 
and  thus,  the  pots  of  earth  being  ready,  and  forming  the  earth  thereof 
a  little  concavely  hollow  a  small  depth,  place  the  plants  in  the  hol- 
lowed part  of  the  earth  slopingly,  with  their  roots  towards  the  centre, 
and  earth  over  their  roots  and  stems  near  an  inch  thick ;  observing 
to  plant  three  plants  in  each  pot ;  and  if  the  earth  is  quite  dry,  give 
a  very  little  water  just  to  the  roots  of  the  plants  only;  and  directly 
plunge  the  pots  into  the  earth  on  the  bed,  close  to  another,  filling  up 
all  the  spaces  between  with  earth ;  and  let  every  part  of  the  bed 
within  the  frame  be  covered  with  as  much  earth  as  will  prevent  the 
rising  of  the  rank  steam  immediately  from  the  dung,  which  would 
destroy  the  plants  by  its  pungency. 

Be  careful  to  examine  the  bed  every  day,  to  see  that  the  roots  of 
the  plants  do  not  receive  too  much  heat ;  if  anything  like  that  ap- 
pears, draw  up  the  pots  a  little,  or  as  far  as  you  see  necessary  for  the 
preservation  of  the  plants,  re-plunging  them  again  to  their  rims  when 
the  danger  is  over. 

Two  or  three  days  after  planting,  if  the  bed  is  in  good  condition, 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  25 

the  plants  will  have  taken  root  ;  though  that  is  effected  sometimes  in 
twenty-four  hours. 

When  the  plants  are  fairly  rooted,  if  the  earth  appears  dry,  give 
them  a  little  water  in  the  warmest  time  of  the  day;  and  if  the  sun 
shines  it  will  prove  more  beneficial :  let  the  watering  be  occasionally 
repeated  very  moderately,  according  as  the  earth  in  the  pots  becomes 
dry,  and  appears  in  want  of  a  little  moisture :  and  for  this  purpose 
always  have  some  soft  water  set  within  the  frame  a  few  hours,  to 
be  ready  to  water  the  plants  as  you  shall  see  occasion ;  but  always 
with  very  great  cautious  moderation  at  this  season. 

If  there  is  now  a  brisk  growing  heat  in  the  bed,  you  should,  in 
order  to  preserve  it  as  long  as  possible,  apply  some  outward  protec- 
tion of  long  stable-litter,  straw,  waste  hay,  dried  fern,  or  leaves  of 
trees,  round  the  sides  of  the  bed,  raising  it  by  degrees  round  the  out- 
sides  of  the  frame. 

This  will  defend  the  beds  from  cold  piercing  wind,  heavy  or  driving 
rains  and  snow,  if  either  should  happen;  for  these,  if  suffered  to 
come  at  the  bed,  would  chill  it,  and  cause  a  sudden  decay  of  the 
heat,  whereby  the  plants  would  certainly  receive  a  great  check. 

If  a  lively  heat  be  kept  up,  you  may  admit  air  to  the  plants  every 
day,  to  strengthen  their  growth,  by  tilting  the  glasses  in  proportion 
to  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  temperature  of  the  external  air ;  generally 
observing,  in  this  case,  that  when  there  happens  a  sharp  cold  air,  or 
cutting  wind,  it  would  still  be  advisable  to  nail  a  garden-mat  to  the 
upper  end  of  the  glasses,  to  hang  down  over  the  place  where  the  air 
is  admitted,  supported  a  little  hollow  or  detached  underneath,  two  or 
three  inches  from  the  frame ;  and  it  will  thus  break  off  and  prevent 
the  cutting  external  air  from  entering  immediately  into  the  frame 
upon  the  plants,  and  at  the  same  time  admit  a  proper  degree  of  mild 
fresh  air  to  a  greater  advantage  :  however,  in  calm,  moderate  weather, 
this  precaution  is  not  materially  necessary. 

About  a  fortnight,  or  a  little  more  or  less  time  after  the  bed  is 
made,  you  will  carefully  examine  the  heat  thereof,  to  see  if  it  wants 
augmentation;  and  when  the  heat  begins  to  decline  considerably, 
remove  the  temporary  protection  of  straw,  hay,  fern,  or  leaves  from 
the  front  and  back  of  the  bed,  if  any  was  laid  round  it  as  before 
added;  then  apply  a  lining  of  fresh  hot  horse-dung,  close  to  one  or 
both  sides  as  it  shall  seem  necessary,  by  the  heat  being  less  or  more 
decreased;  for  a  constant  regular  degree  of  internal  heat  must  be 
supported  to  resist  the  external  cold,  and  continue  the  plants  in  a 
proper  state  of  advancing  growth;  but  if  the  heat  is  not  greatly  de- 
clined, it  would  be  advisable  to  line  only  one  side  first,  applying  it 
to  the  back  of  the  bed ;  and  in  a  week  or  fortnight  after,  line  the 
front,  &c.,  forming  the  lining  about  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  wide ; 
but  raise  it  very  little  higher  than  the  dung  of  the  bed,  lest  it  throw 
in  too  much  heat  immediately  to  the  earth  and  roots  of  the  plants ; 
covering  the  top  with  earth  two  inches  thick  to  preserve  the  heat, 
and  prevent  the  rank  steam  of  the  new  dung  from  coming  up  and 
entering  into  the  frame,  where  it  would  prove  destructive  to  the 
plants ;  the  lining  will  soon  greatly  revive  the  declining  heat  of  the 
bed,  and  continue  it  in  good  condition  a  fortnight  longer. 


26  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

Ten  or  twelve  days  after  lining  one  side,  proceed  as  before,  removing 
the  protection  of  straw-litter,  &c.,  if  any,  from  the  other  side,  and 
applying  a  lining  of  hot  dung  as  above  afterwards  to  both  ends ; — 
and  these  will  again  revive  and  augment  the  heat  for  another  fort- 
night or  more. 

After  performing  the  lining,  if  very  cold,  wet,  or  snowy  weather 
prevail,  it  may  be  proper  to  lay  a  quantity  of  dry  long  litter  all 
around  the  general  lining,  which  will  protect  the  whole  from  driving 
cold  rains  and  snow,  and  preserve  the  heat  of  the  bed  in  a  fine  grow- 
ing temperature. 

By  applying  these  linings  of  hot  dung  in  due  time,  and  renewing 
them  as  there  shall  be  occasion,  you  may  preserve  the  bed  in  a  pro- 
per temperature  of  heat  of  sufficient  duration  to  continue  the  plants 
in  a  free  growing  state  in  the  same  bed  until  of  due  size  for  ridging 
out  into  the  larger  hot-beds,  finally  to  remain  to  produce  their  heat. 

Observe,  however,  that  where  there  is  plenty  of  hot  dung,  and 
every  proper  convenience,  you  may,  in  order  to  forward  the  plants 
as  much  as  possible,  prepare  a  second  hot-bed,  by  way  of  nursery, 
about  a  fortnight  after  making  the  seed-bed,  in  order  to  receive  the 
plants  therefrom  in  their  pots,  when  the  heat  begins  to  decline, 
plunging  the  pots  in  the  earth  as  above  directed ;  continuing  to  sup- 
port the  heat  of  this  bed,  as  already  explained,  and  in  which  the 
plants  may  be  nursed  and  forwarded  till  they  acquire  a  proper  size 
for  transplanting  finally  into  the  fruiting  hot-beds.  (See  next  month.) 

When  the  plants  have  advanced  in  growth  with  their  two  first 
rough  leaves,  about  two  or  three  inches  broad,  and  have  pushed  their 
two  first  running  buds  in  the  centre,  or  are  a  little  advanced  in  the 
formation  of  one  or  two  short  runners,  they  are  then  of  a  proper  size 
for  ridging  out  into  the  large  hot-beds,  where  they  are  finally  to  re- 
main, which  perform  in  proper  time,  according  to  the  directions 
given  in  February  under  the  article  Cucumbers. 

But  in  order  to  strengthen  the  plants  in  a  more  firm  stocky 
growth,  and  to  promote  a  production  of  fruitful  runners,  each  plant 
must  be  stopped  (as  the  gardeners  term  it),  or  topped  at  the  first  or 
second  joint,  i.  e.  the  top  of  the  first  advancing  runner,  when  formed 
in  the  centre  like  a  small  bud,  should  be  pinched  or  cut  off  close  to 
the  joint,  as  directed  in  February  (which  see),  where  the  method  of 
performing  it  is  more  fully  explained. 

CARE  OP  THE  VARIOUS  SORTS  OF  LETTUCES. 

If  you  have  lettuce  plants  in  frames,  or  under  hoop-arches  de- 
fended with  mats,  let  them  enjoy  the  open  air  at  all  opportunities, 
by  taking  the  glasses,  or  other  shelters,  entirely  off,  when  the  wea- 
ther is  mild  and  dry ;  but  if  the  plants  are  frozen,  let  them,  while 
in  that  state,  be  carefully  protected  from  the  hot  sun,  which  would 
materially  injure  them. 

In  very  wet  weather,  and  when  sharp  cutting  winds  prevail,  keep 
the  glasses  over  them,  observing,  however,  to  raise  the  lights  or  glasses 
behind  two  or  three  inches,  in  mild  days,  to  admit  air  to  the  plants ; 
for,  if  they  are  kept  too  close,  they  will  be  drawn  up  weak,  and 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  27 

attain  to  but  little  perfection ;  but  let  the  glasses  be  close  shut  every 
night.  In  severe  frosty  weather  keep  them  close  night  and  day, 
and  cover  the  glasses  with  mats,  or  straw,  &c.,  both  of  nights  and 
occasionally  in  the  day-time,  if  the  frost  is  rigorous;  also  let  the 
same  care  be  observed  to  those  under  hoop-arches;  but  let  them  have 
the  full  air  in  mild  open  weather. 

Or  where  any  lettuces  are  planted  in  a  south  border,  close  to  a 
wall  or  board  fence,  &c.,  it  would  be  advisable,  in  hard  frost,  to  cover 
them  as  above. 

In  the  above  lettuces,  in  general,  pick  off  all  decayed  leaves  when 
any  appear,  keep  them  always  cleared  from  weeds,  and  destroy  slugs, 
which  often  greatly  annoy  them ;  and  in  mild  weather  stir  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth  between,  which  will  much  enliven  the  plants. 

SOWING  LETTUCES. 

When  lettuces  have  not  been  sown  in  autumn  for  early  spring  use, 
you  may  now  sow  any  of  the  cos*  or  cabbage  kinds,  on  a  slight  hot- 
bed under  glasses,  to  be  planted  out  in  spring ;  the  young  plants 
may  be  greatly  forwarded,  if  pricked  into  another  fresh  hot-bed 
next  month;  and  in  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  beginning  of  April, 
they  will  be  strong,  and  fit  for  transplanting  into  warm  borders ;  a 
sufficiency  may  be  retained  in  the  frame  to  arrive  at  early  perfection. 

FORCING  EARLY   ASPARAGUS. 

Hot-beds  for  forcing  asparagus  may  be  made  with  success  any  time 
this  month,  which  will  furnish  young  asparagus  for  the  table  in  Feb- 
ruary and  March.  It  may  also  be  forced  under  the  stage  of  a  warm 
green-house. 

Observing,  for  this  occasion,  you  must  be  furnished  with  plants 
that  have  been  raised  in  the  natural  ground  till  of  three  or  four  years' 
growth,  of  proper  size  and  strength  to  produce  eligible  crops  of  good 
sized  asparagus  shoots,  when  planted  in  a  hot-bed ;  and  must  be  pro- 
vided with  plenty  of  good  hot  dung,  wherewith  to  make  substantial 
hot-beds,  from  three  to  four  feet  high,  and  with  proper  large  frames 
and  glasses  to  place  on  the  beds,  and  garden  mats  for  covering  of 
nights,  &c. 

But  for  general  particulars  of  the  plants,  and  the  necessary  quan- 
tity, as  well  as  of  the  hot-bed  and  other  requisites — see  the  article 
Forcing  Asparagus  in  February,  which  is  equally  applicable  on  the 
present  occasion. 

MINT,   TANSEY,  &C. 

Make  a  small  hot-bed  for  some  mint,  or  plant  the  roots  close  to- 
gether in  boxes  and  place  in  the  hot-house,  when  it  is  required  at  an 

*  The  cos  lettuces,  however,  are  of  little  use  in  the  North ;  they  are 
too  tender  to  bear  our  severe  winters,  and  soon  run  to  seed  in  the  sum- 
mer ;  consequently  the  cabbage  kinds  are  best  for  all  purposes. 


28  %  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

early  season,  in  young  green  shoots,  for  salads  and  mint-sauce,  &c. 
A  bed  for  a  small  or  middling  garden  frame,  of  one  or  two  lights, 
may  be  sufficient  for  supply  of  a  moderate  family ;  and  in  general 
about  two  feet  thick  of  dung ;  set  on  the  frame,  and  lay  about  four 
or  five  inches  deep  of  earth  on  the  bed,  ready  for  planting. 

Then  having  some  roots  of  common  spear-mint,  place  them  upon 
the  surface,  pretty  thick,  and  cover  them  with  earth  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  deep;  or  you  may  place  the  roots  in  drills,  and  draw  the 
earth  over  them. 

The  mint  will  appear  in  about  a  week  or  fortnight,  and  will  be  in 
fine  order  for  mint-sauce,  &c.,  and  either  to  use  alone  as  a  salad,  or 
to  mix  among  other  small  herbs. 

By  the  same  means  you  may  obtain  green  tansy  and  tarragon. 

SMALL   SALADING. 

Make  a  slight  hot-bed,  in  which  to  sow  the  different  sorts  of  small 
salading,  such  as  cresses,  mustard,  radish  and  rape,  and  likewise  let- 
tuce, to  cut  while  young. 

The  hot-bed  for  these  seeds  need  not  be  more  than  about  two  feet 
thick  of  dung,  and  must  be  covered  with  a  frame  and  glasses.  The 
earth  must  be  light  and  dry,  and  laid  about  four  or  five  or  six  inches 
thick  on  the  bed ;  then  let  small  shallow  flat  drills  be  drawn  from 
the  back  to  the  front  of  the  bed;  sow  the  seed  therein,  each  sort 
separately,  and  very  thick,  covering  them  not  more  than  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  deep  with  earth;  or,  if  but  just  covered,  is  sufficient,  and  the 
plants  will  rise  more  expeditious  and  regular ;  or  the  seed  may  be 
sown  thick  all  over  the  surface  of  the  bed,  each  sort  separate ;  smooth 
it  down  with  the  spade,  then  sift  as  much  light  earth  over  as  will 
just  cover  it,  as  above  observed,  and  directly  put  on  the  glasses ;  or 
in  want  of  frames  and  lights,  may  use  hand-glasses,  observing  in 
general  to  cover  the  glasses  every  night,  and  in  severe  frosty  weather, 
with  mats  or  straw  litter,  &c. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  give  them  as  much  air  as  the  state 
of  the  weather  will  admit  of,  by  raising  the  glasses  on  props ;  other- 
wise they  will  be  apt  to  mould  or  fog,  and  spoil  as  fast  as  they  come 
up. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  where  a  regular  succession  of  these 
small  herbs  is  required  for  salad,  should  repeat  the  sowings,  at  least 
once  a  fortnight. 

If  you  have  not  hot  dung  to  spare  to  make  hot-beds  for  this  pur- 
pose, may  sow  in  a  sloping  bed  of  natural  earth,  under  a  shallow  gar- 
den frame,  covered  with  glasses:  allotting  for  this  occasion  some 
warm  compartments  of  rich  earth  in  the  full  sun  :  preparing  it  in  a 
sloping  manner  fronting  the  south,  a  foot  higher  on  the  north  side 
than  in  front.  Set  a  frame  thereon,  sinking  the  back  part,  &c.,  so 
as  to  have  the  whole  surface  of  the  earth  within  six  or  eight  inches 
of  the  glasses  ;  sow  the  salading,  put  on  the  glasses,  cover  them  care- 
fully with  mats,  &c.,  at  night  and  in  very  severe  weather,  and  you 
need  not  doubt  of  success ;  though,  generally,  a  hot-bed  will  always 
prove  the  most  effectually  successful  on  this  occasion. 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  29 


CAULIFLOWER   PLANTS. 

Look  over,  in  open  weather,  the  cauliflower  plants  which  were 
raised  and  planted  in  frames  last  autumn  for  protection  in  winter,  to 
plant  out  in  spring  for  an  early  summer  crop ;  and  where  withered  or 
damaged  leaves  appear,  let  them  be  picked  off;  suffer  no  weeds  to 
grow  among  them,  and  stir  the  surface  gently  between,  which  will 
enliven  and  cherish  the  plants. 

In  open  weather  let  the  plants  have  plenty  of  air  every  day,  by 
raising  the  glasses,  or  by  taking  them  entirely  off  when  the  weather 
is  mild  and  dry ;  but  generally  continue  the  glasses  over  in  rainy 
weather :  keep  them  close  down  every  night,  and  do  not  open  them 
at  all  in  severe  frosty  weather. 

In  severe  weather  cover  the  glasses  every  night  with  mats,  straw, 
or  fern,  &c.,  also,  if  there  be  occasion,  in  the  day-time,  in  very  rigor- 
ous frost ;  likewise,  in  such  weather,  lay  some  litter  round  the  out- 
sides  of  the  frame,  for  this  will  be  very  serviceable  in  preventing  the 
frost  from  entering  at  the  sides. 

Cauliflowers  under  hand  or  bell-glasses  must  also  have  air  every 
mild  day,  by  raising  the  glasses  two  or  three  inches  on  the  warmest 
side  j  in  sharp  weather  keep  them  close ;  in  severe  frost  lay  some  litter 
round,  and  straw  or  mats  over  each  glass ;  this  will  protect  the  plants 
greatly ;  in  mild  dry  weather  the  glasses  may  be  taken  off  every  day 
for  a  few  hours ;  but  they  must  be  kept  close  every  night. 

SOWING   CAULIFLOWER   SEED. 

Sow  cauliflower  seed  the  beginning,  middle,  or  any  time  this  month, 
to  raise  plants  to  succeed  those  sown  in  autumn ;  or  also,  in  case  none 
were  sown  at  that  time  for  an  early  summer  crop,  or  that  they  have 
been  killed  by  the  severity  of  the  winter ;  but  in  order  to  bring  the 
plants  up  soon,  and  forward  them  in  growth,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
sow  them  in  a  slight  hot-bed.  Plants  sown  at  this  season,  if  well 
managed,  are  to  be  more  depended  on  for  a  general  crop,  than  those 
which  were  sown  in  autumn,  as  they  are  not  so  apt  to  button  or  run 
to  seed  in  April  or  May  as  the  others,  and  will  produce  their  flowers 
within  ten  days  as  early ;  though  such  of  the  autumn  raised  plants 
as  do  not  button,  generally  produce  larger  flowers  and  earlier. 

Make  the  bed  as  directed  for  cucumbers,  in  page  21,  to  about  three 
feet  high,  which,  when  settled,  will  fall  to  about  two  feet  six  inches, 
and  put  a  frame  on ;  then  lay  four  or  five  inches  of  rich  earth  over 
the  bed,  sow  the  seed  on  the  surface,  but  not  until  the  violent  heat 
of  the  bed  is  over ;  cover  it  by  sifting  or  otherwise,  with  light  dry 
earth,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  and  then  put  on  the  glasses. 

When  the  plants  appear,  let  them  have  air  every  day  that  the 
weather  will  permit,  by  raising  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  an  inch 
or  two ;  and  in  very  mild  weather,  the  lights  may  be  taken  off  en- 
tirely for  a  few  hours  in  the  warm  part  of  the  day :  the  plants  must 
not  be  kept  too  close,  for  that  would  draw  them  up  so  weak  as  to 
render  them  of  little  value ;  therefore  give  them  as  much  air  as  pos- 
sible, consistent  with  their  preservation  and  promotion  of  growth; 


30  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

but  let  them  be  covered  carefully  at  night,  and  in  very  severe 
weather. 

Water  them  frequently,  but  sparingly,  with  water  which  has  stood 
over  night  in  the  hot-bed ;  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  in  one 
month  they  will  be  fit  for  transplanting  into  another  hot-bed.  (See 
February!)  ;  :  ,v 

SOWING  CABBAGE  SEED. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  sow  a  full  crop  of  early  cabbage  seed,  to 
raise  plants  to  succeed  those  sown  in  September;  the  kinds  most 
suitable  are  the  early  Wakefield,  early  York,  early  dwarf  Battersea, 
and  early  Vanack ;  they  are  to  be  treated  in  every  respect,  as  di- 
rected for  the  cauliflower  plants,  with  this  difference,  that  as  they  are 
somewhat  more  hardy,  a  less  degree  of  heat  will  be  sufficient. 

Sow  also  some  of  the  large  late  kinds  of  cabbage,  such  as  the  flat 
Dutch,  drum-head,  &c.,  likewise  some  of  the  red  pickling  cabbage ; 
and  plants  from  this  sowing  will  be  fit  for  use  in  July,  August,  &c., 
and  will  produce  better  and  larger  heads  than  if  sown  in  April  or 
May ;  and  besides,  they  will  immediately  succeed  the  early  summer 
kinds  above  mentioned. 


SOWING  CARROTS. 

In  some  families  young  carrots  are  required  as  early  as  possible, 
and  they  may  be  forwarded  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  moderate  hot- 
bed, about  the  end  of  this  month. 

Make  the  hot-bed  about  two  feet  thick  of  dung,  and  procure  some 
light,  rich,  dry  earth,  which  lay  six  inches  thick  on  the  bed.  Sow 
the  seed  thinly  on  the  surface,  and  cover  it  with  the  same  kind  of 
earth  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 

When  the  plants  come  up,  let  them  enjoy  the  free  air  in  mild 
weather,  and  cover  them  in  cold  nights,  and  also  in  very  severe  frost, 
whilst  young  ;  and  when  an  inch  or  two  high,  thin  them  to  about 
three  inches  asunder;  and  you  will  thus  have  young  spring  carrots 
for  drawing  in  April  and  May.  The  early  horn  carrot  is  the  best 
for  this  purpose. 

SOWING  RADISHES. 

In  order  to  have  radishes  as  early  as  possible,  recourse  must  be 
had  to  the  assistance  of  hot-beds ;  therefore,  any  time  in  this  month, 
make  a  moderate  hot-bed  for  one  or  more  garden  frames,  only  about 
two  feet  and  a  half  depth  of  dung,  sufficient  just  to  promote  the  early 
germination  of  the  seed,  and  forward  the  plants  moderately  without 
running  them  up  long  shanked,  &c.  When  the  bed  is  made,  set  on 
the  frame,  lay  in  about  six  inches  depth  of  good  light  garden  earth, 
then  having  some  seed  of  the  best  early-frame,  olive  or  short-topped 
radish,  sow  it  evenly  on  the  surface,  press  it  into  the  earth  with  the 
back  of  a  spade,  cover  it  nearly  half  an  inch  deep  with  light  mould, 
and  put  on  the  glasses. 

When  the  plants  appear,  give  them  a  large  share  of  air,  either  by 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  31 

taking  the  glasses,  &c.,  entirely  off,  whenever  it  can  be  done  with 
safety,  even  for  half  an  hour  at  a  time,  or  tilting  them  up  high  at 
one  end,  as  the  weather  will  permit,  otherwise  they  will  draw,  or  run 
up  long  shanked,  and  be  spoiled ;  and  after  the  plants  have  been  up 
a  few  days,  thin  them  regularly  with  your  hand,  where  they  stand 
too  thick,  and  leave  the  strongest  plants  standing  not  less  than  an 
inch  asunder.  Support  a  gentle  heat  in  the  bed,  when  it  declines, 
by  applying  a  moderate  lining  of  hot  dung. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Mushroom-beds  should  be  carefully  attended  to  at  this  season. 
They  should  have  sufficient  covering  to  defend  them  effectually  from 
the  frost,  rain,  or  snow;  which  should  not  be  less  than  two  feet 
thick }  and  if  heavy  rain  or  snow  should  have  penetrated  quite 
through  the  covering,  this  must  be  removed  immediately,  or  your 
spawn  will  be  in  danger  of  perishing.  Replace  it  with  good  covering 
of  clean  and  dry  wheat  or  other  straw ;  and  in  order  to  defend  the  bed 
more  effectually  from  wet  and  cold,  it  is  advisable  to  spread  some 
large  garden  mats,  or  canvas  cloths,  over  the  straw,  which  will  greatly 
preserve  the  beds.* 

ARTICHOKES. 

Artichokes,  if  not  landed  up  before,  should  not  be  neglected  any 
longer,  except  the  severity  of  the  frost  prevents  it :  in  which  case,  as 
these  plants  are  liable  to  suffer  greatly  by  rigorous  frosts,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  give  some  temporary  protection,  first  clearing  away  the 
decayed  and  large  old  leaves,  then  apply  a  good  thiok  covering  of 
long,  dry,  strawy  dung,  or  mulchy  litter,  close  about  each  plant :  but, 
if  open  dry  weather,  it  would  be  most  expedient  to  land  them  up ; 
observing,  preparatory  to  this,  to  cut  away  all  the  large  and  decayed 
old  leaves  close  to  the  ground ;  then  dig  between,  and  earth  up  the 
plants,  as  in  November  and  December. 

But  the  work  of  landing  up  artichokes  should  always  be  performed 
in  November  or  December ;  for  which  see  the  work  of  these  months. 
It  should  never  be  omitted  j  for  it  is  the  most  general  effective 
method  of  preserving  the  plants  in  severe  winters. 

And  after  they  are  landed,  if  the  frost  should  j>rove  very  severe, 
it  will  also  be  proper  to  lay  light,  dry,  long  litter  over  the  rows :  if 
the  plants  are  of  the  true  globe  sort,  too  great  care  cannot  be  taken 
to  preserve  them ;  for  sometimes  a  severe  winter  makes  a  great  havoc 
among  them ;  and,  in  spring,  young  sets  to  recruit  the  plantations 
may  be  very  difficult  to  procure. 

SOUTHERN  STATES. 

In  Georgia,  South  Carolina,  and  such  parts  of  the  other  southern 
States  as  are  not  subject  to  winter  frosts,  you  may  sow  carrots,  parsneps, 

*  The  most  economical  and  sure  way  to  grow  mushrooms  is  in  a  cellar 
or  shed,  where  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  is  maintained. 


32  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

beets,  spinach,  lettuce,  radish,  celery,  parsley,  cabbage,  cauliflower, 
borecole,  broccoli,  leeks,  onions,  &c.,  especially  towards  the  latter  end 
of  the  month. 

Sow  peas  and  plant  beans  of  various  kinds,  earth  up  such  peas  and 
beans  as  are  advanced  in  growth,  rod  and  stake  such  of  them  as  re- 
quire it;  plant  out  cabbage  and  cauliflower  'plants,  earth  up  late 
celery,  and  tie  up  endive  for  blanching :  and,  in  short,  do  all  the 
work  directed  to  be  done  in  the  kitchen  garden  for  the  month  of 
March,  where  you  will  find  ample  instructions  for  performing  the 
same. 

In  such  of  the  southern  or  western  States  as  frosts  are  prevalent 
in,  at  this  season,  the  above  work  must  be  deferred  till  such  period 
in  next  month,  or  even  in  March,  as  it  can  be  done  in,  without  dan- 
ger from  frost;  with  the  exception  of  planting  the  Windsor-bean 
(Vioia  Faba),  and  all  the  different  varieties  of  that  species,  which 
ought  to  be  planted  as  soon  after  the  middle  of  January  as  it  is  pos- 
sible to  get  the  ground  in  a  proper  state  of  preparation  to  receive 
them :  they  are  very  hardy,  are  not  subject  to  rot  in  the  ground  like 
kidney  beans,  provided  it  be  dry ;  they  thrive  best  in  a  heavy  strong 
soil,  and  are  seldom  very  productive  in  the  United  States,  if  not 
planted  early. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 

PRUNING. 

WHERE  pruning  was  neglected  in  November  or  December,  it  can 
now  be  done  ;  though  the  latter  end  of  February  is  a  preferable  time 
in  the  middle  States,  and  the  beginning  of  March  in  the  eastern ; 
however,  apple  and  pear-trees  being  perfectly  hardy,  may  be  pruned 
at  any  time  during  the  winter  months  with  safety ;  plums  and  cher- 
ries may  also  be  pruned  any  time  that  the  weather  is  tolerably  mild  : 
and  as  this  month  will  answer  extremely  well  in  the  southern  States 
for  pruning  almost  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  it  may  be  useful  to  give 
at  this  time  general  instructions  for  performing  the  same,  which  may 
be  referred  to  at  any  other  period. 

PRUNING  ESPALIER  AND  WALL   TREES. 

As  some  people  have  not  a  sufficient  idea  of  what  is  meant  by 
espaliers,  the  following  explanation,  and  instructions  for  forming 
them,  &c.,  may  not  be  unacceptable. 

Espaliers  are  edges  of  fruit-trees,  which  are  trained  up  regularly 
to  a  lattice  or  trellis  of  wood  work,  and  are  commonly  arranged  in  a 
single  row  in  the  borders,  round  the  boundaries  of  the  principal  divi- 
sions of  the  kitchen-garden  J  there  serving  a  double  or  treble  pur- 
pose, both  profitable,  useful,  and  ornamental.  They  produce  large 
fine  fruit  plentifully,  without  taking  up  much  room,  and  being  in  a 
close  range,  hedge-like,  they  in  some  degree  shelter  the  esculent 
crops  in  the  quarters ;  and  having  borders  immediately  under  them 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  33 

each  side,  afford  different  aspects  for  different  plants,  and  also  they 
afford  shelter  in  winter,  forwardness  to  their  south-border  crops  in 
spring,  and  shade  in  summer ;  and  as  to  ornament  and  variety,  what 
can  be  more  delightful  in  spring,  in  the  excursion  of  the  walks,  than 
the  charming  appearance  which  the  trees  make  when  covered  with 
their  showy  bloom,  differing  in  themselves,  in  those  of  different 
genera,  species,  and  varieties ;  or  in  summer,  to  see  the  fruit  of  the 
different  sorts  advancing  to  perfection,  and  in  autumn  arrive  suc- 
cessively to  maturity  ?  And  as  the  trees  are  arranged  all  of  an  equal 
height,  not  exceeding  six  feet,  closely  furnished  with  branches, 
ranged  horizontally  at  regular  distances  one  above  another,  from  the 
very  ground  upwards,  the  fruit  hereby  are  exhibited  to  great  advan- 
tage, and  being  low,  and  the  branches  fixed,  are  convenient  to  pull, 
and  not  liable  to  be  blown  down  by  wind. 

An  espalier  has  this  advantage  over  a  wall  tree,  that  as  being 
wholly  detached,  the  branches  have  liberty  to  form  fruit  spurs  on 
both  sides,  which  in  the  wall  tree  cannot  be  effected  but  on  one;  in 
fact,  common  fruit- walls  are  unnecessary  in  the  United  States,  except 
in  the  eastern  and  some  of  the  middle  States,  where  they  are  useful 
in  forwarding  to  due  perfection  and  flavor  some  late  kinds  of  superior 
peaches,  grapes,  and  other  late  fruits ;  but  when  walls  are  built  for 
other  purposes,  and  are  conveniently  situated,  advantage  ought  to  be 
taken  of  them  for  raising  fruit,  observing  to  suit  the  various  kinds  to 
the  various  aspects. 

Trellises  are  also  used  occasionally  for  wall  trees,  where  the  wall 
does  not  admit  of  nailing  the  branches  immediately  against  it ;  also 
for  training  wall  trees  in  forcing-houses  and  forcing-frames,  and  are 
formed  according  to  different  degrees  of  taste,  for  use  and  ornament, 
as  well  as  of  different  dimensions,  from  four  or  five  to  six,  or  in 
forcing-houses,  to  seven,  eight,  or  ten  feet  high. 

For  common  espalier  fruit-trees  in  the  open  ground,  a  trellis  is 
absolutely  necessary,  and  may  either  be  formed  of  common  stakes 
or  poles,  or  of  regular  joinery  work,  according  to  taste  or  fancy. 

The  cheapest,  the  easiest,  and  soonest  made  trellis  for  common 
espalier  trees,  is  that  formed  with  straight  poles,  being  cut  into  pro- 
per lengths,  and  driving  them  into  the  ground  in  a  range,  a  foot 
distant,  all  of  an  equal  height,  and  then  railed  along  the  top  with 
the  same  kind -of  poles  or  slips  of  pine  or  other  boards,  nailed  down 
to  each  stake  to  preserve  the  whole  straight  and  firm  in  a  regular 
position ;  to  which  the  branches  of  the  espalier  trees  are  to  be  fast- 
ened with  small  ozier-twigs,  rope-yarn,  &c.,  and  trained  along  hori- 
zontally from  stake  to  stake,  as  directed  for  the  different  sorts  under 
their  proper  heads. 

To  render  the  above  trellis  still  stronger,  run  two  or  three  hori- 
zontal ranges  of  rods  or  small  poles  along  the  back  parts  of  the  up- 
rights, a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  asunder,  fastening  them  to  the 
upright  stakes  either  with  pieces  of  strong  wire  twisted  two  or  three 
times  round,  or  by  nailing  them. 

But  when  more  elegant  and  ornamental  trellises  of  joinery  work 
are  required  in  any  of  the  departments,  they  are  formed  with  regu- 
larly squared  posts  and  rails,  of  good  durable  timber,  neatly  planed 
3 


34 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


[JAN. 


and  framed  together,  fixing  the  main  posts  in  the  ground,  ten  or 
twelve  feet  asunder,  "with  smaller  ones  between,  ranging  the  hori- 
zontal railing  from  post  to  post  in  three  or  more  ranges;  the  first 
being  placed  about  a  foot  from  the  bottom,  a  second  at  top,  and  one 
or  two  along  the  middle  space,  and  if  thought  convenient,  may 
range  one  between  each  of  the  intermediate  spaces;  then  fix  thin 
slips  of  lath,  or  the  like,  upright  to  the  horizontal  railing,  ten  inches 
or  a  foot  asunder;  and  paint  the  whole  with  oil  color  to  render  it 
more  ornamental  and  durable;  and  in  training  the  trees,  tie  their 
branches  both  to  the  railing  of  the  trellis  and  to  the  upright  laths, 
according  as  they  extend  in  length  on  each  side. 

In  either  of  the  above  trellises  for  a  common  espalier,  five  or  six 
feet  at  most  is  a  sufficient  height,  as,  if  much  higher,  the  winds, 
having  great  power,  would  be  very  apt  to  loosen  and  displace  them. 

The  permanent  trellises  ought  not  to  be  made  till  the  second  or 
third  year  after  planting,  except  the  trees  have  had  as  long  a  time 
of  regular  and  judicious  training;  for  while  they  are  young,  it  will 
be  sufficient  to  drive  a  few  short  stakes  into  the  ground  on  each  side 
of  the  trees  in  a  straight  line,  to  which  the  branches  should  be  fast- 
ened in  a  horizontal  position  as  they  are  produced,  in  order  to  train 
them  properly  for  the  espalier ;  these  will  be  sufficient  for  the  two 
or  three  first  years,  for  should  you  make  the  regular  espalier  or 
trellis  the  first  year  the  trees  are  planted,  many  of  the  stakes  would 
rot  before  the  espalier  is  covered.  For  directions  respecting  the 
planting  espalier  and  wall-trees,  see  March  and  October. 


TRAINING. 


The  following  representations  of  the  modes  of  training  convey  to 
the  eye  examples  which  it  will  be  well  to  study : — 


a.  The  herring-bone  fan.  b.  The  irregular  fan.  c.  The  stellate  fan.  d.  The  drooping 
fan.  e.  The  wavy  fan.  /.  The  horizontal,  g.  The  horizontal,  with  screw-stem,  h.  The 
horizontal,  with  double  stem.  i.  The  vertical,  with  screw  shoots,  k.  The  vertical,  with 
upright  shoots. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  35 


PRUNING  APPLE   AND   PEAR-TREES   IN   ESPALIERS,    OR   TRAINED   TO 
WALLS   OR  BOARD  FENCES. 

Apple  and  pear-trees  being  of  the  spur-bearing  kind,  and  their 
mode  of  bearing  similar,  one  method  of  pruning  answers  for  both  ; 
they  producing  their  fruit  upon  short  natural  spurs  from  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  branches,  and  the  same  branches  continue  bearing 
for  many  years,  increasing  their  quantity  of  fruit  spurs  as  they  gra- 
dually advance  in  length ;  let  it  therefore  be  remarked,  that  in  the 
general  course  of  pruning  those  trees,  their  branches  and  shoots  are 
not  to  be  shortened,  but  generally  trained  along  horizontally  to  the 
espalier  and  wall  at  their  natural  length,  at  least  as  far  as  there  is 
scope  of  room  to  extend  them;  never  shortened,  except  on  particular 
occasions  below  explained,  and  the  whole  trained  four  to  five  or  six 
inches  asunder. 

Keeping  therefore  this  in  mind,  look  over  the  general  branches, 
in  which  observe,  that  in  such  advancing  young  trees  as  are  still  in 
training,  requiring  a  further  supply  of  young  wood  to  form  the  head, 
be  careful  to  select  and  retain  a  proper  quantity  of  the  best  placed 
last  summer's  shoots  at  full  length,  and  generally  a  terminal  shoot  to 
each  mother  branch,  and  cut  out  all  the  superfluous  and  irregular 
ones;  but  in  full-trained  or  old  trees,  still  retaining  the  former 
trained  or  same  individual  bearing  branches  for  many  years,  as  long 
as  they  continue  fruitful ;  and  only  examine  any  particular  branches 
that  appear  worn  out  or  decayed,  or  any  that  are  too  much  crowded 
or  very  irregular,  and  let  such  now  be  pruned  out;  at  the  same  time 
observe  where  any  of  the  last  summer's  shoots  are  wanted  to  supply 
vacant  spaces,  and  retain  them  accordingly;  cutting  out  all  the  super- 
fluous or  over  abundant  close  to  the  main  branches;  likewise,  let  all 
foreright  and  other  irregular-placed  shoots  be  cut  away,  carefully  re- 
taining the  leading  shoot  to  all  the  main  branches  where  there  is  a 
scope  to  run  them,  so  retaining  the  general  branches  and  the  neces- 
sary supply  of  young  wood  about  four  to  five  or  six  inches  asunder, 
to  be  trained  to  the  trellis  or  wall,  &c.,  all  at  their  full  length  as 
aforesaid ;  and,  according  as  they  advance  in  length,  still  continue 
extending  them,  or  without  shortening,  at  least  as  far  as  their  limited 
space  admits. 

In  the  course  of  this  pruning,  have  particular  care  to  preserve  all 
the  natural  fruit-spurs ;  but  cut  away  all  those  formed  of  the  remain- 
ing stumps  of  shorted  shoots,  for  these  rarely  produce  anything  but 
a  confusion  of  unnecessary  wood-shoots  every  summer;  and  for 
which  reason  be  careful,  in  pruning  out  the  superfluous  and  irregular 
shoots,  always  to  cut  them  off  quite  dose  from  whence  they  originate.* 

Then  train  in  all  the  remaining  proper  branches  and  shoots  at 
their  full  length,  about  from  four  to  five  or  six  inches  asunder,  as 

*  The  better  way  to  prevent  superfluous  lateral  shoots  is  to  pinch  them 
into  a  few  buds  from  time  to  time  through  the  summer,  and  prune  into  one 
or  two  eyes  in  the  winter.  This  practice  will,  after  some  two  or  three 
years,  destroy  the  exuberance,  and  form  fruit-buds,  instead  of  wood-shoots. 


36  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

i 

aforesaid,  without  reducing  them  in  length  either  in  the  summer  or 
winter  pruning. 

By  the  above  practice,  the  shoots  of  branches  of  these  trees  will, 
about  the  second  or  third  year  after  they  are  laid  in,  begin  to  pro- 
duce short  shoots  or  spurs  (as  they  are  generally  termed)  about  an 
inch  or  two  in  length,  some  not  above  half  an  inch  j  and  from  these 
the  fruit  is  produced. 

But  if  the  branches  of  these  trees  were  to  be  shortened,  it  would 
be  cutting  off  the  very  part  where  blossom  buds  or  spurs  first  begin 
to  appear;  and  instead  of  those  fruitful  parts,  they  would  send  forth 
a  number  of  strong  wood- shoots.  This  plainly  shows  that  the  shoots 
which  were  intended  for  fruit-bearing  must  not  be  generally  short- 
ened, for  if  that  is  practised,  the  trees  would  constantly  run  to  wood, 
and  never  produce  any  tolerable  crop  of  fruit. 

If,  indeed,  there  is  a  want  of  wood  in  any  part  of  these  trees,  then 
the  occasional  shortening  of  some  of  the  adjacent  young  shoots  may 
be  necessary,  whereby  to  promote  a  production  of  laterals  the  ensuing 
summer,  to  furnish  the  vacancy. 

For  instance,  if  there  is  any  vacant  part  in  the  tree,  and  two, 
three,  or  more  shoots  are  requisite  to  furnish  that  vacancy,  and  only 
one  shoot  was  produced  in  that  part  the  preceding  summer,  that  shoot, 
in  such  a  case,  being  now  shortened  to  four  or  five  buds,if  it  be  strong, 
will  produce  three  or  four  lateral  shoots. 

PRUNING  PLUMS   AND   CHERRIES. 

This  is  also  a  proper  season  to  prune  plums  and  cherries,  either 
against  walls  or  espaliers,  especially  where  the  weather  is  mild. 

Let  it  be  observed  in  the  pruning  of  these  trees  against  walls  or 
espaliers,  that,  like  the  apples  and  pears,  they  being  of  the.  spur- 
bearing  kind,  producing  the  fruit  upon  short  natural  spurs  or  studs, 
emitted  along  the  sides  of  the  branches,  or  from  two  or  three  to  many 
years  old,  so  must  accordingly  retain  the  same  branches  many  years 
for  bearers,  which  must  not  be  shortened  in  the  course  of  pruning, 
but  trained  horizontally  at  their  full  length,  about  three  or  four  to 
five  or  six  inches  asunder;  also  all  young  shoots  of  the  last  year's 
growth,  as  are  now  proper  to  be  reserved  in  vacancies,  to  furnish  the 
wall  or  espalier  with  bearing  wood,  must  not  be  shortened ;  but  every 
such  shoot  or  branch  must  be  left  entire ;  and  this  should  at  all  times 
be  observed,  which  is  the  only  certain  method  whereby  to  render  the 
branches  fruitful. 

In  the  operation  of  pruning  these  trees,  observe,  as  advised  for 
the  apple  and  pear  trees,  to  give  proper  attention  both  in  any  young 
trees  still  under  training,  and  in  the  fully  trained  older  trees  furnished 
with  the  requisite  expansion  of  branches. 

Observing,  in  the  former,  i.  e.,  the  young  trees  under  training, 
that  where  further  supplies  of  branches  are  required  in  order  to  form 
a  proper  expansion  of  bearers  trained  in  regularity,  should  be  careful 
to  leave  some  best  well-placed  young  shoots  for  that  purpose,  and 
cut  out  the  improper  and  unnecessary,  such  as  fore-right  and  other 
irregular  placed  growths ;  or  also  any  superfluous  or  over-abundant 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  3t 

shoots  that  may  occur  in  particular  parts  of  the  trees,  retaining  the 
reserved  proper  shoots  mostly  at  their  full  length,  for  training  as 
above ;  and  they  will  thus  in  from  one  to  two  or  three  year's  growth, 
furnish  natural  fruit  spurs  for  bearing ;  but  generally  sooner  in  the 
cherries  than  the  plums,  as  some  sort  of  cherries  will  probably  bear 
fruit  the  same  year  on  the  young  shoots  now  trained  in :  the  morella 
in  particular  bears  mostly  on  the  one  year  old  shoots.  For  observa- 
tions thereon  see  November. 

And  in  the  full  trained  trees  of  the  above  sorts,  look  carefully 
over  the  general  expansion;  and  where  any  occasional  supply  of 
young  wood  appears  necessary,  select  and  retain  some  best- placed 
proper  shoots  of  last  summer  accordingly,  either  to  furnish  any  pre- 
sent vacancy,  or  to  train  in  between  the  m'ain  branches  where  it  may 
seem  expedient,  in  order  to  be  advancing  to  a  bearing  state,  ready  to 
supply  any  apparent  future  occasion;  but  in  the  morella  particularly, 
above  mentioned,  retain  always  a  general  supply  for  principal  bear- 
ers :  (see  November :)  and  prune  out  all  irregular  and  superabundant 
shoots  close  to  the  mother  branches ;  and  if  casual  worn-out  or  de- 
cayed old  unfruitful  branches  occur,  let  them  now  be  cut  out,  retain- 
ing young  wood  of  proper  growth,  &c.,  to  supply  their  place;  pre- 
serving also,  in  all  vacant  spaces,  a  supply  of  the  best  young  shoots 
at  their  natural  length,  as  above  advised,  and  a  leading  one  to  each 
branch  ;  being  careful  to  preserve  all  the  short  natural  fruit  spurs, 
and  cut  away  close  any  remaining  naked  stumps  of  former  shortened 
shoots  :  then,  as  soon  as  the  tree  is  thus  pruned,  proceed  to  train  in 
all  the  proper  shoots  and  branches  to  the  wall  or  espalier,  at  their 
full  length  as  aforesaid,  at  the  above  mentioned  distances:  and  all 
those  thus  treated  will  in  two  or  three  years'  time  send  out  many 
short  shoots  or  fruit  spurs,  about  half  an  inch  or  an  inch  in  length ; 
and  from  these  spurs  the  fruit  is  always  produced. 

These  spurs  generally  appear  first  toward  the  upper  part,  or  that 
which  was  once  the  superior  part  of  the  one,  two  or  three  years  old 
branches ;  and  if  shortening  was  to  be  practised,  those  parts  would 
consequently  be  cut  away  where  the  blossom-buds  would  have  other- 
wise first  made  their  appearance.  Therefore,  in  the  course  of  prun- 
ing apple,  pear,  plum,  and  cherry-trees,  never  shorten  or  top  the 
young  shoots  that  are  left  for  a  supply  of  bearing  wood,  nor  any  of 
the  bearing  branches,  if  there  is  room  to  extend  them  ;  and  they  will 
thus  all  gradually  form  themselves  into  a  plentiful  bearing  state. 

But  if  shortening  was  generally  practised  to  these  kinds  of  fruit- 
trees,  as  is  the  case  with  many  pruners,  it  would  prove  their  mani- 
fest destruction  in  regard  to  preventing  their  fruitfulness :  for  in  the 
places  where  fruit-buds  would  otherwise  naturally  appear,  there  would 
advance  nothing  but  strong  wood  shoots ;  so  that  the  trees  would  be 
continually  crowded  with  useless  and  unfruitful  wood. 

When,  however,  there  is  at  any  time  a  supply  of  wood  wanted, 
then  shortening  particular  shoots  may  be  proper,  as  observed  above 
for  the  apples  and  pears.* 

*  The  reader  will  also  consult  with  advantage  the  pages  of  the  Horticultur- 
ist, and  Barry's  and  Thomas1  Fruit  Books  for  remarks  on  pruning  garden 
and  orchard  trees. 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  IN  PRUNING  ALL  THE  ABOVE  TREES. 

I  observed  above,  that  shortening  the  branches  of  apple,  pear, 
plum  and  cherry-trees,  was  not  proper  in  the  general  course  of  prun- 
ing; it,  however,  in  some  particular  cases,  is  most  necessary;  for 
which  take  the  following  hints  : — 

For  example,  when  the  trees,  for  walls  and  espaliers  particularly, 
are  about  one  year  old  from  the  budding  or  grafting,  either  in  the 
nursery,  or  newly  planted  against  walls  or  espaliers,  with  their  first 
shoot  immediately  from  the  budding  or  grafting,  at  full  length,  it 
is  proper  to  shorten  or  head  down  these  shoots  near  the  insertion  of 
the  bud  or  graft,  to  force  out  lateral  branches,  which  is  called  head- 
ing down  the  trees ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  till  February  or 
March,  cutting  them  down  to  four  or  five  eyes ;  which  will  procure  a 
production  of  lateral  shoots  near  the  head  of  the  stock  from  these 
remaining  lower  eyes  or  buds,  the  following  summer,  in  order  for 
training  in  accordingly,  that  the  wall  or  espalier  may  be  regularly 
furnished  with  branches  from  the  bottom.  After  this,  the  branches 
are  to  be  trained  along  at  their  full  length,  except  it  appears  neces- 
sary to  shorten  some  or  all  of  these  lateral  shoots,  in  order  that  each 
may  throw  out  also  two  or  three  lateral  branches  to  furnish  that  part 
of  the  tree  more  effectually;  training  the  said  lateral  shoots  also  at 
their  full  length;  but  if  there  appear  to  be  still  more  branches  want- 
ing, some  of  the  most  convenient  of  these  last  shoots  may  also  be 
shortened,  to  promote  their  producing  a  farther  supply  of  lateral 
branches,  sufficient  to  give  the  tree  its  proper  form  ;  for  the  great 
article  in  this  training- pruning  is  to  encourage  and  assist  young  wall 
and  espalier  fruit-trees  in  their  first  two  or  three  years'  growth,  to 
produce  shoots  in  proper  places,  so  as  to  cover  the  wall  or  espalier 
regularly  with  branches  from  the  bottom  to  the  top. 

But  when  the  trees  have  acquired  branches  enough  to  effect  the 
first  proper  formation  of  the  head,  they  will  afterwards  naturally  fur- 
nish further  supplies  to  cover  the  wall  or  espalier  regularly  every 
way  to  the  allotted  extent,  without  any  further  shortening,  except  on 
particular  occasions,  when  a  vacancy  happens  in  any  part,  according 
to  the  rule  mentioned  in  the  article  of  apples  and  pears. 

There  is  one  thing  further  to  be  observed  in  pruning  apple,  pear, 
plum,  and  cherry-trees ;  and  that  is,  when  the  trees  have  acquired 
branches  enough  to  cover  the  wall  or  espalier  at  the  distance  above 
mentioned,  then  all  those  young  shoots  of  the  last  summer's  growth, 
that  are  not  wanted  in  vacancies  to  form  new  bearers,  must  be  cut 
off  quite  close  to  the  place  from  whence  they  arise,  leaving  no  spurs 
but  the  fruit-spurs  that  are  naturally  produced,  which  every  branch 
will  be  plentifully  furnished  with  if  the  above  rules  are  observed. 

''<§'  PINCHING   THE   PEAR-TREE. 

Nipping  with  the  finger  and  thumb  the  soft  young  shoots,  forms 
an  excellent  remedy  for  defects  of  growth.  Following  up  this  stop- 
ping at  regular  intervals  of  the  tree's  growth,  the  operator  secures  a 


JAN.] 


THE-  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


39 


profusion  and  regularity  of  lateral  branches.  He  does  not  wait  till 
his  plant  has  grown  tall  and  misshapen,  but  as  soon  as  he  sees  well 
formed  buds  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  he  knows  that  by  stopping  the 
terminal  growth  these  buds  will  be  forced  onward  and  produce  lateral 
shoots. 

An  undue  share  of  vigor  in  one  or  more  shoots,  weakens  all  the 
other  parts  of  the  tree  by  appropriating  all  the  nutriment  to  them- 
selves. Fig.  3  represents  a  tree  which  became  slightly  bent,  and 
this  arrested  the  continuous  flow  of  sap  to  the  summit;  the  conse- 
quence was  the  development  of  a  very  strong  shoot,  which  controlled 
the  whole  tree.  That  strong  grower  pushing  out  with  undue  vigor, 
should  have  been  checked,  and  thus  an  equal  distribution  of  growth 
would  be  secured,  that  would  leave,  at  the  end  of  the  season,  a  tree 
somewhat  resembling  Fig.  4. 


Fig.  3. 


Fig.  4. 


Fig.  5. 


Fig.  6. 


Pinching  is  an  indispensable  operation  in  the  management  of  trees 
trained  as  dwarfs,  pyramids,  or  espaliers.  Most  trees  have  a  natural 
tendency  to  grow  most  vigorously  towards  the  top  and  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  branches;  this  should  be  kept  in  continual  check,  for 
if  one  portion  be  permitted  but  for  a  short  time  to  grow  more  vigor- 
ously than  the  others,  the  balance  is  destroyed,  and  much  time  and 
severe  measures  are  required  to  restore  it. 

In  the  case  of  young  trees  that  have  been  cut  back  for  the  purpose 
of  producing  the  pyramid  form,  it  often  happens  that  three  or  four 
buds  at  the  summit  push  so  vigorously  as  to  draw  all  the  sap  past 
those  below  them,  and  a  tree  something  like  Fig.  5  is  the  result.  If 
the  upper  shoots  next  the  leader  had  been  checked  by  pinching,  the 
lower  branches  would  have  been  benefited,  and  we  should  see  a  tree 
like  Fig.  6. 


PEACHES,  NECTARINES,  AND   APRICOTS. 

In  the  training  and  pruning  of  peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots, 
little  or  no  difference  is  to  be  observed ;  they  all  produce  their  fruit 


40  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

principally  upon  the  young  shoots  of  the  former  summer,  the  fruit- 
blossoms  rising  directly  from  the  eyes  of  the  shoots ;  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply of  which  must  be  reserved  annually  in  every  part,  to  train  in  for 
bearing ;  they  also  sometimes  bear  on  the  small  natural  spurs  arising 
on  the  two  or  three  years'  wood,  which  generally  occur  more  fre- 
quently in  the  apricots ;  and  all  such  spurs  should  be  carefully  pre- 
served, for  they  generally  bear  good  fruit ;  keeping  in  mind,  how- 
ever, that  the  young  yearling  shoots  are  to  be  considered  as  the  gene- 
ral bearers  :  observing  that  as  the  general  branches  and  bearing  shoots 
are  to  be  trained  to  the  wall  or  espalier  horizontally,  about  three  to 
four  or  five  inches  distant,  we  must  prune  out  annually  all  super- 
abundant shoots,  or  that  are  more  than  can  be  trained  in  with  proper 
regularity,  likewise  a  considerable  part  of  the  old,  or  two  last  year's 
bearers;  and,  observing,  that  as  a  general  supply  of  the  best  of  the 
last  year's  shoots  must  annually  be  left  in  a  regular  manner  in  every 
part  of  the  tree,  to  bear  the  fruit  the  succeeding  summer,  each  of  the 
said  shoots  must  be  shortened  more  or  less,  according  to  their  strength, 
now  in  the  winter  pruning,  as  directed  below,  in  order  to  encourage 
them  to  produce  a  more  regular  succession  of  bearing  wood  in  the 
ensuing  summer.  The  wood  which  is  then  produced,  will  bear  fruit 
in  the  summer  after  that  ;  and  the  same  shoots  both  bear  the  fruit 
and  a  supply  of  successional  shoots  at  the  same  time  for  future  bear- 
ers, &c. 

Before  you  begin  to  prune,  in  these  trees  particularly,  it  is  proper 
generally  to  unnail  and  unbind  all  the  young  shoots  which  were 
nailed  or  bound  in  last  summer,  and  great  part  of  their  respective 
mother  branches ;  by  which  means  you  will  have  room  to  examine 
the  shoots,  and  to  use  your  knife  properly. 

In  the  course  of  pruning  these  trees,  be  careful  to  select  the  most 
promising  and  best  situated  shoots  at  the  above  distances,  in  a  regular 
manner,  advancing,  as  it  were,  one  after  another  in  every  part  of  the 
tree,  making  room  for  them  by  cutting  out  all  the  other  useless  or 
unnecessary  shoots,  together  with  a  proportionable  share  of  the  for- 
mer bearers,  before  intimated,  and  old  naked  branches  not  furnished 
with  bearing  wood. 

For  example,  you  are  to  observe,  that  these  young  shoots  are,  as 
above  hinted,  produced  principally  upon  those  shoots,  which  were  laid 
in  last  winter,  and  which  produced  the  fruit  last  summer,  and  some 
casually  on  the  older  wood  ;  but  shall  suppose  many  of  the  said 
shoots  or  branches,  which  were  laid  in  last  winter,  to  have  produced 
each  three  shoots  in  summer,  and  that  they  now  all  remain,  but  that 
there  may  not  be  room  to  lay  in  more  than  one  of  the  said  shoots  on 
each  of  the  branches,  it  remains  to  be  considered  which  of  these 
three  shoots  on  each  branch  is  proper  to  be  left;  whether  the  upper- 
most, middle,  or  lower  of  the  three  :  there  is  no  general  rule  for  this, 
but  we  will  suppose  the  middlemost,  in  which  case  cut  off  the  lower 
one  quite  close  to  the  branch,  and  then  that  part  of  the  branch  which 
hath  the  upper  shoot  upon  it  must  be  pruned  down  to  the  middle 
one ;  so  that  there  is  only  the  middle  shoot  now  remaining,  which 
terminates  or  makes  the  end  of  the  branch ;  but,  if  it  is  thought 
most  convenient  to  leave  the  uppermost  of  the  three,  the  middle  and 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  41 

lower  are  to  be  cut  away  close  to  the  branch ;  or,  on  the  contrary,  if 
the  lower  shoot  only  is  to  be  left,  cut  off  the  branch  with  the  middle 
and  upper  shoot  thereon,  close  to  the  lower  one  j  and  if  thought  most 
proper  to  leave  in  any  place  two  out  of  the  three  shoots  on  a  branch, 
then  the  upper  and  lower  are  apparently  most  proper,  provided  they 
are  the  best  shoots,  and  so  cut  out  the  middle  one ;  or  if  two  lower 
shoots  appear  best  for  your  purpose,  cut  off  the  upper  part  of  the 
branch  with  the  top  shoot  close  to  the  middle  one ;  and,  if  to  retain 
the  two  upper  shoots,  prune  out  the  lowermost :  there  may  not  always 
happen  to  be  just  three  young  shoots  on  every  year's  branches,  but  I 
choose  to  mention  that  number,  that  I  may  be  the  better  able  in  this 
small  compass  to  explain  and  convey  some  idea  of  the  method  prac- 
tised in  pruning  these  sorts  of  trees. 

At  the  same  time  observe,  in  the  above  general  pruning,  to  retain 
the  most  promising  well-placed  shoots  of  the  best  middling,  or  mode- 
rately strong  growth,  and  which  appear  the  most  fruitful,  or  likely  to 
furnish  a  proper  supply  of  blossom-buds,  rejecting  very  weakly  slender 
shoots,  and  such  as  are  very  long-jointed,  likewise  uncommonly  thick 
spongy  growths,  as  also  remarkably  rank  luxuriants,  cutting  them 
all  clean  out ;  likewise  the  foreright  and  others  ill  placed,  that  could 
not  be  trained  with  proper  regularity.  And,  as  you  proceed,  cut  out 
some  considerable  part  of  the  past  bearers  of  the  last,  or  two  or  three 
preceding  years,  to  make  room  for  the  above  young  supply,  pruning 
them  down  to  some  eligible  lateral  shoots,  or  some  occasionally  to 
their  origin,  as  it  may  seem  expedient :  also  take  out  casual  old 
naked  branches,  advanced  of  some  considerable  length,  without  being 
now  furnished  with  lateral  young  bearers,  or  fruitful  shoots,  eligibly 
placed  for  training  where  wanted ;  pruning  them  either  entirely  out 
to  make  room  for  the  more  fruitful  wood,  or  pruned  down,  more  or 
less,  to  any  more  prolific  well-placed  young  branch  proceeding  there- 
from, and  that  is  furnished  with  young  shoots  for  bearing. 

Next  let  it  be  remembered,  that  as  you  proceed  in  pruning  these  trees, 
most  of  those  young  shoots  that  are  left  to  bear  must  be  shortened, 
especially  the  smaller  and  middling,  and  those  of  moderate  growth, 
both  to  strengthen  them  in  their  future  production,  and  to  promote 
their  producing  more  certainly  a  supply  of  successional  lateral  shoots 
next  summer,  properly  situated,  so  as  to  continue  every  part  of  the 
tree  always  well  furnished  with  bearers ;  for  without  this  precaution 
of  shortening  the  shoots,  many  of  them  are  apt  to  run  up,  producing 
laterals  only,  mostly  towards  the  upper  part,  leaving  the  bottom 
naked,  whereby  the  tree  in  time  becomes  devoid  of  bearing  shoots 
below,  so  that  the  shortening  should  be  performed,  more  or  less,  ac- 
cording to  their  strength,  and  that  of  the  tree  in  general.  Though 
with  standard  trees  of  these  kinds,  shortening  the  shoots  is  not  neces- 
sary, yet  when  trained  to  walls  or  espaliers,  it  certainly  is,  for  the 
reasons  above  assigned. 

For  instance,  if  a  t^e  is  weak,  or  but  a  moderate  shooter,  gene- 
rally leaving  the  shoots  about  five  or  six  inches  apart,  for  training  in 
nearly  at  that  distance,  let  them  be  shortened  according  to  their 
strength ;  some  of  the  weaker  shoots  to  five,  six,  or  eight  inches ; 
others  of  stronger  growth  to  about  ten  or  twelve,  to  fifteen  or  eighteen 


42  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

inches  long ;  for  the  shortening  should  always  be  performed,  more 
or  less,  according  to  the  different  shoots,  and,  in  some  degree,  ac- 
cording as  the  blossom-buds  appear  situated  higher  or  lower  on  the 
respective  shoots ;  never  shorten  below  all  the  said  buds,  in  those 
shoots  designed  principally  for  bearing. 

When  a  tree  is  in  a  moderate  good  condition,  neither  very  vigorous 
nor  weakly,  but  a  middling  strong  shooter,  the  shoots  may  be  left 
nearly  about  three  to  four  or  five  inches  asunder,  and  should  be 
shortened  rather  less  in  proportion  than  the  foregoing,  but  agreeable 
to  the  same  rules  in  shoots  of  different  growths ;  pruning  some  to 
about  eight,  ten,  or  twelve  inches,  others  to  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches 
long,  or  more,  according  to  their  strength  and  situation  in  different 
parts  of  the  tree,  as  well  as  in  some  cases  the  apparent  situation  of 
the  blossom-buds,  in  being  placed  higher  or  lower  on  the  respective 
shoots  selected  for  bearers,  as  before  observed. 

But  when  any  trees  are  of  very  vigorous  growth  in  their  general 
shoots,  they  must  be  shortened  but  moderately ;  or  some  shoots  very 
little,  in  which  some  of  the  less  vigorous  may  be  cut  to  about  twelve 
or  fifteen  inches ;  but  in  stronger  shoots  prune  off  only  about  one- 
third  or  fourth  of  their  length,  or  some  of  the  most  luxuriant  left 
mostly  at  their  full  length ;  for  if  the  strong  shoots  of  a  generally 
vigorous  tree  were  to  be  much  shortened,  it  would  occasion  their 
shooting  still  more  luxuriantly  to  rampant  unfruitful  wood ;  there- 
fore the  vjgorous  shoots  should  be  very  moderately  shortened;  and 
where  they  are  general  in  a  tree,  it  is  advisable  both  to  leave  them 
closer  and  of  much  greater  length  than  the  shoots  in  moderate  grow- 
ing trees,  that  the  exuberance  of  sap  may  be  expended  in  the  larger 
extent  and  expansion  of  wood,  and  the  tree  thereby  in  time  become 
a  more  moderate  shooter  and  a  good  bearer.* 

Observe,  however,  in  shortening  the  shoots  in  general,  both  in 
trees  of  moderate,  middling,  and  strong  growth,  that  in  those  shoots 
adapted  for  principal  bearers  the  ensuing  season,  you  should  be  careful 
not  to  cut  away  too  low,  or  below  all  or  most  of  the  blossom-buds,  or 
parts  where  they  are  expected  to  advance,  being  generally  distin- 
guishable from  the  leaf  or  shoot-buds  by  their  round,  plump,  swelling 
appearance,  the  others  being  oblong,  narrow,  and  fiattish ;  and  there- 
fore should  give  proper  attention  to  shorten  accordingly  in  the  shoots 
were  the  fruit-buds  are  apparent. 

Likewise  observe,  that  in  shortening  the  bearing  shoots  or  others 
of  those  trees,  they  should  generally,  where  practicable,  be  cut  to  an 
eye  or  wood-but  that  is  likely  to  produce  a  shoot  for  a  leader  the 
ensuing  season ;  the  shoot-bud  eyes  being  distinguishable  from  the 
fruit  or  blossom-buds  by  their  longer,  flattish  form ;  the  others  being 
roundish,  swelling,  and  turgid,  or  may  also,  occasionally,  prune  to 
an  eye  having  one  or  two  blossom-buds,  as  frequently,  from  the  same 
eye,  shoot-buds  are  also  formed  on  one  side  of  the  single  or  between 
the  two  twin  blossom-buds  aforesaid,  and  from  which  a  good  leading 

*  If  all  superfluous  shoots  "be  rnbbed  out  during  the  summer,  this  exu- 
berance of  sap  will  be  prevented,  and  the  flow  equalized  over  the  whole 
tree. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  43 

shoot  will  be  most  likely  produced,  which  is  necessary  to  the  welfare 
of  the  fruit ;  for  where  a  leading  shoot  is  produced  at  or  near  the 
extremity  of  a  bearing  branch,  it  draws  nourishment  to  the  fruit 
more  effectually. 

After  having  pruned  one  tree,  let  it  be  directly  nailed  or  bound  as 
you  go  on,  observing  to  lay  in  the  branches  and  shoots  horizontally, 
perfectly  straight,  and  parallel  to  each  other  at  the  above  mentioned 
distances,  nailing  them  all  close  to  the  wall,  or  tying  them  to  the 
trellis  in  a  neat  manner. 


PRUNE  GOOSEBERRY  AND  CURRANT-TREES. 

Gooseberries  and  currants  bear  both  on  the  young  one  or  two 
years'  wood,  and  upon  the  several  years'  branches,  generally  upon 
small  spurs  rising  naturally  all  along  the  sides ;  and  in  each  winter- 
pruning  it  will  be  required  to  cut  out  any  casual  worn-out,  decayed, 
and  very  irregular  branches,  and  a  proportionate  supply  of  last  sum- 
mer's young  shoots  retained,  and  the  rest  pruned  out. 

In  pruning  gooseberries  let  them  be  always  kept  thin  of  branches, 
and  these  not  permitted  to  grow  ramblingly  across  one  another,  but 
all  pruned  to  some  regular  order,  so  as  the  main  bearers,  or  general 
branches  and  shoots,  stand  six  or  eight  inches  distant  at  the  ex- 
tremities ;  and  generally  either  keep  the  middle  somewhat  hollow,  or 
if  permitted  to  run  up  full  in  the  heart,  keep  it  thin  of  branches,  as 
above  advised ;  so  that  you  will  now  prune  out  any  irregularities,  &c., 
such  as  casual  crowding  cross-placed  wood,  and  any  worn-out  or 
naked  old  branches  retaining  young  shoots,  where  necessary  to  sup- 
ply their  place ;  and  cut  out  all  the  superabundant  lateral  shoots  of 
last  summer,  close  to  the  old  wood,  only  retaining  here  and  there  a 
good  one  in  vacancies,  or  occasionally  towards  the  lower  parts,  to  be 
advancing  to  a  proper  state  to  supply  the  place  of  casual  worn-out 
bearers;  and  generally  leave,  where  practicable,  a  terminating  or 
leading  shoot  to  each  main  branch,  either  such  as  is  placed  naturally 
at  or  near  the  end  of  the  branch ;  or,  occasionally,  where  any  branch 
is  too  long  or  rambling,  prune  it  down  to  some  convenient  lateral 
shoot,  &c.,  to  remain  for  a  terminal  leader ;  and,  in  both  cases,  gene- 
rally leave  but  one  terminal  to  each  branch ;  and  all  those  shoots 
now  retained,  both  lateral  and  terminal,  should  either  be  mostly  left 
entire,  and  only  shorten  long  stragglers,  and  very  bending  and  re- 
clining growths  occasionally ;  or  at  least  by  no  means  shorten  the 
shoots  of  these  trees  too  much,  for  by  cutting  them  very  short,  they 
are  made  to  produce  a  deal  of  wood  and  but  small  fruit ;  and  being 
so  full  of  wood  as  to  exclude  the  sun  and  free  air  in  summer,  the 
fruit  cannot  ripen  well ;  and  it  likewise  renders  it  troublesome  to  get 
at  the  fruit  when  fit  to  gather.  Never  clip  the  trees  with  garden 
shears,  as  is  the  practice  of  some  ignorant  persons. 

Currant  bushes  should  likewise  be  kept  thin  and  regular,  not  suf- 
fering the  branches  to  run  promiscuously  across  each  other ;  for 
when  suffered  to  grow  so  irregular  and  crowding  they  produce  but 
small  fruit ;  and  the  great  thicket  of  branches  excluding  the  essen- 
tial benefit  of  the  sun,  the  berries  will  not  ripen  freely  and  regular, 


44  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

with  a  good  flavor;  observing  therefore  to  keep  the  general  branches 
thin,  about  six  or  eight  inches  asunder,  in  which,  if  any  are  too 
crowded  or  over  abundant,  prune  out  the  most  irregular ;  also  any 
cross-placed  branches,  and  casual  worn-out  old  bearers,  together  with 
all  the  irregular-placed  and  superabundant  young  shoots  of  last 
summer,  preserving  only  occasional  supplies  of  the  most  regular  ones 
in  vacancies,  and  a  leading  one  at  the  termination  of  each  branch, 
agreeable  to  the  rules  exhibited  above  in  pruning  the  gooseberry 
bushes;  and  the  general  upper  shoots  may  be  mostly  shortened  more 
or  less  where  required  to  keep  the  head  to  a  moderate  extent,  and  a 
compact  handsome  growth. 

Observe  in  pruning  young  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes,  let  those 
designed  for  standards  be  pruned  to  a  clean  single  stem,  eight,  ten, 
or  twelve  inches;  and  being  careful  to  retain  a  requisite  supply  of 
the  best  young  shoots  properly  situated  '  above,  to  form  the  head 
accordingly,  cut  out  the  irregular  and  ill-placed ;  and  the  retained 
proper  shoots  may  in  some  be  moderately  shortened,  especially  such 
as  run  away  straggling  from  the  rest ;  and  any  proper  shoots  ad- 
vancing below  may  be  permitted  to  remain  entire  till  advanced  equal 
with  the  others  above,  &c.,  that  the  whole  may  come  on  as  equally 
as  possible  to  form  a  regular  head. 

Currants  and  gooseberries  trained  against  walls,  palings,  trellises, 
&c.,  should  also  have  a  necessary  pruning  and  regulation  in  the  gene- 
ral branches,  or  as  may  be  required,  cutting  out  the  superabundant 
and  irregular-placed  shoots  of  last  summer,  or  any  casual  too  crowd- 
ing and  disorderly  growing  older  branches,  or  such  as  appear  unfruit- 
ful, or  any  of  a  worn-out  or  decayed  state,  and  all  dead  wood; 
retaining  young  shoots  advancing  from  below,  and  in  the  most  va- 
cant parts,  shortened  more  or  less,  or  left  entire,  according  to  room 
for  extending  them;  and  train  the  general  branches,  &c.,  three  or 
four  to  five  or  six  inches  distant.  For  more  particulars,  see  Oc- 
tober. 


FIG-TREES. 

Fig-tree  pruning  is  advised  to  be  deferred  till  March  or  April, 
where  see  the  method  explained. 

PROTECTING  THE  ROOTS  OF  NEW-PLANTED  TREES. 

If  the  weather  should  now  prove  severe,  it  will  be  proper  to  pro- 
tect the  roots  of  new-planted  fruit-trees  from  being  hurt  by  the  frost, 
by  laying  mulch,  or  long  dung  litter,  on  the  surface  of  the  ground ; 
particularly  the  choicest  of  the  stone-fruit  kinds — as  peaches,  necta- 
rines, apricots,  and  any  principal  sorts  of  cherries  and  plums. 

RASPBERRIES. 

If  you  have  neglected  to  afford  the  protection  directed  in  Novem- 
ber to  your  Antwerp  Raspberries,  you  should  no  longer  omit  it ; 
especially  in  those  parts  of  the  Union  where  severe  winter  frosts 


JAN.] 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


45 


prevail.  As  to  pruning  and  planting  the  various  kinds,  when  not 
done  in  October  or  November,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  this  business 
till  the  latter  end  of  February,  or  beginning  of  March;  except  in 
such  of  the  States  as  the  severity  of  the  frost  does  not  interrupt  the 
tillage  of  the  ground  during  winter ;  in  which  you  can  perform  this 
business  now  with  safety,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  Oc- 
tober. 


PRUNING   THE   RASPBERRY.         •*'•£*?' 

The  accompanying  figures  represent  the  wood  of  the  preceding 
summer's  growth. 

The  portion  with  buds,  marked  a  a,  is  from  the  upper  part  of 
the  shoot;  that  with  buds, 

marked  b  b,  is  taken  from  Fig.  7. 

the  lower  part  of  the  shoot 
or  cane.  The  buds  a  a, 
can  scarcely  be  termed 
blossom-buds,  inasmuch  as 
they  do  not  contain  the 
rudiments  of  flowers  like 
the  blossom-buds  of  larger 
fruit ;  but  each  of  them 
possesses  the  power  of  pro- 
ducing a  branchlet,  and  on 
this  blossom-buds  are  form- 
ed. The  buds  b  b,  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  cane,  do 
not  generally  push  unless 
the  upper  have  been  cut 
away,  and  then  the  lower 
are  stimulated,  producing, 
however,  shoots  and  fruit 
later  in  the  season  than 
those  obtained  from  the 
buds  a  a.  Advantage  has 
been  sometimes  taken  of 
this,  to  procure  a  succes- 
sion of  fruit  in  autumn. 
Raspberry  shoots,  or  canes, 
growing  up  in  one  summer, 
and  producing  fruit  in  the 
next,  and  then  dying  to  the 
ground,  a  succession  hav- 
ing, meantime,  sprung  up, 

the  pruning  usually  consists  in  the  obvious  operation  of  cutting 
away  all  the  dead  wood — that  which  has  borne  fruit;  and,  in  the 
shortening  that  which  is  alive,  thinning  the  canes  so  as  to  leave 
three,  four,  five,  or  six,  from  a  plant,  according  to  its  strength. 

An  improvement  may,  however,  be  effected  on  this  general  mode. 
As  the  finest  and  best  of  these  fruits  are,  in  all  cases,  the  produce  of 


46  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

strong  and  well-ripened  canes,  it  becomes  necessary  that  the  shoots 
should  have  every  advantage  afforded  them.  This  may  readily  be 
effected  by  causing  all  the  former  year's  canes  to  be  cut  down  to  the 
ground  as  soon  as  they  have  produced  their  crop,  instead  of  allowing 
them  to  stand  till  the  winter  or  spring;  this  removes  an  unnecessary 
incumbrance,  and,  at  a  season  when  sun  and  air  are  of  infinite  im- 
portance to  the  young  canes,  and,  consequently,  to  the  succeeding 
crop. 

In  autumn,  or  the  early  part  of  winter,  the  young  canes  should  be 
shortened  to  about  four-fifths  of  their  original  height,  or  to  the  place 
where  the  growth  of  the  upper  part  of  the  shoot  forms  a  sort  of  bend- 
ing or  twisting.  They  may  then  be  either  tied  to  stakes  or  arched, 
by  tying  their  tips  to  those  of  the  adjoining  plant.  When  a  late 
succession  of  fruit  is  desired,  some  plants  may  have  all  their  shoots 
cut  back  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground. 

FORCING  EARLY    STRAWBERRIES. 

Now  is  a  proper  time,  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  to  begin 
to  make  a  hot-bed  to  raise  a  few  early  strawberries;  those  which  are 
planted  now  in  a  hot-bed  will  produce  fruit  fit  to  gather  in  March  or 
April. 

About  the  middle  or  end  of  this  month,  provide  for  that  purpose 
as  much  new  horse-dung  as  will  make  a  hot-bed  about  four  feet  high, 
for  one  or  more  three-light  frames. 

Let  the  dung  be  thrown  in  a  heap,  and  let  it  lie  about  eight  or 
ten  days :  in  that  time  it  will  be  in  good  condition  to  make  the  hot- 
bed. 

But  in  this  business,  a  tan-bark  hot-bed,  made  in  a  bark-pit,  de- 
fended with  a  proper  frame  and  glasses,  would  generally  be  more 
successful  in  fruiting  these  plants  early. 

But,  previous  to  this,  there  should  be  a  proper  quantity  of  straw- 
berry-plants potted,  ready  to  place  on  the  said  hot-bed,  as  directed  in 
September. 

Having,  however,  prepared  the  dung  for  the  hot-bed,  make  it  for 
one  or  more  frames,  about  three  feet  high,  and  directly  set  on  the 
frame  and  lights,  to  protect  it  from  wet,  and  draw  up  the  heat  sooner  j 
and  when  the  violent  heat  is  over,  lay  therein  either  some  dry  light 
earth,  or  some  waste  tanner's  bark  of  a  decayed  bark-bed,  four  or  five 
inches  thick ;  then  bring  in  the  plants  and  plunge  the  pots  into  the 
earth  or  tan,  up  to  the  rims,  and  close  together  as  can  be,  filling  up 
also  all  the  interstices  between  with  earth,  &c. 

When  all  the  pots  are  plunged,  put  on  the  glasses,  and  keep  them 
close  till  the  steam  arises  in  the  bed,  when  it  will  be  necessary  to 
raise  them  a  little  behind,  to  let  the  steam  pass  off. 

When  the  plants  begin  to  push,  let  them  have  air  at  all  opportu- 
nities, when  the  weather  is  favorable;  for  if  kept  too  close,  they  will 
draw  up  weak,  and  not  blossom  well,  and  the  blossoms  would  drop 
off,  without  being  succeeded  by  fruit :  you  should  frequently  refresh 
them  with  a  little  water,  and  cover  the  glasses  every  night  with 
mats,  and  support  the  heat  of  the  bed  by  linings  of  hot  dung. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

N.  B.  In  forcing  strawberries,  the  plants  may  be  taken  up  out  of 
the  natural  ground  with  balls  of  earth,  if  not  prevented  by  too  hard 
a  frost,  and  placed  immediately  in  the  earth  of  the  hot-bed  without 
potting  them.  However,  when  it  is  intended  to  force  strawberries, 
either  in  a  common  hot-bed,  or  in  a  hot-house,  it  would  be  the  best 
method  to  plant  some  bearing  plants  in  pots,  in  September  or  Oc- 
tober, and  so  place  the  pots  close  together  in  a  garden  frame,  till  the 
time  they  are  to  be  placed  in  the  hot-bed. 

But  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  a  pine-apple  stove,  or  any 
kind  of  fruit  forcing-house  or  hot-wall,  &c.,  may  raise  plenty  of  early 
strawberries  in  great  perfection,  with  but  very  little  trouble :  having 
some  bearing  plants  ready  in  pots,  place  them  in  the  hot-house,  any- 
where near  the  glasses,  giving  frequent  light  waterings;  they  will 
fruit  early  in  great  abundance. 

FORCING-FRAMES. 

The  great  convenience  of  forcing-frames,  either  to  force  fruits  or 
flowers  into  early  perfection,  or  to  preserve  during  winter,  various 
kinds  of  exotic  plants,  may  induce  persons  of  taste  to  go  to  the  ex- 
pense of  erecting  such ;  to  whom  the  following  descriptions  may  not 
be  uninteresting. 

A  forcing-frame  is  a  sort  of  glass  case,  or  light  building,  fronted 
with  glass-frames,  in  which  to  force  flowers  and  fruits  to  early  per- 
fection, by  aid  of  artificial  heat,  either  of  dung,  tanner's  bark,  or 
actual  fire. 

The  general  acceptation  or  meaning  of  forcing-frame  is,  a  fixed 
erection  full  to  the  south  sun ;  the  length  may  be  from  ten  to  fifty 
or  one  hundred  feet ;  the  width  from  five  to  fifteen,  and  from  five  to 
ten  feet  high  ;  having  an  upright  back  wall,  of  wood  or  brick ;  and 
a  front  of  glass  work,  made  sometimes  in  one  continual  range  of 
slope,  from  near  the  ground  in  front  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall ;  and 
sometimes  with  upright  glass  work,  head  high,  ranging  immediately 
along  the  front,  and  from  the  top  of  which  a  glass  roof  is  carried  to 
the  top  of  the  back  or  main  wall;  either  of  which  may  be  for  general 
use,  for  the  reception  of  various  sorts  of  flower-plants,  small  flowering 
shrubs,  esculents,  and  dwarf  fruit-trees,  &c.,  occasionally,  to  force 
into  bloom  or  fruit  in  winter,  or  early  in  spring  and  summer ;  whereby 
many  sorts  of  the  more  curious  flowers  and  fruits  may  be  obtained 
some  months  before  their  natural  season,  which  will  be  a  great  curi- 
osity, and  which  is  effected  as  aforesaid,  by  aid  of  dung,  bark  or  fire 
heat;  the  first  (dung  heat),  both  by  applying  the  dung  principally 
against  the  outside  of  the  back  wall,  and  by  forming  it  into  a  bed 
internally ;  the  second  (bark  heat),  by  forming  it  into  a  bed,  in  a  pit 
within  side :  and  the  third  (fire  heat),  by  having  several  returns  of 
flues  against  the  inside  of  the  back  wall,  and  that  of  the  front  and 
both  ends,  for  the  heat  to  pass  along ;  each  of  which  are  hereafter 
described ;  for  these  kind  of  frames  are  of  different  construction,  ac- 
cording to  the  sorts  of  plants  chiefly  intended  to  be  forced ;  and  the 
materials  of  heat,  as  dung,  bark,  or  fuel,  most  convenient  to  be  ob- 


48  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAX. 

tained  for  forcing  them ;  so  that  the  construction  of  each  kind  of 
frame  is  separately  explained. 

These  frames  may  be  employed  to  advantage  in  the  vicinity  of 
large  towns  for  forcing  various  plants  early  for  market,  by  the  as- 
sistance of  which  you  will  have  for  sale,  in  February,  March  and 
April,  various  sorts  of  flowers,  fruits  and  esculents  that  would  not  in. 
their  natural  state  of  growth  have  appeared  till  May,  June,  or  July. 

But,  for  private  use,  where  there  is  a  roomy  pine-apple  stove,  it 
may  also  be  used,  occasionally,  for  forcing  many  sorts  of  plants, 
flowers,  and  some  sorts  of  fruits,  with  equal  success,  sufficient  for  the 
supply  of  a  family. 

However,  where  a  considerable  supply. is  required,  a  forcing-frame, 
distinct  from  the  pine-stove,  would  be  more  convenient. 

In  either  of  these  departments  may  be  introduced  for  forcing,  pots 
of  strawberries,  kidney-beans,  roses,  honeysuckles,  jasmines,  and  any 
other  flowering  shrubs ;  likewise  carnations,  pinks,  sweetwilliams, 
wall- flowers,  stock-gilliflowers,  narcissuses,  jonquils  and  early  dwarf 
tulips,  and  any  other  desirable  flower-plants  or  roots  that  may  be 
required  early  for  curiosity;  also  several  kinds  of  curious  annuals, 
and  other  rare  plants.  You  may  likewise  have  several  sorts  of  dwarf 
fruit  trees,  as  early  May  and  May-duke  cherries,  peaches,  nectarines, 
apricots,  figs,  grapes,  gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  &c. 

The  general  construction  of  each  sort  of  these  frames  is  explained 
under  separate  heads,  according  to  the  materials  of  heat  used  in 
forcing  them,  viz :  by  dung-heat,  bark-bed  heat,  and  by  fire-heat. 

By  Dung  heat. — This  is  not  only  the  most  simple  and  cheapest 
kind  of  forci-ng-frame  in  its  construction,  but  also  considerably  the 
cheapest  in  working,  with  respect  to  the  article  heat,  as  it  may  be 
forced  effectually  by  substantial  linings  of  hot  dung  against  the  back 
and  ends. 

This  frame  is  formed  with  an  upright  back  and  ends  of  pine  plank- 
ing, and  a  sloping  front  of  movable  glass-lights ;  the  length  may  be 
ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  feet,  or  more;  the  width  from  three  to  five, 
and  five  or  six  high  :  the  frame-work  should  be  of  two  inch  pine 
planking,  tongued,  and  closely  joined,  that  no  steam  from  the  dung 
may  penetrate  into  the  frame,  raised  five,  six,  or  seven  feet  high 
behind,  and  but  ten  or  twelve  inches  high  in  front,  raising  both  ends 
answerable  to  the  front  and  back;  the  glass-work  to  range  from  the 
upright  in  front,  sloping  upward  towards  the  back  wall  to  about  a 
foot  width  at  top,  there  resting  the  ends  upon  proper  framework  of 
wood;  and  bars  or  bearers,  three  inches  in  width,  must  range  sloping 
from  the  back  to  front,  for  the  support  of  the  lights,  as  in  common 
hot-bed  frames,  and  the  top  -of  all  to  be  boarded  wind  and  water 
tight ;  within  side  may  be  two  or  three  ranges  of  narrow  shelves 
along  the  back  and  ends  for  pots  of  small  plants,  and  the  bottom 
levelled  on  which  to  place  pots  of  larger  kinds ;  or  you  may  have 
shelves  rising  one  behind  another,  quite  from  the  front  half  way  up 
the  back ;  so  may  place  the  lowest  plants  in  front,  the  others  in  order 
behind  them,  rising  gradually  to  the  tallest  in  the  back  row. 
.  From  the  above  general  sketch  you  will  easily  form  an  idea  of  the 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  49 

proper  construction  of  a  dung-heat  forcing-frame,  which  you  may  im- 
prove as  you  shall  see  convenient. 

This  kind  of  frame  may  be  used  with  good  success  where  dung  is 
plenty,  and  easily  obtained;  particularly  for  forcing  roses  or  any 
other  small  flowering  plants,  whose  flowers  have  merit  in  beauty  or 
fragrance ;  you  may  also  try  pots  of  dwarf  cherries,  peaches,  &c. ; 
also  pots  of  gooseberries,  currants,  and  strawberries,  carnations,  pinks, 
and  the  like;  having  all  the  sorts  in  pots  separately,  and  in  which 
they  are  to  be  placed  in  the  frame. 

The  season  to  begin  to  work  this  frame  is  January  and  February, 
and  may  be  continued  occasionally  till  May;  but  for  any  kind  of 
fruit-trees,  the  beginning  of  February  is  time  enough,  though  those 
plants  of  any  kind  that  are  designed  to  be  forced  may  be  placed  in 
the  frame  a  month  or  two  before  forcing  time,  to  be  occasionally  pro- 
tected with  the  glasses  in  hard  frosts;  but  at  other  times  let  them 
enjoy  the  full  air  till  you  begin  forcing. 

The  method  of  working  this  frame  is  thus :  after  having  placed 
the  pots  of  plants  in  regular  order,  the  tallest  behind,  and  the  lowest 
in  front,  &c.,  then  put  on  the  lights,  and  having  sufficient  quantity 
of  fresh  stable-dung,  full  of  heat,  prepared  as  for  common  dung  hot- 
beds, let  it  be  piled  up  close  against  the  outside  of  the  back  and  ends 
a  yard  wide  at  bottom,  drawing  it  gradually  into  a  foot  width  at  the 
top  of  the  frame,  finishing  it  somewhat  sloping,  to  throw  off  wet; 
observing,  that  according  as  the  dung  settles  or  sinks  down,  a  fresh 
supply  must  be  added  at  the  top  to  maintain  the  lining  to  the  full 
height  of  the  frame. 

The  lining  will  effectually  throw  in  a  fine  growing  heat,  and  soon 
set  all  the  plants  in  motion;  observing  to  give  air  in  the  middle  of 
fine  days  by  sliding  one  or  more  of  the  lights  a  little  down,  especially 
when  the  plants  begin  to  push ;  give  also  moderate  watering  occa- 
sionally in  mild  sunny  weather,  and  cover  the  glasses  in  cold  nights 
with  mats. 

In  three  or  four  weeks,  when  the  heat  begins  to  decrease  consider- 
ably, it  must  be  renewed,  either  by  entire  fresh  dung,  or  if  new 
dung  is  scarce,  by  shaking  up  the  old,  taking  the  worst  away,  and 
mix  the  remainder  with  a  due  quantity  of  new,  working  the  whole 
again  in  a  pile  close  againsl  the  back  and  ends  as  before,  which 
work  must  be  repeated  every  three  weeks  or  month,  or  as  often  as 
you  shall  see  occasion,  for  the  heat  must  be  constantly  preserved  to 
a  regular  brisk  temperature. 

A  frame  of  the  above  construction  may  be  appropriated  entirely 
for  fruit-trees,  planting  them  in  a  border  prepared  within  the  frame 
against  the  back  part,  and  trained  in  the  manner  of  wall-trees  to  a 
trellis,  ranged  five  or  six  inches  from  the  back  erection,  in  which 
may  be  planted  early  dwarf  cherries,  peaches,  nectarines,  apricots, 
grapes,  figs,  currants,  &c.,  so  may  be  worked  by  dung-heat  against 
the  back  of  the  frame  as  above  directed;  beginning  in  February, 
and  continuing  the  glasses  on,  as  well  as  support  the  dung-heat  until 
May,  and  there  is  no  doubt,  with  good  management,  but  that  the  dif- 
ferent sorts  of  fruit  may  be  brought  to  perfection  early. 

But  a  dung-heat  forcing-frame  may  be  constructed  of  more  capa- 


50  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

cious  dimensions,  to  admit  of  making  a  substantial  hot-bed  of  dung 
internally,  both  to  produce  an  increased  degree  of  heat,  and  wherein 
to  plunge  pots  of  several  sorts  of  flowering  and  esculent  plants  to 
bring  them  forward  in  growth,  being  assisted  also  with  a  lining  of 
hot  dung  applied  to  the  exterior  of  the  back  part  of  the  frame,  as 
explained  in  the  foregoing;  and  for  the  internal  hot-bed  should  form 
a  bottom  pit  of  proper  width,  length,  and  depth,  making  the  bed 
therein  a  yard  depth  of  good  hot  dung,  covering  the  top  with  light 
dry  earth,  or  old  or  new  tan-bark,  six  or  eight  inches  thick,  in  which 
to  plunge  the  pots  of  flowers,  or  those  of  early  esculents,  such  as 
kidney-beans,  peas,  strawberries,  salading,  &c. 

JBark-bed  heat. — This  kind  of  forcing- frame,  or  rather  forcing- 
house,  is  worked  by  aid  of  a  tanner's  bark  hot-bed,  formed  in  a  pit 
withiuside  the  whole  length. 

This  frame  may  be  formed  either  of  wood  or  brick-work,  and 
fronted,  &c.,  with  sashes  of  glass  like  the  former ;  the  length  may  be 
ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  feet,  or  more,  eight  or  ten  wide,  and  six  or 
eight  high;  and  may  be  constructed  either  nearly  like  the  dung- 
heat  frame,  six  or  eight  feet  behind,  and  one  in  front,  the  ends  con- 
formable, and  sloping  frames  of  glass-work  raised  from  the  front, 
sloping  either  quite  to  the  top  of  the  backfall,  or  to  incline  only 
about  one-half  towards  that  part,  meeting  a  covered  roof  at  top,  half 
way,  which  should  be  raised  high  enough  in  front  to  throw  the  water 
off  behind,  as  well  as  to  admit  as  much  sun  as  possible  to  every  part 
of  the  frame,  or  it  may  be  constructed  with  an  upright  front  of  glass, 
head  high,  and  a  sloping  roof  of  glass-work,  ranging  from  the  up- 
right front  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall,  which  is  rather  the  most 
eligible  form,  both  for  convenience  and  benefit  of  the  plants ;  either 
of  which  constructions  may  be  erected  detached,  or  against  a  south 
wall  already  built,  which  will  serve  for  the  back  and  save  some  ex- 
pense; the  ends  may  either  be  of  wood  or  brick,  and  the  glass-work 
in  every  part  should  be  made  to  move  on  and  off,  as  well  'as  to  slide 
backward  and  forward  to  give  air,  and  to  do  other  necessary  work ; 
and  at  one  end,  near  the  back  wall,  may  be  a  door  to  enter  occasion- 
ally, and  withinside  must  be  a  pit  for  the  bark-bed  three  feet  deep, 
part  sunk,  and  the  greater  part  raised,  continued  the  whole  length 
and  width,  except  about  a  foot  and  a  half  alley  to  go  in  to  perform 
the  necessary  culture,  as  well  as  to  view  and  gather  the  produce  of 
the  different  plants. 

The  pit  within  is  to  be  filled  with  new  tan  any  time  in  winter  or 
spring  you  intend  to  begin  forcing,  though  January  is  soon  enough, 
and  the  beginning  of  February  is  not  too  late  ;  the  bark  will  support 
a  growing  heat  three  months,  and  if  then  stirred  up  to  the  bottom, 
will  renew  its  heat,  and  continue  it  two  months  longer. 

In  this  frame  may  plunge  in  the  bark-bed  pots  of  roses,  or  any 
other  choice  flowering  shrubs  you  would  force  into  an  early  bloom  ; 
likewise  may  place  pots  of  strawberries  towards  the  front  and  top 
glasses ;  and  pots  of  kidney  beans  and  early  dwarf  peas  may  be 
placed  in  any  part  of  the  frame ;  also  pots  of  dwarf  fruit-trees,  before 
mentioned,  pots  of  double  pinks,  carnations,  and  any  other  moderate 
growing  fibrous-rooted  perennials,  as  well  as  any  sorts  of  bulbous  or 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  51 

tuberous-rooted  flowers,  as  narcissuses,  jonquils,  tulips,  anemones, 
ranunculuses,  hyacinths,  and  various  other  sorts. 

The  heat  of  the  bark-bed  will  effectually  warm  the  earth  and  in- 
ternal air  sufficiently  to  forward  any  sorts  of  hardy  flowers  and  fruits 
to  perfection  at  an  early  season  ;  observing,  that  although  they  do 
not  always  flower  and  fruit  so  abundantly  as  in  the  full  ground,  yet, 
if  there  are  but  a  few  of  any  sort,  a  month  or  two  before  their 
natural  season,  they,  if  for  sale,  will  sufficiently  pay ;  and  if  for  pri- 
vate use,  they  will  always  be  acceptable  as  a  rarity  and  curiosity  in 
the  family. 

Fresh  air  must  be  admitted  in  fine  sunny  days  at  all  opportunities, 
by  sliding  some  of  the  glasses  more  or  less  open,  keeping  them  close 
at  night;  and  in  very  severe  weather,  the  glasses  must  be  covered 
with  mats,  or  closed  with  sliding  shutters  made  for  that  purpose,  par- 
ticularly at  night,  which  trouble  might  be  avoided  if  there  was  a  fire- 
flue,  by  which  heat  could  be  introduced  to  counteract  the  extreme 
rigor  of  the  frost,  when  necessity  required. 

When  the  heat  of  the  bark  declines  considerably,  do  not  omit 
forking  it  over  to  the  bottom,  which  will  revive  the  decaying  heat  six 
or  eight  weeks  longer. 

A  bark-heat  forcing-frame,  nearly  of  the  above  dimensions,  might 
be  contrived  entirely  for  forcing  fruit-trees,  having  a  border  within- 
side  along  the  back  wall,  three  or  four  feet  wide  ;  there  plant  young 
bearing  dwarf  fruit-trees  of  any  sorts  before  mentioned,  at  six  or  eight 
feet  distance,  in  the  manner  of  wall  or  espalier  trees,  training  them 
also  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  respective  sorts  in  their 
natural  state  of  growth.  The  bark-pit  should  here  be  almost  half 
sunk ;  and  in  the  beginning  of  February  fill  the  pit  with  new  tan- 
bark,  which  will  soon  set  the  trees  into  bloom,  and  will  ripen  their 
fruit  early. 

But  the  most  eligible  general  forcing-frame  for  various  sorts  of 
plants,  is  one  of  the  above  mentioned  construction,  having  also  flues 
for  fire-heat ;  the  walls  must  be  of  brick-work,  having  two  or  three 
returns  of  flues  formed  of  the  same  materials,  running  the  whole 
length  of  the  back  wall  within,  and  one  or  two  along  the  front  and 
ends,  by  which  to  convey  fire-heat  occasionally  in  severe  frosts,  cold 
nights,  and  in  all  very  cold  and  intemperate  weather,  which  will  be 
a  great  improvement  in  very  early  forcing,  so  that  this  kind  of  frame 
will  be  nearly  of  the  plan  of  a  stove  or  hot-house. 

In  default,  however,  of  any  of  the  above  kinds  of  bark-heat 
forcing-frames,  one  might  be  effected  by  a  common  bark-pit,  made  in 
any  dry  sheltered  situation,  with  a  brick  wall,  to  any  convenient  size, 
and  covered  with  glass  lights.  This  pit  is  to  be  principally  above 
ground  and  filled  with  good  fresh  tan  to  the  depth  of  four  feet,  in 
which  you  may  plunge  pots  of  roses,  or  any  other  shrubs,  any  sort  of 
low  herbaceous  flowering  plants,  fibrous  or  bulbous  rooted;  kidney- 
beans,  strawberries,  &c. ;  observing,  however,  that  in  severe  frost,  the 
wall  of  this  pit  must  be  protected  by  hot  dung,  leaves  or  straw,"  in 
order  to  prevent  the  frost  penetrating  into  the  bed,  and  it  must  be 
carefully  covered  with  mats  at  night,  and  even  in  the  daytime  in  very 
severe  weather. 


52  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

By  Fire-heat. — This  kind  of  forcing-frame  is  worked  by  actual 
fire,  burned  in  a  furnace  behind,  at  one  end  or  middle,  from  thence 
communicating  the  heat  by  internal  flues  or  funnels,  running  the 
whole  length  of  the  back  wall  in  three  returns,  one  above  another, 
and  continued  in  a  flue  round  the  front,  and  the  frame  thus  con- 
structed is  often  employed  for  ripening  several  of  the  more  valuable 
fruit-trees  at  an  early  season,  or  for  forwarding  such  to  perfection 
which  do  not  ripen  freely  without  artificial  aid. 

This  frame  or  forcing-house,  must  be  formed  of  brick-work,  at 
least  the  back  or  main  wall,  for  the  convenience  of  having  fire  and 
flues,  and  the  whole  front,  &c.,  must  be  glass,  like  the  other  sorts ; 
the  length  may  be  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  or  more,  though  one  fire 
will  not  warm  more  than  that  length ;  the  width  may  be  from  five  or 
six  to  twelve  or  fifteen  feet,  and  height  eight  or  ten.  It  may  be  con- 
trived either  of  moderate  width  for  one  row  of  trees  only,  to  range 
against  the  back  wall,  or  may  be  capacious  enough  to  have  a  range  of 
trained  wall-trees  behind,  as  just  mentioned,  and  some  small  half 
standard,  ranging  also  from  the  back  to  the  front. 

If  it  is  therefore  intended  to  have  a  narrow  frame  for  only  a  row 
of  trained  trees  behind,  the  width  from  four  to  five  or  six  feet  is  suf- 
ficient, having  the  back  or  main  wall  formed  of  brick  or  stone,  as 
aforesaid,  eight  or  ten  feet  high,  with  several  flues  withinside,  re- 
turned over  each  other,  running  the  whole  length  of  the  wall ;  in  the 
front  must  be  a  low  wall  a  foot  high,  on  which  to  lay  a  plate  of  tim- 
ber, and  from  which  are  ranged  glass  frames  or  lights  in  one  con- 
tinued slope  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall,  there  received  into  proper 
framework ;  but  for  the  greater  convenience,  the  lights  may  be  in 
two  tiers  or  ranges,  an  under  and  upper  tier,  the  upper  range  made 
to  slide  up  and  down  over  the  others,  but  so  as  all  the  glass-work  can 
be  moved  away  occasionally,  to  admit  the  full  air  to  the  trees  after 
the  work  of  forcing ;  the  whole  bottom  space  within  this  frame  must 
be  of  good  loamy  earth,  or  any  good  garden  mould,  two  spades  deep, 
which  must  be  dug  or  trenched  in  the  common  way  j  then  plant  a 
range  of  trees  behind,  towards  the  wall,  and  two  or  three  yards 
asunder,  erecting  a  trellis  behind  them,  upon  which  to  train  the 
branches  as  against  a  wall  or  espalier ;  besides  these  trees,  there  may 
be  other  inferior  plants  set  in  the  border  or  in  pots,  in  front  of  the 
trees,  as  strawberries,  dwarf  kidney  beans,  dwarf  peas,  &c.,  dwarf 
roses  or  the  like,  that  will  not  rise  high  enough  to  shade  the  fruit- 
trees  in  the  back  range. 

A  frame  of  this  construction,  forty  feet  long,  may  be  worked  by 
one  fire ;  but  if  longer,  two  furnaces  for  fires  will  be  requisite.* 

But  to  have  a  more  capacious  frame  both  for  trained  trees  and  low 
standards,  it  may  be  of  any  length  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  or  more, 
but  must  be  ten  or  fifteen  feet  wide,  having  an  upright  back  wall  of 
brick  ten  feet  high,  with  flues  as  above  directed,  and  a  low  wall  in 

*  Hot  water  circulated  through  cast  iron  pipes  is  much  better  than  com- 
mon flues,  and  though  more  expensive  on  first  erection,  is  afterwards  most 
economical.  One  fire,  if  large  enough,  may  be  made  to  heat  several  large 
houses. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  53 

front  one  or  two  feet  high,  on  which  is  erected  upright  glass-work, 
four  or  five  feet  perpendicular ;  and  from  the  top  of  these,  a  sloping 
roof  of  glass  frame,  continued  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall,  supported 
upon  proper  bearers  three  feet  or  three  feet  six  inches  distance,  hav- 
ing the  top  glasses  in  two  ranges,  an  upper  and  under  range,  as  before 
advised,  both  of  which,  and  those  of  the  upright  in  front,  made  to 
slide  and  move  away  occasionally  :  in  this  frame  there  will  be  room 
to  walk  under  the  glass-work  in  any  part,  and  there  will  be  also  due 
room  for  the  trees,  both  .dwarfs  and  low  standards ;  and  then  having 
the  whole  ground  space  withinside  of  loamy  or  other  good  earth,  as 
in  the  other  frame,  you  may  plant  your  trees,  some  in  one  range 
against  the  back  wall,  as  peaches,  nectarines,  apricots,  grapes,  figs, 
&c.,  six  or  eight  feet  asunder,  erecting  a  trellis  for  training  them 
upon,  and  in  front  of  these  may  be  planted  rows  of  young  cherries, 
both  in  small  standards,  half  standards,  and  dwarfs ;  the  full  stand- 
ards to  have  about  five  feet  stems ;  each  sort,  both  trained  trees  and 
standards,  to  be  planted  when  about  from  three  to  four  or  five  years 
old,  as  soon  as  they  acquire  a  bearing  state,  with  regular  heads  of 
two  or  three  feet  extent  at  first  planting.  Having  procured  the  trees 
and  the  ground  ready  for  their  reception,  may  then  plant  one  range 
of  the  choicest  sorts  as  before  noticed,  next  the  back  wall  two  or 
three  yards  asunder,  the  others  in  rows  from  back  to  front,  at  six  or 
eight  feet  distance,  the  tallest  behind  and  the  lowest  in  front,  at  three 
or  four  feet  distance  in  each  row,  making  each  row  range  against  the 
intervals  of  the  trained  tree  behind ;  or  if  they  are  all  standards,  and 
half  standards,  there  will  be  more  room  for  several  sorts  of  smaller 
plants  under  them ;  and  as  their  branches  will  be  nearer  the  top 
glasses,  it  may  be  of  particular  advantage ;  and  in  the  intervals  may 
be  planted  some  low  currants,  gooseberries,  raspberries,  strawberries, 
dwarf  beans,  kidney  beans,  &c.  But  a  frame  of  these  dimensions  is 
sometimes  planted  entirely  with  standards,  more  particularly  cherries, 
as  being  more  moderate  shooters  and  soonest  arrive  to  a  bearing 
state,  so  as  to  bear  any  tolerable  quantity  of  fruit;  planting  them 
five  or  six  feet  distance  :  sometimes  standard  plums,  apricots, 
peaches,  and  nectarines  are  also  planted,  and  vines  to  train  up  under 
the  glasses. 

A  frame  of  these  dimensions,  twenty-five  feet  long,  may  be  worked 
by  one  fire ;  but  if  more  than  thirty  feet  in  length,  two  furnaces  for 
fires,  with  each  its  set  of  flues,  will  be  necessary. 

With  respect  to  the  age  of  trees  for  both  the  above  kinds  of  fire- 
heat  forcing-frames,  they  should  be  from  three  to  four  or  five  years 
old,  with  regular  heads  of  branches,  two  or  three  feet  extent,  and 
just  arrived  at  a  tolerable  bearing  state ;  no  very  vigorous  shooters 
must  be  admitted,  but  such  only  as  assume  a  moderate,  regular 
growth,  and  are  trained  in  the  nursery  until  they  have  acquired  a 
proper  size,  each  as  directed  under  its  respective  head,  whether  as 
wall  trees  or  standards;  they  are  to  be  transplanted  into  the  frame  in 
October  or  November  to  remain  for  forcing ;  but  should  be  permitted 
to  have  a  year  or  two's  growth  here  before  you  begin  forcing  them, 
that  they  may  be  firmly  rooted;  during  which  time  all  the  glasses 
should  be  entirely  away,  that  the  trees  may  have  the  full  air  till 


54  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

forcing  time  is  nearly  arrived  ;  or  may  occasionally  have  trained  bear- 
ing trees  of  small  sizes  in  pots,  which  is  the  best  for  this  speciality, 
if  they  have  been  in  good  growth  for  one  season  at  least,  and  so  re- 
moved in  their  said  pots  into  the  frame  at  the  proper  season  as  above. 

In  both  the  above  kinds  of  forcing-frames,  you  msfy  also  plant  some 
grape-vines  on  the  inside  of  the  front  glasses  in  the  full  ground,  and 
conduct  the  shoots  along  up  towards  the  glass-work  to  a  sort  of  slight 
trellis,  keeping  the  branches  quite  thin;  and  they  will  ripen  early 
fruit  in  great  perfection. 

The  season  for  beginning  to  make  the  fires  for  forcing  the  trees  in 
either  of  the  above  described  fire-heat  frames,  is  any  time  in  Janu- 
ary, though  about  the  middle  or  towards  the  latter  end  of  that  month, 
or  beginning  of  February,  is,  for  the  general  part,  rather  the  most 
successful  time  to  begin  the  general  forcing  to  have  a  good  crop ;  for 
if  the  trees  are  forced  very  early,  there  will  be  some  danger  of  their 
miscarrying ;  as,  if  they  should  come  into  blossom  when  severe  wea- 
ther prevails,  that  air  cannot  be  freely  admitted  at  intervals,  they 
seldom  set  any  tolerable  crop  of  fruit ;  more  particularly,  cherries, 
peaches,  nectarines  and  apricots ;  therefore,  by  beginning  to  make  the 
fires  about  the  time  above  directed,  the  trees  will  be  in  blossom  about 
the  middle  o{  February,  when  we  may  expect  some  fine  sunny  days 
for  the  admission  of  a  moderate  portion  of  fresh  air,  which  is  essen- 
tially necessary  to  promote  the  natural  impregnation  of  the  fruit,  and 
improve  its  free  growth ;  for  if  kept  too  close  they  are  apt  to  drop  off 
in  their  infant  state. 

The  fires  are  to  be  lighted  in  the  furnace  every  afternoon  about  four 
or  five  o'clock,  and  if  kept  burning  till  ten  or  twelve,  it  will  sufficiently 
heat  the  flues  to  warm  the  internal  air  of  the  house  till  next  morn- 
ing, when,  if  very  cold,  frosty,  or  cloudy  damp  weather,  a  moderate 
fire  may  also  be  made  occasionally ;  and  by  no  means  force  the  trees 
too  much,  for  a  moderate  warmth  will  prove  the  most  successful;* 
and  thus  continue  the  fires  occasionally  till  towards  the  latter  end  of 
April,  but  less  in  proportion  as  the  weather  grows  warmer. 

Fresh  air  must  be  occasionally  admitted  in  fine  days,  by  sliding 
some  of  the  glasses  a  little  open,  and,  as  the  trees  advance  to  blos- 
som and  fruit,  the  days  grow  longer,  and  the  power  of  the  sun  greater, 
allow  a  greater  proportion  of  air  accordingly.  Likewise  give  fre- 
quent waterings  to  the  borders. 

Thus  your  trees  will  be  in  full  blossom  in  February,  and  some  will 
ripen  fruit  in  April,  particularly  cherries  and  strawberries ;  you  may 
also  expect  early  apricots,  peaches  and  nectarines,  in  May,  and  plums 
and  early  grapes  in  June. 

After  the  fruits  of  the  different  sorts  are  all  gathered,  the  glasses 
should  be  taken  entirely  away,  that  the  trees  may  have  the  full  air 
during  summer ;  and  in  December  they  should  be  placed  upon  the 
frame  again  ready  for  forcing  in  January. 

*  In  forwarding  all  stone  fruit  the  thermometer  ought  to  range  from  45O 
to  500  at  night,  and  6(P  to  7(P  in  the  day  while  in,  and  for  a  short  time 
after  the  blossoms  are  expanded.  Grapes  will  be  the  better  with  an 
average  of  10°  higher. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  55 

With  respect  to  pruning  the  trained  trees,  that  is  those  that  are 
trained  as  wall  trees  against  the  trellis,  &c.,  they  are  to  be  pruned 
and  trained  every  summer  and  autumn,  each  sort  according  to  its 
kind,  as  other  wall  trees,  and  as  directed  under  all  their  respective 
articles ;  and  as  to  the  standards,  their  requisite  pruning  is  princi- 
pally in  autumn,  to  cut  out  any  irregular  growth,  and  thinning  out 
any  crowding  shoots,  for  the  branches  must  be  kept  thin  and  regular, 
clear  of  each  other,  six  or  eight  inches  distant ;  and  any  stragglers 
which  extend  in  length  considerably,  should  be  reduced  to  order ;  and 
as  the  branches  in  general  become  so  long  as  to  press  against  the 
glasses,  or  spread  too  much,  they  should  also  be  reduced  a  little,  to 
preserve  them  within  due  compass,  observing  always,  when  shorten- 
ing the  standards,  it  is  necessary  to  cut  to  a  bud  situated  on  the  out- 
side of  the  shoot  or  branch,  making  the  cut  on  the  inside. 

Every  autumn,  after  pruning  the  trees,  the  borders  must  be  digged 
carefully  one  spade  deep. 

It  must  be  remarked  that  the  trees  in  these  frames  or  houses,  if 
annually  forced,  are  not  so  durable  nor  plentiful  bearers  as  those  in 
the  full  air ;  therefore,  when  you  shall  see  any  become  weak,  sickly, 
or  bad  bearers,  others  should  be  ready  in  training,  or  procured  from 
the  nurseries  to  plant  in  their  stead ;  and  in  this  no  time  should  be 
lost.  Here  is  the  main  advantage  of  growing  in  pots. 

But  to  continue  the  same  trees  more  effectually  in  health,  and  in  a 
bearing  state,  some  have  a  double  portion  of  walling  and  framing 
planted,  but  more  particularly  that  of  the  first  described  fire-heat 
frame,  which  is  sometimes  contrived  to  move  or  slide  along  from  one 
place  to  another,  for  one  framework  and  glasses  to  serve  two  portions 
of  walling,  so  that  being  alternately  worked,  one  part  one  year,  the 
other  the  year  after,  each  portion  of  trees  will  have  a  year  of  rest  in 
their  natural  growth,  and  will  succeed  each  other  in  due  order  for 
forcing,  whereby  the  health  and  vigor  of  the  trees  will  be  better  sup- 
ported, and  each  year  a  greater  crop  of  fruit  may  be  expected  than  if 
the  same  trees  were  successively  forced  every  year. 

HOT   WALLS. 

Hot  walls  are  ranges  of  brick  or  stone  walling  faced  with  glass, 
generally  running  due  east  or  west,  fronting  the  south  and  inclosing 
a  space  of  several  feet  width,  furnished  with  internal  fire  flues,  &c., 
wholly  for  forcing  fruit-trees  to  early  production.  But  as  hot  walls 
and  forcing-houses  are  nearly  similar  in  their  construction,  use,  and 
general  management,  to  forcing-frames,  reference  should  be  had  to 
that  article  for  their  general  explanation. 

VINERIES. 

Various  buildings  have  Been  contrived  to  effect  the  ripening  of  the 
more  choice  kinds  of  late  grapes,  which  cannot  be  effected  in  the  open 
ground,  as  likewise  to  force  the  earlier  sorts,  so  as  to  have  them  fit 
for  the  table  in  May,  June  and  July.  The  constructions  of  these 
kinds  of  buildings  are  different,  though  all  answering  the  same  pur- 


56  THE  ORCHARD.  [JAN. 

pose :  some  are  constructed  with  flues  ranging  within  the  wall  where 
the  vines  are  trained  up  ;  but  as  the  vines  would  receive  more  heat  at 
times  by  being  closer  to  the  wall  than  is  proper,  a  lattice- work  is 
generally  detached  therefrom,  to  which  the  branches  are  trained,  and 
the  whole  is  covered  with  a  range  of  sloping  glass ;  but  the  more 
common  method  is  to  train  them  under  the  sloping  glasses  of  the 
hot-house,  or  other  similarly  constructed  stoves  or  forcing-frames ;  in 
such  places  the  vines  are  generally  planted  close  to  the  outside,  and 
introduced  through  holes  contrived  for  the  purpose  in  the  upright 
timbers  of  the  front-lights,  as  low  down  as  can  conveniently  be  done. 
In  some  vineries  the  vines  are  planted  near  the  front,  in  the  inside, 
and  trained  up  to  neat  trellises  made  for  that  purpose  close  under  the 
roof  or  sloping  glasses.  This  is  the  best  in  all  cases. 

SOUTHERN   STATES. 

In  the  southern  States,  especially  such  of  them  as  have  not  severe 
winter  frosts,  you  may  plant  apple,  pear,  peach,  nectarine,  apricot, 
cherry  and  plum-trees,  both  for  espaliers  and  standards :  plant  also 
almonds,  quinces,  gooseberies,  currants,  raspberries,  and  every  other 
kind  of  hardy  fruit  bearing  trees  and  shrubs,  which  are  usually  planted 
either  in  the  fruit-garden  or  orchard. 

You  may  also  prune  each  and  every  of  the  above  kinds,  according 
to  the  directions  given  in  this  month,  March  and  October ;  and  in  the 
two  last  months  you  will  find  ample  instructions,  both  for  preparing 
the  ground  and  planting  the  various  kinds  of  fruit-trees  above  men- 
tioned. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

THE  Orchard  is  a  department  consigned  entirely  to  the  growth  of 
standard  fruit-trees  for  furnishing  a  large  supply  of  the  most  useful 
kinds  of  fruit ;  in  which  you  may  have  as  standards,  apple,  pear, 
plum,  cherry,  peach,  apricot,  quince,  almond,  and  nectarine-trees ; 
also  mulberries,  filberts,  medlars,  and  berberries ;  Spanish  chestnuts 
and  English  walnuts  ;  which  two  latter  are  more  particularly  appli- 
cable for  the  boundaries  of  large  orchards,  in  which  they  will  screen 
the  other  trees  from  impetuous  winds  and  cold  blasts,  all  of  which 
are  to  be  arranged  in  rows  at  the  distances  directed  in  March  and  Oc- 
tober; in  which  months  you  will  find  ample  directions  for  raising,  pro- 
pagating, and  planting  the  various  kinds  of  fruit-trees  necessary  for 
all  the  departments. 

But  sometimes  orchards  consist  entirely  -of  apple-trees,  particularly 
when  apples  are  wanted  in  large  quantities  for  cider  or  whiskey 
making ;  and  sometimes  whole  orchards  of  very  considerable  extent 
of  peach-trees,  when  the  fruit  is  designed  for  distillation ;  likewise 
entire  orchards  of  cherry-trees,  but  particularly  within  a  moderate 


JAN.]  THE  ORCHARD!  5t 

distance  of  large  cities  and  towns,  where  sale  can  be  obtained  for  the 
fruit ;  pear  orchards  are  also  extensive  where  people  are  in  the  habit 
of  making  perry. 

A  general  orchard,  however,  composed  of  all  the  before  mentioned 
fruit-trees,  should  consist  of  a  treble  or  more  proportion  of  apple  and 
peach-trees,  because  they  are  considerably  the  most  useful  fruits,  par- 
ticularly the  former,  as  they,  exclusive  of  their  use  in  distilling  and 
cider-making,  may  be  continued  for  table  use,  in  the  different  sorts, 
the  whole  year  round. 

But  the  misfortune  is,  that  too  frequently  after  orchards  are 
planted  and  fenced,  they  have  seldom  any  more  care  bestowed  upon 
them.  Boughs  are  suffered  to  hang  dangling  to  the  ground,  their 
heads  are  so  loaded  with  wood  as  to  be  almost  impervious  to  sun  and 
air,  and  they  are  left  to  be  exhausted  by  moss  and  injured  by  cattle, 
&c. 

By  a  redundancy  of  wood  the  roots  are  exhausted  unprofitably,  the 
bearing  wood  is  robbed  of  part  of  its  sustenance,  and  the  natural  life 
of  the  tree  unnecessarily  shortened,  whilst  the  superfluous  wood  en- 
dangers the  tree  by  giving  the  winds  an  additional  power  over  it,  and 
is  injurious  to  the  bearing  wood,  by  retaining  the  damps  and  prevent- 
ing a  due  circulation  of  air. 

The  outer  branches  only  are  able  to  produce  fruit  properly ;  every 
inner  and  underling  branch  ought  therefore  to  be  removed.  It  is 
common  to  see  fruit-trees  with  two  or  three  tiers  of  boughs  pressing 
so  hard  upon  one  another,  with  their  twigs  so  intimately  interwoven, 
that  a  small  bird  can  scarcely  creep  in  among  them.  Trees  thus 
neglected  acquire,  from  want  of  due  ventilation,  a  stinted  habit,  and 
the  fruit  becomes  of  a  crude  inferior  quality. 

The  trees  are  very  often  almost  entirely  subdued  by  moss,  which 
kills  many,  and  injures  others  so  much  that  they  are  only  an  incum- 
brance  to  the  ground  and  a  disgrace  to  the  country.  This  evil  may 
easily  be  checked  by  scraping  and  rubbing  off  the  moss  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  with  a  rounded  iron  scraper,  &c.,  when  men  have  little 
else  to  employ  them,  and  only  seek  work  in  idle,  expensive,  and  un- 
profitable amusements.  Draining  the  land,  if  too  retentive  of  mois- 
ture, will  sometimes  prevent  or  cure  moss,  or  digging  round  the  trees 
on  the  approach  of  winter,  or  in  spring,  and  bringing  fresh  mould,  or 
the  scouring  of  ponds  and  roads,  or  the  rubbish  of  old  walls,  well 
prepared  and  pulverized,  and  laid  round  them.  Whatever  contributes 
to  the  health  of  the  tree,  will  cure,  or  in  some  degree  mitigate,  this 
and  other  diseases. 

These  considerations  ought  to  induce  to  an  examination  of  your 
standard  apple,  pear,  plum  and  cherry-trees,  &c.,  and  where  found 
necessary,  to  thin  their  branches,  scrape  and  rub  off  moss,  cut  off  all 
dead  or  irregularly  placed  limbs  and  branches,  and  also  any  luxuriant 
unfruitful  shoots,  and  such  branches  as  appear  to  be  in  a  decaying 
or  cankery  state,  all  of  which  must  be  cut  off  dose  to  where  they 
were  produced,  or  to  some  healthy  leading  branch  or  shoot ;  for  the 
bark  cannot  grow  over  a  stump,  because  there  is  no  power  to  draw 
the  sap  that  way,  for  which  reason  always  cut  rather  a  little  within 
the  wood. 


58  THE  ORCHARD.  [JAN. 

Smooth  the  cut  parts,  and  if  the  amputations  are  large,  apply 
thereto  a  light  covering  of  the  medicated  tar  below  mentioned,  which 
is  to  be  laid  on  with  a  painting  brush ;  if  under  an  inch  in  diameter, 
it  is  scarcely  worth  while  to  go  to  that  trouble,  for  suchj  when  well 
pruned,  will  heal  and  cover  freely. 

Be  particular  to  use  a  saw  in  taking  off  all  the  limbs  and  branches 
that  are  too  large  for  the  knife,  and  smooth  the  cut  parts  with  either 
your  pruning-knife  or  a  neat  draw-knife,  which  answers  better  for 
large  amputations. 

The  medicated  tar  is  composed  of  half  an  ounce  of  corrosive  sub- 
limate, reduced  to  a  fine  powder,  and  then  put  into  a  three  pint  earthen 
pipkin,  with  about  half  a  gill  of  gin,  or  other  spirit,  stirred  well  to- 
gether, and  the  sublimate  thus  dissolved.  The  pipkin  must  then  be 
filled  by  degrees  with  common  tar,  and  constantly  stirred  till  the  mix- 
ture is  intimately  blended.  This  quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  two 
hundred  trees.  Being  of  a  very  poisonous  nature,  it  should  not  be 
suffered  to  lie  carelessly  about  the  house.  The  sublimate  dissolves 
better  when  united  with  the  same  quantity  of  the  spirit  of  hartshorn 
or  of  sal  ammoniac.  This  mixture  being  apt  to  run,  consistency  may 
be  given  it  by  mixing  it  with  either  pounded  chalk  or  whiting. 

The  above  composition  will  be  found  eminently  useful,  as  no  worm 
of  any  kind  can  live  near  its  influence,  and  no  evil  whatever  will 
arise  to  the  trees  from  its  poisonous  quality ;  it  yields  to  the  growth 
of  the  bark,  and  affords  a  complete  protection  to  the  parts  against  the 
influence  of  the  weather. 

A  solution  of  corrosive  sublimate,  made  as  directed  under  the  head 
Orchard  next  month,  will  be  found  the  most  effectual  wash  that  can 
be  applied  to  peach  and  other  trees  for  the  destruction  of  the  worm 
which  so  generally  annoys  them. 

Those  who  wish  to  apply  Forsythe's  or  Barnes's  compositions,  will 
find  instructions,  both  for  making  and  applying  them,  under  the  head 
Orchard  in  March. 

When  pruning  is  judiciously  done,  fruit-trees  will  come  into 
bearing  sooner,  produce  more  abundantly,  and  continue  in  vigor  for 
nearly  double  their  common  age.  No  branch  of  your  orchard  trees 
should  ever  be  shortened  unless  for  the  figure  of  the  tree  or  the  rea- 
sons before  mentioned,  and  then  it  should  be  taken  off  close,  as  before 
observed,  to  where  it  was  produced,  or  to  a  leading  shoot.  The  more 
the  range  of  branches  shoot  circularly,  a  little  inclining  upwards, 
the  more  equally  will  the  sap  be  distributed,  and  the  better  will  the 
tree  bear.  The  ranges  of  branches  should  not  be  too  near  each 
other,  that  the  fruit  and  leaves  should  all  have  their  full  share  of  sun, 
and  where  it  suits,  the  middle  of  the  tree  should  be  so  free  from 
wood  that  no  branch  crosses  another,  but  all  the  extremities  point 
upwards. 

If  any  of  your  particularly  valuable  fruit-trees  are  partly  decayed, 
or  in  a  bad  state  of  health,  and  you  wish  to  attempt  their  restoration 
by  judicious  pruning  and  the  application  of  good  composition,  you 
must  defer  it  till  March,  or  when  the  sap  begins  to  ascend  in  spring, 
which  will  be  manifest  by  the  swelling  of  their  buds  j  then  prune 
them  and  apply  the  composition  as  directed  in  March. 


JAN.] 


THE  ORCHARD. 


59 


I  am  not  an  advocate  for  much  doctoring  with  old  decayed  or  sickly 
tree,  but  the  reverse;  therefore  recommend  as  the  most  preferable 
way  to  replace  such  with  young  healthy  trees,  so  soon  as  they  show 
strong  symptoms  of  decay.  Whenever  you  meet  with  a  tree,  the 
fruit  of  which  you  esteem,  propagate  it  immediately  whilst  in  health, 
by  budding  or  grafting,  &c. ;  and  if  it  should  afterwards  get  into  a 
declined  state,  replace  it  with  one  of  the  same,  or  some  other  good 
kind.  Never  propagate  from  a  sickly  tree  if  you  can  well  avoid  it, 
for  its  disorder  will  be  carried  with  the  buds  or  grafts,  and  in  all  pro- 
bability will  ultimately  work  their  destruction. 

For  the  method  of  propagating  fruit-trees,  &c.,  by  budding  or  in- 
oculation, see  the  Nursery  in  July. 


GOOD   AND   BAD   PRUNING   OF   FOREST-TREES. 

The  annexed  wood-cuts  will  explain  the  effects  of  judicious  and 
injudicious  pruning  better  than  a  lengthened  disquisition.  Fig.  8 
represents  a  tree  of  thirty  years'  growth,  which  has  been  regularly 
and  properly  pruned.  Fig.  9,  a  tree  of  the  same  age,  which  has  been 
neglected  as  to  pruning  during  its  early  growth,  and  has  now  been 
pruned  in  a  way  too  frequently  practised — namely,  by  sawing  and 
lopping  off  the  branches^  after  they  have  attained  a  large  size.  Fig. 
10  shows  the  bad  consequences  of  neglecting  early  pruning,  in  the 


Fig.  8. 


Fig.  10. 


case  of  a  plank  cut  from  an  ash-tree  which  had  been  pruned  by  lop- 
ping off  the  large  branches  many  years  before  it  was  felled.  The  cuts 
in  this  case  had  been  made  several  inches  from  the  bole,  and  the 
branches  being  very  large,  the  stumps  left  had  become  rotten.  The 
enlargement  of  the  trunk  had  not,  however,  been  stopped,  for  the 
new  wood  had  covered  over  all  the  haggled  parts,  in  some  places  to 


60  THE  VINEYARD.  [JAN. 

several  inches  thick.  Yet  the  effects  of  the  previous  exposure  to  the 
action  of  the  weather,  by  injudicious  pruning,  is  strikingly  marked 
by  the  decayed  state  of  the  parts  connected  with  the  branches  which 
had  been  amputated ;  progressive  pruning  of  deciduous  trees,  com- 
menced while  they  are  young,  if  it  is  to  be  practised  at  all,  will  pro- 
duce no  such  blemishes  when  the  timber  is  cut  up.  In  a  school  for 
gardeners,  or  indeed  in  every  school,  these  effects  should  be  demon- 
strated by  examples  of  bad  pruning ;  the  best  collection  of  such  is  to 
be  found  in  the  economic  museum  of  Sir  William  Hooker's  founda- 
tion at  Kew  Gardens,  but  it  would  be  very  easy  to  collect  specimens 
for  exhibition  at  horticultural  societies  and  State  and  county  fairs. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

THE  cultivation  of  the  vine  merits  the  attention  and  support  of 
every  lover  of  his  country.  The  practicability  of  producing  Wine  in 
the  United  States,  cannot  be  doubted  ;  the  experiment  has  been  made 
successfully  in  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Kentucky,  Missouri,  and  South 
Carolina.  Nothing  is  now  wanted  but  the  liberal  and  spirited  exer- 
tions of  the  citizens  to  carry  it  to  such  perfection,  especially  in  the 
middle  and  southern  States,  as  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  to  pro- 
duce a  sufficient  supply  for  home  consumption,  and,  in  time,  a  large 
quantity 'for  exportation.* 

WORK   TO   BE   DONE   IN   THE   VINEYARD. 

In  severe  weather,  when  other  work  cannot  be  performed,  prepare 
poles  for  the  support  of  the  vines ;  these,  for  sake  of  durability,  ought 
to  be  made  of  red  cedar,  white  oak,  or  chestnut,  split  and  seasoned, 
and  to*  be  made  one  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches  square,  and  six 
and  a  half  or  seven  feet  long,  pointed  at  the  lower  end  ;  and  if  that 
part  which  is  to  be  inserted  in  the  ground,  and  about  three  inches 
above  it,  say  fifteen  inches,  be  dipped  in  boiling  pitch,  it  will  be  of 
considerable  advantage  j  if  this  is  not  convenient,  let  that  part  be 
slightly  scorched  in  the  fire,  which  will  prevent  their  rotting  so  soon 
as  they  otherwise  would.  Round  poles,  such  as  are  used  for  hoops, 
of  about  two  inches  diameter  will  do,  but  these  soon  rot,  and  will 
require  to  be  replaced  every  two  or  three  years,  when  the  former 
would  last,  if  made  of  the  heart  of  well-grown  timber,  fifteen  or 
twenty  years.  Sticks  of  four  or  five  feet  long  may  also  be  made  for 
the  purpose  of  supporting  young  vines  during  the  first  and  second 
years  of  their  growth,  after  which  they  are  to  be  taken  away  to  an- 
swer a  similar  purpose,  and  replaced  with  the  tall  poles ;  those  may 
be  made  one  inch  and  a  quarter  square,  pointed,  and  dipped  in  pitch 
as  above. 

*  This  is  now  being  carried  out  to  a  prodigious  extent ;  the  neighborhood 
of  Cincinnati  alone  furnishes  about  one  million  gallons  of  first  quality. 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  61 

You  may  also  at  this  season  cart  manure  into  the  vineyard,  and 
spread  it  as  directed  in  February,  repair  old  fences,  and  prepare  posts 
and  rails,  or  boards  for  new  ones ;  examine  your  ploughs,  harrows, 
spades,  shovels,  hoes,  mattocks,  and  all  your  other  tools,  and  have 
such  as  need  it  repaired  ;  purchase  any  new  tools  that  may  be  want- 
ed, and  have  all  your  necessaries  in  readiness  for  the  opening  of  the 
spring. 

In  such  of  the  southern  States  as  have  mild  winters  and  early 
vegetation,  vines  may  now  be  pruned,  as  directed  under  the  head 
Vineyard  in  February,  but  with  them,  November  would  be  a  much 
more  eligible  time  for  this  work.  In  the  middle  States  you  must  defer 
the  pruning  of  vines  to  the  last  week  or  ten  days  in  February,  not 
later,  except  in  extremely  severe  weather,  but  on  no  account  later 
than-  the  first  week  of  March,  for  soon  after  that  period  the  sap  be- 
gins to  ascend,  after  which,  were  you  to  prune  them,  they  would 
bleed  so  copiously  from  where  the  wounds  were  inflicted,  as  to  greatly 
exhaust  and  injure  them,  and  even  totally  to  destroy  some.  In  the 
eastern  States  this  work  may  be  done  between  the  first  and  tenth  of 
March,  according  as  the  spring  may  be  early  or  late,  observing  that 
it  is  safer  to  prune  too  early  than  too  late. 

Under  the  head  Vineyard  in  March,  you  will  find  general  instruc- 
tions for  the  different  methods  of  propagating  and  cultivating  the 
vine,  both  as  espaliers,  and  in  the  field  way ;  likewise  concise  descrip- 
tions of  the  various  kinds  which  have  been  generally  cultivated,  either 
for  table  use  or  making  wine ;  and  also,  observations  on  the  kinds 
most  likely  to  succeed  in  the  various  parts  of  the  Union. 


THE   NURSERY. 

THOUGH  this  is  not  a  period  in  which  much  business  can  be  done 
in  the  Nursery,  especially  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  it  may 
be  well  to  call  attention  to  that  eminently  useful  department ;  in 
order  that  those  who  have  not  yet  attempted  it,  may  have  time  to 
consider  of  its  utility,  and  be  determined,  when  the  season  arrives  in 
which  it  can  be  commenced. 

The  many  advantages  which  every  lover  of  improvement  and  plant- 
ing may  derive  from  having  a  nursery  of  his  own,  especially  in  such 
a  country  as  this,  where  public  nurseries  are  so  scarce  and  frequently 
so  remote,  as  to  render  it  extremely  inconvenient  to  procure  such 
trees  as  maybe  wanted;  the  expenses  of  transportation  to  a  con- 
siderable distance ;  the  length  of  time  the  trees  have  to  be  out  of 
ground,  and  the  consequent  uncertainty  of  their  growth ;  the  hazard 
of  procuring  the  intended  or  even  good  kinds — except  the  proprietors 
are  men  of  experience,  knowledge,  and  integrity — are  strong  induce- 
ments to  the  establishing  small  and  convenient  nurseries,  in  which 
the  owners  may  raise  such  kinds  of  fruit  and  forest-trees,  ornamental 
shrubs  and  other  plants,  as  may  be  pleasing  and  profitable  to  them- 
selves, useful  to  posterity,  and  ornamental  to  the  country. 


62  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

The  raising  of  Osage  orange,  buckthorn,  thorn- quicks  and  other 
plants,  suitable  for  making  live  hedges,  ought  also  to  command  at- 
tention ;  especially  in  such  parts  of  the  Union  as  timber  is  getting 
scarce  and  dear  in.  The  planting  and  establishing  of  such  hedges 
must  ultimately  be  resorted  to,  and  the  sooner  it  is  commenced  the 
better. 

Conscious  of  the  great  utility  of  such  establishments,  I  shall  in 
the  course  of  this  work  give  such  ample  and  minute  instructions,  for 
the  raising  and  propagation  of  fruit  and  forest-trees,  ornamental  trees 
and  shrubs,  thorn-quicks,  &c.  &c.,  as  may  lead  the  most  inexperi- 
enced persons  to  a  complete  knowledge  of  the  business  ;  which  may 
be  pursued  upon  a  small  or  a  more  extensive  scale,  as  it  suits. 

In  the  nursery  may  also  be  raised  all  sorts  of  hardy  herbaceous 
plants,  both  fibrous,  bulbous,  and  tuberous-rooted,  for  adorning  the 
flower  garden,  pleasure-ground,  and  to  plant  for  medical  use,  &c. 

EXTENT,  SOIL,  SITUATION,  &C. 

With  respect  to  the  proper  extent  or  dimensions  of  a  nursery, 
whether  for  private  use  or  public  supply,  it  must  be  according  to  the 
quantity  of  plants  required,  or  the  demand  for  sale  :  if  for  private 
use,  from  a  quarter  to  half  an  acre  or  more  may  be  sumcient,  which 
must  be  regulated  according  to  the  extent  of  garden  ground  and 
plantations  it  is  required  to  supply ;  and  if  for  a  public  nursery,  for 
any  general  cultivation,  not  less  than  three  or  four  acres  of  land  will 
be  worth  occupying  as  such,  and  from  that  to  fifteen  or  twenty  acres 
or  more  may  be  requisite,  according  to  the  demand. 

The  soil  for  a  mirsery,  requires  particular  attention.  It  ought  to 
be  naturally  good  for  at  least  one  full  spade  deep,  or  if  more,  the 
better ;  always  prefer  a  loamy  soil  of  a  moderately  light  tempera- 
ment, which  cannot  naturally  be  too  good,  notwithstanding  what 
some  advance  to  the  contrary,  even  though  the  trees  should  after- 
wards be  removed  into  a  poorer  soil.  Reason  teaches,  that  young 
trees  growing  vigorously  and  freely  in  a  good  soil,  will  form  numerous 
and  healthy  roots,  and  when  they  come  to  be  afterwards  planted  in 
worse  land,  they  will  be  able,  from  the  strength  of  their  constitution 
and  multiplicity  of  roots,  to  feed  themselves  freely  with  coarser  food. 
On  the  contrary,  young  trees  raised  upon  poor  land,  by  having  their 
vessels  contracted  and  their  outward  bark  mossy  and  diseased,  will  be 
a  long  time,  even  after  being  removed  into  a  rich  soil,  before  they 
attain  to  a  vigorous  state.  If  the  roots  of  the  young  plants  have  not 
a  good  soil,  or  sumcient  room  to  strike  in,  there  will  be  little  hope  of 
their  furnishing  themselves  with  that  ample  stock  of  roots  and  fibres 
which  is  necessary  to  a  good  plant,  and  with  which  every  young  tree 
ought  to  be  well  furnished,  when  removed  for  final  transplantation. 

Most  authors  who  have  written  on  the  kind  of  soil  most  suitable 
for  a  nursery  have  differed  in  their  opinions,  even  so  far  as  to  be 
almost  quite  contradictory  to  one  another;  and  the  common  opinion 
is  in  favor  of  the  soil  being  the  same,  nearly  similar,  or  rather  worse, 
than  that  into  which  the  trees  are  to  be  finally  planted.  But  this  is 
setting  out  upon  a  very  wrong  principle ;  for,  were  a  nursery  to  be 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  63 

established  on  a  poor  gravel  or  stiff  clay,  the  plants  raised  on  such 
would  be  poor,  small,  hide-bound,  starved  things,  very  unfit  for  plant- 
ing in  any  land. 

If  an  animal  was  to  be  only  half  fed,  from  its  first  having  life,  for 
one  year,  I  believe  that  such  would  never  grow -to  be  of  a  large  size 
of  its  kind,  if  afterwards  it  was  put  into  better  keeping  j  but  suppose 
it  was  put  to  harder  fare,  it  would  certainly  make  a  poor  figure.  If 
this  same  animal  had  been  moderately  fed  for  one  year,  and  then  put 
into  worse  feeding,  it  would  have  made  a  better  beast. 

Some  will  say  that  these  observations  are  unnecessary,  as  the 
ground  in  which  fruit-trees  are  generally  planted  is  for  the  most  part 
good,  being  particularly  selected  for  that  purpose,  and  that  a  soil 
similar  thereto  will  do  very  well ;  granted,  provided  the  ground  be 
naturally  good ;  but  if  these  people  had  a  large  extent  of  poor  gra- 
velly soil,  or  stiff  clay,  to  plant  with  forest  or  ornamental  trees,  live 
hedges,  &c.,  would  they  seek  out  a  similar  spot  for  a  nursery,  to  raise 
plants  for  planting  the  same  ?  If  so,  they  would  discover  their  mis- 
take when  too  late.  This  is  the  error  I  wish  to  correct,  being  very 
desirous  that  every  attempt  towards  this  kind  of  improvement  should 
prove  successful ;  and  in  order  to  effect  this,  it  is  necessary  to  set  out 
on  right  principles. 

It  is  very  wrong  to  enrich  nurseries  with  dung,  particularly  until 
it  is  very  old,  and  almost  turned  into  earth  j  although  many  eminent 
nurserymen  dung  their  ground  very  plentifully,  yet  they  do  it  with 
great  judgment,  and  never  plant  trees  until  it  is  well  rooted  and 
mixed  with  the  mould,  so  as  to  be  quite  incorporated,  and  generally 
take  a  crop  or  two  of  vegetables  before  they  plant  trees  therein. 

It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  the  soil  should  be  exceedingly 
rich,  nor  over  carefully  manured ;  a  medium  between  the  two  extremes 
is  best ;  such  as  any  good  substantial  garden  ground ;  or  good  mellow 
pasture  land,  having  the  sward  trenched  to  the  bottom,  will  do  very 
well  for  the  growth  of  trees.  '.,<  ; •-• 

As  to  situation,  it  ought  to  be  somewhat  low,  but  dry,  fully  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  and  free  air,  and,  if  possible,  where  there  is  the  con- 
venience of  water  for  the  occasional  watering  of  young  seedlings  and 
newly  planted  trees,  &c. 

As  to  a  small  nursery  for  private  use,  it  may  be  formed  out  of  part 
of  the  kitchen  garden,  if  large  enough,  or  some  other  convenient 
place ;  or  it  may  be  made  somewhere  convenient  to  the  pleasure 
ground,  if  any,  and  so  contrived  as  to  lead  insensibly  into  it  by  wind- 
ing walks,  so  as  to  appear  to  be  part  of  the  same. , 

FENCES,  PREPARING  AND  LAYING  OUT  THE  GROUND. 

A  fence  round  the  whole  ground  is  necessary  :  this  may  either  be  a 
hedge  and  ditch,  or  a  paling ;  the  former  is  the  cheapest,  and  in  the 
end  most  durable ;  though  in  some  places  where  rabbits  abound,  paling 
fences  at  first  are  eligible  for  preserving  the  nursery  from  the  depre- 
dations of  those  animals  which  often  do  great  mischief  to  the  young 
plants  by  barking  and  cropping  them  :  a  good  hedge  and  ditch  fence, 
however,  may  be  made  very  effectual  against  the  inroads  of  both  men 


64  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

and  brutes;  and  the  most  eligible  plant  for  this  purpose  is  the  haw- 
thorn ;  but  a  paling,  or  other  similar  close  fence,  either  in  general  or 
part,  would  be  extremely  useful,  against  which  to  train  young  wall- 
trees  to  a  proper  growth  for  garden  or  espalier  plantations. 

The  ground  must  then  be  all  regularly  trenched  one  or  two  spades 
deep,  according  as  the  natural  depth  of  the  soil  will  admit,  for  by  no 
means  dig  deeper  than  the  natural  good  soil,  being  either  one  spade, 
one  and  a  half,  or  two  spades  deep. 

Then,  having  trenched  the  ground,  proceed  to  divide  it  by  walks 
into  quarters  and  other  compartments;  a  principal  walk  should  lead 
directly  through  the  middle  or  some  principal  part  of  the  ground, 
which  may  be  from  five  to  eight  or  ten  feet  wide,  according  as  it  shall 
seem  proper  for  use  or  ornament,  having  a  broad  border  on  each  side ; 
another  walk  should  be  carried  all  round  next  the  outward  boundary, 
four  or  five  feet  wide,  leaving  an  eight  or  ten  feet  border  next  the 
fence  all  the  way ;  then  may  divide  the  internal  part  by  smaller  cross 
walks,  so  as  to  form  the  whole  into  four,  six.  or  eight  principal  divi- 
sions, which  are  commonly  called  quarters. 

One  or  more  of  the  divisions  must  be  allotted  for  a  seminary,  i.  e.} 
for  the  reception  of  all  sorts  of  seeds  for  raising  seedling  plants  to 
furnish  the  other  parts ;  therefore  divide  this  seminary  ground  into 
four  feet  wide  beds,  with  foot-wide  alleys  at  least  between  bed  and 
bed  :  in  these  beds  should  be  sown  seeds,  &c.,  of  all  such  trees,  shrubs 
and  herbaceous  plants  as  are  raised  from  seed ;  and  which  seeds  con- 
sist both  of  the  various  sorts  of  kernels  and  stones  of  fruit,  to  raise 
stocks  for  grafting  and  budding ;  seeds  of  forest  and  ornamental  trees, 
shrubs,  &c.,  and  seeds  of  numerous  herbaceous  perennials,  both  of 
the  fibrous-rooted  and  bulbous-rooted  tribes :  the  sowing  season  is 
both  spring  and  autumn,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  different 
sorts,  which  is  fully  illustrated  in  their  proper  places;  and  when  the 
young  tree  and  shrub  seedling-plants  so  raised  are  one  or  two  years 
old,  they  are  to  be  planted  out  in  nursery-rows  into  the  other  princi- 
pal divisions ;  but  many  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants  require  to  be 
picked  out  from  the  seed-beds,  when  but  from  two  to  three  or  four 
months  old,  as  directed  for  each  under  their  own  respective  heads. 
On  the  other  hand,  most  kinds  of  bulbous  seedlings  will  not  be  fit  for 
planting  out  in  less  than  one  or  two  years. 

Part  of  the  nursery  ground  should  be  allotted  for  stools  of  various 
trees  and  shrubs  for  the  propagation  by  layers,  by  which  vast  num- 
bers of  plants  of  different  kinds  are  propagated.  These  stools  are 
strong  plants  of  trees  and  shrubs,  planted  in  rows  three  or  four  feet 
distant  every  way,  and  such  of  them  as  naturally  rise  with  tall  stems, 
are,  after  being  planted  one  year,  to  be  headed  down  near  the  ground, 
to  force  out  many  lower  shoots  conveniently  situated  for  laying. 

And  as  to  cuttings,  suckers,  slips,  offsets,  &c.,  those  of  hardy 
trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  may  be  planted  in  any  convenient  compart- 
ment, and  in  shady  borders,  &c.,  and  for  the  more  tender  kinds  should 
allot  some  warm  sheltered  situation. 

The  other  principal  divisions,  therefore,  of  the  nursery-ground, 
are  for  the  reception  of  the  various  sorts  of  seedling  plants  from  the 
above  seminary  quarters,  also  for  all  others  that  are  raised  from 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  65 

suckers,  layers,  cuttings,  &c.,  there  to  be  planted  in  rows  from  one 
to  two  or  three  feet  asunder,  according  to  their  natures  of  growth; 
observing  to  allow  the  tree  and  shrub  kinds  treble  the  distance  of 
herbaceous  perennials.  Of  the  tree  and  shrub  kinds,  some  are  to 
be  planted  for  stocks  to  graft  and  bud  the  select  sorts  of  fruit-trees 
upon,  and  other  choice  plants,  which  are  usually  propagated  by  those 
methods;  others  are  trained  up  entirely  on  their  own  roots  without 
budding  or  grafting,  as  in  most  forest  and  other  hardy  tree  kinds,  as 
also  almost  all  the  sorts  of  shrubs.  Here  they  are  to  remain  to  have 
two,  three,  or  several  years'  growth,  according  as  they  shall  require, 
for  the  several  purposes  for  which  they  are  designed  in  their  future 
situations  in  the  garden  and  plantations,  &c.,  which  are  directed  in 
their  respective  cultures. 

In  a  complete  nursery  it  is  also  proper  to  allot  some  dry,  warm, 
sheltered  situation  in  the  full  sun,  on  which  to  have  occasional  hot- 
beds of  dung  or  tan  for  raising  and  forwarding  many  sorts  of  tender 
or  curious  exotics,  by  seed,  cuttings,  suckers,  slips,  &c.,  and  for 
which  purposes  you  should  be  furnished  with  eligible  frames  and 
lights,  hand-glasses,  garden-mats,  and  other  relative  requisites. 

GENERAL  MODE  OF  ARRANGING  THE  PLANTS  OF  THIS  DEPARTMENT. 

In  the  distribution  of  the  various  sorts  of  plants  in  the  nursery, 
let  each  sort  be  separate;  the  fruit-trees  should  generally  occupy 
spaces  by  themselves;  the  forest- trees,  &c.,  should  also  be  stationed 
together;  all  the  shrub  kind  should  be  ranged  in  separate  compart- 
ments ;  allot  also  a  place  for  herbaceous  perennials :  a  warm  place 
should  likewise  be  allotted  for  the  tender  plants,  and  defended  with 
yew,  juniper,  or  private  hedges,  or  a  reed  hedge,  &c.,  in  which  com- 
partments you  may  station  all  such  plants  as  are  a  little  tender  whilst 
young,  and  require  occasional  shelter  from  frost,  yet  are  not  so  tender 
as  to  require  to  be  housed  like  green-house  plants,  &c.,  so  that  in 
such  compartments  there  may  also  be  frames  of  various  sizes,  either 
to  be  covered  occasionally  with  glass-lights,  or  some  with  mats,  to 
contain  such  of  the  more  choice  of  the  above  tender  kinds  in  pots,  to 
be  nursed  up  a  year  or  two,  or  longer,  with  occasional  shelter,  till 
hardened  gradually  to  bear  the  open  air  fully. 

The  arrangement  of  all  the  sorts  in  the  open  ground  must  always 
be  in  lines  or  nursery-rows,  as  formerly  observed,  to  stand  till  arrived 
at  a  proper  growth  for  drawing  off  for  the  garden  and  plantation ; 
placing  the  fruit-tree  stocks,  &c.,  for  grafting  and  budding  upon,  in 
rows  three  feet  asunder,  if  for  dwarfs,  but  standards  four  feet,  and  a 
foot  and  a  half  or  two  feet  in  the  lines ;  though  after  being  grafted 
and  budded,  they  then  commencing  fruit-trees,  &c. ;  if  they  are  to 
stand  to  grow  to  any  large  size,  they  should  be  allowed  the  width  of 
five  feet  between  the  rows.  Forest-trees  should  also  be  placed  in 
rows  four  feet  asunder,  and  eighteen  inches  distance  in  the  rows, 
varying  the  distance  both  ways  according  to  the  time  they  are  to 
stand ;  the  shrub  kind  should  likewise  be  arranged  in  rows  about  two 
feet  asunder,  and  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  distant  in  each  line;  and 
as  to  herbaceous  plants,  they  should  generally  be  disposed  in  four 
5 


66  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

feet  wide  beds,  or  large  borders,  in  rows,  or  distances  from  six  to 
twelve  or  eighteen  inches  asunder,  according  to  their  nature  of  growth 
and  the  time  they  are  to  stand. 

By  the  above  arrangement  of  the  various  sorts  of  hardy  trees, 
shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants,  in  rows  at  those  small  distances  in  the 
nursery,  a  great  number  of  plants  are  contained  within  a  narrow 
compass,  which  is  sufficient  room,  as  they  are  only  to  remain  a  short 
time;  and  that  by  being  thus  stationed  in  a  little  compass  they  are 
more  readily  kept  under  a  proper  regulation  for  the  time  they  are  to 
remain  in  this  department. 

In  the  public  nurseries  they  often  plant  many  kinds  of  seedling 
trees  and  shrubs  in  much  closer  rows  at  first  planting  out  than  the 
distances  above  prescribed,  not  only  in  order  to  husband  the  ground 
to  the  best  advantage,  but  by  standing  closer  it  encourages  the^  stem 
to  shoot  more  directly  upward,  and  prevents  them  expanding^them- 
selves  much  anywhere  but  at  top;  as  for  instance,  many  sorts  of 
evergreens  that  are  but  of  slow  growth  the  first  year  or  two,  such  as 
the  pine-trees,  firs,  and  several  others,  which  the  nursery  gardeners 
often  prick  out  from  the  seminary,  first  into  four  feet  wide  beds,  in 
rows  lengthways,  six  inches  asunder ;  and  after  having  two  years' 
growth  there,  transplant  them  in  rows  a  foot  asunder ;  and  in  two 
years  after  give  them  another  and  final  transplantation  in  the  nursery, 
in  rows  three  feet  asunder,  as  observed  above ;  and  by  these  different 
transplan tings  it  will  encourage  the  roots  to  branch  out  into  many 
horizontal  fibres,  and  prepare  them  better  for  final  transplantation, 
which  is  the  more  particularly  necessary  in  several  of  the  pine  and 
fir  kinds  and  several  other  evergreens. 

With  respect  to  the  different  methods  of  planting  nursery  plants, 
after  being  raised  either  by  seed,  layers,  cuttings,  &c.,  it  is  performed 
in  several  ways  to  different  sorts ;  some  are  pricked  out  by  dibble, 
especially  small  seedlings,  others  are  put  in  by  the  spade,  either  by 
trenches,  slitting-in,  trenching,  or  holing,  and  some  are  drilled  in  by 
a  spade  or  hoe. 

As  to  most  of  the  tree  and  shrub  kind,  sometimes  the  young  seed- 
ling-trees and  shrubs  are  pricked  out  from  the  seminary  by  dibble ; 
sometimes  they  are  put  in  by  the  spade  in  the  following  method : 
first,  having  set  a  line  to  plant  by,  strike  the  spade  into  the  ground 
with  its  back  close  to  the  line,  and  give  another  stroke  at  right  angles 
with  it,  then  set  a  plant  into  the  crevice  made  at  the  second  stroke, 
bring  it  close  up  into  the  first  made  crevice  even  with  the  line,  and 
press  the  mould  close  to  it  with  the  foot,  then  proceed  to  plant 
another  in  the  same  way,  and  so  proceed  till  all  are  planted.  A 
second  method  is  for  plants  with  rather  larger  roots;  strike  the  spade 
down  with  its  back  close  to  the  line,  as  aforesaid,  and  then  with  a 
spade  cut  out  a  narrow  trench  close  along  the  line,  making  the  side 
next  the  line  perfectly  upright;  then  placing  the  plants  upright 
against  the  back  of  the  trench  close  to  the  line,  at  the  proper  dis- 
tances before  mentioned;  and,  as  you  go  on,  trim  in  the  earth  upon 
their  roots;  when  one  row  is  thus  planted,  tread  the  earth  gently  all 
along  close  to  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to  plant  another  row.  A 
third  method  of  planting  out  small  tree  and  shrub  plants  is,  having 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY  67 

set  the  line  as  above,  then  turning  the  spade  edgeways  to  the  line, 
cast  out  the  earth  of  that  spit,  then  a  person  being  ready  with  plants, 
set  one  in  the  cavity  close  to  the  line,  and  directly  taking  another 
such  spit,  turn  the  earth  in  upon  the  roots  of  the  plant,  and  then 
placing  another  plant  into  the  second  cut,  cover  its  roots  with  the 
earth  of  a  third  spit,  and  so  on  to  the  end ;  but  sometimes  when  the 
roots  are  considerably  larger,  holes  are  made  along  by  the  line  wide 
enough  to  receive  the  roots  freely  every  way,  so  covering  them  in,  as 
above,  as  you  go  on,  observing  always  to  press  the  earth  gently  with 
the  foot  close  to  the  roots,  and  close  about  the  stems,  to  settle  the 
plants  firmly  in  their  proper  position. 

Herbaceous  fibrous-rooted  plants  are,  for  the  most  part,  planted 
with  a  dibble,  except  when  the  roots  are  large  and  spreading,  or  such 
as  are  removed  with  bails  of  earth,  then  they  are  more  commonly 
planted  by  holing  them  in  with  a  garden  trowel,  or  small  spade. 

Bulbous  and  tuberous  rooted  plants  sometimes  are  planted  with  a 
dibble,  but  many  sorts  may  also  be  planted  in  drills  drawn  with  a  hoe. 
These  sorts  are  also  sometimes  planted  as  follows :  rake  or  trim  the 
earth  from  off  the  top  of  the  beds  from  about  three  to  four  inches 
deep  into  the  alleys,  then  place  the  roots  in  rows  upon  the  surface, 
thrusting  the  bottom  a  little  into  the  ground,  and  immediately  cover 
them  with  the  earth  which  was  drawn  off  into  the  alleys  for  that 
purpose,  spreading  it  evenly  over  every  part,  so  as  to  bury  all  the 
roots  an  equal  depth. 

As  to  the  tender  kinds  of  exotic  plants  that  require  occasional 
shelter  whilst  young,  many  of  them  should  be  potted,  in  order  for 
moving  to  a  warm  situation  in  winter,  or  some  into  frames,  &c.,  to 
have  occasional  shelter  from  frost,  by  glasses  or  mats,  as  they  shall 
require ;  hardening  them,  however,  by  degrees,  to  bear  the  open  air 
fully  in  the  nursery  the  year  round. 

And  the  most  tender  kinds  that  require  the  aid  of  a  green-house 
or  stove,  must  all  be  potted  and  placed  among  the  respective  plants 
of  those  conservatories. 


GENERAL  CULTURE  OF  THE  PLANTS  OF  THIS  DEPARTMENT. 

With  respect  to  the  management  of  the  various  hardy  nursery 
plants : — 

Those  designed  as  stocks  for  fruit-trees  should  have  their  stems 
generally  cleared  from  lateral  shoots,  so  as  to  form  a  clean,  straight 
stem,  but  never  to  shorten  the  leading  shoot  until  it  is  decayed,  or 
becomes  very  crooked,  in  which  case  it  may  be  proper  to  cut  it  down 
low  in  spring,  and  it  will  shoot  out  again,  training  the  main  shoot 
for  a  stem,  with  its  top  entire  for  the  present,  till  grafted  or  budded. 

But  in  the  above  nursery  culture  of  the  fruit-tree  kind,  some  sorts 
designed  for  principal  wall  or  espalier  trees  should,  when  of  one  year's 
growth  from  grafting  and  budding,  be  transplanted  against  some  close 
fence  in  the  nursery,  either  a  wall,  paling,  or  trellis,  &c.,  and .  their 
first  graft  or  bud- shoot  headed  down  in  the  spring,  to  promote  an 
emission  of  lower  lateral  shoots  and  branches,  in  order  to  be  regularly 
trained  to  the  fence  in  a  spreading  manner  for  two  years  or  more,  or 


68  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

till  wanted,  whereby  to  form  the  head  in  a  regular  spreading  growth 
for  the  intended  purpose  of  garden  trees,  which  in  the  public  nur- 
series in  particular  should  always  be  ready  in  proper  training  to  supply 
those  who  may  wish  to  have  their  espaliers,  &c.,  covered  as  soon  as 
possible  by  means  of  such  ready  trained  trees. 

A  similar  training,  both  for  wall  and  espalier  fruit-trees,  may  be 
practised  to  some  principal  sorts  in  the  nursery  rows  in  the  open 
quarters  of  ground  by  arranging  their  branches  in  a  spreading  man- 
ner, to  stakes  placed  for  that  purpose. 

But  for  standard  fruit-trees,  they  should  be  trained  with  a  clean 
single  stem,  five  or  six  feet  for  full  standards,  by  cutting  off  all  lateral 
shoots  arising  below ;  half  standards  trained  with  a  three  or  four  feet 
stem,  and  dwarf  standards  in  proportion,  by  the  same  means ;  and 
as  to  the  heads  of  the  standards,  it  may  be  proper  in  some  to  have 
the  first  immediate  shoots  from  the  graft  or  bud  when  a  year  old 
pruned  short  in  spring  to  procure  several  laterals,  in  order  to  form  a 
fuller  spread  of  branches,  proceeding  regularly  together  from  near  the 
summit  of  the  stem  that  the  head  may  advance  in  a  more  regular 
branchy  growth. 

Forest-trees,  in  general,  should  be  encouraged  to  form  straight 
clean  single  stems,  by  occasional  trimming  off  the  largest  lateral 
branches,  which  also  promote  the  leading  top-shoot  in  aspiring 
straight  and  faster  in  height ;  always  suffering  that  part  of  each  tree 
to  shoot  at  full  length,  that  is,  not  to  top  it,  unless,  however,  where 
the  stem  divides  into  forks,  to  trim  off  the  weakest,  and  leave  the 
straightest  and  strongest  shoot  or  branch  to  shoot  out  at  its  proper 
length  to  form  the  aspiring  top,  as  above. 

The  different  sorts  of  shrubs  may  either  be  suffered  to  branch  out 
in  their  own  natural  way,  except  just  regulating  very  disorderly 
growths,  or  some  may  be  trained  with  single  clean  stems  from  about 
a  foot  to  two  or  three  high,  according  as  you  shall  think  proper  with 
respect  to  the  sorts  or  the  purposes  for  which  you  design  them  in  the 
shrubbery ;  but  many  shrubs  appear  the  most  agreeable  when  per- 
mitted to  shoot  out  laterally  all  the  way,  so  as  to  be  branchy  or 
feathered  to  the  bottom. 

Each  species  of  fruit-trees,  as  soon  as  grafted  or  budded,  should 
have  all  its  different  varieties  numbered,  by  placing  large  flat-sided 
sticks  at  the  ends  of  the  rows,  for  which  purpose  some  nurserymen 
use  the  spokes  of  old  coach  wheels,  or  anything  about  that  size  of 
any  durable  wood,  painting  or  marking  the  numbers  thereon,  1, 2,  3, 
&c.,  on  different  sticks,  entering  the  numbers  in  the  nursery  book, 
with  the  name  of  the  varieties  to  which  the  number-sticks  are 
placed ;  whereby  you  can  at  all  times  readily  have  recourse  to  the 
sorts  wanted. 

The  same  method  may  be  practised  to  any  other  trees,  shrubs,  or 
herbaceous  plants,  especially  the  varieties  of  particular  species,  when 
they  are  numerous,  as  in  many  of  the  flowery  tribe,  such  as  auriculas, 
carnations,  tulips,  anemones,  ranunculuses,  and  the  like. 

With  respect  to  watering  the  nursery  plants,  this  may  be  very  re- 
quisite in  dry  hot  weather  in  spring  and  summer  to  seed  beds,  and 
tender  seedling  plants  while  young,  and  when  first  planted  out,  till 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  69 

they  have  taken  good  root ;  also  occasionally  to  new-layed  layers, 
and  newly  planted  cuttings  in  dry  warm  weather;  but  as  to  hardy 
trees  and  shrubs  of  all  sorts,  if  planted  out  at  the  proper  time,  that 
is,  not  too  late  in  spring,  no  great  regard  need  be  paid  to  watering, 
for  they  will  generally  succeed  very  well  without  any;  indeed,  where 
there  are  but  a  few,  you  may,  if  you  please,  water  them  occasionally, 
if  it  proves  a  very  dry  spring  in  April  and  May ;  but  where  there 
are  great  plantations,  it  would  be  an  almost  insupportable  fatigue, 
and  a  great  expense. 

Every  winter  or  spring  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  all  sorts 
of  transplanted  plants  in  the  open  nursery  quarters  must  be  digged; 
this  is  particularly  necessary  to  all  the  tree  and  shrub  kinds  that 
stand  wide  enough  in  rows  to  admit  the  spade  between;  which  work 
is  by  the  nurserymen  called  turning-in ;  the  most  general  season  for 
this  Work  is  any  time  from  October  to  the  latter  end  of  March;  but 
the  sooner  it  is  done  the  more  advantageous  it  will  prove  to  the 
plants.  The  ground  is  to  be  digged  one  spade  deep,  proceeding  row 
by  row,  turning  the  top  of  each  pit  clean  to  the  bottom,  that  all 
weeds  on  the  top  may  be  buried  a  proper  depth  to  rot :  this  work  of 
turning-in  is  a  most  necessary  annual  operation,  both  to  destroy 
weeds  and  to  increase  the  growth  of  the  young  nursery  plants. 

In  summer  be  remarkably  attentive  to  keep  all  sorts  clean  from 
weeds;  the  seedlings  growing  close  in  the  seminary  beds  must  be 
hand-weeded;  but  among  plants  of  all  sorts  that  grow  in  rows  wide 
enough  to  introduce  a  hoe,  this  will  prove  not  only  the  most  expe- 
ditious method  of  destroying  weeds,  but  by  loosening  the  top  of  the 
soil  it  will  prove  good  culture  in  promoting  the  growth  of  all  kinds 
of  plants ;  always  perform  this  work  of  hoeing  in  dry  weather  in  due 
time,  before  the  weeds  grow  large,  and  you  may  soon  go  over  a  great 
space  of  ground,  either  with  a  common  drawing  hoe,  or  occasionally 
with  a  scuffling  hoe,  as  you  shall  find  the  most  convenient. 

According  as  any  quarters  or  compartments  of  the  nursery  ground 
are  cleared  from  plants,  others  must  be  substituted  in  their  room 
from  the  seminary,  &c.,  but  the  ground  should  previously  be  trenched 
and  lie  some  time  fallow  to  recruit  or  recover  its  former  vigor ;  giving 
it  also  the  addition  of  manure,  if  it  shall  seem  proper;  and  after 
being  trenched  in  ridges,  and  having  the  repose  only  of  one  winter 
or  summer,  or  a  year  at  most,  it  will  sufficiently  recover  its  vegeta- 
tive force,  and  may  be  planted  fresh. 

It  will  be  of  advantage  to  plant  the  grounds  with  plants  of  a  dif- 
ferent kind  from  those  which  it  occupied  before. 

The  tender  or  exotic  plants  of  all  kinds  that  require  shelter  only 
from  frost,  whilst  young,  as  formerly  mentioned,  and  by  degrees  be- 
come hardy  enough  to  live  in  the  open  air ;  should  such  of  them  as 
are  seedlings  in  the  open  ground  have  the  beds  arched  over  with 
hoops  or  rods  at  the  approach  of  winter,  in  order  to  be  sheltered  with 
mats  in  severe  weather;  and  those  which  are  in  pots,  either  seedlings 
or  transplanted  plants,  should  be  removed  in  October  in  their  pots 
to  a  warm  sunny  situation  sheltered  with  hedges,  &c.,  placing  some 
close  under  the  fences  facing  the  sun,  where  they  may  have  occa- 
sional covering  with  mats  in  frosty  weather ;  others  that  are  more 


TO  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

tender  may  be  placed  in  frames  to  have  occasional  covering  either  of 
glass  lights  or  mats,  &c.,  from  frost;  observing  of  all  those  sorts  here 
alluded  to,  that  they  are  gradually  to  be  hardened  to  the  open 
ground,  and  need  only  be  covered  in  frosty  weather;  at  all  other 
times  let  them  remain  fully  exposed,  and  by  degrees,  as  they  acquire 
age  and  strength,  inure  them  to  bear  the  open  air  fully;  so  as  when 
they  arrive  at  from  two  or  three,  to  four  or  five  years  old,  they  may 
be  turned  out  into  the  open  ground.  The  sorts  requiring  this  treat- 
ment are  pointed  out  under  their  proper  heads  in  the  different 
months. 

The  green-house  kinds  of  all  sorts,  or  such  as  require  constant 
shelter  in  winter,  are  to  be  managed  as  directed  under  the  article 

GREEN-HOUSE. 

And  the  hot-house  or  stove-plants,  or  such  as  require  constant 
shelter  all  or  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  together  with  the  aid  of 
artificial  heat,  are  to  be  managed  as  exhibited  under  the  article 
HOT-HOUSE. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  NURSERY. 

Young  apple  and  pear-trees  may  now  be  pruned  agreeably  to  the 
rules  laid  down  in  March;  though  if  your  stock  of  these  is  not 
very  numerous,  and  that  you  are  desirous  to  have  so  much  work 
done  out  of  the  way  when  the  hurry  of  business  conies  on  in  spring, 
it  will  be  quite  as  well  to  defer  doing  it  till  the  end  of  February  or 
beginning  of  March. 

Trim  up  the  stems  of  forest  and  other  hardy  trees  where  they  re- 
quire it;  this  may  be  done  when  little  else  can  in  the  nursery;  for 
if  it  is  performed  in  frosty  weather  the  trees  will  receive  no  harm  by 
the  operation,  especially  the  hardy  deciduous  kinds. 

Carry  well-rotted  dung  or  compost,  and  lay  it  on  such  parts  of  the 
nursery  as  require  it.  This  may  be  necessary  to  such  particular 
quarters  as  have  been  lately  cleared,  and  that  are  intended  to  be 
planted  again  with  a  fresh  stock  in  autumn,  taking  off  a  summer 
crop  of  vegetables  previous  thereto;  and  when  the  frost  permits, 
let  it  be  trenched  in  regularly  one  full  spade  deep  at  least.  If  the 
necessity  requires  it  this  ground  may  be  planted  with  young  trees, 
&c.,  in  spring. 

In  severe  weather,  when  out-work  cannot  be  done,  make  label- 
sticks  ;  and  have  them  in  readiness  when  wanted,  to  mark  the  various 
kinds  and  varieties  of  fruit  and  forest-trees,  shrubs,  plants,  &c., 
which  you  intend  to  planter  propagate  in  spring ;  the  largest  to  mark 
rows  of  fruit-trees,  &c.,  should  be  about  the  size  of  a  coach-wheel 
spoke,  and  for  sake  of  durability,  made  of  white  oak,  or  some  other 
good  durable  wood,  with  the  numbers  marked  or  painted  thereon ; 
such  will  last  you  for  several  years  :  small  kinds  for  labelling  flowers, 
or  the  various  sorts  of  small  seeds  which  you  intend  to  sow,  may  be 
made  of  old  or  new  shingles,  or  pieces  of  good  pine,  cut  and  split  to 
such  lengths  as  you  desire ;  form  these  neatly,  and  when  you  are  go- 
ing to  use  them,  rub  one  side  of  the  upper  end  for  about  two  inches 
with  white  oil-color  paint;  on  which,  while  yet  wet,  write  your  num- 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  71 

bcr,  or  the  name  of  the  plant  at  full  length  with  a  black-lead  pencil; 
this  will  endure  any  kind  of  weather  for  one  year  at  least,  and  be 
legible  for  several  years,  when,  placed  in  pots,  with  GREEN- HOUSE  or 
HOT-HOUSE  plants. 

CARE  OF  TENDER  AND  YOUNG  SEEDLING  TREES. 

Take  great  care  now  of  all  the  tender  kinds  of  seedling  trees, 
shrubs,  and  other  young  plants  of  similar  quality  raised  from  seed, 
or  by  other  means,  last  year  or  before ;  many  kinds  will,  in  hard  frost, 
need  shelter,  particularly  the  young  seedling  plants  of  the  cedar  of 
Lebanon,  &c.,  China  arborvitse,  the  tender  kinds  of  pines  and  firs, 
and  the  seedling  plants  of  cypress,  and  such  like  kinds  of  young 
seedling  evergreens,  which  will  all  need  occasional  protection  in  severe 
weather :  and  therefore,  at  the  approach  of  the  first  hard  frost,  the 
pots  or  boxes,  &c.,  containing  them  should  be  removed  into  a  garden 
frame,  or  some  other  convenience  of  occasional  shelter,  and  in  the 
time  of  hard  frosts  the  glasses  and  other  covering  put  on ;  but  they 
must  be  kept  constantly  open  in  mild  weather,  when  it  can  be  done 
with  safety  to  the  plants. 

The  tender  seedling  plants  which  are  growing  in  beds,  and  require 
shelter  in  time  of  frost,  should  be  covered  at  such  time  with  mats ; 
first  erecting  some  hoops  across  the  bed,  and  the  mats  to  be  drawn 
over  them  occasionally  for  defence  of  the  plants. 

Likewise  some  of  the  more  hardy  kinds  of  young  plants  may  be 
sheltered  in  bad  weather  by  laying  some  straw,  fern,  or  long  dry  litter 
lightly  over  them ;  this  will  protect  the  tender  tops  and  roots  from 
the  frost. 

But  this  covering  must  not  be  suffered  to  remain  longer  than 
necessary  to  defend  the  plants. 

Likewise  any  curious  or  tender  young  evergreens,  &c.,  that  are 
planted  in  pots,  should  be  placed  under  shelter  in  severe  frosts;  such 
as  arbutus  or  strawberry  tree,  magnolia  grandiflora,  cistuses,  China 
arborvitae,  English  and  Portugal  laurels,  &c.,  placing  them  in  a 
frame,  or  where  they  may  be  defended  either  with  glasses,  mats  or 
other  covering  in  rigorous  weather. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

Dig  the  ground,  if  open  weather,  between  the  continuing  rows  of 
young  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  sorts. 

But  previous  to  performing  this  work,  give  any  necessary  pruning 
to  the  shrubs  and  trees,  especially  the  deciduous  kinds ;  then  let  the 
ground  be  digged  one  spade  deep :  as  you  go  on  trim  off  any  strag- 
gling roots  of  the  trees  and  shrubs ;  and  in  digging,  give  every  spit  a 
fair  turn  off  the  spade  that  the  weeds  on  the  surface  may  be  buried 
properly. 

Transplanting  of  young  forest  and  ornamental  trees  in  the  nursery, 
and  where  required,  may  be  performed  any  time  this  month  if  the 
weather  is  open  and  the  ground  not  too  wet. 

Particularly  deciduous  forest-trees,  &c.,  of  the  hardy  kinds,  may 


12  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

be  removed  any  time  this  month  if  mild  weather ;  but  this  should 
not  be  generally  practised  to  evergreens  this  season,  especially  where 
smart  frosts  may  be  expected  to  follow. 

Prune  honeysuckles  and  roses,  and  all  other  kinds  of  hardy  deci- 
duous flowering  shrubs  that  want  it,  training  each  with  a  single 
stem,  and  trimming  their  heads  as  you  shall  see  occasion ;  that  is, 
either  to  cut  out  or  shorten  all  straggling  shoots  in  such  manner  as 
you  shall  see  necessary  to  keep  their  heads  somewhat  to  a  regular 
form. 

In  open  and  settled  weather  you  may  now  transplant,  where  neces- 
sary, most  sorts  of  hardy  deciduous  flowering  shrubs,  both  in  the 
nursery  order,  and  for  shrubbery  plantations,  &c.,  in  a  dry  soil;  but 
where  the  soil  is  apt  to  lodge  wet  there  should  not  be  any  planted 
therein  before  February. 

Plantations  of  fruit-tree  stocks,  for  grafting  and  budding  upon, 
may  be  made  at  any  time  of  this  month,  if  mild  open  weather. 
Many  of  those  raised  from  seed,  &c.,  last  spring,  or  the  year  before, 
will  be  fit  for  this,  digging  them  up  out  of  the  seed-bed,  &c.,  with 
their  full  roots,  and  let  them  be  planted  in  nursery  rows,  three  or 
four  feet  asunder,  and  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  distant  from  each 
other  in  the  rows ;  and  when  they  have  attained  one  or  two  years' 
growth  in  these  rows,  will  be  proper  for  budding  and  grafting.  See 
the  Nursery  in  October  for  the  method  of  planting ;  that  of  March 
for  grafting,  and  July  and  August  for  budding. 

You  may  still  make  layers  in  open  weather  of  many  sorts  of  deci- 
duous trees  and  shrubs  that  you  desire  to  increase. 

This  work  of  laying  down  the  branches  of  shrubs  and  trees  to  pro- 
pagate them,  is  very  easily  performed ;  and  there  are  a  great  many 
kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  to  be  increased  by  this  operation,  in  the 
manner  following : — 

In  the  first  place  it  must  be  remarked,  that  the  young  branches 
that  were  produced  last  summer,  are  the  most  proper  parts  to  be 
layed ;  for  these  will  put  out  roots  more  freely  than  the  branches  that 
are  a  year  or  two  older.  Observing  further,  that  many  of  the  shrub 
kinds  branching  out  near  the  earth,  afford  an  opportunity  of  laying 
them  with  great  facility,  but  such  as  run  up  with  tall -stems,  and  those 
of  the  tree  kinds,  require  that  some  strong  young  plants,  principally 
deciduous,  with  stems  one,  two,  or  three  inches  thick,  be  cut  down 
near  the  ground  a  year  or  two  before  to  form  stools  to  furnish  a  sup- 
ply of  shoots  near  the  earth,  convenient  for  laying  therein.  The 
ground  must  be  dug  about  the  shrub  or  tree  that  is  to  be  layed ;  and 
as  you  go  on  bring  down  the  branches,  and  fasten  them  in  the  ground 
with  hooked  pegs,  observing  to  lay  down  all  the  young  wood  on  each 
branch  into  the  earth,  covering  therewith  the  body  of  each  layer  three 
or  four  inches  deep,  and  fastening  each  also  with  a  peg,  if  necessary, 
and  raise  the  tops  upright  out  of  the  earth. 

But  in  laying  some  hard-wooded  trees  and  shrubs  it  is  necessary 
to  slit  the  layer  by  making  a  gash  with  a  knife  on  the  under  side, 
slitting  it  an  inch  or  more  upward,  so  laying  that  part  in  the  earth, 
keeping  the  gash  a  little  open,  which  will  greatly  assist  the  rooting 
by  promoting  the  emission  of  fibres  at  the  cut  part.  And  this  may 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  T3 

also  be  performed  to  the  same  advantage  in  the  laying  of  trees  and 
shrubs  in  general.  Or  you  may  give  the  young  shoot  a  twist  in  that 
part  which  you  intend  laying  in  the  earth,  by  which  method  it  will 
root  more  freely  than  if  laid  down  without  it. 

Those  which  are  layed  in  this  or  next  month  will  be  tolerably  well 
rooted  by  next  autumn,  and  may  then  be  separated  from  the  tree, 
and  planted  in  the  nursery  to  get  strength. 

Cuttings  of  many  kinds  of  flowering  shrubs  and  trees  may  also  still 
be  planted  ;  and  there  are  vast  numbers  of  plants  that  may  be  propa- 
gated by  this  method.  There  is  hardly  any  tree  or  shrub  but  what 
may  be  increased  either  by  this  method,  or  by  layers  or  suckers  from 
the  root. 

The  manner  of  propagating  trees  or  shrubs  by  cuttings  is  this : 
the  cuttings  must  be  young  shoots  of  the  last  year's  growth,  which 
must  be  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  from  the  tree  or  shrub  you  desire  to 
propagate  j  they  must  be  from  about  six  or  eight  to  twelve  or  fifteen 
inches  long,  according  to  their  strength  and  manner  of  growth ;  let 
them  be  planted  in  rows  eighteen  inches  asunder,  and  from  five  to 
eight  inches  distance  in  the  row,  and  every  cutting  inserted  two- 
thirds  of  its  length  into  the  ground. 

Propagate  gooseberries  and  currants  by  cuttings,  as  directed  in 
October ;  and  prune  such  of  the  old  plants  as  require  it,  agreeably 
to  the  directions  given  in  this  and  that  month. 

In  open  weather,  you  should,  as  much  as  possible,  forward  the 
digging  and  trenching  vacant  compartments  of  ground,  where  young 
trees  and  shrubs  are  to  be  planted  in  this  and  next  month. 

Now  prepare  some  ground  where  it  is  not  wet,  for  the  reception  of 
stones  and  kernels  of  hardy  fruits,  to  raise  a  supply  of  stocks  for  the 
purpose  of  budding  and  grafting  upon. 

These  may  be  sown  any  time  this  month,  observing  to  sow  them 
in  beds  four  feet  wide ;  cover  the  stones  an  inch  and  a  half  deep  with 
earth,  and  the  kernels  half  an  inch :  the  plants  will  appear  in  March, 
April,  and  May,  when  they  must  be  kept  clean  from  weeds,  and  mode- 
rate watering  in  dry  weather  will  be  serviceable  when  they  are  newly 
come  up.  Some  of  them  will  be  fit  for  transplanting  in  nursery  rows 
next  November. 

Sow  the  various  kinds  of  hawthorn,  holly,  red  cedar,  yew,  meze- 
reon,  juniper,  sweet  bay,  English  and  Portugal  laurel  berries  j  like- 
wise the  seeds  of  hornbeam,  ash,  spindle-tree,  bladder-nut,  and  all 
the  other  kinds  of  tree  and  shrub  seeds  which  require  a  year's  prepa- 
ration previous  to  sowing,  as  noticed  in  February.  The  sooner  now 
these  kinds  of  seeds  are  sown  the  better,  provided  the  ground  be  dry, 
and  that  it  works  loose  and  light. 

For  particular  instructions  respecting  the  sowing  of  these  seeds, 
&c.,  see  February  and  March. 


*\ 

THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 


THE    PLEASURE,   OR    FLOWER  GARDEN. 

ORNAMENTAL  DESIGNS  AND  PLANTING. 

The  district  commonly  called  the  Pleasure,  or  Flower  Garden,  or 
pleasure-ground,  may  be  said  to  comprehend  all  ornamental  compart- 
ments or  divisions  of  ground  surrounding  the  mansion ;  consisting 
of  lawns,  plantations  of  trees  and  shrubs,  flower  compartments,  walks, 
pieces  of  water,  &c.,  whether  situated  wholly  within  the  space  gene- 
rally considered  as  the  pleasure-garden,  or  extended  to  the  adjacent 
fields,  parks,  or  other  out-grounds. 

In  designs  for  a  pleasure-ground,  according  to  modern  gardening, 
consulting  rural  disposition  in  imitation  of  nature,  all  too  formal 
works  being  almost  abolished,  such  as  long  straight  walks,  regular 
intersections,  square  grass-plats,  corresponding  parterres,  quadrangu- 
lar and  angular  spaces,  and  other  uniformities,  as  in  ancient  designs  ; 
instead  of  which  are  now  adopted  rural  open  spaces  of  grass-ground, 
of  various  forms  and  dimensions,  and  winding  walks,  all  bounded 
with  plantations  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  in  various  clumps  ; 
other  compartments  are  exhibited  in  a  variety  of  imitative  rural  forms, 
such  as  curves,  projections,  openings  and  closings  in  imitation  of  na- 
tural assemblage;  having  all  the  various  plantations  and  borders 
open  to  the  walks  and  lawns. 

For  instance,  a  grand  and  spacious  open  lawn  of  grass-ground  is 
generally  first  presented  immediately  to  the  front  of  the  mansion,  or 
main  habitation;  sometimes  widely  extended  on  both  sides  to  admit 
of  a  greater  prospect,  &c.,  and  sometimes  more  contracted  towards 
the  habitation ;  widening  gradually  outwards,  and  having  each  side 
embellished  with  plantations  of  shrubbery,  clumps,  thickets,  &c.,  in 
sweeps,  curves,  and  projections  towards  the  lawn,  with  breaks  or 
opens  of  grass-spaces  at  intervals  between  the  different  plantations ; 
together  with  serpentine  gravel  walks,  winding  under  the  shade  of 
the  trees  :  extended  plantations  ought  also  to  be  carried  round  next 
the  outer  boundary  of  the  pleasure-ground,  when  extensive;  in  various 
openings  and  closings,  having  gravel  walks  winding  through  them, 
for  shady  and  private  walking;  and  in  the  interior  divisions  of 
the  ground,  serpentine  winding  walks  and  elegant  grass  openings, 
ranged  various  ways,  all  bordered  with  shrubberies  and  other  tree  and 
shrub  plantations,  flower  compartments,  &c.,  disposed  in  a  variety  of 
different  rural  forms ;  in  easy  bendings,  concaves  and  straight  ranges, 
occasionally;  with  intervening  breaks  or  opens  of  grass-ground,  both 
to  promote  rural  diversity  and  for  communication  and  prospect  to  the 
different  divisions;  all  the  parts  of  the  pleasure-ground  being  so  ar- 
ranged, as  gradually  to  discover  new  scenes,  each  furnishing  fresh 
variety,  both  in  the  form  of  the  design  in  different  parts,  as  well  as 
in  the  disposition  of  the  various  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  and  other 
ornaments  and  diversities. 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  75 

In  designs  for  a  pleasure-ground,  according  to  modern  taste,  a 
tract  of  ground  of  any  considerable  extent  may  have  the  prospect 
varied  and  diversified  exceedingly,  in  a  beautiful  representation  of 
art  and  nature,  as  that  in  passing  from  one  compartment  to  another, 
still  new  varieties  present  themselves  in  the  most  agreeable  manner ; 
and  even  if  the  figure  of  the  ground  is  irregular,  and  the  surface  has 
many  inequalities,-  the  whole  may  be  improved  without  any  great 
trouble  of  squaring  or  levelling  j  for  by  humoring  the  natural  form, 
you  may  cause  even  the  very  irregularities  and  natural  deformities 
to  carry  along  with  them  an  air  of  diversity  and  novelty  which  fail 
not  to  please  and  entertain  most  observers. 

In  these  rural  works,  however,  we  should  not  abolish  entirely  the 
appearance  of  art  and  uniformity;  for  these,  when  properly  applied, 
give  an  additional  beauty  and  peculiar  grace  to  all  our  natural  pro- 
ductions, and  set  nature  in  the  fairest  and  most  beautiful  point  of 
view. 

But  some  modern  pleasure-grounds,  in  which  rural  design  is  copied 
to  an  extreme,  are  often  very  barren  of  variety  and  entertainment,  as 
they  frequently  consist  only  of  a  grass  lawn,  like  a  great  field,  having 
a  running  plantation  of  trees  and  shrubs  all  round  it,  just  broad 
enough  to  admit  a  gravel  walk  winding  through  it,  in  the  serpentine 
way,  in  many  short  twists  and  turns,  and  bordering  at  every  turn 
alternately  upon  the  outward  fence  and  the  lawn;  which  are  con- 
tinually obtruded  upon  the  sight,  exhibiting  the  same  prospect  over 
and  over,  without  the  least  variation;  so  as  that  after  having  tra- 
versed the  walks  all  around  this  sort  of  pleasure-ground,  we  find  no 
more  variety  or  entertainment  than  at  our  first  entrance,  the  whole 
having  presented  itself  at  the  first  view. 

Therefore,  in  laying  out  pleasure-ground,  the  designer  ought  to 
take  particular  care  that  the  whole  extent  be  not  taken  in  at  one 
view ;  only  exhibiting  at  first  a  large  open  lawn  or  other  spacious 
open  compartment,  or  grand  walk,  &c.,  terminated  on  each  side  with 
plantations  of  curious  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  exhibiting  only  some 
openings  at  intervals,  and  behind  these  have  compartments  of  the 
like  plantations,  with  grass  openings,  gravel  walks,  water,  and  other 
ornaments ;  so  that  a  spectator  will  be  agreeably  surprised  to  find 
that  what  terminated  his  prospect  only  served  as  an  introduction  to 
new  beauties  and  varieties. 

It  is  impossible  to  exhibit  any  regular  direction  for  planning  an 
extensive  pleasure-ground,  as  the  different  figures  and  situations,  &c., 
of  the  ground  may  require  different  designs,  therefore  general  hints 
only  can  be  given. 

SKETCH  OF  THE  DESIGN. 

The  following  general  sketch  may  be  varied  according  to  the  situa- 
tion and  extent  of  the  ground,  and  may  be  useful  to  persons  who  are 
inexperienced  in  designs  of  the  kind. 

•  With  respect  to  situation,  this  must  be  immediately  contiguous  to 
the  mansion  house,  whether  high  or  low  situated ;  remarking,  how- 
ever, that  a  somewhat  elevated  situation,  or  the  side  or  summit  of 


76  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

some  moderate  rising  ground  is  always  the  most  eligible  on  which  to 
erect  the  chief  habitation,  arranging  the  pleasure-ground  accordingly; 
such  an  exposure  being  the  most  desirable,  both  for  the  beauty  of 
the  prospect  and  healthfulness  of  the  air :  there  are,  however,  some 
level  situations,  forming  plains  or  flats,  that  possess  great  advantages 
both  of  soil  and  prospect,  and  also  the  beauties  of  water,  without  too 
copious  damps  or  moisture;  there  are  also  some  large  tracts  of 
ground,  consisting  both  of  low  and  high  situations,  as  level  plains, 
hollows,  eminences,  declivities,  and  other  inequalities,  which  may  be 
so  improved  as  to  make  a  most  desirable  pleasure-garden,  as  the 
scene  may  be  varied  in  the  most  beautiful  manner. 

The  extent  of  pleasure-ground  may  be  varied  according  to  that 
of  the  estate  or  premises,  and  the  fortune  of  the  owner;  so  may  be 
from  even  a  quarter  or  half  an  acre  to  thirty,  forty,  or  more. 

The  ground  should  be  previously  fenced,  which  may  be  occasion- 
ally a  hedge,  paling,  or  wall,  &c.,  as  most  convenient. 

With  respect  to  the  arrangement  of  the  several  divisions,  the  fol- 
lowing general  sketches  are  on  a  supposition  of  a  considerable  tract 
of  ground;  and  if  the  piece  of  ground  is  small,  greater  simplicity  of 
design  must  be  observed. 

First,  an  open  lawn  of  grass-ground  is  extended  on  one  of  the 
principal  fronts  of  the  mansion  or  main  house,  widening  gradually 
from  the  house  outward,  having  each  side  bounded  by  various  planta- 
tions of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  in  clumps,  thickets,  &c.,  exhibited 
in  a  variety  of  rural  forms  in  moderate  concave  and  convex  curves 
and  projections,  to  prevent  all  appearance  of  a  stiff  uniformity ;  in- 
troducing between  the  plantations,  at  intervals,  breaks  or  openings  of 
grass-ground  communicating  with  the  lawn  and  internal  divisions,  in 
some  places  widely  spread,  in  others  more  contracted ;  leaving  also 
tracts  for  serpentine  gravel-walks,  some  winding  under  the  shade  of 
the  plantations,  so  conducted  as  to  command  views  of  the  lawn  and 
interior  divisions  occasionally,  and  at  intervals  of  the  most  beautiful 
parts  of  the  surrounding  country. 

This  ground  must  be  more  contracted  as  it  approaches  near  the 
mansion,  that  company  may  the  sooner  arrive  in  the  walks  of  the 
shrubbery,  wilderness,  &c.,  under  the  shade  and  shelter  of  trees; 
but  the  outward  extension  on  each  boundary  should  widen  gradually 
towards  the  extreme  termination,  to  give  an  air  of  grandeur,  and 
admit  of  a  full  prospect  from  and  to  the  mansion. 

Each  boundary  must  be  planted  with  a  choice  variety  of  orna- 
mental trees  and  shrubs,  deciduous,  and  evergreens,  arranged  prin- 
cipally in  several  clumps;  some  consisting  of  lofty  trees,  others  being 
entirely  of  the  shrub  kinds,  and  consisting  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  her- 
baceous plants  together ;  in  all  of  which  arrange  the  taller  growing 
kinds  backward,  and  the  lower  forward,  according  to  their  gradation 
of  height,  embellishing  the  front  with  the  more  curious  low  flowering 
shrubs  and  evergreens,  interspersed  with  various  herbaceous  flowering 
perennials,  all  open  to  the  lawn  and  walks. 

In  the  general  arrangement,  the  great  art  is  to  vary  the  prospect 
of  the  different  divisions  so  as  they  may  variously  present  an  air  of 
novelty  and  source  of  convenience  and  entertainment. 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  f  if 

Around  towards  the  outward  boundary  fence  is  generally  arranged 
a  plantation  of  trees  and  shrubs,  in  varied  easy  sweeps,  and  broad 
enough  to  admit  of  a  serpentine  walk  through  the  whole  extent, 
under  cover  of  these  trees  and  shrubs,  for  private  and  shady  walk- 
ing; with  breaks  and  openings  here  and  there  to  admit  of  prospects, 
both  to  the  lawn  and  surrounding  country. 

In  various  parts  of  the  pleasure-ground  leave  recesses  and  other 
places  surrounded  with  clumps  of  trees  and  shrubs  for  the  erection 
of  garden  edifices,  such  as  temples,  grottos,  rural  seats,  statues,  &c. ; 
and  if  water  from  some  upper  spring  or  head  can  be  led  in  a  winding 
course  through  the  lower  parts  in  gentle  meanders,  it  will  have  a 
charming  effect. 

Other  internal  divisions  appear  with  an  air  of  grandeur  and  mag- 
nificence when  exhibiting  a  spacious  opening  of  grass- ground,  bounded 
by  the  noblest  trees  and  shrubs  in  various,  elegant  clumps,  groves, 
groups,  and  straight  ranges,  and  the  opening  terminated  by  some 
fine  open  prospect,  grand  piece  of  water,  or  ornamental  building. 

Another  part  shall  appear  more  gay  and  sprightly,  displaying  an 
elegant  flower-ground  or  flower-garden,  designed  somewhat  in  the 
parterre  way,  in  various  beds,  borders,  and  other  divisions,  furnished 
with  the  most  curious  flowers,  and  the  boundary  decorated  with  an 
arrangement  of  various  clumps  of  the  most  beautiful  flowering  shrubs 
and  lively  evergreens ;  each  clump  also  bordered  with  a  variety  of 
the  herbaceous  flowery  tribe. 

Another  division,  sometimes  to  diversify  the  scenery,  presents  a 
wilderness  in  irregular  partitions  of  plantations,  having  intervening 
spaces  of  grass-ground  and  gravel  walks  extended  in  various  direc- 
tions ;  some  by  winding  mazes  or  labyrinths  into  openings  formed  in 
different  parts ;  the  boundary  plantation  of  this  division  being  gener- 
ally planted  in  close  assemblage  with  serpentine  walks  between; 
some  leading  in  private  meanders  towards  the  interior  parts,  or 
breaking  out  sometimes  into  other  walks  that  are  open  and  spacious, 
both  of  grass  and  gravel  occasionally,  conducted  in  serpentine  turns 
to  cause  the  greater  variety ;  some  places  being  closely  bordered  with 
tall  trees  to  effect  a  gloominess  and  perfect  shade;  the  different  walks 
leading  now  and  then  into  circular  openings,  each  being  surrounded 
with  plantations  as  aforesaid,  making  the^principal  walks  terminate 
in  a  grand  opening  in  the  centre  of  the  wilderness,  in  which  may  be 
some  ornamental  edifice  or  fine  piece  of  water,  &c. 

Straight  ranges  of  the  most  stately  trees  are  sometimes  arranged 
on  grass-ground  in  different  parts,  in  contrast  with  irregular  planta- 
tions, and  produce  a  most  agreeable  effect,  which,  though  prohibited 
in  many  modern  designs,  always  exhibit  an  air  of  grandeur;  being 
arranged  sometimes  in  single  rows,  others  double,  or  two  ranges  at 
certain  distances,  forming  a  grand  walk :  in  other  parts,  several 
regular  ranges  of  trees  together,  in  the  manner  of  groves ;  the  whole 
combined,  forming  a  diversity  pleasing  to  the  senses,  and  conducive 
to  health  by  exciting  to  the  salutary  exercise  of  walking. 

In  other  parts  are  sometimes  discovered  eminences  or  rising 
grounds,  as  a  high  terrace,  mount,  steep  declivity,  or  other  eminence, 
ornamented  with  curious  trees  and  shrubs,  with  walks  leading  under 


18  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

the  shade  of  trees,  by  easy  ascents,  to  the  summit,  where  is  presented 
to  the  view  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  adjacent  fields,  buildings, 
hamlets,  and  country  around,  and  likewise  affording  a  fresh  and  cool- 
ing air  in  summer. 

Regular  compartments  and  figures,  in  various  forms,  are  also  some- 
times introduced  in  some  extensive  grounds  for  variety,  in  contrast 
with  the  irregular  works,  and  still  to  preserve  some  appearance  of 
the  remains  of  ancient  gardening;  such  as  straight  walks  verged  with 
borders,  square  spaces,  circles  and  octagons,  &c.,  inclosed  with  low 
clipped  hedges,  hedge-work  formed  into  various  devices,  detached 
evergreens  formed  into  pyramids  and  other  regular  figures,  regular 
grass-slopes  formed  on  the  side  of  some  declivity  or  rising  ground, 
elevated  terraces,  clumps  of  trees  surrounded  with  low  evergreen 
hedges,  straight  avenues  of  trees  in  ranges,  &c. ;  a  little  of  each  being 
judiciously  disposed  in  different  situations,  may  prove  an  agreeable 
variety  by  diversifying  the  scene  in  contrast  with  the  rural  works 
before  mentioned. 

Sometimes  a  bleak  declivity,  rocky  ground,  or  rough  vale  is  made 
to  exhibit  a  wild  and  uncultivated  scene,  and  tends  to  set  off  the  im- 
proved parts  to  great  advantage. 

Pieces  of  water  are  always,  where  possible,  exhibited  in  the  most 
conspicuous  points  contiguous  to  the  termination  of  the  main  lawn  or 
other  spacious  openings,  representing  sometimes  a  lake,  basin,  Ac., 
and  sometimes  a  natural  river  winding  its  course  through  different 
divisions,  and  its  termination  concealed  by  a  curious  turn,  making  it 
appear  to  lose  itself  in  the  adjacent  plantations. 

With  respect  to  the  walks,  some  ought  to  be  made  of  gravel  and 
some  of  grass ;  the  former  for  common  walking  and  the  latter  for 
occasionally  walking  in  the  heat  of  summer,  which,  in  dry,  hot 
weather,  may  be  more  agreeable  than  the  gravel  walks ;  therefore, 
some  of  each  sort  is  proper  both  for  convenience  and  variety. 

Gravel  walks,  however,  should  lead  all  round  the  pleasure-ground 
and  into  the  principal  internal  divisions,  so  as  to  have  dry  and  firm 
walking  at  all  times  of  the  year;  for  frequently,  but  particularly  in 
winter  and  in  wet  weather,  grass  walks  are  very  uncomfortable  and 
even  .unhealthy  to  walk  on.  These  walks  should  be  of  proportional 
width  in  different  parts,  and  larger  and  smaller  in  proportion  to  the 
extent  of  the  ground. 

As  to  the  distribution  of  gravel  walks — first  a  magnificent  one, 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  or  thirty  feet  wide,  should  range  immediately 
close  and  parallel  to  the  front  of  the  house,  and  be  conducted  directly 
across  the  lawn  into  the  nearest  side  shrubberies ;  from  this  main 
walk  other  smaller  ones,  from  five  to  ten  or  fifteen  feet  wide,  accord- 
ing to  the  extent  of  the  ground,  should  branch  off  at  proper  intervals, 
directed  in  the  serpentine  way — some  leading  through  the  outer 
boundary  plantations  as  already  hinted — others  into  the  internal  di- 
visions, and  others  carried  along  the  boundary  plantation  of  the  main 
lawn  ;  all  of  which  walks  being  conducted  through  the  different  parts 
in  order  to  afford  the  convenience  of  shade  and  retirement  occasion- 
ally, as  well  as  to  enjoy  the  variety  of  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers, 
variously  presenting  themselves  at  different  turnings:  for  the  walks 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  79 

having  various  sweeps  and  windings  discovering,  only  a  moderate 
length  at  once,  every  turning  produces  new  varieties,  and  should  like- 
wise be  so  contrived  as  at  proper  intervals  to  discover  openings  for 
prospects  into  different  principal  divisions  of  the  ground,  having  in 
some  places  the  plantation  of  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers  bordering  close 
upon  the  walks ;  in  other  parts  have  on  one  side  of  the  walks  con- 
siderable grass  spaces  running  into  the  plantation  in  one  or  more  con- 
cave curves,  to  form  the  greater  diversity. 

In  some  places  the  winding  of  walks  should  be  gradual  and  mode- 
rate ;  in  others,  exhibit  sudden  turns  and  sweeps — some  displaying 
magnificent  projections  in  the  plantation;  others,  spacious  openings 
bordered  with  curious  plants ;  in  other  parts  a  close  thicket,  which 
sometimes  may  seem  to  terminate  the  walk,  when  by  a  sudden  turn 
it  breaks  out  all  at  once  into  some  grand  open  division,  spacious  open 
walk,  an  avenue  or  elegant  piece  of  water,  open  groves,  &c.  ;  and  in 
other  parts  a  walk  suddenly  divides  into  two  or  three  divisions  lead- 
ing different  ways  in  gradual  sweeps,  each  separation  being  formed 
by  a  projecting  clump  of  shrubbery  work  or  group  of  trees,  &c.,  and 
each  division  of  the  walk  is  conducted  by  such  varied  serpentine 
turns  as  soon  to  be  concealed  from  the  other  by  the  intervening  com- 
partments. 

Sometimes,  a  spacious  gravel  walk  is  extended  in  a  perpendicular 
line  immediately  from  the  front  of  the  house  dividing  the  lawn,  or 
extended  on  both  boundaries  and  in  other  directions,  with  a  wide 
border  on  each  side,  either  straight  or  sometimes  a  little  serpentined, 
and  planted  with  the  most  curious  low  flowering  shrubs,  evergreens 
and  herbaceous  flowering  plants. 

All  these  gravel  walks  should  be  laid  with  the  best  gravel,  six  or 
eight  inches  deep  at  least,  but  if  more  the  better. 

All  the  open  grass  spaces  may  be  considered  as  grass  walks, 
whether  formed  in  the  manner  of  walks,  or  as  breaks  or  divisions 
between  the  various  plantations,  all  of  which  serving  both  for  com- 
munication to  different  parts  and  to  render  the  ground  more  rurally 
ornamental,  and  for  occasional  walking  in  dry  weather  in  summer; 
but  some  tracts  of  considerable  width  and  length  formed  into  grass 
walks  leading  to  different  divisions,  having  each  side  bounded  with 
clumps  of  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  gives  an  air  of  grandeur  to  the 
place,  allotting  smaller  breaks  or  opens  of  grass  branching  off  be- 
tween the  plantation  compartments,  as  formerly  mentioned. 

The  grass-ground  may  be  formed  either  by  sowing  grass  seed  or 
by  laying  it  with  turf,  cut  from  some  common ;  but  in  extensive 
works  turfing  the  whole  would  be  an  endless  expense ;  therefore  seed 
is  the  most  eligible  for  the  principal  space  in  very  large  gardens. 

Water  being  so  ornamental  in  all  garden  designs,  no  pains  should 
be  spared  to  introduce  it  where  possible ;  but  where  it  admits  of  a 
constant  running  stream  from  some  adjacent  upper  spring,  its  beauties 
may  be  rendered  admirably  fine,  as  it  may  be  conducted  in  meanders 
through  the  plantation,  so  as  to  effect  a  beautiful  assemblage  of 
verdure  and  water  together;  and  if  it  should  be  continued  to  any 
considerable  length,  one  or  more  ornamental  Chinese  bridges  may  be 
carried  over  it  at  convenient  places,  which  will  have  a  beautiful  effect 


80  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

and  serve  for  communication  with  the  opposite  divisions  on  each  side 
of  the  rivulet. 

Cascades  and  other  waterfalls  have  also  a  fine  effect,  where  there 
is  a  constant  plentiful  stream  and  the  situation  proper  to  give  the 
water  a  due  fall  from  a  higher  to  a  lower  part,  upon  a  parcel  of 
rugged  stones,  to  increase  the  noise  and  break  and  disperse  the 
water. 

In  some  grounds,  by  their  natural  situations,  water  may  be  ob- 
tained at  a  moderate  expense;  as  sometimes  a  contiguous  vale  or 
meadow,  bounded  by  rising  ground,  and  with  a  brook  or  rivulet  con- 
stantly running  through  it,  may  be  easily  thrown  into  the  most  agree- 
able form  ;  and  sometimes  large  springs  issuing  from  an  upper  ground, 
and  running  down  a  moderate  descent  between  two  rising  grounds  to 
some  vale  below,  may  either  form  one  entire  lake,  &c.,  or  be  contrived 
by  making  proper  heads  at  distances  to  form  several  lakes  strung 
together,  as  it  were,  one  above  another,  up  to  the  beginning  of  the 
spring;  each  head  may  form  a  beautiful  waterfall  or  cascade,  having 
the  rising  grounds  on  each  side  embellished  with  plantation  clumps. 

Lakes  and  artificial  rivers  may  also  be  contrived  in  a  flat  or  level 
ground,  where  there  are  any  contiguous  brooks  that  can  be  conducted 
to  supply  them  with  water. 

All  pieces  of  water  should  generally  be  contrived  in  a  natural  imita- 
tion, as  much  as  the  situation  will  admit ;  and  its  boundary  on  all 
sides  should  be  grass-ground  to  some  considerable  width,  sloped  off  as 
easy  as  possible,  corresponding  with  the  other  adjacent  grass-ground, 
to  admit  of  a  prospect  of  the  water  at  some  distance. 

On  the  verges  of  large  compartments  of  water,  some  Babylonian 
or  Weeping  Willows,  disposed  in  particular  situations,  singly  at  dis- 
tances, sometimes  in  concave  and- projecting  parts,  terminations,  &c., 
will  have  a  very  agreeable  effect  in  their  long,  bending,  arched 
branches,  and  numerous  pendulous  shoots,  suspended  over  the  water 
in  a  loose  waving  manner,  sometimes  sweeping  the  surface  thereof; 
and  when  arrived  to  some  considerable  growth  in  their  numerous  low 
pendent  branches  suspended  all  round,  display  an  air  of  peculiar 
solemn  grandeur. 

The  various  compartments  of  ground  intended  for  the  different 
plantations  should  be  digged  or  trenched  for  the  reception  of  the 
plants,  particularly  for  all  plantations  of  shrubbery,  and  wilderness 
quarters,  flower  compartments,  &c. ;  and  the  ground  for  clumps 
should,  if  not  thought  too  expensive,  be  raised  above  the  common 
level  in  a  gentle  swell ;  especially  all  detached  compartments,  such 
as  shrubbery  clumps,  and  flower  partitions ;  and  most  other  detached 
compartments  of  ground  for  any  kind  of  ornamental  planting  in  gar- 
dens. These  should  generally  be  raised  in  a  moderate  rounding 
swell  gradually  from  each  side  to  the  middle ;  or  for  any  continued 
side  plantation,  it  may  be  raised  in  a  gentle  slope ;  for  the  swelling 
and  sloping  figure  always  strikes  the  eye  the  most  agreeably,  as  well 
as  shows  the  plants  to  the  best  advantage. 

But  where  intended  to  have  groves  of  stately  trees,  or  any  straight 
ranges  of  trees,  either  single  or  double  lines,  forming  a  walk  or  ave- 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  81 

cue,  it  is  most  in  character  to  dispose  them  all  on  grass-ground,  in 
which  they  will  appear  most  rural  and  beautiful. 

Likewise  elegant  ornamental  trees,  both  as  single  standards  and 
in  detached  groups  or  clumps,  appear  the  most  beautiful  when  dis- 
posed on  spacious  openings  of  grass-ground. 

All  the  plantation  compartments  of  shrubbery,  wilderness,  &c., 
should  be  planted  with  some  considerable  variety  of  different  sorts  of 
trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  artfully  disposed  in  various  arrangements ; 
the  tallest  behind,  the  lowest  forward,  and  the  different  sorts  so  in- 
termixed as  to  display  a  beautiful  diversity  of  foliage  and  flowers, 
disposing  the  more  curious  kinds  contiguous  to  the  principal  walks 
and  lawns. 

As  trees  and  shrubs  are  of  two  different  tribes,  deciduous  and 
evergreen  kinds,  those  of  each  tribe  should  be  mostly  planted  in 
separate  clumps,  in  which  they  will  effect  the  most  agreeable  variety ; 
and  in  some  places  exhibit  clumps  composed  of  both  sorts  to  cause 
the  greater  diversity ;  and  many  of  the  most  conspicuous  deciduous 
compartments  may  be  embellished  towards  the  fronts  with  some 
showy  evergreens,  thinly  dispersed,  which  will  appear  ornamental 
and  lively  in  winter,  when  the  deciduous  plants  are  destitute  of 
leaves. 

In  planting  the  several  shrubbery  clumps,  &c.,  some  may  be 
entirely  of  trees,  but  the  greater  part  an  assemblage  of  trees  and 
shrubs  together;  some  entirely  of  the  low  shrub  kind,  in  different 
situations,  between  and  in  front  of  the  larger  growths;  likewise 
should  intersperse  most  of  the  shrubbery  and  wilderness  compart- 
ments with  a  variety  of  hardy  herbaceous  flowery  plants  of  different 
growths,  having  also  here  and  there  clumps  entirely  of  herbaceous 
perennials  :  the  distribution  or  arrangement  of  the  clumps  and  other 
divisions  of  the  different  kinds,  both  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers, 
should  be  so  diversified  as  to  exhibit  a  proper  contrast,  and  a  curious 
variation  of  the  general  scene. 

And  in  the  disposing  the  various  trees,  shrubs,  and  other  plants 
in  their  respective  compartments,  observe,  for  the  most  part,  to  place 
the  tallest  towards  the  middle  or  back  part,  and  the  lower  forward 
towards  the  front,  according  to  their  natural  stature  of  growth ;  ob- 
serving also  to  intermix  the  different  sorts  in  each  clump,  &c.,  in  such 
order  as  to  display  a  diversity  of  different  foliage  and  flowers  as  afore- 
said, as  well  as  to  exhibit  a  conspicuous  variety.  Likewise  placing 
the  various  sorts  at  such  proportionable  distances  and  dispositions 
according  to  their  various  growths  as  each  may  have  full  scope  to 
spread  its  head,  and  so  as  the  prospect  of  one  may  be  no  interruption 
or  impediment  to  the  growth  and  appearance  of  another,  but  all  so 
judiciously  arranged  as  to  set  off  each  other  and  appear  distinct,  and 
to  proper  advantage  from  the  contiguous  lawns,  walks,  and  other 
divisions. 

In  planting  any  continued   or  running  plantation  where  shady 

walks  are  designed,  particular  care  is  requisite  in  arranging  a  due 

share  of  the  taller  trees  and  shrubs  nearer  the  walks ;  and  in  such 

order  as  to  produce  the  desired  effect ;  particularly  in  the  continued 

6 


82  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

plantation  of  shrubbery-work  around  the  outward  boundary  and 
other  running  plantations. 

These  plantations  for  shady  walks  are  highly  necessary  to  retire 
to  occasionally  for  shelter  from  the  various  changes  and  injuries  of 
the  weather;  they  afford  shade  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sum- 
mer's sun,  shelter  from  tempestuous  winds  and  cold  blasts,  and  op- 
portunity for  private  and  contemplative  walking,  almost  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year. 

But  where  very  close  and  gloomy  shade  is  required  in  any  particu- 
lar parts  for  diversity,  some  trees  and  tall  shrubs  should  be  arranged 
nearer  to  the  verge  of  the  walks,  backed  and  fronted  with  a  variety 
of  hardy  shrubs,  in  such  order  as  to  produce  the  desired  effect. 

The  planting  in  groves  and  avenues  should  consist  principally  of 
the  tree  kind,  and  such  as  are  of  straight  and  handsome  growth, 
with  the  most  branchy,  full,  regular  heads,  and  may  be  both  of  the 
deciduous  and  evergreen  tribes,  but  generally  arranged  separately; 
groves  and  avenues  should  always  be  in  some  spacious  open  space, 
formed  into  grass-ground,  either  before  or  after  planting  the  trees  ; 
and  in  planting  the  groves  it  is  most  eligible  to  arrange  the  trees  in 
lines,  in  some  places  straight  rows,  others  in  gentle  bendings,  or 
easy  sweeps,  having  the  rows  at  some  considerable  distance,  that  the 
trees  may  have  full  scope  to  display  their  branchy  heads  regularly 
around ;  and  in  some  places  may  have  close  groves  to  form  a  perfect 
shade. 

Avenues  and  walks  of  trees  may  be  formed  either  entirely  of  de- 
ciduous trees,  or  of  evergreens ;  but  the  deciduous  kinds  are  in  most 
estimation  for  this  purpose ;  however,  avenues  and  grass  walks, 
planted  with  fine  evergreen  trees,  make  a  beautiful  appearance,  and 
will  always  command  admiration.  In  both  sorts  the  trees  are  most 
commonly  disposed  in  rows,  one  on  each  side  of  the  avenue,  though 
sometimes  grand  walks  of  trees  may  be  both  in  single  straight  lines 
and  in  double  rows,  to  exhibit  the  greater  variety;  planting  the 
trees  generally,  both  in  avenues  and  walks,  at  proper  distances,  to 
have  full  scope  to  branch  out  regularly  around  and  display  their 
beautiful  heads  and  foliage. 

Thickets  may  be  composed  of  all  sorts  of  hardy  deciduous  trees 
planted  close  and  promiscuously,  and  with  various  common  shrubs 
interspersed  between  them,  as  underwood,  to  make  them  more  or  less 
close  in  different  parts,  as  the  designer  may  think  proper.  They 
may  also  be  of  evergreen  trees,  particularly  of  the  pine  and  fir  kinds, 
interspersed  with  various  low-growing  evergreen  shrubs. 

In  some  open  spaces  of  grass-ground,  such  as  spacious  open  lawns, 
or  other  considerable  open  fields,  &c.,  you  should  dispose  some  of  the 
most  beautiful  trees  and  elegant  shrubs  detached,  both  separately  as 
standards  or  single  objects,  and  in  groups,  from  two  or  three,  to  five, 
ten,  or  more,  in  different  groups  or  clumps,  some  irregularly,  others 
in  curves,  straight  lines,  &c.,  for  variety ;  arranging  both  single  stand- 
ards and  groups  a  considerable  distance  asunder,  not  to  obstruct  the 
prospect,  and  at  such  varied  distances  as  if  they  had  grown  there  by 
chance. 

It  very  frequently  happens  that  on  the  spot  or  tract  which  is  de- 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  83 

signed  for  a  pleasure-ground,  are  found  large  stately  trees  of  con- 
siderable standing,  properly  situated  to  be  introduced  into  the  design ; 
and  sometimes  numbers  in  suitable  assemblages  for  constituting 
groves  or  thickets,  and  some  for  single  standing  groups  or  clumps, 
&c. ;  these  should  be  preserved  with  the  utmost  care,  as  it  would  re- 
quire many  years  to  form  the  like  with  young  plantations;  and  al- 
though the  trees  should  stand  ever  so  close,  irregular,  or  straggling, 
with  proper  address  in  thinning  and  regulating  them,  where  neces- 
sary, they  may  be  made  to  become  beautifully  ornamental  to  the 
place,  and  to  prevent  ai  considerable  expense. 

In  some  spacious  pleasure-grounds,  various  light  ornamental  build- 
ings are  introduced  as  ornaments  to  particular  departments ;  such  as 
temples,  bowers,  banqueting-houses,  alcoves,  grottos,  rural  seats, 
cottages,  fountains,  obelisks,  statues,  and  other  edifices  ;  these,  and 
the  like,  are  usually  erected  in  the  different  parts,  in  openings  be- 
tween the  divisions  of  the  ground,  and  contiguous  to  the  termination 
of  grand  walks,  &c; 

These  kinds  being  very  expensive,  are  rather  sparingly  introduced; 
sometimes  a  temple  is  presented  at  the  termination  of  a  grand  walk 
or  opening,  or  sometimes  a  temple,  banqueting-house,  or  bower  is 
erected  in  the  centre  of  some  spacious  opening  or  grass-ground  in  the 
internal  divisions;  other  parts  present  alcoves,  bowers,  grottos,  rural 
seats,  &c.,  at  the  termination  of  different  walks ;  and  rural  seats  are 
placed  in  different  parts  by  the  sides  of  long  walks,  under  the  shade 
of  trees,  &c.,  for  places  of  rest. 

Fountains  and  statues  are  generally  introduced  in  the  middle  of 
spacious  openings ;  statues  are  also  often  placed  at  the  terminations 
of  particular  walks,  sometimes  in  woods,  thickets,  and  recesses,  upon 
mounts,  terraces,  and  other  stations,  according  to  what  they  are  in- 
tended to  represent. 

Sometimes,  also,  there  are  exhibited  root-houses,  rock  and  shell-work, 
ruins,  and  other  rustic  devices,  representing  hermitages,  caves,  &c. ; 
such  being  generally  stationed  in  some  retired  or  private  situation ; 
these  kinds  of  buildings  being  commonly  arched  or  vaulted,  are,  for 
the  most  part,  covered  with  a  coat  of  earth  and  turfed  with  grass,  so 
as  to  appear  like  a  sort  of  mount  or  hillock,  and  planted  with  some 
little  clumps  of  shrubs,  &c.,  having  private  walks  leading  to  the  en- 
trance. 

In  some  parts  are  exhibited  artificial  rock-work,  contiguous  to 
some  grotto,  fountain,  rural  piece  of  water,  &c.,  and  planted  with  a 
variety  of  sexatile  plants,  or  such  as  grow  naturally  on  rocks  and 
mountains. 

Ornamental  bridges  over  artificial  rivers,  or  any  rural  piece  of  water 
in  some  magnificent  opening,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  prospect  thereof,  at 
some  distance  from  the  habitation,  have  charming  effects. 

Let  it  be  particularly  remarked,  that  although  water,  when  exhi- 
bited with  due  taste  and  handsome  design,  adds  considerable  to  the 
beauty  of  pleasure-grounds;  yet,  in  districts  subject  to  diseases  oc- 
casioned by  the  effluvia  arising  from  marshes  and  stagnant  water,  it 
ought  to  be  cautiously  introduced ;  a  due  regard  to  health  will  of 
course  prevent  its  introduction,  especially  in  large  sheets,  where  likely 


84  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

to  become  stagnant.  When  such  are  admitted,  they  should  always 
be  situated  in  a  clay  or  gravelly  soil,  and  possess  a  sufficient  head  or 
stream  to  render  the  change  of  their  contents  frequent. 

A  foss,  or  ha-ha,  is  often  formed  at  the  termination  of  a  spacious 
lawn,  grand  walk,  avenue,  or  other  principal  part  of  parts  of  the 
pleasure-ground,  both  to  extend  the  prosp*ect  into  the  adjacent  fields 
and  country,  and  give  these  particular  parts  of  the  ground  an  air  of 
larger  extent  than  they  really  have ;  as  at  a  distance  nothing  of  this 
kind  of  fence  is  seen,  so  that  the  adjacent  fields,  plantations,  &c., 
appear  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  pleasure-ground. 

A  foss,  or  ha-ha,  is  a  sunk  fence,  ditch-like,  five  or  six  feet  deep, 
and  ten,  twenty,  or  more  wide,  and  is  made  in  different  ways  accord- 
ing to  the  nature  of  the  ground.  One  sort  is  formed  with  a  nearly 
upright  side  next  the  pleasure-ground,  five,  six  or  seven  feet  deep, 
faced  with  a  wall  of  brick,  or  stone,  or  strong  post  and  planking,  &c. ; 
the  other  side  is  made  sloping  outward  gradually  from  the  bottom  of 
said  wall,  till  it  terminates  as  near  a  level  as  possible. 

It  being  absolutely  necessary  to  have  the  whole  of  the  pleasure- 
ground  surrounded  with  a  good  fence  of  some  kind,  as  a  defence 
against  cattle,  &c.,  a  foss  being  a  kind  of  concealed  fence,  will  answer 
that  purpose  where  it  can  conveniently  be  made,  without  interrupting 
the  view  of  such  neighboring  parts  as  are  beautified  by  art  or  nature, 
and  at  the  same  time  effect  an  appearance  that  these  are  only  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  pleasure  ground.  Over  the  foss  in  various  parts  may 
be  made  Chinese  and  other  curious  and  fanciful  bridges,  which  will 
have  a  romantic  and  pleasing  effect. 

DESIGN   FOR  A  VILLA   GARDEN. 

To  lay  out  a  rural  residence  satisfactorily,  it  is  necessary  to  study 
the  form  and  location  of  the  ground,  as  well  as  to  consult  with,  and 
ascertain  the  particular  requirements  of  the  family.  It  would  be 
an  easy  matter  to  offer  a  series  of  designs,  many  of  which  might 
be  useful  to  those  in  need.  I  conceive,  however,  that  it  will  serve 
a  more  useful  purpose  to  select  a  sketch  as  it  occurs  in  practice, 
as  many  opportunities  are  presented  of  taking  advantage  of  exist- 
ing features  and  turning  them  to  account  in  the  general  improve- 
ment. Individual  taste  must  be  recognized  in  the  disposition  of  the 
various  adjuncts  to  a  dwelling.  While  some  desire  the  purely  orna- 
mental character  to  predominate,  others  have  more  utilitarian  objects 
in  view.  The  most  numerous  class  are  those  who  wish  to  have  a 
little  of  everything — vegetables,  fruit,  flowers,  and  ornamental  trees 
— as  shown  in  the  following  design.  It  was  required  to  arrange  the 
grounds,  although  limited  in  extent,  so  as  to  appropriate  a  small  spot 
for  flowers,  as  well  as  have  a  few  of  the  most  desirable  ornamental 
trees  disposed  on  the  lawn,  with  convenient  walks  for  their  inspec- 
tion. Flowering  shrubs  had  also  to  be  kept  in  view ;  a  small  space 
was  also  desired  for  cultivating  some  of  the  smaller  kinds  of  fruits, 
and  lastly,  a  portion  had  to  be  reserved  for  vegetable  culture. 

In  arranging  these  various  parts,  the  principle  of  distinctiveness 
has  been  kept  prominently  in  view.  On  the  west  side,  the  short 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  85 

walk  leading  from  the  street  to  the  principal  entrance  of  the  house, 
leads  through  a  small  flower-garden,  consisting  of  a  few  simple  figures 
geometrically  arranged.  The  grape-arbor  forms  a  very  appropriate 
division  between  the  ornamental  and  vegetable  ground,  and  its  prox- 
imity to  the  house  renders  it  useful  and  convenient  as  a  shady  resort 
in  summer.  The  open  spaces  of  grass  form  a  relieving  contrast  to 
the  groups  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  suggest  a  feeling  of  extent  j  a 
principle  that  is  seldom  adopted  in  small  places,  although  it  is  most 
important ;  the  same  space  of  ground  dotted  over  with  plants,  would 
appear  confused,  monotonous,  and  confined.  The  fruit  garden,  which 
is  separated  from  the  ornamental  planting  by  an  arbor- vitae  hedge,  is 
adapted  for  dwarf  pear-trees,  strawberries  and  raspberries.  The  pears 
are  arranged  parallel  to  the  walks,  inclosing  a  space  for  strawberries. 
The  raspberries  are  planted  on  a  narrow  border  close  to  the  fence. 
Currant  and  gooseberry  bushes  are  planted  along  the  walks  in  the 
vegetable  garden,  the  whole  being  excluded  from  the  stable-yard  and 
road  by  an  evergreen  hedge. 

References  to  Plan. — A.  House.  B.  Barn.  C.  Hose  clumps. 
D.  Central  figures  of  flower  garden.  E.  Lawn.  F.  Grape-arbor. 
G.  Vegetable  grounds.  H.  Fruit  department.  K.  Yard.  L.  Pi- 
azza. S.  Rustic  seat.  V.  Vase.  The  ground  measured  120  feet  by 
200  feet. 

The  entire  ground  is  level  and  elevated ;  in  order,  therefore,  to  im- 
prove the  architectural  appearance  of  the  house,  the  first  floor  is  ele- 
vated three  feet  six  inches  above  the  surface,  and  connected  with  it 
by  a  small  turf  terrace. 

A  few  of  the  principal  trees  are  named  below,  with  reference  to 
their  location.  Owing  to  the  method  I  have  adopted  in  indicating 
the  position  of  the  plants  on  the  lawn,  I  could  not  conveniently  refer 
them  to  numbers  on  so  small  a  scale.  They  are  selected  chiefly  in 
regard  to  color  and  diversity  of  foliage.  Those  nearest  the  walks  are 
mostly  deciduous  shrubs,  planted  sufficiently  apart  to  allow  full  de- 
velopment. An  annual  pruning  in  of  the  strongest  branches  will 
improve  their  appearance  when  thus  arranged,  but  not  clipped  into  a 
formal  shape.  The  masses  of  shrubbery  shown  by  distinct  outlines 
are  thickly  planted  in  the  first  instance,  attention  being  given  in  the 
arrangement  with  a  view  to  a  gradual  thinning  out  of  the  least  desi- 
rable, as  may  be  found  necessary  to  allow  space  for  the  more  select 
kinds.  The  line  of  shrubbery  included  between  the  walk  and  bound- 
ary north  and  east  of  the  house,  is  planted  in  like  manner,  with  the 
addition  of  a  few  hemlock  and  Norway  spruce  firs  and  other  smaller 
sized  evergreens,  on  purpose  to  shelter  from  cold  winds. 

The  following  named  trees  are  placed  as  indicated  by  the  figures 
on  the  plan  :  1.  Magnolia  purpurea,  Purple  Magnolia.  2.  Magnolia 
conspicua,  Chandelier  Magnolia.  3,  4.  Cedrus  Deodar,  Deodar  Ce- 
dar. 5,  6.  Abies  canadensis,  Hemlock  Spruce.  7.  Liquidambar 
styraciflua,  Sweet  Gum.  8.  Fagus  sylvatica  purpurea,  Purple  Beech. 
9.  Acer  campestre,  English  Maple.  10.  Chionanthus  Virginica, 
Virginia  Fringe  Tree.  11.  Magnolia  tripetala,  Umbrella  Magnolia. 
12.  Rhus  cotinus,  Mist  Bush.  13.  Cytisus  laburnum,  Golden  Chain. 
14.  Virgilea  lutea,  Yellow  Wood.  15.  Halesia  tretraptera,  Silver 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR 


[JAN. 


Bell.  16.  Larix  Europa,  European  Larch.  17.  Celtis  occidentalis, 
Nettle  Tree.  18.  Acacia  julibrissin,  the  Julibrissin  Tree.  19.  Jug- 
lans  regia,  Madeira  Nut.  20.  Berberis  purpurea,  Purple  Berberry. 

Fig.  11. 


O   0    O    O    o   O  o 

0 

o 

u 

0 

0 

3 

0 

•L 

0 

0 

C 

0 

0 

0 

o 

0 

c 

) 

0 

21.  Pyrus  Japonica,  Japan  Quince.     22.  Buxus  sempervirens  arbo- 
rea,  Tree  Box.     23.  Euonymus  Japonica,  Evergreen  Euonymus. 

At  D  in  the  flower-garden,  a  plant  of  the  weeping  cherry,  and  the 
*  shows  the  position  of  sugar  maples  for  shade. 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  87 


OF   ANCIENT   DESIGNS. 

Designs  in  ancient  gardening  for  a  pleasure-ground,  consulted  uni- 
formity in  every  part,  exact  levels,  straight  lines,  parallels,  squares, 
angles,  circles,  and  other  geometrical  figures,  &c.,  all  corresponding 
in  the  greatest  regularity  to  effect  an  exact  symmetry  and  proportion. 

Straight  walks  were  everywhere  observed,  and  all  arranged  parallel 
and  crossing  one  another  in  regular  intersections ;  generally  a  grand 
one  of  gravel  was  extended  in  a  straight  line  immediately  from  the 
front  of  the  main  house,  having  each  side  verged  either  with  a  regu- 
lar straight  border  of  earth,  furnished  with  a  variety  of  flowers,  &c., 
and  sometimes  having  a  verge  of  grass  three  or  four  feet  wide,  then 
a  border,  embellished  as  above  with  various  plants;  this  main  walk 
being  often  intersected  by  others  at  regular  distances,  so  as  sometimes 
to  divide  the  spaces  immediately  in  the  front  of  the  house  into  four, 
six,  or  more  equal  squares,  some  of  which  were  sometimes  formed 
into  parterres,  sometimes  only  naked  grass-plats,  or  other  uniform 
divisions ;  and  often  the  whole  garden  was  thus  divided  by  straight, 
parallel,  and  intersecting  walks,  into  many  regular  squares  and  angles 
without  any  variation. 

Grand  parterres  were  very  commonly  presented  immediately  on  the 
front  of  the  main  house,  having  a  grand  walk  of  grass  or  gravel 
directly  from  the  house  through  the  middle,  or  dividing  the  parterre 
ground  into  two  divisions. 

A  parterre  is  a  spacious  level  spot  of  ground  divided  into  many 
partitions,  of  different  figures  and  dimensions,  by  means  of  edgings 
or  lines  of  dwarf-box,  &c.,  or  by  verges  of  grass-turf  and  tracks  of 
sand,  fine  gravel,  shell,  and  scroll-work,  &c. 

These  works  were  in  great  estimation  in  ancient  gardening,  and 
were  commonly  situated  directly  in  front  of  the  house,  generally  the 
whole  width  of  the  front,  or  sometimes  more. 

The  general  figure  of  a  parterre  is  an  oblong  or  long  square;  be- 
cause the  rules  of  Perspective,  or  the  natural  declension  of  the  visual 
rays  in  optics,  a  long  square  sinks  almost  to  a  square,  and  an  exact 
square  appears  much  less  so  than  it  really  is,  when  viewed  at  a 
distance ;  therefore,  parterres  were  generally  made  twice  as  long  as 
broad. 

These  were  bounded  by  a  long  bed,  or  border  of  earth,  and  the 
internal  space  within  divided  into  various  little  partitions  or  inclos- 
ures,  artfully  disposed  into  different  figures  corresponding  with  one 
another,  such  as  long  squares,  triangles,  circles,  various  scroll-works, 
flourishes  of  embroidery,  and  many  other  fanciful  devices;  all  of 
which  figures  were  edged  with  dwarf-box,  &c.,  with  intervening  alleys 
of  turf,  fine  sand,  shells,  &c. 

The  partitions  or  beds  were  planted  with  the  choicest  kinds  of 
flowers,  but  no  large  plants  to  hide  the  different  figures,  for  such  were 
intended  as  a  decoration  for  the  whole  place  long  after  the  season  of 
the  flowers  was  past. 

Though  parterres  in  general  are  now  become  rather  unfashionable, 
a  little  of  that  kind  of  work  might  still  be  permitted  for  variety's  sake, 


88  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

though  not  immediately  in  front  of  the  house  as  heretofore.  A  spa- 
cious lawn,  bounded  with  rural  shrubberies,  is  the  most  eligible  situ- 
ation for  such ;  but  a  plain  parterre  of  a  moderate  extent,  either 
formed  with  lines  of  box,  or  with  turf,  might  be  introduced  in  some 
of  the  more  internal  parts,  and  distributed  either  into  plain  or  com- 
plex departments,  or  beds  of  earth  for  flowers,  so  as  to  answer  the 
purpose  of  a  flower-garden  for  the  most  curious  sorts  j  it  will  have  an 
agreeable  effect  in  forming  a  contrast  with  the  more  rural  scenes. 

In  the  more  interior  parts,  large  tracts  of  ground  were  frequently 
divided  by  straight  grass-walks  into  many  square  and  angular  divi- 
sions of  wilderness,  each  division  surrounded  by  regular  hedges  of 
various  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  kept  in  uniform  order  by  annual 
clippings ;  having  the  interior  part  of  each  quarter  planted  with  trees 
and  shrubs,  which  were  in  a  manner  concealed  by  the  hedges  from 
persons  in  the  adjacent  walks,  so  that  hardly  anything  but  close 
hedges,  the  same  thing  over  again,  appeared  to  view  on  each  side  of 
the  walks ;  and  all  the  walks  generally  led  into  uniform  openings  of 
grass,  particularly  to  a  grand  circle  or  octagon,  forming  some  central 
part. 

Frequently  there  were  partitions  of  regular  hedge-work,  particu- 
larly of  evergreens,  surrounding  large  squares  of  grass-ground,  de- 
signed as  pieces  of  garden  ornaments ;  the  hedge-work  being  often 
formed  into  various  uniform  devices,  such  as  pilasters,  arcades  or 
arches,  porticos,  galleries,  amphitheatres,  pavilions,  cabinets,  bowers, 
pediments,  niches,  and  cornices ;  likewise  regular  arbors,  having  the 
sides  formed  into  arcades,  and  sometimes  the  top  vaulted ;  and  with 
various  other  formal  imitations,  all  performed  in  hedge-work,  which 
were  often  so  arranged  and  trained,  as  to  effect  an  air  of  grandeur 
and  art.  High  hedges  were  also  in  great  repute,  as  boundaries  to 
grand  walks  and  avenues,  sometimes  carried  up  from  fifteen  or  twenty 
to  thirty  or  forty  feet  high  ;  sometimes  trained  perfectly  close  from 
the  very  bottom  to  top ;  others  open  below  a  considerable  way,  and 
formed  into  regular  arches,  &c.,  all  of  which  sometimes  appeared 
magnificent  and  ornamental,  but  were  troublesome  and  expensive  to 
keep  in  order,  on  account  of  their  great  height :  however,  all  sorts  of 
hedge-work  were  generally  esteemed  so  ornamental  in  ancient  garden- 
ing, that  almost  every  division  was  surrounded  with  regular  hedges 
of  one  sort  or  other,  presenting  themselves  to  view  in  every  part, 
shutting  out  all  other  objects  from  sight ;  but  in  modern  designs,  such 
hedges  are  rarely  admitted ;  every  compartment  of  the  plantation  be- 
ing left  open  to  view  from  the  walks  and  lawns,  in  order  to  afford  a 
full  prospect  of  the  various  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  which  conse- 
quently are  more  beautiful  than  continued  ranges  of  close  hedges  ; 
but  for  the  sake  of  variety,  a  little  ornamental  hedge-work  might  still 
be  introduced  in  some  particular  parts  of  the  ground. 

Labyrinths  or  mazes  of  hedge-work,  in  the  manner  of  a  wilderness, 
also  prevailed  in  many  large  gardens. 

A  labyrinth  is  a  maze  or  sort  of  intricate  wilderness  plantation, 
abounding  with  hedges  and  walks,  formed  into  many  windings  and 
turnings,  leading  to  one  common  centre,  extremely  difficult  to  find 
out,  designed  in  large  pleasure-grounds  by  way  of  amusement. 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  89 

Detached  trained  figures  of  evergreens,  as  yew,  cypress,  juniper, 
holly,  box,  and  various  other  close-growing  evergreen  plants,  were 
also  very  predominant  in  ancient  designs,  and  generally  disposed  in 
regular  ranges  along  the  borders  and  other  verges  of  grand  walks  ; 
being  trained  by  clipping  into  various  formal  shapes,  as  pyramids, 
obelisks,  columns,  &c.,  in  a  variety  of  forms,  with  other  formal 
figures,  all  placed  in  the  most  exact  arrangement. 

Straight  rows  of  the  most  beautiful  trees,  forming  long  avenues  and 
grand  walks,  were  in  great  estimation,  considered  as  great  ornaments. 

Regular  grass  slopes  also  greatly  prevailed  in  most  old  gardens  as 
ornaments  to  particular  divisions ;  sometimes  such  were  formed  at 
the  beginning  of  some  rising  ground,  and  sometimes  at  the  termina- 
tion or  lower  part ;  frequently  canals  and  other  pieces  of  water  were 
bounded  by  a  range  of  them,  and  likewise  the  sides  of  terraces  and 
other  elevated  places.  Moderate  grass  slopes,  also,  often  formed 
a  boundary  to  some  open  spaces,  such  as  bowling-greens,  flower  garden, 
&c.,  forming  a  sort  of  terrace  all  around,  and  frequently  having  a 
gravel  walk  at  top  ;  these  slopes  were  always  formed  with  the  greatest 
regularity  and  exactness,  which  in  some  situations  were  very  orna- 
mental. 

Regular  terraces,  either  on  natural  eminences  or  forced  ground, 
were  often  introduced  by  way  of  ornament  for  the  sake  of  prospect, 
and  of  enjoying  the  fresh  air  in  summer;  they  were  of  various  di- 
mensions with  respect  to  height,  from  two  to  ten,  or  twenty  feet  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  situation  and  purpose  they  were  designed 
for ;  some  being  ranged  singly,  others  double,  treble,  or  several,  one 
above  another,  on  the  side  of  some  considerable  rising  ground  in 
theatrical  arrangement. 

For  the  sake  of  diversity,  some  of  the  more  elegant  regular  works 
ought  still  to  be  admitted,  which  would  form  a  beautiful  contrast  with 
the  general  rural  improvements,  and  diversify  the  whole  scene,  so  as 
to  have  a  most  enchanting  effect. 

GENERAL  CARE  AND  CULTURE. 

With  respect  to  the  general  culture  of  the  ground,  neatness  must 
ever  be  observed  in  every  part ;  the  walks,  lawns,  shrubbery,  clumps, 
&c.,  and  the  several  compartments  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  kept 
duly  furnished  with  a  proper  stock  of  the  various  plants. 

In  the  provision  of  plants,  both  of  the  tree  and  shrub  kinds,  let  it 
be  remarked,  that  when  such  are  taken  out  of  the  woods  or  swamps, 
and  planted  in  open  exposures,  they  seldom  succeed ;  therefore  the 
better  way  will  be  to  propagate  them  in  your  nursery,  either  by  cut- 
tings (of  such  as  grow  that  way)  or  by  seed  ;  and  when  arrived  there 
at  a  proper  size,  they  may  be  transplanted  into  the  pleasure-ground 
or  elsewhere  with  success. 

The  gravel  walks  must  always  be  kept  free  from  weeds  and  all  sorts 
of  litter,  and  should  be  rolled  at  least  once  every  week  or  ten  days 
in  summer,  particularly  the  principal  walks;  previously  trimming  the 
edges,  especially  if  verged  with  grass-ground,  and  sweeping  off  all 
loose  litter. 


90  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

The  rolling  in  summer  should  be  occasionally  performed  immedi- 
ately after  showers  of  rain,  particularly  the  first  after  any  continuance 
of  very  dry  weather,  to  settle  all  the  loose  parts  compact  and  smooth ; 
in  winter  the  rolling  should  also  be  occasionally  performed,  observing 
that  it  is  improper  to  break  up  the  walks  at  that  season  in  rough 
ridges,  as  often  practised,  to  remain  in  that  unsightly  manner  till 
spring,  whereby  they  are  rendered  useless  at  a  time  when  there  is 
hardly  any  dry  or  safe  walking  upon  grass  or  other  parts ;  besides, 
they  have  a  disagreeable  and  slovenly  appearance. 

I  would  therefore  advise  to  let  the  walks  remain  undisturbed,  at 
least  until  spring,  when,  if  the  surface  be  foul  or  mossy,  they  may  be 
broken  up,  the  top  turned  to  the  bottom,  and  immediately  raked  and 
rolled,  and  rendered  in  a  fit  condition  for  walking  on. 

All  the  principal  grass  walks  and  lawns  within  the  limits  of  the 
pleasure-ground,  especially  such  parts  as  are  intended  for  walking  on, 
should  also  be  kept  perfectly  neat  by  frequent  mowing  in  summer 
to  keep  the  grass  short,  close  and  fine ;  give  also  occasional  rolling, 
both  to  clean  up  the  scattering  worm-casts  and  to  render  the  surface 
smooth  and  firm.  Always  make  choice  of  a  dewy  morning  or  moist 
weather  for  the  work  of  mowing,  as  the  short  grass  will  cut  much 
better  then  than  when  dry :  be  careful  to  have  each  mowing  per- 
formed with  an  even  hand,  not  to  score,  or  leave  the  mark  of  the 
scythe  at  each  stroke,  which  has  a  most  disagreeable  appearance,  and 
directly  after  rake  up  all  the  swarths  of  grass  into  heaps  and  carry 
them  away. 

Rolling  the  grass  should  be  occasionally  performed,  between  the 
times  of  mowing,  in  order  to  continue  the  surface  always  firm,  even, 
and  of  a  close,  smooth  appearance. 

In  extensive  pleasure-grounds,  and  large  extended  lawns,  walks, 
&c.,  the  rolling  is  sometimes  done  by  horses,  having  a  very  large  roller 
furnished  with  horse-shafts,  and  the  horses'  feet  occasionally  muffled, 
especially  when  the  ground  is  rather  soft,  to  prevent  their  cutting  the 
surface  of  the  grass  in  holes. 

Keep  all  grass-ground  clear  from  litter,  such  as  fallen  leaves  of 
trees,  &c.,  which  may  be  expeditiously  effected  by  a  light  broom  or 
besom  on  a  long  handle. 

The  edges  of  all  principal  grass  walks  and  those  of  grass-ground 
next  to  gravel  walks  in  particular,  should  always  be  kept  close  and 
even,  and  dressed  once  or  twice  a  year  at  least,  with  an  Edging-Iron, 
which  ought  to  be  made  of  the  best  steel,  and  kept  very  sharp ;  this 
instrument  is  made  somewhat  in  the  crescent  form,  and  about  nine 
inches  in  diameter,  pretty  much  like  a  saddler's  cutting-knife,  rounded 
below  at  the  edge  part,  and  with  a  socket  above,  upright  in  the  middle, 
in  which  to  fix  a  straight  handle  of  wood,  about  four  feet  long ;  with 
this  instrument  a  man  can  dress  as  much  grass-edging  in  a  day  as 
three  men  with  spades,  do  it  much  neater,  and  without  wasting  the 
edges  of  the  borders. 

The  above  dressings  ought  particularly  to  be  given  previous  to 
turning  the  gravel-walks ;  at  other  times  during  the  summer  the  edges 
may  be  trimmed  occasionally  as  the  grass  grows  rank,  either  with  a 
pair  of  garden  shears,  or  with  shears  made  for  that  purpose,  exactly 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  91 

in  the  form  of  sheep-shears,  but  a  little  larger  and  longer  in  the 
blades. 

The  shrubbery  plantations  should  generally  be  all  suifered  to  take 
their  own  natural  growth,  and  branch  out  into  full  heads,  only  just 
giving  a  little  occasional  trimming  to  any  very  irregular  growths,  such 
as  retrenching  or  reducing  any  very  luxuriant  rude  shoots,  or  con- 
siderable ramblers  running  wildly  from  all  the  other  branches.  Cut 
out  all  dead  wood  and  keep  all  the  shrubs  from  entangling  with  one 
another,  so  as  the  head  of  each  shrub  may  appear  distinct,  and  show 
itself  to  proper  advantage. 

The  ground  of  the  principal  shrubbery  plantations,  in  which  the 
shrubs  stand  distant,  not  covering  the  surface,  should  be  digged  every 
year,  late  in  autumn,  or  in  spring,  previously  giving  the  shrubs  any 
necessary  pruning  as  above  observed ;  this  operation  gives  health  and 
vigor  to  the  plants,  kills  weeds,  and  gives  the  place  an  air  of  culture, 
and  a  lively  neat  appearance. 

After  this  general  digging,  the  ground  must  be  kept  clean  from 
weeds  all  summer,  by  occasional  hoeing  in  dry  weather,  which  with 
a  scuffling-hoe  may  be  expeditiously  performed. 

Particular  care  must  be  taken  of  the  flower  borders,  &c.;  they  must 
be  neatly  and  carefully  dug  in  autumn,  and  pointed  and  dressed  afresh 
in  spring,  according  as  the  various  plants  grew  up,  let  such  as  need 
support  have  sticks  placed  to  preserve  them  upright;  and  as  the 
herbaceous  perennials  and  annuals  have  done  flowering  and  their 
stalks  decay,  cut  them  down  close,  clearing  off  all  decayed  leaves  and 
other  rubbish. 

All  kinds  of  hedge-work  and  detached  trained  figures  of  evergreens 
should  be  clipped  twice  a  year — that  is  to  say,  in  June  and  in  Sep- 
tember, for  without  this,  they  will  not  have  that  neat,  handsome  ap- 
pearance that  inspires  admiration  and  does  credit  to  the  person  under 
whose  care  they  are. 

For  further  particulars,  see  the  work  under  this  head  in  the  differ- 
ent months. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

A  commodious  piece  of  good  ground  for  a  flower  garden,  situated 
in  a  convenient  and  well-sheltered  place,  and  well  exposed  to  the  sun 
and  air,  ought  to  be  allotted  for  the  culture  of  the  more  curious  and 
valuable  flowers. 

The  form  of  this  ground  may  be  either  square,  oblong,  or  some- 
what circular,  having  the  boundary  embellished  with  a  collection  of 
the  most  curious  flowering  shrubs ;  the  interior  part  should  be  divided 
into  many  narrow  beds,  either  oblong,  or  in  the  manner  of  a  par- 
terre ;  but  plain  four  feet  wide  beds  arranged  parallel,  having  two 
feet  wide  alleys  between  bed  and  bed,  will  be  found  most  convenient, 
yet  to  some  not  the  most  fanciful. 

In  either  method  a  walk  should  be  carried  round  the  outward 
boundary,  leaving  a  border  to  surround  the  whole  ground,  and  with- 
in this,  to  have  the  various  divisions  or  beds  raising  them  generally 
in  a  gently  rounding  manner,  edging  such  as  you  like  with  dwarf- 


92  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

box,  some  with  trift,  pinks,  sisyrinchium,  &c.,  by  way  of  variety,  lay- 
ing the  walks  and  alleys  with  the  finest  gravel.  Some  beds  may  be 
neatly  edged  with  boards,  especially  such  as  are  intended  for  the  finer 
sort  of  bulbs,  &c. 

In  this  division  you  may  plant  the  finest  hyacinths,  tulips,  poly- 
anthus-narcissus, double  jonquils,  anemones,  ranunculuses,  bulbous- 
irises,  tuberoses,  scarlet  and  yellow  amaryllises,  colchicums,  fritil- 
laries,  crown  imperials,  snow-drops,  crocuses,  lilies  of  various  sorts, 
and  all  the  different  kinds  of  bulbous  and  tuberous- rooted  flowers, 
which  succeed  in  the  open  ground ;  each  sort  principally  in  separate 
beds,  especially  the  more  choice  kinds,  being  necessary  both  for  dis- 
tinction's sake  and  for  the  convenience  of  giving  such  as  need  it  pro- 
tection from  inclement  weather ;  but  for  particulars  of  their  culture, 
see  the  respective  articles  in  the  various  months. 

Likewise  in  this  division  should  be  planted  a  curious  collection  of 
carnations,  pinks,  polyanthuses,  and  many  other  beautiful  sorts, 
arranging  some  of  the  most  valuable  in  beds  separately;  others  may 
be  intermixed  in  different  beds,  forming  an  assemblage  of  various 
sorts. 

In  other  beds  you  may  exhibit  a  variety  of  all  sorts,  both  bulbous, 
tuberous,  and  fibrous-rooted  kinds,  to  keep  up  a  succession  of  bloom 
in  the  same  beds  during  the  whole  season. 

Here  I  cannot  avoid  remarking  that  many  flower  gardens,  &c.,  are 
almost  destitute  of  bloom  during  a  great  part  of  the  season ;  which 
could  be  easily  avoided,  and  a  blaze  of  flowers  kept  up,  both  in  this 
department  and  in  the  borders  of  the  pleasure-ground,  from  March 
to  November,  by  introducing  from  our  woods  and  fields  the  various 
beautiful  ornaments  with  which  nature  has  so  profusely  decorated 
them.  Is  it  because  they  are  indigenous  that  we  should  reject  them? 
Ought  we  not  rather  to  cultivate  and  improve  them  ?  What  can  be 
more  beautiful  than  our  Lobelias,  Orchises,  Asclepiases,  and  Asters; 
Dracocephalums,  Gerardias,  Monardas  and  Ipomreas ;  Liliums,  Poda- 
lyrias,  Rhexias,  Solidagos  and  Hibiscuses;  Phloxes,  Gentianas,  Spi- 
gelias,  Chironias,  and  Sisyrinchiums,  Cassias,  Ophryses,  Coreopsises 
and  Cypripediums;  Fumarias,  Violas,  Rudbeckias  and  Liatrises;  with 
our  charming  Limodorum,  fragrant  Arethusa,  and  a  thousand  other 
lovely  plants  which,  if  introduced,  would  grace  our  plantations  and 
delight  our  senses  ? 

In  Europe,  plants  are  not  rejected  because  they  are  indigenous ; 
on  the  contrary,  they  are  cultivated  with  due  care ;  and  yet  here  we 
cultivate  many  foreign  trifles,  and  neglect  the  profusion  of  beauties 
so  bountifully  bestowed  upon  us  by  the  hand  of  nature. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  THIS  MONTH. 

Prune  such  of  your  ornamental  shrubs,  &c.,  as  need  it,  particularly 
the  hardy  deciduous  kinds ;  all  decayed,  ill-placed  and  straggling 
branches  ought  to  be  cut  off  close  to  where  they  were  produced,  and 
such  others  shortened  as  are  growing  in  a  disorderly  way,  always 
taking  great  care  to  form  the  heads  in  a  full  and  handsome  manner, 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  93 

that  they  may  appear  well  furnished  and  display  the  beauty  of  their 
foliage  and  bloom  in  due  season. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  at  this  time  of  the  choicest  kinds  of 
flowering  plants  and  other  tender  kinds  in  pots — they  should  be 
carefully  protected  from  severe  frosts,  by  giving  each  sort  suitable 
covering. 

AURICULAS. 

The  best  auriculas  in  pots  should  be  well  protected  from  excessive 
rains,  snow  or  sharp  frosts ;  which  will  preserve  them  in  strength  to 
flower  in  great  perfection. 

The  choicest  varieties  of  these  plants  should  always  be  removed  in 
their  pots,  about  the  beginning  of  November,  and  placed  in  frames, 
or  in  a  bed  arched  over  with  hoops,  in  a  warm,  dry  situation  in  the 
full  sun,  where  they  can  be  occasionally  covered  when  the  weather  is 
unfavorable;  but  let  the  covers  be  kept  constantly  off  in  the  daytime 
when  the  weather  is  mild  and  dry. 


CARE  OF  CARNATIONS. 

Take  great  care  to  protect  your  fine  carnations  that  are  in  pots 
from  hard  frosts,  excessive  rains  and  snow ;  for  notwithstanding  the 
plants  being  hardy  enough  to  stand  the  winter  in  the  open  air,  it  is 
advisable  to  defend  the  choicest  sorts  in  bad  weather,  to  preserve 
them  in  good  strength  for  flowering  in  the  greatest  perfection. 

These  pots  should  be  plunged  in  a  raised  bed  of  dry  compost,  in 
the  beginning  of  winter,  and  the  bed  arched  over  low  with  pliant 
rods  or  hoops  at  that  time  ;  this  will  be  of  great  advantage  to  the 
plants,  if  you  are  careful  to  draw  mats  over  the  arches  when  the 
weather  is  severe. 

But  if  the  pots  were  to  be  placed  in  garden  frames  it  would  be 
still  better,  if  you  take  care  to  put  the  glasses  over  them  in  rigorous 
weather  and  at  night;  but  be  careful  to  give  them  as  much  free  air 
as  possible  by  day,  when  the  weather  permits ;  either  by  taking  the 
glasses  totally  off  for  a  few  hours,  or  tilting  them  up  behind. 

CARE  OF  CHOICE  HYACINTHS  AND  TULIPS. 

In  severe  frosty  weather  it  would  be  of  beneficial  advantage  if  the 
beds,  wherein  you  have  deposited  the  choicest  kinds  of  hyacinths 
and  tulips,  or  any  other  curious  bulbous  roots,  be  covered  either  with 
an  awning  of  mats,  or,  in  default  thereof,  with  straw,  fern,  leaves  of 
trees,  or  dry  long  litter ;  but  it  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  severe 
weather  is  over. 

Old  decayed  fine  tan  is  a  good  article  to  cover  hyacinths,  tulips, 
and  other  bulbs  with ;  it  may  be  laid  on  one  inch,  or  one  inch  and  a 
half  deep,  immediately  previous  to  the  commencement  of  the  severe 
winter  frost,  and  need  not  be  removed,  as  it  will  keep  down  the 
weeds  in  spring,  and  protect  the  roots  from  intense  heat  and  drought 
during  their  period  of  ripening. 


94  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 


RANUNCULUSES  AND  ANEMONES. 

The  beds  or  frames  in  which  are  planted  your  choice  kinds  of 
ranunculuses  and  anemones,  sfiould  be  carefully  protected  from  frost 
by  laying  tan,  earth,  or  litter  round  the  outsides  of  the  frames,  and 
carefully  covering  them  at  nights  and  in  severe  weather  with  glasses, 
or  with  boards  laid  lengthwise  or  across  the  frames,  with  mats  or 
other  covering  on  top,  but  carefully  observing  to  give  them  plenty  of 
air  every  day  that  the  weather  is  tolerably  mild,  for  if  too  much  con- 
fined they  will  draw  up  and  be  good  for  nothing. 

Plant  ranunculuses  and  anemones  in  mild,  dry,  open  weather,  if 
you  have  any  now  out  of  the  ground,  and  the  frost  will  admit  of  your 
working  it ;  these  now  planted  will  succeed  those  which  were  put  into 
the  ground  in  October  or  November. 

For  their  reception  choose  a  dry  situation  where  the  ground  is  of 
a  light,  rich  nature.  Let  it  be  well  digged,  breaking  the  earth  fine, 
and  form  it  into  beds  of  three  an4  a  half  or  four  feet  wide ;  rake  the 
surface  smooth,  and  then  plant  the  roots.  These  roots,  after  plant- 
ing, should  be  protected,  as  above,  from  severe  frost  and  too  much 
wet;  either  of  which  would,  at  this  season,  materially  injure  them. 

For  the  particular  method  of  preparing  the  beds  and  planting  roots, 
see  the  work  of  October. 

In  warm,  dry,  and  well  sheltered  situations,  in  the  middle  States 
and  generally  in  the  southern  States,  these  beautiful  flowers  may  be 
planted  in  the  open  borders  in  small  patches  with  other  kinds,  and 
will  there  make  a  very  agreeable  appearance.  You  may  plant  four 
or  five  roots  in  a  small  circle  of  about  six  inches  diameter,  one  in 
the  middle  and  the  rest  round  the  extreme  part  of  the  circle ;  and  let 
these  patches  or  clumps  be  from  two  or  three  to  five,  ten,  or  twelve 
feet  asunder,  and  the  roots  be  covered  from  one  to  two  inches  deep, 
according  to  the  lightness  of  the  ground. 

The  above  practice,  however,  of  planting  those  roots  in  patches 
about  the  borders  is  meant  principally  for  the  common  sorts ;  for  it 
is  necessary  to  plant  the  fine  varieties  together  in  narrow  beds  or 
frames,  as  above,  in  order  both  to  have  the  opportunity  of  protecting 
them  occasionally  in  severe  weather,  and  that  when  in  flower  they 
may  display  a  spacious  show  together  in  their  various  colors,  stripes, 
and  tints,  in  the  different  varieties ;  and  also  in  the  spring,  when  the 
plants  are  in  bloom,  they  can  be  more  readily  sheltered  from  great 
rains  or  too  much  sun,  both  of  which  would  hasten  the  decay  of  the 
flowers ;  and  as  the  pleasure  of  admiring  the  bloom  is  the  only  inten- 
tion of  cultivating  these  flowers,  no  pains  should  be  spared  to  protect 
the  more  beautiful  sorts. 


PLANTING  TULIPS. 

Tulips,  if  you  have  any  out  of  the  ground,  should  now  be  planted 
the  first  settled  open  weather,  to  blow  late,  and  to  succeed  those 
planted  late  in  autumn. 

Let  this  be  done  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit ;  for  if  these 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  95 

roots  are  kept  much  longer  out  of  the  ground,  they  will  blow  very 
poorly.  If  they  are  to  be  planted  in  beds,  let  them  be  made  three 
or  four  feet  wide,  raised  two  or  three  inches,  somewhat  rounding, 
that  they  may  throw  off  the  redundant  wet  of  heavy  rains,  and  re- 
main dry  during  winter. 

If  intended  to  plant  any  of  the  inferior  sorts  in  the  borders,  in 
assemblage  with  other  flowers,  they  may  either  be  planted  in  a  single 
row  towards  the  front,  or  some  dotted  singly,  or  by  three  together, 
to  effect  a  greater  variety ;  but  these  flowers,  when  planted  in  the 
borders,  make  the  best  appearance  in  little  clumps ;  that  is,  in  a  circle 
of  about  six  or  eight  inches,  plant  four  or  five  roots,  and  about  from 
three  or  four  to  five  or  ten  feet  farther,  plant  another  such  clump, 
and  so  proceed,  in  a  varied  order,  towards  the  front  and  middle. 

Observe  that  hyacinths,  tulips,  and  other  hardy  bulbs,  which,  to 
do  them  justice,  ought  to  be  planted  in  October,  or  early  in  Novem- 
ber, should  have  lighter  or  more  shallow  covering,  in  proportion  to 
the  length  of  time  they  are  kept  out  of  ground  after  that  period ;  for 
instance,  tulips,  which  ought  to  get  four  inches  of  light  covering  in 
October,  will  not  be  able  to  bear  more  than  three  in  December,  two 
and  a  half  in  January,  two  in  February,  and  one  and  a  half  if  kept 
up  till  March ;  for  many  of  the  bulbous  kinds  become  so  exhausted 
by  keeping  them  too  long  out  of  the  ground,  that  if  planted  at  the 
usual  depth  they  have  not  strength  to  bear  up  through  it,  and  ulti- 
mately perish.  However,  this  partial  remedy  ought  by  no  means  to 
induce  to  the  keeping  of  bulbous  roots  out  of  ground  after  their 
proper  season ;  but  by  attending  to  it,  roots  may  be  preserved  that 
would  otherwise  perish,  and  which,  by  planting  in  due  time  the  suc- 
ceeding season,  may  produce  tolerably  good  flowers,  and  an  increase 
of  their  kinds. 

Be  particular  never  at  any  season,  nor  under  any  circumstance,  to 
give  less  covering  to  any  kind  of  a  bulbous  or  tuberous  root  when 
planted  in  the  open  ground  than  one  inch  over  the  crown  or  upper 
part. 

PLANTING  CROCUSES  AND  SNOW-DROPS. 

Any  sort  of  crocuses  may  still  'be  planted  if  dry,  mild  weather  ; 
generally  planting  them  along  the  edges  of  the  flower  borders,  next 
the  walks,  and  in  flower  beds,  &c.,  commonly  within  five  or  six  inches 
of  the  edge,  either  in  a  continued  row,  or  dotted  in  little  patches 
planted  about  one  inch  and  a  half  deep  :  though  those  designed  for 
the  borders  appear  to  greater  advantage  when  disposed  in  small 
patches  than  in  any  other  way.  Draw  a  small  circle  with  your  finger, 
about  four  or  five  inches  diameter ;  in  the  middle  plant  one  root,  and 
plant  three  or  four  round  the  edge  of  the  circle;  about  eighteen 
inches  or  two  or  three  feet  farther  make  another  circle,  and  plant  the 
roots  as  above;  and  so  proceed  to  the  end  of  the  border,  &c.,  or  you 
may  vary  the  patches  in  having  some  near  the  edge,  and  others  more 
towards  the  middle ;  observing,  if  you  have  different  kinds,  to  plant 
each  sort  separate;  and  if  you  plant  the  first  patch  with  yellow 
crocuses,  plant  the  next  with  blue,  and  so  proceed  with  others  of 
different  sorts. 


96  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

Snow-drops  may  also  now  be  planted  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
crocuses ;  but  neither  of  them,  when  planted  so  late,  flower  well  the 
spring  following — the  former,  in  particular,  will  totally  perish  if 
kept  much  longer  out  of  the  ground.  These  kinds  ought  to  have 
been  planted  in  September,  or  early  in  October,  for  being  flowers  of 
early  bloom,  they  do  not  agree  with  being  kept  up  after  their  proper 
time  of  planting. 

When  you  desire  a  considerable  increase  of  crocuses  or  snow-drops, 
take  up  the  roots  but  once  in  two  years ;  if  you  let  them  remain 
longer,  though  the  increase  will  be  numerous,  the  roots  become  very 
small  and  produce  but  poor  flowers. 

PLANTING  VARIOUS  SORTS  OF  BULBS. 

Jonquils,  ornithogalums,  narcissuses,  hyacinths,  bulbous  irises, 
Persian  irises,  gladioluses,  fritillaries,  crown  imperials,  or  any  other 
kinds  of  hardy  bulbous  flower  roots  that  yet  remain  above  ground 
should  now  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit.  Mild  dry 
weather  ought  to  be  chosen  for  planting  these  and  all  other  kinds  of 
bulbous  roots,  and  see  that  the  ground  is  not  too  wet. 

When  it  is  intended  to  plant  any  of  the  common  sorts  of  the 
above,  or  other  kinds  of  bulbous  roots  in  the  borders,  they  may  be 
planted  in  the  manner  mentioned  above  for  the  common  tulips,  &c., 
observing  particularly  that  the  longer  you  keep  them  out  of  the 
ground  after  October  or  November  the  shallower  they  must  be 
planted. 

FLOWERS  TO  BLOW  IN  THE  HOUSE. 

Several  sorts  of  bulbous  roots  may  be  placed  upon  bulb-glasses  of 
water  for  blowing  in  the  apartments  of  the  house,  such  as  hyacinths, 
narcissuses,  jonquils,  early  dwarf  tulips,  bulbous  irises,  &c.  The 
glasses  for  this  purpose  are  to  be  had  at  the  seed  and  glass  shops. 
Being  made  concave  at  the  mouth,  they  contain  each  one  root,  and 
are  to  be  filled  with  soft  water,  and  one  root  placed  in  each  glass 
with  its  bottom  touching  the  water,  placing  the  bottles  upon  a  shelf 
or  chimney-piece  of  some  warm  room,  or  in  the  inside  of  a  warm 
window,  and  if  where  the  sun  comes  it  will  be  an  additional  advan- 
tage; but  in  severe  frost  remove  them  to  the  interior  part  of  the 
room  where  a  fire  is  kept.  They  will  soon  shoot  their  roots  down 
into  the  water,  which,  when  become  very  foul  or  fetid,  should  be 
renewed  with  fresh  occasionally;  they  will  thus  blow  very  agreeably 
early  in  the  spring,  and  may  be  greatly  forwarded  if  placed  in  a  hot- 
bed or  hot-house. 

You  may  plant  various  sorts  of  bulbous  and  tuberous  flower  roots 
in  pots  for  blowing  in  a  house,  such  as  hyacinths,  narcissuses  of  all 
kinds,  early  tulips,  crocuses,  anemones,  ranunculuses,  or  any  other 
spring  flowering  kind.  Having  small  pots  or  boxes  filled  with  light 
sandy  earth,  plant  the  roots  therein  just  over  their  crowns,  and  place 
the  pots  near  a  window ;  when  the  roots  begin  to  shoot,  give  occa- 
sional light  waterings,  and  they  will  flower  in  good  perfection  at  an 
early  season. 


JAN.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  97 


BLOWING  FLOWERS  EARLY  IN  HOT-BEDS,  ETC. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbous,  tuberous,  and  fibrous-rooted  perennial 
flowers,  if  planted  in  pots,  and  now  placed  in  a  hot-bed,  hot-house, 
or  any  forcing  department  at  work,  will  shoot  and  flower  early  with- 
out much  trouble,  only  to  give  occasional  watering.  Pots  of  roses, 
dwarf  almonds,  double-blossom  cherry,  peach,  &c.,  may  also  be 
placed  in  the  forcing  houses  for  early  bloom. 

CARE  OF  PERENNIAL  FIBROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS  IN  POTS. 

Double  wall-flowers,  double  stocks,  double  sweet-williams,  and  any 
other  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  perennial  plants  in  pots,  should  be 
well  secured  from  severe  frosts.  If  these  plants  in  pots  are  placed 
in  frames,  let  the  glasses  or  other  covering  be  kept  over  them  at  all 
times  when  the  frost  is  keen,  or  occasionally  in  very  wet  weather ; 
but  in  mild  dry  weather  the  plants  must  not  be  covered  in  the  day- 
time. 

Take  care  now  of  all  other  choicer  kinds  of  fibrous-rooted  peren- 
nial plants  in  general,  which  are  in  pots,  to  secure  them  from  frost. 

Those  plants  which  are  in  pots  should,  where  there  is  not  the  con- 
venience of  frames,  be  plunged  to  their  rims  in  a  dry  and  warm 
border,  and  at  night  and  in  severe  weather  be  covered  with  garden- 
mats,  supported  on  arched  hoops  placed  low  over  such  bed  or  border. 

SEEDLING  FLOWERS. 

Boxes  or  pots  of  any  tender  or  choice  kinds  of  seedling  flowers 
should  be  covered  in  frosty  weather  either  with  mats,  long  litter, 
fern,  or  the  like,  which  should  be  laid  a  good  thickness  over  them, 
and  close  round  the  sides,  or  remove  them  under  a  garden-frame  and 
glasses,  &c.,  which  will  be  the  better  way. 

Likewise  beds  of  the  more  tender  and  curious  sorts  of  seedling 
flowers,  in  the  common  ground,  should  also  be  covered  in  hard  frosts 
with  mats  or  long  dry  litter,  but  remove  the  covering  when  the 
weather  is  mild. 

PROTECTING   FLOWERING-SHRUBS. 

If  you  have  hardy  flowering-shrubs  or  evergreens  in  pots,  you 
should,  to  protect  their  roots  from  the  frost,  plunge  the  pots  to  their 
rims  in  the  ground  (if  omitted  doing  in  November  or  December), 
and  cover  the  pots  with  some  tan,  leaves  of  trees  or  dry  litter,  allot- 
ting them  for  this  purpose  a  dry,  warm  situation,  where  water  is  not 
apt  to  stand. 

But  any  tenderer  or  more  curious  young  evergreens,  &c.,  in  pots, 
should  have  the  protection  of  frames  or  occasional  covering  of  mats, 
&c.,  in  severe  weather.  '•  /  * 

Protect  also  the  roots  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  new  planted  flower- 
ing shrubs  and  evergreens  from  frost.  This  is  done  by  laying  dry 


98  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

mulchy  litter  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  close  round  the  lower 
part  of  the  stem  of  each,  as  far  as  their  roots  extend  or  rather 
farther. 

Likewise  support  such  new-planted  shrubs  as  require  it  with  stakes, 
that  they  may  not  be  displaced  by  the  wind. 

GRASS  AND  GRAVEL  WALKS. 

The  grass  and  gravel  walks  should  all  be  kept  in  decent  order, 
especially  in  the  principal  parts  of  the  garden  and  pleasure-ground  : 
suffer  no  leaves  of  trees  or  other  litter  to  remain  thereon,  for  such 
would  give  them  an  unbecoming  appearance. 

SOUTHERN  STATES. 

Where  mild  weather  is  now  prevalent  and  the  ground  not  bound 
up  bv  frost,  you  may  plant  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and 
shrubs;  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  especially  where 
smart  frosts  are  not  expected  to  follow,  you  may  plant  the  different 
kinds  of  hardy  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs. 

Plant  cuttings  and  make  layers  of  such  kinds  as  you  wish  to  propa- 
gate by  these  methods  :  plant  dwarf  box  for  edgings,  which  is  superior 
to  every  kind  of  plant  for  that  purpose.  Transplant  suckers  from 
the  roots  of  roses  and  such  other  shrubs  as  produce  them,  and  are 
worthy  of  cultivation. 

Hedges  of  the  various  kinds  of  hawthorn,  hornbeam,  beach,  elm, 
privet,  white  mulberry,  &c.,  may  now  be  planted.  Make  and  repair 
grass  and  gravel  walks ;  keep  such  as  are  made  in  clean  and  neat 
order,  and  give  them  occasional  rollings. 

Sow  hardy  annual  and  perennial  flower  seeds,  and  do  the  various 
other  works  directed  to  be  done  in  the  flower  garden  and  pleasure- 
ground  in  March. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

A  green-house  is  a  garden  building  fronted  with  glass,  serving  as 
a  winter  residence  for  tender  plants  from  the  warmer  parts  of  the 
world,  which  require  no  more  artificial  heat  than  what  is  barely  suffi- 
cient to  keep  off  frost,  and  dispel  such  damps  as  may  arise  in  the 
house,  occasioned  by  the  perspiration  of  the  plants  or  a  long  con- 
tinuance of  moist  weather. 

A  very  considerable  share  of  the  vegetable  creation,  which  in  their 
respective  native  countries  grow  naturally  in  open  fields,  &c.,  in  all 
seasons,  require,  when  cultivated  in  less  favorable  climates,  protec- 
tion in  winter  j  but  observe,  however,  that  those  of  the  green-house  de- 
partment, being  from  the  warmer  parts  of  the  world,  require  protec- 
tion from  frost  only,  not  needing  aid  of  artificial  heat  like  stove  plants, 
which  are  generally  natives  of  the  hottest  regions,  except  in  very 


JAN.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  99 

severe  weather;  but  the  aid  of  a  moderate  fire,  burned  in  a  furnace 
contrived  outside,  either  in  the  end  or  back  wall,  communicating  the 
heat  to  the  flues  or  funnels  ranging  along  the  inside,  will  be  neces- 
sary not  only  in  severe  frosts,  but  also  in  moist  foggy  weather;  a 
moderate  fire  now  and  then  will  dry  up  the  damps,  which  would  other- 
wise prove  pernicious  to  several  of  the  more  tender  kinds,  especially 
to  those  of  succulent  habits. 

A  green-house  should  generally  stand  in  the  pleasure  ground,  and 
if  possible,  upon  a  somewhat  elevated  and  dry  spot  fronting  the  south, 
and  where  the  sun  has  full  access  from  its  rising  to  setting;  the 
building  ought  to  be  of  brick  or  stone,  having  the  front  almost 
wholly  of  glass-work,  ranging  lengthwise  east  and  west,  and  con- 
structed upon  an  ornamental  plan. 

As  to  its  general  dimensions,  with  respect  to  length,  width  and 
height,  it  may  be  from  ten  to  fifty  feet  or  more  long,  according  to 
the  number  of  plants  which  you  intend  it  should  contain,  and  its 
width  in  the  clear,  from  ten  or  fifteen  to  twenty  feet;  though  for  a 
middle  sized  house  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet  is  sufficient;  its  height  to 
the  top  of  the  upright  front  glasses  equal  to  its  width ;  as  to  erect- 
ing rooms  over  it,  as  is  commonly  directed,  I  disapprove  of,  such  being 
not  only  an  additional  and  unnecessary  expense,  but  they  give  the 
building  a  heavy  appearance ;  on  the  contrary  all  pieces  of  garden 
architecture  ought  to  display  a  light,  gay,  and  sprightly  taste. 

The  walls  of  the  back  and  ends  should  be  carried  up  three  bricks, 
or  about  two  feet  three  inches  thick,  the  more  effectually  to  keep  out 
frobt;  a  furnace  ought  to  be  erected  outside,  either  in  the  back  wall 
or  one  of  the  ends,  as  before  observed,  communicating  with  flues 
within,  ranging  in  two  or  three  returns  along  the  back  wall,  with, 
only  a  brick  on  edge,  with  the  plastering  between  them  and  the  inside ; 
also  one  flue  running  along  the  front  and  end  walls,  raised  wholly 
above  the  floor;  and  as  to  the  front  of  the  building  it  should  have 
as  much  glass  as  possible,  and  a  wide  glass  door  should  be  in  the 
middle,  both  for  ornament  and  entrance,  and  for  moving  in  and  out 
the  plants  ;  a  small  door  at  the  end  for  entrance  in  severe  weather  will 
be  found  of  considerable  utility. 

The  width  of  the  windows  for  the  glass  sashes  may  be  five  or  six 
feet,  and  the  piers  between  them  may  be  either  of  timber,  six,  eight 
or  ten  inches  wide,  according  to  their  height,  or  if  of  brick  or  stone, 
they  must  be  about  two  feet  wide,  sloping  both  sides  of  each  pier 
inward,  that  by  taking  off  the  angles  a  more  free  admission  may  be 
given  to  the  rays  of  the  sun ;  the  bottom  sashes  must  reach  within 
a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  the  floor  of  the  house,  and  their  top 
reach  within  eight  or  ten  inches  of  the  ceiling  ;  and  if  brick  or  stone 
piers  two  feet  wide,  folding  shutters  may  be  hung  inside  to  fall  back 
against  each  pier. 

In  the  modern  construction  of  green-houses,  in  order  to  have  as 
much  glass  as  possible  in  front,  the  piers  between  the  sashes  are 
commonly  made  of  good  timber  from  six  to  eight  or  ten  inches  thick, 
according  to  their  height,  so  as  to  admit  as  great  a  portion  of  light 
and  heat  of  the  sun  as  may  be;  and,  on  the  same  account,  one-half 
or  one-third  of  the  roof  is  formed  of  glass-work,  made  in  the  manner 


100  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

of  hot-bed  lights,  the  remainder  being  either  covered  with  slate  or 
shingles  and  tarpaulins,  or  very  strong  canvas  fixed  on  rollers,  to  be 
let  down  over  the  roof-glasses  in  very  severe  weather ;  you  may  also 
have  large  canvas  cloths  upon  rollers  to  let  down  occasionally  be- 
fore the  windows,  or  in  default  of  such,  you  may  nail  up  garden 
mats. 

Let  one-third  of  the  front  side  of  the  roof,  for  the  whole  length  of 
the  house,  be  formed  of  glass-work,  and  the  back  wall  raised,  so  as 
that  a  horizontal  ceiling  may  be  carried  from  the  upper  part  of  these 
lights  to  it,  which  will  cause  the  back  half  of  the  roof  to  be  some- 
what more  flat  than  the  front.  Ornamental  wood- work  may  be  erected 
outside  along  the  top  of  those  lights  to  give  a  light  appearance  to  the 
roof.  Or,  if  the  house  be  small,  you  may  carry  the  entire  roof  with 
a  gentle  slope  from  the  front  to  the  back  wall,  which  must  be  made 
of  a  proper  height  for  that  purpose  ;  one-third  or  one-half  of  such 
roof  may  be  made  of  glass-work,  from  the  termination  of  which  carry 
the  ceiling  on  a  level  to  the  back  part  of  the  house. 

The  better  to  confine  the  air  warmed  by  the  sun  in  the  day-time, 
and  to  prevent  the  cold  air  from  rushing  in  on  the  approach  of  night, 
when  that  within  begins  to  cool,  and  consequently  to  contract  in  bulk, 
I  would  advise  to  have  ail  the  panes  in  the  roof-lights  neatly  and 
closely  puttied  where  they  overlap  one-another;  and  to  have  either 
one,  two  or  three  of  those  lights,  in  proportion  to  the  length  of  the 
house,  so  constructed,  as  to  slide  down  and  up  a  few  feet  by  means 
of  pulleys,  in  order  to  give  vent  to  the  foul  air  generated  in  the  house, 
which  naturally  ascends  to  the  upper  part.  The  sized  glass,  recom- 
mended in  page  11,  for  hot-bed  lights,  is  what  I  would  particularly 
recommend  for  these  roof-lights,  being  not  only  the  strongest  but  by 
much  the  cheapest. 

The  windows,  or  upright  front-lights,  must  be  made  with  large 
panes  of  glass,  &c.,  to  admit  the  more  light,  as  well  as  to  give  a  hand- 
some appearance  to  the  house ,  the  upper  half  of  each  window  must 
be  so  contrived  as  to  slide  down,  and  the  lower  half  up  occasionally, 
to  admit  air  to  the  plants  when  necessary. 

If  a  spacious  and  ornamental  window  be  placed  in  each  end  (if 
the  house  be  detached),  to  receive  the  benefit  of  the  rising  and  set- 
ting sun,  it  will  be  of  considerable  advantage ;  these  particularly 
should  have  good  close  shutters  either  inside  or  outside,  and  be  kept 
shut  every  night  during  the  winter,  and  also  in  the  day-time  in  very 
severe  weather,  except  while  the  sun  immediately  shines  on  them. 
If  the  front  is  so  contrived  that  inside  shutters  to  the  windows  can- 
not be  conveniently  hung,  outside  sliding  shutters  should  be  made  to 
be  used  only  when  necessity  requires. 

But  let  it  be  particularly  observed,  that  all  the  lights,  cases,  doors, 
and  wood-work  of  the  house  be  made  of  good  seasoned  wood,  and 
well  painted,  to  prevent  either  their  swelling  by  wet  or  shrinking  by 
drought;  that  all  parts  be  well  jointed  and  fitted  together,  so  as  to  be 
as  nearly  air-tight  as  possible. 

A  house  constructed  on  this  plan  will  very  seldom  require  the  as- 
sistance of  fire-heat,  which  ought  always  to  be  used  with  great  caution 


JAN.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  101 

in  a  green-house ;  it  will  admit  light,  collect  heat,  and  give  health, 
beauty,  and  vigor  to  all  the  plants. 

Some  green-houses,  for  large  collections  of  plants,  have  two  wings 
of  smaller  dimensions  added  to  the  main  building,  one  at  each  end, 
in  a  right  line,  separated  sometimes  from  it  by  glass  partitions  and 
sliding  sashes  for  communication,  the  front  almost  wholly  of  glass, 
and  part  glass  roofs,  as  above  observed ;  thus,  by  these  additional 
wings,  the  green-house  will  consist  of  three  divisions,  whereby  the 
different  qualities  and  temperatures  of  the  various  plants  can  be  more 
eligibly  suited.  The  middle  or  main  division  may  be  for  all  the  prin- 
cipal and  more  hardy,  woody  or  shrubby  kinds,  which  require  pro- 
tection from  frost  only }  one  of  the  wings  may  be  appropriated  for 
the  succulent  tribe,  and  the  other  for  the  more  tender  kinds  that  re- 
quire occasional  heat  in  winter,  yet  can  live  without  the  constant  heat 
of  a  stove  or  hot-house. 

Many  green-houses,  as  they  are  commonly  built,  serve  more  for 
ornament  than  use  ;  their  situation  to  receive  the  south  sun  being  the 
only  essential  that  seems  to  be  regarded  towards  preserving  the 
health  of  the  plants  which  they  are  intended  to  protect.  It  is  rare 
to  find  one  that  will  keep  plants  in  good  health  during  the  winter, 
either  by  reason  of  their  situation  in  moist  places,  their  want  of  a 
sufficiency  of  glasses  to  attract  heat  and  admit  a  due  quantity  of  light, 
or  of  the  glasses  not  being  constructed  so  as  to  slide  up  and  down 
occasionally,  as  they  ought — as  well  to  suffer  the  foul  air  to  be  dis- 
charged as  to  admit  fresh.  Sometimes  where  a  green-house  has  been 
well  considered  in  these  points,  all  is  confounded  by  the  introduction 
of  a  mettle  stove  and  pipes,  which  never  can  be  managed  so  as  to 
give,  when  necessary,  that  gradual  and  well  regulated  heat,  which 
will  protect  the  plants  without  injuring  them ;  and,  besides,  both  the 
stove  and  pipes  unavoidably  emit  in  the  house  a  quantity  of  smoke, 
which  seldom  fails  to  annoy  the  plants.  It  does  not  unfrequently 
happen  when  such  a  house  is  intrusted  to  the  care  of  an  ignorant  or 
negligent  person,  that  the  whole  collection  is  destroyed  in  one  night 
by  excessive  heat,  or  at  least  rendered  of  very  little  value ;  this  is  an 
evil  which  ought  to  be  carefully  guarded  against. 

For  the  particular  method  of  erecting  the  furnace  and  flues,  see 
the  article  HoT-HousE,  for  this  month,  with  which  it  agrees  in  every 
respect,  only  that  one  range  round  the  house  and  two  along  the  back 
wall  will  be  sufficient;  and  that  the  flues  may  or  may  not  be  erected 
close  to  the  walls,  at  pleasure. 

On  whatever  plan  the  green-house  is  constructed,  let  the  whole 
inside,  both  ceiling,  walls  and  flues,  be  neatly  finished  off  with  good 
plaster  and  white-wash,  and  all  the  wood-work  made  with  the  most 
critical  exactness,  of  good  seasoned  timber,  particularly  the  doors, 
sashes  and  sash-frames — the  whole  to  be  painted  white — and  let  the 
bottom  or  floor  be  paved  with  large  square  paving  tiles,  or  some  simi- 
lar materials. 

The  floor  of  the  green-house  should  be  raised  at  least  twelve  inches 
above  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  higher  in  proportion  as  the  situa- 
tion is  moist  or  springy — for  damps  sometimes  arise  during  the 
winter  months  which  prove  very  pernicious  to  plants. 


102  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

In  the  green-house  should  be  tressels,  which  may  be  moved  in  and 
out,  upon  which  rows  of  plants  should  be  fixed  so  as  to  place  the  pots 
or  tubs  of  plants  in  regular  rows  one  above  another,  whereby  the 
heads  of  the  plants  may  be  so  situated  as  not  to  interfere  with  each 
other.  The  lowest  row  of  plants  or  those  nearest  to  the  window 
should  be  placed  about  four  feet  from  them  that  there  may  be  a  con- 
venient breadth  left  next  the  glasses  to  walk  in  front ;  and  the  rows 
of  plants  shou  d  rise  gradually  from  the  first,  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  heads  of  the  second  row  should  be  considerably  advanced  above 
the  first,  the  stems  only  being  hid,  and  so  on  for  the  whole.  At  the 
back  of  the  house  there  should  be  allowed  a  space  of  at  least  four 
feet  for  the  conveniency  of  watering  the  plants,  and  particularly  to 
admit  a  current  of  air  around  them.  There  may  also  be  narrow  tem- 
porary open  stairs  of  boards  erected  at  one  end,  leading  to  a  platform, 
erected  at  the  back  on  a  level  with  the  highest  part  of  the  stage, 
which  will  be  found  very  convenient  for  watering  as  well  as  for  com- 
mon access  to  the  highest  and  most  remote  plants  ;  and  also  to  place 
thereon  near  the  back  wall  pots  and  tubs  of  deciduous  plants,  which 
would  appear  very  unsightly  in  the  front  of  the  stage,  observing  that 
the  boards  of  such  platform  be  laid  one  inch  at  least  asunder  for  the 
free  admission  of  the  circulating  air. 

If  two  or  three  air-holes  be  made  in  the  back  wall  a  little  above 
this  platform,  or  even  below  it,  about  six  inches  square  in  the  outside 
and  twelve  inside,  with  close  shutting  doors  towards  the  outside  and 
within,  both  opening  inward,  they  will  be  found  very  useful  in  mild 
weather  for  ventilating  the  house  and  driving  off  any  foul  air  from 
the  back  part.  In  these  holes,  between  both  doors,  you  may  stuff 
in  any  kind  of  wadding  to  prevent  air  coming  in  that  way  but  when 
wanted. 

Never  crowd  the  plants,  for  when  pent  in  too  closely  a  stagnant 
rancid  .vapor  is  generated,  which  often  occasions  a  mouldiness  upon 
the  tender  shoots  and  leaves,  very  destructive  to  the  plants ;  neither 
should  too  great  a  proportion  of  succulent  plants  ever  be  placed  in 
this  department. 

THE  CONSERVATORY. 

The  green-house  and  conservatory  have  been  generally  considered 
as  synonymous;  their  essential  difference  is  this — in  the  green-house 
the  trees  and  plants  are  either  in  tubs  or  pots,  and  are  placed  on 
stands  or  stages  during  the  winter  till  they  are  removed  into  some 
suitable  situation  abroad  in  summer.  In  the  conservatory  the  ground 
plan  is  laid  out  in  beds  and  borders,  made  up  of  the  best  composi- 
tions of  soil  that  can  be  procured,  three  or  four  feet  deep.  In  these 
the  trees  or  plants  taken  out  of  their  tubs  or  pots  are  regularly 
planted  in  the  same  manner  as  hardy  plants  are  in  the  open  air.  This 
house  is  roofed  as  well  as  fronted  with  glass-work,  and  instead  of 
taking  out  the  plants  in  summer  as  in  the  green-house,  the  whole  of 
the  glass  roof  is  taken  off,  and  the  plants  are  thus  exposed  to  the 
open  air,  and  at  the  approach  of  autumn  frosts  the  lights  are  again 
put  on,  and  remain  so  #11  the  May  following. 


JAN.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  103 

This  building  being  furnished  with  flues,  &c.,  may  be  used  as  a 
green-house  at  discretion  by  introducing  stages  instead  of  beds,  and 
in  that  case  the  glass  roof  may  be  permanently  fixed. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

In  mild  days,  when  the  weather  externally  is  moderate  and  calm, 
let  the  windows  be  opened  a  little  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air 
about  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  and  about  two  or  three  in  the  afternoon 
let  them  be  shut  close  again;  but  the  time  of  opening  and  the  time 
they  should  be  kept  so  must  always  be  determined  by  the  weather, 
for  there  are  many  changes  sometimes  in  a  few  hours  at  this  season. 
The  upper  lights  may  be  let  down  a  few  inches  for  the  admission  of 
fresh  air  as  well  as  to  let  out  the  foul  air  of  the  house,  even  when 
the  under  lights  cannot  be  raised  with  safety.* 

In  frosty  weather  the  windows  must  be  kept  constantly  closed, 
and  if  very  severe  let  the  window  shutters  be  shut  every  night,  and 
even  occasionally  in  the  daytime  when  the  frost  is  extremely  rigor- 
ous, and  no  sun ;  or,  in  default  of  shutters,  on  this  occasion  let  gar- 
den-mats be  nailed  up  against  all  the  windows,  or  strong  canvas 
hung  on  rollers  be  let  down  before  them,  and  remove  the  small  or 
more  tender  plants  in  front  as  far  from  danger  as  possible. 

Keep  the  plants  perfectly  clear  from  decayed  leaves,  and  as  clean 
as  possible  from  any  considerable  foulness,  and  every  part  of  the 
house  clean  and  free  from  litter  of  fallen  leaves,  &c.,  all  of  which  is 
essential  at  this  time  for  the  prosperity  of  the  plants  in  general. 

When  the  weather  is  foggy  or  very  wet,  it  will  be  proper  to  keep 
the  windows  and  doors  close. 

Water  must  be  given  to  such  plants  as  you  see  require  it,  but  let 
that  be  given  in  very  moderate  quantities,  and  always,  if  possible, 
take  the  opportunity  of  a  mild  day,  and  if  sunny  the  better.  In  the 
forenoon  from  eleven  to  twelve  or  one  o'clock  is  the  proper  time  of 
the  day  for  watering  at  this  season,  and  generally  prefer  soft  water 
for  this  occasion. 

But  very  little  water  must  be  given  at  this  season  of  the  year  to 
any  of  the  alofis,  sedums,  or  any  other  of  the  succulent  plants. 

Let  it  likewise  be  observed  that  such  of  the  woody  exotics — 
as  oranges,  myrtles,  geraniums,  &c. — as  you  shall  see  necessary  to 
water,  should  have  but  a  very  moderate  quantity  given  them  at  any 
one  time. 

In  such  green-houses  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  flues  for 
occasional  fire-heat  in  very  rigorous  weather,  you  should  in  time  of 
continued  severe  frost  make  moderate  fires  in  an  evening  and  morn- 
ing, just  sufficient  to  warm  the  inclosed  air  enough  to  resist  the  frost; 
also  in  very  foggy  or  moist  weather  may  make  a  very  moderate  fire 
to  expel  the  damp,  which  often  proves  pernicious  to  some  of  the  more 
delicate  exotics  of  this  department. 

*  The  opening  of  these  under  or  front  windows  during  cold  weather  is 
the  cause  of  most  of  the  mildew  so  often  complained  of.  In  the  middle 
of  winter  always  lower  the  temperature  by  opening  the  top  ventilators. 


104  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN, 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Hot-houses  or  Stoves,  are  buildings  erected  for  preserving  such 
tender  exotic  plants,  natives  of  the  warmer  and  hottest  regions,  as 
will  not  live  in  the  respective  countries  where  they  are  introduced, 
without  artificial  warmth  in  winter. 

Though  there  are  great  varieties  of  these  stoves,  yet  they  are  re- 
ducible to  two,  the  dry  stove  and  the  bark  stove.  They  are  both 
comparatively  of  modern  invention ;  the  first,  as  far  as  I  can  learn, 
not  having  been  in  use  more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  years, 
being  introduced  by  Mr.  Watts,  gardener  at  the  apothecaries'  garden 
at  Chelsea,  near  London,  who  in  the  year  1684,  contrived  flues  under 
his  green-house ;  the  latter  being  much  posterior,  not  having  been 
brought  into  repute  till  about  the  year  1720,  when  Mr.  Le  Cour,  of 
Leyden,  in  Holland,  discovered  its  utility  for  the  propagation  of  the 
pine-apple,  which  had  never  before  been  brought  to  good  perfection 
in  Europe.  Before  the  use  of  bark-beds  was  introduced,  all  stoves 
or  hot-houses  were  worked  by  fire-heat  only,  hence  they  obtained  the 
name  of  stoves. 

These  stove  departments  are  generally  constructed  in  an  oblong 
manner,  ranging  in  a  straight  line  east  and  west  with  the  glass  front 
and  roof  fully  exposed  to  the  south  sun,  and  in  dimensions  may  be 
from  fifteen  or  twenty  to  fifty  or  a  hundred  feet  long,  by  twelve  or 
fourteen  to  sixteen  feet  wide  in  the  clear,  and  commonly  from  ten  to 
fourteen  feet  high  in  the  back  wall,  by  five  or  six  in  front,  including 
the  wall  and  upright  glasses  together,  and  furnished  with  flues  round 
the  inside  of  the  front  and  end  walls  and  in  several  returns  in  the 
back  wall  for  fires,  and  with  the  whole  roof  overhead  sloping  to  the 
south  entirely  of  glass-work,  supported  on  proper  cross-bearers. 

Stoves  of  much  more  capacious  dimensions  are  frequently  erected 
by  persons  of  fortune  and  curiosity,  for  the  cultivation  of  the  taller 
growing  kinds  of  exotics,  which  shall  be  taken  due  notice  of  after  the 
less  expensive  and  more  generally  used  kinds  are  described. 


THE  BARK  STOVE. 

The  Bark  Stove  is  so  called,  as  being  furnished  with  an  internal 
pit  for  a  bark  bed,  as  well  as  with  flues  for  fire-heat,  and  was  formerly 
the  most  universally  used,  as  being  the  most  eligible  for  the  general 
culture  of  all  kinds  of  the  tenderest  exotics,  as  well  as  for  forcing 
several  sorts  of  hardy  plants,  flowers  and  fruit  to  early  perfection ; 
but  its  complex  arrangements  may  now  be  dispensed  with  by  the 
more  simple  and  efficient  hot-water  apparatus ;  the  bark  being  de- 
signed to  effect  a  constant  moderate  moist  heat  all  the  year  round, 
and  the  flues  used  occasionally  for  fire- heat  in  winter  or  during  cold 
weather,  to  produce  such  an  additional  warmth  in  the  internal  air 
as  may  be  requisite  at  that  season;  the  bark  bed  is  productive  of  a 
uniform  moderate  growing  heat  of  long  duration,  and  was  considered 
to  be  adapted  for  the  reception  and  growth  of  the  most  tender  exotics, 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  105 

which  require  to  be  kept  constantly  plunged  in  their  pots  in  it,  such 
as  pine-apple,  &c.,  in  order  to  enjoy  the  benefit  of  that  durable,  moist 
bottom  heat  about  their  roots,  peculiar  to  bark  beds,  whose  heat  also 
evaporates  and  warms  the  air  of  the  stove  at  all  times,  that  even  the 
plants  on  the  surrounding  shelves  are  comforted  by  its  influence ;  so 
that  with  the  aid  of  fire-heat  in  winter,  regulated  by  a  well  graduated 
thermometer  placed  constantly  in  the  stove  distant  from  the  fire 
place,  and  as  much  in  the  shade  as  possible,  there  are  hardly  any 
exotics  from  the  hottest  regions  of  the  world,  either  woody,  her- 
baceous, or  succulent,  but  may  be  cultivated  in  it,  by  replacing  them 
in  such  different  situations  as  their  nature  may  require. 

In  the  arrangement  of  the  plants  in  this  stove,  some  require  the 
bark-bed,  others  succeed  in  any  part  of  the  house,  and  others,  such 
as  the  succulents,  require  the  dryest  situation  near  the  flues ;  many 
of  the  more  tender,  herbaceous  and  shrubby  plants,  natives  of  the 
hottest  countries,  generally  succeed  best  when  plunged  in  the  bark- 
bed,  though  many  sorts,  both  herbaceous  and  woody,  thrive  tolerably 
well  in  any  part  of  the  bark  stove. 

Such  stoves  as  are  intended  principally  for*  pine-apples,  and  for 
forcing  flowers,  strawberries,  and  some  sorts  of  culinary  esculents, 
&c.,  may  be  only  ten  or  twelve  feet  high  behind,  which  generally 
answers  better  for  such  than  those  of  more  lofty  dimensions ;  or  by 
raising  the  bark-pit  within  wholly  above  the  surface,  and  sinking  the 
front  walk  about  a  foot,  the  roof  may  be  lower,  and  such  plants  by 
that  means  be  brought  nearer  to  the  glass,  which  proves  extremely 
advantageous  to  their  growth. 

When  stoves  are  erected  for  cultivating  and  bringing  to  the  great- 
est possible  perfection  the  taller  kinds  of  exotics,  they  are  made  from, 
sixteen  to  twenty,  or  even  to  twenty-five  feet  high  in  the  back  wall, 
with  width  in  proportion,  by  only  six  feet  height  in  the  front  glasses, 
in  order  to  suit  low  as  well  as  high  plants ;  and  with  the  roof  sloping 
quite  from  the  top  of  the  back  wall  to  the  front,  and  wholly  of 
glass-work,  having  a  capacious  bark-pit  within,  formed  towards  the 
front;  behind  which  is  sometimes  a  pit  of  earth,  either  on  a  level 
with  the  bark-pit  or  with  the  back  walk,  to  receive  particular  plants ; 
in  rear  of  this  is  a  walk,  between  which  and  the  back  wall  is  formed 
a  border  of  good  earth,  to  receive  the  tallest  growing  plants  which  are 
intended  to  be  cultivated.  In  this  kind  of  stove  you  may  cultivate 
exotics,  &c.,  from  the  lowest  to  almost  the  highest  stature,  by  placing 
those  of  the  shortest  growth  forward,  the  tallest  behind,  and  so  on 
according  to  their  several  gradations  of  height. 

However,  these  very  lofty  and  capacious  stoves  are  not  recom- 
mended for  general  use,  they  being  both  very  expensive  in  erecting 
and  in  the  consumption  of  a  great  quantity  of  fuel,  and  not  so  well 
calculated  for  the  growth  of  the  general  run  of  exotics  as  stoves  of  a 
moderate  height,  and  the  hot-water  apparatus. 

Flues  ought  not  to  be  erected  along  the  back  wall  in  such  stoves 
as  have  plants  trained  thereto  or  growing  immediately  close  to  them  ; 
and  one  range  round  the  front  and  ends  will  not  be  sufficient  to  keep 
up  a  due  warmth  in  such  large  houses  in  severe  weather,  without 
consuming  an  immense  quantity  of  fuel,  and  at  times  raising  a  scorch- 


106  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

ing  heat  in  the  parts  of  the  house  next  to  this  single  range,  by  over- 
heating it  in  order  to  force  through  it  a  heat  sufficient  to  keep  the 
entire  of  the  house  warm ;  this  can  never  protect  and  promote  the 
growth  and  health  of  plants  so  well  as  that  gradual  glow  of  moderate 
warmth  issuing  from  flues  of  several  returns,  carried  under  the  walks 
or  other  convenient  places,  as  well  as  round  the  front  and  end  walls, 
either  in  double  or  single  ranges,  and  especially  under  the  back  walk, 
over  which  broad  planks  may  be  laid,  resting  on  loose  bricks,  for  the 
convenience  of  walking  during  the  winter  season ;  from  these  the 
heat  will  be  equally  diffused  through  the  whole  house,  and  to  pro- 
duce which,  half  the  fuel  will  not  be  necessary  that  must  be  con- 
sumed in  keeping  the  house  warm  by  a  single  range  round  the  front 
and  ends  only. 

In  the  erection  of  stoves  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  have  the  ends 
glazed  more  than  half  the  width  of  the  house,  or  at  most,  to  within 
eighteen  inches  of  the  doors,  leaving  that  much  for  piers  between  the 
doors  and  the  upright  end  sashes ;  the  remainder  may  be  carried  up 
with  brick  as  high  as  the  roof  lights. 

In  stoves  that  are  so  long  as  to  require  two  fires,  each  with  its  re- 
spective ranges  of  flues,  it  will  be  proper  to  make  a  glass  partition  in 
the  middle,  and  to  have  two  tan-pits,  that  there  may  be  two  different 
degrees  of  heat  for  plants  from  different  countries ;  and  were  a  range 
of  stoves  built  all  in  one,  and  divided  by  glass  partitions  at  least 
half  the  width  of  the  house  towards  the  front,  it  would  be  of  great 
advantage  to  the  collection,  because  they  may  have  different  degrees 
of  heat  according  to  their  different  natures,  and  likewise  the  air  in 
each  division  may  be  shifted,  by  sliding  the  glasses  of  the  partitions, 
or  by  opening  the  glass  door  which  should  be  made  between  each 
division,  for  the  more  easy  passage  from  one  to  the  other. 

In  the  warmest  of  these  stoves  or  divisions,  should  be  placed  the 
most  tender  exotic  trees  and  plants.  These  being  natives  of  very 
warm  countries,  should  be  plunged  in  the  bark-bed,  and  over  the  flues 
may  be  shelves  on  which  to  place  the  various  species  of  Cactuses, 
Euphorbiums,  Mesembryanthemums,  and  other  very  tender  succulent 
plants  which  require  to  be  kept  dry  in  winter. 

As  in  this  stove  are  placed  the  plants  of  the  hottest  parts  of  the 
East  and  West  Indies,  the  heat  should  be  kept  up  equal  to  that 
marked  Ananas  upon  the  botanical  thermometers,  and  should  never 
be  suffered  to  be  more  than  eight  or  ten  degrees  cooler  at  most,  nor 
should  the  spirit  be  raised  above  ten  degrees  higher  in  the  thermome- 
ter during  the  winter  season,  both  which  extremes  will  be  equally  in- 
jurious to  the  plants. 

The  roofs  of  some  stoves  are  so  made,  that  the  glasses  do  not  slide 
either  up  or  down,  which  is  an  evil  of  great  magnitude;  for  where 
the  sun  is  so  powerful  in  the  months  of  April  and  May,  as  it  is  in 
every  part  of  the  United  States,  the  superabundance  of  heat  col- 
lected in  the  house  on  very  hot  days,  cannot  be  discharged  by  the 
doors  and  sliding  upright  sashes  in  front,  which  forces  the  plants  into 
an  extreme  state  of  vegetation,  and  renders  them  unfit  to  bear  the 
open  air  towards  the  latter  end  of  May,  when  otherwise  the  greater 
number  of  them  might  be  brought  out  with  safety,  without  receiving 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  lot 

such  a  check  by  the  transition,  as  many  cannot  recover  during  the 
summer,  and  causing  many  more  to  appear  much  less  beautiful  than 
they  otherwise  would,  were  they  gradually  inured  to  the  open  air  in 
the  hot-house  before  their  being  brought  out,  by  occasionally  sliding 
open  the  roof  as  well  as  the  front  glasses,  and  never  letting  the  heat 
arise  in  the  house  to  too  high  a  degree. 

NURSERY   AND   SUCCESSION    STOVES. 

Besides  the  main  bark-stove  already  described,  it  is  very  convenient 
to  have  one  or  two  smaller,  such  as  a  nursery-pit,  and  a  succession 
stove,  particularly  where  there  are  large  collections,  and  more  espe- 
cially in  the  culture  of  pine-apples ;  one  serving  as  a  nursery-pit,  in 
which  to  strike  and  nurse  the  young  offspring  crowns,  and  suckers  of 
the  old  pines  for  propagation ;  the  other  as  a  succession- house  for  re- 
ceiving the  year  old  plants  from  the  nursery-pit,  and  forwarding  them 
a  year  to  a  proper  size  for  fruiting  as  succession  plants,  to  furnish  the 
main  stove  or  fruiting-house  every  autumn,  to  succeed  the  old  plants 
then  done  fruiting. 

These  smaller  stove  departments  prove  materially  useful  in  the 
culture  of  pines,  particularly  to  raise  and  nurse  the  young  plants, 
until  arrived  at  a  proper  age  and  size  to  produce  fruit,  then  moved 
into  the  main  stove  or  fruiting-house,  which  being  thus  supplied 
from  these  smaller  stoves,  with  a  succession  of  fruiting-plants  an- 
nually, without  being  crowded  or  incommoded  with  the  rearing  of 
the  said  succession  plants,  proves  a  particular  advantage,  not  only  in 
the  culture  of  the  fruiting-plants,  as  they  often  require  a  higher  de- 
gree of  heat  than  the  succession  plants  at  particular  times,  in  order 
to  forward  and  improve  the  growth  of  their  fruit,  but  it  is  also  mak- 
ing the  best  advantage  of  this  main  department,  to  have  the  bark-bed 
instantly  filled  with  fruiting-plants  only,  producing  a  full  crop  of 
proper  sized  pine-apples  every  year,  which  could  not  always  be  effected 
with  such  certainty  and  perfection  without  the  aid  of  these  succes- 
sion-stoves, because  the  pine-plants  in  their  infant  state  require  some- 
times different  management  from  the  fruiting-plants,  particularly  in 
respect  to  the  degree  of  fire-heat,  which,  in  general,  should  be  more 
moderate  than  for  the  fruiting-plants,  lest  too  much  should  force  them 
into  fruit  in  their  minor  growth,  when  incapable  of  producing  such 
in  any  tolerable  perfection. 

Therefore,  these  smaller  succession-stoves  may  be  erected  as  ap- 
pendages to  the  main  house,  or  may  be  detached  at  some  little  dis- 
tances, as  may  be  convenient ;  though  if  the  situation  admits,  it  may 
be  both  more  convenient  and  ornamental  to  join  them  in  a  line  with 
the  main  stove,  one  at  each  end,  and  nearly  of  the  same  construction, 
but  smaller  both  in  length,  width,  and  height,  if  thought  proper : 
these  are  sometimes  formed  in  the  manner  of  a  common  detached 
bark-pit,  without  any  upright  glasses  in  front,  having  a  wall  all 
around,  five  or  six  feet  high  behind,  gradually  sloping  at  each  end 
to  about  four  feet  in  front,  and  with  only  sliding  glasses  at  top,  more 
particularly  the  nursery-stove,  commonly  and  simply  called  the  pit, 
because  the  whole  internal  space  in  length  and  width  is  often  allotted 


108  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

entirely  as  a  pit  for  a  bark-bed  without  any  walk  within,  or  door  for 
entrance,  the  necessary  culture  being  performed  by  sliding  open  the 
glasses  at  top,  and  the  flues  for  the  fires  being  formed  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  back  wall  above  the  surface  height  of  the  bark-bed  :  how- 
ever, it  may  be  more  eligible  to  form  the  succession-stove  particularly, 
nearly  like  the  main  one,  with  erect  glasses  in  front  and  sloping 
sashes  at  top,  with  a  door  for  entrance,  and  an  alley  or  walk  next 
the  back  wall  at  least,  or  more  eligible  if  continued  all  round  the 
bark-pit. 

Observing,  however,  if  these  smaller  stoves  are  joined  to  the  end 
of  the  main  one,  they  may  be  divided  from  it  only  by  a  sliding  glass 
partition  for  communication  with  each  other,  particularly  the  succes- 
sion and  main  stove,  but  with  separate  furnaces  and  flues  to  each  de- 
partment, because  the  young  pine  plants  do  not  at  all  times  require 
the  same  degree  of  fire-heat  as  the  older  pines,  especially  those  of 
proper  size  for  fruiting,  so  that  by  having  separate  fires,  the  heat  can 
be  regulated  accordingly. 

The  nursery  stove  or  pit  may  be  of  smaller  dimensions  in  respect 
to  width  and  height  than  the  succession  house,  if  thought  convenient; 
and  if  designed  wholly  as  a  pit  without  any  path  or  walk  within,  six 
or  seven  feet  width  may  be  sufficient,  by  five  or  six  high  in  the  back 
wall,  and  four  in  front,  the  whole  internal  space  being  filled  with  tan 
three  feet  deep  to  form  the  bark  bed,  serving  chiefly  as  a  nursery 
in  which  to  strike  and  nurse  the  annual  increase  of  crowns  and 
suckers  of  the  ananas  or  pine  plants  the  first  year ;  also  to  raise  many 
tender  plants  from  seeds,  cuttings,  &c.,  without  incumbering  the  main 
stove ;  and  when  they  are  forwarded  to  such  a  state  of  growth  as  to 
require  more  room,  they  are  removed  to  the  succession  house. 

But  the  succession  house  may  be  nearly  on  the  plan  of  the  main 
stove,  though  of  smaller  dimensions  both  in  the  width  and  height, 
and  is  intended  to  receive  the  year  old  pine  plants  from  the  pit  or 
nursery  stove.  In  order  to  plunge  them  at  greater  distances,  suffi- 
cient to  give  the  whole  proper  scope  to  take  their  full  growth  another 
year,  when  they  will  generally  be  arrived  to  a  proper  size  for  fruit- 
ing the  year  following,  being  previously  removed  in  autumn  to  the 
main  fruiting  stove  to  succeed  the  old  fruiting  plants,  which  gene- 
rally by  September  have  all  yielded  their. produce,  are  then  removed 
away  and  their  place  supplied  by  a  sufficient  quantity  of  large 
plants  from  the  succession  house,  being  arrived  to  a  proper  state  of 
growth  to  produce  fruit  next  summer;  the  largest  succession  house 
is  at  the  same  time  replenished  with  the  plants  from  the  nursery  pit, 
which  next  autumn  will  probably  be  also  arrived  to  a  proper  size  for 
removing  to  the  fruiting  house  to  succeed  the  others,  and  the  nursery- 
pit  supplied  with  young  crowns  and  suckers  of  the  year,  from  the 
fruit  and  old  plants,  to  strike  and  forward  them  in  ready  successions 
for  the  above  occasions. 

Thus  by  having  the  different  stove  departments  always  furnished 
with  pine  plants  of  three  different  stages  of  growth,  succeeding  one 
another  regularly,  i.  e.  the  nursery  pit  containing  the  yearly  crowns 
and  suckers,  the  succession  pit  the  one  and  two  year  plants,  and  the 
main  stove  the  fruiting  plants,  a  constant  succession  is  thereby  annu- 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  109 

ally  obtained,  for  the  same  individual  plants  never  produce  fruit  but 
once;  they,  however,  produce  a  plentiful  supply  of  crowns  and  suckers 
which  commence  proper  plants,  attaining  a  fruiting  state  in  regular 
succession. 

However,  in  many  places,  the  situation  or  convenience  not  admit- 
ting but  of  one  common  stove  to  raise  and  forward  the  pines  and 
other  exotics  in  their  different  stages  of  growth,  at  least  with  probably 
the  assistance  only  of  a  small  detached  bark-pit,  or  a  bark  and  dung 
hot-bed  under  a  large  garden  frame,  to  strike  and  nurse  the  yearling 
crowns  and  suckers  of  the  pines,  £c.,  of  each  year,  until  they  are 
about  a  year  old,  then  moved  into  the  stove ;  where,  with  the  proper 
requisite  culture,  are  produced  not  only  very  good  pine-apples,  but 
also  many  curious  exotics,  flowers,  other  fruits,  &c.,  at  an  early 
season. 

But  having  a  main  stove  with  two  smaller  ones  adjoining  nearly 
on  the  same  plan  as  above  hinted,  you  can  always,  with  greater 
certainty,  obtain  a  regular  annual  succession  of  fruiting  pines  in 
perfection. 

A  private  passage  or  small  door,  made  from  the  back  shed  into  the 
hot-house,  close  to  one  of  the  ends,  or  at  any  convenient  place,  will  be 
found  extremely  useful  in  severe  weather  for  entering  into  the  house 
to  examine  the  temperature  of  the  heat,  or  to  do  the  other  necessary 
work,  when  it  would  be  ineligible  to  open  the  outer  doors. 

It  would  be  an  eligible  way,  for  persons  who  have  large  collections 
of  exotics,  to  have  the  green-house  in  the  middle,  with  a  stove  and 
glass  case  at  each  end ;  the  stoves  to  be  next  the  green-house,  and 
the  glass  cases  at  the  extremities,  made  exactly  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  bark  stoves,  and  to  range  with  them. 

These  glass  cases  being  furnished  with  flues,  but  no  bark-pits,  are 
in  fact  dry  stoves ;  they  may  be  kept  of  different  temperatures  of 
heat,  and  ought  to  be  furnished  with  roof  and  front  coverings  of  some- 
kind  to  be  used  occasionally.  The  bark  stoves  may  also  be  kept  of 
different  temperatures,  so  as  to  suit  the  various  habits  of  the  plants. 

Thus  by  contriving  the  green-house  in  the  middle,  and  a  stove  and 
glass  case  at  each  end,  there  will  be  a  conveniency  for  keeping  plants 
from  all  parts  of  the  world ;  which  cannot  be  otherwise  maintained 
in  good  health,  but  by  placing  them  in  the  different  degrees  of  heat, 
corresponding  with  that  of  their  native  countries. 

THE  DRY- STOVE. 

This  stove  differs  in  no  wise  from  the  bark-stove,  but  in  not  hav- 
ing a  bark-pit;  it  is  furnished  with  flues  as  the  other,  and  conse- 
quently produces  a  more  dry  heat;  being  intended  principally  for  the 
culture  of  some  very  succulent  tender  exotics  of  parched  soils  that 
require  it  to  be  kept  always  dry.  Persons  who  have  full  collections 
of  exotics  prefer  this  kind  of  stove,  in  order  to  deposit  the  most  suc- 
culent kinds  therein,  separate  from  plants  which  perspire  more  freely, 
lest  the  damp  occasioned  by  such  perspiration,  and  the  more  frequent 
watering  of  these  kinds,  should  be  imbibed  by  the  succulents  and 
injure  them. 


110  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

However,  most  of  the  tender  succulent  kinds  are  cultivated  and 
preserved  in  the  bark- stove,  placed  on  shelves,  and  in  dry  situations, 
with  very  good  success. 

In  this  kind  of  stove  are  erected  movable  shelves  or  stands  above 
one  another,  theatre  ways,  on  which  to  place  the  pots  of  the  various 
kinds  of  plants  intended  to  be  kept  therein. 

Stoves  have  been  constructed  on  various  other  plans,  according  to 
the  fancy  of  the  owners  or  their  desire  to  try  experiments;  some  cir- 
cular, some  crescent  form,  and  others  ranging  north  and  south,  with 
double  roofs  and  upright  sashes,  all  of  glass-work;  but  these  not 
being  found  to  answer  as  well  as  those  described,  it  is  unnecessary  to 
take  further  notice  of  them. 

For  the  various  kinds  of  forcing-frames,  and  their  respective  uses, 
see  pages  47  and  48. 

PINES. 

At  this  season  the  pinery  hot-house  requires  good  attendance,  for 
some  of  the  pines  will  now,  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  begin  to 
show  fruit ;  and  your  assistance  is  at  no  time  more  necessary  than 
when  the  fruit  first  appears,  especially  in  one  particular,  the  support- 
ing a  proper  bottom  heat;  for  if  the  heat  of  the  bark-bed  is  not  kept 
up  at  that  time,  the  young  fruit  will  receive  a  cheek  more  than  may 
be  imagined;  as,  notwithstanding  the  air  of  the  house  can  be  suffi- 
ciently warmed  by  the  flues,  yet  these  plants  also  require  always  a 
moderately  brisk  growing  heat  to  their  roots,  but  especially  when  the 
fruit  is  young;  and  without  that  assistance,  they  will  not  advance 
freely  in  the  first  growth,  and  being  checked  therein,  will  be  much 
inferior  in  size  to  what  they  otherwise  would  have  been. 

Examine  therefore  carefully  at  this  time,  the  heat  of  the  bed 
in  which  the  pots  of  pines  are  plunged ;  and  if  you  find  it  very  faint, 
take  up  all  the  pots,  and  let  the  bed  be  forked  up  to  the  bottom. 
But  before  you  proceed  to  this,  if  the  heat  is  found  much  decayed, 
or  the  bark  considerably  wasted,  or  become  very  small  or  earthy,  it 
will  be  advisable  to  add  at  the  same  time  some  new  tan,  first  removing 
away  some  of  the  wasted  bark  at  top  and  sides,  and  then  fill  up  with 
new  bark,  working  the  old  and  new  well  together.  When  that  is 
done,  let  the  pots  be  replunged  again  to  their  riras,  in  a  regular  man- 
ner. •  This  will  enliven  the  heat  greatly;  and,  if  done  in  proper  time, 
the  young  fruit  will  grow  freely. 

Let  the  fires  be  made  very  regularly  every  evening  and  morning, 
and  take  care  that  they  are  not  made  too  strong,  for  that  would  be 
of  very  bad  consequence ;  and  to  avoid  this,  have  a  thermometer 
placed  in  the  hot- house,  as  a  direction  to  regulate  the  degree  of  heat. 
Let  the  thermometer  range  from  70°  at  night  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun 
light. 

Water  should  be  given  to  the  pine-apple  plants  once  a  week,  or  so 
often  as  it  may  seem  necessary,  and  always  very  moderately ;  and  let 
as  little  as  possible  fall  into  the  heart  or  between  the  leaves  at  this 
season. 

For  the  conveniency  of  watering  the  pines  and  other  plants  that 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  Ill 

are  plunged  in  the  bark-bed,  a  long  pipe,  made  of  tin,  would  be 
eligible  to  use  occasionally  ;  this  should  be  in  three  different  joints, 
in  order  that  it  may  be  shortened  or  lengthened  as  you  see  it  con- 
venient :  one  of  these  joints  should  have  a  funnel  made  at  the 
largest  end,  that  by  pouring  the  water  out  of  a  handy  watering-pot, 
into  the  funnel,  the  water  is  conveyed  to  the  pots  in  any  part  of  the 
bed  with  greater  exactness,  without  pouring  it  into  the  heart  of  the 
plants. 

All  other  tender  exotic  plants  in  the  hot-house  or  stove  should  be 
supplied  with  water  as  they  require  it. 

The  woody  kinds  will  require  it  often,  those  of  the  succulent 
tribe  but  seldom ;  or  at  least  but  very  little  must  be  given  them  at  a 
time. 

Be  sure  to  have  soft  water  for  watering  the  different  sorts  of  plants, 
for  which  purpose  you  may  have  a  tub  or  cistern  in  some  convenient 
part  of  the  house  to  contain  it,  in  which  it  is  to  remain  till  the  cold 
chill  is  completely  off. 

In  the  management  of  the  plants  in  the  bark-bed  there  must  be  a 
particular  regard  had  to  the  temperature  of  the  bark,  which  should 
be  about  90°,  and  the  air  of  the  house,  that  neither  be  too  violent, 
as  also  to  water  them  frequently  but  sparingly,  especially  the  shrub- 
by kinds,  because,  when  they  are  in  a  continual  warmth,  which  will 
cause  them  to  perspire  freely,  if  they  have  not  a  proper  supply  to 
answer  their  discharge,  their  leaves  will  decay  and  soon  fall  off. 

In  very  severe  weather,  when  necessity  requires  strong  fires  to  be 
kept  up  for  any  length  of  time,  and  that  the  internal  air  becomes 
thereby  of  a  dry  and  parching  nature,  it  will  be  well  to  sprinkle  the 
flues  occasionally  with  water,  to  raise  a  comforting  steam  in  the  house, 
and  to  restore  the  air  to  its  true  atmospheric  quality,  which  is  always 
most  congenial  to  the  health  of  plants. 

Every  plant  in  the  hot-house  or  stove  should  be  kept  perfectly 
clean  from  dust  or  any  sort  of  foulness;  if  anything  of  that  nature 
appears  on  their  leaves,  let  the  large-leaved  sorts  be  washed  with  a 
sponge,  &c.,  the  others  by  occasionally  watering  them  all  over  the 
top. 

KIDNEY  BEANS   RAISED   IN   THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

Those  who  have  the  conveniency  of  a  hot-house  may  raise  early 
kidney  beans  with  little  trouble.  The  early  cream-colored  dwarf, 
early  China  and  Mohawk,  are  proper  sorts  for  this  purpose. 

The  method  is  this  :  Fill  some  large  pots  or  oblong  narrow  boxes 
with  rich  dry  earth,  and  place  them  on  the  top  of  the  surrounding 
wall  of  the  bark-bed,  or  upon  any  of  the  shelves  near  the  glasses, 
observing  to  plant  four  or  five  beans  in  each  about  an  inch  deep,  or, 
if  oblong  boxes,  of  about  two  feet  length,  plant  the  beans  triangu- 
larways  along  the  middle,  two  or  three  inches  asunder;  and  thus 
the  pots,  &c.,  being  placed  as  above,  the  beans  will  soon  sprout  and 
come  up. 

When  the  beans  have  sprouted,  sprinkle  the  earth  with  a  little 


112  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

water,  which  will  help  the  plants  to  rise ;  when  they  are  up,  water 
them  frequently. 

Let  the  plants  be  supplied  with  proper  waterings  two  or  three 
times  a  week,  and  they  will  grow  freely,  and  produce  plentiful  crops 
of  beans  in  March  and  April. 

Plant  a  successional  crop  in  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  after,  in 
small  pots,  ready  for  turning  out  with  balls  of  earth  into  the  larger 
pots,  &c. 

OF  CUCUMBERS  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Cucumbers  are  sometimes  raised  early,  in  tolerably  good  perfec- 
tion, in  the  hot-house. 

This  is  effected  by  sowing  the  seed  or  planting  young  plants  in 
large  pots,  or  oblong  narrow  boxes,  which  are  to  be  placed  in  a  con- 
venient situation  in  the  hot-house  near  the  glasses.  The  boxes  for 
this  purpose  may  be  the  same  length  and  depth  as  for  kidney-beans. 
Fill  the  pots  or  boxes  with  rich  earth,  and  place  them  up  near  the 
top  glasses,  behind  or  upon  the  top  of  the  back  or  end  flues,  with 
the  bottoms  raised  or  detached  two  or  three  inches  that  the  heat  of 
the  flues  may  transpire  freely,  without  injury  to  the  plants. 

But  the  best  situation  in  the  hot- house  for  cucumber  plants  is  to 
place  them  by  means  of  supports  within  about  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches  of  the  top  glasses,  nearly  under  or  towards  the  upper  ends 
of  the  superior  tiers  of  lights,  not  to  shade,  &c.,  the  other  plants 
below. 

The  seed  may  either  be  sown  in  small  pots  and  placed  in  a  dung 
hot-bed  or  in  the  bark-bed  in  the  hot-house  to  raise  the  plants,  or  may 
be  sown  at  once  in  the  pots  or  boxes,  six  or  eight  seeds  in  a  small 
patch,  or  in  a  box  of  two  or  three  feet  long  you  may  sow  two  such 
patches;  and  when  the  plants  are  up  they  should  be  thinned  out, 
leaving  two  or  three  of  the  strongest  plants  in  each  place. 

Or,  if  you  raise  the  plants  first  in  small  pots  plunged  in  the  bark- 
bed  or  in  a  dung  hot-bed,  let  them  be  afterwards  transplanted,  with 
a  ball  of  earth  about  their  roots,  into  the  boxes  or  larger  pots. 

When  the  runners  of  the  plants  have  advanced  to  the  outside  of 
the  pots  or  boxes,  you  may  fix  up  some  laths  to  support  the  vines  or 
runners,  which  should  be  fastened  thereto.  Let  them  have  water 
frequently,  for  they  will  require  a  little  every  other  day  at  least. 


EARLY   STRAWBERRIES  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Strawberries  may  be  brought  to  early  perfection  in  the  hot-house ; 
and,  if  desired,  this  is  the  time  to  begin  to  introduce  therein  some 
pots  of  good  bearing  plants. 

The  Jjongworth's  prolific,  large  early  scarlet  and  alpine  strawber- 
ries are  the  kinds  that  succeed  for  forcing;  for  this  purpose  they 
should  be  taken  up  and  planted  in  proper  sized  pots,  either  in  the 
months  of  September  or  October,  as  then  directed,  and  protected  in 
garden-frames,  till  wanted  for  forcing ;  but,  if  the  weather  permits, 
you  may  take  them  up  at  any  time,  with  balls  of  earth  about  their 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  113 

roots,  planting  one  good  plant  in  each  pot  —  always  observing  to 
choose  those  of  two  or  three  years  old  and  which  are  full  of  bearers. 
Place  these  pots  towards  the  front  of  the  hot-house,  near  the 
glasses,  and  let  them  have  .water  frequently,  especially  when  they 
are  in  blossom  and  setting  young  fruit,  but  observing  at  these  times 
not  to  water  too  freely  over  the  flowers  for  fear  of  washing  off  the 
impregnating  farina,  giving  it  chiefly  to  the  earth  in  the  pots. 

OF  FLOWERING  PLANTS  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

You  may  now  introduce  into  this  department  many  kinds  of 
flowering  plants,  to  be  forced  into  bloom  at  an  early  season,  such  as 
honeysuckles,  African  heaths,  double-flowering  dwarf  almonds,  and 
cherries,  &c  ',  also  pots  of  pinks,  carnations,  daisies,  double  sweet- 
williams,  rockets,  wall  and  stock-gilly  flowers,  &c.,  and  pots  or 
glasses  of  any  kind  of  bulbous  roots,  planted  either  in  earth  or 
water,  may  also  be  introduced,  with  a  variety  of  curious  annual 
flowers,  which  may  be  sown  in  pots  and  forwarded  there  to  early 
perfection. 

RAISING  PLANTS  AND  CUTTINGS. 
Pig.  12. 


Many  shrubs  and  plants  that  are  difficult  to  raise  by  cuttings  may 
be  increased  by  layers.  A  layer  may  be  defined  as  a  cutting  only 
partially  separated  from  the  plant.  The  branch  is  bent  down  to  the 
ground,  and,  at  the  bend,  a  cut  is  made  half  through  the  shoot,  cut- 
ting upwards  for  about  half  an  inch.  Some  plants  do  as  well  as  if 
the  shoot  is  twisted  at  the  bend ;  anything  to  check  the  flow  of  sap 
will  cause  a  root  formation.  The  figure  shows  the  appearance  of  a 
layer.  The  line  at  1  represents  the  surface.  At  2,  the  cut  part  is 
shown,  and  strong  branches  will  require  to  be  kept  in  place  by  a 
stout  peg,  as  here  represented.  Nearly  all  plants,  even  fir-trees,  may 
be  increased  by  this  practice. 


114  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 


FEBRUARY. 

DESIGNS  FOR  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

THE  Kitchen  Garden  is  a  principal  district  of  garden-ground  allot- 
ted for  the  culture  of  all  kinds  of  esculent  herbs  and  roots  for  culi- 
nary purposes,  &c. 

This  may  be  said  to  be  the  most  useful  and  consequential  depart- 
ment of  gardening,  since  its  products  plentifully  supply  our  tables 
with  the  necessary  support  of  life ;  for  it  is  allowed  that  health  de- 
pends much  on  the  use  of  a  proper  quantity  of  wholesome  vegetables, 
so  that  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for  every  person  possessed  of 
a  due  extent  of  ground  to  have  a  good  kitchen  garden  for  the  supply 
of  his  family.  This  garden  is  not  only  useful  for  raising  all  sorts  of 
esculent  plants  and  herbage,  but  also  all  the  choicer  sorts  of  tree  and 
shrub  fruits,  &c.,  both  on  espaliers  and  standards ;  and  the  annual 
cultivation  of  the  ground  by  manuring,  digging,  hoeing,  &c.,  neces- 
sary in  the  culture  of  the  esculent  herbage,  greatly  encourages  all 
sorts  of  fruit-trees,  preserves  them  in  health  and  vigor,  so  as  always 
to  produce  large  and  fair  fruit ;  for  which  reason,  in  the  kitchen  gar- 
den should  always  be.  plan  ted  the  choicest  sort  of  fruit-trees,  particu- 
larly for  espaliers  and  walls;  likewise  some  standards,  if  set  a  con- 
siderable way  asunder,  so  as  not  to  shade  the  under  crops  too  much  ; 
and  when  the  trees  are  judiciously  disposed,  there  will  be  nearly  the 
same  room  for  the  crops  of  herbaceous  esculents  as  without  them ; 
so  that  this  garden  may  be  reckoned  both  as  a  kitchen  and  fruit 
garden. 

As  to  the  situation  of  this  garden,  with  respect  to  the  other  dis- 
tricts, if  designed  principally  as  a  kitchen  and  fruit  garden,  distinct 
from  the  other  parts,  and  there  is  room  for  choice  of  situation,  it 
should  generally  be  placed  detached  entirely  from  the  pleasure- 
ground  j  also  as  much  out  of  view  of  the  front  of  the  habitation  as 
possible,  at  some  reasonable  distance,  either  behind  it  or  towards 
either  side  thereof,  so  as  its  walls  or  other  fences  may  not  obstruct 
any  desirable  prospect  either  of  the  pleasure  garden,  fields,  or  the 
adjacent  country;  having  regard,  however,  to  place  it,  if  possible, 
where  the  situation  and  soil  is  eligible,  as  hereafter  illustrated ;  and 
if  its  situation  is  unavoidably  such  as  to  interfere  with  the  pleasure 
gardens,  so  as  its  fences  may  be  thought  disagreeable  to  view,  they 
may  be  shut  out  from  sight  by  intervening  plantations  of  shrubs  and 
trees. 

But  as  in  many  places  they  are  limited  to  a  moderate  compass  of 
ground,  and  in  others,  though  having  scope  enough,  require  but  a 
small  extent  of  garden,  you  may,  in  either  case,  have  the  kitchen, 
fruit,  and  pleasure  garden  all  in  one ;  having  the  principal  walks 
spacious,  and  the  borders  next  them  of  considerable  breadth ;  the 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  115 

back  part  of  them  planted  with  a  range  of  espalier  fruit-trees,  sur- 
rounding the  quarters ;  the  front  with  flowers  and  small  shrubs ;  and 
the  inner  quarters  for  the  growth  of  the  kitchen  vegetables,  &c. 


SITUATION,  SOIL,  WATER,  EXTENT,  ETC. 

As  to  situation,  it  can  only  be  observed  in  general,  that  both  high 
and  low,  if  the  soil  be  suitable,  will  produce  good  crops  of  esculent 
herbage  and  fruits,  though  a  moderately  low  situation  is  the  most 
preferable,  as  being  less  exposed  to  the  influence  of  cold  cutting 
winds  in  spring,  and  more  retentive  of  moisture  during  the  summer 
months,  which  are  advantages  worthy  of  attention  both  on  account 
of  the  early  and  of  the  other  principal  crops.  A  situation  having  a 
moderate  slope  is  very  eligible  for  this  purpose,  as  in  such  a  spot 
there  will  not  be  any  danger  of  water  standing,  nor  of  being  too  wet 
at  any  season ;  and  if  it  slopes  towards  the  south,  it  is  the  more  de- 
sirable, as  it  will  not  only  be  better  defended  from  the  cold  north- 
westerly winds,  but  by  its  exposure  or  aspect  inclining  to  the  sun,  you 
may  always  expect  to  have  the  earliest  crops ;  or  when  the  situation 
is  in  some  parts  a  little  elevated  or  gently  sloping,  and  in  others  low 
and  moist,  it  may  be  some  advantage,  as  the  higher  or  sloping  ground 
will  suit  some  early  crops,  arid  serve  for  wintering  several  sorts  of 
plants  that  are  impatient  of  copious  moisture  in  that  season,  such  as 
artichokes,  spinage,  corn,  salad,  lettuce,  &c.;  and  the  low  ground 
will  be  eligible  for  late  summer  crops,  as  beets,  kidney-beans,  cauli- 
flowers, cabbages,  lettuce,  and  several  others.  -However,  as  to  choice 
of  situation  and  soil,  this  only  is  practicable  in  large  estates;  but 
where  persons  are  limited  to  a  moderate  space,  they  must  be  content 
with  such  as  nature  affords ;  observing  in  this  case,  that  if  the  natural 
soil  is  of  a  proper  temperament  and  depth,  you  need  not  be  under 
any  great  anxiety  about  the  situation  if  it  is  moderately  dry,  and  not 
apt  to  be  overflowed  in  winter ;  even  in  that  case,  it  may  be  remedied 
or  greatly  helped,  by  digging  two  or  three  long,  narrow  canals,  and 
from  these  some  under-ground  hollow  drains,  the  earth  from  which 
will  help  to  raise  the  contiguous  ground  higher,  and  the  water  in  the 
canals  will  be  convenient  for  watering  the  plants.  Remarking  that 
a  situation  too  wet  in  winter  should  be  guarded  against  as  much  as 
the  nature  of  the  place  will  admit ;  for  in  such  land  you  can  never 
have  early  nor  good  general  crops,  nor  will  the  fruit-trees  be  pros- 
perous. 

With  respect  to  soil,  that  for  a  kitchen  garden  of  all  others,  re- 
quires to  be  naturally  good,  of  depth  enough  for  the  growth  of  the 
large  perpendicular  esculent  roots,  as  carrots,  parsneps,  red  beet, 
horse-radish,  &c.,  also  for  the  growth  of  fruit-trees,  a  very  material 
article;  so  that  the  proper  soil  for  these  general  purposes  should,  if 
possible,  be  from  about  a  foot  and  a  half  to  two  feet  deep,  or  more ; 
but  much  less  than  a  foot  and  a  half  depth  will  be  a  disadvantage ; 
so  much  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  soil  for  a  kitchen  and  fruit 
garden,  that  where  there  is  scope  of  ground  to  choose  from,  we  can- 
not be  too  cautious  at  first  in  fixing  on  a  proper  spot  where  the  soil 
is  good  and  deep  enough,  as  above,  before  gravel,  clay,  or  other  bad 


116  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

soils  are  come  at,  which  should  always  be  more  particularly  attended 
to  when  designed  to  furnish  the  ground  with  a  choice  collection  of 
fruit-trees,  either  for  walls,  espaliers,  or  standards;  for,  without  a 
due  depth  of  good  earth,  these  will  neither  bear  well  nor  be  of  long 
duration. 

Different  sorts  of  soils  are  met  with  in  different  parts,  as  loamy, 
clayey,  sandy,  &c.  A  loamy  soil,  either  of  a  brown  or  black  color, 
is  the  best  that  can  be  for  this  purpose,  more  particularly  a  light 
sandy  hazel  loam,  which  always  works  pliable  at  all  seasons,  not  apt 
to  be  too  wet  and  cloggy  at  every  shower  of  rain,  nor  bind  in  dry, 
hot  weather;  this  soil,  however,  although  in  many  places  it  is  the 
most  general  superficial  earth,  is  not  common  to  all  parts.  A  clayey, 
strong,  stubborn  soil,  is  the  worst  of  all  earths,  and  must  be  mended 
by  sandy  materials,  ashes,  and  other  loosening  light  substances.  A 
sandy  soil  is  common  in  many  places,  which  is  of  a  very  light,  sharp 
nature ;  this  must  be  fertilized  by  plenty  of  rotten  dung  and  strong 
earths,  when  they  can  be  easily  procured. 

It  is  observable  that  ground  which  constantly  produces  good  crops 
of  grain  and  grass,  is  also  proper  for  the  growth  of  all  esculent  herbs 
and  fruit-trees. 

Choose,  however,  the  best  soil  you  can,  according  to  the  situation 
and  extent  of  your  ground,  and  if  it  happens  to  prove  unfavorable 
art  must  assist;  for  if  it  is  of  a  light  sandy  nature,  it  may  easily  be 
mended  by  adding  a  quantity  of  any  kind  of  rotten  or  other  good 
dung ;  and  if  of  a  very  light,  sharp,  hungry  temperament,  earths  of 
stronger  substance,  such  as  loam  and  the  like,  if  it  can  be  easily 
obtained,  must  be  added  occasionally,  along  with  plenty  of  dung, 
working  the  whole  with  the  natural  soil  of  the  garden  ;  and  should 
your  garden  be  of  a  clayey,  cold,  damp  nature,  add  light  materials, 
both  of  rich  composts  and  light  sandy  soils ;  nothing  is  more  proper, 
where  it  can  be  had,  than  plenty  of  coal  ashes,  &c.,  for  opening  and 
warming  all  tough,  stubborn,  cold  soils. 

Water  is  a  very  essential  article  in  a  kitchen  garden  in  summer, 
to  water  all  new  transplanted  plants  and  others  that  cannot  subsist 
without  a  due  supply  of  moisture  during  the  drought  of  that  season  ; 
therefore,  in  large  gardens,  where  practicable,  one  or  more  reservoirs 
of  water  should  be  contrived  in  the  most  convenient  part  of  the 
ground,  either  in  basins  or  narrow  canals,  and  supplied  with  water 
from  some  contiguous  spring,  river,  brook,  pond,  well,  &c. 

The  necessary  space  of  ground  proper  for  a  family  kitchen  garden, 
may  be  from  about  a  quarter  of  an  acre,  or  less,  to  six  or  eight  acres, 
or  more,  according  to  the  appropriated  limits  of  ground,  the  number 
and  demand  of  the  family,  the  consumption  by  sales,  or  the  expense 
the  proprietor  would  choose  to  bestow  on  the  making  and  general 
culture.  A  kitchen  garden  of  an  acre  will  nearly  employ  one  man, 
especially  if  it  be  furnished  with  espalier  and  other  fruit-trees,  and 
so  in  proportion  to  a  garden  of  smaller  or  larger  extent :  a  garden  of 
the  above  size  will  produce  a  very  plentiful  supply  of  esculent  herbage 
and  fruit  sufficient  at  least  for  a  family  of  ten  or  fifteen  persons ;  but 
on  large  estates,  and  where  the  family  is  considerable  in  proportion, 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  lit 

and  not  limited  to  space  of  ground,  three  or  four  acres  of  kitchen 
garden  may  be  necessary ;  and  some  very  large  families  have  them 
of  six  or  eight  acres  extent. 

If  the  produce  is  intended  for  sale,  the  garden  must  be  large  in 
proportion  to  the  demand. 

FENCES  FOR  INCLOSING  THE  GROUND. 

With  respect  to  fences  for  inclosing  the  ground,  it  is  most  neces- 
sary to  have  an  effectual  fence  of  some  sort  around  the  kitchen-gar- 
den, both  for  security  of  the  produce  and  to  defend  tender  and  early 
crops  from  cutting  winds. 

Previous  to  fencing  the  ground,  the  proper  shape  or  form  for  the 
garden  is  to  be  considered ;  the  most  eligible  form  of  a  kitchen-gar- 
den is  that  either  of  a  square  or  oblong  square ;  but  the  figure  may 
be  varied  as  the  necessity  of  the  case  may  require ;  keeping,  however, 
as  near  as  possible  to  the  square  or  oblong  form,  especially  if  the 
ground  is  to  be  fenced  with  materials  for  training  fruit-trees  ;  no  other 
shape  answers  so  well  for  that  purpose ;  for  trial  having  been  made 
of  circles,  ovals,  semicircles,  angles,  &c.,  none  succeed  near  so  well 
as  the  square  form. 

Different  sorts  of  fences  are  used  for  inclosing  this  ground,  as  walls, 
palings,  and  hedges,  &c. 

Sometimes  board  fences  or  palings  are  used,  both  for  protection 
and  for  training  fruit-trees  to.  When  such  are  intended  for  trees, 
the  boarding  should  be  tongued  and  closely  joined  edge  to  edge,  so 
as  to  form  a  plane  or  even  surface  for  the  commodious  training  the 
branches. 

In  gardens  where  no  wall  trees  are  intended,  a  hedge,  or  bank  and 
hedge  is  a  very  proper  fence ;  which  may  be  so  trained  as  to  form 
both  an  effectual  fence  against  men  and  beasts,  also  to  shelter  par- 
ticular parts  of  the  ground  for  raising  early  crops  :  a  hawthorn  hedge 
is  the  most  proper,  though  other  sorts  may  be  used. 

No  fencing,  however,  for  a  kitchen-garden  where  intended  to  have 
wall  trees,  especially  in  the  more  northerly  parts  of  the  Union,  is 
equal  to  brick  walls,  which  are  considerably  stronger,  warmer,  and 
more  durable  than  paling  fences;  and  their  natural  warmth,  together 
with  their  reflection  of  the  sun's  heat,  is  the  most  effectual  for  the 
growth  and  ripening  of  the  latest  and  more  delicate  kinds  of  fruit. 

Hot  walls  for  forcing  by  fire  heat,  &c.,  are  often  erected  in  large 
kitchen-gardens  j  for  an  account  of  which  see  page  55. 

PREPARING  AND  LAYING  OUT  THE  GROUND. 

The  whole  ground  should  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades  deep ; 
observing  if  the  soil  is  poor  or  of  bad  quality,  and  wants  amendment, 
either  of  dung  or  any  of  the  materials  before  mentioned,  such  must 
previously  be  added,  and  then  trenched  in  betwixt  the  bottom  and 
top  pits,  so  as  next  year  when  it  comes  to  be  digged  again,  and  the 
compost  being  well  meliorated,  will  be  worked  up  and  mixed  with 
the  natural  soil. 


118  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

Do  not  omit  enriching  and  improving  the  borders  of  the  wall*  and 
espalier  trees,  by  adding  a  considerable  portion  of  rotten  dung;  and 
if  the  natural  soil  is  not  good,  add  also,  if  possible,  some  good  loamy 
earth  from  the  surface  of  a  field  or  pasture  common,  either  to  the 
whole,  or  rather  than  fail,  a  few  barrowfuls  at  first  to  each  place 
where  a  tree  is  to  stand,  and  improve  the  rest  afterwards  by  degrees 
at  leisure. 

The  ground  must  be  divided  into  compartments  for  regularity  and 
convenience.  A  border  must  be  carried  round  close  to  the  boundary 
walls  or  fences,  not  less  than  five,  but  if  six  or  eight  feet  wide,  the 
better,  both  for  raising  various  early  and  other  kitchen  crops,  and 
for  the  benefit  of  the  wall  trees,  if  any,  that  their  roots  may  have 
full  scope  to  run  in  search  of  nourishment;  and  moreover,  the  annual 
digging  and  stirring  the  ground  for  the  culture  of  the  herbaceous 
esculents,  greatly  encourages  the  trees ;  hence  the  utility  of  having 
a  broad  border.  Next  to  this  border  a  walk  should  be  continued  also 
all  around  the  garden  of  proper  width,  as  mentioned  below ;  then 
proceed  to  divide  the  interior  parts  into  two,  four  or  more  principal 
divisions  and  walks,  if  its  extent  be  large ;  first,  if  the  ground  is  of 
some  considerable  width,  a  straight  walk  should  run  directly  through 
the  middle  of  the  garden ;  and  another,  if  thought  necessary,  may 
be  directed  across  the  ground,  intersecting  the  first ;  and  if  the  gar- 
den extends  any  considerable  length,  two  or  more  such  cross  walks 
may  be  necessary;  the  width  of  the  walks  may  be  from  about  five 
to  ten  or  twelve  feet,  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  the  garden  ;  and 
each  of  the  quarters  should  be  surrounded  with  a  five  or  six  feet 
wide  border ;  and  a  range  of  espalier  fruit-trees  may  be  planted  along 
towards  the  back  part  of  each  border,  so  that  every  quarter  will  be 
inclosed  with  an  espalier,  which  will  be  ornamental  in  growth,  and 
profitable  in  the  annual  production  of  superior  fruit  of  different 
kinds. 

I  would  not,  however,  by  any  means  advise  dividing  small  or 
moderate-sized  gardens  into  too  many  walks  and  small  quarters,  espe- 
cially if  they  are  to  be  surrounded  by  espaliers,  which  would  render 
them  too  confined  for  the  proper  growth  of  culinary  herbage ;  besides, 
it  would  be  wasting  too  much  of  the  ground  in  walks. 

In  one  of  the  quarters  a  place  should  be  allotted  for  the  framing 
ground ;  that  is,  a  place  for  making  the  hot-beds  for  raising  early 
cucumbers,  melons,  and  other  tender  plants ;  fixing  on  a  spot  for  this 
purpose,  full  to  the  sun  from  rising  to  setting,  sheltered  as  much  as 
possible  from  the  northerly  winds,  and  conveniently  situated  for 
bringing  in  the  dung  for  the  hot-beds. 

This  place,  if  not  so  situated  as  to  be  sheltered  by  the  walls  or 
other  fences  of  the  garden,  it  will  be  of  much  advantage  to  inclose 
it  with  a  close  fence  of  some  kind,  serving  both  to  break  off  the 
winds,  and  by  having  a  door  to  lock,  will  preserve  your  crops  more 

*  Observe  that  all  trees  planted  against  and  trained  to  either  paling  or 
board  fences,  &c.,  producing  fruit  on  one  side  only,  are  denominated  wall 
trees,  as  well  as  if  planted  to  actual  brick  or  stone  walls  ;  in  contradistinc- 
tion to  espalier  trees,  which  produce  fruit  on  both  sides. 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  119 

secure ;  these  fences  may  be  six  or  seven  feet  high  in  the  back  or  north 
side,  with  both  the  side  fences  sloping  gradually  to  about  five  feet 
high  in  front,  which  should  always  be  lowest  to  admit  the  sun  freely. 

With  regard  to  the  borders  and  walks  of  this  garden,  the  outer 
borders  adjoining  the  walks  should  be  neatly  formed,  the  edges  made 
firm  and  straight,  and  the  walk  gravelled,  or  laid  with  other  dry  ma- 
terials. 

The  edges  of  the  borders  in  small  gardens  are  frequently  planted 
with  box,  &c.,  especially  in  gardens  where  the  kitchen  and  pleasure- 
ground  are  all  in  one }  sometimes  part  are  edged  with  under  shrubby 
aromatic  herbs,  as  thyme,  savory,  hyssop,  and  the  like,  but  unless 
these  are  kept  low  and  neat  they  appear  unsightly ;  some,  however, 
use  no  planted  edgings  at  all  in  kitchen  gardens,  only  have  the  edge 
of  the  border  made  up  even,  treading  it  firm  that  it  may  stand,  then 
cut  it  straight  by  line ;  sometimes  along  the  top  of  this  edging  is 
planted  a  row  of  strawberries,  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  asunder ;  they 
will  bear  plentifully  and  have  a  good  effect,  observing  to  string 
them  several  times  in  summer  to  preserve  them  neat  and  within  due 
compass. 

Sometimes  grass-walks  are  used,  but  these  are  rather  improper  for 
general  use  in  kitchen  gardens,  especially  in  such  parts  of  the  gar- 
den where  wheelbarrows  are  obliged  to  come  often,  which  would  cut 
and  greatly  deface  them ;  besides,  they  are  apt  to  be  wet  and  dis- 
agreeable in  all  wet  weather  and  in  winter ;  but  if  any  are  intended 
for  summer's  walking,  they  should  be  only  in  some  dry  part  of  the 
garden,  and  never  let  them  be  general,  for  besides  the  aforementioned 
inconveniences,  they  are  apt  tp  harbor  slugs  and  other  crawling  ver- 
min, to  the  detriment  of  the  adjacent  crops. 

The  espaliers  should  be  planted  in  one  range  round  each  main 
quarter,  about  four  or  five  or  six  feet  from  the  outer  edge  of  the  bor- 
der, in  proportion  to  its  width,  and  from  about  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
asunder,  according  to  the  sorts  of  fruit-trees  you  plant. 

Within  the  espaliers  in  the  quarters,  you  may  plant  some  standard 
and  fruit-trees  of  the  choicer  sorts,  at  fifty  feet  or  more  distance  each 
way,  especially  the  large  growing  standards,  that  they  may  not  shade 
the  ground  too  much. 

Likewise  in  the  quarters  may  be  planted  the  small  kinds  of  fruit- 
shrubs,  as  gooseberries,  currants  and  raspberries,  in  cross  rows,  so  as 
to  divide  the  quarters  into  breaks  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet  wide,  or 
more  ;  others  in  a  single  range  along  near  the  outward  edges,  or  some 
in  continued  plantations,  placing  the  bushes  nine  feet  asunder  in  each 
row,  and  if  kept  somewhat  fan-spreading  the  way  of  the  rows,  they 
will  not  encumber  the  ground,  and  will  bear  very  plentiful  crops  of 
large  fruit ;  besides,  between  these  rows  you  can  have  various  early 
and  late  crops  of  vegetables. 

In  many  places,  however,  as  formerly  noticed,  there  is  but  a  small 
compass  of  ground,  or  so  limited  as  to  be  obliged  to  have  the  kitchen, 
fruit,  and  pleasure-gardens  all  in  one,  or  at  least  often  all  within  the 
same  general  inclosure,  in  which  case,  if  any  distinct  part  of  the 
ground  is  required  for  ornament,  a  portion  of  it  next  the  house  may 
be  laid  out  in  a  lawn  or  grass-plat,  bounded  with  a  shrubbery,  beyond 


120  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

•which  have  the  kitchen-ground,  separating  it  also  from  the  other  with 
shrubhery  compartments :  the  kitchen  garden  may  also  be  laid  out  with 
ornamental  walks  and  borders,  having  a  broad  border  all  round,  and 
next  this,  a  walk  from  five  or  six  to  eight  feet  wide,  carried  all  round 
the  garden,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  and  if  the  ground  is  of  some 
considerable  width,  may  have  one  of  similar  dimensions  extended 
directly  through  the  middle ;  and  next  the  walks  have  a  border  of 
four  or  five  to  six  or  seven  feet  wide,  carried  round  the  quarters  or 
principal  divisions,  which  border,  if  raised  a  little  sloping,  from  the 
front  to  the  back  part,  will  appear  better  than  if  quite  flat;  planting 
a  range  of  espalier  fruit-trees  along  towards  the  back  edge  of  the 
border,  so  as  immediately  to  surround  the  quarters,  allotting  the  out- 
sides  of  the  borders  for  small  esculents  or  flowers,  and  small  flower- 
ing shrubs,  having  the  edges  planted  with  box,  &c.,  or  some  with 
strawberries  and  other  edging-plants,  and  the  walks  neatly  laid  with 
gravel  or  other  materials  before  mentioned ;  the  inside,  within  the 
espaliers,  to  be  the  kitchen-ground,  dividing  it,  if  thought  necessary, 
by  rows  of  gooseberry,  currant,  and  raspberry  plants. 

But  when  necessary  to  have  the  whole  space  of  the  kitchen  gar- 
den employed  for  real  use,  no  ground  should  be  lost  in  ornamental 
borders  and  walks  :  have  a  border  all  around  the  boundary  fence,  five 
or  six  feet  wide,  except  the  south  borders,  which  should  be  seven  or 
eight  feet  broad,  because  of  their  great  use  for  raising  early  crops ; 
and  have  a  walk  around  the  garden,  not  more  than  a  yard  to  five  or 
six  feet  wide,  allowing  the  same  width  for  the  middle  walks,  or  so  as 
to  admit  of  wheelbarrows  passing  to  bring  in  the  manure,  &c.,  and 
may  either  have  a  four  feet  wide  border  all  around  each  quarter  next 
the  walks,  or  not,  as  you  shall  think  proper;  laying  the  walks  neatly 
with  any  gravelly  materials,  or  with  coal  ashes,  &c.,  so  as  to  have 
dry  walking  and  wheeling  with  a  barrow  in  all  weathers. 

GENERAL  CULTURE  OF  THE  GROUND. 

With  respect  to  the  general  culture  of  the  kitchen  garden,  it  con- 
sists principally  in  a  general  annual  digging,  proper  manuring,  sow- 
ing and  planting  the  crops  properly,  pricking  out,  planting,  and  trans- 
planting various  particular  crops,  keeping  the  ground  clean  from 
•weeds,  and  watering  the  crops  occasionally  in  summer. 

As  to  digging,  a  general  digging  must  be  performed  annually  in 
winter  or  spring,  for  the  reception  of  the  principal  crops;  also  as 
often  as  any  new  crops  are  to  be  sown  or  planted  at  any  season  of 
the  year,  remarking  that  the  general  digging  for  the  reception  of  the 
main  crops  of  principal  esculents  in  spring,  I  should  advise  to  be 
performed  by  trenching  either  one  or  two  spades  deep,  besides  the 
paring  at  top,  though  except  for  some  deep  rooting  plants,  as  carrots, 
parsneps,  &c.,  one  good  spade  deep  may  be  sufficient  for  common 
trenching,  unless  on  particular  occasions,  to  trench  as  deep  as  the 
good  soil  admits,  to  turn  the  exhausted  earth  to  the  bottom  and  the 
fresh  to  the  top  to  renew  the  soil.  However,  you  should  be  careful 
not  to  trench  deeper  than  the  proper  soil ;  and  the  trenching  only 
one  spade  deep,  will  much  more  effectually  renew  the  soil  than  plain 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  121 

digging;  and  by  paring  the  top  of  each  trenching  two  or  three  inches 
deep  into  the  bottom,  all  seeds  of  weeds  on  the  surface  are  thereby 
buried  so  deep  that  they  cannot  grow  ;*  and  I  should  likewise  advise 
that  the  general  digging  be  performed  principally,  especially  in  stiff 
ground*  before  the  setting  in  of  the  winter  frosts,  or  early  in  spring; 
but  it  would  be  better  if  done  some  considerable  time  before  the  sea- 
son for  putting  in  the  crops,  that  the  ground  might  have  the  advantage 
of  fallow,  to  meliorate  and  enrich  it,  and  always  let  the  ground  be 
trenched  in  rough  ridges,  that  it  may  receive  all  possible  benefit  from 
the  sun,  air,  rains,  frosts,  &c.,  to  fertilize  and  pulverize  the  soil  before 
it  is  levelled  down  for  the  reception  of  seeds  and  plants ;  and  this 
levelling  down  will  be  an  additional  improvement  in  breaking,  divid- 
ing, and  meliorating  the  earth.  Plain  digging,  however,  may  be 
sufficient  for  most  of  the  slight  crops,  especially  in  summer  or  autumn, 
after  the  ground  has  been  trench-digged  in  the  general  winter  or 
spring  digging. 

As  to  manure — any  kind  of  dung,  or  compost  of  dung  and  earth, 
is  proper ;  and  if  this  could  be  suited  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  it 
would  be  of  greater  advantage,  that  is,  for  ground  of  a  strong,  heavy, 
cold  nature,  have  for  manure  a  compost  of  well-rotted  dung,  ashes, 
or  any  sandy  earths ;  and  if  light  sandy  ground,  have  the  moistest 
sort  of  dung  and  heavy  earths ;  though  any  kind  of  well-rotted  dung 
will  suit  as  proper  manure  for  almost  every  soil,  but  none  better  than, 
the  dung  of  old  hot-beds,  which  is  the  most  common  manure  in. 
kitchen  gardens,  being  horse-stable  dung,  first  used  in  hot-beds,  where 
it  becomes  rotted  to  a  soft,  moist  temperament  of  an  extremely  en- 
riching quality,  and  suits  almost  all  kinds  of  soil  and  plants,  or  some 
of  the  same  quality  from  dung-hills  is  equally  eligible ;  but  well-rotted 
neat's  dung  is  also  very  good,  particularly  for  light  grounds ;  or  a 
compost  of  different  kinds,  as  horse  dung,  neat's  dung,  hog's  dung, 
farm-yard  dung  or  mulch,  ashes,  lime-rubbish  broken  small,  sawdust, 
rotten  tan,  having  all  lain  together  till  well  rotted,  will  make  excel- 
lent compost  manure. 

The  manuring  or  dunging  the  ground  may  be  necessary  every  year 
or  two  ;  for  all  crops  being  of  an  exhausting  nature  in  every  soil,  the 
vegetative  vigor  of  the  soils  must  be  supported  accordingly  by  a  pro- 
per application  of  manure ;  but  once  every  two  or  three  years,  at 
farthest,  the  ground  in  general  will  want  amendment ;  though,  where 
there  is  plenty  of  dung,  give  it  as  far  as  it  will  go  every  year,  espe- 
cially for  the  principal  crops,  such  as  onions,  cauliflowers,  cabbages, 
&c.,  for  as  the  different  crops  exhaust  the  soil,  the  addition  of  dung 
fertilizes  and  renews  it,  which  when  duly  applied  in  proper  quantities, 
the  various  crops  will  not  only  be  much  finer,  but  arrive  to  earlier 
perfection  than  in  poor  starved  ground. 

But  for  some  particular  crops,  ground  which  has  been  well  manured 
the  year  before,  will  be  more  eligible  than  if  immediately  fresh 
dunged  the  same  year ;  such  as  for  some  of  the  long  fusiform-rooted 
kinds,  as  carrots  and  parsneps,  &c.,  unless  the  dung  is  perfectly  rotted, 

*  When  the  good  soil  is  less  than  two  feet  deep,  the  under  base,  or  in- 
ferior portion,  my  be  loosened  and  left  in  the  bottom. 


122  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

mellow  and  mouldy,  that  these  long  roots  can  readily  make  their  way 
straight  through  in  their  perpendicular,  downward  growth  ;  for  when 
the  dung  manure  is  rank  and  lumpy,  it  is  very  apt  to  impede  the 
young  descending  radicle,  and  occasion  the  main  root  to  fork  or  grow 
crooked,  more  especially  the  carrots,  which  also  in  some  fresh-dunged 
ground  are  sometimes  apt  to  canker. 

All  manuring  should  generally  be  performed  in  winter  or  spring, 
to  be  dug  in  at  the  general  annual  digging,  taking  opportunity  of 
frosty  or  very  dry  weather  to  wheel  in  the  dung  for  the  principal  ma- 
nuring, as  it  may  then  be  performed  more  easy  and  clean  without 
clogging  or  spoiling  the  walks,  or  tearing  up  the  ground ;  laying  it 
in  heaps  by  barrowfuls  at  equal  distances ;  afterwards  spread  it  evenly, 
and  dig  it  in  one  spade  deep  or  more. 

In  regard  to  cropping  the  ground,  the  proper  situation  for,  and 
method  of  raising  the  different  plants,  is  fully  explained  in  the  dif- 
ferent months  under  their  respective  heads ;  I  will  therefore  only  hint 
here,  that  it  is  eligible  to  allot  the  driest,  warmest,  and  most  sunny 
situation  for  the  early  crops,  and  the  other  parts  for  the  main  crops. 

The  south  borders  are  proper  for  raising  the  earliest  plants,  as 
early  peas,  beans,  radishes,  spinage,  lettuce,  carrots,  small  salad-herbs, 
kidney-beans,  &c. ;  the  east  and  west  borders  for  succession  of  early 
crops,  and  the  north  borders,  which,  being  shady  and  cool,  serve  for 
raising  and  pricking  out  many  small  plants,  slips  and  cuttings  in 
summer;  though  all  these  borders,  in  every  exposure,  may  be  made 
useful  at  all  seasons.  The  borders  next  the  espaliers  are  proper  for 
crops  of  small  plants  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  as  lettuce,  endive, 
spinage,  small  salad-herbs,  strawberries,  and  several  others,  both  to 
stand  and  for  transplantation,  according  to  the  mode  of  culture  of  the 
different  sorts ;  and  by  keeping  all  the  borders  constantly  well  fur- 
nished with  various  esculents,  disposed  according  to  their  different 
growths,  they,  besides  their  usefulness,  effect  a  delightful  variety. 

In  the  internal  parts,  called  the  quarters,  should  always  be  raised 
the  larger  principal  crops,  such  as  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  broccoli, 
cole  worts,  peas,  beans,  kidney-beans,  onions,  leeks,  carrots,  parsneps, 
beets,  potatoes,  turnips,  artichokes,  celery,  general  crops  of  lettuce, 
spinage,  horse-radish,  &c. 

As  many  of  the  esculent  plants  succeed  best  in  rows,  such  as  peas, 
beans,  cauliflowers,  and  all  the  cabbage  kinds,  transplanted  lettuces, 
endive,  potatoes,  artichokes,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  celery,  and  some 
others,  particular  regard  is  requisite  that  the  rows  are  at  proper  dis- 
tances for  the  plants  to  have  full  scope  to  grow,  and  would  advise  that 
all  the  tall-growing  sorts,  sown  in  drills,  such  as  peas,  beans,  kidney- 
beans,  &c.,  for  early  crops,  have  their  rows  ranging  north  and  south, 
if  possible,  that  the  sun  may  shine  on  each  side  of  the  rows  more 
effectually,  as  well  as  on  the  ground  between  the  rows ;  both  of  which 
are  of  more  advantage  to  early  crops  than  may  be  generally  imagined; 
for  when  the  rows  range  east  and  west,  one  row  shades  another,  so 
that  when  the  plants  grow  up,  they  cannot  all  receive  an  equal  benefit 
of  the  sun.  • 

The  great  art  in  cropping  a  kitchen  garden,  is  to  make  the  most  of 
every  part  of  the  ground  where  necessary,  by  having  each  quarter 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  123 

well  occupied  with  as  many  crops  annually  as  possible,  as  practised 
by  the  experienced  market  gardeners  and  others,  who  have  occasion 
to  cultivate  the  whole  kitchen  ground  to  every  possible  advantage, 
often  having  two  or  three  different  crops  advancing  in  successive 
order  together  on  the  same  compartment,  especially  where  the  prin- 
cipal crops  are  in  wide  rows,  as  in  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  beans,  &c. 
Other  kinds  are  frequently  inter-cropped,  at  proper  periods,  with 
those  of  peculiar  growth  in  the  respective  sorts ;  not  to  impede  each 
other  nor  the  principal  crops  above  intimated.  Sometimes  slight 
crops  of  quick  growth  are  sown  to  come  off  soon,  or  by  the  time  the 
others  begin  to  advance  considerably;  or  sometimes,  in  the  advanced 
state  of  the  main  crops,  they  are  inter-cropped  with  others  of  a  more 
continuing  and  larger  growth  to  be  coming  forward,  ready,  as  the 
others  are  going  off;  fully  occupying  the  same  spot  in  a  succession 
of  crops  in  some  advanced  growth,  whereby  both  time  and  ground 
are  occasionally  gained,  though,  where  there  is  a  plentiful  scope  of 
kitchen  ground,  especially  in  private  gardens,  any  considerable  inter- 
cropping would  be  unnecessary,  as  generally  each  sort  raised  sepa- 
rately will,  in  some  degree,  be  superior ;  however,  on  the  other  hand, 
as  in  many  places  the  kitchen  ground  is  much  limited,  it  is  incum- 
bent on  the  occupier  or  cultivator  to  inter-crop  occasionally  where  it 
can  be  done  with  a  good  prospect  of  success,  agreeably  to  the  above 
intimations.  With  regard  to  the  different  methods  of  sowing  and 
planting  the  different  crops,  these  shall  be  designated  in  the  course 
of  the  work. 

Destroying  weeds  is  a  most  necessary  culture  in  the  kitchen  gar- 
den, which  must  be  very  particularly  attended  to ;  for  the  success  of 
the  crops  greatly  depends  thereon,  and  without  a  full  determination 
to  keep  them  clean,  it  is  in  vain  to  sow  or  plant  any. 

The  utmost  attention  is  necessary  never  to  suffer  weeds  to  perfect 
their  seeds  in  any  part,  whether  in  cropped  or  vacant  quarters,  or  on 
dung-hills  or  compost  heaps,  as  they  would  lay  the  foundation  of 
several  years'  trouble  to  extirpate  them;  for,  as  in  digging  and  hoe- 
ing the  ground,  some  of  the  seed  would  be  buried  near  the  surface, 
and  others  much  deeper,  at  every  time  of  stirring  the  earth,  a  fresh 
crop  of  weeds  would  arise  from  the  same  stock  of  seeds,  which  veri- 
fies the  saying,  "  One  year's  seeding  makes  seven  years'  weeding." 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THIS  MONTH. 

The  various  preparations  for  early  crops,  noticed  last  month,  in 
page  17,  &c.,  I  would  again  recommend  to  your  particular  attention, 
as  you  ought  to  "  take  time  by  the  forelock"  at  this  season,  and  have 
as  much  as  possible  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  in  order  to  ease  the 
great  press  of  business  which  will  naturally  come  on  next  month. 

CUCUMBERS  AND  MELONS. 

Where  the  raising  of  early  cucumbers  and  melons  was  not  begun 
last  month,  it  may  now  be  commenced  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
this,  with  a  greater  prospect  of  success ;  observing  exactly  the  same 


124  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

method  of  making  the  seed  hot-bed,  sowing  the  seed,  and  the  general 
management  of  the  bed  and  plants,  as  directed  under  the  head  Cucum- 
bers, &c.,  in  the  kitchen  garden  for  January. 

RIDGING  OUT  EARLY  CUCUMBERS  AND  MELONS. 

If  the  cucumber  and  melon  plants  which  were  raised  last  month, 
or  the  beginning  of  this,  have  not  suffered  by  any  of  the  accidents 
that  are  attendant  on  them  at  this  season,  the  former  are  now,  and 
the  latter  will,  in  the  course  of  this  month,  be  arrived  to  a  proper 
growth  for  ridging  out  into  a  larger  hot-bed,  finally  to  remain. 

A  new  bed  or  beds,  for  one  or  more  large  frames,  should  there- 
fore be  prepared  in  due  time  for  the  reception  of  these  plants,  and 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  January,  pages  2 1  and  22  ; 
observing  that  such  must  be  three  feet  and  a  half,  or  four  feet  high 
when  finished  ;  for  a  less  depth  of  dung  will  not  produce  the  neces- 
sary heat  which  these  plants  require  at  this  inclement  season ;  and, 
besides,  if  the  beds  were  made  of  a  more  shallow  depth  their  heat 
wfculd  be  soon  spent,  and  lining  could  not  be  applied  to  them  with  so 
much  advantage :  for  the  latter  reason  particularly,  they  must  be 
made  wholly  above  ground. 

The  bed  being  finished,  put  on  the  frame  or  frame  and  lights, 
which  will  defend  it  from  wet,  and  bring  up  the  heat  the  sooner, 
tilting  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  a  little  that  the  steam  may  pass 
off.  In  a  week  after  the  bed  is  made,  if  it  has  settled  unequally, 
take  off  the  frame  and  make  the  bed  level,  then  immediately  put  it 
on  again  for  good. 

After  this  let  the  state  of  the  bed  be  daily  examined  with  good 
attention ;  and  when  you  find  the  violent  heat  is  over,  lay  in  the 
earth,  but  be  sure  to  let  that  first  pass  away. 

The  earth  for  this  purpose  should  be  rich  and  tolerably  dry ;  for 
that  is  a  material  article  to  be  regarded  at  this  season.  The  earth 
proper  for  cucumbers  may  be  either  any  prepared  compost  of  rich 
loam  and  rotten  dung,  or  of  the  temperature  of  light  rich  kitchen- 
garden  soil ;  but  to  prepare  for  this  you  ought,  about  the  latter  end 
of  September,  or  in  October  (if  the  most  convenient),  to  take  from 
some  quarter  of  the  kitchen-garden,  which  is  naturally  light  and  dry, 
and  well  enriched  by  manure,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  earth,  and  throw 
it  up  in  a  heap  ridge-ways,  in  some  dry  place,  open  to  the  sun  and 
air ;  mixing  therewith  at  the  same  time  some  good  rotten  dung,  break- 
ing and  blending  the  whole  well  together ;  a  due  quantity  of  this  com- 
post-heap should  be  carried  into  some  shed  or  other  sheltered  place, 
open  in  front  to  the  sun  or  free  air,  a  month  or  a  fortnight  at  least 
before  you  want  it,  that  it  may  be  preserved  perfectly  dry  for  earth- 
ing the  bed. 

Then,  when  the  bed  is  in  order,  lay  about  half  a  bushel  or  rather 
more  of  earth  under  the  middle  of  each  light,  rising  each  parcel  of 
earth  in  a  round  hillock  about  ten  inches  high ;  let  the  spaces  be- 
tween the  hills  and  quite  to  the  sides  of  the  frame  be  covered  with 
the  same  sort  of  earth,  only  two  or  three  inches  thick  at  this  time, 
while  the  bed  is  in  strong  heat  for  fear  of  burning,  as  explained 


FEB.],  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  125 

below;  but  which,  when  the  heat  is  become  moderate,  is  by  degrees 
to  be  augmented  till  raised  as  high  as  the  top  of  the  hills,  as  here- 
after directed. 

The  reason  for  laying  the  earth  in  little  hills,  and  not  earthing  the 
bed  fully  at  once,  is  by  way  of  precaution  in  case  of  violent  afterheat, 
in  which  case  it  will  more  readily  pass  off  in  steam  between  the  hills; 
and  likewise,  because  we  may  venture  to  use  the  bed  some  days 
sooner  than  if  it  was  earthed  all  over  at  once  to  the  full  thickness ; 
for  if  the  bed  should  burn  after  the  plants  are  in,  you  can  more 
readily  prevent  the  earth  and  also  the  roots  of  the  plants  from  being 
burnt  thereby,  by  drawing  the  earth  away  from  around  the  bottom 
of  the  hills  if  it  burns,  and  supplying  the  places  with  more  fresh 
mould. 

As  soon  as  the  bed  is  earthed  as  above,  put  on  the  glasses,  and  by 
the  next  day  the  hillocks  of  earth  will  be  warm ;  if  they  are,  level 
the  top  of  each  a  little,  so  that  they  may  be  about  eight  or  nine 
inches  deep;  then  proceed  to  put  in  the  plants,  the  cucumbers,  and 
melons  separately,  in  different  hot-beds,  or  distinct  frames,  &c. 

Previous  to  this  observe,  that  as  having  last  month  directed  the 
plants  to  be  pricked  into  small  pots,  three  in  each  separately,  and  as 
they  are  now  to  be  turned  out  of  these  pots  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  and  planted,  one  pot  of  plants  in  each  of  the  above  hills,  I 
would  intimate,  in  this  final  transplanting,  that  two  of  the  best  cucum- 
ber plants  and  only  one  melon,  would  be  sufficient  to  remain,  cutting 
the  others  away  as  soon  after  planting  as  you  are  able  to  distinguish 
which  are  most  likely  to  do  well;  however,  it  is  advisable,  previously 
to  transplanting,  that,  in  order  to  have  the  whole  ball  of  earth  adhere 
closely  about  the  roots,  to  give  the  pots  some  water  the  day  before  ; 
and  the  method  of  planting  is  this  :  having  some  pots  of  the  strongest 
plants  ready,  place  your  hand  on  the  surface  of  the  pot,  taking  the 
stems  of  the  plants  carefully  between  your  fingers,  then  turn  the 
mouth  of  the  pot  downwards,  and  strike  the  edge  gently  on  the  frame, 
the  plants  with  the  ball  of  earth  to  their  roots  will  come  out  entire ; 
then  making  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  each  hill  of  earth,  place  one  pot 
of  plants  with  the  ball  entire  in  each  hole,  closing  the  earth  well 
around  it,  and  about  an  inch  over  the  top,  bringing  the  earth  close 
around  the  stems  of  the  plants ;  this  done,  shut  down  all  the  lights 
close  for  the  present,  till  the  steam  rises  again  strong,  then  they  must 
be  tilted  a  little  behind,  in  proportion,  to  give  it  vent. 

The  plants  being  ridged  out  finally  into  the  beds  where  they  are  to 
remain  for  fruiting,  you  must  be  careful  to  give  them  fresh  air  every 
day,  by  raising  the  glasses  a  little  for  its  admission,  and  for  the  great 
steam  to  pass  off;  and  it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  lights  every  night 
with  mats,  putting  them  on  about  half  an  hour  before  the  time  of  sun- 
setting,  or  a  little  earlier  or  later  as  the  weather  happens  to  be  either 
mild  or  severe,  and  uncover  them  in  the  morning  as  soon  after  the 
sun  begins  to  shine  on  them,  or  after  sun-rising,  as  the  state  of  the 
weather  will  permit :  in  covering  up,  observe,  that  while  the  bed  is 
very  hot,  and  the  steam  copiously  rising,  never  to  let  the  ends  of  the 
mats  hang  down  over  the  dung  outside  of  the  frame,  which  would 
draw  up  a  hurtful  steam,  and  stifle  the  plants. 


126  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN,  [FEB. 

Air  must  be  admitted  to  them  every  day  when  the  weather  is  any 
way  favorable,  by  raising  the  upper  ends  of  the  glasses  from  about 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  or  two,  or  in  proportion  to  the  sharpness  or 
mildness  of  the  outward  air  and  internal  heat  and  steam  of  the  bed. 

In  giving  the  plants  air,  it  is  a  good  method  at  this  season,  espe- 
cially in  severe  cutting  weather,  to  fasten  a  mat  across  the  ends 
of  the  lights  were  tilted,  to  hang  down  detachedly  over  the  place 
where  the  air  enters  the  frame  ;  the  mat  will  break  the  wind  and 
sharp  air  before  it  reaches  the  plants,  and  yet  there  will  be  a  due 
proportion  admitted  without  exposing  them  directly  to  it,  and  there 
will  also  be  full  liberty  to  let  the  steam  pass  off. 

Likewise,  in  covering  the  glasses  on  nights  with  mats,  if  there  be 
a  strong  heat  and  great  steam  in  the  bed,  let  the  lights  be  raised  a 
little  behind  when  you  cover  up ;  let  them  remain  so  all  night,  and 
use  the  mats  as  above  mentioned,  to  hang  down  low  before  the  place 
where  the  glasses  are  raised ;  but  this  must  be  done  with  caution  in 
very  severe  frost. 

One  great  article  to  be  attended  to  now  is  to  support  a  constant 
temperate  heat  in  the  hot-bed,  so  as  to  keep  the  plants  in  a  regular 
growing  state— about  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  80°  in  the  day.  The 
first  thing  to  be  observed  towards  this  is  that  in  six  or  eight  days 
after  ridging  out  the  plants,  provided  the  heat  of  the  bed  is  become 
moderate,  it  will  be  very  proper  to  give  some  outward  protection  of 
dry,  long  litter,  waste  hay,  fern,  straw,  leaves  of  trees,  &c.,  laying 
it  close  around  the  sides  a  foot  thick,  and  as  high  as  five  or  six 
inches  up  the  sides  of  the  frame ;  but  this  will  be  particularly  ser- 
viceable in  very  wet  weather,  but  more  especially  in  driving  cold 
rains  or  snow,  and  also  if  there  be  cold  piercing  winds,  all  of  which 
would  chill  the  bed,  and,  without  the  above  precaution,  would  some- 
times occasion  such  a  sudden  and  great  decay  of  the  heat  as  to  prove 
the  manifest  destruction  of  the  plants ;  whereas  the  above  lining  will 
defend  the  bed,  and  preserve  a  fine  heat  till  the  dung  begins  naturally 
to  decline  or  decay  of  itself,  which  is  generally  in  about  three  weeks 
or  a  month  after  the  bed  is  made,  when  the  warmth  of  it  must  be 
renewed  by  adding  a  lining  of  fresh  hot  dung  close  to  its  sides  and 
ends. 

But  for  the  first  week  or  ten  days  after  the  plants  are  ridged  out 
into  this  hot-bed,  mind  that  their  roots  have  not  too  much  heat;  for 
it  sometimes  happens  that  a  bed  after  the  mould  and  plants  are  in 
(the  earth  confining  the  heat  and  steam  below  in  the  dung)  will  begin 
afresh  to  heat  so  violently  as  to  be  in  danger  of  burning  the  earth  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hills,  and  without  some  precaution  is  taken  the 
burning  will  soon  reach  the  roots  of  the  plants ;  therefore,  for  the 
first  week  or  ten  days,  let  the  bottom  of  these  hills  be  at  times  exa- 
mined by  drawing  away  a  little  of  the  earth  below;  and,  if  any 
burning  appears,  remove  the  burnt  earth,  replace  it  with  new,  and, 
by  drawing  some  away  quite  around,  let  the  hills  be  kept  as  narrow 
as  they  will  just  stand,  so  as  to  support  the  plants,  and  let  them 
remain  till  the  danger  of  burning  is  over,  when  you  may  replace  it 
again. 

When  the  great  heat  abates,  or  the  roots  of  the  plants  begin  to 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  12t 

appear  through  the  sides  of  the  hills,  then  add  some  fresh,  light,  rich 
earth  all  around  them.  About  three  days  after  you  may  lay  some 
more ;  and  in  two  or  three  days  after  that  you  may  earth  the  bed  all 
over  to  the  full  thickness.  But  before  you  lay  the  fresh  earth  to  the 
sides  of  the  hills,  let  it  be  first  laid  a  few  hours,  or  for  one  night  in 
the  frame,  up  towards  the  sides,  that  it  may  acquire  an  equal  degree 
of  warmth  with  that  in  the  bed ;  then,  being  applied  as  above,  it  will 
not  be  in  danger  of  chilling  the  roots  of  the  plants. 

The  next  particular  care  is  that  of  lining  the  hot-bed  when  the 
heat  declines ;  therefore,  when  the  heat  of  the  bed  begins  to  decrease 
much,  let  a  lining  of  the  best  hot  dung  be  applied  in  due  time  to 
the  back  or  front  of  the  bed,  or  to  both  if  the  heat  is  very  much  de- 
clined. The  dung  for  this  purpose  should  be  prepared  in  the  same 
manner  as  that  for  making  the  bed.  Remember,  that  if  there  was 
a  lining  of  dry  litter  laid  around  the  sides  of  the  bed  to  defend  it 
from  wet,  &c.,  as  before  directed,  this  must  first  be  removed  before 
you  apply  the  lining;  then  line  the  sides  of  the  bed  about  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  wide,  according  as  the  heat  is  less 
or  more  declined,  which  should  be  raised  about  four  or  five  inches 
higher  than  the  dung  of  the  bed,  to  allow  for  settling.  Lay  some 
earth  on  the  top  of  the  lining  to  keep  the  rank  steam  of  the  fresh 
dung  from  coming  up  that  way,  which,  if  it  did,  would  be  apt  to 
enter  the  frame  at  the  place  where  the  lights  are  raised  to  admit  air, 
and  prove  of  bad  consequence  to  the  plants. 

OP  STOPPING  OR  TOPPING  THE  ABOVE  PLANTS. 

The  young  plants,  both  cucumbers  and  melons,  should  be  stopped 
or  topped,  if  not  done  before,  at  the  first  joint,  by  pruning  off  the 
top  of  the  first  runner-bud,  which  is  necessary  to  promote  a  stocky 
growth,  and  cause  them  to  put  forth  lateral  shoots  at  the  first  and 
second  joints  to  form  fruitful  runners,  and  from  these  others  of  the 
same  nature  will  be  produced. 

This  operation  should  be  performed  when  the  plants  have  two 
rough  leaves,  and  when  the  second  is  about  an  inch  broad,  having 
the  first  runner-bud  rising  at  its  base.  The  sooner  this  is  detached 
the  sooner  the  plants  acquire  strength  and  put  out  fruitful  runners. 
It  is  to  be  done  in  the  following  manner : — 

You  will  see  arising,  in  the  centre  of  the  plant,  at  the  bottom  of 
the  second  rough  leaf,  the  end  of  the  first  runner,  like  a  small  bud, 
which  bud  or  runner,  being  the  advancing  top  of  the  plant,  is  now 
to  be  taken  off  close,  and  may  be  done  either  with  the  point  of  a  pen- 
knife or  small  scissors,  or  pinched  off  carefully  with  the  finger  and 
thumb ;  but,  whichever  way  you  take  it  off,  be  careful  not  to  go  so 
close  as  to  wound  the  joint  from  whence  it  proceeds. 

Having  thus  pruned  or  stopped  the  plants  at  the  first  joint,  they 
will  by  that  means  very  quickly  get  strength,  as  will  plainly  appear 
in  a  few  days,  and,  in  about  a  week  or  ten  or  twelve  days  after  being 
thus  treated,  will  each  begin  to  send  forth  two  or  three  runners, 
which  runners  will  probably  show  fruit  at  their  first,  second,  or 
third  joints;  for,  if  the  main  or  first  runner  was  not  to  be  stopped 


128  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

as  above,  it  would  perhaps  run  half  a  yard  or  two  feet  in  length, 
without  putting  out  more  runners  to  fill  the  frame,  or  probably 
without  showing  a  single  fruit — for  it  is  upon  these  lateral  shoots 
or  runners,  produced  after  stopping  the  plants,  that  you  may  expect 
fruit  to  appear  in  any  tolerable  time  in  the  season.  But  let  it  be 
also  observed  that  when  the  said  lateral  shoots  have  three  joints,  and 
that  if  any  of  them  do  not  then  show  fruit  at  either  of  these,  it  will 
be  proper  to  pinch  off  the  top  of  such  shoots  at  the  third  joint,  which 
will  promote  their  putting  forth  a  supply  of  two  or  three  new  shoots, 
some  or  all  of  which  will  most  likely  be  fruitful ;  and  after  this, 
according  as  they  advance  in  growth,  train  the  runners  along  in  regu- 
lar order,  cut  out  casual  very  weakly  vines,  and  thin  others  where 
very  irregularly  crowded.  Thus,  if  the  bed  is  well  managed  and  the 
plants  are  forward,  those  of  the  cucumbers  will  probably  produce 
proper  sized  fruit  at  the  end  of  this  month  or  beginning  or  middle  of 
the  next,  but  the  melons  not  so  soon  by  six  or  eight  weeks.  (See 
next  month.) 

OF  SOWING  CUCUMBER  AND  MELON  SEED. 

As  there  may  be  many  persons  who  did  not  begin  last  month  to 
sow  cucumbers  for  an  early  crop,  it  will  here  be  proper  to  take  notice 
that  the  beginning,  middle,  or  any  time  of  this  month  is  still  a  good 
time  to  begin  that  work,  making  a  hot-bed  for  sowing  the  seed  as 
directed  in  January,  pages  21  and  22. 

Those  which  are  sown  early  in  this  month,  will,  with  good  manage- 
ment, produce  fruit  in  the  end  of  March,  or  beginning  of  April;  and 
those  sown  in  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the  month  will  have  fruit 
in  the  end  of  April,  and  will  bear  plentifully  in  May. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  is  a  very  good  time  to  sow  melons  for 
a  full  crop  in  the  frames. 

The  seed  hot-bed  which  is  to  be  made  now,  either  for  cucumbers 
or  melons,  must  be  of  the  same  dimensions;  and  the  seeds  sown,  and 
plants  managed  as  directed  last  month. 

But  observe,  that  to  be  well  supplied  with  cucumber  or  melon 
plants,  either  to  plant  in  new  beds,  or  to  have  a  reserve  in  case  of 
accidents  happening  to  any  already  planted  out,  it  will  be  very  proper 
to  sow  some  seeds  at  three  different  times  this  month. 

These  may  be  sown  in  such  cucumber  hot-beds  as  are  already  made 
and  in  cultivation,  and  when  fit  to  prick  out,  plant  them  in  small 
pots  as  directed  last  month,  which  may  be  plunged  in  the  back  part 
of  the  same  bed,  where  they  may  be  kept  till  wanted,  either  for  new, 
or  to  supply  any  deficiency  in  the  present  beds. 

FORCING  ASPARAGUS. 

Hot-beds  for  forcing  early  asparagus  may  be  made  any  time  this 
month,  for  which  purpose  you  must  be  provided  with  proper  plants ; 
these  are  previously  raised  in  the  natural  ground  from  seed,  as  here- 
after directed,  which  being  transplanted  from  the  seed-bed  into  others 
duly  prepared  for  their  reception,  and  having  two  or  three  years' 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  129 

growth  there,  they  then  are  of  the  proper  size  and  strength  for 
forcing.  But  observe  that  in  those  parts  of  the  Union  where  the 
ground  is  subject  at  this  season  to  be  bound  up  by  frost,  previous 
precaution  will  be  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  a  supply  of  plants 
when  wanted  for  this  purpose ;  therefore,  before  the  setting  in  of  the 
severe  winter  frost,  cover  a  sufficient  number  in  the  beds  wherein 
they  are  growing,  with  as  much  dry  litter  or  leaves  of  trees,  &c.,  as 
will  effectually  keep  the  ground  from  being  frozen,  so  that  you  can 
remove  it,  and  take  up  the  plants  conveniently  when  wanted. 

Or  you  may,  on  the  approach  of  severe  frosts,  take  up  a  sufficient 
quantity  with  as  little  injury  to  the  roots  as  possible,  which  may  be 
planted  in  sand  or  dry  earth  in  a  warm  cellar,  in  the  same  manner 
as  directed  for  planting  them  in  the  frame,  covering  their  crowns 
about  an  inch,  observing  not  to  crowd  the  plants  for  fear  of  their 
becoming  mouldy ;  and  in  mild  weather  ventilate  the  cellar  as  often 
as  possible,  to  prevent  any  bad  effect  to  the  roots  from  stagnant  air ; 
but  when  it  can  be  done,  it  will  be  much  better  to  take  up  the  plants 
out  of  their  beds  according  as  you  want  them. 

The  necessary  quantity  for  a  three-light  frame  is  from  three  to  four 
hundred  plants,  and  so  in  proportion  for  any  number  of  frames  j  the 
plants  in  such  beds  ought  to  be  set  very  close,  in  order  that  by 
having  as  many  as  possible  in  each  frame,  they  may  produce  a  pro- 
portionable supply  to  recompense  sufficiently  for  the  trouble  and  ex- 
pense of  forcing  them. 

A  bed  for  this  purpose  is  to  be  made  in  like  manner  as  those 
directed  for  cucumbers  in  pages  21  and  22,  but  very  substantial ; 
then  put  on  the  frame,  and  earth  it  all  over  six  or  seven  inches  deep, 
for  the  immediate  reception  of  the  plants. 

The  bed  being  made  and  earthed  as  above,  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  plants  in  readiness,  proceed  to  planting  by  raising  at  one  end  a 
small  ridge  of  earth  about  three  or  four  inches  high,  against  which 
place  a  row  of  plants  close  to  one  another,  drawing  some  earth  to  the 
bottom  of  the  roots,  then  place  others  against  these  in  the  same 
manner,  and  so  continue  until  the  frame  is  full,  all  having  their 
tops  or  crowns  upright  and  of  an  equal  level.  When  the  whole  bed 
is  thus  planted,  cover  the  crowns  of  the  roots  all  over  with  light, 
rich  earth,  about  two  inches  deep,  which  concludes  the  work  for  the 
present. 

You  may  now  put  on  the  lights,  which  are  to  be  kept  open,  raised 
high  behind,  or  slided  down  every  day,  except  in  very  severe  weather, 
but  at  night  let  them  be  closed;  give  all  the  air  possible  so  that  you 
do  not  suffer  the  earth  in  the  bed  to  be  frozen  or  chilled,  by  rain  or 
snow,  till  the  buds  begin  to  appear,  when  you  are  to  give  them 
another  covering  of  three  or  four  inches  of  the  same  kind  of  mould 
as  before,  so  that  the  crowns  may  be  covered  in  the  whole  about  six 
inches  deep. 

But  it  must  be  remarked  that  for  the  first  week  or  fortnight  after 
the  bed  is  made  and  the  asparagus  planted,  that  the  state  of  its 
warmth  should  be  every  day  carefully  examined ;  for  that  purpose 
thrust  two  or  three  sharp  pointed  sticks  down  betwixt  the  roots  into 
the  dung  in  different  parts  of  the  bed ;  when  upon  drawing  up  the 
9 


130  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

sticks  once  or  twice  a  day,  and  feeling  the  lower  ends,  you  can 
readily  judge  of  the  degree  of  heat,  which,  if  found  very  violent, 
threatening  to  burn  the  earth  and  scorch  the  roots  of  the  plants,  it 
must  be  moderated  by  boring  with  a  long,  thick  stake  several  wide 
holes  in  the  dung  on  each  side  of  the  bed,  also  in  the  earth  just 
under  the  roots,  to  admit  the  air,  and  to  let  the  rank  steam  and  burn- 
ing quality  of  the  dung  pass  off  more  freely ;  but  when  the  heat  is 
become  moderate,  the  holes  must  be  closed  again. 

Likewise  observe  when  the  heat  is  on  the  decline,  it  will  be  very 
proper  to  lay  a  quantity  of  dry  long  litter  round  the  sides  of  the  bed, 
which  will  preserve  a  fine  kindly  growing  heat,  and  will  defend  the 
bed  from  being  chilled  by  heavy  rains,  snow,  &c. 

In  the  next  place,  when  you  find  the  heat  of  the  bed  beginning  to 
decline  considerably,  you  should  prepare  to  renew  it  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, which  is  to  be  done  by  applying  a  lining  of  hot  dung  to  the 
sides,  as  for  cucumber  and  melon  beds. 

Fresh  air  must  be  admitted  in  fine  weather  daily,  especially  if  the 
heat  of  the  bed  is  strong  when  the  buds  begin  to  appear  through  this 
last  covering  of  earth ;  for  fresh  air  is  necessary  both  to  give  them 
color  and  prevent  their  drawing  up  too  fast  and  weak  j  therefore  in 
fine  sunny  days,  either  tilt  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  an  inch  or- 
two,  or  shove  them  a  little  down,  as  may  be  convenient ;  but  keep 
them  close  in  cold  or  very  bad  weather,  and  always  at  night. 

Continue  to  cover  the  glasses  every  night,  especially  after  the 
plants  appear,  with  mats  or  straw. 

The  bed,  if  made  and  managed  as  above  directed,  will  begin  to 
produce  asparagus  abundantly  in  four  or  five  weeks,  and  provided  the 
heat  be  kept  up,  will  continue  producing  buds  in  great  plenty  for 
about  three  weeks. 

The  method  of  gathering  the  asparagus  in  hot-beds  is  to  thrust  your 
finger  down  gently  into  the  earth,  and  break  the  buds  off  close  to  the 
roots }  but  the  cutting  them  with  a  knife,  as  practised  in  the  natural 
ground  would,  by  reason  of  the  buds  coming  up  so  very  thick,  de- 
stroy as  many  or  more  than  you  gather. 

When  it  is  intended  to  have  a  constant  supply  of  asparagus  in  the 
winter  and  spring  seasons,  till  that  in  the  natural  ground  comes  iny 
you  should  make  a  new  hot-bed  every  three  weeks  or  a  month. 

A  quantity  of  fresh  plants  must  also  be  procured  for  every  new 
bed ;  for  those  which  have  been  forced  in  a  hot-bed,  are  not  fit  for  any 
use  afterwards,  either  in  the  natural  ground  or  elsewhere. 

When  designed  to  raise  asparagus  plants  for  forcing,  you  should 
sow  some  seed  every  year  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth,  as  directed  in 
March;  observing  when  the  plants  are  one  year  old,  to  transplant 
them  into  an  open  compartment,  in  rows,  nine  inches  asunder,  and 
about  the  same  distance  between  the  rows.  When  they  have  two  or 
three  summers'  growth,  they  are  then  fit  to  take  up  for  forcing ;  but 
if  they  stand  three  years  before  you  take  them  up  they  will  produce 
much  larger  buds. 

It  is  necessary  to  have  three  different  pieces  of  ground  always  em- 
ployed at  the  same  time  with  asparagus  plants  for  the  above  purpose  ; 
that  is,  one  for  the  seed-bed  with  seedling  plants,  which  should  never 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  *  131 

stand  longer  than  one  year  before  transplanted ;  the  other  two  pieces 
to  be  occupied  with  transplanted  plants ;  one  to  be  a  year's  growth 
from  the  time  of  planting  before  the  other,  by  which  method  of  sow- 
ing a  quantity  of  plants  every  spring,  you  will,  after  the  first  three 
years,  obtain  a  fresh  supply  of  proper  plants  every  year  of  eligible 
age  and  growth,  as  above,  for  forcing. 

In  those  States  where  there  is  not  severe  frost  to  be  encountered  at 
this  season,  asparagus  may  be  forced  as  directed  above,  without  the 
assistance  of  a  frame  and  lights;  but  in  lieu  thereof  you  must  arch 
the  bed  over  with  hoops,  and  protect  it  from  heavy  rains  and  cold 
with  bass  mats  or  other  convenient  covering,  laid  over  these  hoops ; 
and  the  earth  on  the  beds  must  be  confined,  either  with  a  shallow 
frame  or  with  straw  bands  or  ropes,  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter, 
fixed  down  neatly  along  the  edge  of  the  bed,  with  sharp  pointed 
wooden  pegs. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Take  care  that  the  mushroom  beds  are  still  well  defended  from 
heavy  rains  and  frost,  both  of  which  would  destroy  the  spawn. 

The  covering  of  straw  should  not  be  less  than  fourteen  or  sixteen 
inches  thick  on  every  part  of  the  bed ;  and  at  this  season  it  would  be 
proper  to  continue  some  large  garden  mats  spread  over  the  straw  cover- 
ing, to  secure  the  bed  more  effectually  from  wet  and  cold ;  and  ob- 
serving, that  if  the  wet  at  any  time  has  penetrated  quite  through  any 
part  of  the  covering,  the  wet  straw  should  be  removed,  and  replaced 
with  some  that  is  clean  and  dry. 

If  these  beds  are  made  under  open  sheds  constructed  for  that  pur- 
pose, it  will  be  a  great  advantage,  particularly  in  protecting  them 
from  too  much  wet,  which  is  very  injurious  to  them,  especially  during 
the  winter  season. 

New  mushroom  beds  may  now  be  made  where  wanted ;  for  the  par- 
ticular method,  see  October. 

KIDNEY  BEANS. 

Where  early  kidney  beans  are  wanted,  you  may,  in  the  beginning, 
or  any  time  this  month,  make  a  hot-bed  for  raising  them ;  let  this  be 
made,  as  directed  for  cucumbers,  to  'the  height  of  three  feet,  and  long 
enough  for  one  or  more  frames,  which,  with  their  glasses,  put  on  im- 
mediately ;  when  the  heat  is  come  up,  level  the  bed  and  cover  the 
dung  seven  or  eight  inches  deep  with  rich  light  earth,  then  draw 
drills  from  the  back  to  the  front  a  foot  asunder,  and  an  inch  deep ; 
drop  the  beans  therein  two  or  three  inches  apart,  and  smooth  over  the 
surface  of  the  bed. 

Or  you  may  sow  the  beans  thick  in  a  small  hot-bed,  or  in  pots 
therein  to  raise  the  plants  about  an  inch  in  growth,  then  transplant 
them  into  a  large  hot-bed  as  above,  to  yield  their  produce. 

The  best  sorts  for  this  purpose  are  the  early  cream-colored  dwarfs, 
early  speckled,  white  and  yellow  dwarfs ;  because  these  kinds  are  of 
an  early  nature,  and  do  not  run  so  strong  or  rampant  as  the  other 
sorts. 


132  .  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

When  the  plants  begin  to  appear,  raise  the  lights  a  little  behind 
every  mild  day,  to  admit  fresh  air  to  strengthen  their  growth  :  give 
also  occasional  gentle  waterings,  continue  the  same  care  in,  their  ad- 
vancing state,  and  support  a  proper  heat  in  the  bed ;  they  will  thus 
afford  an  early  produce  in  April,  &c. 

But  where  there  is  a  hot-house  you  may  raise  early  kidney  or  French 
beans,  generally  with  much  less  trouble  and  more  certain  success  than 
in  hot-beds,  as  above. 

SMALL  SALADING. 

Continue  to  raise  in  hot-beds  a  regular  supply  of  small  salading, 
such  as  cresses,  mustard,  rape,  radishes,  lettuce,  &c.,  as  directed  in 
January,  pages  28  and  29,  which  must  be  sown  every  eight  or  ten 
days,  in  order  to  afford  a  proper  succession ;  for  at  this  season  such 
are  more  acceptable,  and  to  many  persons  more  palatable,  than  at  any 
other  period  of  the  year. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  in  the  middle  States,  and  in 
all  parts  to  the  southward,  you  may  begin  to  sow  lettuce,  and  the 
other  different  kinds  of  small  salading  on  warm  well  sheltered  south 
borders,  especially  if  the  great  winter  frosts  have  passed  away. 

For  this  purpose  dig  the  ground  neatly,  giving  it  an  advantageous 
slope  towards  the  sun,  rake  the  surface  fine,  and  draw  shallow  drills 
from  north  to  south  about  three  or  four  inches  distant ;  sow  the  seeds 
therein,  each  sort  separate,  very  thick,  and  earth  them  over  not  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  If  the  season  proves  favorable,  you 
may  expect  tolerable  success ;  but  the  more  certain  way  would  be  to 
cover  these  beds  with  frames  and  glasses,  which  would  not  only 
forward  them  to  perfection  at  an  earlier  period,  but  also  protect  them 
from  the  various  accidents  incident  to  such  early  crops  in  unfavor- 
able seasons. 

When  these  plants,  both  under  cover  and  in  the  open  ground, 
begin  to  come  up,  they  sometimes,  by  rising  very  thick,  raise  the 
earth  in  a  kind  of  cake  upon  their  tops,  which  consequently  retards 
their  growth ;  they  may  be  assisted  by  whisking  the  surface  lightly 
with  your  hands,  &c.,  to  separate  the  earth,  after  which,  the  plants 
will  rise  regularly. 

When  those  coming  up  in  the  open  ground  happen  to  be  attacked 
with  morning  hoar  frosts,  and  like  to  be  a  sunny  mild  day,  if  before 
the  sun  rises  full  upon  them  you  water  them  with  fresh  pump  or  well 
water  poured  out  of  a  watering-pot,  with  the  head  on,  to  wash  off 
the  frosty  rime,  it  will  prevent  their  turning  black  and  going  off. 


CAULIFLOWER  PLANTS. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  plant  your  autumn  sown  cauliflowers 
in  hot-beds,  to  flower  in  April  and  May ;  garden  pits  or  frames  con- 
structed of  stone  is  what  is  generally  used  and  preferred  now  for 
forcing  instead  of  the  wooden  frames  directed  in  page  18  :  however, 
where  stone  cannot  conveniently  be  had  wood  will  answer  by  being 
regularly  lined  with  fresh  dung,  as  directed  in  page  25.  Stone  pits 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  133 

are  generally  made  larger  than  wood,  say  twenty-four  feet  long  (which, 
will  'require  six  sashes,  each  four  feet  wide  by  five  feet  ten  inches 
long),  six  feet  deep  at  the  back,  and  four  feet  six  inches  in  front ;  to 
be  about  two  feet  ten  inches  below  the  surface ;  the  wall  to  be  from 
one  foot  to  eighteen  inches  thick.  In  these  frames  you  can  raise  any 
kind  of  vegetables  that  are  wanted  early ;  or  small  flowers,  such  as 
roses,  carnations,  stock-gilly,  wall  flowers,  mignonette,  heliotrope, 
nerembergias,  pseonies,  or  any  low  growing  plants  that  you  wish  to 
bloom  at  an  early  season.  By  placing  the  pots  at  the  back  side,  they 
will  not  interfere  with  cauliflowers,  melons,  or  any  other  plants  raised 
in  a  hot-bed,  while  they  are  small.  In  making  the  hot-bed,  observe 
the  directions  in  January,  page  21,  except  that  by  having  the  bed 
below  the  surface  you  can  use  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  old  leaves 
or  tan  in  the  bottom ;  and  then  finish  off  as  directed  for  cucumbers 
and  melons.  Plant  the  cauliflowers  about  two  feet  distant  every  way ; 
and  between  the  cauliflowers  you  may  plant  lettuce  and  sow  radish 
or  turnip  seed ;  white  turnip  is  the  best  for  this  purpose  :  these  will 
be  used  before  the  cauliflowers  bloom.  It  will  be  necessary  to  look 
over  the  cauliflowers  to  see  if  any  show  flowers  before  they  attain 
their  proper  size,  in  which  case,  pull  them  up  and  plant  others  in 
their  place.  Those  early  autumnal  sown  plants  which  you  have  in 
frames,  and  that  you  are  endeavoring  to  protect  with  a  covering  of 
boards  and  mats,  &c.,  without  the  assistance  of  glass,  should  never 
have  powerful  sunshine  admitted  to  them  while  in  a  frozen  state  j 
for  its  sudden  action  upon  these  tender  plants,  whilst  in  that  condi- 
tion, would  prove  their  total  destruction  ;  therefore  admit  it  only  at 
intervals,  when  weak,  until  the  plants  and  ground  around  them  are 
completely  thawed. 

The  cauliflower  plants  which  were  raised  from  seed  sown  last 
month,  should,  as  soon  in  this  as  they  may  arrive  at  a  sufficient  size, 
which  is  about  four  or  five  inches,  be  transplanted  in  to 'a  new  mode- 
rate hot-bed,  which  will  greatly  strengthen  and  forward  their  growth. 

Make  the  bed  two  feet  and  a  half  high  and  put  a  frame  on,  lay  on 
six  inches  deep  of  rich  earth,  when  this  is  warm  prick  the  plants 
therein  two  or  three  inches  apart,  and  give  them  a  little  water  j  as 
soon  as  they  have  taken  root  give  them  plenty  of  air ;  and  in  mild 
warm  days  take  the  glasses  totally  off,  but  let  them  be  carefully 
covered  every  night  and  the  glasses  only  raised  a  little  behind  in  cold 
weather. 

Plants  thus  treated  will  become  strong  and  well  rooted,  bear  trans- 
planting much  better  than  if  left  in  the  seed-bed,  and  produce  larger 
and  better  heads ;  for,  by  transplanting,  the  tap-roots  are  checked, 
and  the  plants  push  a  number  of  lateral  roots,  which  afford  them 
nourishment  and  strength ;  they  become  short-stemmed  and  stout, 
and  consequently  more  fit  for  a  final  and  successful  transplantation 
than  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed-bed. 

Were  these  to  be  transplanted  again,  early  in  March,  into  another 
bed,  it  would  be  an  additional  advantage ;  it  is  by  the  neglect  of  this 
necessary  treatment  that  we  have  so  few  good  flowers,  for  the  plants, 
when  continued  in  the  seed-bed  till  finally  transplanted,  become  long 
and  spindling,  tender  and  unfurnished  with  roots  or  fibres;  when 


134  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

planted  out,  for  want  of  a  sufficiency  of  roots,  they  are  not  able  im- 
mediately to  extract  the  necessary  supply  of  nourishment  from  the 
earth,  consequently  become  stunted,  and  either  button,  or  grow  so 
miserably  as  never  to  produce  a  good  head. 

When  transplanted  and  furnished  as  above,  and  the  proper  season 
arrives  for  planting  them  out  in  the  open  ground,  they  are  to  be 
taken  up  separately  with  a  hollow  trowel  or  transplanter,  preserving 
as  mucH  earth  as  possible  about  the  roots  of  each  plant,  and  deposited 
where  they  are  to  flower;  thus  treated  they  will  scarcely  be  sensible 
of  the  removal,  will  continue  in  a  constant  and  regular  state  of  vege- 
tation, and  if  protected  for  a  few  days  with  garden  pots  or  other  suit- 
able coverings  from  too  powerful  a  sun,  and  regularly  at  night,  for 
ten  or  twelve  days  after  planting,  you  may  reasonably  expect  the 
desired  success. 

As  it  is  from  these  early  sowings  that  the  greatest  success  may  be 
expected  in  the  United  States,  every  care  should  be  taken  to  pro- 
mote their  early  growth  and  strength,  in  order  that  they  may  arrive 
at  due  perfection  before  the  commencement  of  the  severe  summer 
heat,  which  is  found  so  injurious  to  all  late  cauliflowers. 

Continue  to  give  a  due  quantity  of  air  to  your  cauliflower. plants 
at  all  favorable  opportunities ;  for,  as  observed  in  January,  it  is  an 
extremely  essential  article. 


SOWING  CAULIFLOWER  SEED. 

Sow  some  cauliflower  seed  in  a  hot-bed  the  beginning,  middle,  or 
at  any  time  this  month,  but  the  earlier  the  better,  to  succeed  those 
sown  in  January,  or  in  case  none  were  sown  at  that  time ;  for  the 
method  of  doing  which,  see  page  29. 

If  you  have  not  the  convenience  of  glass  lights,  these  plants  may 
be  raised  with  good  success  in  paper  frames,  or,  with  particular 
attention,  you  may  succeed  with  coverings  of  mats,  or  boards  and 
mats. 

PAPER  FRAMES. 

These  frames  are  made  either  like  the  cover  of  a  wagon  or  the  roof 
of  a  house,  and  covered  with  oiled  paper  instead  of  glass.  They  have 
a  frame  of  wood  at  the  base,  to  which  in  the  former  broad  hoops  are 
fastened,  bent  over  circularly.  The  width  of  the  frame  should  be 
near  five  feet,  the  length  nine  or  ten  ;  the  distance  between  the  hoops 
not  more  than  a  foot,  and  there  should  be  several  rows  of  strong  pack 
thread  or  rope  yarn  running  from  hoop  to  hoop  all  over,  distant  from 
each  other  about  eight  inches,  and  other  lines  crossing  and  intersect- 
ing these  between  the  hoops  or  ribs  of  the  frame,  which  arrangements 
of  lines  are  of  essential  service  for  the  more  effectual  support  of  the 
paper  when  pasted  on  the  frame,  and  to  strengthen  it  against  the 
power  of  winds  and  heavy  rains. 

The  other  sort  of  frame  may  be  made  with  slips  of  pine  or  neat 
laths,  fastened  to  a  roof-tree  at  the  top,  and  to  the  base-frame  at 
bottom.  The  panels  or  lights  ought  to  have  hinges  alternately  at 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  135 

each  side,  to  open  outward  for  giving  air  occasionally  on  the  side 
from  the  wind,  or  on  both  sides  if  the  weather  is  mild,  and  also  for 
performing  other  necessary  culture. 

The  paper  for  this  purpose  should  be  of  the  larger,  strong  printing 
or  demi  kind ;  which,  previously  to  pasting  on  the  frame,  should  be 
moderately  damped  with  water,  that  it  may  not  sink  in  hollows  after 
being  fixed ;  as  soon  as  thus  prepared,  proceed  to  paste  it  on,  sheet 
by  sheet,  using  for  this  purpose  the  very  best  kind  of  paste ;  and 
contrive  to  have  whole  ones  along  the  ridge-rail  above,  extending 
lengthways  and  across,  to  join  regularly  with  the  sheets  below; 
pasting  the  whole  in  the  most  regular  and  secure  manner  to  the 
frames,  ribs,  and  pack-thread;  and  if,  at  the  intersections  of  the 
latter,  a  small  square  or  round  bit  of  the  same  paper  is  pasted  on 
the  inside  and  to  the  large  sheets  over  those  parts,  it  will  give  ad- 
ditional strength  against  rain  and  winds. 

After  the  paper  is  thus  pasted  on,  and  perfectly  dry,  then  it  must 
be  oiled  over  with  linseed  oil,  either  raw  or  boiled;  the  latter,  I 
think,  is  rather  apt  to  harden  the  paper  and  cause  it  to  crack,  there- 
fore would  prefer  the  former.  Having,  however,  the  oil  and  a  paint- 
er's soft  brush,  lay  it  on  lightly,  and  brush  the  outside  of  the  paper 
all  over,  equally  in  every  part,  which  done,  place  the  frame  in  some 
dry,  covered  shed,  there  to  remain  till  the  whole  is  thoroughly  dry, 
then  it  may  be  used  when  wanted,  and  will  answer  extremely  well 
for  various  purposes. 

If  the  base-frames  are  well  painted  with  the  following  composition 
they  will  last  a  long  time.  To  every  six  pounds  of  melted  pitch, 
add  half  a  pint  of  linseed  oil,  and  a  pound  of  brick  dust  well  pulver- 
ized, mix  them  all  together  and  use  them  warm.  This  is  the  best 
pigment  for  all  timber  exposed  to  the  weather,  for  no  moisture  can 
penetrate  through  it. 

You  may  also  form  lights  of  the  above  kind  for  your  common  hot- 
bed frames  when  glass  cannot  be  conveniently  had,  which  will  answer 
a  very  good  purpose. 

These  covers  of  oiled  paper  are  used  not  only  for  early  cauliflower 
and  cabbage  plants,  but  also  for  early  salading,  cucumbers,  &c.,  and 
are  excellent  for  covering  cuttings  of  exotic  and  other  plants,  and  for 
various  other  purposes. 

CABBAGE  PLANTS. 

Continue  to  protect  your  autumn-sown  cabbage  plants  from  the 
severity  of  the  weather,  agreeably  to  the  general  precautionary  direc- 
tions given  in  the  month  of  October,  which  see.  But  be  very  par- 
ticular that  such  as  are  in  frames,  and  consequently  under  occasional 
protection,  which  renders  them  still  more  tender  than  those  protected 
under  the  shade  of  bows,  &c.,  and  that  have  got  frozen  either  in  con- 
sequence of  neglect  in  covering,  or  of  the  extreme  severity  of  the 
weather,  are  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  whilst 
shining  strongly,  until  they  are  gradually  thawed,  and  also  the  earth 
in  which  they  stand ;  but  at  intervals,  when  the  rays  are  not  too  pow- 
erful, you  may  admit  them  to  the  plants,  in  order  to  accomplish  th«| 


136  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

end  the  sooner ;  but  it  must  be  done  with  great  precaution.  This 
observation  is  not  only  -applicable  to  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants, 
but  to  all  other  plants  under  similar  circumstances. 

The  cabbage  plants  which  were  sown  last  month,  should  as  soon  in 
this  as  they  have  arrived  to  the  height  of  three  or  four  inches,  or  their 
leaves  to  the  size  of  a  quarter  dollar,  be  transplanted  into  a  new  hot- 
bed, at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  inches,  plant  from  plant,  every 
way ;  in  order  to  promote  their  growth,  give  them  strength,  and  the 
better  to  prepare  them  for  planting  out  in  the  open  ground,  as  soon 
as  the  season  arrives  for  that  purpose. 

Previous  to  transplanting  either  these  or  cauliflower  plants,  see 
that  the  earth  of  the  new  bed  is  arrived  at  a  proper  degree  of  warmth, 
so  that  the  plants  when  planted  therein,  may  receive  no  check,  but 
strike  out  new  roots  and  fibres  immediately.  Let  them  be  constantly 
kept  in  a  moderate  state  of  growth,  admitting  plenty  of  air  to  them 
at  every  favorable  opportunity ;  for  if  neglected  in  this  very  essential 
point,  they  will  grow  weakly  and  slender,  and  never  turn  out  to  good 
advantage ;  therefore,  let  the  air  be  given  as  often  as  it  can  be  done 
with  safety,  but  cover  them  carefully  every  night,  and  even  in  the 
day-time,  in  extremely  severe  weather. 

SOWING    CABBAGE   SEED. 

This  is  a  good  time  to  sow  a  full  crop  of  cabbage  seeds,  such  as 
the  early  Wakefield,  early  York,  early  dwarf  Battersea,  early  sugar- 
loaf,  &c. ;  these  may  be  sown  in  a  hot- bed,  as  directed  for  cauliflowers, 
any  time  this  month,  but  the  earlier  the  better,  especially  if  none 
were  sown  in  January :  these  will  come  to  perfection  at  an  early  and 
very  acceptable  time. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  you  may  sow  these  kinds  on 
a  warm  south  border,  to  be  covered  with  frames  and  glasses,  or  on 
slight  hot-beds  made  in  warm  situations,  and  covered  with  paper 
frames,  or  with  boards  and  mats  occasionally. 

Oiled  paper  covers  will  do  extremely  well  for  this  purpose,  and 
may  be  used  to  much  advantage  where  glass  lights  cannot  be  had. 

Sow  also  some  red  pickling-cabbage,  flat  Dutch,  large  drumhead 
Savoy,  and  other  late  cabbage  seeds  to  succeed  your  early;  summer 
crops ;  these  will  produce  larger  heads  and  earlier,  than  if  sown  much 
later.  Many  people  never  think  of  sowing  these  late  kinds  at  this 
time,  which  is  an  egregious  omission,  and  ought  not  to  be  copied  by 
any  person  who  wishes  to  have  a  regular  succession,  and  in  the  great- 
est perfection,  of  this  invaluable  vegetable. 

The  method  of  sowing  these  seeds  in  hot-beds  being  so  similar  to 
that  of  cauliflowers,  a  repetition  is  unnecessary ;  therefore  see  page 
29.  Always  observe  to  give  the  plants  plenty  of  air,  in  order  to 
harden  and  strengthen  them,  and  to  prevent  their  spindling  up  in 
a  weakly  manner,  more  especially  if  you  do  not  intend  to  transplant 
them  into  another  hot-bed  before  their  being  finally  planted  in  the 
open  ground. 

But  notwithstanding  all  this  precaution,  you  must  not  omit  to  keep 
them  constantly  in  a  growing  state,  and  duly  protected  from  the  in- 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  13f 

clemencies  of  the  weather ;  and  when  the  beds  wherein  they  are  grow- 
ing become  cold  and  destitute  of  that  warmth  so  necessary  for  the 
above  purpose,  you  must  give  them  a  slight  lining  of  fresh  horse-dung, 
to  renew  the  slow  temperate  heat  so  congenial  and  necessary  to  these 
plants  at  this  season. 

SOTTING  CELERY. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  permits,  prepare  a 
small  bed  of  light  rich  earth  in  a  warm  border,  to  sow  some  celery 
seed  therein  for  an  early  crop;  the  best  kinds  to  sow  are  the  solid 
white,  and  red  celery,  both  of  which  are  excellent. 

Break  the  earth  very  fine,  and  either  sow  the  seed  on  the  surface, 
and  rake  it  in  lightly,  or  rake  the  surface  smooth,  sow  the  seed  there- 
on, and  cover  it  with  light  earth,  sifted  over  near  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep;  or  the  ground  being  formed  into  a  three  or  four  feet  wide  bed 
and  the  surface  raked,  then  with  the  back  of  the  rake  trim  the  earth 
evenly  off  the  surface  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  into  the  alley, 
sow  the  seed  on  the  bed,  and  with  a  spade  cast  the  earth  over  it 
evenly  and  rake  the  surface  smooth. 

Though  this  seed  may  not  come  up  for  a  length  of  time,  there  will 
be  no  danger  of  its  perishing  in  the  ground,  and  it  will  be  in  a  state 
to  receive  the  first  advantage  of  the  growing  season :  if  a  frame  and 
lights  or  hand-glasses  can  be  spared  to  put  over  it,  they  will  greatly 
forward  its  growth  ;  when  raised  in  this  way,  though  it  will  not  be 
so  early,  it  will  not  be  so  subject  either  to  start  to  seed  or  to  pipe, 
as  if  sown  and  forced  in  a  hot-bed. 

But  those  who  wish  to  have  celery  as  early  as  possible,  should  sow 
the  seed  on  a  slight  hot-bed,  and  cover  it  with  a  frame  and  lights,  or 
with  hand-glasses,  or  in  default  of  these,  cover  at  night  and  in  bad 
weather  with  mats  placed  on  hoops  stuck  archwise  over  the  beds  to 
support  them,  being  careful  in  either  method,  when  the  plants  are 
come  up,  to  admit  the  free  air  every  mild  day. 

There  should  not  be  many  of  these  early  sown  plants  planted  out 
for  a  continuing  supply,  only  a  few  to  come  in  before  the  general 
crop,  for  they  will  soon  pipe  and  run  to  seed. 

SOWING  RADISH    SEED. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild  and  the 
ground  open,  you  may  dig  a  warm  border  to  sow  therein  some  early- 
frame,  short-top,  white  and  red  turnip-rooted  radish  seeds,  to  draw 
for  salads  in  April  and  early  in  May.  Dig  another  piece  at  the  same 
time  for  salmon-radish,  which  will  succeed  the  former. 

Let  them  generally  be  sown  broad-cast  on  the  surface,  either  in  a 
continued  space,  or  in  four  or  five  feet  wide  beds,  and  rake  them  in 
with  an  even  hand;  or  in  sowing  large  crops  in  one  continued  space, 
if  quite  dry  light  ground,  it  is  eligible,  before  raking  in,  to  tread 
down  the  seed  lightly,  then  rake  it  in  regularly. 

You  may  sow  among  these  crops  of  radishes,  a  sprinkling  of  spin- 


138  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

age  and  lettuce  seed ;  the  spinage  will  come  in  after  the  radish,  and 
the  lettuce  after  the  spinage. 

The  radishes  sown  last  month  must  be  carefully  protected  by 
covering  the  glasses  at  night  and  in  very  severe  weather  with  mats, 
&c.,  and  they  must  have  plenty  of  air  occasionally,  otherwise  they 
will  not  root  well. 

In  order  to  have  radishes  tolerably  early  or  to  succeed  those  sown 
in  January,  let  some  of  the  early  kinds  above  mentioned  be  now 
sowed  on  a  slight  hot-bed,  as  directed  in  page  30,  and  treated  as 
there  advised,  or  you  may  sow  them  on  such  beds  under  cover  of 
oiled  paper  frames  or  of  mats ;  but  radishes  are  not  apt  to  root  well 
under  covering  of  mats,  especially  when  necessity  requires  them  to 
be  kept  on  for  any  considerable  length  of  time,  unless  you  are  ex- 
tremely careful  to  give  them  as  much  air  and  light  at  every  opportu- 
nity as  possible  consistent  with  their  safety. 

SPINAGE. 

Sow  some  prickly-seeded  spinage,  it  being  the  hardiest  kind,  about 
the  latter  end  of  the  month.  Let  some  dry  warm  ground  be  pre- 
pared for  this  purpose,  and  sow  the  seed  thereon  thin  and  regular, 
either  broadcast  and  raked  in  or  in  drills  a  foot  asunder,  or  on  four 
feet  wide  beds — being  careful  that  in  either  case  the  seed  be  not 
covered  more  than  from  an  inch  to  half  an  inch  deep,  according  to 
the  lightness  or  stiffness  of  the  ground. 

The  smooth-seeded  round-leaved  kind  is  the  best  to  sow  during  the 
remainder  of  the  spring  and  early  summer  months,  but  for  this  early 
sowing,  the  prickly-seeded  being  more  hardy,  is  preferable. 

Jlii"'  I  am  well  aware  that  in  far  the  greater  part  of  the  eastern 
States  the  ground  is  generally,  during  the  whole  of  this  month  and 
a  considerable  part  of  March,  so  bound  up  with  frost  as  not  to  be  dug 
or  cultivated;  but  this  not  being  the  case  in  the  middle  States, 
except  in  very  severe  seasons,  and  not  in  all  the  southern  States,  I 
am  induced  to  give  these  directions  for  the  sowing  of  early  crops, 
and  where  the  state  of  the  weather  permits  they  may  be  practised 
to  advantage,  and  where  not  the  business  must  be  deferred  a  little 
longer. 

SOWING  LETTUCE  SEED. 

If  the  weather  be  mild  and  the  ground  in  good  condition,  you  may, 
about  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  sow  some  lettuce  seed  on  a  south 
border,  which  ought  to  be  well  defended  by  a  wall,  hedge,  or  board 
fence,  &c.  The  kinds  most  suitable  to  be  sown  at  this  time  are  the 
early  curled  and  common  cabbage  lettuces,  if  intended  to  be  cut  up 
for  small  salading,  in  which  case  they  are  to  be  sown  very  thick  on 
the  surface,  after  the  ground  has  been  raked  tolerably  well,  and  then 
raked  in ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  beds  or  drills,  according  to  fancy, 
observing  that  these  seeds  require  but  a  very  slight  covering. 

You  may  also  sow  any  other  kinds  of  lettuce,  such  as  the  white 
or  green  cos,  Egyptian  and  spotted  cos,  which  are  excellent  kinds  ; 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  139 

or,  if  for  cabbaging  or  heading,  you  may  sow  the  white  Silicia, 
grand  admiral,  large  Mogul,  brown  Dutch,  or  Malta  cabbage  lettuces, 
all  of  which  form  good  hard  heads.  For  this  purpose  they  must  be 
sown  very  thin,  and  when  arrived  at  a  due  size  be  transplanted  in 
rows  into  the  different  borders,  &c.,  as  directed  in  March,  leaving 
a  sufficient  quantity  to  occupy  the  seed-bed,  which  will  head  earlier 
than  those  that  shall  have  been  transplanted. 

If  these  be  covered  at  night  and  in  very  unfavorable  weather, 
either  with  mats  or  boards,  &c.,  it  will  greatly  forward  their  growth. 

But  in  order  to  have  a  few  in  a  more  advanced  state  for  trans- 
planting, and  also  for  early  small  salading,  you  may  sow  any  of  the 
above  kinds  in  a  hot-bed,  those  for  the  latter  purpose  very  thick,  and 
for  the  former  pretty  thin.  The  cos  lettuces,  not  growing  flat  or  in 
a  spreading  manner,  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  sowing  in  hot-beds  at 
this  season ;  but  either  of  the  kinds  may  be  sown,  and  with  due  care 
and  proper  thinning  be  brought  to  good  and  early  perfection. 

Lettuces  which  have  stood  the  winter  closely  planted  in  frames 
should,  about  the  end  of  this  month,  be  thinned  to  about  nine  inches, 
or,  if  expected  to  grow  very  large,  a  foot  asunder.  The  plants  which 
are  drawn  out  may  be  planted  into  other  frames,  or  into  warm  bor- 
ders where  they  can  be  well  protected  with  mats  or  some  suitable 
covering,  till  they  are  inured  by  degrees  to  bear  the  open  air ;  but  if 
the  weather  is  unfavorable  and  you  have  not  a  sufficiency  of  frames 
to  receive  the  plants,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  this  work  till  next 
month,  being  particular  to  pick  off  all  decayed  leaves,  and  to  stir 
the  earth  a  little  about  the  roots. 

SOWING  CAEROT  SEED. 

When  carrots  are  desired  at  an  early  season,  some  seed  may  be 
sown  in  a  slight  hot-bed  in  the  beginning  or  middle  of  this  month. 
Make  this  bed  two  and  a  half  feet  high,  put  on  the  frame,  and  cover 
the  bed  with  light  dry  earth  six  or  eight  inches  deep ;  sow  the  seed 
thinly  on  the  surface,  and  cover  it  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  with 
the  same  kind  of  earth.  When  the  plants  are  up  give  them  plenty 
of  air,  and  thin  them  as  they  advance  in  growth.  Keep  the  glasses 
well  covered  at  night,  and  in  extremely  severe  weather  and  in  April 
you  may  expect  handsome  roots.  The  early  horn  is  best  for  this 
purpose. 

This  seed,  if  sown  as  above,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month, 
will  succeed  very  well  without  the  assistance  of  glass,  if  the  bed  is 
carefully  covered  at  night,  and  occasionally,  as  the  weather  may 
happen  to  be  severe,  in  the  daytime,  with  garden  mats,  &c.  You 
may  also  about  the  end  of  the  month  sow  a  small  quantity  of  carrot 
seed,  on  a  warm  border  of  light,  dry,  rich  earth,  and,  if  the  season 
proves  favorable  they  will  succeed  tolerably  well,  and  be  fit  for  use 
at  a  very  acceptable  period,  for  the  method  of  doing  which  see 
March. 


140  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [FEE, 


PARSNEPS  AND  BEETS. 

Parsneps  being  very  hardy  plants  and  the  seeds  remaining  in  the 
ground  a  long  time  before  they  vegetate,  may  be  sown  as  early  in 
this  month  as  the  ground  can  be  got  in  a  proper  condition  to  receive 
the  seed,  which  ought  always  to  be  a  principal  consideration,  for 
nothing  can  be  worse  than  to  work  ground  whilst  too  wet.  I  would 
not,  however,  advise  to  sow  more  at  this  time  than  what  may  answer 
for  a  first  early  crop. 

Sow  a  small  quantity  of  beet-seed  on  a  warm  border  in  drills  for 
a  first  crop ;  but  this  ought  not  to  be  done  till  about  the  end  of  the 
month. 

Observe  that  seeds  which  are  sown  in  the  open  ground  at  this 
time,  cannot  have  much  advantage,  as  to  earliness,  over  those  which 
may  be  sown  two  weeks  later ;  therefore  would  advise  never  to  sow 
seeds  till  the  ground  is  in  a  good  dry  state,  and  proper  condition  to 
receive  them. 

SOWING  PEAS. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  prepare  a  dry  and  well  situ- 
ated piece  of  ground  for  an  early  crop  of  peas,  the  gangster's  early, 
early  frame,  and  early  emperor,  are  the  kinds  most  suitable  for  this 
crop,  but  more  particularly  the  first,  though  the  others  are  excellent, 
and  will  immediately  succeed  the  early  frame. 

Sow  each  sort  separate,  and  pretty  thick,  in  rows  or  drills  three 
feet  asunder,  covering  them  not  more  than  about  an  inch  and  a  half; 
or  if  the  ground  be  very  loose  and  light,  two  inches  deep ;  but  if  it 
is  of  a  stiff  nature,  one  inch  will  be  sufficient. 

But  in  order  to  give  the  first  early  crops  a  greater  advantage,  pre- 
pare a  south  border  of  dry  light  earth  for  their  reception,  and  raise 
the  earth  into  narrow  sloping  ridges,  about  a  foot  broad  at  the  base, 
and  nine  inches  high,  and  at  the  distance  of  three  feet  from  each 
other ;  ranging  these  in  a  southwest  direction  from  the  north  side  of 
the  border ;  then  on  the  easterly  sides  of  these  ridges,  about  half 
their  height,  sow  your  drills  of  peas,  giving  them  the  same  depth  of 
covering  as  above  directed.  In  this  situation  they  will  have  all  the 
advantage  of  the  morning  and  mid-day  sun,  lie  dry,  and  will  conse- 
quently advance  in  vegetation  much  more  rapidly  than  if  sown  in  the 
ordinary  way. 

RAISING  PEAS  IN  HOT-BEDS,  ETC. 

Where  a  few  peas  are  particularly  required  in  the  most  early  season, 
they  may  be  obtained  by  sowing  some  of  the  early  dwarf  kinds  in  a 
hot-bed,  to  remain,  or  rather  to  be  transplanted  from  that  into  another; 
either  of  which  methods  should  be  performed  early  in  this  month  if 
neglected  in  last.  These  may  be  sown  in  a  large  hot-bed  in  rows 
from  the  back  to  the  front  of  the  bed,  to  remain :  or  it  would  be 
rather  more  eligible  to  sow  them  thick  on  a  small  hot-bed,  to  be  trans- 
planted into  a  larger  when  about  an  inch  or  two  high :  and  if  you 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  141 

have  any  in  an  advanced  state  you  may  now  transplant  them  as  above, 
to  remain  for  bearing.  But  if  you  have  the  convenience  of  a  hot- 
house or  forcing-house  of  any  kind,  you  may  easily  and  expeditiously 
raise  them  therein,  by  either  sowing  the  seeds  or  planting  the  plants, 
if  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  in  large  pots,  and  depositing  these  in 
convenient  places  in  those  houses. 

N.  B.  A  large  quantity  of  the  fallen  leaves  of  trees  laid  around  all 
your  hot-beds,  as  high  as  the  upper  parts  of  the  frames,  especially 
those  which  contain  tender  plants,  will  afford  them  a  very  necessary 
protection,  by  preventing  the  frost  from  penetrating  through  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  frames,  and  at  the  same  time  they  will  produce  a 
lasting  and  comforting  heat  in  the  beds. 

PLANTING  BEANS. 

By  beans  I  mean  the  Vicia  Faba  of  Linnaeus,  and  not  the  Pha- 
seolus  vulgaris,  or  kidney  beans. 

A  full  crop  of  these  should  be  planted  as  early  in  this  or  the  next 
month  as  it  is  possible  to  get  them  into  the  ground ;  for  it  is  from 
the  early  sown  crops  of  these,  that  any  tolerable  produce  may  be  ex- 
pected in  the  United  States,  especially  in  the  middle  and  southern 
parts. 

For  this  purpose,  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit,  dig  an  open 
quarter  of  good  ground,  observing  that  a  strong  heavy  soil  is  the 
most  suitable,  but  see  that  is  not  too  wet  when  you  work  it;  in  which 
plant  a  full  crop  of  the  early  Mazagan,  early  Lisbon,  long-podded, 
white-blossom,  large  Windsor,  toker,  Sandwich,  and  other  kinds  :  by 
planting  these  different  varieties  at  one  time,  they  will  come  into 
bearing  in  regular  succession,  according  to  their  different  degrees  of 
earliness.  You  need  not  be  under  any  apprehension  of  their  being 
injured  by  the  weather,  as  they  are  of  a  hardy  nature,  and  will  not 
suffer  by  any  frost  which  may  overtake  them,  except  in  very  extra- 
ordinary cases. 

Plant  the  small  early  kinds  in  drills  three  feet  asunder,  and  the 
beans  two  or  three  inches  distant  in  the  rows,  or  they  may  be  planted 
two  rows  in  each  drill,  four  inches  distant  each  way,  and  covered  two 
inches  deep.  \  <*'' 

The  large  kinds,  such  as  the  Windsor,  toker,  Sandwich  and  broad 
Spanish,  should  be  planted  at  the  distance  of  four  feet,  row  from 
row,  and  somewhat  thinner  than  the  small  kinds.  These  may  also 
be  planted  occasionally  by  dibble,  but  drilling  is  the  more  expedi- 
tious and  better  way. 

You  may  continue  planting  these  kinds  once  a  week  till  the  end 
of  March,  but  those  planted  after  that  season  will  not  be  so  pro- 
ductive. 

These  kinds  may  be  forced  in  like  manner  as  peas  if  desired ;  for 
their  further  treatment,  see  following  months. 


142  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [FEB. 


SOWING  PARSLEY  SEED. 


Sow  some  of  the  common  and  curled  parsley  seeds  in  drills,  on 
some  warm  border,  to  produce  an  early  supply ;  the  seed  will  remain 
a  long  time  in  the  ground  before  it  comes  up,  but  there  is  no  danger 
of  its  perishing. 


MUSHROOMS. 


The  same  care  that  was  directed  last  month  in  page  31,  must  be 
continued  with  due  attention  to  your  mushroom  beds ;  being  partic- 
ular to  preserve  them  effectually  from  frost  and  wet,  either  of  which 
would  destroy  the  spawn,  and  render  your  beds  unproductive. 


ARTICHOKES. 


If  the  weather  is  extremely  severe,  and  you  have  not  attended  to 
it  before,  lay  some  dry  long  litter  over  the  rows  of  your  choice  globe 
artichokes,  which  will  tend  greatly  to  their  preservation. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

In  Georgia,  South  Carolina,  and  other  parts  of  the  more  southern 
States,  this  will  be  a  very  principal  month  with  the  inhabitants  for 
making  their  kitchen  gardens ;  for  the  method  of  doing  which  I  can 
only  refer  them  to  the  kitchen  garden  for  March  and  April,  the  work 
recommended  to  be  done  in  these  months  being  quite  applicable  with 
them  at  this  season. 

In  the  more  northerly  of  the  southern  States,  much  work  can  be 
done  in  the  kitchen  garden  this  month ;  but  the  next  will  be  their 
important  period,  to  which  I  refer  them. 


THE   FRUIT    GARDEN. 

PRUNING  WALL  AND   ESPALIER   TREES. 

Peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots,  should,  in  the  middle  States,  be 
pruned  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month ;  the  beginning  of  next 
will  be  a  good  time  in  the  eastern  States.  This  must  be  duly  at- 
tended to  before  the  buds  are  much  swelled,  for  then  many  of  them 
would  be  unavoidably  rubbed  off  in  performing  the  work. 

Examine  these  trees  well,  and  cut  away  all  such  parts  as  are  use- 
less, both  in  old  and  young  wood,  and  leave  a  proper  supply  of  the 
last  year's  shoots  for  next  summer's  bearing ;  all  old  wood  that  has 
advanced  a  considerable  length,  and  produced  no  young  shoots  proper 
for  bearing  this  year,  nor  support  branches  that  do,  are  useless,  and 
should  now  be  cut  out  to  make  room  for  better ;  observing  that  a 


FEB.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  143 

general  successional  supply  of  young  bearing  wood,  of  the  best  well- 
placed  shoots  of  last  summer,  must  now  be  retained  in  all  parts  of 
the  tree  at  moderate  distances,  to  bear  the  fruit  to  be  expected  the 
ensuing  season,  at  the  same  time  cut  away  all  the  ill-placed  and  super- 
fluous shoots  and  very  luxuriant  growths,  together  with  part  of  the 
former  year's  bearers,  &c.,  to  make  room  for  the  successional  bearing 
shoots,  as  observed  in  January. 

As  you  proceed,  let  the  supply  of  reserved  shoots  be  shortened 
each  according  to  its  strength.  Shoots  of  a  vigorous  growth  should 
be  shortened  but  a  little  ;  that  is  you  may  cut  off  about  one -fourth  of 
the  original  length ;  those  of  a  moderate  growth  should  be  shortened 
more  in  proportion  by  cutting  off  about  one-third  ;  for  instance,  a 
shoot  of  eighteen  inches  should  be  shortened  to  twelve  or  thereabouts, 
and  observe  the  same  proportion  according  to  the  different  lengths  of 
the  shoots, 

But  for  the  more  particular  method  of  pruning  these  trees,  see  the 
work  of  the  fruit  garden  in  January,  pages  40,  41. 

PRUNING  OF   APPLES  AND   PEARS,  ETC. 

Prune  apples,  pears,  plums  and  cherries,  against  walls  or  espaliers; 
and,  if  possible,  let  the  whole  of  them  be  finished  this  month. 
'  In  pruning  these  trees,  observe,  as  directed  last  month,  that  as  the 
same  branches  or  bearers  remain  many  years  in  a  proper  fruitful 
state,  continue  them  trained  close  and  straight  to  the  wall  or  espalier, 
not  shortening  their  ends,  but  still  continue  training  each  at  full 
length  as  far  as  the  limited  space  admits,  and  laying  them  in  about 
four,  five,  or  six  inches  asunder. 

In  the  next  pkce  observe,  that  if  the  branches  be  anywhere  much 
crowded,  that  is,  if  the  bearing  or  principal  branches  are  closer  than 
four,  five,  or  six  inches  from  one  another,  some  should  be  pruned  out : 
observing,  in  this  case,  to  take  off  such  as  are  badly  situated,  and  par- 
ticularly such  as  appear  to  be  the  most  unlikely  to  bear,  by  being 
either  worn  out,  or,  at  least,  not  well  furnished  with  fruit-spurs,  as 
mentioned  last  month.  Likewise  observe,  that  when  necessary  to 
make  room  in  any  particular  part  of  the  tree,  to  train  more  regularly 
any  eligible  branches  which  are  evidently  well  adapted  for  bearing ; 
room  must  be  made  for  them  by  cutting  out  such  barren  branches  as 
above  described;  and  in  any  trees  where  the  general  branches  are 
trained  considerably  too  close,  and  crowding  in  a  confused  irregular- 
it}T,  let  some  of  the  most  unserviceable  and  irregular  growths  be  cut 
out  in  a  thinning  order,  in  different  parts  of  such  trees,  to  make  room 
for  training  the  other  more  useful  and  eligible  branches,  in  a  proper 
expansion,  at  regular  distances. 

When  any  old  or  large  branches  are  to  be  taken  out,  let  them  be 
cut  off  close  to  the  places  from  whence  they  arise,  or  to  any  eligible 
lateral  branches  which  they  support,  and  that  you  shall  think  con- 
venient to  leave ;  in  cutting  off  either  old  or  young  branches  never 
leave  any  stumps. 

After  cutting  out  any  large  branches,  let  such  as  remain  near  that 
part  be  unnailed  or  unbound,  in  order  to  be  brought  higher  or  lower, 


144  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

as  you  shall  see  necessary,  to  train  them  all  at  equal  distances ;  or 
when  there  are  several  large  branches  to  be  taken  out  in  different 
parts,  the  whole  tree  should  be  unn ailed  or  unbound,  then  you  can 
more  readily  train  the  general  branches  and  bearers  in  exact  order. 

Next,  let  it  be  observed,  that  where  a  supply  of  wood  is  wanted, 
leave  some  of  the  best  situated  of  last  summer's  shoots,  such  as 
directed  to  be  retained  in  the  summer  pruning,  to  fill  up  the  vacan- 
cies ;  and  generally  leave  a  leading  one  at  the  end  of  each  branch 
where  you  have  room  to  train  them.  But  all  others  of  the  last  year's 
shoots,  not  wanted  for  the  above  purpose,  should  every  one  be  cut  off 
close  to  the  places  from  whence  they  proceed,  leaving  no  spurs  but 
what  are  naturally  produced.  The  proper  fruit-spurs  are  such  as 
were  described  last  month,  being  produced  on  the  sides  and  ends  of 
the  branches,  short,  robust,  and  from  about  half  an  inch  to  an  inch 
or  two  in  length. 

Let  these  fruit- spurs  be  well  attended  to  in  pruning,  carefully 
preserving  all  those  of  a  fresh,  plump,  robust  growth ;  but  those  of 
a  worn-out  or  rugged  unsightly  appearance,  or  that  project  consider- 
ably long  and  irregular  from  the  front  of  the  branches  in  a  foreright 
direction,  should  generally  be  displaced,  in  order  to  preserve  the 
regularity  of  the  trees,  taking  care  to  cut  them  off  close,  by  which 
new  ones  will  be  encouraged  in  places  contiguous. 

Having,  in  the  course  of  pruning  these  trees,  left  most  of  the  gene- 
ral shoots  and  branches  at  their  natural  length,  as  before  advised,  in 
all  places  whefe  there  is  full  scope  to  extend  them,  let  them  be  all 
trained  regularly  in  that  order,  and  nailed  straight  and  close  to  the 
wall,  or  nailed  or  tied  to  the  espalier  about  four,  five,  or  six  inches 
distant.  For  the  management  of  young  trees  of  these  sorts,  see  the 
work  of  the  Fruit  Garden  in  March,  and  for  the  methods  of  pruning 
and  treating  your  standard  fruit-trees  in  this  department,  see  the 
article  Orchard  in  January,  pages  56,  57,  and  58,  and  also  the  same 
head  both  in  this  month  and  March. 


FANCY  TRAINING  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 

It  is  a  favorite  theory  of  some  writers  that  fruitfulness  and  bar- 
renness in  plants  and  trees  are  influenced  by  the  mode  of  training. 
Constraining  fruit-trees  within  limited  bounds,  we  know,  answers  a 
good  purpose.  Hay  ward,  an  English  writer  on  the  subject,  has  ex- 
plained various  modes,  which  we  here  repeat  for  the  amusement  of 
amateurs.  The  following,  in  brief,  is  his  method : — 

If  it  be  desired  to  train  fruit-trees  so  as  to  fill  a  circular  space,  they 
are  best  trained  with  their  branches  reversed ;  they  thus  bear  a  great 
deal  of  fruit  in  a  small  space,  and  are  protected  from  high  winds 
without  stakes.  Obtain  plants  with  one  upright  stem,  of  from  three 
to  four  feet  in  height,  and  at  this  height  let  them  throw  out  from 
four  to  six  branches  three  or  four  feet  long,  like  Fig.  13.  Bring 
down  the  branches  at  the  winter  pruning  and  fix  them  to  a  hoop 
with  willow  or  twine,  thus,  Fig.  14.  The  sap  will  not  now  flow  in 
sufficient  quantity  down  the  branches  to  form  wood  branches  at  their 
ends,  but  the  buds  will  readily  form  for  blossom  buds  and  fruit. 


FEB.] 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


145 


The  wood  shoots  will  be  thrown  out  on  the  upper  sides  of  the  re- 
versed branches,  and  in  winter  may  be  cut  out  or  brought  down  as 
before  for  a  second  tier,  as  in  Fig.  15 ;  and,  on  the  same  principles, 


Fig.  13. 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  15. 


may  be  carried  to  a  greater  height.  Remove  all  collaterals  as  soon 
as  discovered,  and  as  the  reversed  branches  are  worn  out  they  must 
be  cut  away,  and  fresh  ones  brought  down.  Two  tiers  will  be  as 
much  as  will  be  manageable  or  useful. 

The  "  spiral  cylinder"  is  well  adapted  to  small  gardens.  Prune 
and  manage  the  tree  so  that  it  shall  form  four  or  six  branches  of 
nearly  equal  size  near  the  ground,  Fig.  16.  When  these  are  three 
to  five  feet  long,  fix  six  rods  or  stakes  into  the  earth  for  supports,  in 


a  circle  about  the  root,  as  in  Fig.  IT,  the  centre  dot  marking  the 
root  and  the  others  the  rods.  Each  branch  is  then  to  be  brought 
down,  and,  being  fixed  to  the  rod  near  its  base,  the  branch  is  to  be 


Fig.  16. 


Fig.  17. 


Fig.  18. 


carried  round  in  a  spiral  manner,  on  such  an  elevation  as  will  form 
an  inclination  of  fifteen  degrees,  each  being  fixed  in  the  same  man- 
ner ;  thus  all  will  move  in  the  same  direction,  like  so  many  cork- 
screws, as  we  see  in  the  Cereus  tribe  in  windows,  wound  round  up- 
right sticks,  Fig.  18. 

As  trees  trained  in  this  manner  need  never  exceed  the  bounds 
10 


146  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

allotted  them  on  a  border  or  bed,  a  greater  number  may  be  planted, 
and  a  greater  quantity  of  fruit  produced  in  a  given  space,  than  can 
be,  the  case  when  they  are  trained  in  any  other  manner.  Pear  and 
apple-trees  thus  treated  should  always  be  on  dwarf-growing  stocks. 

FIG-TREES. 

Except  in  the  southern  States,  it  will  not  be  advisable  to  attempt 
pruning  your  fig-trees  till  towards  the  end  of  next  month,  or  begin- 
ning of  April,  to  which  I  shall  refer  you  for  particular  remarks  and 
directions. 


PRUNE  AND  PLANT  GOOSEBERRY  AND  CURRANT-TREES. 

Gooseberries  and  currants  should  be  pruned  now,  if  omitted  in  the 
former  months,  both  in  the  standard  bushes  and  those  against  walls, 
fences,  &c. 

In  pruning  the  common  standards,  observe  to  cut  away  all  cross- 
growing  branches,  and  regulate  such  as  advance  in  a  straggling  man- 
ner from  the  rest ;  or  where  the  branches  in  general  stand  so  close 
as  to  interfere  let  them  be  thinned  properly,  so  that  every  branch 
may  stand  clear  of  the  other,  at  a  regular  moderate  distance,  and 
prune  out  the  superabundant  lateral  and  other  unnecessary  shoots  of 
last  summer.  (See  the  Fruit  Garden  of  last  month,  page  43,  and 
also  October.) 

Let  these  shrubs  be  always  trained  with  a  single  stem,  clear  of 
branches,  six  or  eight  inches  to  a  foot  from  the  ground,  as  directed  in 
the  former  month. 

Likewise  to  currants,  &c.,  against  walls,  give  a  necessary  pruning 
and  regulation,  as  directed  in  January,  &c. 

Gooseberry  and  currant-trees  may  be  planted  towards  the  end  of 
this  month,  if  the  weather  permits,  both  in  standards  for  the  general 
plantation,  at  six  to  seven  or  eight  feet  distance,  and  some  against 
walls,  board-fences,  &c.,  for  earlier  fruit,  but  principally  currants,  and 
let  these  for  the  most  part  be  of  the  best  red  and  white  sorts. 

You  may  occasionally  plant  a  few  of  the  best  kinds  of  gooseberries 
to  north  walls,  which  is  the  most  suitable  situation  for  them  in  our 
climates  j  next  to  that  east  or  west  walls ;  but  plant  only  very  few 
to  those  fronting  the  south,  as  in  such  a  situation  the  sun  would  in 
summer  be  much  too  powerful  for  these  shrubs. 

For  the  method  of  propagating  and  raising  them,  see  the  work  of 
the  Nursery  in  March  and  October. 


RASPBERRIES. 

Raspberries  may  be  pruned  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month, 
especially  if  the  weather  be  tolerably  mild,  in  doing  of  which  ob- 
serve to  clear  away  all  the  old  decayed  stems  which  bore  fruit  last 
season,  and  to  leave  four  or  five  of  the  strongest  of  last  year's  shoots 
standing  on  each  root  to  bear  next  summer.  All  above  that  number 
on  every  root  must  be  cut  off  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 


FEB.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  14t 

all  straggling  shoots  between  the  main  plants  must  also  be  taken 
away. 

Each  of  the  shoots  which  are  left  should  be  shortened,  observing 
to  cut  off  about  one-fourth  of  their  original  length. 

The  shoots  of  each  root  when  pruned,  if  considerably  long  and 
straggling,  may  be  tied  two  or  three  together ;  for  by  that  method 
they  support  one  another  so  as  not  to  be  borne  down  in  summer  by 
the  weight  of  heavy  rains  or  violent  winds. 

When  you  have  finished  pruning,  or  as  soon  after  as  possible,  dig 
the  ground  between  the  plants,  observing  as  you  dig  to  clear  away 
all  straggling  growths  in  the  intervals,  leaving  none  but  such  as  be- 
long to  the  shoots  which  are  left  to  bear. 

New  plantations  of  raspberries  may  be  made  about  the  latter  end 
of  this  month,  where  the  severe  winter  frosts  are  over  and  the  ground 
in  proper  condition ;  but  where  this  is  not  the  case,  that  work  must 
be  deferred  till  next  month  or  until  the  soil  is  in  a  fit  state  for  culti- 
vation. For  the  method  of  making  these  plantations,  see  the  Fruit 
Garden  in  March  and  October. 

The  Antwerp  raspberries,  which  had  on  the  approach  of  winter 
been  laid  down  and  covered  with  litter,  &c.,  on  account  of  their  being 
somewhat  more  tender  than  the  common  kinds,  ought  not  to  be  dis- 
turbed till  the  opening  of  good  weather  in  March,  unless  their  buds 
begin  to  swell  too  freely. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Continue  to  force  early  strawberries  as  directed  last  month  in 
pages  46  and  112,  which  see. 

Having  two  or  three  years  old  bearing  plants  in  pots,  as  then 
directed,  plunge  them  into  the  hot-beds,  and  manage  them  as  there 
advised. 

Be  careful  to  admit  plenty  of  air  to  the  plants  at  every  favorable 
opportunity,  by  setting  up  the  glasses  behind  every  mild  day,  and 
at  intervals  give  gentle  waterings  to  the  earth  in  the  pots  around 
the  plants,  not  pouring  it  over  them,  especially  while  they  are  in 
flower. 

When  you  find  the  heat  of  the  beds  to  be  on  the  decline,  renew  it 
by  adding  a  lining  of  fresh  horse-dung  to  the  sides  or  ends,  or  to 
both,  as  necessity  may  require ;  and  be  very  particular  in  covering 
the  glasses  every  night  with  mats  or  other  covering. 

This  is  also  a  very  successful  time  to  place  pots  of  strawberry 
plants  in  the  hot-house,  or  in  any  forcing-house;  they  will  in  these 
places  bear  well,  and  in  early  perfection. 

FORCING  EARLY  FRUIT  IN  FORCING-HOUSES. 

The  beginning  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  you  may  proceed 
to  forcing  fruit-trees  in  hot-walls,  peach-houses,  cherry-houses,  &c., 
by  aid  of  fire  or  other  artificial  heat;  the  proper  sorts  are  peaches, 
nectarines,  apricots,  cherries,  figs,  vines,  plums,  &c.;  having  young 
trees  for  this  purpose  that  are  arrived  to  a  bearing  state,  and  planted 


148  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [FEB. 

a  year  or  two  before  the  borders,  &o.,  of  the  forcing  departments;  or 
you  may  have  some  also  in  large  pots  or  tubs,  to  remove  therein  at 
forcing  time  occasionally.  The  trees  may  be  both  as  wall-trees  and 
espaliers,  training  the  branches  to  a  trellis  erected  for  that  purpose, 
and  some  may  be  in  dwarf  standards;  you  may  also  have  some 
cherries,  both  in  small-headed  standards,  half  standards  and  dwarfs ; 
and  vines  trained  up  under  the  sloping  glasses.  (See  Hot-house,  De- 
cember.} 

Let  moderate  fires  be  made  every  afternoon  and  evening ;  and  if 
there  is  a  pit  within  the  forcing-house,  in  wh,ich  to  have  a  bark  or 
dung  hot-bed,  you  may  make  the  bed  a  week  or  ten  days  before  you 
begin  the  fires ;  and  if  a  bark-bed  is  intended,  fill  the  pit  with  new 
tanner's  bark ;  or  if  a  dung  hot-bed,  make  it  with  fresh,  hot  horse- 
dung;  and  when  it  has  settled  down  six  or  eight  inches,  lay  that 
depth  of  tanner's  bark  at  top.  These  beds  will  support  a  constant 
moderate  warmth  in  which  you  may  plant  pots  of  dwarf-cherries  and 
of  scarlet  and  Alpine  strawberries,  which  will  have  fruit  very  early, 
and  in  great  perfection.  Continue  making  fires  every  evening,  and 
support  them  till  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  to  warm  the  air  of  the  house 
till  morning,  when  the  fire  may  be  renewed  moderately,  but  not  con- 
stantly the  whole  day,  except  in  very  severe  weather,  especially  if 
there  is  the  assistance  of  a  bark  hot-bed;  unless  it  is  required  to  for- 
ward the  trees  as  much  as  possible.  However,  where  there  is  no  in- 
ternal hot-bed  you  must  continue  a  constant,  regular,  moderate  fire  heat. 
With  this  management  the  trees  will  soon  begin  to  advance  in 
blossom-buds,  &c.,  when  you  must  be  careful  to  continue  a  regular 
moderate  heat  in  the  house. 

Admit  fresh  air  to  the  trees  every  mild  day  when  sunny,  especially 
after  they  begin  to  bud  and  shoot,  either  by  sliding  down  some  of 
the  upper  sloping  glasses  two  or  three  inches,  or  drawing  some  of  the 
uprights  in  front  a  little  way  open,  shutting  all  close  towards  the  after- 
noon, or  as  soon  as  the  weather  changes  cold  ;  giving  air  more  fully  as 
the  warm  season  increases,  and  as  the  trees  advance  in  blossom  and 
shooting. 

Give  also  occasional  waterings  both  to  the  borders  and  over  the 
branches  of  the  trees  before  they  blossom ;  but  when  in  flower  and 
until  the  fruit  is  all  fairly  well  set,  desist  from  watering  over  the 
branches,  lest  it  destroy  the  fecundating  pollen  of  the  anthers  des- 
tined for  the  impregnation  of  the  fruit. 

The  fires  may  be  continued  till  towards  May,  being  careful  never 
to  make  them  stronger  than  to  raise  the  internal  heat  to  about  60° 
of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  in  peach  and  cherry-houses,  and  70° 
in  vine-houses;  for  in  vineries,  having  only  principally  vines  in 
forcing,  the  heat  is  generally  continued  stronger,  as  they  bear  it  in  a 
higher  degree,  whereby  to  forward  the  fruit  to  the  earliest  perfection. 
According  as  the  fruit  advances  to  full  growth,  continue  assisting 
them  by  waterings,  and  give  them  free  air  every  warm  sunny  day ; 
and  when  advancing  towards  ripening,  encourage  a  strong  heat  in 
the  middle  of  the  day,  by  admitting  less  or  more  air,  in  proportion 
to  the  power  of  the  sun,  to  forward  their  maturity,  and  promote  a 
rich  flavor. 


FEB.]  THE  ORCHARD.  149 

Thus  the  fruits  will  ripen  earlier  by  two  months  or  more  in  some, 
than  their  natural  time  of  perfection  in  the  open  ground  and  full  air. 

In  the  above  forcing  departments  you  may  also  place  pots  of  cur- 
rants, raspberries,  and  strawberries,  &c. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

The  feelings  of  a  lover  of  improvement  can  scarcely  be  expressed 
on  observing  the  almost  universal  inattention  paid  to  the  greater 
number  of  our  Orchards,  and  that  people  who  go  to  a  considerable 
expense  in  planting  and  establishing  them,  afterwards  leave  them  to 
the  rude  hand  of  nature,  as  if  the  art  and  ingenuity  of  man  availed 
nothing,  or  that  they  merited  no  further  care ;  however,  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  good  example  and  the  consequent  success  of  the  care- 
ful and  industrious,  will  stimulate  others  to  pay  the  necessary  atten- 
tion to  these  departments,  and  thereby  to  serve  themselves  as  well  as 
the  community  at  large. 

At  this  season  you  can  conveniently  perform  the  very  necessary 
and  important  works  of  pruning,  of  scraping  and  rubbing  off  moss 
and  other  parasitic  plants,  and  of  manuring  the  ground  where 
wanted ;  and  as  much  depends  on  these  dressings,  they  should  by 
no  means  be  neglected,  more  especially  as  this  is  a  very  eligible  time 
for  performing  them,  and  one  with  which  other  business  does  not  fre- 
quently interfere. 

For  the  method  of  pruning  these  trees  and  other  necessary  observa- 
tions, I  refer  you  to  the  article  Orchard,  last  month,  page  56,  &c. 

Where  trees  are  much  overrun  with  moss,  it  may  be  removed  as 
directed  in  page  57,  or  a  strong  man  with  a  good  birch  broom  in  a 
wet  day  would  do  great  execution.  The  best  method  of  destroying 
moss  on  young  trees,  is  to  rub  all  the  branches  affected,  in  spring  or 
autumn,  or  in  both  if  necessary,  with  a  hard  scrubbing-brush  and 
soap-suds.  This  will  not  only  remove  the  moss,  but  tend  consider- 
ably to  prevent  its  sudden  return. 

Canker  in  a  great  measure  arises  from  animalcules,  or  small  or  very 
minute  insects  or  worms,  &c.,  of  various  kinds ;  where  this  is  the  case, 
cut  out  the  whole  of  the  cankered  part,  clean  to  the  sound  wood,  wash 
the  part  well  with  the  following  solution,  and  also  all  other  parts  that 
seem  to  be  in  the  least  affected,  then  give  it  a  light  coat  of  the  medi- 
cated tar  prescribed  in  page  58. 

Dissolve  a  drachm  of  corrosive  sublimate  in  a  gill  of  gin  or  other 
spirit,  and  when  thus  dissolved  incorporate  it  with  four  quarts  of  soft 
water.  This  solution  will  be  found  to  be  the  most  effectual  remedy 
ever  applied  to  trees,  both  for  the  destruction  of  worms  of  every 
species,  and  of  the  eggs  of  insects  deposited  in  the  bark.  No  danger 
to  the  trees  is  to  be  apprehended  from  its  poisonous  quality,  which 
in  respect  to  them  is  perfectly  innocent. 

Peach-trees  which  are  annoyed  by  worms,  should,  towards  the  end 
of  this  month,  particularly  near  and  a  little  under  the  surface  of  the 


150  THE  ORCHARD.  [FEB. 

ground,  be  carefully  examined,  and  where  any  are  found  they  must 
be  picked  out  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  with  as  little  injury  to 
the  bark  as  possible,  for  by  lacerating  the  rind  or  bark  in  a  careless 
manner,  which  is  too  frequently  the  case  on  these  occasions,  this 
vehicle,  which  nature  has  provided  for  carrying  up  the  nourishment 
extracted  by  the  roots,  being  destroyed,  the  trees  must  of  course 
perish,  or  be  weakened  in  proportion  as  it  is  injured. 

This  being  done,  wash  all  the  trunks  or  stems  of  the  trees,  as  well 
as  any  other  parts  in  which  you  suspect  these  vermin  or  their  embryo 
eggs  to  be  lodged,  with  the  above  solution,  and  also  the  wounded 
parts,  after  which  apply  with  a  brush  a  slight  dressing  of  the  medi- 
cated tar  to  each  and  every  of  the  wounds  inflicted  by  picking  out 
the  worms.  This  will  preserve  your  trees  in  health  and  fruitful- 
ness  much  longer  than  if  left  to  the  mercy  of  these  destructive  in- 
truders. 

As  to  manure,  it  is  well  known  that  where  hogs  and  poultry  are 
constantly  running  over  the  ground,  the  trees  seldom  fail  of  a  crop, 
which  is  the  best  proof  that  manure  is  necessary.  Any  manure  will 
suit  an  orchard,  but  the  sweepings  of  cow-houses,  hog-pens,  slaughter- 
houses, poultry  and  pigeon-houses,  emptying  of  drains,  &c.,  are  more 
disposed  to  facilitate  the  growth  and  promote  the  health  of  fruit-trees, 
than  stable  manure.  However,  any  kind  of  manure  is  better  than 
none  at  all. 

ON  ROOT-PRUNING. 

When  a  tree  has  stood  so  long  that  the  leading  roots  have  entered 
into  the  under  strata,  they  are  apt  to  draw  a  crude  fluid,  which  the 
organs  of  the  most  delicate  fruit-trees  cannot  convert  into  such 
balsamic  juices  as  to  produce  fine  fruit.  To  prevent  this  evil,  as 
soon  as  a  valuable  tree  begins  to  show  a  sickly  pinkiness  upon  the 
leaves,  or  the  fruit  inclining  to  ripeness  before  it  has  acquired  its  full 
growth,  at  the  same  time  the  bark  becoming  dry,  hard,  and  disposed 
to  crack,  let  the  ground,  as  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  frost  is  out  of 
it,  be  opened  for  three  or  four  feet  round  the  tree,  and  with  a  chisel 
cut  close  to  the  horizontal  roots  every  one  that  you  find  in  the  least 
tending  downward.  Should  there  be  any  mouldy  appearance  or  rot- 
tenness among  the  roots,  cut  such  out  effectually,  and  wash  the  others 
clean  with  a  weak  lye  or  soap  suds.  If  the  ground  be  wet,  place  a 
few  flat  stones  under  the  places  where  you  cut  off  the  descending 
roots,  to  prevent  the  young  roots  which  may  be  produced  again  from 
about  the  cuts  taking  a  perpendicular  direction,  and  to  give  them  a 
lateral  inclination. 

As  the  roots  invariably  collect  the  sap  from  the  extreme  points, 
this  cutting  compels  the  horizontal  ones  to  work  and  exert  themselves, 
and  if  there  be  any  energy  left,  they  will  soon  throw  out  fresh  fibres, 
and  thus  collect  a  more  congenial  sap  for  the  support  of  the  tree  and 
fruit.  At  the  same  time,  in  the  filling  in  of  the  earth,  add  a  quantity 
of  good  rotten  manure,  and  cover  the  ground  thinly  over  with  the 
same,  as  far  as  the  roots  may  be  supposed  to  extend;  wash  the  stem 
and  branches  with  soap-suds,  or  if  any  worms  are  perceivable,  with 


FEB.]  THE  ORCHARD.  151 

the  mercurial  or  corrosive  solution,  and  water  the  ground  round  the 
tree  at  intervals  in  very  dry  weather,  till  you  perceive  it  pushing 
vigorously. 

There  is  not  a  more  powerful  agent  for  producing  the  canker  and 
other  disorders  than  these  descending  roots.  Canker  indeed  may 
arise  from  an  improper  soil,  a  vitiated  sap,  animalculae,  and  the  want 
of  free  circulation  of  the  fluids  :  the  last  is  often  caused  by  inju- 
diciously shortening  too  many  of  the  leading  branches.  The  medi- 
cation before  recommended  will  stop  the  progress  of  the  evil  on  the 
parts  to  which  it  is  applied ;  but  the  canker  may  again  break  out  on 
the  other  parts  of  the  same  tree,  and  that  arises  very  frequently  from 
the  roots  striking  into  a  cold  and  unfriendly  soil. 

The  fluids  being  once  vitiated  by  any  subterraneous  cause,  canker 
is  not  the  only  evil ;  insects  are'  invited  thereby  to  deposit  their  eggs 
in  the  bark,  which  in  due  time  become  crawling  maggots ;  these  feed 
on  the  sap  of  the  trees,  devouring  the  inner  bark  and  rind  as  they 
proceed,  until  the  period  of  their  chrysalis;  which  having  undergone, 
they  take  wing  and  fly  off,  and  in  their  progress  seldom  fail  to  lay 
the  foundation  of  similar  mischief. 

From  this  may  be  inferred  the  necessity  of  making  a  judicious 
choice  of  proper  ground  for  your  fruit-trees,  and  paying  due  atten- 
tion to  their  cultivation  and  health ;  for  it  is  quite  as  presumable,  if 
not  more  so,  that  the  vitiated  juices  of  the  trees  invite  the  worms, 
than  that  they  are  the  original  cause  which  produces  it. 

When  any  of  your  fruit-trees  are  growing  extremely  luxuriant, 
and  continue  to  produce  no  fruit,  though  having  arrived  at  a  proper 
age  for  that  purpose,  they  may  be  forced  into  a  bearing  state  by  open- 
ing the  ground  around  them  and  cutting  through  a  few  of  their 
largest  roots,  but  especially  the  descending  ones;  the  deprivation 
which  will  arise  from  this,  of  their  extraordinary  resources,  which 
was  the  cause  of  their  running  into  such  a  luxuriancy  of  wood,  will 
soon  bring  them  into  a  bearing  state ;  but  be  careful  that  you  smooth 
with  a  chisel  or  other  sharp  instrument,  the  roots  at  the  amputations, 
and  not  have  them  in  a  mangled  state,  which  might  bring  on  diseases 
that  probably  would  destroy  the  trees. 

The  following  extracts,  taken  from  a  communication  made  by  that 
ingenious  citizen,  DOCTOR  JAMES  TILTON,  of  Wilmington,  Delaware, 
and  published  in  the  first  American  edition  of  the  Domestic  Encydo- 
pdedia,  by  Messrs.  Birch  and  Small,  Philadelphia,  are  worthy  of  at- 
tention ;  and  the  laudable  efforts  of  that  gentleman,  both  in  agricul- 
tural and  horticultural  pursuits,  are  highly  meritorious  and  deserving 
of  emulation. 

"  Curculio,  a  genus  of  insects  belonging  to  the  Coleoptera  or  Beetle 
order.  The  species  are  said  to  be  very  numerous.  The  immense 
damage  done  by  an  insect  of  this  tribe  to  the  fruits  of  this  country, 
of  which  there  is  no  similar  account  in  Europe,  has  given  rise  to  a 
conjecture  with  some  naturalists,  that  we  have  a  peculiar  and  very  de- 
structive species  in  America. 

"  The  manner  in  which  this  insect  injures  and  destroys  our  fruits, 
is  by  its  mode  of  propagation.  Early  in  the  spring,  about  the  time 
when  the  fruit-trees  are  in  blossom,  the  Curculiones  ascend  in  swarms 


152  THE  ORCHARD.  [FEB. 

from  the  earth,  crawl  up  the  trees,  and  as  the  several  fruits  advance, 
they  puncture  the  rind  or  skin  with  their  pointed^rostra,  and  deposit 
their  embryos  in  the  wounds  thus  inflicted.  The  maggot  thus  bedded 
in  the  fruit,  preys  upon  its  pulp  and  juices,  until  in  most  instances 
the  fruit  perishes,  falls  to  the  ground,  and  the  insect  escaping  from 
so  unsafe  a  residence,  makes  a  sure  retreat,  into  the  earth ;  where, 
like  other  beetles,  it  remains  in  the  form  of  a  grub  or  worm  during 
the  winter,  ready  to  be  metamorphosed  into  a  bug  or  beetle  as  the 
spring  advances.  Thus  every  tree  furnishes  its  own  enemy;  for 
although  these  bugs  have  manifestly  the  capacity  of  flying,  they  ap- 
pear very  reluctant  in  the  use  of  their  wings  j  and  perhaps  never  em- 
ploy them  but  when  necessity  compels  them  to  migrate.  It  is  a  fact, 
that  two  trees  of  the  same  kind  may  stand  in  the  nearest  possible 
neighborhood,  not  to  touch  each  other,  that  one  shall  have  its  fruit 
destroyed  by  the  curculio,  and  the  other  be  uninjured,  merely  from 
contingent  circumstances  which  prevent  the  insects  from  crawling  up 
the  one,  while  they  are  uninterrupted  from  climbing  the  other. 

"  The  curculio  delights  most  in  the  smooth  skinned  stone  fruits, 
such  as  nectarines,  plums,  apricots,  &c.,  wh^n  they  abound  on  a  farm : 
they  nevertheless  attack  the  rough-skinned  peach,  the  apple,  pear, 
and  quince.  The  instinctive  sagacity  of  these  creatures  directs  them 
especially  to  the  fruits  most  adapted  to  their  purpose.  The  stone 
fruits  more  certainly  perish  by  the  wounds  made  by  these  insects,  so 
as  to  fall  in  due  time  to  the  ground  and  afford  an  opportunity  to  the 
young  maggot  to  hide  itself  in  the  earth.  Although  multitudes  of 
these  fruits  fall,  yet  many  recover  from  the  wounds,  which  heal  up 
with  deeply  indented  scars.  This  probably  disconcerts  the  curculio 
in  its  intended  course  to  the  earth.  Be  this  as  it  may,  certain  it  is, 
that  pears  are  less  liable  to  fall,  and  are  less  injured  by  this  insect 
than  apples.  Nectarines,  plums,  &c.,  in  most  districts  of  our  country 
where  the  curculio  has  gained  an  establishment,  are  utterly  destroyed, 
unless  special  means  are  employed  for  their  preservation.  Cherries 
escape  better  on  account  of  their  rapid  progress -to  maturity  and  their 
abundant  crops  :  the  curculio  can  only  puncture  a  small  part  of  them 
during  the  short  time  they  hang  upon  the  tree.  These  destructive  in- 
sects continue  their  depredations  from  the  first  of  May  until  autumn. 
Our  fruits  collectively  estimated  must  thereby  be  depreciated  more 
than  half  their  value. 

"It  is  supposed  the  curculio  is  not  only  injurious  above  ground, 
but  also  in  its  retreat  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  by  preying  on 
the  roots  of  our  fruit-trees.  We  know  that  beetles  have,  in  some 
instances,  abounded  in  such  a  manner  as  to  endanger  whole  forests. 
Our  fruit-trees  often  die  from  manifest  injuries  done  to  the  roots  by 
insects,  and  by  no  insects  more  probably  than  the  curculio.  In  dis- 
tricts where  this  insect  abounds,  cherry-trees  and  apple-trees,  which 
disconcert  it  most  above,  appear  to  be  the  special  objects  of  its  ven- 
geance below  the  surface  of  the  earth. 

"  These  are  serious  evils  to  combat,  which  every  scientific  inquirer 
is  loudly  called  upon  to  exert  his  talents ;  every  industrious  farmer 
to  double  his  diligence,  and  all  benevolent  characters  to  contribute 
their  mite. 


FEB.]  THE  ORCHARD.  153 

"  Naturalists  have  been  accustomed  to  destroy  viscious  insects  by 
employing  their  natural  enemies  to  devour  them. 

"  We  are  unacquainted  with  any  tribe  of  insects  able  to  destroy 
the  curculio.  All  the  domestic  animals,  however,  if  well  directed, 
contribute  to  this  purpose.  Hogs,  in  a  special  manner,  are  qualified 
for  the  work  of  extermination.  This  voracious  animal,  if  suffered  to 
go  at  large  in  orchards,  and  among  fruit-trees,  devours  all  the  fruit 
that  falls,  and  among  others,  the  curculiones,  in  the  maggot  state, 
which  may  be  contained  in  them.  Being  thus  generally  destroyed 
in  the  embryo  state,  there  will  be  few  or  no  bugs  to  ascend  from  the 
earth  in  the  spring,  to  injure  the  fruit.  Many  experienced  farmers 
have  noted  the  advantage  of  hogs  running  in  their  orchards.  Mr; 
Bordley,  in  his  excellent  Essays  on  Husbandry,  takes  particular 
notice  of  the  great  advantage  of  hogs  to  orchards ;  and  although  he 
attributes  the  benefits  derived  from  the  animals  to  the  excellence  of 
their  manure,  and  their  occasional  rooting  about  the  trees,  his  mis- 
take in  this  trivial  circumstance  does  by  no  means  invalidate  the 
general  remarks  of  this  acute  observer.  The  fact  is,  hogs  render 
fruits  of  all  kinds  fair  and  unblemished,  by  destroying  the  curculio. 

"The  ordinary  fowls  of  a  farm-yard  are  great  devourers  of  beetles. 
Poultry  in  general  are  regarded  as  carnivorous  in  summer,  and  there- 
fore cooped  sometimes  before  they  are  eaten.  Every  body  knows 
with  what  avidity  ducks  seize  on  the  tumble-bug  (Scarabasus  carni- 
fex),  and  it  is  probable  the  curculio  is  regarded  by  all  the  fowls  as  an 
equally  delicious  morsel.  Therefore  it  is,  that  the  smooth  stone 
fruits,  particularly,  succeed  much  better  in  lanes  and  yards,  where 
the  poultry  run  without  restraint,  than  in  gardens  and  other  inclos- 
ures,  where  the  fowls  are  excluded. 

"All  the  terebinthinate  substances,  with  camphor  and  some  others, 
are  said  to  be  very  offensive  to  insects  generally.  Upon  this  prin- 
ciple, General  T.  ROBINSON,  of  Naaman's  Creek,  suspends  annually 
little  bits  of  board,  about  the  size  of  a  case-knife,  dipped  in  tar,  on 
each  of  his  plum-trees — from  three  to  five  of  these  strips  are  deemed 
enough,  according  to  the  size  of  the  tree^  The  General  commences 
his  operations  about  the  time  or  soon  after  the  trees  are  in  full  bloom, 
and  renews  the  application  of  the  tar  frequently  while  the  fruit  hangs 
on  the  tree.  To  this  expedient,  he  attributes  his  never  failing  suc- 
cess. Other  gentlemen  allege,  that  common  turpentine  would  be 
still  better ;  being  equally  pungent  and  more  permanent  in  its  effects. 
Some  have  sown  offensive  articles,  such  as  buckwheat,  celery,  &c., 
at  the  root  of  the  tree,  and  have  thought  that  great  advantages  fol- 
lowed. 

"  Ablaqueation,  or  digging  round  the  trees,  and  making  bare  their 
roots  in  winter,  is  an  old  expedient  of  gardeners  for  killing  insects, 
and  may  answer  well  enough  for  a  solitary  tree  a  year  or  two ;  but 
the  curculio  will  soon  recover  from  a  disturbance  of  this  sort,  and 
stock  the  tree  again. 

"  In  large  orchards,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  stock  of  hogs 
is  sufficient  to  eat  up  all  the  early  fruit  which  fall  from  May  until 
August.  This  precaution  will  be  more  especially  necessary  in  large 
peach  orchards ;  for,  otherwise,  when  the  hogs  become  cloyed  with 


154  THE  VINEYARD.  [FEB. 

the  pulp  of  the  peach,  they  will  let  it  fall  out  of  their  mouths,  and 
content  themselves  with  the  kernel,  which  they  like  better ;  and  thus 
the  curculio  escaping  from  their  jaws,  may  hide  under  ground  until 
next  spring. 

"A  young  orchard  should  not  be  planted  in  the  place  of,  or  adja- 
cent to  an  old  one,  that  it  may  not  be  immediately  infested  with  the 
curculio. 

"It  is  also  apparent  from  what  has  been  said,  that  great  advantages 
might  result  from  an  association  or  combination  of  whole  neighbor- 
hoods against  this  common  enemy.  Although  an  intelligent  farmer 
may  accomplish  much,  by  due  attention,  within  his  own  territory, 
$he  total  extermination  of  the  curculio  can  hardly  be  expected  but 
by  the  concurrent  efforts  of  whole  districts." 

For  further  particulars  respecting  fruit-trees,  see  the  article  Orchard 
in  March. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

To  the  preparatory  and  other  necessary  work,  recommended  in 
January,  to  be  done  in  the  vineyard,  page  60,  I  again  call  your  par- 
ticular attention ;  if  it  is  put  off  till  March,  you  will  then  find  the 
consequent  embarrassment  of  such  neglect ;  therefore  let  every  pre- 
paration be  made  in  this,  as  well  as  the  last  month,  that  the  season 
will  admit  of. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time  to  cart  manure 
into  the  vineyard;  laying  it  down  in  the  most  elevated  places  possible 
for  the  ease  of  wheeling  it  on  barrows  down  among  the  rows  of  vines; 
this  ought  to  be  perfectly  rotted,  and  of  a  quality  suited  to  the  nature 
of  the  soil ;  well  rotted  cow-dung  is  the  best  manure  for  ground  of  a 
very  hot  nature,  but,  if  very  cold  or  stiff,  which  ought  to  be  as  much 
avoided  as  possible  in  the  planting  of  a  vineyard,  it  may  be  improved 
by  well  rotted  horse-dung  or  street  dirt ;  when  these  cannot  be  had, 
any  kind  of  well  incorporated  rich  compost  or  other  manure  may  be 
used. 

If  the  vineyard  be  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  and  your  vines  are 
not  more  than  one,  two,  or  three  years  old,  scatter  a  good  shovelful 
or  two  of  this  manure  principally  on  the  upper  side  of  each  plant, 
observing  that  none  of  it  reaches  within  six  inches  of  the  stem ;  for 
if  placed  close  thereto,  slugs,  worms,  and  the  embryos  of  various  in- 
sects, so  frequently  found  in  dung  and  other  manure,  would  take 
shelter  about  the  stock,  penetrate  down  along  its  roots,  and  might 
materially  injure  it  at  a  future  period.  But  when  these  are  exposed, 
without  the  advantage  of  this  protection,  to  the  severe  frosts  of  the 
season,  the  greater  number  of  them  will  be  destroyed  thereby. 

The  manure  so  placed,  its  nutritive  parts  will  be  washed  down  by 
rains,  and  the  whole,  by  the  necessary  culture,  will  ultimately  be 
brought  to  the  roots  of  the  plants.  When  the  vineyard  happens  to 


FEB.]  THE  VINEYARD.  155 

be  on  level  ground  scatter  the  manure  as  above,  equally  around  the 
plants. 

If  your  vines  are  four  years  old  or  more,  let  it  be  cast  all  over  the 
ground,  as  by  this  time  the  roots  will  be  extended  to  a  considerable 
distance  in  every  direction  and  prepared  to  receive  nourishment  at 
all  points. 

PRUNING  OP  VINES  IN  THE  VINEYARD. 

In  the  middle  States,  the  last  week  of  this  month  will  be  an  excel- 
lent time  to  prune  vines,  unless  it  should  happen  to  be  extremely 
severe ;  in  which  case  it  will  be  better  to  defer  the  pruning  for  a  few 
days  longer,  but  on  no  account  later  than  the  first  week  in  March, 
which  latter  period  will  be  a  good  time  to  commence  that  business  in 
the  eastern  States,  allowing  there  the  same  latitude  in  similar  cases; 
but  the  more  to  the  southward  the  earlier  ought  this  to  be  done ;  for 
if  deferred  till  the  sap  begins  to  ascend,  serious  evils  will  ensue  to 
the  plants,  in  consequence  of  bleeding  too  copiously  from  the  wounds. 
Let  it  be  observed  that  the  sap  begins  to  rise  six  weeks  or  more 
before  the  buds  expand  into  leaves. 

Such  plants  as  are  but  one  year  old  from  the  cuttings  must  be  cut 
down  to  one  or  two  good  buds  each,  according  to  their  strength, 
always  cutting  about  an  inch  above  the  bud  in  a  sloping  manner,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  thereto,  observing  that  the  lowermost  bud,  next 
the  old  wood,  is  never  reckoned  among  the  good  ones. 

Such  of  these  young  plants  as  have  made  more  than  one  shoot  last 
season  must  be  deprived  of  all,  by  cutting  them  off  as  close  as  possible 
to  the  old  wood,  except  the  strongest  and  best  placed  j  which  prune 
as  above  directed,  and  cut  off  such  part  of  the  old  wood,  close  to 
this  shoot,  as  appears  above  it,  in  order  that  the  bark  may  grow  over 
it  and  the  stem  become  whole  and  sound. 

Your  two  year  old  plants  must  be  similarly  treated,  with  this 
difference,  that  you  may  leave  two  good  buds  to  each  in  order  to  form 
as  many  strong  shoots  for  the  next  season. 

The  three  year  old  plants  must  be  headed  down  to  two  good  buds, 
leaving  not  more  than  two  shoots  to  each  plant,  which  will  produce 
four  for  the  ensuing  season;  and  these,  if  the  plants  be  in  good 
health,  will  yield  fruit  very  handsomely  that  year. 

The  fourth  year  of  a  plant  leave  it  three  of  the  best  shoots,  head- 
ing them  down  to  good  buds  each ;  and  observe  to  cut  off  the  extra 
branches  dose  to  where  they  were  produced,  and  in  like  manner  any 
decayed  wood,  as  well  as  the  spurs  or  stumps  occasioned  by  last  year's 
pruning  ;  by  which  treatment  all  the  parts  will  get  covered  with  bark, 
and  the  stock  to  be  continued  in  health  and  vigor. 

According  as  your  vines  increase  in  age  and  strength,  you  may 
leave  from  four  to  eight  shoots "  on  a  plant,  in  proportion  to  its 
strength,  each  headed  down  from  two  to  four  or  five  good  buds, 
always  leaving  the  greatest  number  of  buds  on  the  most  vigorous 
shoots. 

When  a  vine  is  extremely  vigorous  and  well  furnished,  you  may 
head  one  or  two  of  its  best  shoots  at  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet 


156  THE  VINEYARD.  [FEB. 

which  will  bear  an  abundance  of  fruit ;  but  the  others  must  be  headed 
down  to  two  or  three  buds  each,  in  order  that  they  may  produce  good 
wood  for  the  ensuing  year's  bearing  and  not  too  much  fruit ;  for  those 
which  you  headed  so  high  must  be  effectually  cut  out  close  to  where 
they  were  produced  in  the  next  pruning. 

Having  finished  your  pruning,  see  that  each  plant  has  a  good  firm 
stake  to  support  the  young  shoots  when  produced  and  advancing  in 
growth,  and  if  it  be  vigorous  and  of  many  shoots,  a  second,  or  even  a 
third,  would  be  more  eligible. 

Some  inconsiderate  persons  may  think  that  eight  are  too  few  for 
a  full  grown  vine ;  but  if  they  consider  that  the  eight  shoots  so 
pruned  may  produce,  on  an  average,  twenty-four,  and  each  of  these 
bear  three  bunches  of  grapes,  making  in  all  seventy-two,  they  will 
probably  view  the  matter  in  a  different  point,  especially  when  they 
consider  that  the  ground,  occupied  by  this  plant,  is  no  more  than 
about  six  feet  square.  However  fond  people  may  be  to  see  their 
vines  bear  great  quantities  of  fruit,  the  over-bearing  of  them,  espe- 
cially while  young,  and  indeed  at  any  period,  is  allowed  on  all  hands 
to  injure  them  materially. 

You  are  particularly  to  observe  that  the  young  shoots  of  last  sum- 
mer's growth  are  the  only  bearing  wood ;  that  is,  they  produce  new 
shoots  which  bear  fruit  the  same  season ;  therefore  if  you  expect  a 
regular  supply  of  grapes,  you  must  manage  your  plants  so  as  to  have 
an  annual  succession  of  new  wood,  which  you  cannot  expect  if  the 
vines  are  suffered  to  overbear. 

The  above  being  the  method  of  managing  vines  in  vineyards,  the 
heads  being  formed  near  the  ground,  which  is  the  present  practice 
in  most  of  the  vine  countries,  I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  some  di- 
rections for  the  pruning  of  such  as  are  trained  against  walls,  trellises 
or  espaliers. 

PRUNING  OF  VINES  AGAINST  WALLS,  TRELLISES,  AND  ESPALIERS. 

In  order  to  have  well  formed  espaliers  and  wall- vines,  &c.,  you 
must  train  the  two  first  good  shoots,  produced  by  the  plant,  horizon- 
tally, one  to  each  side,  within  a  foot  or  a  little  better  of  the  ground, 
and  continue  them  in  that  direction,  from  year  to  year,  to  whatever 
extent  you  may  think  desirable. 

The  first  year  these  must  be  deprived  only  of  the  decayed  wood 
on  the  extremities,  and  of  any  secondary  shoots  proceeding  from  the 
axillas  of  the  leaves,  unless  they  have  run  to  the  desired  extent :  the 
second  year  they  will  produce  shoots  from  the  joints,  which  are  to 
be  trained  either  upright,  serpentine  form,  or  fan-fashion,  according 
to  fancy,  at  the  distance  of  about  twelve  inches  from  each  other  ;  the 
third  year  head  each  of  these  down  to  one  good  bud,  and  train 
them  up  as  before  directed ;  the  fourth,  and  every  succeeding  year, 
make  choice  of  the  strongest  shoots,  say  every  third  one,  and  head 
them  down  to  from  ten  to  twenty  buds  each,  more  or  less,  according 
to  the  strength  of  the  mother  plant,  goodness  of  the  ground,  and 
roundness  of  the  wood,  but  never  leave  wood  that  is  not  round,  for 
such  seldom  bears  fruit.  The  other  shoots  are  to  be  headed  down 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY.  157 

to  one  or  two  good  buds  each,  which  are  to  produce  young  wood  for 
the  next  year's  bearing,  as  those  left  to  bear  this  season  must  be  cut 
down  next,  in  order  to  produce  a  succession  of  young  wood ;  and  so 
continue  in  their  management  from  year  to  year. 

When  you  meet  with  old  vines  which  have  been  neglected,  and 
having  a  great  quantity  of  naked  wood,  as  is  generally  the  case,  cut 
them  down  near  to  the  ground,  and  they  will  not  fail  to  produce  you 
plenty  of  young  wood,  which  you  can  train  to  your  liking,  but  you 
will  have  no  fruit  for  that  year.  Or  you  may  cut  out  every  other 
branch,  leaving  the  old  ones  to  produce  fruit  that  season ;  but  these 
must  be  cut  down  the  next  year  in  order  to  produce  young  wood, 
and  a  well  furnished  tree. 

When  arbors  are  to  be  formed  of  grape-vines,  the  shade  being  as 
much  an  object  as  the  fruit,  you  are  to  train  them  so  as  to  cover  the 
place  handsomely,  and  at  the  same  time  to  produce  as  much  and  as 
good  fruit  as  possible,  by  not  permitting  the  leading  branches  or 
shoots  to  crowd  together,  but  to  spread  evenly  and  thin  over  the 
whole  place:  this  must  be  done  by  judicious  pruning  and  careful 
training,  always  bearing  in  mind  the  preceding  general  directions. 

For  the  methods  of  propagating  and  planting  grape-vines,  and  the 
various  kinds  thereof,  see  the  Vineyard  in  March. 


SOUTHERN  STATES.       r  ^ 

This  will  be  a  principal  time  for  propagating  vines  by  cuttings, 
layers,  &c.,  and  planting  vineyards  in  most  of  the  southern  States  : 
for  the  methods  of  doing  which,  see  the  Vineyard  in  March. 


THE   NURSERY. 

The  various  instructions  given  in  the  course  of  this  month, 
for  the  nursery,  as  far  as  they  relate  to  work  which  is  to  be  done  in 
the  open  ground,  are  on  the  presumption  that  the  severe  winter  frosts, 
have,  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  disappeared,  and  that  the  ground 
at  that  time  is  in  a  fit  state  for  cultivation ;  at  least,  sufficiently  so 
for  the  reception  of  plants  of  a  very  hardy  nature,  and  such  as,  if 
planted,  could  receive  no  injury  whatever  from  any  subsequent  frost 
or  severity  of  weather,  and  that  will  succeed  better  by  taking  the 
earliest  possible  advantage  of  the  season  :  moreover,  it  is  the  better 
way  to  have  as  much  of  your  business  done  at  as  early  a  period  as 
possible,  the  better  to  enable  you  to  meet  the  great  pressure,  which, 
with  respect  to  planting,  sowing,  grafting,  &c.  &c.,  must  be  attended 
to  in  March. 

But  when  the  weather  in  the  latter  end  of  this  month  is  severe,  or 
the  ground  bound  up  by  frost,  there  is  no  alternative  but  to  defer  the 
business  till  the  arrival  of  a  more  favorable  period. 


158  THE  NURSERY.  [FEB. 


PROPAGATING  BY   CUTTINGS,  ETC. 

Plant  cuttings  of  gooseberries  and  currants  according  to  the  rules 
laid  down  in  next  month  and  in  October ;  these  will  form  tolerable 
branchy  heads  by  the  end  of  summer,  and  will  produce  fruit  in  a  year 
or  two  after. 

Be  careful  to  train  these  trees  always  with  a  single  stem,  six  or 
eight  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  high  before  you  form  the  head. 

Plant  also  cuttings  of  honeysuckles,  and  other  Tiardy  flowering 
shrubs  and  trees;  as  many  different  sorts  may  be  propagated  by  that 
method. 

The  cuttings  must  be  shoots  of  the  former  year's  growth  :  choose 
such  as  have  strength,  cutting  them  from  the  respective  trees  and 
shrubs  in  proper  lengths ;  or  long  shoots  may  be  divided  into  two  or 
more  cuttings,  which  should  not  be  shorter  than  eight  inches,  nor 
much  longer  than  twelve.  Plant  them  in  rows  two  feet  asunder,  at 
six  or  eight  inches  distance  in  the  row,  putting  each  cutting  two-thirds 
of  its  length  into  the  earth. 

Most  kinds  which  are  thus  planted  now,  will  be  well  rooted  by 
next  October. 

PROPAGATING   BY    SUCKERS. 

Many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubby  plants  furnish  abundance  of 
suckers  from  the  roots  for  propagation,  particularly  robinias,  roses, 
lilacs,  syringas,  and  many  other  hardy  kinds :  the  suckers  may  now 
be  separated  from  the  parent  plants,  each  with  some  roots,  and  planted 
either  in  nursery-rows  for  a  year  or  two,  or  the  largest,  at  once,  where 
they  are  to  remain. 

PROPAGATING   BY  LAYERS. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  may  make  layers  of  all  such 
shrubs  and  trees  as  are  increased  by  that  method,  though  the  best 
time  to  do  this  is  between  the  first  of  October  and  end  of  November, 
but  where  it  was  omitted  at  that  period  it  may  now  be  done,  and  most 
kinds  will  still  succeed. 

In  making  layers  of  any  kinds  of  trees  or  shrubs,  observe  to  dig 
round  the  plant  that  is  to  be  layed,  and  as  you  go  on,  bring  down  the 
shoots  or  branches  regularly,  and  lay  them  along  in  the  earth,  with 
their  tops  above  ground,  fastening  them  securely  there  with  hooked 
pegs,  and  then  let  all  the  young  shoots  on  each  branch  be  neatly 
layed,  and  cover  them  five  or  six  inches  deep  with  earth,  leaving  the 
top  of  each  three  or  four  to  five  or  six  inches  out  of  the  ground. 

It  may  be  of  advantage  in  laying  some  of  the  more  hard-wooded 
kinds,  to  gash  or  sKt  the  layers  an  inch  or  better  by  an  upward  cut 
on  the  under  side,  as  intimated  in  the  Nursery,  page  70. 

Most  kinds  of  layers  which  are  now  layed,  will  be  tolerably  well 
rooted  and  fit  to  be  transplanted  by  next  autumn,  some  not  till  the 
second  year ;  but  for  general  instructions,  see  the  Nursery  in  October. 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY.  159 


TRANSPLANTING  LAYERS. 

Take  off  the  layers  of  such  hardy  shrubs  and  trees  as  were  layed 
down  last  year,  and  which  still  remain  on  the  stools. 

Let  these  layers,  as  soon  as  they  are  taken  off,  be  trimmed  and 
planted  in  rows  in  an  open  situation,  two  feet  or  more  asunder,  ac- 
cording to  the  size  of  the  plants,  and  the  plants  about  twelve  or  fif- 
teen inches  distant  in  rows. 


PRUNING,  ETC. 

Should  the  weather  permit,  you  ought  towards  the  latter  end  of 
the  month  to  dig  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  your  nursery  trees 
and  shrubs,  first  giving  them  such  necessary  pruning  as  may  be 
wanted ;  but  if  the  ground  is  then  bound  up  with  frost,  you  may  per- 
form the  latter  and  defer  the  former  work,  till  the  frost  is  away,  which 
then  must  be  done  without  delay,  especially  where  the  ground  is  tole- 
rably dry. 

Trim  up  the  stems  of  such  young,  hardy  fruit  and  forest-trees  as 
require  it,  especially  the  deciduous  kinds,  and  also  prune  off  all  dis- 
orderly rambling  shoots,  so  as  to  bring  them  into  a  neat  and  hand- 
some form. 

Prune  also  the  hardy  flowering  shrubs  in  nursery  rows,  whereby 
to  regulate  any  disorderly  growths,  and  to  give  them  a  becoming  ap- 
pearance. 

In  doing  this  work,  it  would  generally  be  proper  to  prune  or  train 
the  young  plants  mostly  to  short,  single  stems  below;  and  where  the 
heads  of  any  shrubs  are  very  irregular,  or  run  out  in  rambling  shoots, 
let  them  be  reduced  to  some  order  and  form,  by  cutting  out  or  short- 
ening such  as  may  require  any  regulation,  whereby  to  form  a  some- 
what orderly  shape  in  the  general  head.  Likewise  suckers  arising  from 
the  roots  should  generally  be  cleared  off,  and,  if  carefully  detached 
with  some  roots  to  each,  the  best  of  them,  if  wanted,  may  be  planted 
in  nursery  rows  at  proper  distances ;  they  will  make  good  plants  in 
two  or  three  years'  time,  and  the  mother  plants  being  cleared  there- 
from, will  be  preserved  in  a  more  regular  proper  growth. 

After  the  above  occasional  pruning,  let  the  ground  be  dug  between 
the  rows  of  the  continuing  shrubs,  if  not  done  before;  digging  it  one 
spade  deep  in  a  neat,  regular  manner,  to  remain  in  good  cultivated 
order  all  the  spring  and  ensuing  summer. 

SOWING  STONES  TO  RAISE  STOCK  FOR  GRAFTING,  ETC. 

As  early  as  possible  this  month  sow  the  stones  of  plums,  peaches, 
nectarines,  apricots  and  cherries,  &c.,  which  were  preserved  in  sand 
or  earth  from  the  time  of  the  fruit  being  ripe  till  this  period ;  for 
unless  they  were  preserved  in  this  way,  few  of  them  will  grow;  these 
may  either  be  sown  in  drills,  .or  broadcast  in  a  bed,  and  covered 
from  an  inch  to  two  inches  deep,  according  to  the  lightness  of  the 
soil  and  the  proportionate  size  of  the  stones.  I  am  by  no  means  an 


160  THE  NURSERY.  [FEB. 

advocate  for  covering  seeds  of  any  kind  too  deep,  never  having  had 
good  success  from  such.  If  the  above  sorts  are  covered  but  lightly, 
they  will  easily  grow  through  it,  and  when  up  you  can  refresh  them 
by  sifting  fresh  earth  over  them,  if  in  beds,  and  if  in  drills,  by  draw- 
ing it  to  their  stems. 

SOWING  HAWS  FOR  THE  RAISING  OF  THORN-QUICK. 

Having  collected  a  sufficiency  of  fruit  of  the  various  kinds  of  haw- 
thorn which  you  desire  to  propagate,  the  autumn  twelve  months 
previous  to  the  time  of  sowing,  which  is,  as  early  in  spring  as  it  is 
possible  to  get  the  ground  in  a  good  state  of  culture  to  receive  them, 
proceed  to  sowing  as  hereafter  directed. 

When  you  collect  these  seeds  in  autumn,  mix  them  with  equal 
quantities  of  light  sandy  earth,  and  lay  them  in  that  state  on  the 
surface  of  a  dry  spot  of  ground  in  your  best  inclosed  garden,  where 
they  cannot  be  disturbed  by  hogs,  &c. ;  form  this  mixture  into  a  nar- 
row, sloping  ridge,  tapering  to,  the  top,  and  covering  it  with  light, 
loose  earth  two  inches  thick  all  over;  the  April  following,  turn  this 
ridge,  mixing  the  whole  together,  and  form  it  again  in  the  same  way, 
covering  in  like  manner  as  before  with  two  inches  deep  of  light,  loose 
earth  ;  repeat  this  again  in  the  months  of  July  and  August,  by  which 
the  seeds  in  every  part  will  be  equally  prepared  for  vegetation.  A 
trench  must  be  cut  round  this  ridge  to  prevent  any  water  from 
lodging  about  the  seeds,  for  this  would  rot  many,  and  injure  others, 
especially  in  the  second  winter,  when  the  stones  would  be  losing 
their  cementing  quality,  and  begin  to  open ;  for  until  this  is  effected, 
the  kernels  cannot  vegetate.  Hence  the  necessity  and  great  advan- 
tage of  not  burying  the  stones  in  the  earth,  as  injudiciously  practised 
by  many;  for  if  so  treated,  they  would  not  have  the  advantage  des- 
tined by  nature  for  their  due  preparation,  and  would  labor  under 
many  other  disadvantages,  as  hereafter  noticed. 

It  is  well  known,  that  many  kinds  of  seeds  when  buried  in  the 
earth  below  the  power  of  vegetation,  remain  in  an  inactive  state  for 
several  years,  even  those  whose  nature  it  is  to  vegetate  the  first  season 
when  properly  exposed ;  how  much  more  so  must  it  be  with  seeds  of 
such  tardy  vegetation  as  haws,  and  many  other  sorts ;  but  by  being 
thus  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air,  and  frequently 
turned  as  before  directed,  all  become  equally  and  sufficiently  pre- 
pared, and  will  not  fail  when  sowed  in  due  season  and  suitable  soil 
to  reward  the  judicious  cultivator  with  an  abundant  crop. 

When  those  seeds  are  buried  deep,  and  not  mixed  with  a  due 
quantity  of  earth  as  before  observed,  they  are  subject  to  ferment  too 
powerfully,  and  also  to  be  injured  by  too  much  wet,  and  will  never 
be  found,  more  especially  when  large  quantities  of  them  are  together, 
to  vegetate  equally — those  near  the  surface  and  sides  of  the  pit  doing 
tolerably  well — some  of  the  others  not  growing  until  a  full  year  after 
being  sowed,  and  the  greater  number  not  at  all. 

There  is  not  the  least  danger  to  be  apprehended  from  frost  in- 
juring the  seeds  whilst  so  much  exposed  to  it  in  those  ridges ;  how- 
ever, it  will  not  be  amiss  to  strew  a  light  covering  of  long  litter  over 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY.  161 

them  on  the  approach  of  winter,  which  will  keep  them  dry,  and  con- 
sequently in  a  better  state  for  sowing  when  the  season  arrives. 

The  above  mode  of  preparation  is  the  result  of  the  Author's  expe- 
rience for  upwards  of  twenty  years,  being*  in  the  habit  of  raising 
several  millions  of  thorn-quicks  annually. 

Your  haws  being  prepared  as  above,  make  ready  a  piece  of  good, 
rich  ground,  neither  upon  an  elevated  situation,  nor  too  low;  in  the 
former,  the  summer  drought  would  be  unfriendly,  and  in  the  latter, 
they  would  be  subject  to  mildew;  this  must  be  done  as  early  in 
spring  as  you  can  get  the  ground  to  work  freely  and  pulverize  well ; 
for  the  haws  begin  to  throw  out  roots  at  a  very  early  period,  and  if 
not  sown  at  this  time  or  before,  a  great  number  of  those  roots  will  be 
broken  off  in  the  act  of  sowing,  and  thereby  totally  lost ;  the  others 
which  escape  this  accident,  having  their  radicles  extended  on  the 
surface,  penetrate  the  earth  at  the  extreme  points  of  those  roots, 
forming  right  angles  with  the  parts  already  produced,  by  which 
means  they  can  never  drive  up  the  seed-leaves  with  as  much  vigor 
as  if  the  radicles  descended  immediately  in  a  perpendicular  direction 
from  the  stones  of  the  fruit ;  hence  the  necessity  of  early  sowing. 

The  ground,  however,  must  not  be  wrought  while  wet,  or  at  least 
the  seeds  should  not  be  covered  with  wet  or  heavy  earth,  nor  too 
deep,  for  if  the  surface  should  cake  or  become  stiff  in  consequence 
of  dry  weather  ensuing,  few  of  these  young  plants  having  broad 
seed-leaves  could  bear  up  through  it;  therefore  you  must  be  very  cau- 
tious in  that  point;  and  if  the  earth  of  your  bed  is  not  light  and  dry 
enough  for  this  purpose,  you  must  carry  as  much  as  will  cover  the 
seeds  from  some  dry  compost  heap,  or  some  quarter  of  the  garden 
where  it  can  be  found  in  a  suitable  condition. 

On  examining  your  haws,  if  you  find  the  earth  in  which  they  are 
mixed  any  way  clogged  with  too  much  moisture,  so  that  the  parts 
and  seeds  would  not  separate  freely  in  the  act  of  sowing,  mix  there- 
with a  sufficient  quantity  of  slack-lime  or  wood-ashes,  to  accomplish 
that  end. 

Having  everything  in  readiness,  and  your  ground  well  dug,  and 
raked  effectually  as  you  proceed  in  the  digging,  still  presuming  that 
it  is  in  the  best  possible  state  of  preparation,  lay  it  out  into  four  feet 
wide  beds,  leaving  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  of  an  alley  between  each, 
and  with  the  back  of  the  rake  push  off  into  these  alleys  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  of  the  fine  raked  surface  of  the  beds,  one-half  of 
each  bed  to  the  one  side,  and  the  other  to  the  opposite ;  this  done, 
sow  your  haws  thereon,  earth  and  all,  as  they  had  lain,  so  thick  that 
you  may  expect  a  thousand  plants  at  least  after  every  reasonable 
allowance  for  faulty  or  imperfect  seeds  (there  being  many  of  these), 
on  every  three  or  four  yards  of  your  beds ;  (I  have  often  had  that 
number  upon  as  many  feet) ;  then,  with  a  spade  or  shovel  cast  the 
earth  out  of  the  alleys  evenly  over  the  beds,  covering  the  seeds  not 
more  than  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep,  and  not  more  than  half  an 
inch  if  the  earth  be  any  way  stiff;  after  which,  rake  the  tops  of  the 
beds  very  lightly,  taking  care  not  to  disturb  the  seeds,  in  order  to 
take  off  the  lumps  and  to  give  a  neat  appearance  to  the  work. 
11 


162  THE  NURSERY.  [FEB. 

The  business  being  thus  finished  for  the  present,  should  you  at  a 
future  period  perceive,  especially  when  the  plants  are  beginning  to 
appear  above  ground,  any  stiffness  on  the  surface  occasioned  by  dry 
weather,  give  the  beds  frequent  but  gentle  waterings,  till  all  those  in- 
nocent prisoners  are  released  from  their  bondage,  after  which  you 
will  have  pleasure  and  profit  in  their  progress. 

But  this  is  not  all ;  the  whole  of  your  former  trouble  will  be  totally 
lost,  unless  you  are  particularly  careful  in  keeping  these  beds  effect- 
ually free  from  weeds  from  the  moment  the  plants  appear  above 
ground,  till  they  are  fit  to  be  planted  in  hedge-rows,  and  even  then, 
until  they  have  arrived  at  a  sufficient  size  not  to  be  injured  by  such. 

It  was  an  old  practice  to  sow  these  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe,  covering 
them  about  an  inch  deep;  but  the  loss  of  the  ground  during  the  long 
period  in  which  they  lie  dormant,  the  trouble  and  expense  of  weeding 
them  all  that  time,  the  numbers  pulled  up  and  exposed  to  animals  of 
various  sorts,  and  I  may  say  the  exposure  of  the  whole  to  mice, 
squirrels,  &c.,  have  very  justly  induced  to  the  abandonment  of  that 
mode  of  culture. 

Indeed,  they  may  be  sown  with  considerable  safety  the  November 
twelve  months  after  they  are  ripe,  being  previously  prepared  as  before 
directed,  there  is  no  impediment  in  their  way  at  that  season,  but  their 
long  exposure  to  the  depredations  of  mice,  &c.,  which  are  extremely 
fond  of  their  kernels ;  as  to  frost  they  value  it  not.  However,  upon 
the  whole,  I  prefer  the  early  spring  sowing,  and  have  generally  prac- 
tised it  with  the  best  success. 

Many  of  these  plants,  and  indeed  the  greater  number,  if  the 
ground  be  good,  will  be  fit  for  planting  into  the  face  of  ditches  the 
autumn  or  spring  following,  and  the  entire  of  them  that  time  twelve 
months ;  but  if  they  are  intended  for  forming  upright  hedges,  the 
strongest  of  the  year  old  plants  must,  in  the  month  of  March,  or 
very  early  in  April,  be  drawn  out  of  the  seed-beds,  their  long  tap- 
roots cut  off,  so  as  to  shorten  them  to  the  length  of  five  or  six  inches, 
and  then  planted  into  nursery  rows  about  two  feet  asunder,  and  the 
plants  to  be  about  six  inches  distant  in  these  rows ;  having  there  two 
or  three  years'  growth,  they  will  be  in  prime  condition  for  that  pur- 
pose ;  the  remaining  plants  may  be  taken  up  the  spring  following, 
and  treated  in  the  same  way. 

It  often  happens  that  an  after-growth  of  young  plants  arises  in  the 
seed-bed  the  second  year,  particularly  when  the  haws  have  not  been 
well  prepared ;  these  seldom  come  to  anything  :  but  if  you  pursue 
the  method  already  prescribed,  you  may  depend  on  a  good  and  gene- 
ral crop  the  first  year. 

The  various  kinds  of  hawthorns  that,  on  account  of  their  spininess 
might  suit  for  live  hedges,  are  the  following ;  all  being  indigenous  in 
the  United  States,  except  the  first,  which  is  the  kind  principally  used 
in  Europe  for  that  purpose. 

1.  Cratsegus  oxyacantha,  or  common  European  hawthorn,  or 
whitethorn.  Leaves  obtuse  sultrifate  serrate. 

With  a  robust  trunk,  branching  from  the  bottom  upwards  to  ten 
or  fifteen  feet  high,  the  branches  armed  with  spines ;  leaves  obtuse, 
trifid  and  sawed,  with  numerous  clusters  of  flowers  from  the  sides 


FEB.]  -   THE  NURSERY.  163 

and  ends  of  the  branches,  succeeded  by  bunches  of  dark  red  fruit, 
commonly  called  haws ;  flowers  two-styled,  sometimes  three  or  four. 

2.  Cratsegus  coccinea,  or  great  American  hawthorn.     Leaves  cor- 
date-ovate, gash-angledj  smooth  ;  petioles  and  calyxes  glandular;  flow- 
ers Jive-styled. 

This  rises,  when  detached,  to  the  height  of  near  twenty  feet,  with 
a  large  upright  trunk,  dividing  into  many,  strong,  irregular,  smooth 
branches,  so  as  to  form  a  large  head.  Leaves  large  and  bending 
backwards ;  they  are  about  four  inches  long,  and  three  and  a  half 
broad,  having  five  or  six  pairs  of  strong  nerves,  and  become  of  a 
brownish  red  in  autumn.  The  flowers  come  out  from  the  sides  of 
the  branches  in  umbels  or  large  clusters  ;  they  are  large,  make  a  noble 
show  early  in  May,  and  are  succeeded  by  large  fruit  of  a  bright 
scarlet  color,  which  ripens  in  August  or  September.  The  branches 
are  marked  with  irregularly  scattered  dots;  thorns  axillary,  stout, 
spreading  very  much  from  the  rudiments  of  the  branches.  Pedun- 
cles pubescent,  corymbed. 

3.  Crat&gus  crus  galli,  or  cockspur  hawthorn.     Leaves  subsessile, 
glittering,  coriaceous;  calycine  leaflets,  lanceolate  subserrate  ;  flow- 
ers, two-styled. 

Stem  strong,  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  bark  of  the  stem  rough,  of 
the  branches  smooth  and  reddish.  Leaves  lanceolate,  three  inches 
long,  and  about  one  inch  broad  in  the  middle,  serrate,  of  a  lucid 
green,  alternate ;  at  many  of  the  joints  are  smaller  leaves  in  clusters; 
thorns  axillary,  very  strong,  two  inches  in  length,  and  bending  like 
a  cock's  spur.  Flowers  axillary,  in  roundish  clusters,  generally  two 
together,  petals  white,  with  a  blush  of  red ;  styles  three ;  fruit  globu- 
lar, of  a  red  color.  It  flowers  the  latter  end  of  May. 

4.  Cratsegus  tomentosa,  or  woolly-leaved  hawthorn.    Leaves  wedge- 
form-ovate,  serrate,  somewhat  angular,  viUose  underneath. 

This  has  a  slender  shrubby  stem  about  six  or  seven  feet  high,  send- 
ing out  many  irregular  branches,  armed  with  long  slender  thorns. 
The  flowers  are  small,  proceeding  from  the  sides  of  the  branches, 
sometimes  single,  and  at  other  times  two  or  three  upon  the  same 
peduncle,  having  large  leafy  calyxes,  and  being  succeeded  by  small 
roundish  fruit.  The  flowers  appear  the  latter  end  of  May,  and  the 
fruit  ripens  in  September. 

5.  Cratsegus  cordata,  or  maple-leaved  hawthorn.     Leaves  cordate- 
ovate,  gash-angled,  smooth,  petioles  and  calyxes  without  glands;  flow- 
ers flve-styled. 

This  rises  with  a  strong  woody  stem  about  five  or  six  feet  high, 
sending  out  many  spreading  branches  which  incline  to  a  horizontal 
position.  Leaves  different  in  form,  some  indented  at  the  petiole,  others 
not :  they  are  generally  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  nearly 
of  the  same  breadth  in  the  middle,  ending  in  acute  points,  and  their 
borders  cut  into  several  acute  parts,  which  are  sharply  serrate ;  they 
are  of  a  bright  green,  and  stand  on  very  slender  petioles,  about  an 
inch  in  length.  The  branches  are  armed  with  a  few  pretty  long 
slender  spines.  The  flowers  come  out  in  small  bunches  from  the 
sides  of  the  branches;  stamens  eight;  styles  four;  fruit  round,  con- 
gaining  two  seeds. 


164  THE  NURSERY.  [FEB. 

Branches  spotted  with  white ;  leaves  cut  into  three,  five,  or  seven 
segments,  accuminate,  the  size  of  birch-leaves.  Petiole  very  slender, 
shorter  than  the  leaves :  corymb  compound :  bractes  at  the  base  of 
the  peduncles,  solitary,  subulate,  very  small,  deciduous :  flowers  some- 
what smaller  than  the  European  hawthorn :  teeth  of  the  calyx  very 
short,  obtuse,  falling  off  when  the  fruit  is  ripe  :  styles  five  :  fruit  an 
oblate  spheroid,  scarlet,  the  size  of  a  red  currant :  the  navel  loose, 
naked  :  stones  five,  tops  filling  up  the  navel,  and  naked.  It  flowers 
the  last  of  the  genus. 

6.  Cratsegus  pyrifolia,  or  pear-leaved  hawthorn.     Leaves  ovate- 
elliptic,  gash-serrate,  somewhat  plaited  and  hirt,  calyxes  a  little  villose, 
leaflets  linear-lanceolate  serrate,  flowers  three-staled.     This  species  is 
sometimes  unarmed. 

7.  Cratsegus  elliptica,  or  oval-leaved  hawthorn.      Leaves  elliptic, 
unequally  serrate  smooth,  petioles  and  calyxes  glandular,  fruit  globu- 
lar, five-seeded. 

8.  Craleegus  glandulosa,  or  hollow-leaved  hawthorn.     Leaves  obo- 
vate-wedge-form,  angular,  smooth,  glittering  ;  petioles,  stipules,  and 
calyxes  glandular  ;  fruit  oval,  Jive-seeded. 

This  has  very  stout  thorns.  It  flowers  in  May,  and  is  a  very 
beautiful  shrub. 

9.  Crat&egus  flava,  or  yellow  pear-berried  hawthorn.    Leaves  ovate, 
wedge-form,  angular,  smooth,  glittering;  petioles,  stipules,  and  calyxes 
glandular  ;  fruit  turbinate,  four-seeded. 

There  are  often  small  leaves  on  the  thorns,  which  in  this  and  the 
following  species,  are  slender,  and  a  little  bent  at  the  ends ;  it  flowers 
in  May. 

10.  Cratsegus  parviflora,  or  gooseberry-leaved  hawthorn.    Leaves 
wedge-form-ovate  gashed  serrate  ;  calycine  leaflets  gashed  the  length 
of  the  fruit ;  flowers  five-styled. 

This  is  of  humble  growth,  seldom  rising  more  than  five  or  six  feet, 
sending  out  a  great  number  of  branches,  which  are  interwoven  and 
armed  with  very  long  slender  spines.  The  leaves  are  scarcely  an 
inch  long,  and  some  are  not  more  than  half  an  inch  broad,  but  others 
are  almost  as  broad  as  they  are  long ;  they  are  serrate,  and  have  very 
short  footstalks.  The  flowers  are  produced  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches,  generally  one  coming  out  from  between  the  leaves,  but 
sometimes  there  are  two  or  three,  one  below  the  other  at  the  axils ; 
they  have  large  leafy  calyxes,  much  longer  than  the  petals  ;  they  are 
small,  have  twelve  or  more  stamens,  and  four  styles.  The  fruit  is 
small,  and  of  an  herbaceous  yellow  color  when  ripe. 

There  are  many  other  varieties  of  the  hawthorn  in  the  United 
States ;  but  these  being  generally  unfurnished  with  spines,  are  not 
so  suitable  for  hedges  as  those  described.  Of  the  above,  the  first, 
second,  and  third  sorts,  where  they  can  conveniently  be  had,  are  the 
best  kinds  to  cultivate ;  but  either  of  them  will  answer  that  purpose 
very  well.  The  cultivation  of  all  the  species  is  similar. 

For  further  particulars,  and  for  the  best  methods  of  planting 
hedges,  as  well  as  the  several  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  most  suitable 
for  them,  see  the  Nursery  in  March. 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY.  165 


SOWING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  HARDY  TREE  AND  SHRUB  SEEDS,  WHICH 
REQUIRE  A  PREVIOUS  PREPARATION. 

Ash,  hornbean,  red  cedar,  mezereon,  juniper,  holly,  yew,  spindle- 
tree,  bladder-nut,  and  lauruses  of  various  kinds,  with  many  others, 
will  require  the  same  preparation  as  directed  for  haws ;  they  must  be 
sown  at  the  same  time,  and  covered  only  in  proportion  to  the  size  of 
their  seeds ;  that  is,  the  smaller  seeds  will  require  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  inch  of  covering,  and  the  larger,  from  half  to  three-quarters 
of  an  inch,  in  proportion  to  the  lightness  of  the  soil.  Always  avoid,  at 
this  season  particularly,  sowing  seeds  of  any  kind  too  deep,  especially 
if  the  ground  is  of  a  heavy  binding  nature,  or  too  wet  at  the  time  of 
working  it. 


SOWING  KERNELS  OP  APPLES,  PEARS,  AND  QUINCES. 

So  soon  as  you  find  the  ground  in  a  good  dry  state,  sow  the  ker- 
nels of  apples,  pears,  and  quinces,  to  raise  stocks  for  budding  and 
grafting  on.  The  sooner  that  this  can  be  done  the  better.  It  will 
be  necessary  to  have  these  kernels  preserved,  either  in  sand  or  earth, 
from  the  time  they  were  taken  out  of  the  fruit  till  the  time  of  sow- 
ing, or  to  take  them  at  that  time  immediately  fresh  out  of  the  fruit; 
for  when  long  exposed  to  the  dry  air  they  lose  their  vegetative 
quality. 


CARE  OF  TENDER  AND  YOUNG  SEEDLING  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

In  order  to  avoid  repetitions  and  make  room  for  other  important 
matter,  I  refer  you  for  instructions  on  the  above  subjects  to  page  71, 
observing  that  the  same  care  and  management  recommended  there 
will  be  necessary  during  the  whole  of  the  winter  months. 

By  one  night's  neglect  at  this  season  you  might  lose  what  cost  you 
the  labor  of  months;  therefore  diligent  care  and  attention  is  particu- 
larly requisite  during  severe  weather. 

HOT-BEDS  FOR  SOWING  TREE  AND  SHRUB  SEEDS  IN. 

Make  hot-beds  for  sowing  therein  some  of  the  more  curious  kinds 
of  tree  and  shrub  seeds.  These  are  to  be  made  as  directed  for  cu- 
cumbers in  page  20,  and  fully  as  substantial;  sow  the  seeds  either 
in  pots  or  long  narrow  boxes,  covering  each  kind  with  light  dry  earth 
in  proportion  to  its  size;  then  plunge  these  pots  and  boxes  to  their 
rims  in  the  earth  of  the  beds,  but  not  till  after  the  violent  heat  has 
passed  away ;  sprinkle  the  earth  in  these  pots  frequently  but  very 
lightly  with  water  till  the  plants  are  up,  after  which  you  may  give  it 
in  proportion  to  their  apparent  necessity. 

Keep  the  beds  carefully  covered  at  nights  and  in  desperately  ^e- 
vere  weather,  and  when  the  heat  declines  renew  it  by  adding  a  lining 
of  fresh  horse-dung  to  the  sides  and  ends  occasionally. 


166  THE  PLEASURE,  OB  [FEB. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

The  various  works  recommended  to  be  done  in  page  71,  this 
month  and  March,  in  the  Nursery,  may  be  now  practised  with  good 
success  in  Georgia  and  South  Carolina  and  various  other  parts  of  the 
more  southern  States.  This  being  their  proper  period  for  grafting, 
I  refer  them  for  general  observations  and  instructions  on  that  head 
to  the  work  of  the  Nursery  in  March. 


THE  PLEASURE  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

HARDY  ANNUAL  FLOWER-SEEDS. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild  and 
dry,  you  may  sow  many  sorts  of  hardy  annual  flower-seeds  in  bor- 
ders and  other  parts  of  the  pleasure-garden. 

The  sorts  proper  to  .sow  at  this  time  are  larkspur  and  flos  Adonis, 
scarlet  pea,  sweet-scented  and  Tangier  peas,  candy-tuft,  dwarf  lych- 
nis, Venus's  looking-glass,  LobeFs  catch-fly,  Venus' s  navelwort,  dwarf 
poppy,  Nigella,  annual  sunflower,  oriential  mallow,  lavatera,  and 
hawk- weed,  with  many  other  sorts. 

Some  of  these,  if  sown  now,  particularly  the  Larkspur,  flos  Adonis, 
sweet  and  Tangier  peas,  will  flower  much  better  than  if  sown  at  a 
later  period. 

All  the  above  seeds  must  be  sown  in  the  places  where  you  intend 
the  plants  to  flower,  in  beds,  borders,  pots,  &c.  They  must  not  be 
transplanted,  for  these  sorts  will  not  succeed  so  well  by  that  practice. 
The  following  is  the  method : — 

The  flower-borders  having  been  previously  dug,  dig  with  a  trowel 
small  patches  therein,  about  six  inches  in  width,  at  moderate  dis- 
tances, breaking  the  earth  well  and  making  the  surface  even ;  draw 
a  little  earth  off  the  top  to  one  side,  then  sow  the  seed  therein,  each 
sort  in  separate  patches,  and  cover  it  with  the  earth  that  was  drawn 
off,  observing  to  cover  the  small  seeds  near  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep, 
the  larger  in  proportion  to  their  size ;  but  the  pea  kinds  must  be 
covered  an  inch  deep  at  least. 

When  the  plants  have  been  up  some  time,  the  larger  growing  kinds 
should,  where  they  stand  too  thick,  be  regularly  thinned,  observing 
to  allow  every  kind,  according  to  its  growth,  proper  room  to  grow. 

For  instance,  the  sunflower  to  be  left  one  in  a  place,  the  oriental 
mallow  and  lavatera,  not  more  than  three;  the  rest  may  be  left 
thicker.  (See  May,  &c.) 

PLANT   HARDY    HERBACEOUS    FIBROUS-ROOTED   FLOWERING    PEREN- 
NIALS. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  if  the  weather  be  mild  and  open 
and  the  ground  dry,  you  may  plant,  where  wanted,  most  sorts  of 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  16f 

hardy  fibrous-rooted  flowering  plants,  both  of  perennials  and  bien- 
nials, such  as  lobelias,  Phloxes,  Dracocephalums,  polyanthuses,  prim- 
roses, London-pride,  violets,  double  camomile,  thrift,  gentianella, 
hepaticas,  and  saxifrage. 

Plant  also  rose-campion,  rockets,  catch-fly,  scarlet  lychnis,  double 
feverfew,  carnations,  pinks,  sweet-williams,  columbines,  Canterbury- 
bells,  monk's-hood,  Greek  valerian,  tree  primrose,  foxglove,  golden 
rods,  perennial  asters,  perennial  sunflowers,  hollyhocks,  French  honey- 
suckles, and  many  others. 

In  planting  the  above,  or  any  other  sorts,  particularly  at  this  early 
period,  observe  to  preserve  balls  of  earth  about  their  roots,  to  dispose 
them  regularly,  and  intermix  the  different  kinds  in  such  order  as 
there  may  be  a  variety  of  colors,  as  well  as  a  regular  succession  of 
flowers  in  every  part  during  the  flowering  season. 

AURICULAS. 

The  choice  kinds  of  auriculas  in  pots  must  now  be  treated  with 
more  than  ordinary  care,  for  their  flower-buds  will  soon  begin  to 
advance ;  therefore  the  plants  should  be  carefully  defended  from  frost 
and  cold  heavy  rains. 

This  must  be  done  by  a  good  covering  of  glass  and  mats,  but  every 
mild  and  dry  day  the  plants  must  be  entirely  uncovered. 

Any  old  decayed  leaves  should  be  picked  off  as  they  appear,  the 
earth  loosened  at  the  top  of  the  pots,  some  of  it  taken  out  and  re- 
placed with  good  fresh  compost  mould.  This  will  encourage  the 
pushing  of  young  roots  from  immediately  under  their  leaves,  which 
will  greatly  strengthen  the  plants. 

Be  very  cautious,  however,  not  to  force  those  plants  at  this  season, 
for  that  would  prevent  their  flowering  in  any  tolerable  perfection ;  all 
they  require  is  to  be  protected  from  severe  frost,  snow,  cutting  winds, 
and  cold  rains ;  they  are  to  have  no  bottom  heat  whatever,  nor  are 
the  glasses  to  be  kept  close  in  any  kind  of  sunshine  that  might  pro- 
duce a  strong  heat  in  the  frame ;  on  the  contrary,  they  must  get  as 
much  air  as  possible,  by  taking  the  glasses  off  every  sunny  or  mild 
day,  and  replacing  them  at  night  and  in  cold  weather  ;  and  when  you 
cannot  take  them  totally  off,  raise  them  a  little  behind,  or  slide  them 
either  up  or  down,  at  every  favorable  opportunity.  A  little  frost 
will  not  do  them  much  injury,  especially  until  their  flower-buds  begin 
to  appear;  but  after  that,  they  must  be  carefully  protected  therefrom : 
cold  heavy  rains  is  their  utter  enemy  at  all  times,  against  which  you 
must  carefully  guard. 

SOW  AURICULA  AND  POLYANTHUS  SEEDS. 

Auricula  and  polyanthus  seed  may  be  sown  any  time  in  this  month ; 
they  will  grow  freely,  and  the  plants  from  this  sowing  will  rise  well. 
The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes,  or  large  pots  filled  with  light  rich 
earth,  and  covered  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  deep ;  then  place  the 
pots  or  boxes  in  a  hot-bed  frame  at  work,  give  them  fequent  but  light 
sprinklings  of  water,  both  before  and  after  the  plants  appear,  and  a 


168  TjHE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FEB. 

reasonable  proportion  of  air  at  favorable  opportunities  :  by  this  means 
you  will  have  a  fine  crop  of  seedlings,  handsomely  advanced  towards 
the  beginning  of  May ;  when,  after  all  danger  from  frost  is  over, 
(for  these  being  tenderly  raised,  would  be  subject  to  injury  there- 
from), take  the  pots  or  boxes  out  of  the  frame,  and  place  them  where 
they  can  have  only  the  morning  sun  till  ten  o'clock,  and  that  of  the 
afternoon  after  five,  during  the  remainder  of  the  summer.  The  mid- 
day sun  you  must  carefully  guard  against,  for  it  would  totally  destroy 
your  plants. 

Snails  and  slugs  being  utter  enemies  to  these  plants,  whilst  in  a 
seedling  state,  it  will  be  necessary,  so  soon  as  you  sow  the  seeds,  and 
before  placing  the  pots  and  boxes  in  a  hot-bed,  or  under  the  protection 
of  glasses  without  bottom  heat,  for  either  method  will  do,  to  make 
lines  of  short,  coarse,  strong  hair,  about  half  an  inch  or  better  in 
diameter,  to  tie  round  each  pot  or  box,  immediately  under  the  rim ; 
the  line  being  tied,  trim  the  long  loose  hairs  around  it  with  a  pair  of 
scissors,  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  length,  which  short  prickly  hairs 
will,  as  often  as  snails  or  the  like  approach  it,  in  the  act  of  ascending 
the  sides  of  the  pots  or  boxes,  prick  them,  cause  them  to  change 
their  course,  and  thereby  finally  protect  the  young  plants  from  ene- 
mies which  would  in  a  few  hours,  totally  eat  up  the  finest  crops,  par- 
ticularly the  auriculas. 

TULIPS,  HYACINTHS,  ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUSES. 


Defend  the  beds  of  the  more  curious  or  valuable  tulips,  hyacinths, 
anemones,  and  ranunculuses,  from  frost,  snow,  and  cold  or  excessive 
rains ;  the  plants  will  now  begin  to  appear  above  ground,  and  the 
beds  wherein  the  finest  of  the  flower-roots  are  planted,  should  now, 
where  intended,  and  if  not  done  before,  be  arched  over  with  hoops ; 
and  in  frosty  or  extremely  bad  weather,  let  mats  or  canvas  be  drawn 
over  them,  in  some  measure  to  defend  the  advancing  flower-buds. 

This,  where  it  can  be  conveniently  done,  should  not  now  be  omitted 
to  the  choicer  kinds,  when  required  to  have  them  blow  in  their  ut- 
most perfection  j  for  althougli  they  are  hardy  enough,  yet,  being  pro- 
tected in  their  early  flower-buds  from  inclement  weather,  both  in  this 
and  the  next  month,  the  blow  will  be  much  finer  than  if  fully  ex- 
posed; however,  this  care  is  not  necessary  for  the  common  kinds, 
either  in  beds  or  borders. 

The  early  anemones  and  ranunculuses  which  were  planted  in  Sep- 
tember or  early  in  October,  and  are  consequently  in  a  considerable 
state  of  forwardness,  will  still  require  greater  protection  than  such 
as  were  late  planted ;  for  the  rudiments  of  their  flowers  being  in  a 
somewhat  advanced  state,  would  be  greatly  injured  if  too  much  ex- 
posed, especially  to  the  great  extremes  of  our  mid-day  sun,  and  the 
severe  night  frosts  prevalent  at  this  season ;  therefore,  by  protecting 
them  carefully  from  the  rigor  of  the  one,  you  do  not  expose  them  so 
much  to  the  power  of  the  other ;  but  when  both  are  suffered  to  act 
alternately  with  their  full  respective  force  upon  these,  as  well  as  upon 
many  other  of  the  more  tender  kinds  of  flowers  and  esculents,  a  dis- 
organization of  th,eir  parts  is  the  immediate  consequence,  and  an  un- 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  169 

timely  death  their  ultimate  end.  This  is  a  "  golden  rule/'  which 
ought  to  be  assiduously  observed  with  respect  to  every  plant  that  is 
not  sufficiently  hardy  to  bear'  the  frosts  of  our  rigorous  winters. 

For  the  convenience  of  affording  all  the  above  choice  kinds  a  suit- 
able protection,  they  ought  to  be  planted  in  beds  of  rich  compost 
mould,  surrounded  with  a  hot-bed  or  other  temporary  frame,  with 
tanner's  bark  or  other  protection  drawn  up  on  the  outsides  thereof, 
all  around  as  high  as  the  upper  parts,  which  will  prevent  the  frost 
from  penetrating  and  injuring  the  plants  next  the  frame.  Over  this 
frame  you  can  lay  a  covering  of  boards  and  mats  when  necessary,  or 
if  you  have  not  mats,  straw  or  other  suitable  covering  may  be  used. 
Frost  will  enter  the  beds  notwithstanding  this  kind  of  care,  but  not 
in  sufficient  force  to  do  much  injury,  for  these  plants  are  tolerably 
hardy,  and  require  only  to  be  protected  from  its  too  powerful  influ- 
ence, as  well  as  that  of  the  sun. 

The  plants  must  be  exposed  to  the  full  air  constantly,  except  while 
freezing  sufficiently  strong  to  bind  up  the  earth,  and  at  night  or 
during  the  prevalence  of  cold,  heavy  rains  or  snow.  Such  of  the 
preceding  and  other  hardy  bulbs,  &c.,  as  yet  remain  out  of  ground, 
ought  to  be  planted  as  soon  as  possible;  observing  the  directions 
given  in  page  95,  &c.  Anemones  and  ranunculuses  if  carefully  pre- 
served, will  yet  succeed  very  well. 

CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS.* 

Your  choice  carnations  and  pinks  which  were  planted  in  pots  and 
plunged  in  beds  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  coverings,  ought, 
for  the  present,  to  be  managed  in  every  respect  as  above  directed  for 
the  protection  of  anemones,  ranunculuses,  &c.  By  this  treatment 
you  may  expect  to  be  rewarded  with  a  bloom  of  these  charming 
flowers  in  the  highest  degree  of  perfection. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild,  but  not 
otherwise,  you  may  transplant  such  as  were  raised  last  year  from 
layers  into  large  pots,  or  into  the  open  borders,  &c.,  where  you  in- 
tend them  to  blow;  but  this  would  have  been  better  if  done  in 
autumn.  Also  such  seedling  plants  as  were  raised  last  season,  may, 
under  similar  circumstances,  be  transplanted  into  any  beds  or  borders 
which  are  ready  for  their  reception,  always  observing  to  remove  them 
with  balls  of  earth  around  their  roots.  For  further  particulars,  see 
next  month. 

TENDER  ANNUALS. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  will  be  a  suitable  period  for  preparing 
to  sow  some  of  the  more  valuable  and  curious  sorts  of  tender  annuals; 
such  as  the  fine  kinds  of  double  balsams,  tricolors,  mesembryanthe- 

*  The  Remontant  class  of  these  flowers  is  now  becoming  more  generally, 
and  deservedly  so,  cultivated.  As  they  are  perpetual  bloomers  they  ought 
to  be  in  every  collection.  All  the  kinds  are  readily  propagated  from  slips 
in  a  gentle  hot-bed,  or  warm  green-house. 


170  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FEB. 

mums  or  ice  plants,  Browallia's  sensitive  plant  Ipomcea  Quamoclit, 
and  many  others. 

Therefore,  provide  some  new  horse-dung,  and  let  it  be  thrown  up 
in  a  heap,  and  in  eight  or  ten  days  it  will  be  in  good  condition  to 
make  the  bed.  Let  this  be  made  about  three  feet  high  of  dung, 
levelling  the  top,  and  then  set  on  the  frame  and  glasses.  When  the 
burning  heat  is  over  lay  on  the  earth,  observing  that,  for  this  use,  it 
must  be  rich,  light,  and  perfectly  dry,  and  broken  pretty  small  by 
rubbing  it  between  the  hands ;  the  depth  of  earth  on  the  bed  must  be 
about  five  or  six  inches,  making  the  surface  level  and  smooth. 

The  seed  may  either  be  sown  on  the  surface,  observing  to  sow  each 
sort  separate,  covering  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  or  rather  less, 
with  light  earth ;  or  you  may  draw  some  shallow  drills  with  your 
finger  from  the  back  to  the  front  of  the  bed,  sow  the  seeds  therein, 
and  cover  as  above ;  or  you  may  sow  them  in  pots  and  plunge  these 
into  the  earth  of  the  hot-bed.  But  if  you  intend  sowing  in  pots,  and 
you  have  the  convenience  of  tanner's  bark,  lay  on  eight  or  nine 
inches,  or  a  foot  deep  of  it  all  over  the  bed  in  place  of  the  earth,  to 
plunge  your  pots  therein,  in  which  case  two  and  a  half  feet  deep  of 
dung  will  be  sufficient. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  admit  fresh  air  to  them  every  day 
when  the  weather  is  any  way  mild,  and  let  them  have  now  and  then 
gentle  sprinklings  of  water.  Mind  to  cover  the  glasses  every  night, 
and  in  bad  weather  with  mats ;  or  if  boards  are  first  laid  on,  and  then 
covered  with  mats,  they  will  afford  an  additional  protection. 

But  in  raising  the  above  annuals,  if  it  is  required  to  be  saving  of 
hot  dung  and  trouble,  and  there  are  cucumber  or  melon  hot-beds  at 
work,  you  may  sow  them  in  pots  and  place  them  in  these  beds  to 
raise  the  plants ;  which  may  afterwards  be  transplanted  or  pricked 
into  other  pots  in  the  same,  or  into  a  nursery  hot-bed,  to  forward 
them  to  a  proper  size.  For  the  further  management  of  these  plants, 
see  March  and  April. 

SOWING  TEN-WEEK  STOCK  AND  MIGNONETTE. 

The  ten-week  stock  is  a  beautiful  annual;  none  makes  a  more 
agreeable  appearance  in  pots,  and  in  the  borders,  &c.,  and  it  con- 
tinues a  long  time  in  bloom.  The  mignonette  imparts  a  sweet  and 
agreeable  odor,  for  which  purpose  it  is  extremely  worthy  of  cultiva- 
tion. 

When  these  plants  are  wanted  in  early  perfection,  the  seeds  of 
either  may  be  sown,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  in  a  slight  hot- 
bed, or  in  a  very  warm  border,  to  be  covered  with  a  frame  and 
glasses ;  but  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  former  it  will  bring  the  plants 
on  much  sooner,  though,  in  the  latter,  they  will  be  tolerable  early, 
and  being  raised  in  a  more  hardy  manner  may  be  planted  out  into 
the  borders  with  better  success ;  yet,  when  they  are  wanted  for  an 
early  blow  in  pots,  the  hot-bed  is  preferable. 

Sow  the  seeds  either  in  pots  or  on  the  surface  of  the  bed,  covering 
them  with  light,  dry  earth  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  or  a 
little  more,  and  give  them  gentle  occasional  waterings,  and  the  neces- 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  171 

sary  protection  from  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather,  and  plenty  of 
air  at  proper  opportunities.  Towards  the  latter  end  of  April  these 
may  be  planted  into  the  open  borders,  or  wherever  they  are  destined 
to  remain,  with  good  success.  The  mignonette,  being  very  impatient 
of  transplanting,  ought  to  be  taken  up  with  as  much  earth  as  possible 
around  the  roots,  and  so  transplanted  with  particular  care. 

But  if  your  plants  stand  thick  in  the  seed-bed,  some  of  them,  when 
they  have  been  up  about  three  or  four  weeks,  or  when  about  an  inch 
high,  may  be  pricked  out  either  into  a  slight  hot-bed,  which  will  for- 
ward them  considerably,  and  some  into  small  pots  to  be  placed 
therein,  three  plants  in  each;  others  may  be  planted  on  a  warm 
border,  three  inches  asunder,  and  covered  with  hand-glasses ;  after 
they  have  stood  a  month  all  those  not  potted  should  be  planted 
where  they  are  to  remain. 

STOCKGILLY-FLOWERS  AND  WALL-FLOWERS. 

The  choice  double  and  other  stockgilly-flowers  and  wall-flowers 
which  you  have  in  pots,  and  under  the  protection  of  any  kind  of 
covering,  should  never  be  exposed  to  a  strong  sun  whilst  in  a  frozen 
state ;  they  will  stand  the  winter  with  very  little  protection  from 
frost,  but  must  be  carefully  guarded  against  the  sun's  influence  at 
such  times. 

FORCING  EARLY  FLOWERS. 

Where  early  flowers  are  required,  either  for  ornament  or  for  sale, 
you  must  prepare  for  this  business  in  October^  and  then  plant  in  suit- 
able-sized pots  the  various  kinds  that  you  intend  to  force,  such  as 
carnations,  pinks,  sweet-williams,  double  daisies,  and  other  fibrous- 
rooted  plants.  The  earliest  kinds  of  hyacinths,  van-thol,  and  other 
early  tulips,  anemones,  ranunculuses,  jonquils,  narcissusses  of  various 
sorts,  dwarf  Persian  irises,  crocuses  in  different  varieties,  and  many 
other  kinds  of  early  flowering  bulbs,  having  been  protected  in  a 
suitable  manner  as  heretofore  directed ;  you  may  about  the  begin- 
ning of  this  month  plant  these  pots,  or  such  of  them  as  you  wish  to 
force  for  the  earliest  bloom,  in  any  forcing  department  now  at  work, 
such  as  hot-houses,  forcing-houses  of  any  kind,  hot-beds,  &c.  By 
plunging  the  pots  into  the  bark-pits  or  hot-beds  you  will  have  them 
to  flower  the  sooner.  As  the  hyacinths,  carnations,  and  pinks  ad- 
vance, tie  their  flower-stems  to  neat  sticks,  or  to  pieces  of  painted 
wire  stuck  into  the  pots  for  that  purpose. 

You  may  likewise  force  pots  of  roses,  honeysuckles,  jasmines, 
double-flowering  almonds,  thorns,  cherries,  and  peaches,  and  also  any 
other  early  flowering  and  desirable  plants  by  the  same  means. 

Either  of  the  preceding  kinds  may  be  forced  in  board  forcing- 
frames,  with  the  assistance  of  hot  dung  applied  to  the  back  and 
ends  thereof,  these  being  constructed  of  strong  inch  and  a  half  or 
two  inch  plank,  made  eighteen  inches  high  in  front  and  five  or  six 
feet  high  in  the  back,  the  ends  in  proportion  and  length  at  pleasure, 
the  width  to  be  five  or  six  feet,  and  the  whole  covered  with  sloping 


172  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FEB. 

Having  such  a  frame  in  readiness,  fill  the  inside  thereof  to  a  level 
with  the  front  with  fresh  tanner's  bark,  into  which  plunge  your  pots ; 
or,  if  you  have  not  the  convenience  of  bark,  sink  a  pit  into  the  earth 
about  eighteen  inches  deep,  which  fill  to  the  surface  with  fresh  horse- 
dung;  place  the  frame  thereon,  and  add  more  dung  till  it  reaches 
within  six  inches  of  the  upper  part  of  the  frame  in  front,  then  fill 
the  remainder  to  that  level  with  good  dry  earth. 

In  either  case  plunge  the  pots  to  their  rims  in  the  bark  or  earth, 
and  add  a  lining  of  good  horse-dung  to  the  back  and  ends  of  the 
frame  to  its  entire  height,  which  will  produce  a  strong  growing  heat 
in  the  inside,  sufficient  for  any  purpose  of  forcing  small  plants.  The 
glasses  being  placed  on  this  kind  of  frame  with  a  considerable  degree 
of  elevation,  will  receive  the  rays  of  the  sun  in  a  more  direct  man- 
ner than  if  not  elevated  so  much,  by  which  means  more  heat  will 
be  accumulated. 

Shelves  may  be  erected  in  this  kind  of  frame  towards  the  back 
part,  if  the  plants  intended  to  be  forced  are  not  large,  and  the  lining 
can  be  renewed  as  often  as  necessary. 


DRESS  AND  DIG  THE  BORDERS,  BEDS,  ETC. 


When  the  weather  permits,  let  the  flower-beds  and  borders  in  ge- 
neral be  thoroughly  cleared  from  weeds  and  from  every  kind  of  litter, 
for  neatness  in  those  parts  of  the  garden  is  agreeable  at  all  times, 
but  more  particularly  at  this  season. 

Therefore,  let  the  surface  of  the  beds  and  borders  be  lightly  and 
carefully  loosened  with  a  hoe  in  a  dry  day,  and  let  them  be  neatly 
raked,  which  will  give  an  air  of  liveliness  to  the  surface,  and  the 
whole  will  appear  neat  and  very  pleasing  to  the  eye,  and  well  worth 
i  he  labor. 

Likewise,  if  any  borders,  beds,  &c.,  were  not  dug  last  autumn  or 
winter,  it  should  now  be  done,  ready  for  the  reception  of  flower- 
plants,  seeds,  &c.,  that  the  whole  may  appear  fresh  and  neat. 

PRUNE  FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

Finish  pruning  the  hardy  deciduous  flowering-shrubs  where  wanted. 
In  doing  this  work,  observe  to  cut  out  all  dead  wood,  and  where  any 
of  the  branches  are  too  long  or  grow  straggling,  let  them  be  short- 
ened or  cut  off  close,  as  you  shall  see  necessary;  and  likewise,  where 
the  branches  of  different  shrubs  interfere  or  run  into  each  other, 
shorten  them  so  that  each  may  stand  singly  and  clear  of  another, 
then  all  the  different  shrubs  will  show  themselves  distinctly  and  to 
the  best  advantage. 

When  the  shrubs  are  pruned,  let  the  cuttings  be  cleared  away  and 
the  ground  be  neatly  dug  between  and  about  all  the  plants,  observing 
to  take  off  all  suckers  arising  from  the  roots.  Nothing  looks  better 
in  a  shrubbery  than  to  see  the  ground  neat  and  fresh  between  the 
flowering-shrubs  and  evergreens,  &c.,  especially  in  such  clumps  and 
other  compartments  where  the  shrubs  stand  distant. 

But  as  sometimes  particular  parts  of  a  shrubbery  are  on  some 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  173 

occasions  required  to  form  a  close  thicket,  in  that  case  very  little 
pruning  or  digging,  &c.,  is  wanted. 

CARE  OF  GRASS  WALKS  AND  LAWNS. 

Grass  walks  and  lawns  should  be  kept  extremely  clean.  In  dry 
weather,  as  soon  as  the  greater  winter  frost  is  over,  roll  them  with  a 
heavy  roller  to  settle  the  earth  which  the  frost  had  thrown  up. 

GRAVEL   WALKS. 

Keep  the  gravel  wjdks  perfectly  clean  and  free  from  moss,  weeds, 
or  litter  of  any  kind ;  let  them  be  well  rolled,  to  settle  them  after  the 
winter  frost,  which  will  give  them  a  fresh  and  neat  appearance,  and 
render  them  comfortable  for  walking  on. 

SOUTHERN  STATES. 

This  is  a  very  proper  period  in  the  southern  States  to  sow  annual, 
biennial,  and  perennial  flower  seeds,  and  to  transplant  the  various 
kinds  of  fibrous-rooted  herbaceous  flowering  plants ;  to  plant  out  into 
the  borders  of  the  pleasure  grounds  all  kinds  of  deciduous  trees, 
flowering  and  ornamental  shrubs ;  and,  in  short,  to  perform  all  the 
other  works  directed  to  be  done  either  in  this  or  next  month,  in  the 
pleasure  or  flower  garden  compartments,  which  are  suitable  to  that 
climate.  .': 

A  COLD  VINERY. 

A  simple  lean-to  cold  vinery,  as  represented'in  the  following  sketch, 
may  be  prepared  this  month  for  planting  in  April. 

Fig.  19. 


A  lean-to  cold  vinery ;  scale  ten  feet  to  an  inch. 

It  may  be  built  against  the  south  side  of  a  barn  or  other  building, 
and  may  be  thirty  feet  long,  twelve  feet  high  on  the  back  wall,  and 
one  foot  in  front,  and  fourteen  feet  wide.  The  ends  should  be  double, 
and  filled  in  with  tan-bark  for  warmth.  No  fire  is  used,  as  the  name 
indicates.  The  sashes  are  in  two  lengths,  the  upper  ones  to  slide 
easily  over  the  bottom  ones,  so  that  the  house  may  be  readily  aired. 

A  hogshead  sunk  in  one  corner  of  the  house  will  catch  the  water 
from  the  barn.  The  border  may  extend  over  the  whole  inside,  run- 


174  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

ning  twelve  feet  outside  in  front.  The  dirt  is  to  be  first  removed  to 
the  depth  of  two  feet  and  eight  inches,  then  filled  up  eight  inches 
with  broken  bricks,  stones,  and  lime  rubbish,  so  as  to  form  a  thorough 
drain ;  the  soil  is  then  filled  in  two  feet  eight  inches,  to  allow  for 
settling. 

In  the  border,  place,  say,  fifty  bushels  of  old  bones,  fifty  bushels  of 
pulverized  charcoal,  twenty- five  bushels  of  oyster  shells,  a  quantity  of 
leather  scrapings,  twenty-five  bushels  of  coal  and  leached  ashes, 
twelve  bushels  of  blacksmith  cinders  and  iron  filings,  twelve  loads  of 
well  decomposed  manure,  and  the  rest  make  up  of  street  scrapings, 
garden  soil,  and  sod  from  a  pasture.  The  whole  is  to  be  first  well 
mixed  together  and  filled  in  on  the  last  of  March,  and  the  vines  should 
then  be  planted  in  the  inside  of  the  house,  eight  inches  from  the  wall, 
one  under  each  rafter ;  this  makes  the  vines  about  three  feet  apart, 
and  ten  in  front;  the  back  wall  may  have  eight  vines. 

The  following  are  the  best  grapes  for  a  cold  vinery :  Black  Ham- 
burg, white  and  red  Frontignan ;  black  St.  Peters,  Royal  Muscadine 
or  Fontainebleau,  Palestine,  Gray  Tokay,  Black  Prince,  Purple  Chas- 
selas,  Decan's  Superb,  and  Grizzly  Frontignan.  For  its  size  and  curi- 
osity, De  la  Palestine. 

If  but  one  grape  is  to  be  cultivated  in  a  cold  grapery,  it  will  un- 
doubtedly be  black  Hamburg ;  if  three,  black  Hamburg,  white  Fron- 
tignan, and  Fontainebleau  or  Royal  Muscadine. 

A  little  study  and  attention  will  enable  every  one  to  have  profit- 
able crops  in  such  a  house.  The  best  separate  work  on  grape  culture 
is  that  by  William  Chorlton. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

Particular  attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  green-house  plants  at 
this  season,  in  order  to  give  them  occasional  waterings  and  fresh 
air,  and  if  severe  frost  should  prevail,  to  give  the  necessary  protec- 
tion. 

In  mild  weather  they  will  require  refreshments  of  water  now  and 
then,  and  admission  of  external  air  whenever  it  can  be  given  with 
safety,  though  all  should  enjoy  an  equal  benefit  of  the  latter;  it  is 
not  so  with  respect  to  the  former. 

Oranges,  lemons,  and  myrtles,  and  most  other  of  the  woody  plants 
will  require  water  frequently,  but  never  give  them  much  at  a  time, 
and  none  but  when  absolutely  necessary. 

The  herbaceous  kinds  will  also  require  occasional  supplies  of  water, 
but  less  frequent,  and  in  less  quantities  than  the  woody  tribe. 

Let  the  succulent  kinds,  such  as  aloes,  sedems,  mesembryanthe- 
mums,  cactuses,  &c.,  have  water  but  very  sparingly,  and  only  when 
the  earth  in  the  pots  is  very  dry. 

Examine  the  tubs  and  pots  separately  to  see  which  want  water ; 
let  none  be  given  but  when  necessary,  and  always  very  moderately ; 
a  little  will  be  serviceable,  but  too  much  would  be  of  bad  consequence 
at  this  season. 


FEB.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  H5 

Air  should  be  admitted  to  the  plants  at  all  times  when  the  weather 
is  favorable,  for  that  is  a  necessary  article ;  they  cannot  thrive  with- 
out it,  nor  continue  a  healthful  lively  appearance.  Every  day,  when 
the  weather  is  mild,  let  some  of  the  windows  be  opened  a  little  way 
for  the  admission  of  air,  and  take  care  that  they  are  shut  again  in  due 
time. 

But  be  very  particular  not  to  admit  sharp  or  cutting  winds,  or 
frosty  air,  into  the  green-house  at  this  season  ;  to  avoid  which,  you 
must  never  be  absent  while  the  windows  are  more  or  less  open :  for 
the  changes  of  weather  are  so  sudden,  that  a  few  hours'  inattention 
might  do  irreparable  injury  to  your  plants,  especially  to  the  more 
tender  kinds.  The  safest  method  now  of  admitting  air,  is  by  sliding 
down  the  upper  tier  of  your  front  windows,  less  or  more,  according 
to  the  weather,  which  will  not  only  admit  the  fresh,  but  discharge 
any  foul  air  which  has  been  generated  in  the  house. 

In  frosty  weather,  keep  your  lights  all  close,  and  if  very  severe, 
defend  the  windows  at  night.  If  you  have  roof-lights,  protect  them 
as  directed  in  January,  page  100. 

Fires  may  also  occasionally  be  used,  and  indeed  are  indispensable 
at  times  ',  but  these  ought  never  to  be  resorted  to  except  when  abso- 
lutely necessary,  either  to  keep  out  the  frost  or  to  dispel  damps ;  and 
even  then  you  are  to  be  very  cautious  not  to  create  thereby  too  strong 
a  heat  in  the  house,  never  above  40  or  45°  of  Fahrenheit's  thermo- 
meter ;  for  this  would  cause  your  plants  to  push  and  get  into  a  fresh 
state  of  vegetation,  which  would  be  extremely  injurious  to  them  dur- 
ing any  of  the  winter  months. 

Another  thing  to  be  regarded,  is  to  keep  the  plants  of  all  kinds 
free  from  casual  decayed  shoots  and  leaves,  for  these  are  not  only 
hurtful  to  the  plants  while  in  the  house,  but  appear  very  unsightly ; 
therefore,  whenever  such  appear,  let  them  be  constantly  taken  off; 
keep  also  the  pots,  &c.,  and  green-house,  always  neatly  clean. 

The  latter  end  of  this,  or  any  time  next  month,  you  ought  to 
loosen  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  pots  or  tubs  of  your  oranges,  le- 
mons, and  other  plants  in  general,  and  take  out  about  an  inch  deep  or 
more,  adding  some  fresh  in  its  stead ;  this  will  prove  very  beneficial 
to  the  plants,  and  whoever  will  bestow  this  little  dressing  upon  them, 
will  see  the  advantage  of  it  in  a  short  time. 

Your  pots  of  Cape  bulbs,  such  as  Ixias,  Gladioluses,  Lachenalias, 
Moreas,  Watsonias,  Lapeyrousias,  Walchendorfias,  Tritonias,  Antho- 
lizas,  Cyanelias,  and  Oxalis  versicolor — Babianas,  Massonias,  Geisso- 
rhizas,  Melanthiums  and  Melasphaerulas,  &c.,  which  are  now  in  a 
state  of  vegetation,  should  be  kept  all  towards  the  front  of  the  house, 
and  as  near  the  glasses  as  possible,  lest  they  should  draw  up  weakly, 
and  thereby  produce  but  indifferent  flowers. 

HOT-BEDS   FOR  RAISING   GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Make  hot-beds  to  sow  tender  exotic  seeds  in,  observing  to  work  the 
dung  well,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times  while  it  remains  in  the 
heap,  at  intervals  of  four  or  five  days ;  make  the  beds  as  directed  for 
cucumbers,  page  20,  to  the  height  of  three  feet  six  inches ;  put  on 


176  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

your  frames,  and  lay  eight  or  ten  inches  of  good  fresh  tan  even  over 
the  bed ;  if  that  cannot  be  conveniently  had,  lay  on  six  inches  of  dry 
eacth  ;  when  the  bed  comes  to  its  heat,  sow  your  seeds  separately  in 
pots,  and  plunge  them  into  the  tan  or  earth ;  some  of  these  will  not 
vegetate  for  a  long  time,  and  others  frequently  lie  in  the  ground  a 
whole  year.  When  the  heat  of  the  bed  is  on  the  decline,  add  a  fresh 
lining  of  hot  dung,  as  directed  for  cucumber  and  melon  beds.  Or 
these  seed  may  be  sowed  in  pots,  and  plunged  into  the  bark-bed  in 
the  stove. 

Plant  cuttings  of  Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  Myrtles,  Hydrangeas,  and 
other  green-house  plants  in  small  pots,  one  or  more  in  each,  and 
plunge  them  into  a  hot-bed;  they  will  now  freely  strike  root  and  be 
fine  early  plants ;  these  when  they  begin  to  grow  must  have  plenty 
of  air  occasionally,  and  be  carefully  protected  at  night  and  in  severe 
weather.  '  . 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

As  most  hot-houses  are  frequently  infested  with  various  kinds  of 
insects,  which  do  very  considerable  injury  to  the  plants,  it  may  be 
of  some  importance  to  give  a  description  of  these,  and  also  the  most 
effectual  methods  of  destroying  them. 

OF  THE  SPECIES  OF  INSECTS  THAT   INFEST  THE  PINE-APPLE  PLANTS. 

1.  THE  BROWN  TURTLE  INSECT.     Coccus  hesperidum  of  Linn. 
This  species  is  not  only  found  upon  the  pines  and  most  other  plants 
which  grow  in  hot-houses,  but  also  upon  many  plants  which  are  in 
green-houses.     These  insects,  after  they  are  arrived  at  a  certain  age, 
fix  themselves  immovably  to  the  leaves  of  the  plant ;  but,  before  that 
time,  though  they  generally  appear  motionless,  yet  on  a  close  inspec- 
tion, in  a  very  warm  day,  many  of  them,  and  especially  the  smaller 
ones,  may  be  perceived  to  move  to  different  parts  of  the  plant,  being 
in  appearance  much  like  a  turtle  in  miniature. 

A  sweet  glutinous  matter  issues  from  these  insects,  this  soon  turns 
mouldy,  and  in  time  become  quite  black,  which  causes  the  plants  to 
appear  very  unsightly.  But  as  these  insects  do  not,  in  any  other 
respect,  injure  the  pine-plants,  I  shall  pass  over  them,  and  proceed 
to  those  of  a  more  pernicious  nature. 

2.  THE  WHITE  SCALY  INSECT.     This  insect,  as  far  as  I  can  learn, 
has  hitherto  remained  undescribed;    neither  Linnaeus,  Geoffrey,  or 
Scheeffer,  seem  to  have  known  it. 

This  species  is  very  nearly  allied  to  the  former,  both  of  them  being 
Cocci,  and  of  the  oviparous  kind ;  it  seems  to  be  exactly  similar  to  it 
in  its  manner  of  breeding,  the  process  of  which,  curious  naturalists 
have  observed  to  be  nearly  as  follows:  The  eggs  which  are  dis- 
charged from  the  female,  are  pushed  forward  between  the  skin  of 
the  belly  and  the  leaf  of  the  plant,  to  which  the  insect  adheres;  in 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE,  17 Y 

consequence  of  this,  the  skin  of  the  Ibelly  becomes  less  distended, 
which  enables  the  insect  to  afford  a  large  covering  to  the  eggs  already 
excluded.  When  the  eggs  are  all  discharged,  the  skin  of  the  belly 
retreats  close  to  the  back  of  the  parent  insect,  which  then  appears 
like  a  mere  scale.  If  the  insect  in  this  state  be  raised  with  the  point 
of  a  needle  from  the  leaf,  a  number  of  eggs  may  be  perceived  under 
it,  of  a  pale  red  color,  and  very  transparent,  not  unlike  the  roe  (or 
eggs)  of  fishes ;  but  with  this  difference,  that  they  are  not  connected 
by  a  membrane,  but  loosely  packed  together.  The  mother,  with  a 
parent  care,  not  only  thus  broods  over  her  eggs  till  they  are  hatched, 
but  continues  to  protect  her  young  for  a  considerable  time  after,  and 
either  dies  during  the  time  she  is  performing  this  last  office  for  them, 
or  very  soon  after. 

The  males  of  both  the  above  species  are  much  less  than  the  females, 
and  appear  very  different  from  them ;  the  latter,  except  just  in  their 
infant  state,  never  assuming  any  other  form  than  that  of  a  scale,  as 
already  described ;  whereas  the  males  of  both  kinds,  in  their  last 
state,  become  flies;  but  neither  of  them  can  probably  do  any  injury 
to  the  pine  plants  whilst  they  are  in  that  form  ;  for  the  flies  of  none 
of  the  coccus  kind  have  been  found,  on  the  strictest  examination  by 
the  most  able  naturalists,  to  have  any  organ  by  which  they  can  take 
in  nourishment.  In  that  state,  therefore,  they  can  probably  continue 
but  a  short  time,  the  whole  business  of  their  lives  being  then  des- 
tined to  the  impregnation  of  the  females. 

I  have  hitherto  only  taken  particular  notice  of  the  round  scale,  or 
female  insect,  which  is  the  most  conspicuous,  being  far  larger  than 
the  male.  But  a  careful  observer  will  readily  perceive,  where  these 
scales  are  numerous,  another  set  of  smaller  ones  intermixed  with 
them,  which,  if  he  be  unacquainted  with  the  natural  history  of  these 
insects,  he  will  hardly  suspect  to  belong  to  the  same  animal,  as  they 
put  on  so  different  an  appearance.  They  are  semitubular,  and  their 
length  scarcely  exceeds  the  diameter  of  one  of  the  small  round  scales, 
and  their  breadth  is  not  more  than  a  third  or  fourth  part  of  their 
length.  These,  however,  contain  the  males  in  one  of  their  last 
stages,  under  which  they  assume  the  form  of  nymphs,  and  become 
flies.  In  order  to  be  satisfied  of  this,  a  person  need  only  break  open, 
with  the  point  of  a  needle,  a  few  of  these  scales,  when  they  are  ar- 
rived at  maturity,  and  he  will  perceive  contained  within  each  of  them 
a  very  beautiful,  but  small  fly,  with  all  the  characters  of  the  flies  of 
the  coccus  kind. 

The  length  of  this  fly,  from  the  head  to  the  tail,  exclusive  of  the 
wings,  and  those  long  hairs  which  are  so  characteristic  of  the  flies 
of  this  kind,  is  about  the  thirtieth  part  of  an  inch :  and  the  length, 
including  the  wings  when  folded  one  over  the  other,  exclusive  of  the 
hairs  before  mentioned,  is  not  more  than  the  eighteenth  part  of  an 
inch. 

^The  insects  of  this  last  mentioned  species  are  of  a  very  pernicious 
nature.  When  the  pines  are  infested  with  them,  there  will  be  much 
trouble  and  great  expense  in  cleansing  them,  even  to  keep  the  insects 
under ;  and  notwithstanding  the  greatest  care,  the  plants  will  suffer 
much,  and  in  time  grow  very  unsightly;  their  leaves  will  appear 
12 


ITS  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

yellow  and  sickly,  and  generally  a  great  number  of  yellow  trapspa- 
rent  spots  may  be  seen  all  over  them. 

On  the  least  neglect  in  destroying  them,  they  will  increase  innu- 
merably, and  so  beset  the  lower  parts  of  the  leaves  next  the  stem  of  the 
plant  (where  they  are  most  numerous)  with  scales,  as  nearly  to  touch 
each  other.  And  as  they  pierce  that  part  of  the  leaf  immediately 
under  the  scale  with  their  proboscis,  they  thereby  not  only  draw  out 
the  nutricious  juices  themselves,  but  also  destroy  the  tubes  through 
which  they  flow.  The  upper  parts  of  the  leaves  being  thus  deprived 
of  their  nourishment,  consequently  die.  But  these  insects  do  not 
attack  the  roots,  as  has  been  frequently  asserted. 

3.  THE  WHITE  MEALY  CRIMSON- TINGED  INSECT.  This  insect,  as 
well  as  the  former,  I  have  not  found  to  be  noticed  by  naturalists. 

This  species  also  has  all  the  characters  of  a  coccus,  but  in  all  pro- 
bability belongs  to  another  genus.  For  whereas  the  two  former  spe- 
cies are  undoubtedly  oviparous,  this  seems  to  be  viviparous.  It  is 
most  probable  that  the  young  ones  remain  some  time  in  the  mealy 
down  of  the  mother  till  they  have  acquired  strength,  and  are  arrived 
at  such  a  degree  of  perfection,  as  to  enable  them  to  support  them- 
selves when  they  forsake  the  parent  insect  and  disperse  to  different 
parts  of  the  plant. 

When  this  species  is  first  perceived  on  the  leaves  of  the  pine,  it 
appears  to  be  nothing  more  than  small  particles  of  meal  or  powder 
collected  together ;  but  in  a  few  days  it  assumes  the  form  of  a  louse 
or  bug,  thickly  covered  with  a  fine  meal  or  down  of  an  oval  form  on 
its  upper,  and  very  fiat  on  its  under  side,  from  whence  proceed  its 
legs,  which  are  six  in  number.  These,  as  well  as  many  other  par- 
ticulars in  the  above,  and  preceding  descriptions,  are  not  to  be  dis- 
tinguished without  the  help  of  glasses. 

The  last  described  species  is  of  a  more  pernicious  nature  than  the 
former ;  it  attacks  every  part  of  the  plant,  from  the  top  of  its  fruit 
even  to  the  most  extreme  parts  of  its  roots.  These  animals  wedge 
themselves  in  between  the  protuberances  of  the  fruit  in  a  most  sur- 
prising manner,  so  as  not  to  be  got  out  without  difficulty,  which  not 
only  makes  the  fruit  appear  very  unsightly  when  it  becomes  ripe,  but 
by  robbing  it  of  its  nutricious  juices  is  the  cause  also  of  its  wanting 
flavor  and  being  ill-tasted. 

But  the  bad  effects  of  this  species  on  the  roots  of  the  plants  are 
yet  of  a  far  worse  consequence ;  for  there,  even  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pots,  they  increase  with  an  uncommon  degree  of  rapidity,  so  as  to 
become  very  numerous,  and  in  the  end  to  destroy  the  principal  roots 
of  the  plants. 

There  have  been  various  methods  used  for  the  extirpation  of  these 
insects,  such  as  shifting  the  plants  and  washing  their  roots :  decoc- 
tions from  tobacco,  wormwood,  walnut  leaves,  henbane,  and  other 
herbs  of  a  bitter  or  poisonous  quality.  Some  have  added  to  the 
above  snuff,  sulphur  and  pepper.  These  and  many  other  remedies 
have  been  tried  to  very  little  purpose ;  at  length,  Mr.  William 
Speedily,  then  gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Portland,  England,  disco- 
vered and  recommended  in  his  excellent  Treatise  on  the  Culture 
of  the  Pine-apple,  the  following  receipt,  which,  he  asserts,  "  for  the 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  179 

destruction  of  these  insects,  had  never  failed  him ;  its  efficacy  being 
confirmed  by  nine  years'  experience/' 

THE  RECEIPT. 

Take  one  pound  of  quicksilver  ;  put  it  into  a  glazed  vessel,  and 
pour  upon  it  one  gallon  of  boiling  water,  which  let  stand  till  it  be- 
comes cold ',  then  pour  off  the  water  for  use.  Repeat  this  on  the 
same  quicksilver  (for  it  will  retain  its  powers)  till  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  gallons  are  provided  to  Jill  a  vessel  intended  for  the  purpose. 
One  in  the  form  of  a  trough  that  will  hold  eight  or  ten  gallons,  is  the 
most  convenient,  especially  for  the  large-sized  plants. 

Then  to,  every  gallon  of  this  mercurial  water  add  six  ounces  of 
soft  green  soap,  dissolved  in  a  portion  of  the  prepared  water.  Let 
the  mixture  stand  till  it  becomes  milk-warm,  which  is  the  degree  of 
warmth  it  must  be  kept  to  during  the  time  of  dipping. 

Before  I  proceed  to  the  method  of  applying  the  above  mixture  to 
the  plants,  I  cannot  avoid  calling  in  question,  any  virtue  that  may 
be  attributed  to  a  mercurial  efficacy  therein ;  first,  as  it  is  the  opinion 
of  the  most  experienced  chemists,  that  crude  mercury  is  not  soluble, 
in  any  degree  in  pure  water,  whether  poured  on  in  a  cold  or  boiling 
state;  secondly,  that  if  it  contained  any  acid  when  put  on,  which 
might  decompose  a  part  of  the  mercury,  the  adding  thereto  of  soap, 
would  by  virtue  of  its  alkali,  neutralize  the  acid,  and  thereby  dis- 
engage and  precipitate  the  mercury :  therefore,  it  is  at  least  very 
questionable,  whether  its  efficacy  is  not  exclusively  attributable  to 
the  alkali  of  the  soap. 

If  in  place  of  the  quicksilver  or  crude  mercury  above  recommended, 
you  were  to  substitute  corrosive  sublimate,  in  the  following  or  even 
in  a  greater  proportion,  there  is  no  doubt  of  its  effectually  answer- 
ing the  end,  without  doing  the  shadow  of  injury  to  the  plants. 

Dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  corrosive  sublimate  in  a  pint  of  gin  or 
other  spirits ;  when  dissolved  incorporate  therewith  four  gallons  of 
soft  water,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

The  soft  soap  may  be  added  thereto,  in  the  proportion  above  men- 
tioned, but  its  alkali  acting  on  the  acid  of  the  sublimate,  will  convert 
it  into  a  mild  muriate  of  mercury,  and  consequently  render  it  much 
less  active  than  before.  » 

Previously  let  it  be  observed,  that  this  dressing  cannot  be  effectu- 
ally applied  with  propriety  to  fruiting  pines,  either  after  they  have 
started  their  fruit,  or  for  two  months  before  it,  as  disturbing  their 
roots  at  that  time  would  prevent  their  fruit  growing  to  the  full  size ; 
however,  succession  plants  may  be  dressed  at  any  period,  but  in  the 
month  of  October  that  work  can  be  done  with  the  greatest  success ; 
and  fruiting  plants,  if  infested,  may  at  any  time  be  washed  with  the 
solution,  which  will  destroy  such  insects  as  affect  them  above  ground. 

Before  the  plants  are  taken  out  of  their  pots,  I  would  advise  the 
brushing  off  a  few  of  the  scaly  insects  (as  in  a  common  dressing) 
especially  towards  the  bottom  of  the  leaves,  where  they  will  some- 
times be  so  numerous  as  in  appearance  to  lie  one  upon  another,  in 
which  case  the  mixture  might  be  prevented  from  penetrating  to  the 


180  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

bottom  insects.  I  do  not  know  that  this  business  of  brushing  is  ab- 
solutely necessary ;  but  as  the  whole  operation  in  a  large  hot-house 
may  be  performed  in  one  day,  the  labor  of  a  person  or  two  extra- 
ordinary, for  this  purpose,  can  amount  to  but  a  very  inconsiderable 
expense. 

The  leaves  of  the  large-sized  plants  should  then  be  tied  together; 
they  will  be  more  manageable  in  this  form  than  with  their  leaves 
loose,  and  less  liable  to  be  damaged.  The  plants  should  then  be 
taken  out  of  the  pots,  and  divested  of  their  long  loose  roots,  as  also 
a  few  of  the  decayed  leaves  at  the  bottom,  and  the  rest  washed  clean. 

The  last  species  of  insects  (by  gardeners  most  generally  called 
pine  bug)  will  sometimes  conceal  themselves  in  holes  at  the  bottom 
of  the  stems  of  the  plants,  especially  in  large  ones ;  and  as  the  mix- 
ture might  be  prevented  from  penetrating  into  those  holes,  by  the  air 
contained  in  them,  care  should  be  taken  to  examine  that  part  with 
great  circumspection. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  in  this  place  to  observe,  that  the  earth  which 
comes  out  of  the  pine  pots,  together  with  the  leaves  and  roots  taken 
from  off  the  plants,  should  be  removed  to  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  hot-house.  Also,  that  the  pots  out  of  which  the  pine 
plants  were  taken,  should  not  be  used  again  for  that  purpose,  without 
first  being  put  into  boiling  water. 

The  pine  plants  being  now  ready,  let  them  be  put  either  in^o  the 
mixture,  or  the  corrosive  solution,  in  which  they  should  remain,  with 
every  part  covered,  for  the  space  of  six  minutes ;  then  take  them  out, 
first  letting  the  tops  decline  for  the  mixture  to  drain  out  of  their  cen- 
tres. The  vessel  should  be  immediately  filled  with  fresh  plants,  and 
those  taken  out  set  to  dry  with  their  root  downwards  ;  for  by  placing 
them  in  that  position  the  solution,  &c.,  will  descend  and  penetrate  to 
the  very  bottom  of  the  leaves  in  the  centre  of  the  plant,  whereby  the 
insects  which  are  concealed  there  will  be  totally  destroyed.  The 
mixture  will  change  the  plants  to  a  sad  green  color,  which  will  give 
them  the  appearance  of  being  spoiled ;  but,  as  they  become  dry,  they 
will  in  a  great  measure  resume  their  proper  hue. 

During  the  operation  it  will  be  necessary  to  add  a  supply  of  hot 
mixture,  in  order  to  keep  the  whole  to  a  proper  degree  of  warmth, 
as  also  to  make  up  the  deficiency  which  must  naturally  happen. 

It  will  be  proper  to  do  this  work  in  a  firte  day,  and  as  soon  in  the 
forenoon  as  convenient,  that  the  plants  may  have  time  to  dry,  which 
they  will  do  in  a  few  hours,  and  then  they  must  undergo  the  same 
operation  a  second  time. 

The  process  of  the  second  operation  being  exactly  the  same  as  the 
first,  a  repetition  thereof  is  unnecessary. 

After  the  second  dipping,  a  sponge  should  be  used  to  remove  any 
unsightly  matter  on  the  leaves  of  the  plants.  They  should  then  be 
set  to  dry  with  their  tops  downwards,  that  the  mixture  may  drain 
from  every  part,  for  it  is  necessary  that  every  part  of  the  plant  should 
be  quite  dry  before  it  is  planted. 

During  the  performance  of  the  above  operations,  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  laborers  should  be  employed  in  getting  the  hot-house  ready 
for  the  reception  of  the  plants  (as  changing  the  tan,  and  cleaning 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  181 

every  part  of  the  hot-house);  and  if  the  inside  of  the  roof  were 
painted  at  the  same  time  it  would  be  better.  Also,  it  might  be  ser- 
viceable, if  a  small  fire  was  made  in  the  pine  pit  with  charcoal  and 
sulphur,  and  the  house  shut  up  an  hour  or  two  to  keep  in  the  steam. 
But  in  case  there  are  vines,  or  other  plants,  growing  in  the  hot-house, 
this  last  operation  must  be  omitted. 

If  the  above  work  cannot  be  done  in  one  and  the  same  day,  the 
pine  plants  may  with  great  safety  be  set  in  a  dry  airy  place  for  a  day 
or  two,  provided  they  are  not  put  into  heaps,  which  would  greatly 
damage  them  in  a  short  time. 

The  mould  intended  for  the  pine  plants  at  the  first  potting,  should 
be  light  and  fine  ;  and  I  would  recommend  that  the  pots  be  small  in 
proportion  to  the  size  of  the  plant,  that  each  plant  may  be  what  gar- 
deners term  UNDERPOTTED  ;  they  will  strike  root  both  sooner  and 
better  than  if  put  into  larger  pots,  and  at  their  next  shifting  they 
will  go  into  proper  sized  pots  with  their  balls  and  roots  entire. 

After  the  pine  plants  are  replaced  in  the  hot-house,  it  will  be  pro- 
per to  shade  the  glasses  in  the  middle  of  the  day  whenever  the  wea- 
ther is  warm  and  clear.  The  house  should  be  constantly  kept  to  a 
great  degree  of  heat,  which  will  be  the  means  of  making  the  plants 
strike  sooner  and  stronger,  it  being  evident  that  they  cannot  draw 
themselves  weak  while  in  an  inactive  state :  however,  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  perceived  to  grow,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  them  by  de- 
grees a  greater  quantity  of  air. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  roots  of  the  plants  from 
being  injured  by  an  over-heat  of  the  tan,  which  may  be  done  by 
raising  the  pots  in  case  the  tan  should  heat  violently. 

OTHER  INSECTS  FOUND  IN  HOT-HOUSES,  WITH  THE  METHODS  OF  DE- 
STROYING THEM. 

Besides  the  different  species  of  insects  which  are  found  so  pernicious 
to  the  pine-apple  plants,  there  are  other  kinds  that  infest  most  stoves^ 
which  frequently  prove  very  troublesome ;  and  although  they  are  not 
injurious  to  the  pine-apple,  are  yet  very  prejudicial  to  most  other 
plants  kept  there,  either  for  use  or  ornament. 

1.  THE  APHIS.     This  insect  is  of  the  order  HEMIPTERA.     Cha- 
racters :  Rostrum  bent  inwards.     Antennae,  setaceous  and  longer  than 
the  thorax.     Wings,  four  on  the  males;  females  none.     Feet  six. 
They  have  generally  two  little  horns  or  hairs  placed  on  the  hinder 
part  of  their  abdomen. 

Roses  and  various  other  plants  are  very  subject  to  be  overrun  with 
these  insects,  and  if  no  means  are  used  to  extirpate  them,  they  will 
in  a  short  time  take  such  entire  possession  of  the  plants,  that  every 
part  of  the  young  wood  will  appear  to  be  covered  with  them.  They 
are  commonly  called  lice.  Many  kinds  of  flowers  and  exotic  plants 
which  are  kept  in  stoves  are  very  subject  to  be  annoyed  with  them. 

These  are  easily  destroyed  three  ways.  1.  By  fumigating  the 
house  with  tobacco.  2.  By  dusting  the  infected  plants  with  fine 
snuff  or  tobacco  dust.  3.  By  a  decoction  or  infusion  of  tobacco. 

2.  The  ACARUS,  commonly  called  the  Red  Spider.     This  is  of 


182  THE  HOT-HOTTSE.  [FEB. 

the  order  APTERA.  Characters:  Eyes  placed  on  the  sides  of  the 
head,  remote  from  one  another.  Mouth  or  proboscis  formed  by  a 
small  pointed  rostrum  inclosed  in  a  sheath.  Antennae  shorter  than 
the  proboscis.  Feet  eight ;  they  are  oviparous. 

This  is  a  pest  to  almost  every  kind  of  plants,  for  this  insect  is  not 
only  pernicious  to  most  plants  kept  under  glass  but  also  to  many 
growing  in  the  open  air. 

In  hot  dry  weather  the  increase  of  these  insects  is  exceedingly 
rapid,  and  when  they  become  numerous  they,  by  various  means, 
commit  great  havoc  on  plants;  for  this  insect  with  its  proboscis 
perpetually  wounds  the  fine  or  capillary  vessels  of  plants  and  extracts 
their  nutritious  juices.  It  also  works  a  web  about  the  leaves  and 
over  the  tender  buds  and  tops  of  the  plants  in  such  a  manner  as 
nearly  to  suffocate  them  and  prevent  their  vegetation. 

This  insect  does  not  seem  to  be  affected  by  fumigation  made  with 
any  ingredients  hitherto  discovered,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  ap- 
terous insects,  or  those  without  wings,  are  not  so  much  affected  by 
fumigation  as  the  winged  tribe. 

However,  the  mixtures  recommended  for  destroying  the  insects  on 
the  pine-apple  will  have  the  same  effect  on  this.  Plants  greatly  in- 
fested, and  growing  in  pots,  when  their  tops  are  not  very  large,  may 
with  great  facility  be  dipped  in  a  convenient  vessel  filled  with  those 
mixtures.  The  top  of  the  plant  need  only  remain  a  short  time 
therein,  and  it  should  then  be  placed  in  a  shady  place  to  prevent  its 
drying  too  rapidly. 

These  insects  very  frequently  reside  on  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves,  and,  when  very  numerous,  they  work  so  thick  a  web  thereon 
that  it  sometimes  prevents  the  mixture  from  entering  into  certain 
hollow  parts  of  the  leaves,  by  which  means  a  few  escape  unhurt,  in 
which  case  it  will  be  proper  for  the  plants  to  undergo  the  same  ope- 
ration the  succeeding  afternoon,  which  will  most  assuredly  destroy 
all  that  escaped  before. 

Large  or  climbing  plants,  when  their  leaves  are  large,  as,  for  in- 
stance, the  vine,  must  be  dressed  with  the  mixture  by  means  of  a 
sponge.  This  has  the  appearance  of  a  tedious  operation ;  but  in  a 
dark  day,  when  the  house  is  not  very  warm,  a  person  will  make  con- 
siderable progress  therein  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours. 

The  keeping  of  the  house  in  a  moist  state  by  watering  the  walks 
and  flues  late  in  the  evening,  and  the  frequent  sprinkling  of  the 
plants  with  water,  contributes  to  retard  the  progress  of  these  insects, 
which  are  very  impatient  of  much  moisture.  This  reduces  them  'to 
a  temporary  state  of  inaction,  but  will  not  destroy  them.* 

3.  TheTHRiPS.  Order  HEMIPTERA.  Characters:  Rostrum  small 
and  obscure ;  antennae  as  long  as  the  thorax ;  body  slender,  of  an 
equal  thickness  in  its  whole  length ;  abdomen  reflexible,  being  gene- 
rally bent  upwards;  wings  four,  incumbent  on  the  back  of  the  insect, 

*  If  a  small  portion  of  sulphur  be  applied  on  the  cooler  ends  of  the 
flues,  or  any  part  of  the  hot  water  pipes,  it  will  effectually  destroy  Red 
Spider.  Care  should  be  used  that  it  does  not  ignite,  or  the  plants  will 
also  be  severely  injured. 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  183 

D arrow  in  proportion  to  their  length,  and  cross  one  another  at  some 
distance  from  their  base;  feet  six,  the  tarsus  of  each  foot  having 
only  two  articulations. 

This  is  also  a  very  pernicious  species  of  insect,  and  is  very  com- 
mon in  hot-houses,  as  well  as  upon  plants  in  the  open  air ;  it  is  very 
minute,  so  much  so  as  to  be  scarcely  perceptible,  generally  concealing 
itself  along  the  veins  of  the  leaves,  from  whence  it  skips  with  great 
agility  on  being  touched.  It  is  a  great  enemy  to  the  vine  while  the 
leaves  are  young  and  tender,  whether  they  grow  in  the  open  air  or 
under  glass.  The  Cape  jasmine,  as  well  as  many  other  plants,  often 
falls  a  prey  to  these  minute  insects. 

These  may  be  destroyed  by  the  same  methods  as  the  Aphis. 

4.  The  ONISCUS,  or  Wood-louse.     This  belongs  to  the  order  AP- 
TERA.     Characters:  Antennae  setaceous,  and  bent-mouth,  furnished 
with  two  palpi;  head  intimately  joined  with  the  thorax;  body  oval 
form,  composed  of  several  crustaceous  plates ;  feet  fourteen.     They 
change  their  skin  like  many  other  apterous  insects. 

These  are  very  common  in  the  bark-pits,  as  well  as  in  woods, 
houses,  gardens,  &c.,  but  are  seldom  destructive  except  to  young 
seedling  plants  on  their  first  appearance  above  ground.  This,  how- 
ever, may  be  prevented  by  dusting  the  plants,  whilst  in  that  state, 
with  fine  snuff  or  tobacco  dust. 

5.  The  FORMICA,  or  Ant.     This  insect  is  so  universally  known  as 
to  render  a  description  unnecessary. 

These  are  often  exceedingly  numerous  in  hot-houses,  and  especially 
where  the  Aphides  and  Coccus  hesperidum  abound,  for  there  is  a 
sweet  glutinous  matter  which  issues  from  these  insects  (being  either 
their  excrements  or  produced  by  them  from  some  other  cause)  that 
seems  to  be  the  principal  incitement  that  draws  the  ant  thither. 

The  ant  may  be  destroyed  with  great  facility  by  setting  pots  con- 
taining honey  and  water  in  the  same  manner  as  is  practised  for 
catching  wasps,  &c. 

6.  The  Coccus  HESPERIDUM,  or  Brown  Turtle  Insect,  already  de- 
scribed, is  not  only  an  enemy  to  the  pine-apple  plant  but  also  to 
many  others  both  in  the  hot-house  and  green-house,  therefore  I  am 
induced  to  take  notice  of  it  again. 

This  insect  may  be  destroyed  whilst  young  by  fumigation,  there- 
fore, where  that  operation  is  frequent,  they  are  rarely  to  be  met  with. 

OP  FUMIGATING  THE  HOUSE. 

The  house  may  be  fumigated  either  by  means  of  bellows  invented 
for  that  purpose  or  by  that  of  a  smoking-pot.  The  most  eligible 
seasons  for  this  business  are  the  spring  and  autumn,  when,  if  neces- 
sity requires,  it  should  be  repeated  every  eight  or  ten  days,  till  the 
proper  effect  is  produced ;  but  it  may  be  done  at  any  period,  except 
when  there  are  ripe  fruit  in  the  house,  as  then  it  would  give  them  a 
smoky  flavor. 

Fumigation  is  best  performed  late  in  an  afternoon  or  evening,  and 
proves  most  efficacious  whan  the  weather  is  moist  and  calm ;  for  the 
smoke  is  retained  much  longer  in  the  house  when  the  air  is  still  and 


184  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

the  cavities  of  the  roof,  particularly  those  between  the  squares  of 
glass,  filled  with  moisture. 

The  Aphides  may  be  destroyed  with  a  gentle  fumigation ;  but  the 
Thrips  and  Coccus  hesperidum  require  a  smoke  so  strong,  that  a 
person  cannot  distinguish  an  object  farther  than  at  the  distance  of 
five  feet. 

When  a  hot-house  is  greatly  infested  either  with  the  Aphides  or 
Thrips,  the  fumigations  should  be  repeated  every  third  or  fourth 
night,  for  three  or  four  times  successively.  The  reason  and  neces- 
sity of  these  repetitions  proceed  from  a  probability  that  th"e  smoke 
cannot  affect  the  insect  in  the  egg,  and  perhaps  it  may  not  have  suf- 
ficient power  over  them  in  other  of  their  states ;  therefore  a  fresh 
brood  may  naturally  be  expected  in  a  few  days. 

CARE  OF  THE  PINES. 

Many  of  the  pine  plants  will  now  appear  set  for  fruiting,  which 
may  be  distinguished  by  the  short  leaves  in  their  centres;  from  that 
time  they  should  be  moderately  watered  and  the  house  kept  pretty 
warm ;  for  when  plants  are  kept  cold  at  the  time  of  forming  their 
fruit,  it  generally  causes  many  of  them  to  be  crooked,  imperfect  and 
misshapen.  Therefore,  under  such  circumstances,  never  let  the  heat 
fall  lower  than  55°  of  Fahrenheit,  nor  rise  higher,  by  fire-heat,  than 
62°;  a  little  air  should,  however,  be  admitted  whenever  the  weather 
permits,  and  especially  on  sunny,  warm  days,  when  the  heat  rises  to 
above  seventy  degrees.  But  in  no  case,  nor  under  any  circumstances, 
let  the  heat  of  the  house  fall  below  52°,  if  possible. 

As  some  persons  may  be  furnished  with  Reaumur's  and  not  with 
Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  it  may  be  of  use  to  give  a  comparative 
table  of  their  scales,  as  well  as  the  rules  by  which  one  can  be  con- 
verted into  the  other;  observing  that  32°  of  the  latter,  being  the 
freezing  point,  is  equal  to  0  (or  zero)  of  the  former. 

Reaumur's.        Fahrenheit's.  Reaumur's.  Fahrenheit's. 

Degrees  16  68  Degrees  33  106.2 

15  65.8  32  104 

14  63.5  31  101.7 

13  61.2  30  99.5 

12  59  29  97,2 

11  56.8  28  95 

10  54.8  27  92.7 

9  52.5  26  90.5 

8  50  25  88.2 

7  47.7  24  86 

6  45.5  23  83.8 

5  43.3  22  81.5 

4  41  21  79.2 

3  38.6  20  77 

2  36.5  19  74.7 

1  34.2  18  72.5 

0  32  17  70.3 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  185 

To  convert  the  degrees  of  Reaumur  into  those  of  Fahrenheit : 
multiply  the  degrees  of  Reaumur  by  9,  and  divide  the  product  by 
4 ;  to  the  quotient  add  82,  and  the  amount  will  be  those  of  Fahren- 
heit. 

To  convert  the  degrees  of  Fahrenheit  into  those  of  Reaumur  :  sub- 
tract 32  from  the  degrees  of  Fahrenheit;  multiply  the  remainder 
by  4 ;  divide  the  product  by  9,  and  the  quotient  will  be  those  of 
Reaumur. 

Your  fires  must  be  continued  every  evening  and  night,  being  care- 
ful in  very  severe  weather  to  keep  them  burning,  and  sufficiently 
supplied  with  fuel  till  so  late  a  period  that  there  can  be  no  danger 
of  the  house  becoming  cold  before  morning.  Indeed,  unless  your 
house  is  well  constructed,  there  may  be  some  severe  weather  in  which 
it  would  be  necessary  to  keep  up  the  fires  all  night.  There  have 
been  instances  of  careless  persons  intrusted  with  this  work,  who,  in 
order  to  get  to  bed  at  an  early  hour,  or  to  some  idle  frolic,  have  put 
down  large  and  violent  fires,  which  never  fail  to  do  injury  to  the 
plants,  and  sometimes  to  burst  the  flues ;  this  practice  is  to  be  care- 
fully avoided,  as  a  moderate  and  steady  heat  is  what  always  will 
insure  the  best  success. 

The  fires  are  to  be  renewed  very  early  in  the  morning,  and  con- 
tinued until  the  heat  of  the  sun  is  sufficient  to  promote  a  comforting 
warmth  in  the  house ;  and  in  very  cold  and  dark  weather,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  them  burning  all  day. 

It  is  very  advisable,  and  indeed  indispensable,  for  the  health  of 
the  plants,  to  sprinkle  the  flues  and  floor  occasionally  with  water,  in 
order  to  restore  the  parched  air  of  the  house  to  its  atmospheric 
quality ;  this  will  not  only  render  great  service  to  the  plants,  but 
tend  to  weaken  the  power  of  destructive  insects ;  for  these  do  not 
like  a  moist  air,  manifested  by  their  greater  increase  in  dry  stoves, 
than  in  others. 

A  proper  degree  of  heat  must  now  be  preserved  in  the  bark-bed, 
for  nothing  can  contribute  so  much  to  the  free  growth  of  the  young 
fruit  as  a  brisk  bottom-heat;  if  the  roots  have  not  this  advantage,  it 
is  impossible  to  make  the  fruits  swell  to  any  tolerable  size. 

Therefore,  wnere  the  bark-bed  was  not  stirred  up  the  former 
month,  to  renew  the  fermentation,  and  revive  the  declined  heat,  it 
should  now  be  done,  for  the  heat  will  consequently  now  begin  to  be 
very  faint,  and  by  stirring  up  the  bark  almost  to  the  bottom,  it  will 
bring  on  a  fresh  fermentation  therein;  by  which  means  the  bed  will 
again  recover  a  lively  growing  heat,  the  good  effect  of  which  will 
soon  appear  both  in  the  plants  and  fruit,  provided  it  be  done  in  due 
time ;  but  if  the  heat  is  greatly  decreased,  and  the  bark  decayed,  you 
may  augment  it  at  the  same  time  with  about  one-third  or  fourth  part 
of  new  tan,  otherwise  defer  it  till  next  month,  which  see. 

However,  where  the  work  of  forking  up  the  bark-bed  appears 
necessary  at  this  time,  agreeable  to  the  observations  above  men- 
tioned, it  should,  if  possible,  be  done  in  the  first  week  in  the  month ; 
for  if  it  is  delayed  much  longer,  the  plants  and  fruit  will  certainly, 
for  want  of  a  due  proportion  of  heat,  be  much  checked  in  their  growth. 
Observe,  in  the  first  place,  to  take  all  the  pots  out  of  the  bed ;  then 


186  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

begin  at  one  end,  and  open  a  kind  of  trench,  by  taking  out  some  of 
the  bark  and  carrying  it  to  the  other;  this  done,  begin  at  said  trench, 
and  with  a  fork,  dig  and  work  up  the  bark  quite  to  the  bottom,  taking 
care  to  break  the  cakes  or  lumps ;  mix  all  the  parts  well  together, 
and  fill  up  at  last  with  that  taken  out  of  the  first  opening.  Having 
finished,  let  the  top  be  made  level,  and  immediately  plunge  the  pots 
again  to  their  rims  as  before.  This  work  is  so  very  necessary  that 
it  should  not  on  any  consideration  be  omitted  at  the  time  above  men- 
tioned ',  that  is  to  say,  if  the  bark  has  much  declined  in  its  heat. 

The  bed  being  thus  treated,  it  will  soon  renew  its  heat,  and  retain 
the  same  well  for  six  weeks  or  thereabouts. 

At  the  expiration  of  that  period,  or  some  time  in  March  or  begin- 
ning of  April,  the  bark  will  require  to  be  stirred  up  again,  and  re- 
freshed with  about  one-third,  or  at  least  one-fourth  part  of  new  tan ; 
after  this  it  will  retain  a  proper  degree  of  heat  till  the  fruit  is  ripe. 
(See  March  and  April.) 

The  bark-bed  wherein  the  succession  pine-plants  are  plunged,  should 
also  be  examined  now  with  good  attention ;  and  if  the  heat  is  found 
to  be  much  decreased,  the  bed  should  be  treated  in  the  manner  above 
directed. 


WATERING  THE  PINES. 

The  fruiting  pine-apple  plants  should  now  have  moderate  refresh- 
ments of  water,  provided  there  be  a  good  heat  in  the  bark-bed  :  and 
when  there  is  a  proper  degree  of  that  and  moderate  moisture  to- 
gether, it  will  make  the  young  fruit  swell  very  fast. 

But  in  watering  these  plants,  be  careful  to  give  it  moderately  at 
each  time.  The  rule  is  this :  let  the  earth  in  the  pots  which  contain 
the  plants,  be  kept  just  a  little  moist  in  a  middling  degree;  and  if 
this  is  observed,  the  plants  and  fruit  will  thrive. 

The  succession  pine-plants,  that  is,  those  which  are  to  fruit  next 
year,  must  also  be  refreshed  now  and  then  with  water ;  in  watering 
these,  let  the  same  rule  be  observed  as  just  mentioned  above. 

Remember  also  to  give  water  at  times  to  the  younger  succession 
pines,  consisting  of  the  last  year's  crowns  and  suckers. 

In  watering  the  pine-plants  in  general,  you  should  still  be  cautious 
to  let  none  of  it,  or  but  as  little  as  possible,  fall  into  the  centre  of 
the  plants,  where,  being  apt  to  lodge,  it  would  prove  detrimental,  in 
some  degree,  to  these  exotics  at  this  season. 


OP  THE  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  PLANTS  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

In  some  hot-houses  there  are  kept  many  other  sorts  of  curious  ex- 
otics, besides  the  pines,  both  of  the  succulent  and  woody  kinds,  &c., 
and  as  they  are  all  tender,  being  from  the  hottest  parts  of  the  world, 
the  same  degrees  of  heat  as  recommended  for  the  pine,  will,  gene- 
rally speaking,  be  suitable  for  them ;  however,  there  are  some  of  those 
which,  to  do  them  the  greatest  possible  justice,  require  a  somewhat 
greater  degree  of  heat  than  the  pine-apple,  and  others  not  quite  so 
much;  therefore,  when  there  is  the  convenience  of  different  apart- 


FEB.}  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  187 

w 

ments  in  a  long  range  of  hot-houses,  all  may  be  suited  according  to 
their  respective  necessities. 

Let  it  be  observed,  that  all  tender  plants  which  are  kept  in  pots, 
the  succulent  tribe  excepted,  thrive  much  better  when  plunged  in 
the  bark-bed;  but  the  tallest  growing  kinds  must  be  planted  in  a 
border  of  suitable  earth,  near  the  back  wall,  to  give  them  the  greater 
scope  for  extending  their  heads. 

All  these  kinds  of  plants  should  be  kept  remarkably  clean  from 
dust,  or  any  sort  of  filth  that  may  gather  upon  their  stems,  shoots, 
or  leaves ;  and  such  ought  always  to  be  washed  off  as  soon  as  it  ap- 
pears. There  is  nothing  more  necessary  than  cleanliness  to  preserve 
the  health  of  plants ;  and  where  foulness  is  permitted  upon  any  of 
them,  it  will  not  only  close  up  those  small  pores  which  are  so  neces- 
sary to  the  growth  of  all  vegetables,  but  will  also  render  the  whole 
plant  unhealthy,  which  seldom  fails  to  invite  insects,  and  to  increase 
them  prodigiously  in  the  house. 

These  plants  must  also  be  kept  very  free  from  decayed  leaves  ;  that 
is,  when  any  such  appear,  let  them  be  immediately  taken  off. 

Water  should  also  be  given  to  all  these  plants  at  times  ;  some  will 
require  but  very  little  and  seldom,  and  others  will  need  it  pretty 
often.  Therefore,  let  good  care  be  taken  that  every  plant,  accord- 
ing to  its  nature,  be  properly  supplied  with  that  article  ;  but  be  sure 
never  to  give  any  sort  too  much  at  a  time ;  and  in  giving  it  always 
make  a  distinction  between  the  succulent,  the  herbaceous,  and  the 
woody  kinds. 

The  latter  will  need  water  oftener,  and  more  at  a  time,  than  either 
of  the  former ;  for  some  of  those  require  very  little  moisture  about 
their  roots,  and  too  much  would  rot  the  plants. 

Let  the  woody  kinds  in  general  be  moderately  watered  not  less 
than  once  or  twice  a  week ;  and  it  will  be  serviceable  to  sprinkle  wa- 
ter sometimes  all  over  the  head  or  branches  of  these  plants,  espe- 
cially the  coffee  tree,  the  pimento,  or  allspice,  and  all  the  tender 
Mimosas. 

But  the  succulent  kinds,  such  as  the  cactuses,  mesembryanthe- 
mums,  aloes,  Euphorbias  and  the  like,  must  not  be  watered  oftener 
than  once  a  week. 

In  watering  these  kinds  let  care  be  taken  to  give  but  little  at  each 
time,  just  sufficient  to  reach  the  bottom  roots. 

It  will  be  an  advantage  to  all  these  tender  plants,  both  of  the 
woody,  succulent,  and  other  kinds,  when  the  surface  earth  in  the 
pots  casually  crusts  or  binds,  to  stir  and  loosen  it  lightly  a  small 
depth. 

ADMIT  AIR. 

Fresh  air  should  now  be  admitted  to  the  pines  and  other  plants  in 
the  hot-house,  at  all  times  when  the  weather  will  permit. 

But  this,  however,  must  only  be  done  at  this  season,  when  the  sun 
shines  warm,  and  the  air  is  quite  calm  and  clear ;  then  it  will  be  pro- 
per to  slide  some  of  the  glasses  open  a  little  way,  in  the  warmest 
time  of  the  day,  particularly  the  roof-lights,  shutting  all  close  if  the 


188  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

*• 

weather  changes  cold  and  cloudy,  and  always  in  proper  time  in  the 
afternoon. 

The  best  time  of  the  day  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air,  is  from 
about  twelve  to  one,  two,  or  three  o'clock ;  but  for  the  time  of  open- 
ing or  shutting  the  glasses,  let  the  weather  be  the  guide. 

OF  KIDNEY-BEANS  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Now  plant  some  more  kidney-beans  of  the  early  white,  cream- 
colored,  yellow,  or  speckled  dwarfs,  &c.,  in  pots  or  boxes,  and  place 
them  in  the  hot-house  to  succeed  those  planted  last  month;  or  if  none 
was  then  planted,  this  is  a  very  successful  time,  superior  to  the  former 
month,  for  planting  a  good  hot-house  crop,  and  managed  as  directed 
in  January,  page  111. 

Do  not  forget  to  refresh  with  water  those  kidney-beans  which  were 
planted  last  month ;  they  will  require  it  two  or  three  times  a  week  : 
give  also  necessary  waterings  to  the  young  beans  advancing  for  suc- 
cessive crops. 

OF  BLOWING  ROSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  EARLY. 

You  may  now,  in  the  beginning  of  this  month,  set  pots  of  roses 
and  honeysuckles,  &c.,  in  the  hot-house }  or  pots  of  bulbous  roots, 
carnations,  pinks,  and  double  sweet-williams,  or  of  any  other  desirable 
flowering  plants,  either  of  the  shrub  or  herbaceous  kinds,  which  you 
desire,  by  way  of  curiosity,  to  bring  to  an  early  bloom,  supplying 
them,  when  in  growth,  with  plenty  of  water. 

Likewise,  about  the  middle  and  end  of  the  month,  you  may  intro- 
duce more  of  the  same  sort  of  flowering-plants  to  produce  flowers  in 
regular  succession. 

You  may  also  introduce  pots  sown  with  seeds  of  any  desirable 
annuals,  of  moderate  growth,  to  flower  early,  such  as  mignonette, 
balsams,  ten  weeks  stock,  &c.  &c. 

OF  CUCUMBERS  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Where  it  is  desired  to  raise  early  cucumbers  in  the  hot-house, 
some  seed  may  be  now  sown  as  directed  last  month,  or  young  plants 
planted  therein  from  any  common  hot-bed.  (See  Hot-house  for 
January.) 

EARLY  STRAWBERRIES. 

You  may  now  introduce  into  the  hot-house,  pots  of  the  scarlet  and 
alpine  strawberries,  either  to  succeed  those  of  last  month,  or  as  a 
first  introduction.  Let  them  be  two  years'  old  bearing  plants ;  place 
them  near  the  glasses,  or  plunge  them  in  the  bark-bed  to  forward 
them  earlier,  giving  proper  supplies  of  water. 

If  some  fresh  plants  are  taken  into  the  hot-house  every  three 
weeks,  you  may  obtain  a  constant  supply  of  early  fruit  till  those  in 
the  open  ground  ripen. 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  189 

Or  pots  of  strawberry  plants  kept  in  moderate  dung  hot-beds  to 
forward  them,  may  be  removed  in  successive  order  into  the  hot-house; 
they  will  produce  a  supply  of  early  fruit  in  regular  succession. 


M  A  E  C  H . 

THE   KITCHEN   GARDEN. 

THE  weather  in  this  month,  both  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States, 
is  very  unsettled;  sometimes  it  proves  dry  and  frosty,  sometimes 
tolerably  warm  and  comfortable,  at  other  times  cold  ana  wet,  with 
storms  of  strong  winds,  hail,  snow  and  rain;  which  make  a  diligent 
attendance  on  the  hot-beds  absolutely  necessary;  otherwise,  they  often 
miscarry,  and  all  the  preceding  trouble  and  expense  are  lost. 

Let  me  here  observe,  that  snow  ought  never  to  be  suffered  to  re- 
main but  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  either  on  the  hot-bed  lights, 
covers,  or  about  the  beds ;  for  the  cold  produced  thereby,  often  pene- 
trates through  a  slight  covering,  especially  if  there  is  not  a  strong 
bottom  heat,  and  produces  a  kind  of  hoar-frost  in  the  inside  of  the 
frame,  which  seldom  fails  to  do  considerable  injury ;  and  likewise, 
when  suffered  to  lodge  round  the  beds,  it  causes  a  sudden  decline  of 
the  heat. 

CARE  Or  EARLY  CUCUMBERS  AND  MELONS. 

Examine  the  state  of  the  cucumber  and  melon  hot-beds,  and  see  if 
they  are  of  a  proper  degree  of  heat,  so  as  to  preserve  the  plants  in  a 
state  of  free  growth. 

You  must  let  the  heat  be  lively,  but  moderate,  by  which  means 
the  ridged-out  plants  of  good  growth  will  show  fruit  plentifully,  and 
these  will  swell  freely  and  grow  to  a  handsome  size. 

If  you  find  the  heat  declined,  apply  a  lining  of  fresh  horse-dung, 
as  directed  in  January,  page  25,  to  which  I  refer  you  for  general  in- 
structions on  this  subject. 

Let  the  plants  have  fresh  air  every  day,  by  raising  the  upper  end 
of  the  glasses  from  about  half  an  inch  to  one  or  two  inches  in  height, 
in  proportion  to  the  heat  of  the  bed  and  warmness  of  the  weather  ; 
always  more  freely  in  sunny,  calm,  mild  days,  than  when  cloudy  or 
a  sharp  external  air;  and  when  the  weather  changes  colder,  diminish 
the  admission  of  air  or  shut  down  the  glasses  ;  and  always  shut  close 
in  proper  time  towards  evening,  about  three  or-  four  o'clock,  &c.,  ac- 
cording to  the  temperature  of  the  weather. 

Refresh  them  now  and  then  with  water ;  let  this  be  given  very 
moderately,  and  in  a  mild  sunny  day ;  the  best  time  for  doing  this  is 
from  ten  to  two  o'clock. 

Cover  the  glasses  with  mats  every  afternoon  as  soon  as  the  sun  is 


190  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

off  them  ;  or,  if  a  dark  day,  and  the  weather  is  severe,  at  such  period 
as  you  may  think  necessary,  according  to  the  degree  of  heat  or  cold 
that  may  be  prevalent  at  the  time ;  and  uncover  in  the  morning,  if  a 
sunny  day,  so  soon  as  it  shines  on  the  beds,  or,  if  otherwise,  as  early 
as  may  be  consistent  with  the  safety  of  the  plants ;  for  their  being 
too  much  debarred  from  the  light,  causes  them  to  become  discolored 
and  weakly. 

As  the  early  plants  raised  last  month  will  have  now  advanced  con- 
siderably into  fruitful  runners,  and  show  fruit  abundantly,  especially 
cucumbers,  let  the  runners  or  vines  be  trained  out  regularly  along 
the  surface  of  the  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  peg  them  down  neatly 
with  small  hooked  sticks.  At  this  early  season  it  will  be  of  much 
utility  to  impregnate  the  young  fruit  of  cucumbers  with  the  farina  of 
male  blossoms.  The  flowers  of  cucumbers  and  melons  are  male  and 
female,  separate  on  the  same  plant,  and  the  females  produce  the 
fruit;  the* males  are  often  erroneously  called  false  blossoms,  and 
many  persons  in  consequence  of  that  notion  pull  them  off;  but  they 
are  so  far  from  being  false  blossoms,  that  they  are  by  nature  designed 
to  impregnate  the  female  flowers  to  render  them  fruitful;  for  the 
antheraj  in  the  centre  of  the  male  blossom  being  furnished  with  a 
fine  powder,  which  being  dispersed  on  the  stigma  in  the  centre  of  the 
female,  the  fecundation  is  effected,  and  the  fruit  in  a  day  or  two  after 
will  begin  to  swell,  and  which  in  cucumbers  will  generally,  in  about 
a  fortnight,  or  within  a  few  days  under  or  over,  according  to  the 
state  or  growth  of  the  plants,  be  arrived  to  a  proper  size  for  cutting 
or  gathering  for  the  table,  in  young  green  fruit  six  to  twelve  inches 
long  or  more;  so  that  without  the  assistance  of  the  male  blossom,  the 
females  having  the  embryo  fruit  at  their  base  wither  and  decay,  and 
the  infant  fruit  turns  yellow  and  drops  off. 

Therefore  it  is  of  importance  to  preserve  a  sufficiency  of  the  male 
flowers,  for  the  purpose  of  impregnating  the  females ;  and  in  the  early 
culture  of  cucumbers,  &c.,  it  is  eligible  to  carry  some  of  the  males  to 
the  female  flowers ;  observing  for  this  purpose  to  detach  some  new 
expanded  male  blossoms  with  the  stalk  to  each,  and  holding  the  stalk 
between  the  finger  and  thumb,  and  pulling  off  the  petal  or  flower 
leaf  surrounding  the  male  organ,  then  with  the  remaining  antherae 
or  central  part,  touch  the  stigma  in  the  centre  of  the  female,  twirling 
it  about  so  as  some  of  the  farina  or  male  powder  of  the  anthene  may 
adhere  thereto,  a  little  of  which  being  sufficient  to  effect  the  im- 
pregnation. 

This  operation  is  essentially  necessary  to  be  performed  by  hand, 
to  early  plants  that  are  shut  up  in  frames,  before  the  lights  or  glasses 
can  be  admitted  sufficiently  open  to  give  free  access  to  a  large  cur- 
rent of  air,  or  flying  insects,  such  as  bees,  &c.,  all  of  which  assist 
in  conveying  the  farina  of  the  male  blossoms  to  the  females,  as  is 
evident  in  plants  exposed  to  the  open  air. 

The  above  operation  of  fecundating,  or,  as  the  gardeners  term  it, 
setting  the  fruit,  should  be  performed  the  same  day  the  flowers  open 
and  are  fully  expanded,  which  is  the  most  essential  period  of  their 
generative  effect. 

The  female  or  fruit-bearing  flowers  are  readily  distinguished  at 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  191 

sight  from  the  males;  the  former  having  always  the  embryo  fruit 
placed  immediately  under  the  base  of  the  flower;  or  in  other  words, 
the  embryo  fruit  issues  forth  with  the  flower-bud  on  its  top,  visible 
from  its  first  eruption  from  the  stem  of  the  plant;  but  the  male 
blossom  is  placed  immediately  on  the  top  of  its  footstalk  without 
any  appearance  of  fruit  under  its  base. 

The  same  operation  of  impregnating  or  setting  the  fruit,  as  above, 
may  also  be  practised  on  melons,  which  will  have  the  same  effect  as 
in  cucumbers ;  but  as  melons  are  only  eatable  when  ripe,  it  will  be 
five  or  six  weeks  longer  before  they  attain  full  size  and  mature  ripe- 
ness. 


SOW  CUCUMBER  AND  MELON  SEED. 

Sow  in  the  above,  or  any  new  made  hot-beds,  the  seeds  of  cucum- 
bers and  melons,  at  the  beginning,  and  also  about  the  middle,  and 
towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  to  have  a  supply  of  young 
plants  in  readiness,  either  to  plant  into  new  beds,  or  to  supply  the 
place  of  such  plants  as  may  fail. 

The  sorts  of  cucumbers  are  the  early  Kenyon's  free-bearer,  Syon 
House,  and  Walker's  improved. 

But  the  Early  Short  Prickly  and  Long  Green  Prickly,  are  com- 
monly cultivated  for  the  early  and  general  crop,  the  short  prickly 
being  the  earliest,  and  are,  therefore,  often  sown  for  the  first  crop  in 
the  frames ;  but  the  Long  Green  Prickly  is1  the  best  to  sow  for  a  main 
crop,  either  for  the  hand-glasses,  or  in  the  natural  ground ;  it  being 
both  a  plentiful  bearer  in  long  continuance,  and  the  fruit  attains  the 
most  handsome  regular  growth,  six  or  eight  to  ten  or  twelve  inches 
in  length. 

MAKING  NEW  HOT-BEDS  TO  TRANSPLANT  CUCUMBERS,  ETC. 

Make  hot-beds  the  beginning  of  this  month  to  plant  the  cucumber 
or  melon  plants  upon,  which  were  sown  the  latter  end  of  January,  or 
any  time  in  February;  make  the  beds  very  substantial,  fully  three 
feet  and  a  half  or  four  feet  high,  having  the  dung  previously  pre- 
pared as  directed  in  January,  page  21,  which  will  prevent  a  violent 
heat  taking  place  after  its  being  made;  let  the  cucumber  or  melon 
plants  be  planted  therein,  and  managed  as  directed  in  that  month 
and  in  February. 

There  are  many  gardeners  and  others  who  cannot  conveniently 
procure  dung  to  begin  to  make  hot-beds  for  cucumbers  or  melons  at 
an  early  season.  Where  that  is  the  case,  it  is  not  too  late  to  begin 
now;  and  a  hot-bed  may  be  made  the  beginning  or  any  time  of  the 
month,  and  the  seeds  of  cucumbers  and  melons  sown  therein;  the 
cucumbers  from  this  sowing  will  be  fit  to  cut  towards  the  end  of 
April,  be  in  full  bearing  the  beginning  of  May,  and  will  continue 
fruiting  a  long  time.  The  melons  will  come  to  perfection  in  June 
and  July. 


192  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 


CUCUMBERS  AND  MELONS  FOR  BELL  OR  HAND-GLASSES. 

About  the  eighteenth  or  twentieth,  or  any  time  towards  the  end  of 
this  month,  is  the  time  to  begin  to  sow  the  cucumbers  and  melons 
which  are  to  be  planted  under  hand  or  bell-glasses. 

They  may  be  sown  in  any  of  the  cucumber  hot-beds  now  at  work ; 
or  if  not  convenient,  or  there  are  no  such  beds  made,  make  a  hot-bed 
for  that  purpose,  for  a  one,  two,  or  three  light  frame,  according  to 
the  quantity  of  plants  required;  sow  the  seed,  and  manage  the  beds 
as  directed  in  the  two  former  months.  The  plants  will  be  ready  for 
ridging  out  by  the  middle'  or  towards  the  end  of  next  month ;  the 
cucumbers  will  be  in  bearing  the  latter  end  of  May,  and  the  melons 
in  July. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Where  cauliflower  plants  were  raised  from  seeds  sown  last  month, 
they  should  as  soon  in  this  as  they  have  arrived  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  inches,  be  pricked  into  a  new  slight  hot-bed,  made  for 
that  purpose,  at  the  distance  of  three  inches  every  way,  and  managed 
as  directed  in  February,  page  132. 

By  pricking  out  the  plants  on  a  little  bottom  heat,  it  will  forward 
them  considerably,  and  by  thus  transplanting,  they  will  become 
strong  and  well  furnished  with  roots,  and  consequently  will  succeed 
much  better  when  planted  out  than  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed 
bed. 

The  autumn  sown  plants,  and  those  which  you  had  transplanted 
last  month,  from  the  January  sowing,  must  now  have  plenty  of  air, 
and  this  in  proportion  as  the  season  advances,  and  the  weather  grows 
warm,  in  order  to  harden  them  for  bearing  the  open  air,  when  planted 
out  where  intended  for  flowering,  which  cannot  be  done  with  safety 
in  the  middle  States  before  the  last  week  in  this  month,  or  r-ather 
the  first  in  April ;  nor  in  the  eastern  States  before  the  second  week 
or  middle  of  that  month,  unless  you  have  hand-glasses  to  cover  them, 
in  which  case  they  may  be  planted  out  any  time  that  the  ground  is 
in  good  condition,  after  the  middle  of  March. 

The  latter  method  I  would  recommend,  provided  the  plants  are 
large,  the  spring  early,  and  that  you  have  the  convenience  of  hand- 
glasses, but  not  otherwise. 

Theugh  at  this  early  period  the  ground  best  adapted  for  producing 
good  cauliflowers  is  not  always  in  a  proper  state  for  cultivation,  which 
ought  to  be  a  principal  consideration,  either  in  the  planting  or  sowing 
of  any  crops  whatever,  and  never  departed  from,  should  the  season 
prove  ever  so  late. 

Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown  the  beginning  of  this  month,  as 
directed  in  January,  page  29,  which,  if  well  attended  to,  and  judi- 
diciously  managed,  and  the  great  summer  heats  should  not  set  in  at 
an  early  period,  will  head  tolerably  well ;  but  if  these  circumstances 
do  not  follow,  a  great  number  of  them  will  not  flower  before  late  in 
autumn,  and  some  not  even  then ;  such  of  these  as  do  not  flower 
before  the  setting  in  of  the  winter  frosts,  are  to  be  treated  as  directed 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  193 

in  the  Kitchen  Garden  for  November,  by  which  treatment  they  will 
produce  tolerable  good  heads,  and  at  a  very  acceptable  period. 

You  must  be  very  particular  during  this  month,  especially  when 
the  weather  gets  warm,  to  give  your  cauliflower  plants  plenty  of  air, 
otherwise  they  will  draw  up  weakly,  and  be  good  for  nothing ;  but 
at  the  same  time,  do  not  let  them  be  chilled,  nor  their  vegetation 
checked,  by  exposing  them  too  much  in  cold  weather,  or  neglecting 
to  cover  them  carefully  at  night ;  expose  them  fully  to  the  air  every 
mild  and  warm  day,  but  not  when  the  wind  is  sharp  or  cutting,  and 
raise  the  glasses  behind  in  more  unfavorable  weather. 

On  the  judicious  treatment  given  to  these  plants  during  this  month 
depends,  in  a  great  measure,  their  future  success ;  therefore,  due  and 
constant  attention  should  be  paid  to  them,  agreeably  to  the  rules 
already  laid  down. 

As  the  beginning  or  early  part  of  next  month  will  be  the  princi- 
pal period  for  planting  out  cauliflowers  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
States,  I  am  induced  to  defer  the  instructions  for  performing  that 
part  of  the  business  till  April;  observing,  however,  that  in  every 
part  of  the  Union  it  should  be  done  as  early  in  spring  as  the  ground 
gets  warm  and  into  a  good  state  of  vegetation,  not  before;  for,  when 
that  is  not  the  case,  the  plants  very  frequently  get  chilled  and  stunted 
by  the  coldness  of  the  earth  and  air,  and  seldom  afterwards  produce 
good  heads. 

You  may  sow  some  cauliflower  seed  on  a  warm  border  towards 
the  latter  end  of  the  month,  to  produce  their  flowers  or  heads  in 
October,  &c. 

CABBAGE  PLANTS. 

During  the  early  part  of  this  month  the  cabbage  plants,  which  are 
in  a  considerable  state  of  forwardness,  must  be  well  inured  to  the 
open  air,  the  better  to  prepare  them  for  planting  out  as  soon  after 
the  middle  of  the  month  as  the  weather  will  permit.  Those  pro- 
duced from  later  sowings  in  hot-beds  will,  to  do  them  justice,  require 
the  same  management  as  directed  for  cauliflower  plants. 


PLANTING  AND  SOWING  CABBAGES. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  you  find  the  weather -sufficiently  favor- 
able, which,  in  the  middle  States,  is  generally  so  about  the  fifteenth 
or  twentieth,  transplant  cabbage  plants  of  all  kinds,  particularly  the 
early  sorts,  where  they  are  to  remain  for  heading;  this,  in  warm 
situations  and  dry  ground,  may  be  done  at  an  earlier  period,  accord- 
ing to  circumstances. 

Let  them  be  planted  in  good  ground  enriched  with  dung,  at  two 
feet  distance  for  the  early  York,  sugar-loaf,  and  other  early  kinds; 
but  the  large  late  cabbage  plants  should  be  set  a  yard  asunder. 

The  above  distances  are  to  be  understood  of  such  plants  as  are  to 
remain  to  grow  to  their  full  size;   but  such  of  the  forward  kinds  as 
are  to  be  cut  while  young,  may  be  planted  closer;  eighteen  inches 
will  be  sufficient. 
13 


19.4  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

Plant  out  also  a  general  crop  of  red  cabbage  plants,  to  head  in 
August,  &c.,  and  allow  them  three  feet  every  way,  plant  from  plant. 

Sow  seeds  of  every  kind  of  cabbage  which  you  wish  to  cultivate. 
These  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  about  the  middle  or  as  early 
in  the  month  as  the  weather  permits.  The  early  as  well  as  the  late 
kinds  should  be  sown  now,  in  order  to  have  a  regular  succession,  or 
as  substitutes  in  default  of  early  plants,  or  for  a  general  summer 
crop.  The  early  Wakefield,  early  York,  Battersea,  and  sugar-loaf, 
are  best  adapted  for  this  purpose.  The  last  kind,  though  not  quite 
so  early  as  the  others,  has  a  particular  advantage  over  them,  in  not 
being  liable  to  burst  so  soon  after  having  arrived  at  perfection,  and 
consequently  may  be  kept  a  long  time,  either  for  use  or  market. 

Sow  also  a  full  crop  of  the  large  flat  Dutch,  drum-head,  large 
English,  Savoy,  and  red  pickling  cabbages.  The  plants  from  this 
sowing  will  produce  larger  and  better  heads  than  if  sown  later. 

Should  the  season  prove  favorable,  by  which  you  can  get  these 
seeds  sown  early  in  the  month,  it  will  be  very  proper  to  sow  some 
more  of  each  kind,  about  the  end,  for  succession  plants. 

Some  people  never  think  of  planting  Savoys  till  late  in  spring. 
This  is  a  great  mistake,  for  the  early  sown  plants  will  always  pro- 
duce larger  and  better  cabbage-heads  than  the  late. 

In  sowing  the  different  sorts  of  cabbage-seeds,  never  let  them  be 
sown  under  the  shade  of  trees,  hedges,  very  high  fences  or  buildings, 
for  in  such  situations  the  plants  are  drawn  up  weak  and  long-shanked, 
and  are  more  liable  to  be  destroyed  by  vermin  than  in  open  ex- 
posures. 

SOWING  PEAS. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible  sow  a  full  crop  of  peas.  The 
kinds  most  proper  for  this  sowing  are  the  early-frame,  emperor,  and 
Charleton  hot-spurs.  Sow  also  at  the  same  time  some  of  the  Cham- 
pion of  England,  marrowfat,  dwarf,  or  blue  imperial  kinds.  These, 
or  any  of  the  late  sorts,  being  now  sown,  will  regularly  succeed  the 
early  crops. 

Sow  peas  from  this  forward  once  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  to 
keep  up  a  regular  supply  for  the  table  young  and  in  good  condition ; 
or  it  will  be  a  good  rule  when  the  plants  of  a  former  sowing  are  up 
to  sow  another  crop  of  the  same  sort  for  succession. 

All  the  sorts  of  peas,  except  those  which  are  intended  for  the  first 
or  early  crops,  which  may  be  sown  on  south  or  warm  borders,  should 
be  sowed  in  open  situations,  and  by  no  means  near  low  or  spreading 
trees. 

At  this  season,  and  from  henceforward,  let  the  early  kinds  be 
planted  in  drills  three  feet  and  a  half  asunder ;  the  larger  growing 
sorts  five  feet,  and  the  largest,  such  as  the  champion,  &c.,  six  feet, 
giving  them  rods  or  sticks  in  proportion  to  their  respective  growths, 
by  which  means  you  will  be  certain  of  abundant  crops. 

It  will  not  be  advisable  to  sow  any  of  the  above  kinds  while  the 
ground  is  tough  and  wet,  always  observing  to  have  your  ground  in 
good  working  condition  before  you  sow  these  or  any  other  crops; 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  195 

for,  if  otherwise,  they  cannot  receive  much  benefit,  but  may  con- 
siderable injury — observing  at  the  same  time  that  peas  do  not  thrive 
in  a  heavy  or  clay  soil. 

The  depth  of  covering  which  they  require  is  from  one  to  two 
inches,  according  as  the  ground  may  be  either  of  a  light  or  heavy 
nature,  or  in  a  dry  or  wet  state  at  the  time  of  sowing. 

EARTHING  AND  STICKING  PEAS. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  the  early  sown  peas  will  be 
advancing  in  growth,  and  must  have  earth  drawn  to  their  stems  as 
they  progress,  which  will  greatly  strengthen  them  and  encourage 
their  growth. 

As  to  sticking  peas,  always  be  careful  to  have  this  done  when  they 
are  about  four  inches  high ;  for,  if  they  fall  to  one  side  or  the  other, 
they  with  difficulty  can  recover  their  erect  posture ;  and  if  they  are 
double-sticked  the  better — that  is,  place  a  range  of  sticks  on  the 'one 
side,  all  in  a  regular  declining  manner,  and  another  on  the  other 
side  of  the  row  declining  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the  former,  by 
which  none  can  fall  on  either  side.  I  cannot  too  much  impress  the 
necessity  of  rodding  well,  for  on  this  in  great  measure  depends  the 
abundance  of  your  crops. 

PLANTING   THE   LARGE  WINDSOR  BEANS,  AND   OTHER  VARIETIES  OF 
THE  SAME  SPECIES. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible  plant  a  full  crop  of  Windsor 
beans,  and  also  of  any  of  the  other  varieties  which  you  esteem.  The 
Mazagan  and  Lisbon  are  the  earliest;  the  white-blossom  bean  is 
very  delicious,  and  boils  much  greener  than  any  other  kind ;  but  the 
green  Genoa  bears  the  heat  of  our  climates  better  than  either  of  the 
others,  and  therefore  is  the  most  suitable  for  late  crops.  The  long- 
podded  bean  is  very  good,  and  bears  well ;  but  the  Windsor,  Sand- 
wich, Toker,  and  broad  Spanish  kinds,  on  account  of  their  great  size 
and  sweetness,  are  more  esteemed  for  blanching  than  any  other.  The 
dwarf-cluster  bean  is  a  great  bearer,  never  grows  above  a  foot  or 
fourteen  inches  high,  and  may  be  planted  in  rows  either  in  beds  or 
borders,  the  rows  to  be  about  two  feet  asunder;  and  as  this  kind 
branches  out  considerably  from  the  root,  the  beans  must  be  planted 
in  single  rows,  and  six  inches  distant  from  one  another. 

I  have  again  to  remark  that  it  is  from  the  early  planted  of  these 
kinds  that  much  produce  may  be  expected,  for  when  overtaken  by  the 
summer  heat,  whilst  in  blossom,  these  drop  off  prematurely;  conse- 
quently the  crops  are  poor  and  scanty. 

Continue  planting  these  kinds  once  every  ten  days  till  the  end  of 
the  month  or  beginning  of  next ;  and  as  the  early  crops  advance, 
draw  some  earth  up  to  their  stems  as  directed  for  peas. 

When  beans  are  desired  at  as  early  a  period  as  possible,  you  may 
force  some  of  the  early  Mazagan  kind,  in  any  of  your  forcing  depart- 
ments, observing,  when  the  plants  are  in  full  blossom,  to  nip  off  their 


196 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


[MARCH 


tops,  which  will  cause  their  fruit  to  set  and  ripen  sooner  than'if  left 
to  take  their  natural  course. 

Or  you  may,  about  the  beginning  of  the  month,  plant  a  quantity 
of  them  close  together  in  a  hot-bed,  to  be  defended  with  a  frame  and 
glasses,  or  with  mats,  &c.,  and  when  thus  forwarded  for  two  or  three 
weeks,  plant  them  into  the  open  ground ;  observing  to  give  them 
plenty  of  air  whilst  in  the  hot-bed,  and  when  they  have  one  or  two 
inches  growth  therein,  to  plant  them  into  some  warm  border,  in  rows 
two  feet  and  a  half  or  a  yard  asunder. 

For  further  particulars,  and  the  method  of  planting  all  the  kinds, 
see  February. 


Fig.  20. 


COVERING   HALF-HARDY  PLANTS. 

For  covering  half-hardy  plants,  or  screening  from  dry  winds,  various 
means  are  employed.  In  France  a  basket  is  constructed,  of  two 
semi-cylinders,  constructed  in  the  mode  of  straw 
hives.  To  these  are  fixed  solid  feet  of  wood  to  drive 
into  the  ground.  If  it  is  necessary  to  shelter  one 
plant  from  east  or  northeast  winds,  one  cylinder  is 
sufficient ;  but  if  it  is  a  plant  which  you  are  forced 
to  protect,  is  delicate,*  and  requires  a  more  complete 
protection,  you  inclose  it  between  the  two  semi-cylin- 
ders, fixed  one  to  the  other  by  means  of  hooks  re- 
presented in  the  drawing.  A  lid  of  the  same  con- 
struction, furnished  at  its  edge  with  a  circle  of  wood- 
work, is  fitted,  when  necessary,  on  the  cylinder,  and 
thus,  perhaps,  offers  a  more  effectual  shelter  against 
the  severity  of  cold  winds  and  excessive  heat  than 
any  other.  These  sorts  of  shades  are  light  to  move, 
very  solid,  and  very  warm  ;  for,  letting  but  little  of 
the  exterior  air  penetrate,  they  preserve  at  night  the 
heat  which  accumulates  in  the  interior.  They  would 
also  guard  plants  well  from  the  sun,  and  thus  offer  a 
means  of  checking  the  natural  perspiration  of  green 
parts.  Probably  nothing  could  be  invented  more 
suitable  for  the  protection  of  young  plants,  like  the  magnolia  grandi- 
flora,  in  this  latitude,  where  the  frozen  sap  is  attacked  by  the  sun, 
and  the  leaves  in  young  specimens  annually  killed.  For  protecting 
the  stems  of  grafted  roses  from  the  summer  sun,  they  might  be  made 
of  basket  willows. 


SOWING  AND   TRANSPLANTING  LETTUCES. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  prepare  a  warm  south  border, 
and  sow  thereon,  very  thick,  some  of  the  early  Silesia  and  white 
Dutch  lettuces ;  in  order  to  have  it  fit  for  cutting,  with  other  small 
salading,  at  an  early  period,  and  to  succeed  such  as  you  have  forward- 
ed in  frames ;  let  the  ground  be  dry  and  light,  and  the  seed  either 
raked  in  or  covered  very  slightly. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  month,  if  the  weather  be  mild  and  set- 


MARCH]         THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  197 

tied,  you  may  sow  in  borders,  beds,  or  any  open  compartments  of 
ground,  different  sorts  of  lettuce  seed,  such  as  the  white,  green, 
spotted,  and  Egyptian  cos,  grand  admiral,  white  Silesia,  Indian  ten- 
nis-ball, New  Zealand,  Mogul,  white  and  brown  Dutch,  &c.,  these  are 
all  most  excellent  sorts  for  this  sowing,  where  variety  of  superior 
kinds  are  wanted.* 

Every  two  weeks  it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  other  successional 
crops,  so  as  to  have  a  regular  and  constant  supply  either  for  market 
or  family  use. 

The  different  sorts  should  generally  be  sown  separate,  and  in  dig- 
ging the  ground,  let  the  earth  be  well  pulverized.  Sow  the  seed  on 
the  surface,  and  rake  them  in  lightly,  taking  care  not  to  draw  the 
earth  in  heaps. 

Or  some  of  the  cos  kinds  particularly,  may  be  sown  thinly  among 
the  crops  of  carrots,  parsneps,  leeks,  &c. ;  some  for  transplanting, 
and  others  to  remain  for  full  growth. 

In  sowing  lettuce  it  is  of  much  importance  to  have  good  sorts,  and 
such  as  will  not  run  to  seed  before  they  attain  full  growth ;  these  are 
not  commonly  to  be  met  with,  and  are  worth  procuring. 

As  soon  in  this  month  as  the  weather  gets  mild  and  tolerably 
warm,  transplant  some  of  the  lettuce  plants  from  the  beds  or  borders, 
where  they  have  stood  all  winter,  provided  they  stand  too  close.  In 
doing  this,  .observe  to  draw  the  plants  out  regularly,  and  let  the 
strongest  remain  for  heading  at  about  ten  inches  distance ;  then 
loosen  the  surface  of  the  earth  between  them,  and  clear  away  all  de- 
cayed leaves  and  litter ;  after  which,  add  a  little  fresh  earth,  which 
will  give  the  plants  new  vigor,  and  considerably  enlarge  their  growth. 

Previously  to  planting  out  into  the  open  borders  any  plants  raised 
in  hot-beds  from  the  early  spring  sowings,  you  must  be  very  partic- 
ular to  inure  them  to  the  open  air,  so  that  when  transplanted,  they 
may  not  receive  a  great  check  by  too  sudden  a  transition. 

It  will  be  of  considerable  service  to  these  plants,  when  transplant- 
ed into  the  borders  at  this  season,  to  cover  them  at  night  with  mats 
or  other  light  coverings,  which  are  to  be  taken  off  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. 

Should  it  happen  that  you  have  no  lettuce  plants  in  a  state  of  for- 
wardness for  early  Salading,  some  may  be  now  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  to 
forward  for  that  purpose. 

RADISHES. 

Sow  more  seed  to  raise  a  supply  of  radishes  to  succeed  those  sown 
last  month. 

There  should  be  some  both  of  the  salmon,  olive  shaped,  and  short 
top  kinds,  sown  at  three  different  times  this  month ;  that  is,  at  the 
beginning,  middle,  and  latter  end,  by  which  means  there  will  be  a 
due  succession  of  young  radishes  for  the  table.  Let  this  seed  be 

*  White  curled  Silesia  is  one  of  the  very  best  for  all  purposes,  excepting 
the  winter.  It  stands  the  sun  without  being  scorched,  and  is  tender,  brit- 
tle, and  sweet  flavored. 


198  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

sown  now  in  an  open  compartment,  observing  the  same  method  as  in 
February,  page  137. 

Thin  the  early  crops  of  radishes  where  the  plants  stand  too  close ; 
pull  up  the  worst  and  leave  the  others  about  two  inches  apart ;  clear 
them  from  weeds  of  all  kinds,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth  thin 
them  by  degrees  by  drawing  them  for  the  table. 

In  dry  open  weather,  let  the  early  crops  in  frames,  *&c.,  be  mode- 
rately watered  at  intervals,  to  forward  them  in  a  free  swelling  state, 
as  well  as  to  render  them  mild  and  crisp  for  eating. 

A  thin  sprinkling  of  radish  seed  may  be  sown  among  other  gene- 
ral crops  at  this  season,  which  will  grow  freely,  and  being  detached, 
will  form  fine  large  crisp  roots. 

TURNIP-ROOTED  RADISHES. 

Now  sow  some  turnip-rooted  radish ;  there  are  two  sorts,  the  white 
and  the  red,  but  the  former  is  preferable  to  sow  for  the  general  sup- 
ply ;  it  grows  like  a  young  Dutch  turnip,  is  very  mild,  agreeable  to 
eat,  and  of  early  perfection. 

Let  the  seed  of  both  sorts  be  sown  separately  in  an  open  space  of 
light  ground,  and  rake  them  in  evenly. 

When  the  plants  have  the  first  central  rough  leaves  half  an  inch 
broad,  thin  them  to  about  two  inches  apart. 

SOWING  SPINAGE. 

Sow  spinage  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks  to  have  a  regular  sup- 
ply ,•  for  the  plants  of  one  sowing,  in  spring  and  summer,  will  not 
continue  fit  for  use  longer  than  that  time  before  they  run  to  seed. 
Let  the  seed  be  of  the  round-leaved  or  smooth-seeded  kind ;  that 
being  the  most  proper  sort  to  sow  at  this  season,  its  leaves  being 
considerably  thicker  and  larger  than  the  prickly-seeded  spinage. 

This  seed  should  be  sown  thinly  either  in  beds  or  borders,  and 
generally  broadcast,  in  which  method  you  may  sow  therewith  a  little 
radish-seed ;  when  the  seed  is  sown  in  light  dry  ground,  tread  it  over 
lightly,  and  then  rake  it  in  regularly,  or  you  may  sow;  it  in  drills  a 
foot  asunder,  and  about  half  an  inch  deep. 

Let  it  be  observed,  that  spinage  should  not,  at  this  season,  be  sown 
where  the  ground  is  much  shaded  with  trees  or  bushes ;  for  in  such 
situations,  the  plants  would  be  dr.awn  up  to  seed  before  they  arrive 
to  half  their  growth. 

Hoe  or  hand-weed  the  early  crops  of  spinage,  thinning  the  plants 
at  the  same  time,  but  particularly  those  sown  broadcast,  to  three, 
four,  or  five  inches  distance. 

The  crop  of  winter  spinage,  which  was  sown  last  autumn,  will, 
towards  the  end  of  the  month,  be  advancing  in  good  perfection  for 
use,  and  should  be  kept  clear  from  weeds,  and  the  earth  between  the 
plants  stirred  with  a  hoe ;  and  in  gathering  the  plants  for  use,  if 
they  stand  close,  should  thin  them  out  clean  by  the  roots ;  but  if 
they  already  stand  at  wide  distances,  only  crop  the  large  outer  leaves 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  199 

as  wanted,  till  they  begin  to  run,  then  cut  them  clean  up  to  the 
bottom. 

CARROTS  AND  PARSNEPS. 

Any  time  after  the  middle  of  this  month  that  the  ground  is  in 
good  condition,  you  may  sow  carrots  and  parsneps  for  a  full  crop, 
particularly  the  latter;  and  also,  a  sufficient  early  crop  of  the  former. 

A  spot  of  light  deep  loam,  inclining  a  little  to  sand,  and  in  an 
open  situation,  should  be  chosen  for  these  crops ;  for  their  roots  will 
thrive  best  and  grow  largest  in  such. 

The  ground  should  be  trenched  one  good  spade  deep  at  least,  ob- 
serving in  the  digging  to  take  but  thin  spits,  and  to  break  all  the 
lumps  fine,  that  the  roots  may  have  full  liberty  to  run  down  long  and 
straight ;  for  if  the  earth  is  not  well  divided  and  separated,  the  roots 
are  apt  to  grow  both  short  and  forked. 

Then  draw  drills  one  inch  deep  and  fifteen  inches  apart,  sow  the 
seed  evenly,  cover  carefully  with  the  feet,  after  which,  rake  the  sur- 
face lightly,  and  the  work  is  finished. 

Previous  to  sowing  carrot-seed,  you  should  rub  it  well  between  your 
hands,  mixed  with  some  dry  sand,  to  cause  it  to  separate  freely. 

When  the  plants  are  afyout  three  inches  high,  thin  the  parsneps 
to  six,  and  the  carrots  to  four  inches,  plant  from  plant,  in  the  rows. 

Some  people  sow  the  seeds  broadcast  in  beds,  tread  them  in,  and 
.  then  rake  the  ground ;  but  this  method  should  never  be  practised 
where  the  soil  is  stiff,  inclinable  to  wet,  or  apt  to  bind.  You  may 
sow  with  these  crops  a  few  radish  and  lettuce  seeds ;  of  the  latter  any 
of  the  cos  kinds  are  most  suitable  for  this  purpose,  they  not  being 
subject  to  spread  like  the  heading  sorts. 

'     SMALL  SALADING. 

Small  salading,  such  as  cresses,  mustard,  radish,  rape,. and  turnip, 
&c.,  should,  when  a  constant  supply  is  wanted,  be  sown  once  a  week 
or  fortnight,  in  a  warm  border,  observing  to  draw  some  flat  shallow 
drills  three  inches  asunder ;  sow  the  seeds  therein,  each  sort  separate, 
and  cover  them  lightly  with  fine  earth. 

For  the  particular  method  of  sowing  and  treating  these  seeds,  see 
the  work  of  last  month,  page  132. 

If  these  young  herbs,  or  any  other  of  your  early  advancing  crops, 
such  as1  peas,  beans,  &c.,  are  attacked  with  a  hoar  frost  appearing  on 
them  in  the  morning,  and  a  sunny  day  is  likely  to  follow,  let  them 
be  watered  before  the  sun  shines  on  them  with  spring  or  pump  water, 
to  wash  and  melt  it  off,  which  will  prevent  their  turning  black  and 
spoiling. 

CELERY. 

.If  celery  was  not  sown  last  month,  let  some  seed  be  sown  the  be- 
ginning of  this,  to  plant  out  in  May,  &c.,  for  an  early  crop;  sow 
some  more  of  the  same  seed  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter 
end,  for  a  succession  crop.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  bed  or 


200  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

border  of  mellow  rich  earth,  sowing  it  on  the  surface  moderately 
thick,  and  cover  it  in  lightly  with  fine  mould  not  more  than  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  ;  or  you  may  rake  it  in  with  a  light  and  even  hand.  Water 
the  bed  frequently  in  dry  weather. 

Let  it  be  observed  that  there  are  two  sorts  of  celery ;  one  known 
by  the  name  of  Italian  or  upright  celery ;  the  other  called  celeriac, 
or  turnip-rooted  celery.  The  first  is  that  which  is  commonly  culti- 
vated for  the  general  crops,  and  of  which  there  are  several  varieties, 
viz.,  common  upright  celery  with  hollow  stalks,  solid-stalked  celery, 
red-stalked  solid  celery,  &c.,*  either  of  which  being  raised  from  seed 
sown  as  above,  is  afterwards  planted  in  trenches  for  blanching  their 
stalks,  which  are  the  principal  useful  parts ;  but  the  celeriac  is  gene- 
rally cultivated  for  its  swelling  bottom  part ;  and  being  planted  either 
on  level  ground,  or  in  shallow  drills,  the  roots  of  it  swell  like  a 
turnip.  (See  April,  May,  June,  &c.) 

BROCCOLI. 

Sow  broccoli  for  early  crops,  &c.,  to  come  in  for  use  in  October, 
November,  and  December,  &c. 

Choose  seed  of  the  early  purple,  and  some  of  the  cauliflower  broc- 
coli ;  sow  a  little  of  each  kind  about  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the 
month  in  an  open  bed  of  rich  earth,  and  rake  them  in.  When  the 
plants  come  up,  manage  them  as  directed  in  May,  June,  and  July. 

SOWING  BORECOLE,  OR  CURLED  KALE. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  you  may  sow  a  first  crop  of  bore- 
cole for  autumn  service. 

There  are  two  principal  sorts,  the  green  and  the  brown,  both  very 
hardy  plants,  with  tall  stems,  and  full  heads  of  thick  fimbriate  curled 
leaves,  not  cabbaging,  and  are  desirable  open  greens  for  winter,  &c. 

Let  this  seed  be  sown  in  an  open  exposure,  distant  from  trees  and 
close  fences,  as  in  such  situations  they  are  apt  to  draw  up  too  fast, 
with  long  weak  stalks.  Sow  it  broadcast,  and  rake  it  in  evenly. 
For  other  particulars,  see  the  succeeding  months. 

Borecole  is  extremely  valuable  for  winter  and  spring  greens,  where 
the  winter  frost  is  not  too  powerful  for  it,  particularly  in  all  the 
southern  States.  It  is  the  most  hardy  of  the  cabbage  tribe,  and  in 
mild  winters  will  stand  tolerably  well  in  the  middle  States.  » In  the 
eastern  States,  it  will  require  to  be  taken  up  before  the  winter  frosts 
set  in  with  much  severity,  planted  in  trenches  up  to  the  leaves,  and 
covered  occasionally  with  straw  or  other  light  covering.  The  heads 
•may  be  cut  off  as  wanted,  and  in  spring  the  stems,  if  taken  up  and 
planted  out,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  most  delicious  sprouts. 

*  Hollow  stalked  celery  is  not  worth  cultivating.  Seymour's  White  Solid 
is  one  of  the  very  best. 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  201 


OF  FORKING  AND  DRESSING  THE  ASPARAGUS  BEDS. 

This  work  should  be  begun  afyout  the  latter  end  of  the  month. 
For  the  purpose  of  digging  or  forking  these  beds,  you  should  be  pro- 
vided with  a  proper  fork,  having  three  short  tines,  six  to  eight  or 
nine  inches  long,  perfectly  flat,  about  an  inch  broad,  and  the  ends 
of  them  rounded  and  blunt.  However,  in  want  of  such,  it  may  be 
performed  with  a  small  short-pronged  common  dung-fork. 

In  forking  the  beds,  be  careful  to  loosen  every  part  to  a  moderate 
depth,  but  taking  great  care  not  to  go  too  deep  to  wound  the  crowns 
of  the  roots. 

The  above  work  of  forking  these  beds  is  most  necessary  to  be  done 
every  spring  to  improve  and  loosen  the  ground  and  to  give  free 
liberty  for  the  buds  to  shoot  up,  also  to  give  easy  access  to  the  sun, 
air,  and  showers  of  rain. 

The  beds  being  forked,  they  must  afterwards  be  raked  even,  ob- 
serving, if  you  do  not  rake  them  immediately  after  they  are  forked, 
to  defer  it  no  longer  than  the  first  week  in  April,  for  by  that  time 
the  buds  will  begin  to  advance. 

Before  raking  the  above  beds  you  may  scatter  thereon  a  few  radish 
and  lettuce  seeds  to  pull  up  while  young. 

As  to  the  method  of  gathering  or  cutting  asparagus  when  advanced 
to  a  proper  growth  for  the  table,  it  is  generally  most  eligible  to  be 
furnished  with  an  asparagus  knife,  having  a  straight,  narrow,  taper- 
ing blade,  about  six  or  eight  inches  long,  and  about  an  inch  broad 
at  the  haft,  narrowing  to  about  half  an  inch  at  the  point,  which 
should  be  rounded  off  from  the  back,  observing,  when  the  shoots  are 
from  about  two  to  three  or  four  inches  high,  they  should  be  then  cut, 
slipping  the  knife  down  perpendicularly,  close  to  each  shoot,  and  cut 
it  off  slantingly  about  three  or  four  inches  within  the  ground,  taking 
care  not  to  wound  any  young  buds  coming  up  from  the  same  root,  for 
there  are  always  several  shoots  advancing  therefrom  in  different 
stages  of  growth.* 

PLANTING  ASPARAGUS. 

New  plantations  of  asparagus  may  now  be  made,  this  being  the 
proper  season  to  remove  these  plants.  It  may  be  done  any  time  in 
this  month,  when  the  weather  is  mild. 

In  making  plantations  of  these  plants,  one  great  article  to  be  con- 
sidered is  to  make  choice  of  a  proper  soil;  choose  the  best  the  garden 
affords.  It  must  not  be  wet  nor  too  strong  or  stubborn,  but  such  as 
is  moderately  light  and  pliable,  so  as  it  will  readily  fall  to  pieces  in 
digging  or  raking,  &c.,  and  in  a  situation  that  enjoys  the  full  sun. 

The  ground  where  you  intend  to  make  new  asparagus  beds  should 
have  a  large  supply  of  rotten  or  other  good  dung  laid  thereon  seve- 
ral inches  thick,  and  then  regularly  trenched  two  spades  deep,  and 

*  If  the  young  shoots  be  allowed  to  grow  six  inches  high  and  are  cut 
off  level  with  the  ground,  the  whole  is  tender ;  all  below  the  soil  is  tough 
and  stringy. 


202  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench,  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  be- 
low the  surface. 

When  this  trenching  is  done,  lay  on  two  or  three  inches  of  very 
short  well-rotted  manure  all  over  the  surface,  and  dig  the  ground 
over  again  eight  or  ten  inches  deep,  mixing  this  top-dressing  and  in- 
corporating it  well  with  the  earth. 

The  ground  being  thus  prepared  and  laid  level,  divide  it  into  beds 
four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  with  alleys  two  feet  wide  between  each  bed. 

At  each  corner  of  every  bed  let  a  firm  stake  be  driven  into  the 
ground,  to  serve  as  a  mark  for  the  alleys. 

Four  rows  of  asparagus  are  to  be  planted  in  each  bed,  and  ten  or 
twelve  inches  distance  to  be  allowed  between  plant  and  plant  in  the 
row,  and  let  the  outside  rows  of  each  bed  be  eight  inches  from  the 
edge. 

Next,  let  it  be  observed  that  the  plants  for  this  plantation  must 
not  be  more  than  two  years  old ;  but  most  good  gardeners  prefer  those 
that  are  only  one,  which  are  what  I  would  recommend  and  choose  to 
plant,  as  from  experience  I  have  found  they  generally  take  root  much 
freer  and  succeed  every  way  better  than  the  former.  The  following 
is  the  method  of  planting  them : — 

Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  eight  inches  from  the  edge,  then 
with  a  spade  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill  close  to  the  line,  about 
six  inches  deep,  making  that  side  next  the  line  nearly  upright ;  and 
when  one  trench  is  opened  plant  that  before  you  open  another,  placing 
the  plants  upright  ten  or  twelve  inches  distant  in  the  row. 

In  planting  these  plants,  observe  that  they  must  not  be  placed  flat 
in  the  bottom  of  the  trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of 
the  trench  or  drill,  and  so  that  the  crown  of  the  plants  may  also 
stand  upright,  and  two  or  three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground;  let  them  be  all  placed  an  equal  depth,  spreading  their  roots 
somewhat  regular,  against  the  back  of  the  trench,  and  at  the  same 
time  drawing  a  little  earth  up  against  them  with  the  hand  as  you 
place  them,  just  to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due  position,  till  the  row  is 
planted ;  when  one  row  is  thus  finished,  immediately  with  a  rake  draw 
the  earth  into  a  drill  over  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to  open  an-- 
other  drill  or  trench,  as  before  directed ;  plant  it  in  the  same  manner, 
and  cover  in  the  plants  as  above,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  is  planted, 
then  let  the  surface  of  the  beds  be  raked  smooth,  and  cleared  from 
stones. 

When  the  plants  come  up,  keep  them  always  free  from  weeds ;  but 
in  the  mean  time,  be  cautious  not  to  sow  any  early  crops  whatever 
among  your  young  plantations,  as  is  very  injudiciously  practised  by 
many,  for  these  would  smother  them  in  their  growth,  and  greatly  re- 
tard their  progress. 

Let  it  be  next  observed  that  it  will  be  three  years  from  the  time 
of  planting  before  the  asparagus  plants  produce  buds  large  enough  to 
cut  for  use  in  any  general  gathering ;  though  sometimes  in  rich,  good 
ground,  and  a  remarkably  prosperous  growth  in  the  plants  in  the  pro- 
duction of  strong  shoots,  a  few  of  the  largest  may  be  cut  the  second 
spring  after  planting,  but  I  would  advise  not  to  cut  many  before  the 
third  year. 


MARCH]         THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  203 

A  plantation  of  asparagus,  if  the  beds  are  properly  dressed  every 
year,  as  directed  in  the  spring  and  autumn  months,  will  continue  to 
produce  good  buds  for  ten  or  twelve  years  or  more. 

In  making  new  plantations,  I  have  sometimes,  instead  of  putting 
in  young  plants  as  above  directed,  sown  the  seed  at  once  in  beds 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain ;  and,  as  by  that  practice  the  plants 
are  not  disturbed  by  a  removal,  they  consequently  cannot  fail  of  pro- 
ducing a  regular  crop. 

The  beds  being  four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  and  prepared  as  before 
directed  for  the  plants,  mark  out  four  lines  lengthways  the  beds ; 
then  along  these  line,  at  the  distance  of  every  nine  or  ten  inches, 
dot  in  a  few  seeds,  covering  them  about  an  inch  deep.  When  the 
plants  have  been  come  up  some  time,  they  must  be  thinned,  leaving 
only  one  of  the  strongest  in  each  place,  and  carefully  clear  them  from 
weeds. 

A  plantation  of  asparagus  thus  raised,  will  produce  buds  fit  to  cut 
the  third  spring  after  sowing,  but  will  be  very  large  and  fine  the 
fourth  year. 

For  forcing  asparagus,  see  February,  page  128. 

SOWING  ASPARAGUS   SEED. 

This  seed  may  be  sown  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter  end 
of  the  month,  on  four  feet  wide  beds  of  rich  earth.  Sow  it  tolerably 
thin  on  the  surface,  clap  it  in  with  the  back  of  a  spade,  cover  it  a 
little  better  than  half  an  inch  deep  with  earth  out  of  the  alleys,  and 
then  rake  the  beds  smooth. 

Or  it  may  be  sown  thinly  in  drills,  six  inches  asunder,  and  covered 
the  same  depth  as  above ;  give  the  beds,  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  are  up,  occasional  waterings  to  strengthen  them  and  forward 
their  growth;  and  they  must  be  kept  very  free  from  weeds,  by  a 
careful  hand-weeding  at  different  times  during  the  summer. 

When  a  quantify  of  asparagus  for  forcing  is  annually  required, 
you  must  act  as  directed  in  February,  page  128. 

SOWING   BEET    SEED. 

You  may  now  sow  some  of  the  different  sorts  of  beet ;  the  red  for 
its  large  root,  and  the  green  and  white  sorts  for  their  leaves  in  soups, 
stewing,  &c. 

For  this  purpose  make  choice  of  a  piece  of  rich  deep  ground ;  lay 
it  out  into  four  feet  wide  beds,  push  the  loose  earth  into  the  alleys, 
then  sow  the  seed  tolerably  thin  and  cover  it  with  the  earth  out  of 
these  alleys  to  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep.  Or  let  drills  be 
drawn  with  a  hoe,  near  an  inch  deep,  and  a  foot  or  a  little  more  asun- 
der; drop  the  seeds  thinly  therein  and  cover  them  over  the  same 
depth  as  above.  Or  you  may  sow  the  seed  on  a  piece  of  ground, 
rough  after  being  dug,  and  rake  it  well  in. 

Likewise  you  may  now  sow  the  Mangel  Wurtzel,  root  of  scarcity, 
or  great  German  beet,  for  its  large  leaves  to  boil  as  spinage,  its  thick 
fleshy  leaf-stalks  to  dress  as  asparagus,  and  its  roots  for  boiling  before 


204  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

they  become  of  a  very  large  size.  The  leaves  and  roots  are  excellent 
food  for  cattle ;  producing,  during  summer,  an  uncommon  abund- 
ance of  foliage ;  the  outside  leaves,  for  this  purpose,  may  be  stripped 
off  every  eight  days  during  the  season,  but  if  large  and  well  deve- 
loped roots  are  wanted  for  winter  fodder,  the  leaves  are  better  to  be 
left  on. 

SOWING   ONION   SEED. 

In  order  to  have  onions  in  good  perfection  the  first  year  from 
seed,  which  can  certainly  be  effected  in  the  middle,  but  more  partic- 
ularly in  the  eastern  States,  you  must  be  careful  to  fix  upon  a  suit- 
able soil,  which  is  a  strong,  light,  rich  loam ;  always  avoiding  that 
which  is  subject  to  become  parched  or  bound  up  by  heat  and  drought ; 
or  that,  in  consequence  of  too  large  a  proportion  of  sand,  is  likely  to 
become  violently  hot  in  summer,  for  this  is  extremely  injurious  to 
those  plants  by  causing  them  to  come  to  an  untimely  maturity,  mani- 
fested by  the  extraordinary  perfection  that  onions  arrive  to  in  the 
moderate  climates  of  Europe,  where  they  have  not  to  encounter  a 
violent  summer  heat. 

If  this  ground  had  been  strongly  manured  in  November,  and  then 
thrown  up  into  high  sloping  ridges,  it  would  be  much  improved  and 
meliorated  by  the  frost,  &c.,  and  could  now  be  easily  and  expedi- 
tiously  levelled  for  sowing. 

When  this  is  not  the  case  you  may  now  give  such  ground  a  good 
coat  of  well-rotted  cow  dung,  or  other  good  rotten  manure,  and  dig 
it  a  full  spade  deep,  incorporating  the  dung  therewith  and  pulverizing 
the  earth  as  you  proceed  in  the  digging ;  this  should  not  be  attempted 
till  the  ground  it  sufficiently  dry  to  pulverize  well  and  fall  to  pieces 
under  the  rake ;  but  the  earlier  you  can  get  it  in  this  state,  and  the 
seed  sown,  the  larger  and  better  onions  will  you  have. 

There  are  various  methods  of  sowing  the  seed;  but  first  I  will  give 
you  the  one  practised  by  the  most  judicious  and  careful  gardeners. 

As  you  proceed  in  digging  the  ground  rake  it  well  after  you ;  that 
being  done  lay  it  out  into  three  and  a  half,  or  four  feet  wide  beds, 
with  alleys  between  of  about  a  foot  wide;  then  with  the  back  of  a 
rake  push  off  the  light  loose  earth  from  the  top  of  each  bed  into  the 
alleys,  one  half  to  the  one  side,  the  other  to  the  opposite;  this  done, 
and  being  provided  with  good  seed,  sow  it  thereon  at  the  rate  of  one 
pound  for  every  sixteen  rods,  and  with  a  shovel  cast  the  earth  out 
of  the  alleys  over  the  beds,  covering  the  seeds  evenly  about  half  an 
inch  deep;  then  rake  the  beds  lightly,  drawing  off  all  the  lumps  into 
the  alleys. 

When  the  plants  are  up  let  them  be  kept  very  clean  and  free  from 
weeds  of  any  kind  by  a  good  careful  hand- weeding,  which  is  to  be 
repeated,  from  time  to  time,  as  they  require  it;  and  where  they  grow 
too  close  thin  them  to  about  two  inches,  plant  from  plant,  all  over 
the  beds;  by  these  means  you  will  have  excellent  onions  for  the 
table  the  first  year. 

Others  dig  the  ground,  levelling  the  surface  evenly  after  them  as 
they  proceed  in  digging  without  raking  it,  and  lay  it  out  in  beds  as 


MARCH]          THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  205 

before;  then  sow  the  seed  thereon  and  rake  it  in ;  and  if  the  earth  is 
light  and  dry  they  frequently  tread  it  in  with  the  feet  before  raking. 
Or  the  beds  may  be  prepared,  as  in  the  first  instance,  and  the  seeds 
sown  very  thinly  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  either  of  which  methods  will 
do  very  well.  The  last  is,  however,  the  best,  as  the  push  hoe  can  be 
used  in  extirpating  the  weeds,  and  loosening  the  surface. 

But  when  they  are  raised  upon  an  extensive  scale  the  ground  may 
be  cultivated  by  the  plough,  and  when  harrowed  very  fine  the  seed 
may  be  sown  in  drills  at  the  above  distance,  and  the  intervals  between 
them  kept  clean  by  hoeing;  the  remainder  must  be  carefully  hand- 
weeded. 

Sowing  seed,  to  produce  small  seed  onions,  will  answer  better  in 
April,  which  see.  If  sown  in  this  month  they  would  generally  grow 
to  too  large  a  size  for  that  purpose. 

Of  the  several  varieties  of  onion  the  Strasburg  is  the  best  for  a 
general  crop;  it  is-a  handsome  bulb,  generally  assuming  a  roundish 
oval  shape,  is  of  firm  growth,  and  keeps  well  for  winter  service. 

The  white  Spanish  and  silver  skinned  onions  are  of  a  milder  taste, 
but  all  the  varieties  generally  turn  out  very  profitable  crops;  the  latter 
kinds  rarely  keep  so  well  after  January  as  the  Strasburg. 

The  Portugal  and  Madeira  onions  are  extremely  fine;  but  they 
rarely  attain  with  us  as  large  a  size  as  in  these  countries. 

The  red  Spanish  onion  is  highly  esteemed  for  pickling  on  account 
of  its  deep  blood-red  color,  and  much  cultivated  for  that  purpose : 
it  may  also  be  used  for  any  other  purpose  as  well  as  the  former 
kinds. 

'   SOWING  LEEKS. 

Leek  seed  may  be  sown,  and  treated  in  every  respect  for  the  present 
as  directed  for  onion  seed. 


PLANTING  SEED  ONIONS. 

By  seed  onions  is  meant  the  small  bulbs  produced  from  seed  sown 
last  season,  which  should  be  planted  out  as  early  in  spring  as  it  is 
possible  to  get  the  ground  in  a  good  state  for  tillage;  the  southern 
States  in  particular  have  to  depend  on  such  for  a  general  crop,  as  the 
summer  heat  is  too  powerful  in  these,  and  indeed  in  the  middle  States, 
except  the  ground  is  peculiarly  suitable  for  the  bulks  arriving  at  a 
sufficient  size  the  first  year  from  seed. 

Having  prepared  an  open  piece  of  strong  ground,  well  dug  and 
enriched  with  manure,  you  may  proceed  to  plant  these  bulbs  in  rows, 
either  by  line  and  dibble,  or  by  hoe;  planting  them  not  more  than 
half  an  inch  over  the  crowns :  let  the  drills  or  rows  be  six  inches 
asunder,  and  the  onions  three  inches  one  from  the  other  in  the  rows. 

But  for  expedition  sake,  especially  when  there  are  large  quantities 
to  be  planted,  prepare  an  instrument,  just  in  form  of  a  common 
hay-rake,  having  four  round  teeth  or  pegs,  either  of  wood  or  iron, 
placed  in  the  head,  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  from  each  other, 
four  inches  long,  and  near  an  inch  in  diameter,  close  to  the  head, 


206  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

tapering  to  a  blunt  point :  this  being  in  readiness,  proceed  to  mark 
out  your  ground  into  two  feet  wide  beds,  leaving  a  twelve  inch  alley 
between  each;  then  pull  this  rake  along  each  bed  from  one  end  to 
the  other,  pressing  it  down  as  you  proceed,  by  which  it  will  make 
four  regular  drills  in  each,  for  the  reception  of  the  small  onions, 
which  you  are  to  plant  by  hand  in  these  drills,  at  the  distance  above 
mentioned,  and  just  so  deep  as  that  you  can  cover  the  crowns,  by 
drawing  a  little  earth  over  them  with  the  hand  as  you  proceed. 

By  the  same  method  you  may  plant  these  onions  in  beds  of  any 
dimensions  you  please,  either  lengthwise  or  across  the  beds. 

The  Allium  canadense^  or  tree  onion,  merits  culture  both  as  a 
curiosity  in  producing  the  onions  at  the  top  of  the  stalk,  as  well  as 
for  their  value  in  domestic  use,  particularly  for  pickling,  in  which 
they  are  excellent,  and  superior  in  flavor  to  the  common  kinds;  they 
may  also  be  used  for  any  other  purposes  that  onions  are. 

It  is  perennial,  and  propagated  by  planting  the  bulbs  in  spring  or 
autumn,  either  the  root-bulbs,  or  those  produced  on  the  top  of  the 
stalks ;  the  latter  if  planted  in  spring  as  directed  for  the  other  kinds 
will  produce  very  fine,  handsome  sized  onions  of  excellent  flavor. 

The  root-bulbs  increase  greatly  by  offsets,  and  should  be  taken  up 
once  in  every  two  or  three  years,  when  the  stems  decay  in  autumn, 
and  replanted  again  to  produce  a  supply  of  top-bulbs. 

GARLIC,  ROCAMBOLE,  AND  SHALLOTS. 

Prepare  some  beds  of  good  ground,  four  feet  wide,  in  which  to  plant 
garlic,  rocambole,  and  shallots;  of  which  procure  some  best  bulbs 
or  roots ;  divide  the  garlic  and  rocambole  into  cloves,  and  the  shal- 
lots into  offsets,  as  they  admit;  plant  them  in  rows,  lengthwise  the 
beds,  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder,  by  six  inches  distance  in  each 
row,  and  two  or  three  inches  deep. 

They  may  be  planted  either  with  a  dibble  or  in  drills  drawn  with 
a  hoe. 

GIVES,  OR  CHIVES. 

Gives,  a  small  species  of  onion,  growing  in  large  tufts,  are  useful 
in  a  family  in  the  spring,  &c.,  as  a  substitute  for  young  onions,  both 
in  salads  and  culinary  purposes;  they  are  propagated  by  slipping 
the  roots,  and  this  is  a  proper  time  to  plant  them ;  the  method  is  to 
part  or  take  off  some  slips  from  the  old  roots  several  small  offsets 
together,  and  plant  them  in  beds  or  borders  about  six  to  eight,  or 
nine  inches  distance. 

In  slipping  or  parting  the  above  roots,  observe  to  preserve  eight, 
ten,  or  more  of  the  small  bulbs  together  in  a  cluster,  and  in  that 
manner  to  plant  them. 

They  are  to  be  planted  with  a  dibble  or  trowel,  making  holes  for 
them  at  the  distance  above  mentioned,  putting  one  cluster  of  roots, 
as  above,  in  each  hole,  and  closing  the  earth  well  about  them.  They 
will  soon  take  root,  and  increase  very  fast  into  large  bunches,  of  many 
years'  duration. 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  207 


TURNIPS. 

Sow  turnips  for  a  first  early  crop,  about  the  middle,  or  towards 
the  latter  end  of  this  month,  in  an  open  situation,  and  where  the 
ground  is  light. 

The  proper  sort  to  sow  now  is  principally  the  early  Dutch  and  six 
weeks  turnip,  they  being  the  best  sort  to  sow  at  this  season  in  gar- 
dens, but  especially  for  the  first  and  second  crops ;  excepting  in  very 
cool  and  moist  localities,  turnips  do  not  succeed  during  the  summer 
months. 

SCORZONERA  AND  SALSAFY. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  sow  scorzonera  and  salsafy ; 
these  plants  are  in  some  families  much  esteemed  for  their  roots, 
which  are  the  only  parts  that  are  eaten,  except  the  salsafy,  as  ex- 
plained below. 

The  roots  run  pretty  deep  in  the  ground,  in  the  manner  of  carrots 
and  parsneps,  and  are  boiled  or  stewed,  and  eaten  either  alone  or  with 
flesh- meat,  like  young  carrots,  &c. 

But  the  salsafy  is  estimable  both  for  its  roots  as  above,  and  for  the 
young  shoots  rising  in  the  spring  from  the  year  old  plants,  being 
gathered  while  green  and  tender,  are  good  to  boil  and  eat  in  the  man- 
ner of  asparagus. 

Dig  one  or  more  beds  for  each  of  the  above,  in  an  open  situation. 
Sow  the  seed  either  in  shallow  drills,  six  inches  distant,  and  earthed 
over  half  an  inch,  or  sow  on  the  surface,  covered  from  the  alleys,  and 
the  beds  then  raked;  they  are  all  to  remain  where  sown,  and  the 
plants  thinned  in  May  to  from  four  to  six  inches  distant. 

LARGE  ROOTED  PARSLEY. 

Sow  the  seeds  of  Hamburg,  or  large  rooted  parsley ;  this  is  culti- 
vated for  its  large  parsnep-like  root :  let  the  seeds  be  sown  in  an  open 
situation,  either  in  shallow  drills,  or  on  the  surface,  and  raked  in 
evenly;  when  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  in  growth,  they 
must  be  thinned  to  six  inches  distant,  that  the  roots  may  have  room 
to  swell. 

SKIRRETS. 

Skirret  seed  may  be  sown  tolerably  thin,  on  beds  of  good  earth 
and  raked  in,  or  they  may  be  propagated  by  parting  their  roots,  and 
planting  them  at  six  or  eight  inches  distant.  The  fleshy  tubers  of 
these  roots  are  considered  very  delicious. 

SOWING  PARSLEY. 

Parsley  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  single  drill  along  the  edge  of  the 
quarters  or  borders  of  the  garden ;  it  will  make  a  useful  and  also  a 
neat  edging,  if  not  suffered  to  grow  rank,  especially  the  curled  parsley; 


208  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

or  if  large  supplies  are  wanted  for  market,  it  may  be  sown  in  con- 
tinued rows  nine  inches  asunder,  or  upon  the  general  surface,  trod 
down  and  raked  in. 


SOWING  CHERVIL  AND  CORIANDER. 

Sow  chervil  and  coriander  for  soups  and  salads,  &c. ;  draw  shallow 
drills  for  these  seeds  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder :  sow  each  sort 
separate,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep  with  earth. 

These  herbs  are  all  to  remain  where  sown,  and  the  chief  culture 
they  require  is  to  be  kept  clear  from  weeds;  but  as  the  plants  soon 
run  up  for  seed,  you  should  sow  a  small  portion  every  month. 

CRAMEE  MARITIMA,  OR  SEA  KALE.* 

The  Crambe  maritimaj  or  Sea  Kale,  being  yet  very  little  known 
in  the  United  States,  though  a  most  excellent  garden  vegetable,  and 
highly  deserving  of  cultivation,  it  may  be  of  importance  to  the  com- 
munity to  give  some  account  of  this  plant,  and  the  most  approved 
methods  of  cultivating  it. 

This  plant  is  found  growing  spontaneously,  though  locally,  on  the 
sea  shore  of  the  southern  parts  of  England,  as  well  as  in  similar 
places  in  many  other  parts  of  Europe. 

It  is  of  the  same  natural  class  as  the  cabbage,  but  differs  from  it 
and  most  of  the  Tetradynamus  plants  of  LINNJEUS,  in  having  a  round 
seed  vessel,  containing  one  seed  only;  its  root  is  perennial,  running  to 
a  great  depth,  growing  to  great  thickness,  and  branching  out  widely, 
but  not  creeping:  its  full  grown  leaves  are  large,  equalling  in  size, 
when  the  plant  grows  luxuriantly,  those  of  the  largest  cabbage,  of  a 
glaucous  or  sea-green  hue,  and  waved  at  the  edges,  thick  and  succu- 
lent in  their  wild  state,  dying  away  and  disappearing  entirely  at  the 
approach  of  winter.  Seedling  plants  when  raised  in  spring,  produce 
the  first  year  radical  leaves  only;  the  second  spring  most  of  them 
throw  up  a  flowering  stem,  a  foot  or  more  in  height,  which,  expanding 
into  numerous  branches,  forms  a  magnificent  head  of  white  or  cream- 
colored  flowers,  having  a  honey -like  fragrance;  these,  if  the  season 
proves  favorable,  are  followed  by  abundance  of  seed. 

As  an  article  of  food,  the  Crambe  maritima  appears  to  be  better 
known  in  England  than  in  any  other  part  of  Europe;  it  is  in  that 
country  only  that  its  value  is  rightly  appreciated  and  its  culture 
carefully  attended  to. 

On  many  parts  of  the  sea  coast  of  England,  especially  of  Devon- 
shire, Dorsetshire,  and  Sussex,  the  inhabitants  from  time  immemorial 
have  been  in  the  practice  of  procuring  it  for  their  tables,  preferring 
it  to  all  other  greens.  They  seek  for  the  plant  in  the  spring  where 
it  grows  spontaneously;  and  as  soon  as  it  appears  above  ground,  they 
remove  the  pebbles  or  sand  with  which  it  is  usually  covered  to  the 

*  This  vegetable  ought  to  be  cooked  in  a  pan,  the  inside  of  which  is 
lined  with  block  tin  or  porcelain ;  if  exposed  to  an  iron  surface,  it  will  get 
black  and  be  of  bitter  flavor. 


MARCH]          THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  209 

depth  of  several  inches,  and  cut  off  the  young  and  tender  leaves  and 
stalks,  as  yet  unexpanded  and  in  a  blanched  state,  close  to  the  crown 
of  the  root.  It  is  then  in  its  greatest  perfection.  When  the  leaves 
are  fully  grown  they  become  hard  and  bitter,  and  the  plant  is  not 
eatable. 

The  more  curious,  desirous  of  having  it  at  hand  and  in  their  im- 
mediate possession,  have  now,  in  many  parts  of  the  maritime  counties 
of  England,  introduced  it  into  their  gardens;  and  in  Devonshire  par- 
ticularly there  is  scarcely  a  good  garden  to  be  found  without  a  plan- 
tation of  it  for  the  use  of  the  table.  It  is  also  cultivated  for  sale  in 
various  parts  of  England,  particularly  Bath,  Chichester,  &c. 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  the  sea  kale  is  delicate  eating  only  when 
young,  and  that  it  is  highly  improved  by  being  blanched.  In  the 
cultivation  of  this  plant  it  becomes  necessary  to  blanch  it  before  it 
is  fit  for  the  table.  To  effect  this  it  must  be  covered  in  some  way  or 
other  before  the  flowering  stem,  which  constitutes  the  chief  eatable 
part,  and  its  attendant  leaves  show  the  least  sign  of  emerging  from 
the  crown  of  the  root. 

Cultivators  have  differed  widely  respecting  the  mode  of  treating 
this  plant;  many,  conceiving  that  stones  or  gravel  and  sea  sand  are 
essential  to  its  growth,  have  gone  to  the  expense  of  providing  it 
with  such,  not  aware  that  it  will  grow  much  more  luxuriantly  on  a 
rich  sandy  loam,  where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great  depth 
without  reaching  the  water,  in  which,  if  they  are  immersed,  they  are 
apt  to  rot.  The  plant  will  succeed  almost  in  any  soil,  provided  it 
be  dry.  Its  luxuriance  will  depend  chiefly  on  the  manure  with  which 
the  soil  is  enriched,  but,  of  all  others,  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam  is  its 
favorite  soil. 

The  most  usual  mode  of  raising  the  sea  kale  is  from  seed.  It 
may  also  be  raised  from  cuttings  of  the  root,  and  that  with  the 
greatest  certainty ;  but  seedlings  make  the  finest  plants.  Some  find 
a  difficulty  in  making  the  seeds  vegetate ;  this  may  be  attributed  to 
their  being  old,  buried  too  deep  in  the  earth,  or  sown  too  late  in  the 
spring.  The  most  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  is  in  October,  or 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  got  in  a  fit  condition  to 
receive  them,  and  an  inch  is  the  proper  depth  to  cover  them.  They 
rarely  vegetate  in  less  than  six  weeks  after  being  sown,  even  in  the 
most  favorable  season;  and  some  will  remain  in  the  ground  for 
twelve  months  before  they  vegetate.  Should  the  season  prove  dry, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  water  the  ground  where  the  seeds  are  sown, 
and  the  plants  after  they  appear,  frequently. 

It  is  the  best  practice  to  raise  young  plants  immediately  from  seed 
on  the  bed  where  they  are  intended  to  remain;  by  this  means  the 
plants  receive  no  check  in  their  growth.  When  you  have  formed 
your  bed,  which  should  be  raised  somewhat  above  the  level  of  the 
ground,  being  previously  trenched  very  deep  and  enriched  with  the 
best  rotten  manure,  make  each  bed  wide  enough  to  hold  two  rows  of 
plants,  the  space  between  each  plant  in  the  row  fourteen  inches,  and 
between  each  row  a  foot  and  a  half.  Sow  about  six  or  eight  seeds, 
as  before  directed,  on  each  spot  where  your  plant  is  intended  to  re- 
main. This  number  is  directed  in  order  to  guard  against  accidents, 
14 


210  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

as  every  seed  may  not  vegetate,  or  at  least  not  the  first  season,  which 
would  be  a  losing  year ;  besides,  some  of  those  that  do  may  be  de- 
stroyed by  worms  or  insects.  Should  all  of  them  succeed  they  are 
easily  reduced  to  three  plants.  This  reduction,  however,  need  not  be 
made  too  hastily.  During  summer  your  bed  of  course  must  be  kept 
perfectly  clean  from  weeds.  If,  for  the  sake  of  a  more  certain  crop, 
you  are  disposed  to  make  your  plantation  of  the  cuttings  of  the  roots, 
you  may  take  such  as  are  about  half  an  inch  or  a  little  more  in 
diameter,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  of  about  two  inches  in  length, 
burying  each  in  an  upright  position  about  three  inches  under  ground, 
in  the  same  kind  of  bed  and  at  the  same  distances  as  you  would  have 
sown  the  seeds.  The  middle  or  latter  end  of  this  month  will  be  a 
proper  season  in  the  middle  States  for  doing  this;  earlier  in  the 
southern  States,  and  somewhat  later  in  the  eastern. 

Or  if,  for  the  sake  of  forwarding  your  plantation  and  gaining  time, 
you  make  use  of  plants  instead  of  seeds  or  cuttings,  presuming  that 
it  is  possible  for  you  to  procure  them,  they  should  be  those  of  a  year 
old,  and  taken  up  with  due  care  out  of  the  seed-bed.  Trim  off  the 
extreme  part  of  the  root,  and  let  each  plant  be  planted  in  a  perpen- 
dicular manner  so  deep  as  that  its  crown  will  be  one  inch  under  the 
surface.  The  period  before  mentioned  for  planting  cuttings  will  be 
the  proper  time  for  transplanting  these.  If  their  flowering-stalks  be 
cut  for  food  the  same  season,  it  will  weaken  the  plants  considerably, 
and  hence,  even  in  point  of  time,  there  is  little  gained  by  using  such ; 
for  most  of  the  seedling  plants  in  your  bed,  if  they  have  been  pro- 
perly managed,  as  well  as  your  plants  from  cuttings,  will  flower,  and 
of  course  be  fit  to  cut  the  second  year. 

In  November  cover  your  beds  with  a  thick  coat  of  rotten  dung  or 
leaves ;  this,  at  the  same  time  that  it  protects  your  plants  from  frost, 
will  bring  them  more  forward,  and  add  to  their  luxuriance ;  about 
the  middle  of  March,  in  the  middle  States,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
cover  your  plants  for  blanching ;  the  most  ready  mode  of  doing  which, 
is  to  draw  the  earth  up  with  a  hoe  over  the  crown  of  the  root,  so  that 
each  plant  shall  be  covered  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches ; 
some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea  sand,  some  common  sand  and 
pebbles,  and  others  with  large  garden  pots  inverted,  and  placed  im- 
mediately over  the  plants,  stopping  up  the  holes  at  the  bottoms;  this 
last  is  the  neatest  and  cleanest  mode. 

The  finest  or  at  least  the  largest  sea  kale,  is  that  which  is  pro- 
duced from  seedling  plants  the  first  year  of  their  flowering,  as  the 
great  produce  of  the  plant  then  centres  in  one  flowering  stem ;  after- 
wards the  crown  of  the  root  ramifying  into  many  heads,  a  greater 
number  of  stalks  are  produced,  which  are  more  slender  but  not  less 
delicate. 

When  your  plants  have  been  covered  in  either  method,  three,  four, 
or  five  weeks,  according  to  the  early  or  late  period  of  covering,  ex- 
amine them,  and  if  you  find  that  the  stalks  have  shot  up  three  or 
four  inches,  you  may  begin  cutting ;  should  you  wait  till  all  the  shoots 
are  of  a  considerable  length,  your  crop  will  come  in  too  much  at  once, 
for  in  this  plant  there  is  not  that  succession  of  growth  which  there 
is  in  asparagus;  you  may  continue  cutting  till  you  see  the  head  of 


MARCH]         THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  211 

flowers  begin  to  form,  and  if  at  this  time  you  uncover  it  entirely, 
and  let  it  proceed  to  that  state  in  which  the  broccoli  is  usually  cut, 
and  use  it  as  such,  you  will  find  it  an  excellent  substitute  j  and  this 
greatly  enhances  the  value  of  the  plant,  as  broccoli  does  not  stand 
our  winter  frost,  and  can  only  be  had  when  carefully  protected  as 
directed  in  November,  but  this  plant  is  sufficiently  hardy  to  bear  our 
severest  frost  without  much  injury.  You  are  not  to  weaken  the  roots 
too  much  by  over-cutting,  for  in  that  case  you  would  injure  their 
next  year's  bearing ;  they  are  to  be  indulged  as  you  do  asparagus  with 
several  uncut  shoots  to  grow  up  during  summer,  to  carry  on  a  proper 
vegetation,  to  strengthen  and  enlarge  the  roots. 

Such  as  are  partial  to  this  plant  may  force  it  in  any  of  the  winter 
or  early  spring  months,  nothing  more  being  necessary  than  to  place 
over  each  plant  a  large  garden  pot,  as  in  one  of  the  modes  of  blanch- 
ing already  recommended,  and  cover  the  pots  with  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  hot  horse-dung ;  the  heat  of  the  dung  brings  forward  the 
plant,  while  the  pot  keeps  it  from  coming  in  contact  therewith ;  and 
as  the  growth  of  the  plant  is  by  this  means  greatly  accelerated,  it  is 
of  course  rendered  more  tender  as  well  as  sweeter. 

These  plants  may  also  be  forced  in  frames  as  directed  in  January 
and  February  for  asparagus,  observing  to  take  up  such  plants  for  this 
purpose  as  are  sure  to  flower  \  trimming  their  side  roots  and  shorten- 
ing their  long  tap-roots  to  the  length  of  nine  or  ten  inches,  or  twelve 
in  very  large  plants,  and  placing  them  in  a  frame  on  a  hot-bed,  and 
in  a  suitable  depth  of  earth,  at  the  distance  of  four  to  six  inches 
asunder ;  as  the  plants  used  thus,  will  be  rendered  of  little  or  no 
value ;  where  this  practice  is  used,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  reg- 
ular succession  of  plants  for  the  purpose. 

In  cutting  the  plants  for  the  table,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  in- 
jure the  crowns  of  the  roots  by  cutting  the  shoots  too  close  to  them. 

The  sooner  this  delicious  esculent  is  dressed,  after  it  is  cut,  the 
better.  Twenty  minutes  boiling,  in  general,  is  sufficient  to  make  it 
tender :  this  process  is  the  more  to  be  attended  to,  as  the  goodness  of 
the  article  greatly  depends  on  it;  that  which  is  young,  recently  cut 
or  forced,  will  be  done  in  less  time ;  when  properly  boiled  it  is  to  be 
served  up  in  the  manner  of  asparagus ;  it  dresses  well  by  stewing, 
and  makes  an  excellent  pickle. 

As  an  esculent  vegetable  it  is  found  to  be  very  wholesome,  and 
most  people  who  have  tried  it  prefer  it  to  asparagus,  to  which  it  is 
related,  in  point  of  flavor. 

When  the  crop  is  sufficiently  cut,  level  the  earth  all  over  the  beds, 
keep  them  free  from  large  weeds  during  the  remainder  of  the  season, 
and  cover  them  in  November,  as  before  directed. 

This  plant  will  grow  extremely  well  in  such  soil  as  suits  asparagus, 
having  it  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  for  that,  and  would  be  very 
profitable  to  cultivate  for  sale  near  cities  and  large  towns. 

SPRING  DRESSING   OF   ARTICHOKES. 

As  soon  in  this  month  as  the  very  severe  frosts  are  over,  any  long 
•  light  litter  with  which  your  artichokes  are  covered  must  be  raked  off 


212  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

into  the  trenches  ;  and  when  you  perceive  the  young  shoots  beginning 
to  appear  above  ground,  or  rather  one  or  two  inches  up,  not  before, 
proceed  to  levelling  down  the  beds  into  the  alleys  or  trenches,  round- 
ing them  in  a  neat  manner,  then  dig  and  loosen  all  the  ground  around 
the  plants ;  at  the  same  time  examine  the  number  of  shoots  arising 
on  each  stool  or  root,  selecting  three  of  the  strongest  and  healthiest 
looking  on  every  stool  to  remain ;  all  above  that  number  are  to  be 
slipped  off  close  to  the  root  with  your  hand,  except  you  want  such  to 
make  new  plantations  with;  in  which  case,  any  extra  number  for  that 
purpose  are  to  remain  on  the  mother  plants  until  they  are  about  eight 
or  ten  inches  high  from  their  roots  or  junction  with  the  old  plants, 
when  they  are  to  be  slipped  off  and  planted  as  hereafter  directed, 
leaving  only  three  of  the  best  shoots  on  each  crown  as  before,  closing 
the  earth  in  again  about  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and  drawing  it  a 
little  up  to  the  remaining  suckers.  Observe  that  in  every  part  of  the 
Union  this  dressing  is  to  be  given  when  the  plants  are  in  the  above 
described  state,  whether  that  happens  in  February,  March,  or  April, 
occasioned  by  the  difference  of  climate,  or  the  earliness  or  lateness 
of  the  spring. 

PLANTING   ARTICHOKES. 

In  making  new  plantations  of  artichokes,  select  for  that  purpose  a 
piece  of  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam,  that  is  not  subject  to  retain  too  much 
wet  in  winter,  nor  to  be  parched  up  with  drought  in  summer,  having 
a  gentle  slope  sufficient  to  carry  off  any  moisture  that  might  lodge 
in  the  trenches  between  the  rows;  for  that  is  much  more  destructive 
to  their  roots  in  winter  than  the  most  severe  frost ;  when  both  these 
enemies  attack  the  plants  with  their  combined  powers,  they  seldom 
fail  to  accomplish  the  work  of  destruction ;  but  from  the  frosts  there 
is  not  much  to  be  apprehended  if  the  plants  lie  dry. 

Having  fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and  situation,  lay  on  it  a  good 
quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and  trench  the  ground  one  good  spade  or 
eighteen  inches  deep,  incorporating  the  manure  well  therewith,  and 
pulverizing  the  ground  effectually  in  the  digging;  then  proceed  to 
take  of  the  slips  mentioned  before  in  the  dressing  of  artichokes, 
slipping  them  off  the  mother  stools  with  all  the  roots  or  fibres  which 
they  may  have  thrown  out,  rejecting  such  as  appear  unhealthy,  and 
closing  the  earth  up  after  you  to  the  remaining  shoots.  These  being 
provided,  pull  off  any  loose  hanging  leaves,  and  trim  the  fibres ;  then 
plant  them  with  a  dibble,  about  four  or  five  inches  deep,  in  rows  five 
feet  asunder,  and  two  feet  plant  from  plant  in  the  row,  leaving  part 
of  their  green  tops  above  ground,  and  the  hearts  of  the  plants  free 
from  any  earth  over  them,  and  give  each  plant  a  little  water  to  settle 
the  earth  about  its  roots. 

Or,  if  you  have  seedling  year  old  plants  in  a  seed  bed,  you  may 
take  them  up,  tind  after  shortening  their  tap-roots  a  little  and  dress- 
ing their  leaves,  plant  them  as  above. 

Such  young  plantations,  if  kept  clear  from  weeds,  and  now  and 
then  watered  in  dry  weather,  will  yield  good  artichokes  the  following 
autumn,  but  will  produce  larger  fruit,  and  more  abundantly  next 


MARCH]         THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  213 

year.  You  may  sow  a  small  crop  of  lettuce,  radish,  or  spinage,  &c., 
the  first  year  between  these  rows,  especially  if  you  wish  to  make  the 
most  of  your  ground. 

A  plantation  of  artichokes  will  continue  to  produce  good  heads  for 
five  or  six  years,  but  it  must  be  observed,  that  if  you  wish  to  have  a 
succession  of  this  fruit,  you  must  make  a  small  plantation  every 
spring,  for  the  young  plants  will  not  produce  their  heads  in  perfection 
till  after  the  crops  of  the  old  standing  ones  are  over. 

SOWING  ARTICHOKE  SEED. 

There  are  two  principal  varieties  of  the  garden  artichoke;  indeed 
Mr.  Miller  makes  two  species  of  them;  the  cynara  scolymus,  or 
French  artichoke,  and  the  cynara  hortensis,  or  globe  artichoke. 

The  first  being  the  sort  which  in  former  times  was  most  commonly 
cultivated  in  France,  is  generally  known  by  the  title  of  French 
artichoke.  The  leaves  are  terminated  by  short  spines,  the  head  is 
oval,  and  the  scales  do  not  turn  inward  at  the  top  like  those  of  the 
globe  artichoke ;  the  heads  are  of  a  green  color,  the  bottoms  are  not 
near  so  thick  of  flesh,  and  have  a  perfumed  taste,  which  to  many 
persons  is  very  disagreeable,  so  that  it  is  seldom  cultivated  where  the 
globe  kinds  can  be  procured. 

Of  the  second,  there  are  two  varieties,  the  green  and  the  red 
fruited,  both  extremely  fine.  The  head  is  globular,  a  little  com- 
pressed at  the  top,  the  scales  lie  close  over  each  other,  and  their  ends 
turn  inwards  so  as  closely  to  cover  the  middle. 

The  leaves  of  the  globe  artichoke  are  of  a  bluer  cast,  with  more 
and  deeper  jags  on  the  cliffs  than  those  of  the  French ;  they  have 
small  inert  prickles  like  the  latter  but  not  so  perceptible ;  the  leaves 
of  the  French  sort  are  larger,  much  wider,  and  of  a  paler  color.  The 
great  openness  of  the  scales  in  the  head  of  the  French  artichoke  is  a 
leading  character ;  it  also  rather  draws  up  to  a  point  in  the  middle, 
whereas,  the  globe  kind  is  quite  flat  at  top.  The  color  of  the  fruit, 
in  the  red  variety  of  the  globe  artichoke,  is  a  reddish-brown,  or  rather 
a  dusky  purple  with  a  tinge  of  green. 

After  the  above  descriptions  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  recommend 
which  kind  to  sow;  but  being  provided  with  good  fresh  seed  of  either 
sort  that  you  desire  to  cultivate,  prepare  a  piece  of  ground  as 
directed  for  the  young  plantations,  and  at  the  distances  there  men- 
tioned sow  a  few  grains  of  seed  in  each  spot  where  a  plant  might  be 
set,  covering  them  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep  with  light 
fine  earth ;  when  they  appear  keep  them  very  clean  and  free  from 
weeds  during  the  whole  summer  and  autumn,  and  in  November  you 
will  find  the  method  of  their  winter  treatment,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
old  plants.  Any  extra  plants  that  may  arise  are  to  be  transplanted 
into  new  beds  the  spring  following. 

In  the  course  of  the  season  you  may  have  crops  of  cauliflowers, 
cabbages,  dwarf-kidney  beans,  spinage,  lettuces,  &c.  &c.,  between  the 
rows;  keeping  them  at  a  sufficient  distance  from  the  young  arti- 
chokes, so  as  not  to  smother  or  cause  them  to  draw  up  weakly. 

Or  sow  these  seeds  in  a  bed  so  thin  as  you  may  expect  the  plants 


214  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

to  rise  at  the  distance  of  six  inches,  allowing  for  imperfect  seeds  and 
accidents,  cover  them  as  above,  and  in  the  spring  following  trans- 
plant them  as  before  directed. 

CARDOONS. 

The  cynara  cardunculus,  or  cardoon  artichoke,  has  been  a  long 
time  used  for  culinary  purposes,  such  as  for  salads,  soups,  stewing, 
&c. 

The  stalks  of  the  leaves  being  thick,  fleshy,  and  crisp,  are  the 
eatable  parts,  being  first  blanched  by  landing  them  up  like  celery,  to 
two  or  three  feet  high,  to  render  them  white,  tender,  and  of  an 
agreeable  flavor,  which  otherwise  would  be  rank  and  bitter;  they 
are  in  perfection  in  autumn  and  winter. 

Sow  the  seeds  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  or  beginning 
of  next,  broadcast,  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth,  and  cover  them  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep;  when  the  plants  are  three  inches 
high  thin  them  to  four  or  five  inches  distant,  that  they  may  not  be 
drawn  up  weak;  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  towards  the  latter 
end  of  May  or  beginning  of  June  they  will  be  fit  to  plant  where  they 
are  intended  to  remain  for  perfection.  For  their  further  treatment 
see  May,  &c. 

Or,  as  these  plants  are  rather  impatient  of  transplanting,  you  may 
sow  the  seeds  at  the  distances  directed  in  May  for  the  plants,  a  few 
seeds  in  each  spot,  and  as  they  advance  thin  them,  leaving  only  the 
best  plant  in  each  of  those  squares. 

ALEXANDERS,  OR  ALESANDERS. 

The  Smyrnium  olusatrum,  or  common  Alexanders,  are  used  for 
culinary  purposes  as  the  cardoons,  and  blanched  in  like  manner.  The 
whole  plant  is  of  a  strong,  warm,  and  aromatic  nature,  and  the  leaves 
and  seed  are  sometimes  used  for  medicine. 

The  seed  of  this  plant  should  be  sown  in  autumn  soon  after  it  is 
ripe,  for  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring,  few  of  them  will  come 
up  till  that  time  twelve  months;  however,  when  you  sow  the  seed  in 
spring,  let  it  be  done  as  early  as  possible,  and  sown  pretty  thick  in 
drills  eighteen  inches  asunder,  covering  the  seeds  near  an  inch  deep ; 
when  the  plants  are  up  thin  them  to  six  or  eight  inches  distant  in  the 
rows,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth  draw  the  earth  up  to  their  stems 
as  you  do  to  celery,  in  order  to  blanch  and  whiten  them,  that  they 
should  be  crisp  and  tender  for  autumn  and  winter  use;  in  the  spring 
following,  such  as  remain  will  shoot  out  again  vigorously,  let  the 
earth  then  be  hoed  up  close  to  each  plant,  and  in  three  or  four  weeks 
they  will  be  blanched  and  in  a  fine  condition  for  use. 

When  these  plants  are  desired  I  would  recommend  them  to  be 
sown  where  they  are  to  remain,  in  any  of  the  autumn  months ;  in 
that  case  they  will  rise  freely  in  spring,  and  become  fine  vigorous 
plants. 


MARCH]         THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  215 


PROPAGATING  VARIOUS  POT  AND  MEDICINAL  HERBS. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time  to  plant  cuttings 
or  slips  of  hyssop,  thyme,  winter  savory,  rue,  rosemary,  lavender, 
wormwood,  southern-wood,  sage,  and  any  other  under-shrubby  kinds; 
in  taking  off  the  slips  of  any  of  these  sorts  give  a  preference  to  the 
suckers  if  any,  that  is,  such  as  have  a  few  fibres  attached  to  them ; 
from  such  as  are  not  furnished  with  these,  take  off  slips  or  cuttings 
of  the  young  healthy  outward  shoots  produced  last  year,  from  about 
six  to  ten  inches  long,  according  as  they  occur,  observing  to  slip  or 
cut  them  clean  off  close  to  the  parts  from  whence  they  proceed.  Let 
these  be  planted  in  a  bed  or  border  six  inches  apart,  and  inserted 
two-thirds  of  their  lengths  into  the  ground;  they  will  take  root 
freely  by  observing  to  water  them  in  dry  weather,  and  in  September 
will  be  well  rooted,  and  may  either  then,  or  in  October,  be  trans- 
planted wherever  destined  to  remain ;  or  the  slips  may,  in  the  first 
instance,  be  planted  in  such  places. 

Propagate  tarragon,  tansy,  chamomile,  common  fennel,  marsh- 
mallows,  pot-marjoram,  baum,  burnet,  horehound,  spearmint,  pepper- 
mint, feverfew,  officinal  scurvy-grass,  catmint,  celadine,  pennyroyal, 
or  mentha  pulegium,  angelica,  lovage,  gromwell,  and  any  other  peren- 
nial herbaceous  plants,  and  also  thyme,  hyssop,  and  winter-savory, 
by  parting  their  roots  or  by  slips  therefrom ;  the  best  time  for  sepa- 
rating the  roots  of  each  and  every  of  the  above  kinds,  is  just  when 
they  begin  to  advance  a  little  in  growth.  All  the  above  kinds  may 
be  planted  in  four  feet  wide  beds,  in  any  tolerably  good  ground,  having 
twelve  to  eighteen  inch  alleys  between,  and  placed  in  rows  length- 
wise in  the  beds,  allowing  proportionate  distances  according  to  their 
respective  growths;  or  the  small  growing  kinds  may  be  planted  in 
borders,  or  any  other  convenient  places  that  are  open  and  well 
exposed. 

The  best  time  to  gather  any  of  the  preceding  kinds  for  distillation, 
or  to  preserve  in  a  dry  state  for  medicinal  purposes,  &c.,  is  when 
they  are  in  the  first  stage  of  their  flowering. 

You  may,  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  or  any  time  in  the 
next,  sow  seeds  of  either,  or  all  of  the  above  mentioned  kinds,  and 
also  of  the  following  annual  plants,  for  medicinal  and  culinary  pur- 
poses, viz:  borage,  sweet  fennel,  sweet  marjoram,  sweet  basil,  sum- 
mer savory,  fenugreek,  pot  marigold,  anise,  and  likewise  clary,  cara- 
way, smallage,  and  foxglove,  &c. ;  the  four  last  are  biennials  and  do 
not  flower  till  the  second  year,  but  their  leaves  may  be  used  at  any 
time  when  arrived  at  a  sufficient  size.  All  these  seeds  should  be  sown 
separately  in  beds  of  rich  earth,  and  covered  from  the  eighth  of  an 
inch  to  half  an  inch  deep  in  proportion  to  their  size,  either  in  the 
broadcast  way  or  in  drills,  or  the  low  growing  kinds  may  be  sown  in 
single  drills  along  the  edges  of  borders,  particularly  thyme,  hyssop, 
and  winter  savory,  &c.,  and  when  the  plants  are  arrived  at  a  sufficient 
size,  they  may  be  thinned  and  transplanted  into  any  beds  or  quarters 
that  can  be  spared  for  that  purpose. 


216  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 


DILL. 

This  plant  is  extremely  valuable  as  an  ingredient  in  pickles,  to 
which  it  gives  a  most  exquisite  flavor :  the  seeds  when  ripe  are  fre- 
quently used  for  that  purpose,  but  it  is  the  more  general  practice  when 
they  are  formed,  and  not  yet  perfect,  to  cut  off  the  umbels  or  heads, 
and  then  use  them  as  above. 

This  seed  should  be  sown  in  any  of  the  autumn  months  after  being 
ripe,  and  will  come  up  the  spring  following,  for  when  kept  out  of 
ground  till  the  latter  period,  one-third  of  it  and  perhaps  less,  will  not 
vegetate  till  that  time  twelve  months,  but  if  sown  very  early  in  March, 
and  thick,  you  may  expect  a  tolerable  crop  that  season ;  sow  it  broad- 
cast on  four  feet  wide  beds,  covering  it,  if  sown  in  autumn,  half  an 
inch,  and  if  in  spring,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  when  the  plants 
come  up,  thin  them  to  six  inches  distant,  and  the  same  season  they 
will  perfect  their  seeds,  which,  if  any  are  suffered  to  shed,  will  not 
fail  to  come  up  plentifully  the  next  year. 

FINOCHIO,  OR  AZORIAN  FENNEL. 

The  Finochio  has  very  short  stalks,  which  swell  just  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground  to  three  or  four  inches  in  breadth,  and  near 
two  thick,  being  fleshy  and  tender ;  this  is  the  part  which  is  eaten 
when  blanched  with  oil,  vinegar  and  pepper  as  a  cold  salad. 

For  the  cultivation  of  this  plant,  make  choice  of  a  good  spot  of 
light  rich  earth,  not  dry  nor  very  wet,  for  in  either  extreme  it  will 
not  thrive.  Sow  the  seeds  pretty  thin  in  shallow  drills  about  eigh- 
teen inches  asunder,  covering  them  half  an  inch  deep ;  when  they 
come  up  thin  them,  leaving  the  best  plants  six  inches  distant  from 
one  another :  about  the  beginning  of  July  your  first  crop,  if  sown  in 
March,  will  be  fit  for  blanching,  at  which  time  you  are  to  earth  it  up 
as  you  do  celery,  and  in  three  weeks  after  it  will  be  in  a  good  condi- 
tion for  use.  To  have  a  regular  succession  of  this  plant,  some  seed 
must  be  sown  every  three  weeks  during  the  season,  and  your  late 
crops  may  be  preserved  in  winter  as  you  do  celery. 

CAPSICUMS   OR  RED-PEPPERS,  TOMATOES,  AND   EGG-PLANTS. 

The  different  varieties  of  the  capsicums,  tomatoes,  and  egg-plants 
being  in  much  estimation  for  culinary  purposes,  you  should  sow  some 
of  each  kind  now  in  pots,  and  forward  them  in  your  hot-beds,  so  as 
to  have  strong  plants  ready  for  planting  out  into  the  open  ground  as 
early  in  May  as  the  night  frosts  shall  have  totally  disappeared.  Each 
and  every  of  these  kinds  bear  transplanting  extremely  well,  and  from 
this  sowing  you  may  expect  early  and  abundant  crops.  For  further 
particulars,  see  April,  May,  &c. 

PLANTING  OUT  CABBAGES,  BEETS,  TURNIPS,  ETC.,  FOR  SEEDS. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  the  weather  gets  open  and  tolerably 
mild,  plant  out  such  cabbages,  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  pursneps,  &c., 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  2H 

as  you  have  preserved  during  the  winter  to  raise  seed  from ;  the  cab- 
bages are  to  be  planted  in  rows  four  feet  asunder,  one  foot  distant 
from  each  other  in  the  rows,  and  up  to  their  heads  in  the  earth ;  the 
others  may  be  planted  in  four  feet  wide  beds,  at  the  distance  of  ten 
or  twelve  inches  root  from  root,  or  in  rows  at  pleasure ;  observing  to 
tie  up  the  shoots  to  stakes  placed  for  that  purpose,  as  they  advance 
for  seeding,  to  prevent  their  being  broken  down  by  winds,  heavy 
rains,  &o. 

PLANTING  POTATOES. 

Potatoes  may  now  be  planted  for  an  early  crop  as  soon  as  the  wea- 
ther opens,  and  the  frost  is  entirely  out  of  the  ground;  let  the  soil 
in  which  you  plant  them  be  moderately  light,  a  little  enriched  with 
dung,  and  advantageously  situated. 

Be  careful  to  procure  the  earliest  kinds,  from  which  select  a  quan- 
tity of  the  best  formed  and  soundest  roots,  and  of  a  tolerable  size ; 
these  are  to  be  cut  into  sets,  a  week  before  planting,  in  order  that  the 
wounds  should  have  time  to  form  a  dry  crust ;  for  if  planted  at  this 
season  immediately  after  being  cut,  they  would  imbibe  too  much 
moisture,  many  of  them  rot,  and  all  would  be  greatly  weakened 
thereby ;  cut  each  root  into  two,  three  or  more  pieces,  according  to 
their  size ;  minding  particularly  that  each  cut  be  furnished  with  one 
or  two  good  eyes  or  buds,  which  is  sufficient.  They  are  then  to  be 
planted  in  rows  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder,  the  sets  to  be  nine  inches 
distant  in  the  row,  and  three  or  four  inches  deep.  Should  severe 
frost  ensue  protect  them  by  laying  some  long  litter  or  wispy  dung 
over  the  drills. 


HORSERADISH. 

This  plant  is  cultivated  by  cuttings  of  the  root,  either  cut  from  the 
top  an  inch  or  two  long,  or  some  old  roots  cut  into  pieces  of  that 
length,  or  by  small  offsets  that  arise  from  the  sides  of  the  main  root, 
retaining  the  crowns  or  top  shoots  on  as  many  as  possible. 

Being  furnished  with  these  sets,  choose  in  an  open  situation  a  light 
and  rich  soil,  which  trench  regularly  two  spades  deep,  at  the  same 
time  giving  it  a  good  dressing  of  manure ;  then  beginning  at  one 
end  of  the  ground,  range  a  line,  and  with  a  large  dibble  make  holes 
about  ten  inches  deep,  all  of  an  equal  depth  and  about  six  inches 
asunder,  dropping  as  you  go  on,  one  set  or  cutting  into  each  hole,  with 
the  crown  upright,  taking  care  to  fill  or  close  the  holes  up  properly 
with  the  earth,  and  let  the  rows  be  two  feet  asunder.  Or  you  may 
plant  them  as  you  advance  in  the  digging  or  trenching  of  the  ground, 
at  the  same  depth  and  distances,  covering  each  row  when  set  in  with 
the  earth  of  the  next  course,  and  so  proceed  till  all  are  planted. 
After  this,  level  the  surface  of  the  ground  even,  observing  to  keep 
it  free  from  weeds  until'  the  plants  are  so  far  advanced  as  to  be  strong 
enough  to  overbear  and  keep  them  down. 

With  this  management  the  roots  will  be  long,  straight,  and  free 
from  many  small  lateral  offsets,  and  the  second'  year  after  planting 


218  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

will  be  fit  for  use.  It  is  true  they  may  be  taken  up  the  first  year, 
but  then  the  roots  will  be  slender;  therefore  it  is  the  better  way  to 
let  them  remain  till  the  second,  when  they  will  be  in  a  fine  condition ; 
and  if  in  taking  up  the  roots  you  take  care  to  leave  some  offsets  still 
remaining,  you  will  have  a  successional  supply  for  many  years. 

LIQUORICE. 

The  glycyrrhiza  glabra,  or  cultivated  liquorice,  is  a  plant  that 
brings  enormous  profit  to  the  industrious  cultivator :  it  is  of  consider- 
able importance  in  medicine,  and  consequently  in  great  demand  by 
the  druggists  and  apothecaries ;  and  also  by  porter  brewers,  being  a 
very  material  ingredient  in  that  article.  Of  4000  quintals,  or  nearly 
two  hundred  tons,  annually  exported  from  Spain,  the  far  greater  part 
is  considered  to  be  purchased  by  the  porter  brewers  of  London. 
About  Pontefract,  in  Yorkshire,  England,  where  it  is  cultivated  in 
great  perfection,  an  acre  of  well-grown  liquorice  is  considered  to  be 
worth  one  hundred  pounds  sterling ;  therefore,  due  attention  should 
be  paid  to  its  culture  in  the  United  States,  where  it  will  grow  to  the 
greatest  possible  perfection ;  thereby  to  prevent  the  necessity  of  im- 
porting large  quantities  of  it  annually  from  Europe,  at  a  considerable 
expense,  and  in  a  much  inferior  condition  to  what  it  could  be  had  if 
cultivated  at  home.  In  hopes  that  this  may  be  attempted  by  some 
spirited  persons,  who  may  have  the  welfare  of  their  country,  as  well 
as  their  own  at  heart,  I  shall  proceed  to  give  the  method  of  bringing 
this  valuable  plant  to  the  utmost  perfection. 

The  liquorice  delights  in  a  light  sandy  rich  soil,  which  should  be 
three  feet  deep  at  least,  for  the  goodness  as  well  as  the  profits  arising 
from  the  culture  of  this  plant  is  proportionate  to  the  size  and  length 
of  its  roots.  The  ground  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  it  should  be 
highly  manured  and  well  dug  the  autumn  before,  that  the  dung  may 
be  perfectly  rotted  and  mixed  with  the  earth.  Immediately  previous 
to  planting,  trench  the  ground  three  spades  deep,  if  the  natural  soil 
be  good  that  depth,  and  lay  it  very  light.  When  your  ground  is 
thus  prepared  you  should  furnish  yourself  with  fresh  plants,  taken 
from  the  sides  or  heads  of  the  old  roots,  observing  that  each  has  one 
or  two  good  buds  or  eyes,  otherwise  they  are  subject  to  miscarry. 
These  plants  should  be  from  six  to  ten  inches  long,  and  perfectly 
sound. 

The  best  season  for  planting  them  in  the  middle  States  is  the  latter 
end  of  March,  or  just  when  their  buds  begin  to  show  symptoms  of 
fresh  vegetation,  which  must  be  done  in  the  following  manner,  viz : 
first  strain  a  line  across  the  ground,  then  with  a  long  dibble  put  in 
the  roots  so  that  the  whole  plant  may  be  set  straight  in  the  ground, 
with  the  top  about  an  inch  under  the  surface,  in  a  straight  line,  and 
about  a  foot  or  a  little  more  asunder,  and  two  feet  distance  from  row 
to  row.  You  may  then  sow  a  thin  crop  of  radishes,  onions,  lettuces, 
or  any  other  small-growing  crops,  in  drills,  between  the  rows,  keep- 
ing the  whole  clean,  particularly  the  rising  plants  of  liquorice,  during 
the  summer  and  autumn.  In  the  November  following,  you  should 
carefully  hoe  and  clean  the  ground.  The  shoots  and  leaves  being 


MARCH]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  219 

then  decayed,  cut  them  off  and  spread  a  little  rotten  dung  on  the 
surface,  the  virtue  of  which  will  be  washed  into  the  ground  by  the 
rains,  and  the  plants  greatly  improved  thereby. 

In  the  March  following  you  should  slightly  dig  the  ground  be- 
tween the  rows,  burying  the  remaining  part  of  the  dung;  but  in 
doing  this  you  should  be  careful  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Let  nothing 
now  be  either  sowed  or  planted  between  the  rows,  but  keep  them 
always  clean ;  and  in  autumn,  when  the  stalks  of  the  liquorice  are 
decayed,  cut  them  down  close  to  the  surface  of  the  earth  as  before. 

The  same  work  is  to  be  repeated  annually  till  the  plants  are  three 
years  old,  when  they  will  be  fit  for  taking  up — that  is,  slightly  stir 
the  ground  every  spring  and  autumn,  keeping  down  the  weeds  in 
summer  by  hoeing — but  after  the  first  or  second  year  the  stalks  will 
shoot  so  vigorously  as  soon  to  cover  the  ground  and  greatly  retard 
the  growth  of  weeds. 

The  proper  season  for  taking  up  the  roots  is  November,  for  they 
should  not  be  taken  up  until  the  stalks  are  fully  decayed,  nor  defer- 
red till  the  sap  begins  to  circulate  afresh  in  spring,  for  in  either  case 
the  roots  would  be  apt  to  shrivel  and  diminish  in  weight,  which 
would  be  a  loss  to  the  cultivator,  as  it  is  by  weight  they  are  always 
sold. 

The  method  of  taking  up  the  roots  is  by  trenching  the  ground, 
beginning  at  one  side  and  opening  a  trench  close  to  the  first  row, 
three  spades  deep,  or  to  the  depth  of  the  roots,  at  which  work  three 
or  four  spadesmen  are  generally  employed  at  a  trench.  One  goes  on 
with  the  top  spit,  a  second  with  the  next,  and  another  with  the  third, 
and  the  fourth  commonly  gets  to  the  bottom  of  the  roots,  having  a 
mattock  to  assist  him  occasionally  to  clear  them.  As  he  takes  them 
up  he  throws  them  on  the  top  of  the  ground,  and  in  this  manner 
they  proceed  from  row  to  row  till  the  whole  plantation  is  taken  up. 

The  small  side  roots  are  then  trimmed  off,  the  best  divided  into 
lengths  for  fresh  sets,  which  are  to  be  carefully  preserved  in  earth 
till  the  time  of  planting,  if  not  planted  immediately,  and  the  main 
roots  are  washed  clean,  dried,  and  tied  in  bundles  for  sale. 

When  liquorice  is  intended  to  be  cultivated  on  a  large  scale,  the 
rows  may  be  planted  three  feet  distant,  and  the  labor  of  hoeing  per- 
formed with  a  small  plough. 

If  not  sold  immediately  after  having  been  taken  up,  the  cultivator 
must  be  careful  not  to  suffer  them  to  be  put  together  in  large  quan- 
tities, lest  they  should  become  mouldy,  as  this  vegetable,  unless  pre- 
served in  a  dry  place,  is  very  liable  to  such  corruption. 

RHUBARB. 

There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  but  the  rheum  palmatum, 
or  true  officinal  rhubarb,  is  that  which  merits  particular  attention. 
It  is  a  native  of  China  and  Russian  Tartary,  has  braved  the  climate 
of  St.  Petersburg,  grows  to  good  perfection  in  Scotland,  as  far  north 
as  Perthshire  (lat.  56°);  also  in  England,  Turkey,  and.  various  other 
parts  of  Europe;  is  an  article  of  considerable  consumption,  conse- 
quently of  national  importance,  and  highly  deserving  of  attention  in 


220  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

the  United  States.  It  grows  to  the  greatest  possible  perfection 
among  the  Tartarian  mountains,  from  Selin  to  Thibet,  without  any 
other  culture  than  what  is  afforded  by  the  scraping  of  the  Marmots ; 
and  shall  we  despair  of  bringing  it  to  perfection  where  soil  and  cli- 
mate are  perfectly  congenial,  and  nothing  wanted  but  the  enterprise 
of  a  few  spirited  individuals  to  make  a  commencement  ?  There  is 
no  doubt  «that  if  the  culture  cf  this  and  liquorice  were  duly  attended 
to  that  the  crops  would  more  than  amply  repay  the  cultivators ; 
and  although  a  partiality  to  articles  of  customary  culture  is  in  the 
way,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  new  and  necessary  plants  will,  from  time 
to  time,  be  introduced  and  cultivated  with  advantage  to  the  indi- 
viduals and  the  nation  at  large. 

The  following  is  the  mode  of  its  culture  :  Having  procured  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  seed  of  the  true  kind,  select  a  piece  of  light  rich 
sandy  loam,  such  as  answers  for  asparagus,  and  after  giving  it  a  good 
coat  of  manure,  trench  it  two  or  three  spades  deep,  if  the  good  soil 
admits ;  after  which,  level  the  top  neatly  and  lay  it  out  by  line  into 
squares  of  four  feet,  at  the  angles  or  intersections  of  which  you  are 
to  form  little  circles  with  your  finger  about  six  or  eight  inches  in 
diameter,  and  on  each  scatter  a  few  seeds,  then  cover  them  with  light 
fine  mould  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep.  The  seeds  should  be 
sown  as  early  in  spring  as  possible,  or,  if  this  had  been  done  in  No- 
vember, they  would  vegetate  in  spring  with  more  certainty.  When 
the  young  plants  appear,  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  in  dry 
weather  give  them  frequently  a  little  water,  but  not  much  at  a  time; 
and  above  all  things  protect  them  from  the  mid- day  sun  till  they  get 
considerably  strong,  for,  if  exposed  fully  to  this,  during  their  infant 
state,  few  of  them  would  escape  destruction  thereby.  Were  you  to 
place  a  piece  of  board  on  end,  about  fifteen  inches  broad  and  two  feet 
and  a  half  high,  at  the  south  side  of  each  hill,  leaning  a  little  over 
the  plants,  this  would  answer  the  end  effectually  without  depriving 
them  of  the  benefit  of  the  circulating  air.  The  first  season  is  their 
critical  period,  having  survived  that  they  have  nothing  to  fear  after- 
wards. Onions,  lettuces,  or  any  other  low-growing  crops  may  be 
either  sown  or  planted  in  the  intervals  for  the  first  year,  so  that  they 
are  kept  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  young  plants.  The  supernu- 
merary plants,  one  being  sufficient  to  be  left  in  each  of  these  places 
for  ultimate  perfection,  may  be  transplanted  the  spring  following 
into  new  plantations,  similarly  prepared  and  at  the  same  distance. 

The  November  following,  all  the  leaves  being  then  decayed,  cover 
the  crowns  of  the  plants  two  inches  deep  with  earth  from  the  inter- 
vals ;  and  if  there  is  danger  of  any  wet  lodging,  throw  up  trenches, 
rounding  the  beds  as  is  commonly  done  to  asparagus,  and  for  the 
first  winter,  lay  some  dry  litter  over  the  plants.  In  the  March  fol- 
lowing, strip  the  covering  till  you  just  perceive  the  tops  of  the  plants, 
give  all  the  ground  a  slight  digging  and  dress  it  neatly  after  you, 
observing  to  keep  the  beds  well  hoed,  and  always  free  from  weeds. 

Thus  proceed  every  autumn  and  spring,  till  the  roots  have  four 
years'  growth,  when  some  of  them  may  be  taken  up  for  use;  but  it 
is  generally  admitted  that  their  medicinal  virtues  increase  until  they 
are  eight  or  ten  years  old. 


MARCH]         THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  221 

You  must  be  very  circumspect  in  the  choice  of  ground;  particu- 
larly, that  it  is  Dot  subject  to  lodge  wet,  for  this  plant  by  no  means 
agrees  with  too  much  moisture,  preferring  a  rich  dry  sandy  loam  to 
any  other  Idnd  of  soil. 

Rhubarb  may  also  be  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  old  roots,  or 
by  sowing  the  seed  in  seed-beds,  and  transplanting  them  when  a  year 
old  into  such  beds  and  at  the  same  distances  as  before  directed  for 
sowing  the  seed;  but  they  always  produce  larger  and  better  roots 
when  sown  where  they  are  to  remain. 

The  proper  time  to  take  up  the  roots  for  use  in  autumn,  after  the 
leaves  and  stalks  are  totally  decayed ;  when  taken  .up,  wash  them 
clean,  trim  off  the  small  fibres,  and  lay  them  in  an  airy  place  to  dry, 
for  four  days,  then  rasp  off  the  outward  skin,  which  greatly  obstructs 
the  quickness  of  drying,  from  the  pores  not  being  laid  open  for  the 
herbaceous  moisture  to  exhale ;  the  mere  stripping  off  the  bark  will 
not  be  sufficient,  the  rasping  it  off,  and  the  lacerating  of  the  outward 
part  of  the  root  adjoining  it  will  be  necessary;  for  the  lateral  pores 
must  be  opened  to  permit  the  confined  watery  fluid  to  exude  freely. 
Then  cut  them  in  slices,  which  string  on  pack-thread  so  as  not  to 
touch,  and  hang  them  up  in  a  stove-room,  to  be  kept  constantly 
warm  till  they  are  effectually  dry.  Should  the  season  even  prove 
hot  enough  for  drying  them  in  the  sun,  the  former  method  would  be 
preferable,  for,  by  exposing  them  so  much  to  the  sun  and  light,  they 
would  be  greatly  impaired  in  the  color,  and  perhaps  some  of  their 
finer  parts  dissipated  thereby ;  but  culinary  heat  is  free  from  that 
objection,  and  at  the  same  time  possesses  all  the  advantages  of  quick 
drying.  The  drying  of  the  roots,  without  suffering  them  to  get 
mouldy,  must  be  carefully  attended  to,  as  a  neglect  in  this  point 
would  render  all  your  former  industry  fruitless,  and  it  is  considered 
among  the  cultivators  as  a  difficult  task. 

The  marks  of  the  goodness  of  rhubarb  are,  the  liveliness  of  its 
color  when  cut ;  its  being  firm  and  solid,  but  not  flinty  or  hard ;  its 
being  easily  pulverable,  and  appearing,  when  powdered,  of  a  bright 
yellow  color ;  on  being  chewed,  its  imparting  to  the  spittle  a  deep 
saffron  tinge,  and  not  proving  slimy  or  mucilaginous  in  the  mouth. 

The  true  officinal  or  palmated  rhubarb  has  numerous  root-leaves, 
large,  rough,  of  a  roundish  figure,  deeply  cut  into  lobes  and  irregu- 
larly pointed  segments  on  long,  smooth,  round  footstalks.  Stem- 
leaves,  one  at  each  joint,  issuing  from  a  membranous  sheath  suc- 
cessively smaller  upwards.  Flowers  surrounding  the  branches  in 
numerous  clusters,  and  forming  a  kind  of  spike.  Corolla  or  flowers 
of  a  greenish-white. 

The  species  cannot  be  mistaken  if  you  attend  to  its  superior  height, 
the  ferruginous  or  reddish-brown  color  of  the  stem  branches  and 
petioles  or  leafstalks,  the  particular  palmate  form  of  the  leaves,  and 
the  elegant  looseness  of  the  little  panicles  of  flowers  which  display 
themselves  on  erect,  round,  hollow,  jointed,  slightly  scored  stems 
branching  towards  the  top,  and  from  six  to  eight  feet  high. 


222  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH 


THE  RHEUM  RHAPONTICUM,  OR  COMMON  RHUBARB. 


This  has  a  large  thick  root,  which  divides  into  many  strong  fleshy 
fangs,  running  deep  into  the  ground ;  the  outside  of  a  reddish-brown 
color,  and  the  inside  yellow,  from  which  arise  several  leaves,  in  num- 
ber according  to  the  size  of  the  root;  those  come  up  folded  in  the 
spring,  and  afterwards  expand  themselves ;  they  are  smooth,  of  a 
roundish  heart  shape,  having  very  thick  footstalks  of  a  reddish 
color,  which  are  a  little  channelled  on  their  lower  part,  but  flat  at 
the  top.  When  the  plant  grows  on  very  rich  land,  the  footstalks  of 
the  leaves  are  over  two  feet  long,  and  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist;  the 
leaves  also  are  often  three  feet  long,  and  as  much  in  breadth,  having 
several  strong  longitudinal  veins  running  from  the  footstalk  to  the 
borders  of  a  deep  green,  and  waved  on  their  edges,  having  an  acid 
taste,  but  particularly  the  footstalks,  which  are  very  frequently  used, 
and  much  esteemed  for  tarts  and  pies.  The  flower-stalks  grow  from 
four  to  five  feet  high,  and  are  terminated  by  thick,  close  spikes  of 
white  flowers.  Its  roots  afford  a  gentle  purge,  but  is  of  much  infe- 
rior quality  to  the  former,  and  may  be  cultivated  the  same  way  as 
directed  for  that.  The  best  varieties  are  Hyatt's  Victoria  and  Lin- 
naeus, and  Cohoon's  Seedling. 

TART  RHUBARB  (RHEUM  RHAPONTICUM). 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  this  month  in  a  rich  sandy  soil ;  and  if 
the  plants  come  up  too  thick,  thin  them;  a  good  method  for  doing  so 
is  to  let  them  stand  in  stools  four  feet  distant  every  way,  two  or  three 
plants  in  each,  as  it  is  more  convenient  for  blanching,  which  is  very 
easily  done  in  the  following  manner :  clear  the  ground  around  them 
from  the  old  leaves  or  stems,  place  a  large  size  flower-pot  or  small  keg 
over  each  stool,  and  then  cover  it  about  two  feet  thick  all  around  with 
good  warm  manure,  and  it  will  be  finely  blanched  by  the  beginning 
of  May.  Or  the  old  plants  may  be  bedded  in  soil  in  a  warm  cellar, 
before  winter,  in  which  case  it  may  be  had  much  earlier  for  use. 
The  plants  for  this  purpose  should  be  three  years  old.  Many  persons 
do  not  take  this  trouble,  but  it  will  more  than  repay,  being  much 
greater  in  quantity  and  better  in  quality  than  if  suffered  to  grow 
naturally,  and  the  stalks  used  without  blanching.  It  is  much  more 
esteemed  now  for  pies  and  tarts  than  formerly,  and  is  considered  very 
wholesome  for  children :  in  many  parts  of  England  it  is  stewed  and 
used  as  apple  butter  is  here. 

THE  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 

The  helianthus  tulerosus,  or  tuberous-rooted  sunflower,  commonly 
called  the  Jerusalem  artichoke.  "This  root/'  says  Parkinson,  an 
ancient  English  writer,  "our  ancestors  boiled  tender,  and  then  being 
peeled,  ate  them  sliced  and  stewed  with  butter,  wine  and  spices — 
thus  they  were  a  dainty  for  a  queen,  being  as  pleasant  as  the  bottom 
of  an  artichoke;''  hence  probably  that  name  originated,  as  they  bear 
not  the  least  resemblance  in  growth  to  an  artichoke. 


MARCH]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  223 

The  roots  being  the  eatable  part,  are  large  fleshy  tubers,  much  re- 
sembling a  potato,  are  in  perfection  in  autumn  and  all  the  winter, 
and  are  wholesome  palatable  food  when  properly  dressed. 

They  are  raised  by  sets  or  cuttings  of  the  root,  preparing  the  sets 
and  planting  them  as  directed  for  potatoes,  in  rows  three  feet  asunder, 
four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  eighteen  inches  distant  from  one  another 
in  the  rows :  they  increase  abundantly,  will  thrive  in  any  tolerable 
soil,  and  cannot  easily  be  got  out  of  the  ground  again,  for  the  least 
bit  will  grow.  It  is  a  native  of  Brazil,  and  a  striking  instance  of 
how  tropical  productions  may  gradually  and  successfully  be  intro- 
duced and  naturalized  in  colder  climates. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

This  is  a  very  principal  month  in  the  southern  States  for  garden- 
ing; all  manner  of  work  hitherto  directed,  may  now  be  performed 
there  successfully.  In  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  they  may  now 
sow  the  seeds  of  melons,  cucumbers,  squashes,  tomatoes,  egg-plants, 
okras,  red  peppers,  &c.,  as  directed  in  the  kitchen  garden  for  April 
and  May. 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN. 

PRUNING  PEARS,  PLUMS,  CHERRIES,  APPLES,  ETC. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible  finish  pruning  your  cherries  and 
plums,  also  your  apple  and  pear-trees  before  the  end  thereof,  whether 
as  espaliers,  standards,  or  wall  trees.  Peaches,  nectarines,  apricots, 
almonds,  quinces,  &c.,  should  also  be  pruned  early  in  the  month,  if 
not  done  before.  For  the  particular  method  of  pruning  espalier  and 
wall  trees,  see  the  Fruit  Garden  for  January  and  February,  pages 
32  and  142;  and  for  that  of  the  standards,  the  Orchard,  pages  57, 
150,  &c.  This  should  be  particularly  attended  to,  and  the  pruning 
of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  finished  before  their  buds  begin  to  push. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  YOUNG  APRICOT,  NECTARINE,  AND  PEACH- 
TREES,  ETC.,  FOR  ESPALIERS  AND  WALLS. 

Now  is  the  only  proper  time  to  head  down  young  wall  or  espalier 
trees,  &c.,  preparatory  to  their  first  training;  such  as  apricot,  peach, 
and  nectarine-trees  planted  against  espaliers  or  walls  any  time  since 
last  October  with  their  first  shoots,  from  budding  at  full  length, 
which,  when  a  year  old,  should  always  be  headed  down  low,  to  force 
out  lower  branches  to  furnish  the  wall  or  espalier  properly,  quite 
from  the  bottom. 

This  should  be  done  just  as  the  trees  begin  to  swell  their  buds ; 
therefore  watch  the  opportunity,  and  let  them  be  headed  accordingly 
at  the  proper  time. 


224  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

The  heads  should  be  cut  down  to  about  five,  six,  or  seven  eyes 
or  buds  from  the  bottom ;  and  if  there  are  two  shoots  from  the  same 
stock  let  them  both  be  cut  down  as  above. 

By  this  practice  the  trees  will  produce  some  strong  shoots  near  the 
ground,  whereby  they  will  be  furnished  equally  with  branches  from 
the  bottom  -to  the  top  of  the  wall  or  espalier.  But  if  the  trees  were 
not  to  be  headed  down  as  above,  they  would  run  up  with  a  stem  like 
a  standard  tree,  and  not  furnish  any  branches  below,  within  two  or 
three  feet  of  the  bottom;  whereby  the  use  of  such  part  of  the  espalier 
or  wall  would  be  lost. 

Such  young  apricot,  peach,  and  nectarine-trees  as  were  headed 
down  a  year  ago,  and  having  each  produced  three,  four,  or  more 
shoots  the  last  summer,  should  now  have  these  shortened  to  such 
length  as  may  encourage  each  shoot  to  produce  two  or  three  new  ones 
the  same  season. 

The  method  is  this  :  let  each  shoot  be  shortened  generally  in  some 
degree  of  proportion  to  its  strength ;  in  some  pruning  off  about  one- 
half  or  third  of  their  original  length ;  and  in  others  a  little  more  or 
less,  according  to  circumstances  of  growth  and  situation  of  the  trees; 
as  for  instance,  shoots  of  about  two  feet  may  be  cut  to  ten,  twelve, 
or  fifteen  inches,  or  a  little  longer  in  strong  growths ;  for  the  strongest 
shoots  should  always  be  left  the  longest;  and  those  about  twelve  to 
fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  pruned  to  six,  eight,  ten,  or  twelve  inches 
in  length;  and  so  in  proportion  to  the  different  lengths  and  degrees 
of  strength,  and  particular  situation  of  the  respective  shoots.  (See 
January,  &c.) 

By  this  practice  each  of  these  shoots  will  probably  produce  two, 
three,  or  four  new  shoots  the  succeeding  summer,  so  that  by  October 
each  young  tree,  so  treated,  will  be  furnished  with  from  twelve  or 
fifteen  to  eighteen  or  twenty  shoots,  or  more. 

The  trees  may  then  be  pruned  according  to  the  method  directed 
for  the  older  trees  of  that  sort,  observing  still  to  shorten  the  young 
shoots,  but  in  such  a  manner  as  they  may  both  produce  fruit  and  a 
supply  of  young  wood,  as  in  the  full-bearing  trees  aforesaid ;  that  is, 
generally  to  prune  the  weaker  shoots  about  one-half,  the  stronger 
ones  prune  about  a  third  or  fourth  of  their  length,  according  to 
strength  and  where  situated,  and  the  situation  of  the  blossom  and 
wood-buds  on  the  respective  shoots;  then  nail  them  straight  and 
close  to  the  walls,  or  tie  them  to  the  espalier  with  willow  twigs,  &c., 
three  or  four  to  five  or  six  inches  asunder.  (See  Fruit  Garden  in 
January,  &c.) 

PRUNING  AND   TRAINING  YOUNG  APPLE,  PEAR,  PLUM,  AND   CHERRY- 
TREES  FOR  ESPALIERS  AND  WALLS. 

Any  young  dwarf  apple,  pear,  plum,  and  cherry-trees,  lately 
planted  against  walls  or  espaliers,  &c.,  or  still  remaining  in  the  nursery 
with  their  first  shoots,  of  only  a  year  or  two  old  entire,  should  now 
be  pruned  down  to  a  few  eyes  that  they  may  put  out  some  good 
shoots  near  the  ground,  to  furnish  the  bottom  of  the  wall  or  espalier 
therewith. 


MARCH]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  225 

If  the  heads  of  these  trees  are  but  one  year's  growth  from  the  bud 
or  graft,  let  them  be  shortened  to  four  or  five  eyes ;  observing  to  do 
it  just  as  they  begin  to  form  buds  for  shooting. 

Suppose  they  are  two  years  from  the  bud  or  graft,  and  the  first 
shoots  were  cut  down,  as  above,  last  spring;  let  the  shoots  which  were 
produced  from  them  the  last  summer  be  also  shortened  now  to  six, 
eight,  or  ten  inches. 

The  same  rule  holds  good  with  these  at  first  training  as  mentioned 
for  the  apricots  and  peaches;  for  it  is  on  shortening  properly  the  first 
and  second  year's  shoots,  from  the  budding  and  grafting,  that  the 
whole  success  depends  for  forming  a  useful  and  handsome  tree ;  as 
when  a  young  wall  or  espalier  tree  is  well  furnished  with  branches 
near  the  ground,  these  will  readily  supply  you  with  more,  in  their 
turn,  to  furnish  the  wall  or  espalier  upwards. 

But  in  the  common  course  of  pruning  apples,  pears,  plums,  and 
cherries,  their  shoots  and  branches  are  not  to  be  shortened;  for  after 
the  young  trees  are  furnished  with  a  proper  supply  of  branches  below, 
their  shoots  must  then  be  trained  to  the  wall  at  full  length,  only 
shortening  particular  shoots  when  more  wood  may  be  required  to 
furnish  that  part,  or  where  they  grow  too  crowded;  as  directed  in 
page  34;  &c. 

PRUNING  FIG-TREES. 

Some  prune  fig-trees  the  latter  end  of  autumn,  which  is  a  very 
wrong  practice,  where  severe  winter  frosts  are  prevalent;  as  the 
young  shoots,  which  are  the  only  bearing  wood,  are  liable  to  be  killed 
in  hard  winters.  If  they  were  pruned  in  that  season,  and  no  more 
left  than  what  might  then  appear  necessary,  and  severe  frosts  after- 
wards destroy  many  of  them,  you  would  have  no  resource  left. 

Therefore  the  better  way  is  to  let  the  trees  remain  unpruned  till 
this  time,  and  if  some  have  been  killed  by  the  severity  of  the  win- 
ter, there  will  be  a  chance,  from  among  the  whole,  to  find  a  suffi- 
ciency for  your  purpose,  that  have  escaped.  Observing,  however, 
that  the  sooner  this  work  is  done,  after  the  severe  frosts  are  over, 
the  better;  for  if  delayed  too  long  the  trees  would  bleed,  and  be  in- 
jured thereby;  but  in  the  southern  States  the  late  autumn  pruning 
is  preferable. 

Fig-trees  agree  with,  and  in  fact  require,  great  heat;  consequently 
in  the  eastern  and  middle  States  they  will  thrive  and  bear  better 
when  planted  against  walls,  board  fences,  or-  espaliers,  in  warm  ex- 
posures; therefore  I  shall  give  the  method  of  pruning  and  training 
them  to  such. 

In  those  southern  States  where  they  grow  in  the  open  standard 
way,  they  need  no  other  pruning  than  keeping  each  on  a  neat  single 
stem  free  from  suckers,  cutting  out  any  dead  or  ill  placed  wood,  thin- 
ning the  young  shoots  where  too  crowded,  but  never  topping  any. 

In  pruning  fig-trees,  you  must  leave  a  sufficient  supply  of  the 

last  summer's  shoots  from  the  bottom  to  the  extremity  every  way,  in 

all  parts  where  possible;  and  prune  out  the  ill-placed  and  superfluous 

shoots  thereof,  with  parts  of  the  old  bearers  and  long  extended  naked 

15 


226  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

old  wood,  to  have  due  room  to  train  the  proper  shoots,  so  that  the 
tree  may  be  equally  furnished  with  a  succession  of  young  bearers  at 
moderate  distances;  for  these  young  shoots  bear  the  figs  the  ensuing 
season;  fig-trees  always  producing  their  fruit  on  the  one  year  old 
wcrod  only. 

Leave  the  branches  and  shoots  in  general  about  five  to  six  or  seven 
inches  asunder,  all  at  full  length ;  being  careful  to  prefer  the  best 
middling  strong  shoots  to  retain  for  general  bearers,  cutting  out  the 
improper,  superabundant,  and  useless  old  wood,  quite  close;  pruning 
out  any  very  rampant  young  wood,  excessive  long-jointed  shoots,  or 
very  slender  infirm  growths,  leaving  the  most  promising  and  firm  to 
supply  the  general  expansion. 

Take  care  always  to  train  in  every  year  some  young  shoots,  at  or 
near  the  bottom,  that  there  may  by  a  succession  coming  up  regularly 
one  after  another,  to  supply  the  places  of  casual,  long,  old,  naked 
branches,  which  will  occur  every  season  in  some  part  or  other  of  the 
tree;  for  such  long-extended  naked  old  branches  or  others,  not  fur- 
nished properly  with  young  wood,  should  now  be  cut  out,  that  there 
may  be  sufficient  room  to  train  the  bearing  shoots  regularly  and  at 
proper  distances. 

In  cutting  out  useless  large  branches,  either  too  long  extended  or 
unfurnished  with  bearing  wood,  &c.,  let  them  be  cut  off  close  to  the 
places  from  whence  they  proceed,  to  some  convenient  lower  young 
shoots  or  branches,  leaving  no  stumps. 

The  young  branches  of  Jig -trees  must  not  be  shortened  or  topped,  but 
leave  each  at  full  length;  for  if  they  were,  it  would  not  only  cut 
away  the  part  where  fruit  would  have  appeared,  but  also  occasion 
them  to  run  much  to  wood,  and  thereby  never  produce  half  a  crop ; 
so  only  cut  off  casual  dead  ends. 

The  tree  being  pruned,  let  the  general  branches  and  bearers  be 
directly  trained  in  and  nailed  to  the  wall  or  fence,  or  made  fast  to  the 
espalier  in  regular  order,  extending  them  horizontally,  at  equal  dis- 
tances, six  or  seven  inches  from  each  other. 

PLANTING   AND   PROPAGATING   FIG-TREES. 

Plant  fig-trees  where  wanted,  this  being  rather  the  best  month  in 
the  year  for  removing  them  ;  they  will  now  take  root  in  a  very  short 
time. 

In  planting  figs,  you  may  either  procure  trained  young  trees  that 
are  arrived  to  a  bearing  state,  and  plant  them  at  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  distance,  or  as  they  are  propagated  in  general,  either  by  the 
suckers  which  arise  from  the  roots  of  the  old  trees,  or  by  layers,  or 
cuttings,  young  plants  of  these  may  be  planted  at  once  where  they 
are  to  remain,  that  they  may  establish  their  roots  more  effectually 
without  being  disturbed  by  removal :  therefore  in  default  of  trained 
trees,  some  good  plants  or  suckers  of  moderate  growth,  and  such  as 
are  firm  and  well  ripened,  may  be  procured  and  planted  at  once  where 
they  are  to  remain ;  and  others  may  be  planted  in  the  nursery,  for 
training  a  few  years. 

To  raise  them  by  layers,  select  young  branches  of  one  or  two  years' 


MARCH]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  227 

growth,  lading  them  in  the  earth  four  or  five  inches  deep,  with  the 
tops  as  erect  as  possible ;  they  will  be  well  rooted  by  next  spring, 
when  they  should  be  separated  from  the  old  tree  and  planted  either 
in  the  nursery  or  where  they  are  to  remain. 

To  propagate  them  by  cuttings,  make  choice  of  the  ripest  and 
most  perfect  of  the  last  year's  snoots,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 
in  length,  cutting  them  off  with  an  inch  or  two  of  the  two  years  old 
wood  at  their  base,  leaving  the  tops  entire  and  uncut.  Plant  these 
cuttings  six  or  eight  inches  deep,  in  good  soil,  and  in  rows  two  feet 
and  a  half  asunder,  and  a  foot  distant  from  one  another  in  the  rows  ; 
here  they  may  remain  for  two  years  when  they  will  be  in  a  fine  con- 
dition for  planting  where  wanted. 

They  may  also  be  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  long  narrow 
boxes  the  beginning  of  this  month,  placing  them  in  a  hot-bed  to  for- 
ward their  growth  j  and  about  the  middle  of  May,  remove  these  boxes 
into  the  shade  where  they  can  have  the  morning  sun  till  ten  o'clock, 
and  the  afternoon  sun  from  four ;  giving  them  water  when  necessary, 
and  protecting  them  the  winter  following  from  frost,  either  by  placing 
the  boxes  of  plants  in  the  green-house,  or  in  garden  frames.  When 
a  year  old  they  may  be  planted  out  as  directed  for  cuttings,  and 
treated  afterwards  in  the  same  way.  This  will  be  the  best  method 
to  obtain  new  kinds ;  the  seeds  of  the  imported  figs  will  grow  freely 
if  properly  treated ;  they  are  to  be  covered  when  sown  only  about  the 
eighth  of  an  inch  deep. 

Layers  or  cuttings  are  preferable  to  suckers*  as  they  are  not  so 
subject  to  produce  suckers  from  their  roots,  after  being  finally  planted, 
as  the  others. 

Fig-trees  may  be  trained  in  half  or  whole  standards,  and  planted 
detached  in  sheltered  sunny  situations,  keeping  them  free  from  suck- 
ers, permitting  their  heads  to  branch  regularly  around,  and  they  will 
produce  ripe  fruit  in  good  perfection :  they  produce  more  and  better 
in  a  strong  dry  loamy  soil  than  in  a  sandy  parched  one  (though  in 
soil  they  are  easily  pleased,  provided  it  does  not  lodge  water) ;  for 
when  planted  in  the  latter,  they  are  subject  to  cast  their  fruit  in  May 
and  June,  which,  under  such  circumstances,  in  some  measure,  may 
be  prevented  by  frequent  waterings  at  that  season  :  where  they  thrive 
well,  they  usually  produce  two  crops  in  the  season ;  the  first  on  the 
former  year's  wood,  and  the  second  on  the  young  shoots  of  the  pre- 
sent, which  is  generally  the  most  abundant. 

The  following  are  the  varieties  of  this  fruit  that  are  generally  con- 
sidered as  best  worth  cultivating,  and  are  placed  in  the  order  of  their 
ripening. 

1.  The  brown  or  chestnut  colored  Ischia  fig.     The  fruit  is  very 
large,  globular,  with  a  pretty  large  eye,  pinched  in  near  the  foot- 
stalk, of  a  brown  or  chestnut  color  on  the  outside,  and  purple  within  j 
the  grains  are  large,  and  the  pulp  sweet  and  high  flavored. 

2.  The  black  Genoa  fig.     This  is  a  long  fruit,  which  swells  pretty 
large  at  the  top,  the  lower  part  slender ;  the  skin  of  a  dark  purple 
color,  almost  black,  has  a  purple  farina  over  it  like  that  on  some 
plums ;  the  inside  is  of  a  bright  red,  and  the  flesh  is  very  highly  fla- 
vored. 


228  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

3.  The  small  white  early  fig.     This  has  a  roundish  fruit  a  little 
flatted  at  the  crown,  with  a  short  footstalk ;  skin,  when  ripe,  of  a 
pale  yellowish  color,  and  thin ;  the  inside  white,  flesh  sweet,  but  not 
highly  flavored. 

4.  The  large  white  Genoa  fig.     This  is  a  large  globular  fruit,  a 
little  lengthened  towards  the  stalk ;  skin  thin,  of  a  yellowish  color 
when  ripe,  and  flesh  red. 

5.  The  black  Ischia  fig.     Fruit  short,  middle  sized,  a  little  flatted 
at  the  crown,  skin  almost  black  when  ripe ;  flesh  of  a  deep  red,  and 
highly  flavored. 

6  The  Malta  fig.  Fruit  small,  compressed  at  the  top ;  greatly 
pinched  towards  the  footstalk ;  skin  a  pale  brown  color ;  flesh  the 
same,  and  very  sweet. 

7.  The  Murrey,  or  brown  Naples  fig.     Fruit   large  and  globular, 
of  a  light  brown  color,  with  some  faint  marks  of  a  dirty  white ;  flesh 
nearly  of  the  same  color,  and  well  flavored ;  grains  large. 

8.  The  green  Ischia  fig.     Fruit  oblong,  almost  glob.ular  at  the 
crown ;  skin  thin,  of  a  green  color,  but  when  fully  ripe  it  is  stained 
through  by  the  pulp  to  a  brownish  cast ;  flesh  purple,  well  flavored, 
and  will  stain  linen  or  paper. 

9.  The  Madonna  fig.     Fruit  long,  pyramidal,  and  of  a  large  size; 
skin  brown ;  flesh  a  lighter  brown,  coarse,  and  of  little  flavor. 

10.  The  common  blue,  or  purple  fig.     Fruit  purple,  oblong,  and 
small ;  the  tree  a  great  bearer  and  very  hardy. 

11.  The  long  brown  Naples  fig.    Fruit  long,  somewhat  compressed 
at  the  crown;  footstalks  pretty  long;  skin  of  a  dark  brown  when 
fully  ripe;  grains  large;  flesh  inclined  to  red,  and  well  flavored.    The 
leaves  of  this  tree  are  deeply  divided. 

12.  The  yellow  Ischia  fig.     Fruit  large,  of  a  pyramidal  form;  skin 
yellow  when  ripe;  flesh  purple,  and  well  flavored;  leaves  very  large, 
and  not  much  divided. 

13.  The  small  brown  Ischia  fig.     Fruit  small,  of  a  pyramidal  form, 
with  a  very  short  footstalk;  skin  of  a  light  brown;  flesh  inclining 
to  purple,  of  a  very  high  flavor;  leaves  less  divided  than  any  of  the 
other  sorts. 

14.  The  Gentile  fig.     Fruit  middle  sized,  globular;  skin,  when 
ripe,  of  a  yellow  color;  grains  large,  and  flesh  well  flavored. 

The  preceding  are  all  the  varieties  of  the  ficus  carica,  or  common 
fig-tree.  There  are  upwards  of  fifty  other  species  of  fig  described  by 
botanists,  but  these  are  generally  cultivated  either  on  account  of  their 
timber  or  as  curiosities. 

I  have  been  the  more  diffuse  on  this  article,  as  the  cultivation  of 
the  fig  and  its  different  varieties  is  not  as  well  known  in  the  United 
States  as  other  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  and  as  it  may  be  cultivated  in 
the  greatest  perfection,  particularly  in  the  southern  States,  while  in 
the  northern,  an  abundance  of  fruit  may  be  obtained  if  the  branches 
be  laid  down  in  the  winter  and  covered  over  six  inches  with  soil. 


HEADING  DOWN  FRUIT-TREES. 

For  the  method  of  pruning  and  heading  down  the  various  kinds 


MARCH]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  229 

of  fruit-trees  which  have  shown  symptoms  of  decay,  in  order  to 
attempt  their  restoration  to  health  and  bearing,  see  the  Orchard  this 
month. 


PRESERVING   THE   BLOSSOMS  AND  YOUNG  FRUIT   OF  WALL  AND 
ESPALIER  TREES. 

It  often  happens,  that  at  too  early  a  period  in  spring,  we  have  a 
forward  and  untimely  vegetation,  which  throws  our  early  blooming 
fruit-trees,  especially  those  in  warm  situations,  into  a  full  blow  of 
blossoms,  which,  if  afterwards  attacked  by  frost,  proves  their  destruc- 
tion. In  such  cases  some  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  wall  and  espalier 
trees  should  be  defended  therefrom  with  mats,  &c. 

The  mats  for  this  purpose  should  be  of  the  largest  size;  one  end 
of  them  should  be  fastened  with  nails  or  hooks  to  the  top  of  the  wall, 
and  let  them  hang  down  over  the  trees.  The  lower  end  of  the  mat 
should  also  be  fastened  down  to  prevent  their  being  blown  to  and  fro 
by  the  wind,  which  would  beat  the  blossoms  off. 

When  the  weather  is  mild  the  mats  should  be  taken  off,  for  it  is 
only  at  night,  in  sharp  frosts  and  cutting  frosty  winds,  that  the  blos- 
soms require  to  be  thus  sheltered. 

Or,  to  preserve  the  blossoms  and  young  fruit,  you  may  occasion- 
ally stick  the  trees  with  the  cuttings  of  hardy  evergreen  trees  and 
shrubs,  sticking  them  between  the  branches  in  a  somewhat  spreading 
manner,  so  as  the  leaves  may  afford  some  protection  to  the  blossom, 
and  which  I  have  found  to  be  often  very  serviceable. 

This  should  also  be  done  just  when  the  trees  are  coming  into  blos- 
som, having  cuttings  of  the  shoots  and  small  branches  of  laurel,  yew, 
pine,  and  some  other  hardy  evergreens,  preserving  the  leaves  to  them, 
and  being  placed  between  the  branches  in  the  manner  before  ob- 
served, so  as  to  shelter  those  which  are  in  blossom  ;  they  must  be 
permitted  to  remain  constantly  till  the  fruit  is  fairly  set  as  big  as 
large  peas. 

PLANTING  FRUIT-TREES. 

• 

Fruit-trees  of  all  kinds  may  be  planted  any  time  this  month  when 
the  weather  is  open,  with  success,  but  the  sooner  in  the  month  the 
better,  before  they  begin  to  shoot  ;  they  will  now  take  root  in  a  short 
time,  and  with  the  assistance  of  a  little  water  in  dry  weather,  will 
grow  freely. 

Let  every  kind  be  planted  at  proper  distances,  both  for  espaliers 
and  walls,  and  also  in  standards,  that  they  may  have  room  to  grow 
without  interfering  with  each  other  in  the  course  of  a  few  years ; 
which  is  often  the  case  in  many  gardens,  more  particularly  with  wall 
trees  and  espaliers. 

Peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots  should  never  be  planted  nearer 
than  fifteen  feet  asunder,  against  walls  or  espaliers;  nor  need  they  be 
planted  more  than  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  distant. 

Apples  and  pears,  for  walls  and  espaliers,  should  be  planted  fifteen 
to  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  asunder ;  but,  in  some  cases,  twenty-five 


230  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [MARCH 

feet  is  a  more  eligible  distance,  especially  for  some  sorts  of  free-shoot- 
ing pears;  though  it  appears  considerable  at  first,  yet  if  grafted,  &c., 
upon  free  stocks,  they  will  readily  fill  that  space,  and  bear  consider- 
ably better  than  if  confined  so  as  to  require  to  be  often  shortened  to 
continue  them  within  bounds;  however,  generally  allow  those  on 
dwarf  stocks  not  less  than  fifteen  feet,  the  others  eighteen  or  twenty 
feet  distant. 

Plums  and  cherries  designed  for  walls  and  espaliers  should  be 
planted  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  distance. 

The  above  distances  advised  in  planting  the  different  sorts  of  wall 
and  espalier  trees,  appear  great  when  the  trees  are  first  planted ;  but 
in  a  few  years  the  advantage  of  allowing  them  proper  room  will  be 
manifest;  and  it  should  be  observed  to  allow  trees  planted  against 
low  walls  a  greater  distance  than  for  higher,  in  order  that  in  default 
of  height,  there  may  be  proper  scope  to  extend  them  horizontally. 

For  the  particular  soil  and  situation  proper  for  the  different  kinds, 
see  the  Fruit  Garden  in  October  and  November;  and  also  the  Orchard 
in  this  month. 

Having  the  ground  previously  well  prepared,  open  a  wide  hole  for 
every  tree  about  a  spade  deep,  or  according  to  the  size  of  the  root, 
and  loosen  the  bottom  well.  Then  prune  the  roots  of  the  tree,  that 
is,  cut  off  bruised  or  broken  parts,  and  trim  the  ends  a  little  of  all 
the  very  long  straggling  roots  in  general,  prune  out  irregular  shoots 
of  the  head,  then  place  the  tree  in  the  hole,  break  the  earth  well  and 
throw  it  in  equally  about  the  roots,  and  when  all  is  in  tread  the  sur- 
face gently  round  the  tree. 

New  planted  fruit-trees  should  be  well  secured  from  the  violence 
of  the  wind ;  if  they  are  all  standards  in  exposed  situations,  let  them 
be  supported  with  stakes,  and  if  wall  trees,  &c.,  with  large  heads, 
planted  against  walls  and  espaliers,  fasten  their  main  branches 
thereto. 

Jftji*'  As  the  seasons  for  planting  out  fruit  and  other  trees  differ  so 
much  in  the  climates  of  the  United  States,  and  even  in  the  same 
place  in  different  seasons,  the  only  sure  guide  is  to  plant  all  kinds  of 
trees  as  soon  as  their  buds  begin  to  swell,  or  rather  a  little  before. 

• 

GOOSEBERRIES   AND   CURRANTS. 

Prune  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes,  where  they  are  not  yet  done ; 
but  let  this  work  be  finished  the  beginning  of  the  month. 

Keep  the  branches  thin  and  the  middle  of  the  trees  open  and  clear 
of  wood,  so  as  to  admit  the  sun  and  air  freely,  by  which  means  the 
fruit  will  be  large  and  well  tasted.  Observe  the  rules  exhibited  in 
January,  page  43,  February,  page  146,  and  also  in  October. 

From  the  beginning  to  the  middle  of  this  month,  is  a  good  time 
to  plant  gooseberry  or  currant-trees ;  the  former  particularly  require 
rich  ground,  plenty  of  manure,  frequent  culture  about  the  plants, 
and  to  be  kept  on  one  stem.  The  best  form  for  a  well  trained  stand- 
ard gooseberry,  or  currant,  is  that  of  a  wineglass ;  if  you  expect  good 
fruit,  you  must  be  particular  to  keep  them  free  from  suckers. 

Manure  and  dig  the  ground  between  the  gooseberry  and  currant 


MARCH]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  231 

trees,  which,  as  they  are  just  advancing  in  bud,  will  now  be  of  great 
service,  in  promoting  a  plentiful  production  of  large  good  fruit. 

For  the  best  methods  of  propagating  gooseberries  and  currants,  see 
the  work  of  the  Nursery  for  this  month. 

PRUNING   AND   PLANTING   RASPBERRIES. 

Prune  raspberries,  when  not  done  before,  agreeably  to  the  direc- 
tions given  last  month,  page  146 ;  let  this  be  done  as  early  in  the 
month  as  possible. 

You  may  now  make  new  plantations  of  raspberries,  where  wanted. 
Observe  that  the  young  shoots  or  suckers,  which  arise  every  summer 
from  the  old  roots,  are  to  be  chosen  for  this  purpose.  These  should 
be  planted  in  good  ground,  and  in  an  open  situation  ;  if  you  dig  in 
some  rotten  manure,  it  will  be  of  considerable  service  to  the  plants, 
and  promote  a  production  of  large  fruit. 

In  choosing  the  plants  for  this  plantation,  observe  to  select  the 
outward  young  suckers  of  strong  and  robust  growth,  all  of  last  sum- 
mer's production,  not  less  than  two  feet,  but  the  more  eligible  if 
from  three  to  five  feet  long,  with  strength  in  proportion — digging 
them  up  with  full  roots,  preferring  those  with  roots  the  most  fibrous, 
for  this  is  material  in  those  plants  j  and,  as  sometimes  one,  two,  or 
more  buds  appear,  formed  on  the  root  near  the  bottom  of  the  stem, 
for  next  summer's  shoots,  such  plants  are  particularly  to  be  chosen, 
if  to  be  had. 

Fig.  21. 


Fastolf. 


232 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


[MARCH 


Fig.  22. 


Previous  to  planting  shorten  the  shoots,  cutting  off  about  one- 
fourth  of  their  length,  trim  the  roots  and  cut  away  any  old  stumps 
or  hard  woody  parts  annexed  thereto,  then  plant  them  in  rows  four 
feet  and  a  half  asunder,  and  from  two  to  three  feet  distant  in  the 

rows;  they  will  produce  some 
fruit  next  summer,  and  more 
abundantly  the  second  year,  &c. 
Dig  the  ground  between  your 
old  plantations  of  raspberries 
after  pruning,  taking  out  the 
suckers,  &c.,  as  directed  last 
month. 

The  Fastolf  and  Red  Ant- 
werp raspberries  are  among  the 
most  esteemed  market  varieties, 
and  we  therefore  give  their  por- 
traits. 

Brinkle's  Orange  raspberry  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  de- 
Red  Antwerp.  sirable  for  private  gardens,  and 
has  become  much  introduced. 


DIGGING   THE   FRUIT- TREE   BORDERS. 

Dig  the  fruit-tree  borders  as  early  in  this  month  as  you  find  the 
ground  to  work  freely,  previously  giving  them  a  good  dressing  of 
well  rotted  manure.  This  will  be  serviceable  to  the  trees,  the  bor- 
ders will  appear  neat,  and  be  ready  to  receive  any  small  crops,  which 
may  be  proper  to  sow  or  plant  therein. 


STRAWBERRIES. 

The  strawberry  plants  will  now  begin  to  push,  therefore  the  sooner 
they  receive  their  spring  dressing,  after  the  weather  becomes  tolera- 
bly favorable,  the  better. 

Clear  the  beds  from  weeds,  and  the  plants  from  decayed  leaves 
and  old  runners ;  it  is  most  advisable  to  keep  the  plants  in  single 
bunches,  clear  of  each  other,  so  that  there  may  be  room  to  hoe  be- 
tween, and  occasionally  to  dig  round  them  with  a  narrow  spade  or 
trowel,  by  which  means  they  will  fruit  in  much  better  perfection  than 
if  crowded  together. 

The  beds -being  cleared  from  litter,  loosen  the  earth  between  the 
plants;  and  if  you  add  a  little  fresh  earth  from  the  alleys,  &c.,  to 
the  beds,  drawing  it  close  to  the  plants,  it  will  greatly  strengthen 
them,  and  cause  them  to  flower  strong  and  bear  plentifully. 

Strawberries  may  be  planted  about  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the 
month,  but  if  planted  in  September,  or  early  in  October,  they  would 
bear  fruit  the  summer  following;  not  but  those  planted  now  will  take 
root  freely  and  bear  some  fruit,  but  they  will  be  few  in  comparison 
to  those  of  the  autumn  planting ;  however,  next  year  they  will  bear 
abundantly. 


MARCH]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  233 

The  proper  sets  for  planting  are  the  young  offsets  and  runner 
plants  of  the  last  summer,  which  procure,  of  the  strongest  stocky 
growth,  from  beds  of  good  plants  that  are  in  full  perfection  for  bear- 
ing, and  not  from  worn-out  stools,  taking  them  up  with  good  roots. 

Prepare  for  these  plants  a  piece  of  good  ground,  either  in  the 
main  quarters  or  in  the  borders ;  if  loamy  the  better ;  and  let  some 
rotten  dung  be  dug  in.  If  in  the  main  quarters,  divide  the  ground 
into  beds  four  feet  wide,  with  alleys  eighteen  inches  wide  between 
them,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  continued  rows  in  the  borders. 
Plant  the  strawberries  of  the  scarlet  kind  fifteen  inches  asunder,  and 
allow  the  same  distance  between  plant  and  plant  in  the  rows.  But 
the  large  kinds,  such  as  the  hautboy  and  Chili,  should  be  planted 
eighteen  inches  distant  every  way. 

The  Alpine  or  prolific  strawberry,  should  likewise  be  planted 
fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  distant  every  way,  that  there  may  be  room 
for  their  runners  to  spread  and  take  root ;  this  kind  of  strawberry 
being  different  in  its  manner  of  bearing  from  the  others,  for  the  run- 
ners often  yield  the  largest  and  fairest  fruit ;  this  kind  continues 
bearing  ripe  fruit  from  the  latter  end  of  May  to  October. 

A  farther  supply  of  bearing  strawberry  plants  in  pots  may  still  be 
placed  in  hot-beds  and  hot-houses,  &c.,  to  produce  a  succession  of 
early  fruit,  and  to  afford  a  sufficient  supply  till  those  in  the  open 
ground  ripen. 

STRAWBERRY  TILES. 

A  refinement  in  strawberry  culture  may  be  practised  with  advan- 
tage where  expense  is  no  object,  a,  a  bed  of  young  strawberry  plants 
with  the  tiles  placed  around  them,  b  shows  the  end  of  a  bed,  with 

Fig.  23. 


the  tiles  placed  down  without  the  plants,  c  shows  the  end  of  a  bed 
with  the  fruit  and  foliage  upon  the  tiles.  It  would  be  injurious  to 
the  plants  to  place  these  tiles  around  the  plants  early  in  the  season, 
as  they  would  deprive  them  of  rain  during  the  growing  season ;  but, 
just  as  the  blossom  is  appearing,  it  is  an  advantage,  as  the  fruit 
would  lie  dry  and  clean  on  the  upper  surface.  These  tiles  are  so 
constructed,  on  flange-like  edges,  as  to  give  a  good  circulation  of  air 
below.  .»  • 


234  THE  .ORCHARD.  [MARCH 


FORCING  FRUIT-TREES. 

Continue  the  care  of  fruit-trees  now  forwarding  in  hot-walls  and 
forcing-houses ;  such  as  peaches,  nectarines,  cherries,  vines,  &c. ;  let 
the  fires  be  made  every  cold  afternoon  and  morning,  but  regularly  at 
night;  and  as  the  season  advances  in  heat,  and  the  sun's  power 
increases,  diminish  the  fires  and  admit  more  air ;  occasional  water- 
ings will  be  very  necessary  to  encourage  the  fruit  to  swell  and  grow 
freely ;  but  be  particular  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  when 
the  sun  gets  powerful,  to  admit  in  proportion,  and  to  manage  the 
plants  in  every  respect  as  directed  in  February,  page  147. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

PRUNING. 

Finish  pruning  of  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees  as  early  in  this  month  as 
possible,  according  to  the  rules  laid  down  under  the  head  Orchard 
in  January  and  February,  to  which  I  refer  you  for  that,  as  well  as 
other  useful  information. 

In  those  parts  of  the  Union  where  the  winter  is  very  severe  and 
the  weather  changeable,  autumnal  pruning  of  fruit-trees  is  not  ad- 
visable, particularly  of  stone  fruit;  for  by  pruning  at  that  season, 
especially  if  many  limbs  are  cut  off,  you  are  apt  to  bring  on  the 
canker.  The  exposure  of  the  wounds,  the  almost  dormant  state  of 
the  sap,  together  with  the  additional  check  to  its  slow,  but  certain 
ascent  to.  the  extremities  occasioned  by  the  amputation  of  limbs,  &c., 
predispose  to  mortification ;  whereas,  in  early  spring,  when  the  sap 
may  be  expected  soon  to  follow  the  knife,  the  lips  will  quickly  grow 
and  heal  over. 

It  is  universally  admitted,  that  the  sap  continues  to  flow,  though 
slowly,  in  the  milder  parts  of  the  winter  days,  and  that  it  must  rise 
continually  during  the  winter  months  in  evergreen  trees,  otherwise 
their  foliage  would  wither ;  and  also  in  deciduous  trees  (that  is,  such 
as  shed  their  leaves  in  winter) ;  because  the  branch  of  an  evergreen 
tree  will  grow  on  a  deciduous  tree,  and  not  lose  its  leaves  in  winter, 
as  the  Prunus  Lauro-Cerasus,  or  European  laurel,  on  a  cherry;  and 
the  evergreen  oak,  on  a  common  oak. 

When  pruning  is  judiciously  done,  and  at  a  proper  time,  if  the 
branches  are  small,  a  fresh  bark  and  fresh  wood  will,  in  one  season, 
completely  cover  the  wounds ;  but  if  large,  a  time  proportionate  to 
the  size  will  be  necessary  for  their  covering  and  healing;  this  pro- 
cess, however,  is  much  accelerated  by  the  application  of  a  proper 
composition,  which  excludes  the  air  and  wet,  protects  the  wounds 
from  the  effects  of  the  various  changes  of  the  weather,  the  surround- 
ing bark  from  any  injury  by  insects  of  worms,  and  yields  to  its 
growth ;  all  these  ends  will  be  effectually  answered  by  an  applica- 


MARCH]  THE  ORCHARD.  235 

tion  of  the  medicated  tar  prescribed  on  page  58 ;   and  applied  as 
there  directed. 

The  following  compositions  have  been  much  spoken  of;  I  shall, 
therefore,  publish  them  without  any  comments  on  their  virtues, 
leaving  the  result  to  the  experience  of  those  who  have,  or  shall  have 
tried  them ;  however,  I  must  observe,  that  the  methods  of  pruning 
old  or  decayed  trees,  recommended  by  MR.  FORSYTH,  and  accom- 
panying his  instructions  for  making  the  composition,  are  very  judi- 
cious, and  should  be  duly  attended  to,  whatever  composition  may  be 
determined  on  for  use  afterwards. 

ROYAL  GARDENS,  Kensington,  May  11,  1791. 

Directions  for  making  a  composition  for  curing  diseases,  defects,  and 
injuries  in  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  forest-trees,  and  the  method  of 
preparing  the  trees  and  laying  on  the  composition,  by  WILLIAM 
FORSYTE. 

"  Take  one  bushel  of  fresh  cow-dung,  half  a  bushel  of  lime  rub- 
bish of  old  buildings  (that  from  the  ceilings  of  rooms  is  preferable), 
half  a  bushel  of  wood  ashes,  and  a  sixteenth  part  of  a  bushel  of  pit 
or  river  sand ;  the  three  last  articles  are  to  be  sifted  fine  before  they 
are  mixed  j  then  work  them  well  together  with  a  spade,  and  after- 
wards with  a  wooden  beater,  until  the  stuff  is  very  smooth,  like  fine 
plaster  used  for  the  ceilings  of  rooms. 

"  The  composition  being  thus  made,  care  must  be  taken  to  pre- 
pare the  tree  properly  for  its  application,  by  cutting  away  all  the 
dead,  decayed,  and  injured  part  till  you  come  to  the  fresh,  sound 
wood,  leaving  the  surface  of  the  wood  very  smooth,  and  rounding 
off  the  edges  of  the  bark  with  a  drawknife,  or  other  instrument,  per- 
fectly smooth,  which  must  be  particularly  attended  to ;  then  lay  on 
the  plaster  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  all  over  the  part  where 
the  wood  or  bark  has  been  so  cut  away,  finishing  off  the  edges  as 
thin  as  possible ;  then  take  a  quantity  of  dry  powder  of  wood-ashes 
mixed  with  a  sixth  part  of  the  same  quantity  of  the  ashes  of  burnt 
bones,  put  it  into  a  tin  box,  with  holes  in  the  top,  and  shake  the 
powder  on  the  surface  of  the  plaster,  till  the  whole  is  covered  over 
with  it,  letting  it  remain  for  half  an  hour,  to  absorb  the  moisture; 
then  apply  more  powder,  rubbing  it  on  gently  with  the  hand,  and 
repeating  the  application  of  the  powder  till  the  whole  plaster  becomes 
a  dry  smooth  surface. 

"  All  trees  cut  down  near  the  ground  should  have  the  surface 
made  quite  smooth,  rounding  it  off  in  a  small  degree,  as  before  men- 
tioned ;  and  the  dry  powder  directed  to  be  used  afterwards  should 
have  an  equal  quantity  of  powder  of  alabaster  mixed  with  it,  in  or- 
der the  better  to  resist  the  dripping  of  trees  and  heavy  rains. 

"  If  any  of  the  composition  be  left  for  a  future  occasion,  it  should 
be  kept  in  a  tub  or  other  vessel,  and  urine  of  any  kind  poured  on  it, 
so  as  to  cover  the  surface  ;  otherwise  the  atmosphere  will  greatly  hurt 
the  efficacy  of  the  application. 

"  Where  lime  rubbish  of  old  buildings  cannot  be  easily  got,  take 
pounded  chalk,  or  common  lime,  after  having  been  slacked  a  month 
at  least. 


236  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH 

"As  the  growth  of  the  tree  will  gradually  affect  the  plaster,  by 
raising  up  its  edges  next  the  bark,  care  should  be  taken,  when  that 
happens,  to  rub  it  over  with  the  finger  when  occasion  may  require 
(which  is  best  done  when  moistened  by  rain),  that  the  plaster  may 
be  kept  whole,  to  prevent  the  air  and  wet  from  penetrating  into  the 
wound." 


ADDITIONAL    DIRECTIONS    FOR   MAKING   AND    USING   THE   COMPOSI- 
TION. 

To  the  foregoing  directions  for  making  and  applying  the  composi- 
tion, it  is  necessary  to  add  the  following  : — 

"  As  the  best  way  of  using  the  composition  is  found  by  experience 
to  be  in  a  liquid  state,  it  must,  therefore,  be  reduced  to  the  consist- 
ence of  pretty  thick  paint,  by  mixing  it  up  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  urine  and  soap-suds,  and  laid  on  with  a  painter's  brush.  The 
powder  of  wood  ashes  and  burnt  bones  is  to  be  applied  as  before 
directed,  patting  it  down  with  the  hand. 

"  When  trees  are  become  hollow,  you  must  scoop  out  all  the  rot- 
ten, loose,  and  dead  parts  of  the  trunk,  till  you  come  to  the  solid 
wood,  leaving  the  surface  smooth ;  then  cover  the  hollow,  and  every 
part  where  the  canker  has  been  cut  out,  or  branches  lopped  off,  with 
the  composition  ,  and,  as  the  edges  grow,  take  care  not  to  let  the  new 
wood  come  in  contact  with  the  dead,  part  of  which  it  may  be  some- 
times necessary  to  leave ;  but  cut  out  the  old  dead  wood  as  the  new 
advances,  keeping  a  hollow  between  them,  to  allow  the  new  wood  room 
to  extend  itself,  and  thereby  fill  up  the  cavity,  which  it  will  do  in 
time,  so  as  to  make,  as  it  were,  a  new  tree.  If  the  cavity  be  large, 
you  may  cut  away  as  much  at  one  operation  as  will  be  sufficient  for 
three  years.  But  in  this  you  are  to  be  guided  by  the  size  of  the 
wound,  and  other  circumstances.  When  the  new  wood,  advancing 
from  both  sides  of  the  wound,  has  almost  met,  cut  off  the  bark  from 
both  the  edges,  that  the  solid  wood  may  join,  which,  if  properly 
managed,  it  will  do,  leaving  only  a  slight  seam  in  the  bark.  If  the 
tree  be  very  much  decayed,  do  not  cut  away  all  the  dead  wood  at 
once,  which  would  weaken  the  tree  too  much,  if  a  standard,  and  en- 
danger its  being  blown  down  by  the  wind.  It  will  therefore  be  ne- 
cessary to  leave  part  of  the  dead  wood  at  first,  to  strengthen  the  tree, 
and  to  cut  it  out  by  degrees  as  the  new  wood  is  formed.  If  there  be 
any  canker,  or  gum-oozing,  the  infected  parts  must  be  pared  off,  or 
cut  out  with  a  proper  instrument. 

"  Some  months  before  the  publication  of  the  '  Observations  on  the 
Diseases,  &c.,in  Fruit  and  Forest  Trees,'  I  had  tried  the  composition 
in  a  liquid  state,  but  did  not  think  myself  warranted  to  make  it  pub- 
lic until  I  had  experienced  its  effects  through  the  winter.  The  suc- 
cess answered  my  most  sanguine  expectations  ;  and  I  have  used  it  in 
that  way  ever  since.  By  using  the  composition  in  a  liquid  state, 
more  than  three-fourths  of  the  time  and  labor  are  saved  ;  and  I  find  it 
is  not  so  liable  to  be  thrown  off  as  the  lips  grow,  as  when  laid  on  in 
the  consistence  of  plaster  ;  it  adheres  firmly  to  the  naked  part  of  the 
wound,  and  yet  easily  gives  way  as  the  new  wood  and  bark  advance. 


MARCH!  THE  ORCHARD.  237 

"  The  first  time  that  I  tried  the  composition  in  a  liquid  form,  was 
upon  an  elm  which  had  been  planted  about  twenty  years.  It  had 
been  very  much  bruised  by  the  roller,  had  several  cavities  in  it,  and 
was  very  much  bark-bound  besides.  Having  prepared  the  wounds, 
and  applied  the  composition  with  a  painter's  brush,  I  took  my  knife 
and  scarified  the  tree  in  four  places ;  I  also  shaved  off,  with  a  draw- 
knife,  all  the  cankery  outer  bark,  and  covered  the  whole  tree  with 
the  composition,  shaking  the  powder  of  wood-ashes  and  burnt  bones 
all  over  it.  A  very  heavy  rain  began  in  the  evening  and  continued 
all  night ;  yet,  to  my  great  surprise,  in  the  morning,  I  found  that 
only  some  of  the  powder,  which  had  not  had  time  to  dry  and  incor- 
porate with  the  composition,  was  washed  off.  I  now  repeated  the 
powder,  and  without  anything  more  being  done  to  the  tree,  the 
wounds  healed  up  and  the  bark  was  restored  so  completely,  that, 
three  years  ago,  it  could  hardly  be  discerned  where  the  wounds  had 
been.  The  scarifications  had  also  disappeared.  Some  of  the  wounds 
were  thirteen  inches  long,  eight  broad,  and  three  deep.  Since  the 
time  when  it  was  scarified,  the  tree  has  increased  ten  inches  more  in 
circumference  than  a  healthy  tree  planted  at  the  same  time  with  it, 
about  sixteen  feet  distant,  which  was  not  scarified." 


"  Melt  together  in  a  large  earthen  pipkin,  two  pounds  and  a  half 
of  common  pitch,  and  half  a  pound  of  common  turpentine,  then  put 
in  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  powder  of  aloes,  stir  them  all  to- 
gether, and  set  the  matter  on  fire  j  when  it  has  flamed  a  moment,  cover 
it  up  close  and  it  will  go  out,  then  melt  it  well  and  fire  it  again  in 
the  same  way  j  this  must  be  repeated  three  times  (in  the  open  air) ; 
after  it  has  burned  the  last  time  melt  it  again,  and  put  in  three 
ounces  of  yellow  wax,  shred  very  thin ;  and  six  drachms  of  mastic, 
in  powder ;  let  it  all  melt  together  till  perfectly  well  mixed,  then 
strain  it  through  a  coarse  cloth,  and  set  it  by  to  cool. 

"When  you  use  this  composition,  melt  a  small  piece  of  it,  and  let 
it  cool  till  it  is  just  sufficiently  soft  to  spread  on  the  part  where 
wanted,  but  it  must  not  be  laid  on  very  hot." 

When  any  of  your  old  fruit-trees,  which  you  particularly  esteem, 
appear  on  the  decline,  and  are  grown  thin  of  young  wood,  you  may 
probably  restore  them  by  heading  down  such  limbs  as  are  in  a  bad 
state,  to  those  parts  where  young  shoot  appear,  and  dose  to  the  most 
vigorous;  but  be  careful  not  to  do  this  generally  the  same  season, 
for  that  would  give  too  sudden  a  check  to  the  sap,  and  in  all  proba- 
bility destroy  the  tree  totally.  But  if  every  other  branch  all  over 
the  tree  were  headed  at  proper  lengths,  each  close  to  some  young 
shoot,  new  healthy  wood  would  be  produced,  which  would  soon  come 
into  bearing.  The  next  spring  after  the  first  branches  were  headed, 
the  remaining  old  branches  may  be  cut  out,  as  directed  above;  after 
which  the  head  of  the  tree  will  be  soon  filled  with  bearing  wood,  which 
may  afterwards  be  pruned  as  directed  for  other  trees.  This  may 
be  practised  on  either  standard,  wall,  or  espalier  trees. 

Peaches  and  nectarines  will  require  to  be  treated  with  more  cau- 


238  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH 

tion  than  any  other  kinds ;  never  head  them  lower  down  than  you 
find  young  shoots  or  healthy  branches,  otherwise  you  will  endanger 
their  lives ;  and  always  cut  close  to  the  most  vigorous  of  these,  in 
order  that  the  sap  may  be  drawn  that  way,  by  which  the  wounds  will 
heal  and  cover  over.  Indeed  this  caution  will  be  generally  useful, 
but  more  particularly  with  these. 

When  any  of  the  trunks  of  your  trees  become  hollow,  cut  out  all 
the  loose  rotten  wood,  and  also  examine  the  roots,  cutting  off  the 
injured,  rotten,  or  decayed  parts. 

As  you  proceed  in  pruning,  apply  to  the  wounds  either  of  the  pre- 
ceding compositions  which  you  prefer,  in  the  manner  directed ;  but 
if  your  trees  are  annoyed  with  worms,  the  medicated  tar  is  decidedly 
preferable. 

Examine  now  your  fruit-trees,  particularly  the  peaches ;  and  if 
annoyed  by  worms,  either  in  their  trunks,  branches,  about  the  surface 
of  th%  ground,  and  a  little  under,  pick  out  as  many  as  you  can  with  a 
sharp  pointed  knife,  and  with  as  little  injury  to  the  bark  as  possible; 
scrape  off  clean  all  the  gum  that  appears  on  the  stem  or  branches, 
and  wash  all  these  parts,  and  any  other  that  you  suspect  to  be  in- 
fected with  these  insects  or  their  embryos,  with  the  corrosive  solu- 
tion described  on  page  149,  which  you  may  make  twice  or  three  times 
as  strong  as  there  directed,  without  the  least  fear  of  its  injuring  the 
tree ;  then  dress  the  wounded  parts  with  the  medicated  tar,  as  there 
directed.* 

I  have  at  the  present  time  (January,  1805),  and  have  had  for 
several  weeks,  the  roots  of  polyanthus-narcissuses,  hyacinths,  and 
other  bulbs,  growing  in  bulb-glasses,  filled  with  a  much  stronger  solu- 
tion of  the  corrosive  sublimate  than  that  prescribed  in  page  149,  and 
apparently  in  more  health  and  vigor  than  those  which  are  growing  in 
pure  water;  I  have  also  washed  the  leaves,  stems,  branches,  and  vari- 
ous kinds  of  tender  plants  with  it,  and  poured  it  on  the  earth  about 
their  roots  in  large  quantities,  without  any  other  effect  than  the  de- 
struction of  the  earth  worms,  and  those  which  annoyed  the  plants. 

Be  very  cautious  not  to  leave  any  of  the  corrosive  sublimate,  or 
solution,  in  a  careless  manner  in  or  about  the  house,  for,  with  respect 
to  animal  life,  it  is  a  very  active  poison;  so  powerful  that  when  ad- 
ministered medicinally,  the  quarter  of  a  grain,  being  the  two  hun- 
dred and  fortieth  part  of  a  drachm,  is  considered  a  sufficient  dose  for 
an  adult  person. 

EXTENT,  ASPECT,  SITUATION,  AND  SOIL. 

The  extent  of  an  orchard  should  be  in  proportion  to  the  quantity 
of  fruit  required  either  for  family  use,  distillation,  cider,  &c.,  or  for 
public  supply;  and  may  be  from  half  an  acre  to  a  hundred  acres,  or 
more. 

As  to  aspect,  that  is  not  of  as  much  importance  as  some  people 

*  If  a  small  mound  be  formed  around  the  base  of  peach-trees  when  first 
planted,  composed  of  slaked  lime  and  wood  ashes,  it  will  prevent  these 
"borers"  entering. 


MARCH]  THE  ORCHARD.  239 

imagine,  especially  for  apple,  pear,  and  other  hardy  fruit-trees ;  for 
you  will  find  these  growing  and  bearing  fruit  in  the  greatest  perfec- 
tion in  every  aspect  where  the  soil  is  suitable,  and  proper  care  taken 
of  the  trees ;  but  the  more  tender  and  early  flowering  fruits,  such  as 
peaches  and  nectarines,  &c.,  will  require  to  be  planted  where  they 
may  have  protection  from  the  cold  north  and  northwesterly  winds ; 
which,  when  accompanied  by  frost,  often  do  considerable  injury  to 
their  early  bloom ;  and  likewise,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  a  warm 
exposure,  especially  in  the  eastern  and  middle  States,  to  late  ripen- 
ing kinds,  such  as  the  heath-peach,  &c.,  in  order  to  bring  their  fruit 
to  maturity  in  due  season. 

In  the  southern  States  a  north  aspect  will  be  the  most  eligible  for 
apple-trees,  and  perhaps  for  several  other  kinds. 

With  respect  to  situation,  very  thriving  orchards  are  frequently 
found  on  high  and  low  grounds,  on  declivities  and  plains,  in  various 
aspects  and  exposures ;  but  this  is  in  consequence  of  the  natural  soil 
being  good;  you  should,  however,  avoid  very  low  damp  situations, 
particularly  such  as  lodge  water;  for  in  very  wet  soils,  no  fruit-trees 
will  prosper,  nor  will  the  fruit  produced  in  such  places  be  good ;  but 
a  moderately  low  situation,  free  from  wet,  may  be  more  eligible  than 
an  elevated  ground,  as  being  less  exposed  to  tempestuous  winds ; 
but  if  having  a  gentle  declivity  the  more  desirable. 

A  proper  soil  being  the  grand  and  essential  requisite,  should  be 
carefully  selected,  for  on  this  depends  much  of  your  success;  a  good 
deep  sandy  loam,  neither  too  dry  nor  wet,  is  the  most  suitable  for  all 
kinds  of  fruit-trees,  and  whether  this  be  on  high  or  low  situations  it 
should  be  preferred  to  every  other.  In  the  heaviest  part  of  this 
ground  you  may  plant  apples  and  pears ;  in  the  lighter,  plums  and 
cherries  ;  and  in  the  lightest,  peach,  nectarine,  and  apricots.  G-ene- 
speaking  ground  that  will  produce  good  crops  of  natural  grass,  or 
kitchen  garden  vegetables,  is  suitable  for  an  orchard;  if  of  a  loamy 
nature  it  will  be  a  particular  advantage;  any  soil,  however,  of  a 
good  quality,  not  too  light  and  dry,  nor  too  heavy,  stubborn,  or  wet, 
and  not  less  than  one  spade  deep  of  good  staple  will  be  proper  for 
this  purpose. 

Where  the  soil  is  naturally  defective,  such  may  be  assisted  by  the 
application  of  proper  manures  and  composts ;  applying  them  to  the 
whole  ground  if  but  of  moderate  extent,  or,  if  extensive,  to  the  place 
where  each  tree  is  to  stand,  for  the  space  of  eight  or  ten  feet  in  dia- 
meter, working  it  up  with  the  natural  soil. 

This  trouble,  however,  in  extensive  orchards  would  be  very  ex- 
pensive ;  therefore  those  who  have  choice  of  ground  should  be  very 
careful  to  fix  upon  a  proper  soil,  such  as  would  require  but  little 
assistance. 


PREPARATION  OP  THE  GROUND. 

The  preparation  of  the  ground,  for  the  reception  of  fruit-trees,  is 
either  by  digging  a  spacious  place  for  each  tree,  a  general  trenching 
of  the  ground,  or  by  ploughing  it.  If  the  latter  kind  of  preparation 
is  intended,  and  that  the  ground  has  been  under  pasture  for  some 


210  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH 

years,  you  should  plough  the  greensward  the  spring  before  you  plant 
the  trees,  and  also  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  the  summer 
following,  to  rot  the  sward,  pulverize  the  earth,  and  to  prevent  the 
growth  of  weeds. 

Early  in  October  you  should  plough  it  again  very  deep,  running 
the  plough  twice  in  each  furrow,  in  order  to  make  it  deep  and  loose 
for  the  roots  of  the  trees ;  which  should  be  planted  therein  in  the 
course  of  the  same  or  next  month;  but  if  the  soil  be  moist,  March 
will  be  a  much  better  season. 

Or  you  may  plough  as  above,  eight  or  ten  feet  wide  for  each  row 
of  trees,  leaving  the  remainder  of  the  ground  untouched. 

In  planting  orchards  on  a  grass  ground,  in  very  good  soil,  you  may 
dig  a  hole  for  each  tree  capacious  enough  for  the  easy  reception  of  all 
the  roots,  loosening  the  bottom  well  without  disturbing  any  other 
part  of  the  ground;  but  when  it  is  trenched  either  wholly,  or  some 
considerable  width  along  the  place  of  each  row  of  trees,  it  will  con- 
sequently prove  of  disproportionate  advantage. 

Your  orchard  should  get  a  good  dressing  of  manure,  once  in  two 
or  three  years,  whether  under  crops  of  grain,  or  grass ;  this  will  prove 
very  serviceable  to  the  trees,  and  also  more  than  repay  your  expenses 
in  the  abundance  of  the  succeeding  crops.  If  the  ground  is  suffered 
to  be  exhausted  by  successive  crops  of  fruit  and.  grass,  or  grain  with- 
out refreshing  it  occasionally  by  manure  it  will  soon,  if  not  extremely 
fertile,  become  unfit  to  produce  either.* 

Tillage  is  favorable  to  the  growth  of  young  trees ;  whereas  in  grass- 
ground  their  progress  is  comparatively  slow  for  want  of  the  earth 
being  stirred  about  their  roots,  and  being  frequently  injured  by  graz- 
ing stock.  Where  circumstances  will  allow  it  is  best  to  plant  fruit- 
trees  on  newly  broken-up  ground,  and  to  cultivate  the  soil  (refresh- 
ing it  with  manure  as  often  as  necessary),  until  the  trees  are  well 
grown;  then  to  lay  it  down  to  grass;  for  after  that  period  the  shade 
of  the  trees  would  do  less  injury  to  it  than  to  any  other  crop;  and 
besides,  the  pending  boughs  would  render  tillage  inconvenient. 

CHOICE  OF  TREES,  ETC. 

If  not  provided  with  trees  in  your  own  nursery,  you  must  apply 
to  some  public  nursery-man  of  integrity,  who  will  not  deceive  you  in 
the  varieties  of  the  kinds  wanted :  observe  in  the  first  place  that  the 
trees  are  healthy  and  fresh  looking,  without  any  blemishes  or  appear- 
ance of  canker  or  worms  in  the  bark;  that  they  have  been  raised  at 
proper  distances,  and  not  drawn  up  spindling ;  that  their  heads  are 
well  formed  and  well  furnished;  that  their  stems  are  stout,  propor- 
tionate to  their  heads,  straight,  clean,  free  from  suckers,  and  that 
they  are  not  more  than  from  two  to  four  years  old  from  the  bud  or 
graft,  and  that  all  have  been  worked,  that  is,  budded  or  grafted,  for 
otherwise,  there  would  be  no  certainty  of  having  good  fruit,  and 
besides,  there  would  be  much  longer  coming  into  bearing. 

*  There  is  little  doubt  but  this  want  of  nourishment  is  a  primary  cause 
of  the  supposed  wearing  out  of  many,  otherwise,  valuable  orchards. 


MARCH]  THE  ORCHARD.  241 

These  are  important  objects,  and  such  as  you  cannot  be  deceived 
in.  Never  make  choice  of  larger  trees  nor  higher  in  the  stems  than 
six  feet,  especially  for  general  plantations,  for  they  never  thrive  as 
well  as  young  trees,  and  are  subject  to  be  dashed  about  by  the  wind 
after  planting. 

The  next  object  is  to  see  them  taken  up  with  care,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve all  their  roots  as  entire  as  possible;  when  taken  up,  prune  off 
any  broken  or  bruised  parts  of  the  roots,  shorten  long  stragglers, 
and  top  the  ends  of  the  principal  roots  in  general  with  the  knife ; 
always  observing  to  prune  these  roots  on  the  under  side,  and  sloping 
outwards. 

Let  several  varieties  of  each  particular  kind  be  chosen,  such  as 
ripen  their  fruit  at  different  periods  from  the  earliest  to  the  latest, 
especially  when  they  are  wanted  for  the  table;  but  by  much  a  greater 
number  of  autumnal  and  late  ripening  kinds,  than  of  the  early  sorts, 
particularly  of  the  apples;  for  the  early  ripening  fruits  are  of  short 
duration,  and  only  proper  for  temporary  service.  When  you  want 
apples  or  peaches  for  distillation,  or  cider-making,  choose  proper 
juicy  kinds  for  that  purpose,  and  quantities  proportionate  to  your  in- 
tentions. 

METHOD  OF  PLANTING. 

If  the  trees  have  been  already  trained  so  as  to  have  full  branch- 
ing heads,  they  must  be  planted  with  those  entire,  only  retrenching 
or  shortening  any  irregular  or  ill-placed  branches  or  shoots  that  take 
an  awkward  direction,  or  that  grow  across  others  or  such  as  run  con- 
siderably longer  than  the  generality  of  the  others,  either  cutting  them 
clean  off,  close  to  the  places  from  whence  they  proceed,  or  to  some 
young  shoot  or  small  leading  branch,  as  may  appear  most  eligible  for 
giving  the  tree  an  open  spreading  form,  leaving  no  stumps  or  spurs. 

Should  you  not  be  able  to  procure  trees  having  furnished  and  well 
formed  heads,  and  you  are  obliged  to  take  such  as  are  thin  of  wood, 
and  running  up  tall,  plant  them,  having  their  roots  dressed  as  before, 
but  without  touching  their  heads  for  the  present.  So  soon  after 
planting  as  their  buds  begin  to  push,  head  them  down  to  within  six, 
eight,  or  ten  inches  of  the  place  where  you  wish  them  to  branch  out 
for  forming  their  heads ;  they  will  then  throw  out  young  vigorous 
shoots,  which  yt>u  may  afterwards  train  and  thicken,  or  make  thin 
at  pleasure,  by  judicious  pruning  in  the  following  years ;  or  should 
any  of  these  young  shoots  in  the  course  of  the  succeeding  months 
take  too  great  a  lead  of  the  others,  you  may  top  them  in  July,  which 
will  stop  their  rampant  growth,  and  cause  them  to  throw  out  side 
shoots  that  will  still  enlarge  a  foundation  for  numerous  branches, 
and  not  carry  off  too  much  of  the  sap  from  the  others. 

Should  it  happen  that  any  of  your  trees  have  large  heads  and  but 
few  or  scanty  roots,  reduce  their  tops  by  a  select  and  judicious 
pruning  to  a  due  proportion  with  their  roots ;  for  an  ox  fed  only 
through  a  wren's  quill,  could  not  long  exist.  This  will  seldom 
happen,  unless  by  accident  or  carelessness  in  the  taking  of  them 
up,  provided  they  are  raised  at  proper  distances  in  the  nursery. 
16 


242  THE  ORCHARD.  £MARCII 

The  arrangement  of  the  trees  in  the  orchard  should  be  in  rows, 
each  different  kind  of  fruit  separate,  and  at  distances  proportionate  to 
the  nature  of  their  growths.  Apple  and  pear-trees  may  be  planted 
at  fifty  feet  distance  every  way;  cherry  and  plum,  at  from  thirty  to 
forty;  peach,  nectarine,  apricot,  almonds,  and  quinces,  at  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  feet;  and  at  still  greater  distances,  if  you  are  not  limited 
in  extent  of  suitable  ground,  and  you  intend  to  raise  various  crops 
between  the  trees.  Pear-trees  on  quince  stocks  may  be  planted  ten 
feet  apart,  and  the  other  kinds  on  dwarf  stocks,  at  half  the  distance, 
as  mentioned  above  for  each  kind. 

You  should  have  great  regard  to  the  distance  of  planting  the  trees, 
which  is  what  few  people  have  rightly  considered;  for  if  you  plant 
them  too  close,  they  will  be  liable  to  blights ;  the  air  being  thereby 
pent  in  among  them,  will  also  cause  the  fruit  to  be  ill-tasted;  for  a 
great  quantity  of  damp  vapors  from  the  perspiration  of  the  trees,  and 
the  exhalation  from  the  earth  mixed  with  it,  will  be  imbibed  by  the 
fruit,  and  render  their  juices  crude  and  unwholesome  ;  besides,  it  is 
the  opinion  of  some  well  informed  naturalists  and  orchardists,  that 
these  vapors  and  perspiration  of  the  trees,  collect  the  heat  of  the  sun, 
and  reflect  it  in  streams,  so  as  to  cause  what  is  called  a  fire-blast, 
which  is  extremely  hurtful  to  fruit,  and  most  frequent  where  the 
orchards  are  open  to  the  south  sun. 

Having  your  trees  in  readiness,  proceed  to  stake  or  mark  out  the 
ground,  according  to  the  above  or  greater  distances,  placing  a  small 
stake  or  mark  where  each  hole  is  to  be  made  for  the  reception  of  the 
trees,  which,  if  made  to  range  every  way,  will  have  a  very  agreeable 
effect,  admit  the  currency  of  air  and  sun's  influence  more  effectually, 
and  make  the  orchard  still  more  convenient  for  tillage. 

A  wide  circular  hole  must  be  dug  for  every  tree,  capacious  enough 
to  receive  all  the  roots  freely  without  touching  the  sides,  but  by  no 
means  of  a  greater  depth  than  the  natural  good  soil ;  if  you  make  a 
deep  hole,  basin  like,  into  the  clay  bottom,  or  unfriendly  sub-soil, 
which  is  too  frequently  done,  and  plant  the  roots  therein,  even  filling 
it  round  with  good  earth  will  not  do,  for  as  soon  as  it  pushes  its  roots 
beyond  this,  they  must  enter  into  the  bad  and  unfriendly  soil,  which 
will  not  fail  to  bring  on  the  decay  of  the  most  healthy  tree,  and  can 
never  afford  it  suitable  juices  for  perfecting  delicious  fruit ;  besides 
the  lodgement  of  water  about  the  roots  in  this  confined  basin  in  wet 
seasons,  will  cause  the  tree  to  become  sickly,  and  to  get  overrun  with 
moss,  and  full  of  canker. 

When  the  holes  are  all  ready,  proceed  to  planting,  placing  a  tree 
in  each,  having  its  roots  trimmed  as  before,  one  person  holding  the 
stem  erect,  whilst  another  casts  in  the  earth,  previously  breaking  it 
small ;  let  it  be  settled  in  equally  between  all  the  roots,  by  gently 
and  frequently  shaking  the  tree  a  little  up  and  down,  which  will  cause 
the  mould  to  settle  in  close  about  all  the  small  roots  and  fibres ;  and 
also  to  raise  the  tree  gradually  up,  that  the  crown  of  the  roots  may 
not  be  more  than  about  three  or  four  inches  below  the  general  sur- 
face, even  in  the  deepest  soil.  When  the  hole  is  filled  up,  tread  it 
gently,  first  round  the  outside,  then  near  the  stem  of  the  tree;  form- 
ing the  surface  a  little  hollow,  to  admit  of  giving  water,  if  found 


MARCH]  THE  ORCHARD.  243 

necessary,  with  more  convenience ;  and  if  on  the  top  of  all  is  laid 
some  inverted  turf,  and  stones  over  this,  to  the  width  of  the  holes, 
forming  it  into  a  sort  of  circular  bank,  it  will  support  the  tree,  and 
guard  the  roots  from  powerful  heat,  drought  and  parching  winds; 
observing  that  each  tree  stands  perfectly  upright,  and  that  they 
range  exactly  in  their  proper  rows. 

Should  the  earth  be  rather  shallow,  so  that  you  cannot  cover  the 
roots  a  sufficient  depth  with  good  soil,  you  must  have  some  hauled 
for  that  purpose  to  where  each  tree  is  to  be  planted,  or  collected  to 
such  places,  from  the  general  surface,  and  bank  the  roots  around 
therewith;  for  there  is  no  alternative  between  planting  them  in  the 
good  soil,  where  their  roots  can  take  a  wide  extended  horizontal 
direction,  and  lie  within  the  reach  of  the  genial  influence  of  heat, 
rain,  dew  and  air,  and  that  of  an  untimely  end  if  planted  too  deep. 

When  you  desire  to  remove  large  trees  of  any  kind,  the  best 
method  will  be  to  open  trenches  about  their  roots,  immediately  pre- 
vious to  the  setting  in  of  the  frosts,  leaving  as  much  earth  around 
them  as  you  think  can  be  conveniently  moved  or  carried  with  the 
trees,  cutting  at  a  proper  distance  the  large  wide-spreading  roots, 
and  leaving  only  as  many  uncut  as  are  sufficient  to  prevent  their 
being  blown  down ;  when  you  find  the  earth  sufficiently  bound  by 
the  frost,  work  in  under,  and  take  them  up  with  the  balls,  place 
them  on  a  sled,  and  so  carry  them  to  their  place  of  destination ;  pre- 
vious to  planting,  smooth  all  the  wounded  parts,  and  prune  or  thin 
their  tops  in  proportion  to  their  loss  of  roots. 

When  a  defect  in  an  old  orchard  is  to  be  supplied,  it  will  be  ne- 
cessary to  take  away  the  earth  where  the  old  tree  stood  to  a  proper 
depth,  and  to  the  extent  of  a  circle  of  ten  feet  in  diameter,  which  fill 
up  with  fresh  earth  previous  to  planting ;  for  it  seldom  happens, 
without  this  management,  that  young  trees  thrive,  when  planted 
where  old  disordered  ones  stood. 

If  the  orchard  is  much  exposed  to  winds,  it  will  be  proper  to  stake 
the  new  planted  trees,  to  support  them  in  their  proper  positions,  and 
secure  them  from  being  rocked  to  and  fro  thereby,  which  would 
greatly  retard  their  rooting — placing  one  or  two  strong  tall  stakes  to 
each  tree ;  but  in  large  trees,  the  most  effectual  method  is  to  have 
three  stakes  to  each,  placed  in  a  triangle,  meeting  at  top  near  the 
head  of  the  tree,  wrapping  a  hay-band  around  that  part  of  the  stem, 
to  prevent  its  being  barked  by  the  stakes  or  ties ;  then  tie  the  stakes 
at  top  close  to  the  tree,  with  some  proper  bandage,  bringing  it  close 
about  the  stem  and  stakes  together,  over  the  hay-wrapping,  to  secure 
the  tree  firmly  in  an  erect  posture. 

If  your  young  orchard  is  laid  down  with  grass,  no  cattle  should 
be  turned  into  it  to  graze  at  large ;  unless  each  tree  is  previously  well 
secured  with  posts  and  railing,  otherwise  they  will  bark  the  trees,  to 
their  very  great  injury,  and  eat  off  the  tops  of  such  of  their  young 
shoots  as  they  can  reach ;  nor  should  large  cattle  be  turned  into  any 
orchards  where  the  branches  of  the  trees  are  yet  low  and  within  their 
reach. 

Where  great  quantities  of  fruit  are  wanted,  large  avenues  of  apple, 
pear,  peach,  and  cherry  trees,  &c.,  may  be  extended  across  neighbor- 


244  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH 

ing  fields,  which  will  render  them  pleasant,  and  produce  abundance 
of  fruit ;  or  there  may  be  single  rows  planted  to  surround  fields,  &c., 
which  will  be  found  extremely  profitable,  if  in  an  honest  neighbor- 
hood. 

You  may  now  plant  the  boundaries  of  large  orchards  with  English 
walnuts  and  Spanish  chestnuts;  these  will  not  only  afford  you  an 
abundance  of  fruit,  but  protect  the  trees  in  general  from  the  power 
of  tempestuous  winds.  A  small  quarter  of  the  orchard  may  be 
allotted  to  filberts,  mulberries,  medlars,  berberries,  &c.,  and  this  is  a 
proper  time  for  planting  them. 

For  the  method  of  raising  and  propagating  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees, 
&c.,  see  the  Nursery  for  this  and  the  preceding  month ;  and  also 
July. 


THE   VINEYARD. 

The  Vitis  vinifera,  or  common  wine-yielding  Vine,  is  a  native  of 
the  warmer  regions  of  Asia :  it  is  found  to  be  most  successful  in  the 
temperate  climates,  or  between  the  30th  and  50th  degrees  of  north 
and  south  latitudes. 

It  is  cultivated  in  the  greatest  perfection  in  the  Island  of  Madeira, 
lat.  32°  north ;  and  in  every  part  of  Europe  as  far  north  as  the  fif- 
tieth degree  of  latitude ;  also  at  the  Cape  of  G-ood  Hope,  about  lat. 
33°  50'  south,  as  well  as  in  every  corresponding  parallel  in  Asia  and 
the  civilized  parts  of  Africa :  yet  there  are  people  among  us  who 
seem  to  despair  of  its  being  possible  to  cultivate  it  successfully  in  the 
United  States,  and  who  by  this  kind  of  despondency  publicly  ex- 
pressed, discountenance  its  cultivation.  We  Jiave  similar  climates, 
and  as  suitable  soil  and  situations,  as  are  to  be  found  in  any  of  the 
countries  where  this  plant  is  cultivated,  and  what  to  attribute  this 
infidelity  to  I  am  at  a  loss  to  know.*  What  do  they  perceive  insalu- 
brious in  the  air,  or  unfriendly  to  vegetable  life  in  the  soil  of  Ame- 
rica, any  more  than  in  trans-atlantic  countries ;  or  are  they  led  estray 
by  prejudiced  European  writers,  whose  envy,  or  want  of  knowledge, 
or  perhaps  both,  had  prompted  them  to  assert,  that  neither  animals 
nor  vegetables  arrive  at  as  good  or  as  great  perfection  in  America  as 
in  Europe  ?  However,  a  little  time  and  some  industry  will  show 
that  this  prejudice  is  erroneous,  and  that  the  vine  can  be  cultivated 
in  the  far  greater  part  of  the  Union,  to  immense  national,  as  well  as 
individual  advantage. 

The  vine  was  originally  introduced  into  Europe  from  Asia  Minor  ; 
and  even  in  the  days  of  Lucullusj  the  Romans  were  seldom  able  to 

*  The  extreme  variation  of  temperature  in  the  northern  States  checks  the 
circulation  of  the  sap,  and  produces  mildew  in  the  European  kinds.  They 
can  be  and  are,  however,  grown  under  glass  to  as  great  perfection  as  in 
any  part  of  Europe.  Our  native  sorts  are  now  being  improved  by  fresh 
seedlings,  and  there  is  now  no  doubt  but  our  own  country  will  soon  e^ual 
the  finest  quality. 


MARCH]  THE  VINEYARD.  -245 

regale  themselves  with  its  juice,  very  little  wine  being  made  at  that 
time  within  the  compass  of  Italy ;  and  the  foreign  wines  which  they 
imported  from  Asia  were  so  dear,  that  they  were  rarely  introduced 
at  an  entertainment,  and  when  they  were,  each  guest  was  indulged 
only  with  a  single  draught.  But  in  the  seventh  century  of  Rome, 
as  their  conquests  augmented  the  degree  of  their  wealth,  this  luxury 
was  sought  after  with  avidity,  and  wines  became  the  object  of  par- 
ticular attention.  In  the  progress  of  their  conquests,  the  westerly 
parts  of  the  European  continent  was  at  once  subjected  to  the  arms 
and  enriched  with  the  vines  of  Italy  ;  its  cultivation  went  on  but 
slowly  for  some  time  in  these  countries,  where  it  has  since  become  a 
staple  article  of  great  national  importance,  perhaps  occasioned  by  the 
same  kind  of  doubts,  fears,  prejudices,  and  apprehensions  that  now 
operate  against  it  in  the  United  States ;  but  these  at  length  were  sur- 
mounted by  the  industry  of  a  few  cultivators  who  had  penetration 
enough  to  perceive  its  practicability,  and  who,  no  doubt,  were  amply 
remunerated,  in  consequence  of  being  first  in  market  with  large 
quantities :  others  perceiving  their  fortunate  success,  copied  their  ex- 
amples, in  expectation  of  obtaining  like  profits.  Similar  to  this  will 
be  its  progress  in  America,  and  those  who  first  commenced  the  busi- 
ness by  planting  on  an  extensive  scale,  will  assuredly  reap  the  richest 
harvests. 

The  culture  of  the  vine  for  some  time  will  be  an  experimental 
business  with  us;  however,  the  first  object  is  to  obtain  the  kinds  that 
will  immediately,  or  soonest,  accommodate  themselves  to  the  different 
regions  of  the  Union;  perhaps  those  from  Madeira,  or  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  would  best  suit  in  the  southern  States ;  those  from  the 
south  of  Europe,  in  the  middle;  and  those  from  Burgundy,  Cham- 
pagne, Switzerland,  Bordeaux,  or  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  in  the 
eastern  States.  Trials  of  this  kind  should  be  made,  and  the  result 
carefully  attended  to ;  and,  indeed,  each  and  every  of  the  States 
should  give  a  fair  trial  to  the  vines  of  every  country,  from  whence 
they  can  be  procured ;  by  which  means,  and  by  which  only,  they  can 
discover  those  best  adapted  to  their  respective  soils  and  climates. 

There  is  not  the  least  doubt  but  the  vines  of  a  temperate  climate 
can  be  naturalized  in  any  State  in  the  Union  in  a  very  short  time  : 
for  there  is  an  astonishing  facility  in  plants  to  accommodate  them- 
selves to  soil  and  climate,  and  in  very  few  more  than  in  the  vine. 
The  helianthus  annuus,  or  common  annual  sunflower,  is  a  native  of 
Mexico  and  Peru;  and  yet  we  all  know  that  it  now  grows  in  every 
part  of  the  Union  where  introduced,  as  well  as  if  it  were  indigenous. 
The  helianthus  tuberosus,  or  what  is  commonly  called  the  Jerusalem 
artichoke,  is  a  tropical  plant,  being  a  native  of  Brazil,  and  is  become 
naturalized  to  our  climates,  as  well  as  to  those  of  Europe,  as  far  north 
as  St.  Petersburg,  and  perhaps  farther.  The  cherry-tree,  when  first 
introduced  into  Italy  by  Lucullus,  a  Roman  general,  from  the  city  of 
Cerasus,  in  Pontus,  whence  its  name  Prunus  Cerasus,  was  there 
treated  as  a  tender  exotic ;  by  degrees  it  had  crept  into  Britain, 
where  it  was  treated  for  some  time  in  like  manner ;  and  experience 
now  proves  that  it  thrives  in  America  as  well  as  in  Italy,  Britain, 
or  Pontus  itself.  Thousands  of  other  instances  could  be  adduced  of 


246  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH 

the  wisdom  and  goodness  of  the  Creator  in  furnishing  plants  with 
those  accommodating  powers;  but  the  vine  has  manifested  itself  in 
so  many,  and  so  universally,  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  recapitulate 
them  ;  yet  we  frequently  meet  with  people  who  say  "it  will  never 
succeed  here !  !"* 

It  may,  however,  be  proper  to  remark,  that  where  the  peach-tree 
perfects  its  fruit  in  open  field  culture,  so  will  the  vine;  the  latter  is 
even  capable  of  bearing  greater  degrees  of  heat,  and  of  producing 
fruit  in  perfection  in  higher  latitudes  than  the  former,  manifested  by 
the  quantity  of  wine  made  in  many  places  in  the  south  of  England, 
from  its  productions  in  open  vineyard  culture;  whilst  there  they  could 
not  have  a  single  peach  from  a  thousand  trees  cultivated  in  the  same 
way,  principally  owing  to  the  want  of  a  sufficiency  of  summer  heat 
to  ripen  the  young  wood;  and  mild  as  their  winters  are,  in  compari- 
son to  ours,  they,  under  such  circumstances,  generally  destroy  the 
pithy  and  unripened  shoots  of  the  peach,  without  doing  near  so  much 
injury  to  those  of  the  vine.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  well  known  that 
the  grape-vine  will  bear  fruit  abundantly,  year  after  year,  when  forced 
in  pine  stoves,  with  pine-apples,  where,  if  a  peach  was  introduced,  it 
would  scarcely  survive  one  season ;  at  least  it  would  not  produce  a 
single  fruit  worth  eating  the  second. 

Before  entering  on  the  general  culture,  I  shall  give  a  short  descrip- 
tion of  the  varieties  of  the  grape  hitherto  cultivated  in  Europe,  either 
for  making  wine,  or  for  the  table;  many  of  which  are  now  under 
trial  at  the  Spring-Mill  Vineyard,  within  fourteen  miles  of  Phila- 
delphia, the  property  of  a  company  incorporated  by  the  legislature 
of  Pennsylvania,  "for  the  promotion  of  the  culture  of  the  vine,"  and 
under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Peter  Legaux,  an  experienced  vine- 
dresser, and  a  gentleman  of  worth  and  science. 

These  I  shall  divide  into  three  classes,  in  the  order  of  their  ripen- 
ing. 1.  Those  which  ripen  earliest.  2.  Those  which  succeed  them; 
and  3.  The  latest  coming  to  maturity.  Perhaps  the  first  class  might 
be  best  adapted  for  the  more  immediate  culture  in  the  eastern  States; 
the  second  in  the  middle ;  and  the  third  in  the  southern  States.  But, 
experiments  on  all  the  kinds  that  it  is  possible  to  procure,  should  be 
tried  in  each  State  of  the  Union ;  giving,  at  the  same  time,  suitable 
soil  and  situation  to  each  class,  according  to  their  periods  of  ripen- 
ing; that  is,  to  give  the  latest  kinds  the  warmest  exposure,  &c. 

FIRST  CLASS. 

1.  The  "White  Frontinac,  or  Muscat  Blanc,  is  a  high  flavored  grape, 
and  has  a  peculiar  rich  juice  when  perfectly  ripe;  the  bunches  are 
large,  and  the  berries,  which  are  round,  are  very  closely  joined  to 
each  other,  whereby  some  of  them  in  wet  seasons  are  apt  to  rot  before 
they  are  ripe,  which,  in  some  measure,  is  owing  to  the  thinness  of 

*  Notwithstanding  the  sanguine  expectations  of  our  author,  it  has  now 
been  proved  by  experience  that  the  exotic  grape  will  not  thrive  and  grow 
to  perfection  in  our  changeable  climate,  excepting  in  the  most  favored 
localities. 


MARCH]  THE  VINEYARD.  24 Y 

their  skins:  those  who  wish  to  have  them  in  the  best  perfection,  will 
thin  them  out  when  about  the  size  of  peas,  whereby  the  air  will  have 
free  admittance,  and  those  which  are  left,  will  be  larger  and  higher 
flavored. 

2.  The  Blue,  or  Violet  Frontinac,  Muscat  Violet.     This  has  a  small 
black  berry,  powdered  with  a  fine  blue  or  violet  bloom,  and  is  of  an 
exalted  vinous  flavor.     The  berries  grow  close  upon  the  bunches, 
which  are  very  small. 

3.  The    White  Sweet  Water.     This  is  a  very  large  round  white 
grape.     The  berries  grow  close  on  the  bunch,  which  is  of  a  moderate 
size,  and  are  replete  with  an  agreeable  juice.     The  skin  and  flesh  of 
this  grape  are  more  delicate  than  of  any  other  sort.     The  berries  on 
the  sides  of  the  bunches  next  the  sun,  are  clouded  with  spots  of  a 
russet  color. 

4.  The  Black  Sweet  Water.     The  berries  of  this  variety  are  much 
smaller  than  the  former ;  are  black,  roundish,  grow  in  small,  short, 
close  bunches,  and  are  replete  with  a  very  sweet  juice. 

5.  The  Brick  Grape.     The  berries  of  this  kind  are  small,  inclin- 
ing to  an  oval  figure,  and  of  a  pale  red  or  brick  color.     This  is  a  very 
sweet  grape,  though  not  much  admired. 

6.  The  White  Muscadine,  or   Ghasselas  Blanc.     This  is  a  round 
white  berry,  moderately  large,  with  a  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy 
flesh.     The  bunch  is  well  formed  and  of  a  pretty  good  size.     This  is 
an  early  grape  and  a  great  bearer. 

7.  The  Munier,  or  Miller's  Burgundy  Grape.     The  berries  are 
small,  black,  rather  inclining  to  an  oval  figure,  and  grow  close  on  the 
bunch,  which  is  commonly  short  and  small.     The  skin  and  flesh  are 
delicate,  possessing  a  sweet  and  pleasant  juice.     The  leaves  are  dis- 
tinguishable from  most  others  by  a  hoary  down,  especially  when 
young,  being  then  almost  white.     This  is  an  excellent  bearer,  and  a 
principal  grape  to  be  cultivated  for  wine. 

8.  The  Small  Black  Cluster.     The  berries  and  bunches  of  this 
grape  are  little  different  from  the  former,  but  the  leaves  have  less 
down,  and  are  smaller.     This  is  a  delicate  sweet  fruit,  and  is  some- 
times called  the  Burgundy  grape. 

9.  The  Early  Black  July  Grape,  Morillon  Noir,  or  Hatif  Noir. 
This  has  a  small  black  round  berry,  replete  with  a  sugary  juice  j  the 
bunches  also  are  small,  and  thin  set,  but  it  is  also  a  prolific  bearer, 
and  comes  to  the  table  at  an  early  period. 

10.  The  Early  White  Grape,  from  Teneri/e.     The  berries  of  this 
variety  are  round,  white,  and  of  a  moderate  size,  with  thin  skins  and 
delicate  juicy  flesh,  of  an  extraordinary  sweetness.     The  berries  and 
bunches  much  resemble  the  common  Muscadine,  to  which  it  appears 
to  have  a  near  affinity. 

11.  The  Auvernat  Noir  of  Orleans,  Pineau  of  Burgundy,  or 
True  Burgundy  Grape,  sometimes  called  the  black  morillou,  is  an 
indifferent  fruit  for  the  table,  but  is  esteemed  one  of  the  best  for 
making  wine.     It  is  of  a  middle  size,  somewhat  of  an  oval,  and  of 
a  fine  black  color  j  the  bunches  are  longer  than  Miller's  Burgundy. 


248  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH 


SECOND   CLASS. 

12.  The  Aleppo  Grape.     This  is  a  middle-sized,  roundish  grape, 
with  a  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy  flesh,  of  an  exquisite  vinous  fla- 
vor.    The  color  is  commonly  very  various,  some  of  the  berries  being 
white,  others  black,  but  the  major  part  are  curiously  striped  with 
black  and  white;  but  what  appears  most   remarkable  is,  that  the 
colors  do  not  intermix,  but  are  divided  by  straight  lines  as  if  painted. 
The  leaves  of  this  sort  are  in  the  autumn  very  curiously  striped  with 
red,  green,  and  yellow,  somewhat  similar  to  the  Aleppo  lettuce. 

13.  The  Grizzly  Frontinac.    The  berries  of  this  grape  are  round, 
tolerably  large,  and  their  color  brown  and  red,  intermixed  with  yel- 
low.    Both  this  and  No.  1  possess  a  high,  musky,  perfumed  flavor. 

14.  The  Black  or  Purple  Frontinac,  or  Muscat  Noir.     The  berries 
of  this  variety  are  black  when  ripe,  and  covered  with  a  kind  of  pow- 
der, which  gives  them  a  purple  hue ;  are  moderately  large,  round, 
and  of  a  most  exquisite  flavor.     They  compose  very  long  bunches. 
This  has  formerly  been  called  the  red  Frontinac,  and  is  one  of  the 
very  best  grapes.     It  is  called  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  the  black 
Constantia. 

15.  The  Red  Frontinac,  or  Muscat  Rouge.     This  is  a  very  fine 
grape  and  greatly  esteemed.     The  berries  are  of  a  brick  color,  thin 
skin,  moderate  size,  and  juicy  delicate  flesh. 

16.  The  Black  Hamburg.     The  berries  of  this  variety  are  large, 
inclining  to  an  oval  figure,  and  of  a  black  color.     They  hang  loosely 
on  the  bunch,  and  compose  well-formed  handsome  bunches.     The 
skin  is  thick,  and  the  pulp  hard ;  but,  notwithstanding,  it  is  a  very 
valuable  grape,  being  a  good  flavored  fruit  and  a  plentiful  bearer. 

17.  The  Red  Hamburg.     The  berries  of  this  sort  are  of  a  dark 
red,  with  thin  skins  and  juicy  delicate  flesh.     The  size  and  figure  of 
both  the  berry  and  bunch  are  nearly  like  the  former.     It  is  some- 
times called  the  Gibraltar  grape. 

18.  The  Malvoise.     The  berries  of  this  are  small,  rather  inclining 
to  an  oval  figure,  and  of  a  brown  color.     The  skin  is  thin,  and  the 
flesh  delicate,  replete  with  a  vinous  juice.     As  the  berries  are  pow- 
dered with  a  blue  bloom,  it  is  sometimes  called  the  blue  Tokay. 

19..  The  Genuine  Tokay.  This  is  a  white  grape.  The  berries 
incline  to  an  oval  figure,  and  grow  rather  close  on  the  bunch,  which 
is  of  a  moderate  size.  The  skin  is  thin  and  flesh  delicate,  abounding 
with  a  very  agreeable  juice.  This  variety  is  very  distinguishable  by 
the  foliage,  the  under  side  of  the  leaf  being  covered  with  a  fine  soft 
down,  having  the  appearance  of  satin. 

20.  The  Lombardy  Grape.     This  has  a  large  berry  inclining  to 
an  oval  figure,  of  a  beautiful  flame  color.     The  bunches  are  regularly 
formed  with  shoulders,  and  frequently  arrive  to  the  weight  of  six  or 
seven  pounds.     The  leaves  are  much  more  divided  than  most  other 
sorts,  and  the  upper  surface  is  of  a  deep  green  color.     This  is  by 
some  called   the  Rhenish   grape,  and   by  others  the  flame-colored 
Tokay. 

21.  The  Smyrna  Grape.     This  has  a  large  red- colored  berry  of 


MAlfbll]  THE  VINEYARD.  249 

an  oval  figure,  with  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy  flesh.  It  forms  long 
branches,  with  shoulders  loosely  connected.  The  leaves  in  autumn 
die  with  purple  edges. 

22.  The  Alicant,  or  Black  Spanish  Grape.     The  berries  of  this 
variety  incline  to  an  oval  shape,  are  moderately  large  and  black,  and 
form  exceedingly  long  unshouldered  bunches.    The  flesh  is  soft,  juicy, 
and  of  an  agreeable  flavor.     The  leaves  in  autumn  are  beautifully 
variegated  with  red,  green,  and  yellow.     This  is  a  pretty  good  fruit, 
and  is  sometimes,  though  incorrectly,  called  the  Lornbardy  grape. 

23.  The  Black  Muscadine.     The  berries  and  bunches  of  this  va- 
riety are  somewhat  smaller  than  those  of  No.  7.     This  is  a  very 
prolific  grape,  and  makes  a  fine  appearance  on  account  of  the  black 
berries  being  powdered  with  a  bluish  bloom  ;  but  the  flesh  is  not  so 
delicate  and  juicy  as  the  former. 

24.  The  Royal  Muscadine,  D' Arboyce,  or  Chasselas  Blanc.    This 
has  a  round  white  or  amber-colored  berry,  of  a  moderate  size,  a  thin 
skin,  and  a  juicy  soft  flesh.     The  bunches  are  generally  exceeding 
large,  sometimes  arriving  to  six  or  seven  pounds.     This  variety  is 
very  distinguishable  by  the   wood   and  foliage,  generally  growing 
remarkably  gross  and  strong,  and  is  considered  an  excellent  table 
grape. 

25.  The  Malmsey  Muscadine.     This  seems  nearly  allied  to  the 
preceding,  but  the  bunches  and  berries  are  somewhat  smaller,  and 
the  juice  of  a  higher  flavor,  being  remarkably  sweet.     This  is  a  good 
bearer,  a  very  fine  grape,  and  said  to  be  one  of  those  of  which  the 
Madeira  wine  is  made. 

26.  The  Claret  Grape.     The  berries  of  this  are  small,  black,  and 
inclining  to  an  oval  figure;  they  grow  close  and  form  small  bunches. 
The  juice  is  of  a  blood-red  color,  of  a  harsh  taste,  excepting  the 
grapes  are  perfectly  matured,  and  then  it  may  be  considered  as  an 
agreeable  and  delicate  fruit.     The  leaves  change  from  green  to  a 
russet-red  early  in  summer,  and  die  a  deep  red  in  autumn. 

27.  The  Large  Black  Cluster,  or  Lisbon  Grape.     The  berries  are 
large  and  grow  more  oval  than  the  two  former  varieties,  which  are 
black,  and  not  so  delicate,  the  juice  being  of  a  harsh  and  rough 
taste.     The  leaves  in  autumn,  when  on  the  decline,  change  to  a  beau- 
tiful bright  scarlet.     This  is  the  grape  of  which  the  red  port  wine  is 
made. 

28.  The  White  Morillon.     This  has   an  oval  white  berry,  of  a 
moderate  size,  with  thin  skin  and   delicate  juicy  flesh.     It  grows 
close  on  the  bunches,  which  are  small.     The  leaves  are  soft,  being 
greatly  covered  with  down  on  the  under  side,  somewhat  similar  to 
the  genuine  Tokay  grape,  to  which  it  appears  nearly  allied. 

29.  Cat's  Grape.     This  has  a  small  oval  berry,  of  a  -greenish- 
white  color,  with  a  thin  skin  and  soft  juicy  flesh.     The  berries  grow 
close,  forming  small  bunches.     The  taste  of  this  fruit  before  it  is 
quite  matured  is  disagreeable ;  but  when  perfectly  ripe  is  very  sweet 
and  pleasing  to  some  palates. 

30.  The  St.  Peter's  Grape.     This  has  a  pretty  large  berry,  in- 
clining to  an  oval  form,  and  of  a  deep  black  color  when  ripe;  the 
skin  is  thin,  and  the  flesh  very  delicate  and  juicy.     This  vine  pro- 


250  THE  VINEYARD. 

duces  large  shouldered  bunches,  and  the  leaves  are  much  more  divided 
than  those  of  most  other  sorts. 

31.  The  Black  Grape  from  Palestine.     This  appears  nearly  simi- 
lar to  the  preceding,  but  may  probably  be  a  distinct  variety. 

32.  The  White  Parsley -Leaved  Grape,  or  Giotat.     This  is  a  va- 
riety of  the  parsley-leaved  grape.     The  berries  are  round,  white,  of 
a  moderate  size,  with  thin  skins  and  delicate  juicy  flesh,  which  is 
very  sweet  but  not  of  a  vinous  flavor.     The  branches  are  of  a  pretty 
good  size,  almost  similar  to  the  white  Muscadine.     The  leaves  are 
finely  divided,  differing  from  any  other  sort.     There  is  a  variety  of 
the  parsley-leaved  grape  which  produces  red  berries. 

83.  The  Black  Lisbon  Grape.  This  has  a  large  globular  berry, 
black,  thin  skinned,  and  juicy.  It  has  also  large  shouldered  bunches, 
which  not  a  little  resemble  the  black  Hamburg.  This  is  a  good 
grape. 

34.  The   Greek   Grape.     The  berries  of    this  variety   are  of    a 
moderate  size,  rather  inclining  to  an  oval  figure,  of  a  bluish-white 
color,  and  grow  close,  forming  moderate  sized  handsome  bunches. 
The  leaves  grow  on   very  short  footstalks,  and  bear  a  resemblance 
to  those  of  the  Sweet  Water.     It  is  a  delicate  and  justly  esteemed 
fruit. 

35.  The  White   Corinth  Grape.     This  has  a  white,  round  berry, 
rather  small,  with  a  thin  skin  and  very  delicate  juicy  flesh,  of  an 
agreeable  flavor.     The  bunches  too  are  rather  small.     The  berries, 
when  perfectly  ripe,  are  transparent,  so  that  the  seeds  appear  very 
distinctly. 

36.  The  White  Muscat  of  LUNEL.     The  berries  of  this  are  large 
and  oval,  and  when  perfectly  ripe  are  of  a  fine  amber  color,  some- 
what clouded  with  brown  or  russet,  especially  on  the  side  next  the 
sun.     The  skin^is  thin  and  the  flesh  delicate,  replete  with  a  vinous 
juice.     As  this  grape  is  a  very  plentiful  bearer,  and  forms  pretty 
large  bunches,  it  may  justly  be  deemed  a  valuable  sort. 

37.  The  Red  Chasselas,  or  Chasselas  Rouge  is  very  like  the  Chas- 
selas  Blanc,  No.  6,  in  size  and  shape,  but  is  of  a  dark  red  color.     It 
is  a  very  good  grape,  but  ripens  later  than  the  white. 


THIRD   CLASS. 

38.  The  White  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  or  Alexandrian  Frontinac. 
The  berries  of  this  are  large  and  oval,  the  bunches  long,  and,  when 
perfectly  ripe,  are  of  a  fine  amber  color ;  the  skin  thick,  pulp  firm, 
the  juice  rich  and  vinous,  and  of  a  high  musky  flavor;  the  berries 
hang  loosely,  ripen  well,  and  are  in  great  estimation. 

39.  The  Red  Muscat  of  Alexandria.     This  resembles  the  former, 
only  the  berries  are  red ;  it  is  a  most  excellent  grape,  and  highly 
worthy  of  cultivation. 

40.  The  Black  Damascus.     The  berries  of  this  are  large,  round, 
and  of  a  fine  black  color;  the  skin  thin,  the  flesh  juicy,  and  of  an 
exquisite  flavor.     The  same  bunch  commonly  consists  of  different 
sizes ;  the  small  berries  are  without  stones,  and  the  large  ones  con- 
tain only  one  in  each  berry ;  this  is  an  excellent  sort. 


MARCH]  THE  VINEYARD.  251 

41.  The  Black  Tripoli  Grape.     This  grape  seems  nearly  allied 
to  the  black  Damascus,  but  the  bunches  are  always  composed  of  large 
berries  of  an  equal  size,  and  with  one  stone  in  each.     This  circum- 
stance of  the  berries  being  equal  in  size,  renders  the  bunches  of  a 
more  agreeable  appearance ;  the  foliage  in  both  are  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful in  the  fall,  assuming  a  reddish  hue,  and  very  similar :  this  is  a 
very  good  grape. 

42.  The  Red  Grape  from  Syracuse.     This  is  a  very  large  grape, 
of  a  red  color  and  oval  figure,  somewhat  irregularly  formed ;  the  ber- 
ries hang  together  loosely  on  the  bunches,  which  are  pretty  large  : 
this  is  a  most  excellent  grape. 

43.  Le    Cceur   Grape,  or  Morocco   Grape.     This  produces  large 
berries,  in  figure  somewhat  heart-shaped,  and  of   a  tawny  grizzly 
color.     The  bunches  are  often  composed  of  unequal  sized  berries, 
some  of  them  exceedingly  large ;  these  never  contain  more  than  one 
stone  each,  and  the  lesser-sized  berries  are  always  without  stones. 
The  footstalks  of  the  berries  are  short,  and  singularly  large,  differ- 
ing from  most  other  sorts.     This  is  a  much  esteemed  grape. 

44.  The  Golden  Gallician.     The  berries  of  this  variety  are  large, 
and  of  an  oval  figure ;  the  flesh  hard,  but  of  a  tolerable  flavor  :  these, 
together  with  the  footstalks,  are  of  a  light  yellow  color. 

45.  The  Black  Mmcadel.     The  berries  of  this  are  large,  oval,  and 
of  a  black  color ;  the  skin  thin,  with  a  delicate  juicy  flesh.     The 
same  bunch  contains  berries  of  different  sizes,  some  of  them  very 
large  and  long,  but  somewhat  compressed  at  the  ends  :  the  leaves 
change  in  autumn  to  a  beautiful  scarlet. 

46.  The  Red  Muscadel.     The  berries  of  this  sort  are  large,  oval, 
and  of  a  beautiful  red  color ;  the  skin  thick,  and  the  flesh  hard, 
something  like  the  raisin  grape.     The  bunches  frequently  arrive  to 
five  or  six  pounds,  and  are  most  elegantly  formed  of  berries  of  an. 
equal  size.     This  is  one  of  the  largest  grapes.     The  leaves  change 
in  autumn  to  a  beautiful  red  and  green. 

47.  The  White  Grape  from  Alcobaca.  This  has  a  large  oval,  white 
berry  with  a  thin  skin  and  juicy  flesh ;  the  bunches  are  large  and 
long,  without  shoulders. 

48.  The  White  Hamburg.  This  has  an  oval  berry,  with  a  thick 
skin  and  hard  flesh.     As  this  variety  is  a  plentiful  bearer,  and  forms 
large  bunches,  it  is  much  admired  by  some,  but  is  not  so  valuable  as 
either  of  the  two  preceding  kinds.     It  is  sometimes  called  the  Portu- 
gal Grape. 

49.  The  Syrian  Grape.  The  berries  are  white,  large,  and  of  an 
oval  figure;  the  skin  thick,  and  the  flesh  firm  and  hard;  the  bunches 
well  formed,  and  enormously  large.     Though  this  is  generally  con- 
sidered as  a  coarse  fruit,  it  has  properties  that  ought  to  introduce  it 
into  every  large  collection.     It  is  very  prolific,  and  the  bunches  com- 
monly grow  very  large,  sometimes  to  upwards  of  twelve  pounds, 
making  a  most  beautiful  appearance,  and,  when  well  perfected,  may 
be  called  a  very  eatable  fruit;  they  may  without  difficulty  be  kept 
many  weeks  longer  than  any  other  kind.     This  grape  requires  a  very 
warm  exposure. 

50.  The  Black  Raisin  Grape.    The  berries  of  this  variety  are 


252  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH 

oval  and  black,  with  a  thick  skin,  and  a  hard,  firm  flesh.     It  forms 
long,  handsome  bunches. 

51.  The  White  Raisin  Grape.  The  properties  of  this  grape  are 
nearly  similar  to  the  preceding,  but  the  berries  are  white. 

52.  The  Damson  Grape.    The  berries  of  this  variety  are  very 
large,  oval,  and  of  a  beautiful  purple  color.     They  grow  loose  on  the 
bunch,  which  is  large.     The  leaves  of  this  grape  are  large,  and  more 
thick  and  succulent  than  those  of  any  other  sort,  and  have  some- 
thing of  the  appearance  of  green  leather. 

53.  The  CornicJion  Grape.    The  berries  of  a  remarkable  shape, 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  long;  their  breadth  not  half  an  inch.    They 
taper  from  the  stock,  but  not  in  a  regular  manner,  and  end  in  a  blunt 
point,  according  to  the  French,  something  like  a  horn ;  but  its  figure 
is  more  like  the  long  end  of  a  small  fish's  bladder.     The  berries  are 
white,  with  a  thick  skin,  and  a  firm,  sweet  flesh. 

54.  The  New  Muscat  of  Jerusalem.  This  variety  has  large,  round 
berries  of  a  red  color,  nearly  as  large  as  middle-sized  gooseberries. 

55.  The  Black  Prince.  This  has  fine,  large,  black  berries  and  the 
bunches  grow  to  a  large  size,  frequently  to  a  pound  and  a  half. 

AMERICAN  SPECIES  OF  VINE. 

The  following  species  of  the  vine  are  indigenous  in  America. 

1st.  The  Vitis  sylvestris,  or  common  bunch  grape. 

2d.  The  Vitis  vulpina,  of  Bartram ;  V.  Labrusca,  of  Linn.,  or 
fox -grape. 

3d.  The  Vitis  taurina,  of  Bartram,  or  Vitis  Vulpina,  of  Linn.; 
commonly  called  the  bull  or  bullet  grape. 

4th.  The  Vitis  serotina,  or  winter  grape,  by  some  called  the  Ber- 
mudian  grape. 

There  are  several  varieties  produced  by  the  intermixtures  of  the 
above  with  one  another,  or  with  the  varieties  of  the  Vitis  vinifera, 
which  are  called  hybrids  or  mules;  the  most  noted  are,  1.  Alexander's 
or  Tasker's  grape;  2.  Bland' s  grape ;  3.  That  called  the  Raccoon 
grape.  And  now  may  be  added  the  Catawba,  Isabella,  Diana,  Con- 
cord, Rebecca,  Canadian  Chief,  &c.,  &c.  From  either  of  these  hy- 
brids, it  is  probable  that  good  wine  may  be  produced ;  but  I  shall 
leave  that  to  the  experience  of  those  who  have  made,  or  wish  to 
make  the  experiment.*  At  the  same  time,  I  would  suggest  the 
idea  of  grafting  some  of  the  best  European  kinds  on  our  most  vigor- 
ous native  vines,  which,  no  doubt,  would  answer  a  very  good  pm> 


SOIL  AND  SITUATION. 

The  first  and  most  important  thing  to  be  considered  in  planting  a 
vineyard,  is  the  choice  of  soil  and  situation ;  for  on  these  depends 

*  These  experiments  have  since  been  carried  out,  and  have  proved  emi- 
nently successful.  There  is  now  more  than  three  million  bottles  of  wine 
manufactured  in  the  State  of  Ohio  annually,  principally  from  the  Catawba. 
The  improvement  of  our  native  grapes  is  progressing  wonderfully. 


MARCH]  THE  VINEYARD.  253 

much  of  the  ultimate  success.  That  best  adapted  for  a  vineyard, 
is  a  light,  rich,  deep  loam ;  on  a  chalky,  limestone,  flinty,  or  gravelly 
bottom ;  it  should  be  naturally  from  one  to  two  feet  deep,  of  good 
mellow  earth,  or  made  so  by  art;  a  deeper  soil  is  unnecessary  for  any 
tree  or  shrub  whatever,  that  is  not  cultivated  on  account  of  its  roots; 
and  although  vines  may  shoot  more  vigorously  in  such,  and  produce 
a  greater  quantity  of  fruit,  which,  by  the  bye,  is  very  questionable, 
yet  they  ripen  later,  and  their  juice  is  more  crude  than  that  of  those 
which  draw  their  nourishment  from  earth  within  the  influence  of  the 
sun,  air,  rains,  dews,  &c. 

The  situation  should  be  on  an  elevation  inclining  to  the  south, 
southeast,  or  southwest ;.  and  if  having  all  these  exposures,  the 
better,  as  the  various  kinds  could  have  different  situations  according 
to  their  natures  and  necessities.  The  ground  shoutd  have  a  gradual 
descent,  that  the  moisture  may  be  drained  off;  but  if  too  rapid,  it 
will  be  more  difficult  to  labor,  as  the  plough  cannot  then  be  used ; 
and  besides,  it  will  be  less  retentive  of  manure,  and  consequently  will 
require  a  greater  quantity,  and  more  frequently  administered.  If  at 
a  distance  there  are  large  hills,  or  elevated  woods,  to  defend  it  from 
the  north  and  northwesterly  winds,  the  better. 

The  immediate  neighborhood  should  be  open ;  and,  if  hilly,  towards 
the  north  and  northwest,  the  better ;  it  should  be  free  from  swamps, 
or  widely  extended  woods;  for,  under  such  circumstances,  the  air 
would  frequently  be  replete  with  too  great  a  quantity  of  moisture, 
occasioned  by  the  perspiration  of  the  trees,  and  the  exhalations  from 
the  adjoining  swamps,  whereby  both  vines  and  fruit  would  be  greatly 
subjected  to  what  is  called  the  mildew.  It  has  been  observed  in  the 
middle  States,  particularly  by  Mr.  Peter  Legaux,  of  Spring-Mill, 
near  Philadelphia,  that  the  more  easterly  the  exposure,  the  more 
are  the  vines  and  fruit  liable  to  become  mildewed ;  and  that,  in  a 
southwest  exposure,  they  are  less  subject  to  it  than  in  any  other. 

Those  who  wish  to  cultivate  grapes  for  the  table  only,  and  that 
have  not  the  advantage  of  the  kind  of  soil  above  described,  needjiot 
despair  of  having  good  fruit  for  that  purpose,  as  vin§s  will  grow  and 
bear  well  in  any  dry  and  tolerably  rich  ground ;  that  is,  neither  sandy 
nor  light  to  excess,  nor  too  clayey  or  binding;  for  a  tolerable  stiff 
loam  will  do  well  enough,  with  the  assistance  of  good  culture. 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL. 

Having  made  choice  of  soil  and  situation,  the  next  thing  to  be 
done  is  to  prepare  it  for  planting ;  in  doing  of  which,  the  following 
method  is  to  be  observed :  In  the  spring,  if  the  soil  is  not  naturally 
rich,  give  it  a  good  coat  of  well-rotted  manure,  or  compost ;  and  im- 
mediately plough  it  in  as  deep  as  can  be  done,  with  four  or  six  stout 
horses  or  oxen,  and  a  strong  plough ;  after  it  has  lain  a  month,  cross 
harrow  it,  and  cleanse  it  from  stones  and  the  roots  of  noxious  weeds. 
About  the  middle  of  June,  cross  plough  it  again  as  deep  as  possible  ; 
in  three  weeks  after,  harrow  it,  and  clear  off  all  the  roots  of  weeds 
and  large  stones.  Towards  the  latter  end  of  August,  plough  it  again, 


254  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH 

and  harrow  as  before.  In  November,  give  it  another  very  deep 
ploughing,  and  let  it  lay  so  all  winter,  without  harrowing.  As  early 
in  the  month  of  March,  following,  as  you  find  it  sufficiently  dry,  and 
in  good  state  for  tillage,  but  not  before,  plough  it  across  the  hill,  and 
as  deep  as  you  can,  running  the  plough  twice  in  each  score :  then 
harrow  it  well,  and  you  have  it  in  a  fine  state  for  planting. 

In  some  ground,  and  very  frequently  in  that  extremely  well  adapted 
to  the  culture  of  the  vine,  the  declivity  is  too  great  to  cultivate  it  with 
the  plough ;  in  which  case  it  must  be  done  with  the  spade,  and  other 
manual  implements;  and  it  would  be  well  if  such  land  could  be 
thrown  or  banked  up  into  terraces,  each  capable  of  receiving  one, 
two,  or  three  rows  of  vines,  the  better  to  retain  the  necessary  manure 
and  moisture. 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  PLANTING,  ETC. 

Being  provided  with  a  number  of  four  feet  stakes,  in  proportion  to 
the  quantity  you  intend  planting,  and  made  as  directed  in  January, 
page  60,  mark  out  your  ground  in  rows  ranging  north  and  south,  as 
well  as  east  and  west,  by  placing  those  stakes  at  intervals  of  six  feet 
distance  every  way,  so  as  it  may  be  convenient  to  plough  and  harrow 
between  the  rows  in  these  directions.  This  is  meant  for  a  south 
exposure;  but  in  others,  they  are  generally  arranged  up  and  down 
hill  as  well  as  across ;  though  the  former  direction  may  be  given  to 
the  rows  in  any  situation,  and  perhaps  with  more  advantage  as  to 
ease  of  culture,  and  benefit  of  the  sun. 

Six  feet  plant  from  plant,  every  way,  will  not  be  too  great  a  dis- 
tance, however  it  may  appear  at  first  view;  especially  in  a  country 
where  Providence  has  been  very  bountiful  in  blessing  its  inhabitants 
with  abundance  of  ground,  as  well  as  with  everything  else  that  tends 
to  make  an  industrious  man  happy;  for  if  planted  too  close,  there 
will  not  be  room  for  the  sun  and  air  to  pass  freely  between  the  rows, 
to  ripen  the  fruit,  and  dry  up  the  moisture  and  autumnal  damps, 
which  would  otherwise  be  imbibed  by  the  fruit,  and  render  it  crude 
and  insipid ;  and  more  particularly  so  when  their  stocks  grow  large, 
and  their  branches  proportionably  extend  themselves  on  each  side. 

The  next  thing  to  be  considered  is  the  choice  of  proper  sorts.  It 
is  worthy  of  particular  notice,  that  the  best  grapes  for  eating  are,  for 
the  most  part,  the  worst  for  making  wine.  This  is  agreeable  to  the 
practice  of  cider-makers,  who  always  prefer  the  rough,  juicy,  and 
austere  kinds  of  apples  to  those  that  are  considered  best  for  the 
table,  and  also  to  that  of  the  most  skilful  Vignerons  of  Europe,  who 
are  very  particular  in  selecting  such  kinds  of  grapes  whose  juice, 
after  being  pressed  and  properly  fermented,  affords  a  vinous,  rich 
liquor. 

The  Auvernat  Noir,  or  true  Burgundy  grape,  is  the  kind  most 
preferred,  and  in  the  greatest  repute  in  Burgundy,  Champagne, 
Orleans,  and  most  of  the  vine  countries  in  France.  The  Munier  is 
also  in  great  repute ;  but  as  far  as  I  have  yet  observed,  I  have  seen 
no  kind  more  likely  to  answer  for  making  good  wine  in  America  than 


MARCH]  THE  VINEYARD.  255 

the  Constantta,  or  Cape  of  Good  Hope  grape,*  and  with  either  of 
these  the  claret  grape,  to  heighten  and  enliven  the  color,  when  red 
wine  is  intended  to  be  made. 

But  as  this  business  is  yet  in  its  infancy  here,  and  as  the  differ- 
ence of  soil  and  climate  is  well  known  to  make  a  material  change  in 
the  produce  of  the  same  kind  of  grape,  experiments  must  be  made 
on  the  various  sorts,  in  order  to  ascertain  which  may  best  answer  the 
purpose.f 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  the  different  methods  of  propagating  the 
vine,  and  then  to  its  planting. 


PROPAGATION  IN  GENERAL. 

The  vine  admits  of  being  propagated  in  various  ways :  first,  by  seeds ; 
secondly,  by  layers;  thirdly,  by  cuttings;  and  fourthly,  by  "eyes," 
or  buds.  This  tree  can  also  be  propagated  by  grafting,  inoculation, 
and  inarching. 

Propagation  by  seed  is  undoubtedly  the  way  to  raise  new  kinds, 
but  is  seldom  practised,  on  account  of  the  length  of  time  and  hazard 
of  obtaining  better,  or  even  as  good  kinds,  as  the  original  grapes 
from  whence  the  seeds  were  taken ;  but  this  should  never  deter,  for 
superior  kinds  may  be  obtained,  and  a  seedling  vine,  judiciously 
managed,  will  produce  fruit  in  about  seven  years,  or  perhaps  sooner. 

PROPAGATION  BY  SEED. 

When  you  raise  vines  from  seed,  always  be  sure  to  do  it  from  the 
very  best  kinds.  The  grapes  for  seed  should  be  permitted  to  remain 
on  the  plant  until  they  are  perfectly  ripe.  As  soon  as  the  seed  is 
taken  from  the  pulp,  it  should  be  laid  in  some  airy,  but  shady  place, 
to  dry,  and  then  carefully  preserved  in  sand  till  spring.  If,  however, 
the  seeds  were  immediately  sown  in  pots,  and  preserved  in  a  hot- 
house, green-house,  or  under  the  protection  of  glasses,  till  spring, 
they  would  then  more  freely  vegetate.  Or,  sow  the  seed  in  February 
or  March,  and  plunge  the  pots  into  a  temperate  hot-bed ;  when  the 
plants  appear,  they  will  require,  from  time  to  time,  gentle  sprinklings 
of  water,  and  protection  from  frost  and  cold.  When  so  far  advanced 
as  to  have  three  or  four  joints  each,  they  must  be  carefully  staked 
out,  and  planted  each  in  a  separate  pot. 

The  greatest  care  will  be  required  in  the  performance  of  the  above 
operation,  as  it  will  be  beneficial  to  preserve  as  much  of  the  earth  to 
the  roots  as  possible;  then  plunge  the  pots  into  a  gentle  hot- bed; 
give  the  plants  a  little  water  and  occasional  shade  from  a  strong  sun 
till  they  have  taken  root ;  after  which  give  them  plenty  of  air  occa- 
sionally, so  as  to  inure  them  to  the  open  weather,  and  have  them  fit 

*  This  grape  was  imported  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  some  years  ago, 
"by  Mr.  LEGAUX,  of  Spring  Mill,  Pennsylvania,  before  mentioned,  who  for 
several  years  past  has  made  wine  from  it,  of  a  most  excellent  quality,  and 
also  from  the  Munier. 

\  The  Catawba  is  at  present  the  best  wine  grape  of  America. 


256  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH 

to  turn  out  of  the  pots  in  July,  with  the  balls  of  earth,  wherever 
they  are  intended  to  remain ;  and  from  thenceforward  they  may  be 
treated  exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  hereafter  for 
plants  raised  from  cuttings,  only  that  they  will  require  some  slight 
protection  from  the  frosts  of  the  ensuing  winter. 

PROPAGATION   BY  LAYERS. 

"When  the  vine  is  intended  to  be  propagated  by  layers,  the  best 
shoots  of  the  preceding  season  that  can  be  most  conveniently  brought 
to  the  earth,  are  to  be  chosen  for  that  purpose.  After  making  the 
ground  light  and  fine  with  the  spade,  each  shoot  must  be  fastened 
with  a  hooked  stick  about  five  or  six  inches  below  the  surface,  with 
the  tops  somewhat  erect,  and  cut  so  as  to  leave  but  two  buds  above 
ground;  this  work  may  be  done  at  any  time  when  the  weather  per- 
mits, from  the  middle  or  beginning  of  October  till  the  end  of  March, 
or  rather  until  and  at  the  time  of  spring  pruning;  for,  if  done  much 
later,  the  top  of  the  layer  where  cut,  and  even  the  parts  bent  in  the 
operation,  would  bleed,  which  would  injure  it  considerably.  Some 
give  them  a  slit  where  inserted  into  the  earth,  but  they  will  root 
freely  with  or  without  such. 

During  summer,  if  the  weather  proves  dry,  a  little  water  occasion- 
ally would  be  of  use  to  them,  just  as  much  as  will  keep  the  ground 
'in  a  moist  state.  The  autumn,  or  spring  following,  the  layers  may 
be  taken  off  from  the  mother  plants,  their  tops  pruned,  the  extreme 
ends  of  the  stems  beyond  the  young  roots  cut  off  close  to  them,  and 
so  planted  where  they  are  to  remain;  but  I  would  prefer  doing  this 
early  in  March. 

This  is  a  very  useful  and  necessary  operation  when  any  of  your 
plants  in  the  vineyard  are  bad  kinds,  or  in  an  indifferent  state  of 
health,  for  you  can  extend  the  end  of  a  long  shoot  from  a  neighbor- 
ing plant  to  where  the  bad  plant  was,  or  stands,  entering  it  into  the 
earth  as  before  where  you  wish  it  to  grow,  and  the  next  season  you 
will  have  a  fine  vigorous  plant ;  observing  then  to  detach  it  from  the 
mother  vine  by  cutting  off  the  connection  close  to  its  new  established 
roots ;  or  you  may  lay  it  all  the  way  in  the  earth  from  the  mother 
plant  to  where  you  desire  its  top  to  grow,  and  in  a  year  disconnect 
them  near  to  the  old  plant ;  this  will  be  the  better  way,  provided 
you  lay  it  in  deeper  than  the  ordinary  culture  to  secure  it  from  being 
disturbed  thereby.  This  the  French  call  Provigner  la  vigne. 

PROPAGATION   BY   CUTTINGS. 

The  method  of  propagating  the  vine  by  cuttings  is  in  more  gene- 
ral practice  than  by  that  of  layers,  and  very  justly;  for  plants  raised 
in  the  latter  way  are  found  to  be  much  inferior  to  those  raised  by 
cuttings,  both  in  point  of  vigor  and  durability. 

The  particulars  necessary  to  form  a  good  cutting  are  principally 
these :  1st.  The  eye  or  bud  should  be  large  and  prominent.  2d.  The 
shoots  moderately  strong,  round,  and  short  jointed.  3d.  The  texture 


MARCH]  THE  VINEYARD.  251  > 

of  the  wood  should  be  close,  solid,  and  compact;  but  the  best  crite- 
rion of  its  maturity  is  its  solidity,  and  having  very  little  pith ;  it  is 
absurd  to  expect  good  success  or  prosperous  plants  from  wood  im- 
perfectly ripened. 

Unskilful  persons  frequently  choose  remarkably  strong  shoots  for 
cuttings ;  the  extraordinary  size  is  one  of  the  least  necessary  requi- 
sites; indeed,  exceeding  strong  shoots  generally  abound  too  much 
with  pith,  and  are  too  long  jointed  to  claim  a  preference. 

In  the  proper  pruning  season,  which,  in  the  middle  States,  I  con- 
ceive to  be  the  latter  end  of  February,  or  first  week  in  March,  much 
earlier  in  the  southern  States,  and  very  little  later  in  the  eastern — 
take  your  cuttings  from  the  old  vines,  near  to  where  they  were  pro- 
duced; cut  off  the  lower  end  of  each  in  a  sloping  manner,  half  an 
inch  below  a  bud,  and  the  upper  end,  in  like  manner,  an  inch  above 
one,  having  the  slope  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bud,  and  leaving 
the  cutting  from  twelve  to  sixteen  inches  long ;  but  twelve  is  suffi- 
cient, if  short-jointed,  and  furnished  with  at  least  four  or  five  good 
buds. 

There  can  be  but  one  prime  cutting  obtained  from  each  shoot, 
though  many  persons  cut  these  into  several  lengths,  and  plant  them 
all,  which  should  not  be  done  except  in  cases  of  necessity,  for  the 
upper  parts  are  never  so  well  ripened  as  the  lower,  on  account  of 
these  being  produced  at  an  earlier  period,  and  having  the  advantage 
of  the  whole  season  to  perfect  their  maturity.  The  upper  parts 
being  soft  and  spongy,  admit  the  moisture  too  freely,  which  often 
prevents  their  growth,  and  even  should  they  succeed  they  will  not 
produce  fruit  so  soon,  nor  will  they  bear  so  abundantly  for  many 
years  as  those  whose  wood  is  close,  compact,  and  already  organized 
for  fructification. 

Some  people  recommend  taking  off  the  cuttings  with  an  inch  or 
two  of  the  two  years'  old  wood  annexed,  but  this  is  unnecessary, 
and  even  injurious,  unless  the  species  of  plant  which  you  are  pro- 
pagating is  extremely  pithy  and  spongy,  like  the  fig ;  for  the  nearer 
we  approach  to  nature's  method  by  having  as  little  old  wood  as  pos- 
sible about  the  root  of  a  young  plant,  the  better. 

When  the  cuttings  are  thus  prepared  they  should  be  laid  in  trenches 
close  to  each  other,  in  some  dry  part  of  the  vineyard,  and  covered 
with  earth  to  within  two  inches  of  their  tops,  where  they  are  to  re- 
main till  you  are  ready  to  plant  them ;  covering  them  in  frosty  or 
parching  weather  with  some  loose  dry  litter,  which  is  to  be  taken  off 
every  mild  day,  that  they  may  the  more  effectually  be  inured  to  the 
open  air.  This  is  the  best  method  of  preserving  them,  even  during 
the  entire  winter.  I  do  not  approve  of  keeping  cuttings  for  any 
length  of  time  in  close,  dark,  un ventilated  cellars ;  for  in  such  places 
they  become  weak,  blanched,  tender  and  sickly,  and  seldom  succeed 
well  when  planted  out;  besides,  they  have  nothing  to  imbibe  whilst 
there  but  foul  air,  which  vitiates  their  juices,  and  brings  on  diseases 
and  bad  health. 

IT 


258 


THE  VINEYARD. 


[MARCH 


GRAFTING  GRAPE-VINES. 
From  the  Horticulturist. 

Having  had  some  experience  in  grafting  the  vine,  I  am  desirous 
of  informing  your  readers  of  my  mode  of 

Fig.  24.  Fig.  25.  Fig  26.  procedure.  I  have  visited  several  vineries 
in  this  State,  and  having  had  conversation 
with  the  proprietors,  I  have  learnjd  from 
them  how  very  important  it  would  be  to 
grape-growers  to  be  able  to  change  one 
variety  for  another  by  an  easy  and  sure 
way  of  grafting. 

My  practice  is  as  follows:  I  try  to  have 
the  eyes  of  my  stock  and  scion  swell  at 
the  same  time.  This  I  do  by  putting  my 
scions  in  wet  sand,  and  leaving  them  in 
the  vinery.  As  soon  as  the  eyes  move,  I 
take  a  sharp  knife  and  cut  my  scions  wedge- 
shaped,  leaving  only  one  eye.  I  next  take 
my  knife,  holding  the  point  down,  making 
an  incision  in  the  stock  as  at  2,  2,  Fig. 
24;  the  scion  is  cut  as  at  8.  I  then  fit  my 
scion  into  the  stock,  as  at  Fig.  25,  being 
careful  to  have  the  bark  of  both  in  close 
contact.  I  next  tie  with  strong  bass  mats, 
and  cover  all  over  with  grafting  wax,  as  at 
Fig.  26,  to  prevent  air  and  moisture  get- 
ting to  the  incision. 

This  mode  of  grafting  has  the  advantage 
of  having  the  stock  bearing  fruit  while  the 

scion  is  making  bearing  wood.  I  have  worked  two  vines  this  season, 
in  the  forcing-house  of  Mr.  Joseph  Breck  &  Son,  and  they  are  begin- 
ning to  grow. — Bonnard  Denis,  Brighton,  Mass. 


METHOD  OF  PLANTING. 

Having  your  ground  prepared  and  marked  out  with  stakes,  as 
before  directed,  and  your  cuttings  in  readiness,  so  soon  after  the 
middle  of  this  month  as  you  find  the  soil  dry  and  in  good  order,  pro- 
ceed to  planting,  in  the  following  manner :  Take  up  a  number  of  your 
cuttings  carefully,  without  injuring  the  buds,  and  place  them  in  a 
bucket  of  dung  water  about  six  inches  deep,  the  bucket  having  a 
handle  for  the  convenience  of  carrying  it  from  place  to  place ;  then, 
at  each  stake,  make  a  hole  with  a  spade,  about  a  foot  deep,  and  as 
wide  as  you  please,  but  it  will  be  better  to  have  all  these  holes  made 
the  day  before  you  commence  planting ;  into  each  put  one  strong  cut- 
ting, placing  it  a  little  sloping,  and  so  deep  that  the  second  bud  from 
the  top  may  be  just  on  a  level  with  the  general  surface;  immedi- 
ately fill  the  hole  with  earth,  pressing  it  gently  with  your  feet  to  the 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  259 

cutting,  and  drawing  the  loose  earth  around  so  as  to  cover  the  second 
bud,  before  noticed,  half  an  inch  deep,  which  bud,  so  protected,  will 
frequently  make  the  most  vigorous  shoot,  and  often  succeed  when  the 
top  bud,  exposed  to  the  weather,  will  not;  then  drive  down  the  stake, 
so  as  to  make  it.  firm,  within  three  inches  of  the  plant. 

If  your  cuttings  are  not  extremely  good  and  fresh,  and  such  as 
may  be  depended  on,  it  will  be  the  more  certain  way  to  plant  two  in 
each  hole,  the  tops  within  a  few  inches  of  each  other,  and  the  lower 
ends  sloping  in  opposite  directions  for  the  greater  convenience,  if 
both  should  succeed,  of  removing  one  without  disturbing  the  other ; 
these  extra  plants  may  be  made  use  of  next  season  to  fill  up  vacan- 
cies, or  to  form  a  new  plantation. 

Cuttings  are  generally  preferred  for  this  purpose  to  rooted  plants, 
as  they  are  thought  to  establish  themselves  more  effectually  when  not 
removed;  however,  when  such  are  to  be  planted,  keep  their  roots  out 
of  ground  but  as  short  a  time  as  possible;  and  if  immersed  when 
taken  up  in  a  pap  of  earth  and  water,  or  dung  and  water,  the  better : 
plant  them  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  cuttings,  pruning 
their  heads,  and  observing  to  place  their  roots,  after  first  shortening 
any  long  stragglers,  in  a  spreading  manner  in  the  earth,  and  then 
cover  them  up  as  before. 

It  is  necessary  that  each  particular  kind  of  grape  should  be  planted 
in  separate  quarters,  that  they  may  all  be  gathered  when  ripe  without 
injuring  others;  for,  when  planted  in  a  mixed,  confused  way,  the 
going  through  the  different  quarters  to  pull  the  fruit  of  a  vine  here 
and  there  is  very  inconvenient,  and  often  the  later  ripening  inter- 
vening kinds  are  injured  thereby. 

If  your  ground  is  intended  to  be  cultivated,  after  planting,  with 
the  plough,  you  must  leave  sufficient  head  lands  for  the  horses  to 
turn  in. 

In  the  course  of  this  month,  as  soon  after  pruning  as  the  ground 
is  dry  and  in  good  condition  for  tillage,  plough  and  harrow  between 
the  rows  of  your  former  plantations  of  vines,  previously  giving  such 
quarters  as  need  it  a  dressing  of  well  rotted  manure;  and  dig,  or  give 
a  deep  hoeing  to  such  places  as  cannot  be  come  at  with  the  plough. 


THE    NURSERY. 

GRAFTING. 

It  is  too  difficult  a  task  to  state  the  precise  time  of  grafting  the 
various  kinds  of  fruit  and  other  trees,  in  the  different  climates  and 
States  of  the  Union ;  but  as  I  cannot  do  this  with  precision,  and 
must  confine  myself,  in  this  article,  to  the  periods  most  suitable  for 
performing  that  operation  in  the  Middle  States,  where  I  am  best 
acquainted  with  the  seasons,  I  will  give  such  hints  as  will  lead  to  a 
perfect  knowledge  of  the  true  periods  for  grafting  in  every  country 
and  every  place. 


260  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

The  best  time  for  grafting,  in  the  Middle  States,  is  generally  from 
the  twentieth  of  March  to  the  tenth  of  April,  a  few  days  earlier  or 
later,  as  vegetation  may  happen  to  be  in  an  advanced  or  retarded 
state,  which  sometimes  makes  a  difference  of  ten  or  twelve  days. 

Grafting  is  always  most  successful  when  done  at  the  period  that 
the  buds  of  your  stocks  are  swelled,  so  as  to  be  nearly  ready  to  burst 
into  leaf;  this  is  the  time  in  which  the  greatest  success  may  be  ex- 
pected, and  should  be  very  particularly  attended  to;  however,  if  done 
a  few  days  before,  or  even  when  the  stocks  display  several  expanded 
leaves,  there  may  be  a  tolerably  good  hit,  provided  the  operation  is 
judiciously  performed. 

Your  scions  or  grafts  must  be  taken  off  about  a  month  or  three 
weeks  before  this  crisis,  or  so  soon  as  you  are  able  to  perceive  the 
least  disposition  in  their  buds  to  swell ;  for,  if  not  cut  off  in  proper 
time,  the  grafts  will  not  take  kindly,  nor  will  they  shoot  so  vigor- 
ously. 

The  proper  sorts  to  begin  with,  in  respect  to  fruit-trees,  are  cher- 
ries and  plums,  and,  if  you  please,  peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots ; 
but  the  latter  kinds  are  generally  propagated  by  budding  or  inocula- 
tion. Pears,  filberts,  and  apples  may  be  grafted  at  the  same  time; 
but  the  latter  may  be  deferred  for  ten  days  longer  than  either  of  the 
former,  provided  the  scions  were  taken  off  in  due  time ;  pears  will 
also  agree  with  tolerably  late  grafting. 

Before  I  proceed  to  the  methods  of  grafting,  it  will  first  be  neces- 
sary to  mention  what  stocks  are  proper  to  graft  the  different  kinds  of 
fruit  upon  ;  for  instance,  apples  should  be  grafted  upon  stocks  raised 
from  the  kernels  of  the  same  kind  of  fruit ;  that  is,  any  kind  of  ap- 
ples ;  for  the  grafts  or  buds  of  these  trees  will  not  take  well  upon 
any  other  stocks. 

It  should  be  observed  that  for  dwarf  apple-trees  for  walls  oV  espa- 
liers, or  for  small  standards,  they  should  generally  be  grafted  upon 
codlin  apple  stocks,  raised  either  from  suckers  from  the  root,  or  by 
cuttings  or  layers ;  for  the  stocks  raised  from  these  are  never  so  lux- 
uriant in  growth  as  those  of  the  larger  growing  apple-trees ;  and 
consequently  trees  grafted  upon  such  stocks  will  be  slower  in  growth, 
and  can  more  easily  be  kept  within  due  compass,  and  will  answer  the 
purpose  for  dwarfs  or  espaliers,  &c.,  much  better  than  those  grafted 
on  larger  growing  kinds.  Or,  if  required  to  have  them  of  still  more 
dwarfish  growth  for  small  gardens,  you  may  use  stocks  of  the  Dutch 
paradise  apple  and  Siberian  crab,  &c. 

But  for  the  general  supply  of  apple  stocks  for  common  standards 
and  large  espalier- trees,  they  are  raised  principally  from  the  seed  of 
any  sort  of  apples  or  wild  crabs. 

Pears  are  generally  grafted  or  budded  upon  stocks  raised  also  from 
kernels  of  any  of  their  own  kinds  of  fruits,  or  occasionally  upon 
stocks  raised  from  suckers ;  they  likewise  are  very  commonly  grafted 
upon  quince  stocks,  whereby  to  have  trees  of  more  moderate  growths, 
to  form  dwarfs ;  and  which  are  generally  raised  by  seed,  cuttings, 
layers,  or  suckers ;  and  the  pears  grafted  or  budded  upon  these  stocks 
are  very  proper  for  walls  or  espaliers,  and  occasionally  for  small 
standards.  Sometimes  also  pears  are  grafted  upon  white  thorn 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  261 

stocks ;  but  this  is  improper  for  any  general  practice,  not  being  so 
successful,  and  never  producing  so  good  fruit,  as  if  grafted  on  stocks 
of  their  own  family. 

Cherries  are  propagated  by  grafting  or  budding  them  upon  stocks 
raised  from  the  stones  of  the  common  black  or  red  cherry,  or  upon 
stocks  raised  from  the  stones  of  any  other  kind  of  the  same  fruit ; 
but  the  first  two  are  most  esteemed  for  that  purpose,  because  they 
generally  shoot  much  freer  than  any  other. 

Plums  are  grafted  or  budded  on  stocks  raised  by  sowing  the  seeds 
of  any  or  either  of  the  plum  kinds ;  but  those  raised  from  the  vigor- 
ous growing  sorts  are  most  preferable ;  they  are  also  grafted  on  stocks 
raised  from  suckers,  but  such  should  not  be  used  unless  when  seed- 
ling stocks  cannot  be  had.  Plums  will  likewise  take  on  the  apricot, 
but  then  the  trees  are  not  permanent. 

The  apricot  proves  the  most  durable  on  stocks  of  the  plum  kind. 
It  will  also  grow  on  its  own,  and  on  peach  and  almond  stocks }  but 
on  either  of  the  last  two  it  will  not  be  durable. 

For  peaches  and  nectarines,  several  sorts  of  stocks  are  occasionally 
used ;  such  as  plum,  peach,  almond,  and  apricot  stocks,  all  raised 
from  the  stones  of  the  fruit,  and  the  first  kind  from  layers  and  suck- 
ers also.  If  a  plum  could  be  procured  of  such  vigorous  growth  as 
to  keep  pace  with  the  peach,  it  would  be  an  acquisition  of  infinite 
importance;  for  on  such,  the  peach  would  be  as  permanent  as  the 
plum  itself.  In  Europe,  all  their  peach-trees  are  worked  on  the 
plum ;  but  with  us,  the  growth  of  the  peach  is  so  rapid  as  in  a  few 
years  to  overgrow  the  stock,  when  wrought  on  any  of  the  kinds  of 
plum  which  we  have  yet  procured.  The  kind  particularly  selected 
for  this  purpose  in  Europe  is  the  muscle  plum. 

Almonds  will  take  and  grow  on  any  stock  which  answers  for  the 
peach. 

Medlars  will  grow  on  either  medlar,  white-thorn,  pear,  or  quince 
stocks ;  but  those  of  its  own  genera  are  preferable. 

Filberts  will  succeed  by  budding  or  grafting  on  the  common  hazel- 
nut  tree,  raised  either  from  the  nuts  or  by  suckers  from  the  roots. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  towards  this  work  is  to  select  the  grafts, 
in  the  choice  of  which,  the  following  directions  should  be  observed. 
1st.  That  they  are  shoots  of  the  former  year ;  for,  when  they  are 
older,  they  never  succeed  well.  2d.  Always  to  take  them  from 
healthy  fruitful  trees  ;  for,  if  the  trees  from  which  they  are  taken  be 
sickly,  the  grafts  very  often  partake  so  much  of  the  distemper,  as 
rarely  to  get  the  better  of  it,  at  least  for  some  years ;  and  when  they 
are  taken  from  young  luxuriant  trees  whose  vessels  are  generally 
large,  they  will  continue  to  produce  strong  shoots,  but  will  be  a  long 
time  coming  into  bearing,  and  are  seldom  so  productive,  as  those 
which  are  taken  from  fruitful  trees  whose  shoots  are  more  compact, 
joints  closer  together,  and  whose  system  is  already  organized  for 
bearing.  3d.  You  should  prefer  those  grafts  which  are  taken  from 
the  lateral  or  horizontal  branches,  to  those  from  the  strong  perpen- 
dicular shoots,  for  the  reasons  before  given. 

When  your  grafts  are  cut  off,  open  shallow  trenches  in  a  dry  shel- 
tered situation,  and  place  them  thinly  therein,  with  their  cut  ends 


262  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

down,  drawing  up  the  earth  so  that  they  may  be  covered  two- 
thirds  of  their  length ;  then  lay  some  light  litter  thinly  over  their 
tops  to  prevent  their  drying.  If  a  small  joint  of  the  last  year's  wood 
be  taken  off  with  the  scion,  it  will  preserve  it  the  better ;  for  the  old 
wood  being  more  compact  than  the  new,  will  prevent  its  imbibing 
too  much  moisture  from  the  earth  whilst  kept  there,  and  that  can  be 
cut  away  when  you  take  them  up  for  grafting.  If  grafts  are  to  be 
carried  to  any  considerable  distance,  it  will  be  proper  to  pack  them 
up  in  earth,  and  surround  them  with  damp  moss,  if  but  a  small  quan- 
tity, to  prevent  its  drying  too  soon. 

Always  prefer  stocks  which  were  raised  in  the  nursery  from  seed ; 
next  to  these,  those  raised  from  layers  and  cuttings ;  and,  last  of  all, 
such  as  were  produced  from  suckers ;  for  the  last  will  continue  to 
throw  up  suckers  from  their  roots,  much  more  abundantly  than  any 
of  the  former,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  borders,  garden,  or  or- 
chard, which  are  not  only  unsightly,  but  they  also  take  off  a  great 
part  of  the  nourishment  from  the  trees. 

When  you  intend  to  change  the  fruit  of  an  old  espalier  or  wall- 
tree,  always  graft  on  fresh  healthy  branches,  and  as  near  the  trunk 
as  such  are  to  be  found ;  ten  or  a  dozen  grafts  may  be  necessary  to 
furnish  the  tree,  the  more  immediately,  with  the  kind  or  kinds  de- 
sired. For  a  standard,  six  or  eight  scions  will  be  sufficient  to  answer 
a  similar  purpose,  always  observing  to  cut  out  the  far  greater  part,  if 
not  the  whole,  of  the  old  branches,  previous  to  grafting,  and  the  re- 
mainder, as  the  young  grafts  advance  in  growth. 

For  this  purpose,  you  must  be  provided,  1.  With  a  strong  knife 
to  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  stocks  previous  to  the  insertion  of  the 
grafts.  2.  With  a  neat,  small  hand- saw,  for  occasional  use,  in  cut- 
ting off  the  heads  of  some  large  stocks,  for  crown-grafting.  3.  With 
a  grafting-chisel  and  small  mallet,  for  clefting  large  stocks,  for  the 
reception  of  the  scions  in  cleft-grafting.  4.  With  a  neat  and  very 
sharp  pruning-knife  for  cutting  and  shaping  the  grafts,  and  for 
sloping  and  forming  the  stocks  for  their  reception ;  and  5.  With  a 
quantity  of  new  bass  strings ;  or,  if  bass  cannot  be  had,  with  soft 
woollen  yarn,  to  tie  the  parts  close,  secure  the  grafts,  and  thereby  to 
promote  their  speedy  union  with  the  stocks. 

The  next  thing  to  be  provided,  is  a  quantity  of  grafting  clay, 
which  should  be  prepared  at  least  ten  days  previous  to  its  being 
wanted  for  use ;  to  be  applied  closely  around  the  grafts  at  the  places 
of  insertion  into  the  stocks,  and  a  little  above,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  air  from  exhausting  the  sap  of  the  scions,  before  they  could  be 
supplied  with  a  sufficiency  from  the  stocks,  and  also  to  keep  out  wet, 
which  would  greatly  obstruct  the  uniting  of  the  parts ;  it  is  to  be 
made  in  the  following  manner : — 

Get  a  quantity  of  strong,  fat  loam,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
trees  to  be  grafted;  then  take  about  a  fourth  part  of  fresh  horse-dung, 
free  from  litter,  or  a  third  part  of  cow-dung,  it  matters  not  which 
you  make  use  of;  or,  if  you  please,  you  may  use  a  proportionate 
quantity  of  each,  mixing  them,  or  either  of  them,  well  with  the  loam; 
add  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  hay,  cut  very  fine,  and  also  some  salt, 
which  will  prevent  it  from  cracking  or  drying  too  fast  in  hot  or 


MARCH]  .       THE  NURSERY.  263 

parching  weather;  work  the  whole  well  together,  and  add  as  much 
water  as  necessary;  after  which,  beat  and  incorporate  the  mass 
effectually,  after  the  manner  of  mortar,  and  continue  so  to  work  it 
every  other  day,  adding  a  little  water  as  it  becomes  dry,  till  the  time 
you  want  it  for  use.  Be  very  particular,  during  this  period,  not  to 
expose  it  to  frost  or  drying  winds ;  and  the  more  effectually  you  in- 
corporate it,  the  better  will  it  answer  your  purpose.  Some  people 
use  a  composition  of  bees-wax,  rosin,  and  turpentine,  melted  together, 
to  put  round  the  grafts  in  the  manner  of  clay,  but  laid  on  warm  and 
much  thinner.  This  I  conceive  to  be  too  expensive,  and  am  certain, 
from  experience,  that  it  does  not  answer  the  end  a  whit  better,  nor 
even  so  well  as  the  former,  if  properly  made. 

Observe,  that  the  stocks  to  be  grafted,  if  intended  for  dwarf  trees, 
for  espaliers  or  walls,  must  be  headed  down  to  within  five  or  six 
inches  of  the  ground ;  but  if  for  full  standards,  they  may  be  headed 
and  grafted  at  five  or  six  feet  high,  or  in  fact  at  any  height  you 
please,  even  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  more  particularly 
apples  and  pears ;  for  you  can  afterwards  train  the  graft  on  a  single 
clean  stem,  as  high  as  you  like,  and  then  top  it,  to  cause  it  to  throw 
out  side  branches  for  forming  a  head ;  this  is  the  best  method  to  treat 
stunted  or  ill  formed  stocks,  but  is  not  necessary  for  those  that  are 
well  thriven  and  straight,  for  by  it  you  would  lose  a  year  of  their 
growth,  as  you  can  immediately  form  the  head  from  the  graft  when 
inserted  at  a  proper  height ;  for  dwarf  and  half  standards,  you  may 
head  and  graft  at  the  height  of  two,  three,  or  four  feet. 

There  are  various  methods  of  grafting  in  practice ;  such  as  whip- 
grafting,  cleft-grafting,  crown-grafting,  side-grafting,  root-grafting, 
and  grafting  by  approach  or  inarching;  but  the  two  former  are  in 
more  general  use  among  experienced  gardeners,  particularly  the  first, 
as  being  every  way  preferable  to  any  other,  when  the  stocks  are 
under  an  inch  in  diameter. 

FIRST,  BY  WHIP-GRAFTING. 

This  kind  of  grafting  is  that  most  commonly  practised  in  nurseries, 
as  being  both  the  most  expeditious  and  successful,  and  may  be  per- 
formed upon  smaller  stocks  than  any  other;  for  it  is  effected  with 
the  greatest  success  upon  such  as  are  from  about  half  an  inch  or  less, 
to  near  an  inch  in  diameter;  the  method  of  performing  the  work  is 
this: 

Having  the  scions  or  grafts,  knife,  bandages,  and  clay  ready,  then 
begin  the  work  by  cutting  off  the  head  of  the  stock  at  some  clear 
smooth  part  thereof,  generally  performing  this  by  one  clean  slanting 
cut  upwards,  so  as  to  form  a  slope  on  one  side  about  an  inch  and  a 
half  or  two  inches  in  length ;  and  make  a  notch  or  small  slit  from 
near  the  upper  part  downwards,  a  little  better  than  half  an  inch  long, 
to  receive  the  tongue  of  the  scion ;  then  prepare  the  scion  by  cutting 
it  to  five  or  six  inches  in  length,  preferring  the  lower  or  thick  part, 
and  cutting  the  bottom  end  on  one  side  also,  in  a  sloping  manner, 
the  length  of,  and  to  fit  the  slope  of  the  stock,  as  if  cut  from  the 
same  place,  that  the  rinds  of  both  may  join  as  nearly  as  possible  in 


264  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

every  part,  as  if  you  were  splicing  a  fishing-rod ;  but  when  the  stock 
is  much  larger  than  the  scion,  this  cannot  be  done  so  exactly,  unless 
you  insert  it  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stock  to  the  slope ;  however, 
that  will  not  be  necessary,  provided  you  join  the  rinds  or  bark  of 
both,  so  as  to  fit  neatly  on  either  edge  or  side  of  the  slope ;  then 
make  a  slit  upwards  in  the  slope  of  the  scion,  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of 
tongue  to  fit  that  made  in  the  slope  of  the  stock,  which  insert  therein, 
so  that  the  rinds  of  both  may  join  together  exactly,  at  least  on  one 
side,  and  immediately  tie  the  parts  together  with  a  ligature  of  bass, 
&c.,  bringing  it  in  a  neat  manner  several  times  around  the  stock  and 
graft  moderately  tight,  and  fastened  accordingly. 

This  done,  clay  the  whole  over  near  an  inch  thick  on  every  side, 
from  an  inch  below  the  bottom  of  the  graft  to  the  same  above  the 
top  of  the  stock,  finishing  the  coat  of  clay  in  a  longish  oval  form, 
closing  it  effectually  in  every  part,  and  tapering  it  up  to  the  scion  to 
prevent  the  wind,  sun,  or  rain  reaching  the  grafted  parts  till  the 
union  is  effected ;  observing  to  examine  it  now  and  then ;  and  if  any 
part  falls  off,  or  cracks  appear,  such  must  be  immediately  repaired 
with  fresh  clay. 

Expert  nursery-gardeners  generally  perform  whip-grafting  with 
four  cuts;  two  in  heading  and  slitting  the  stock,  and  the  same  in 
sloping  and  turning  the  graft,  inserting  it  immediately,  being  followed 
by  one  or  two  persons  to  tie  and  clay  them. 

This  sort  of  grafting  may  also  be  performed,  if  necessary,  upon 
strong  young  shoots  of  any  bearing  tree,  if  intended  to  alter  the 
kind  of  fruit,  or  have  more  than  one  sort  on  the  same  tree. 

By  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  May,  the  grafts  will  be  well  united 
with  the  stocks,  as  will  be  evident  by  their  shooting ;  the  clay  may 
then  be  taken  off,  but  suffer  the  bandages  to  remain  on  till  the  united 
parts  seem  to  swell,  and  be  too  much  confined  thereby. 

SECOND,  BY  CLEFT-GRAFTING. 

This  is  called  cleft-grafting,  because  the  stock  being  too  large  for 
whip-grafting,  is  cleft  or  slit  down  the  middle  for  the  reception  of 
the  scion,  and  is  performed  upon  stocks  from  about  one  to  two  inches 
diameter,  and  may  be  practised  with  success  where  the  rind  of  the 
stock  is  not  too  thick,  whereby  the  inner  bark  of  the  scion  will  be 
prevented  from  closely  joining  that  of  the  stock,  which  junction  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  form  a  complete  union  of  the  parts. 

First,  with  a  strong  knife  cut  off  the  head  of  the  stock ;  or  if  the 
stock  is  very  large  it  may  be  headed  with  a  small  saw. 

This  done,  fix  upon  a  smooth  part  just  below  where  headed,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  to  that  cut  away  part  of  the  stock,  about  an  inch 
and  a  half,  in  a  sloping  manner  upwards,  so  as  the  crown  of  the  stock 
may  not  be  more  than  about  half  an  inch  broad,  which  slope  and 
crown  are  to  be  cut  smooth  and  neat.  Then  prepare  your  grafts  or 
scions  in  the  following  manner :  observe  to  cut  them  into  proper 
lengths  of  about  six  inches,  with  several  eyes  or  buds  to  each :  then 
take  your  sharpest  knife,  and  pare  away  the  bark  and  some  of  the 
wood  at  the  lower  end  of  the  graft  in  a  sloping  manner,  about  an  inch 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  265 

and  a  half  or  near  two  inches  in  length  on  opposite  sides,  making  it 
have  a  wedge-like  shape  ;  but  let  that  edge  which  is  to  be  placed  out- 
wards on  the  stock  be  left  thicker  than  the  other,  and  with  the  rind 
continued  thereon.  The  graft  being  prepared,  take  your  strong  knife 
or  chisel,  and  place  it  on  the  middle  of  the  stock,  not  across,  but 
contrarywise  to  the  sloped  part,  and  with  a  small  mallet  strike  the 
knife  or  chisel  into  the  stock,  observing  to  cleave  it  no  farther  than 
what  is  necessary  to  admit  the  graft  readily  ;  then  place  the  knife,  or 
some  small  instrument,  a  little  way  into  the  cleft,  at  the  sloped  part 
of  the  stock,  to  keep  it  open  for  the  reception  of  the  graft,  which 
directly  introduce  into  the  cleft  on  the  top  of  the  stock,  at  the  back 
of  the  slope ;  inserting  it  with  great  exactness,  as  far  as  it  is  cut, 
with  the  thickest  edge  outwards,  and  so  that  the  rind  may  meet  ex- 
actly every  way  with  that  of  the  stock.  The  graft  being  placed, 
then  remove  the  knife  or  wedge,  taking  care  not  to  displace  the  scion ; 
this  done,  let  it  be  tied  and  well  clayed  in  the  manner  directed  above, 
in  the  work  of  whip  or  tongue-grafting. 

Or,  if  you  choose  to  put  in  two  grafts,  it  may  be  performed  on 
large  stocks,  which  must  be  twice  cleft,  parallel  to  each  other,  and  so 
fix  the  scions  as  above,  in  opposite  sides. 

This  method  of  grafting  may  be  performed  occasionally  on  the  up- 
right branches  of  bearing  trees  when  intended  either  to  renew  the 
wood  or  change  the  sort  of  fruit. 

When  the  grafts  have  shot  five  or  six  inches,  take  off  the  clay  and 
bandages,  and  cover  the  wounded  parts  of  the  stocks  with  fresh  graft- 
ing clay,  which  will  protect  them  from  the  influence  of  the  weather, 
and  accelerate  the  growth  of  the  bark  over  the  wounds ;  let  this 
claying  remain  on  till  it  falls  off  of  itself :  this  second  claying  is  more 
necessary  to  large  than  to  small  stocks,  but  will  be  very  useful  to 
either. 

THIRD,  BY   CROWN-GRAFTING. 

The  third  kind  of  grafting  is  known  by  the  name  of  crown-graft- 
ing, as  sometimes  three,  four,  or  more  grafts  are  inserted  round  the 
crown  of  the  stock,  in  a  circular  order,  introduced  betwixt  the  bark 
and  the  wood. 

This  way  of  grafting  is  commonly  practised  upon  such  stocks  as 
are  too  large  and  stubborn  to  cleave,  and  is  often  performed  upon  the 
branches  of  apple  and  pear-trees,  &c.,  that  already  bear  fruit,  when 
it  is  intended  to  change  the  sorts  or  to  renew  the  tree  with  fresh  bear- 
ing wood. 

The  manner  of  doing  it  is  as  follows  : — 

First,  to  cut  off  the  head  of  the  tree  or  stock  level,  or  of  any  par- 
ticular branch  of  a  tree  which  you  intend  to  graft,  and  pare  the  top 
perfectly  smooth;  then  prepare  your  scions,  which  is  done  by  cutting 
one  side  flat  and  sloping,  about  two  inches  in  length,  making  a  kind 
of  shoulder  at  the  top  of  the  cut  to  rest  on  the  head  of  the  stock, 
and  pare  off  a  little  of  the  bark  towards  each  edge  of  the  graft ;  then 
prepare  to  insert  it,  which,  in  this  order  of  grafting,  must  be  effected 
by  introducing  the  sloped  part  down  betwixt  the  bark  and  wood  of 


THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

the  stock ;  first  slitting  the  bark  or  rind  from  the  top  downwards 
clean  through  to  the  firm  wood,  two  inches  or  two  and  a  half  in 
length ;  and  having  a  small  thin  wedge  of  iron  or  wood,  open  there- 
with the  rind  of  the  stock  a  little  at  the  top  of  the  slit,  by  intro- 
ducing it  gently  down  betwixt  the  wood  and  rind,  far  enough  to  make 
way  for  admitting  the  graft;  then  drawing  it  out,  insert  the  scion 
with  the  cut  sloped  side  towards  and  close  to  the  wood  of  the  stock, 
slipping  it  neatly  down  the  length  of  its  cut  part,  resting  the  shoulder 
thereof,  prepared  as  above,  upon  the  top  of  the  stock,  and  in  this 
manner  you  may  put  four,  five,  or  more  grafts,  as  may  seem  conve- 
nient, into  each  stock,  and  bind  them  round  with  strong  bass. 

When  the  grafts  are  all  thus  fixed,  you  must  immediately  apply  a 
good  quantity  of  well-wrought  clay,  bringing  it  close  about  the  stock 
and  grafts,  observing  to  raise  it  at  least  an  inch  above  the  top  of  the 
stock  in  a  rounding  manner,  so  as  to  throw  the  wet  quickly  off,  and 
prevent  its  lodging  or  getting  into  the  work,  which  would  ruin  all. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  sometimes  called  shoulder-grafting,  and 
grafting  in  the  rind,  and  was  much  more  in  practice  formerly  than 
at  present ;  for,  although  the  grafts  take  freely,  they  are  liable  to  be 
blown  out  by  strong  winds  after  they  have  made  large  shoots,  which 
has  frequently  happened  after  three  or  four  years'  growth,  so  that 
when  this  method  is  practised,  the  evil  must  be  remedied  by  tying 
some  firm  sticks  to  the  body  of  the  stock  or  branch  that  is  grafted, 
to  which  the  young  shoots  must  be  tied,  or  they  must  be  made  fast 
to  some  convenient  support  that  will  answer  the  same  end ;  or  even 
tying  them  to  one  another,  should  the  grafts  take  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  stock,  will  answer  a  good  purpose. 

This  kind  of  grafting  may  be  performed  a  week  or  ten  days  later 
than  the  other  methods;  for  it  will  prove  most  successful  if  done 
when  the  sap  begins  to  be  in  active  motion,  as  then  the  bark  of  the 
stock  will  separate  from  the  wood  more  freely  to  admit  the  graft. 

When  the  scions  are  well  taken,  treat  them  as  directed  under  the 
head  Cleft-grafting. 

FOURTH,  BY  SIDE-GRAFTING. 

This  is  done  by  inserting  grafts  into  the  sides  of  the  branches 
without  heading  them  down,  and  may  be  practised  upon  trees  to  fill 
up  any  vacancy,  or  for  variety,  to  have  several  sorts  of  fruit  on  the 
same  tree. 

It  is  performed  thus :  fix  upon  such  parts  of  the  branches  where 
wood  is  wanting  to  furnish  the  head  or  any  part  of  the  tree ;  there 
slope  off  the  bark  and  a  little  of  the  wood,  and  cut  the  lower  end 
of  the  graft  to  fit  the  part  as  near  as  possible;  then  join  it  to  the 
branch,  first  tongueing  both  as  in  whip-grafting,  tie  them  with  bass, 
and  clay  them  over. 

FIFTH,  BY  ROOT-GRAFTING. 

This  is  done  by  whip-grafting  scions  upon  pieces  of  root  turned  up 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  either  as  the  roots  remain  or  separated,  and 
immediately  replanted. 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  26 T 

Here  it  will  be  well  to  observe  that  grafting  is  frequently  done, 
and  very  often  with  good  success,  without  the  assistance  of  grafting- 
clay  or  any  other  prepared  composition.  The  method  is  this:  head 
down  your  stocks  near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  graft  them  as 
low  as  you  possibly  can ;  bind  them  neatly,  as  in  other  cases,  and 
draw  the  earth  over  the  crowns  of  the  stocks,  so  as  to  let  one  or  two 
of  the  buds  of  each  scion  appear ;  look  to  them  frequently,  and  if 
the  earth  sinks  so  as  to  expose  the  crowns  of  the  stocks,  cover  them 
up  again. 

When  the  scions  are  sufficiently  taken,  clear  off  the  earth,  unbind 
the  bandages,  and  then  replace  it  as  before.  Trees  grafted  in  this 
way  may  afterwards  be  trained  up,  either  for  standards,  half  stand- 
ards, espaliers  or  wall  trees,  at  pleasure. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  persons  are  under  the  necessity,  in 
spring,  of  removing  some  stocks,  when  in  the  way  of  other  business ; 
in  which  case  they  are  frequently  taken  into  the  house,  and  grafted  in 
any  method  most  convenient,  then  planted  immediately :  this  is  called 
by  gardeners  fire-side  grafting,  and  often  proves  tolerably  successful; 
but  I  would  not  recommend  it,  except  in  cases  of  necessity. 

GRAFTING  BY  APPROACH,  OR  INARCHING. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  performed  only  when  the  stock  and  the 
tree  from  which  you  mean  to  propagate,  either  grow,  or  can  be  placed 
so  near  each  other,  that  the  intended  graft  may  be  brought  to  ap- 
proach and  join  the  stock,  forming  therewith,  when  grafted,  a  kind 
of  arch,  and  not  to  be  separated  from  the  mother  plant  till  a  perfect 
union  is  formed:  hence  its  name. 

When  intended  to  propagate  any  tree  or  shrub  by  this  method, 
if  of  a  hardy  nature,  and  growing  in  the  open  ground,  the  requisite 
quantity  of  young  plants  for  stocks  should  be  planted  around  it,  and 
when  grown  of  a  proper  size  or  height,  the  work  performed :  or,  if 
the  branches  of  the  tree  designed  to  graft  from,  are  too  high  for  the 
stocks,  these  must  be  planted  in  pots  (if  a  year  previous  to  the  ope- 
ration, the  better),  and  placed  upon  a  temporary  stage  erected  around 
the  tree  of  sufficient  height  to  answer  the  purpose. 

In  performing  this  work,  make  choice  of  a  smooth  part  of  the  stock, 
and  with  which  the  intended  graft  can  be  conveniently  brought  to 
meet,  marking  on  each  the  place  of  junction ;  then  cut  away  the  bark 
and  a  part  of  the  wood,  from  two  to  three  inches  in  length,  both  of 
the  stock  and  scion ;  after  which,  make  a  slit  upwards  in  the  scion, 
so  as  to  form  a  tongue,  and  another  downwards  in  the  stock,  as  di- 
rected for  whip-grafting,  and  insert  the  one  into  the  other,  making 
all  parts  fit  in  an  exact  manner,  particularly  the  rinds  or  barks,  and 
tie  them  closely  together  with  bass ;  after  which,  cover  the  whole 
with  a  due  quantity  of  grafting  clay,  as  directed  in  the  other  methods. 
In  this  mode  of  grafting,  the  scion  is  not  separated  from  the  tree 
until  it  is  firmly  united  with  the  stock,  nor  is  the  head  of  the  latter 
generally  cut  off  till  this  time,  though  it  is  sometimes  performed  with 
the  head  of  the  stock  cut  off,  under  the  idea  that  its  whole  efforts 


268  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

would  then  be  directed  to  the  nourishment  of  the  graft,  which  is  not 
of  as  much  advantage  as  might  be  imagined. 

If  the  plants  which  you  inarch,  are  exposed  to  strong  winds,  it  will 
be  proper  to  make  them  fast,  either  to  stakes  stuck  into  the  ground 
for  that  purpose,  or  to  some  other  more  convenient  support  to  prevent 
their  being  displaced  thereby. 

The  stocks  and  grafts  are  to  remain  for  three  months,  or  upwards, 
before  you  unbind  them  ;  at  the  expiration  of  that  time,  take  off  the 
clay  and  bandages,  and  if  well  taken,  separate  the  graft  from  the 
mother  plant,  being  careful  to  do  this  with  a  perfectly  sharp  knife, 
cutting  it  off  with  a  slope  downwards  to  the  stock ;  and,  if  not  done 
in  grafting,  the  head  of  the  stock  must  also  be  cut  off  close  to  the 
graft,  and  afterwards  the  stem  kept  free  from  any  under  shoots.  If 
at  this  time  the  graft  and  stock,  particularly  if  not  extremely  well 
united,  were  tied  again  gently,  as  before,  fresh  clayed,  and  those  suf- 
fered to  remain  on  for  a  mouth  or  five  weeks,  it  would  be  of  consider- 
able advantage. 

The  walnut,  fig,  and  mulberry,  with  many  other  trees,  which  do 
not  succeed  by  the  common  methods  of  grafting,  will  take  freely  by 
this,  and  also  various  kinds  of  evergreens.  It  is  in  frequent  use  to 
ingraft  a  fruit-bearing  branch  upon  a  common  stock  of  the  same 
family,  by  which  means  you  have  a  tree  with  much  fruit  in  a  few 
months,  that  would  take  perhaps  as  many  years,  when  left  to  nature, 
before  it  would  show  a  single  one.  This  is  frequently  practised  on 
orange-trees,  and  other  green-house  plants. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  not  to  be  performed  so  early  in  the 
season  as  the  others,  it  being  most  successful  when  the  sap  is  flowing; 
in  the  Middle  States,  I  would  recommend  doing  it  towards  the  latter 
end  of  April.  But  it  is  not  to  be  practised  where  the  other  methods 
will  succeed ;  for  trees  propagated  in  this  way  are  always  observed 
to  grow  more  weakly,  and  never  to  the  size  of  those  which  are  pro- 
pagated by  budding,  or  the  other  modes  of  grafting. 

GRAFTING  PEACHES,  NECTARINES,  AND  APRICOTS. 

Peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots  will  succeed  by  grafting,  but 
propagating  them  by  inoculation  is  much  preferable  ;  however,  if  you 
graft  them,  let  it  be  done  early,  always  before  they  show  flowers, 
having  their  scions  taken  off  three  weeks  previous  to  the  time  of  per- 
forming the  operation,  and  deposited  in  the  earth  till  that  period,  as 
before  directed  for  those  of  other  fruit-trees,  in  the  choice  of  which 
you  must  be  very  particular,  so  as  to  get  the  best  ripened  young 
wood,  round,  plump,  and  short-jointed,  and  with  very  little  pith;  all 
these  will  take  as  freely  on  plump  stocks  as  on  their  own  kinds,  and 
if  intended  for  walls  and  espaliers  will  be  more  permanent,  as  they 
are  not  so  subject  to  be  destroyed  by  worms.  Grafting  may  be  also 
performed,  to  any  desirable  extent,  on  most  kinds  of  forest  and  orna- 
mental trees,  such  as  elm,  ash,  oak,  holly,  althea-frutex,  &c.  &c., 
whose  scions  are  not  soft-wooded,  nor  too  full  of  pith. 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  269 


MANAGEMENT  OF  FRUIT-TREES  GRAFTED  AND  BUDDED  LAST  YEAR. 

Those  fruit- trees  which  were  grafted  last  year  should  now  have 
their  shoots  shortened,  that  they  may  send  forth  lateral  branches  to 
form  regular  heads ;  if  they  are  intended  for  espaliers  or  wall-trees, 
observe  the  method  recommended  in  page  224  ;  if  for  standards,  the 
stems  must  be  trained  up  to  a  proper  height  and  then  topped,  or 
some  of  the  shoots  shortened,  so  as  to  produce  handsome  well  fur- 
nished heads. 

The  stocks  which  were  budded  the  last  summer,  and  in  which  the 
buds  still  remain  dormant,  should  now  have  their  heads  cut  off  a 
little  above  the  budded  parts  j  by  which  means  the  whole  nourish- 
ment will  go  to  the  inoculations,  which  will  soon  begin  to  advance 
their  first  shoots. 

In  proceeding  to  do  this,  cut  the  head  of  the  stock  off,  sloping 
behind  the  inoculated  bud,  either  almost  close  thereto  or  about  a 
hand's  breadth  above  it ;  which  part  of  the  stock,  remaining  above, 
will  serve  for  tying  thereto  the  first  shoot  from  the  bud  in  summer, 
to  secure  it  from  the  wind,  but  must  be  cut  down  close  next  spring. 

The  stumps  left  last  season,  for  a  similar  purpose,  should  now  be 
cut  off  close  to  where  the  bud  was  inserted,  cutting  them  effectually 
in  to  the  clean  fresh  wood,  in  order  that  the  wounds  may  cover  over 
and  heal,  which  will  be  effected  in  one  season,  if  no  spotted  or  un- 
sound wood  be  left. 

TRANSPLANTING  STOCKS  TO  BUD  AND  GRAFT  UPON. 

Make  new  plantations  of  stocks  to  bud  and  graft  the  different  kinds 
of  choice  fruit  upon. 

Many  of  those  raised  from  seeds,  &c.,  last  year,  will  now  be  ready 
for  this  purpose. 

Let  these  be  planted  out,  as  soon  in  the  month  as  the  weather  will 
permit,  in  rows  three  or  four  feet  asunder,  and  at  least  twelve  inches 
distant  from  one  another  in  the  row.  They  should  be  planted  by 
line,  either  dibbling  in  the  small  plants,  or  the  large  ones  trenched 
or  holed  in  with  the  spade ;  or  you  may  cut  out  small  trenches  by 
line,  placing  the  plants  therein  at  the  above  distance,  and  turn  the 
earth  in  upon  their  roots,  treading  it  gently  along. 

SOWING   STONES   TO   RAISE  STOCKS   FOR  GRAFTING. 

Where  plum,  peach,  apricot,  and  cherry-stones,  &c.  were  neglected, 
or  could  not,  in  consequence  of  the  weather,  be  sown  last  month,  let 
it  be  done  as  early  in  this  as  possible,  agreeably  to  the  rules  laid 
down  in  page  159,  which  see. 

SOWING  KERNELS  OF  APPLES,  PEARS,  AND  QUINCES  FOR  STOCKS. 

If  the  sowing  of  these  were  neglected,  or  impracticable  last  month, 
let  it  be  done  in  this  as  early  as  possible,  sowing  them  tolerably 
hick,  in  beds,  and  covering  them  with  light  dry  earth,  a  little  better 


270  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

than  half  an  inch  deep.  These  will  be  fit  to  plant  out  in  nursery 
rows  next  season ;  but  they  would  succeed  much  better  if  sown  in 
October  or  November,  if  not  carefully  preserved  in  sand  or  earth,  or 
unless  they  are,  at  the  time  of  sowing,  taken  fresh  out  of  the  fruit. 
See  page  165. 

SOWING   HAWS   FOR   RAISING   THORN- QUICKS. 

It  will  be  necr--sary  to  sow  your  haws  as  early  in  this  month  as 
possible,  if  not  done  in  the  last,  for  the  reasons  assigned  in  the  Nur- 
sery for  February,  page  160,  &c.,  where  you  will  find  ample  directions 
both  for  the  preparation  and  sowing  of  the  seed,  &c. 

You  may,  any  time  this  month,  particularly  after  the  middle,  or 
towards  the  latter  end,  take  up  your  one  or  two  year  old  seedling 
quicks,  out  of  the  beds  where  they  were  raised,  and  plant  them  into 
nursery  rows,  as  directed  at  p.  160.  Should  it  be  your  intention  to  let 
them  remain  in  those  rows  to  grow  to  a  large  size,  the  more  immedi- 
ately to  make  a  fence,  when  planted  out,  set  them  at  greater  dis- 
tances than  there  directed,  but  they  always  succeed  best  when  planted 
young. 

During  the  continuance  of  the  plants  in  those  rows,  they  must  be 
kept  free  from  weeds,  and  each  spring  and  autumn  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  dig  between  them  to  loosen  the  earth,  which  will  greatly 
strengthen  and  invigorate  their  growth. 

LIVE   HEDGES. 

Live  hedges  are  already  become  objects  of  serious  importance,  par- 
ticularly in  those  parts  of  the  Union  in  which  timber  has  got  scarce, 
and  must  inevitably  become  more  so  in  a  very  rapid  progression ; 
therefore,  the  sooner  the  citizens  turn  their  attention  to  the  cultiva- 
tion and  planting  of  them,  the  greater  portion  of  their  benefits  will 
they  themselves  enjoy,  and  the  sooner  will  they  lay  the  foundation 
of  a  rich  inheritance  for  their  children,  and  of  an  ornamental  and 
useful  establishment  for  their  country. 

Our  farmers  not  being  accustomed  to  the  making  of  live  hedges, 
may  for  some  time  be  very  tardy  in  attempting  it ;  those  of  greater 
penetration  will  not  hesitate  a  moment,  but  commence  immediately; 
others  will  look  on  for  years  to  see  the  result,  which  will  be  so  much 
time,  profit,  and  pleasure  lost  to  themselves ;  and  consequently  a  pro- 
portionate injury  done  to  their  posterity.  Some  will  try  the  experi- 
ment ;  but  in  such  a  half  way,  negligent,  slovenly  manner,  as  to  in- 
sure disappointment ;  I  would  advise  such  to  hold  fast  by  the  post  and 
rail,  and  not  to  lose  time  in  doing  more  harm  than  good. 

It  has  been  asserted  that  any  other  than  ground  hedges,  that  is, 
such  as  are  established  on  the  plain  surface  without  a  ditch,  are  un- 
necessary in  the  United  States ;  but  why  in  the  United  States  any 
more  than  in  those  countries  that  ages  of  experience  and  necessity 
have  taught  to  give  a  decided  preference  to  the  hedge  and  ditch  ? 
Such  may  succeed  in  very  good  ground,  and  with  uncommon  care ; 
but  it  is  an  incontrovertible  and  well  known  fact,  that  a  hedge  and 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  271 

ditch  will  make  a  more  formidable  fence,  in  three  years,  than  a  ground 
hedge  will  in  ten. 

Having  now  given  my  decided  and  unequivocal  opinion  as  to  which 
is  preferable,  for  outward  fences,  I  shall  proceed  to  give  the  best  in- 
structions in  my  power  for  the  formation  of  both;  the  more  especially 
as  the  ground-hedge  is  the  neatest  and  most  eligible  for  internal 
hedges  in  gardens  and  pleasure-grounds. 

The  hawthorn,  of  all  other  kinds,  is  the  most  suitable  for  outward 
fences ;  and  here  I  think  it  necessary  to  remark,  that  the  common 
European  white  thorn,  or  Cratsegus  oxyacantha  of  Linnaeus,  appears 
to  answer  well  in  America,  but  is  not  of  so  rapid  growth  as  our  cock- 
spur  thorn,  or  Cratsegus  crus  galli;  the  former  makes  a  closer  and 
thicker  hedge,  but  not  more  formidable,  nor  so  immediately  as  the 
latter.  We  have  many  varieties  of  native  hawthorns,  as  described 
on  page  164,  &c.,  either  of  which  will  answer  very  well,  and  conve- 
nience must  be  considered  in  respect  to  choice ;  but  when  choice  can 
be  made,  a  preference  should  be  given  to  the  cockspur  thorn,  or 
rather  to  that  kind  which  is  observed  to  grow  most  luxuriantly  in  the 
neighborhood  in  which  it  is  intended  to  be  planted. 

THE   HEDGE  AND  DITCH. 

The  months  of  October,  November,  and  December  will  be  the 
most  eligible  periods  in  the  southern  States  for  making  this  kind  of 
fence,  particularly  as  their  frosts  can  do  no  injury  to  the  ditch,  and 
the  roots  will  have  an  early  establishment,  and  consequently  be  the 
better  prepared  to  encounter  the  summer  heats.  In  the  middle  and 
eastern  States,  I  would  prefer  doing  this  business  in  March,  or  early 
in  April ;  as  the  ditch  in  that  case  would  have  one  year's  advantage 
of  the  frost,  which,  in  some  kinds  of  soil,  would  have  a  considerable 
effect,  particularly  in  the  first  year,  by  swelling  the  earth  in  the  face 
of  the  ditch,  causing  it  to  moulder  down,  and  thereby  expose  the 
roots  of  the  quicks ;  but  this  can  be  obviated  by  leaving  a  scarce- 
ment  in  the  front,  as  hereafter  directed. 

Strong  year  old  quicks  will  answer  very  well  for  laying  in  the  face 
of  a  ditch,  but  such  as  have  had  the  advantage  of  two  years'  growth 
in  nursery  rows,  after  being  transplanted  when  one  year  old  from  the 
seed-bed,  will  sooner  form  a  good  fence,  or  two  year  old  plants  from 
the  seed-bed  will  answer  a  very  good  purpose.  Be  particular,  in  the 
taking  of  them  up,  not  to  injure  their  roots  but  as  little  as  possible, 
and  to  sort  them  into  three  different  lots,  the  smallest,  larger,  and 
largest,  and  also  to  plant  each  lot  together ;  for  the  mixing  of  the 
small  with  the  large  is  very  injudicious,  as  the  former  in  a  little  time 
would  be  smothered  and  overgrown  by  the  latter,  and  vacancies  con- 
sequently formed  in  the  hedge. 

Previous  to  planting,  prune  off  the  extremities  of  any  long  strag- 
gling and  wounded  roots,  and  also  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  plants 
about  seven  inches  above  the  earth-mark  where  they  stood  in  the 
ground,  and  likewise  any  side  branches  that  remain;  let  no  conside- 
ration prevent  your  doing  this,  for  on  it  depends  much  of  your  suc- 
cess. 


272  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

Having  your  plants  in  readiness  and  dressed  in  this  manner,  lay 
them  by  the  heels  in  the  earth,  to  be  taken  up  as  wanted,  lest  their 
roots  should  become  dry  and  be  injured  thereby.  Then  proceed  to 
form  your  ditch,  which  should  be  four  feet  wide  at  least  at  top,  nar- 
rowing with  a  gentle  slope  on  each  side  towards  the  bottom,  to  the 
perpendicular  depth  of  two  feet  and  a  half,  where  it  should  be  one 
foot  wide.  The  more  your  ground  is  subject  to  slip  by  heavy  rains, 
the  greater  slope  must  be  given  to  the  bank  side. 

Begin  by  cutting  the  surface  sod  of  the  ditch  into  squares  of  con- 
venient size,  and  about  three  inches  deep,  having  previously  lined 
out  and  cut  both  sides  with  a  spade,  sloping  inwards  as  above  inti- 
mated, and  lay  a  row  of  them  with  the  grassy  surface  under,  six 
inches  inward  from  the  edge  on  the  bank  side ;  lay  on  top  of  this 
row  of  sods,  two  inches  of  the  loose  and  mellow  earth,  that  is,  the 
best  the  ditch  affords,  and  also  a  quantity  of  it  behind  them,  for 
about  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet,  breaking  it  very  fine  with  the 
spade ;  on  this  lay  your  quicks  nearly  in  a  horizontal  manner,  their 
tops  being  a  little  elevated,  and  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  one 
from  the  other,  and  so  far  in  that  three  or  four  inches  of  their  tops 
may  remain  uncovered  when  the  ditch  is  finished.  Spread  the  roots 
to  advantage,  and  cover  them  well  with  the  mouldy  earth  that  drop- 
ped from  the  surface  sod ;  this  is  necessary,  in  order  to  give  their 
roots  the  advantage  of  the  best  soil,  and  should  on  no  account  be 
neglected.  Then  proceed  to  finish  your  ditch  and  bank,  laying  the 
remainder  of  the  surface  sods  in  front  of  the  bank,  as  you  had  done 
with  the  first  row,  giving  it  exactly  a  similar  slope  to  that  of  the 
ditch,  and  the  whole  bank  such  a  form  as  if  it  was  taken  up  at  once 
out  of  the  ditch  and  turned  upside  down.  The  scarcement  left  in 
front  throws  the  bank  so  far  back  as  not  to  bear  heavily  on  the  side 
of  the  ditch  to  crush  it  down,  and  it  also  will  receive  and  retain  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  rain  that  slides  down  along  the  face  of 
the  bank,  by  which  means  the  earth  in  front  will  be  kept  in  a  more 
moist  state  than  if  no  such  thing  was  left. 

Were  you  to  lay  in  two  rows  of  quicks  in  the  front,  the  second 
eight  or  nine  inches  above  the  first,  and  the  plants  in  each  row  nine 
or  ten  distant,  placing  those  of  the  upper  opposite  the  intervals  of 
the  lower,  it  would  be  the  most  effectual  method  of  making  a  better 
and  more  immediate  fence.  A  very  slight  paling,  on  top  of  the 
bank,  that  will  defend  the  quicks  for  three  years,  will  be  sufficient; 
and  if  the  land  in  front  is  not  in  cultivation,  but  under  stock,  a  simi- 
lar fence  may  be  necessary  to  prevent  their  going  into  the  ditch,  and 
reaching  the  plants ;  but  if  you  take  particular  care  to  keep  them 
constantly  wed,  for  the  first  two  years,  which  is  absolutely  necessary 
or  all  is  lost  labor,  they  will  have  the  less  inducement  to  approach 
them. 

There  are  many  other  methods  of  making  hedge  and  ditch  fences ; 
but  having  found,  from  ample  experience,  the  above  to  be  most  suc- 
cessful, I  shall  confine  myself  exclusively  to  it,  lest  too  much  specu- 
lation might  lead  people  astray,  and  retard  the  progress  of  this  im- 
portant business. 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  273 


GROUND-HEDGES. 

The  best  method  of  planting  a  hedge  on  a  level,  or  without  a  ditch, 
is  to  plough  a  slip  of  ground  on  each  side  of  the  intended  line  of 
fence  the  preceding  spring,  and  having  previously  dunged  it,  to  plant 
it  with  potatoes,  taking  the  ordinary  care  to  keep  it  free  from  weeds 
during  the  period  of  their  growth.  In  autumn,  the  potatoes  being 
removed,  the  entire  slip  should  be  ploughed  deep,  gathering  it  up 
towards  the  centre,  and  in  October  or  March,  having  your  quicks 
previously  raised  in  the  nursery,  as  directed  in  that  department  in 
February,  to  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet,  take  up  the  plants  care- 
fully without  injuring  their  roots,  prune  off  the  extremities  of  the 
roots  and  any  long  straggling  shoots  of  their  tops,  then  plant  them 
in  a  trench  made  along  the  centre  of  this  slip  of  ground  for  their  re- 
ception, at  the  distance  of  from  six  to  eight  inches  from  plant  to 
plant,  and  settle  the  earth  well  into  their  roots ;  observing,  previously 
to  planting,  to  match  the  quicks;  that  is,  to  plant  all  the  larger 
sized  together,  for  it  is  improper,  as  before  observed,  to  intermix  the 
small  and  large,  as  the  former  would  be  smothered  by  the  latter, 
which  would  occasion  injurious  and  unsightly  breaches  in  the  fence. 

If  you  have  plenty  of  quicks,  it  will  be  of  advantage  to  plant  a 
double  row  at  the  distance  of  a  foot  from  each  other,  in  which  case 
the  plants  may  be  set  ten  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  placing  those  of 
one  row  directly  opposite  the  intervals  of  the  other.  This  method  I 
would  prefer  to  the  former. 

The  quicks  must  afterwards  be  protected  from  cattle  by  palings  or 
some  kind  of  dead  fences,  till  they  arrive  at  a  proper  growth,  not  to 
be  injured  thereby;  and  for  the  two  first  years  kept  perfectly  free 
from  weeds ;  for  without  these  precautions  it  will  be  in  vain  to  plant 
them. 

The  quicks  being  tolerably  close  planted,  will  need  no  annual  top 
clipping  to  thicken  them ;  but  it  will  be  very  proper  to  shorten  occa- 
sionally any  extraordinary  vigorous  top  shoots,  so  as  to  keep  them, 
all  pretty  equal,  and  also  such  as  branch  out  too  much  at  the  sides. 
However,  it  would  be  very  advisable  to  give  a  slight  dressing  to  the 
sides  every  October  or  March,  for  a  few  years,  with  a  pair  of  hedge- 
shears,  which  may  be  done  in  a  short  time,  narrowing  the  hedge  a 
little  towards  the  top  to  afford  the  benefit  of  the  air,  rain,  and  dews 
to  the  lower  side  shoots ;  this  will  encourage  their  growth,  and  cause 
the  hedge  to  be  well  furnished  from  bottom  to  top. 

When  a  hedge  of  this  kind  is  to  be  made,  it  might  be  the  most 
convenient  way  to  plant  it  within  a  few  feet  of  some  established  post 
and  rail  fence,  and  erect  another  as  many  feet  from  it  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  each  at  such  a  distance  as  would  be  sufficient  to  keep  off 
cattle;  here  it  would  be  effectually  protected  until  arrived  at  a  proper 
height  and  strength,  when  both  these  ranges  of  palings  might  be 
taken  away  to  answer  similar  purposes ;  but  again  and  again  would 
I  suggest  the  necessity  of  keeping  the  plants  free  from  the  annoy- 
ance of  weeds  during  the  first  two  or  three  years  of  their  growth, 
after  which  they  will  be  completely  furnished  and  out  of  their  power. 
18 


2t4  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

The  autumn  or  spring  following  after  planting,  examine  your 
hedge,  and  if  any  of  the  plants  have  died,  or  seem  to  be  in  a  very 
bad  state  of  health,  replace  them  with  others  from  the  nursery, 
placing  some  fresh  earth  to  the  roots  of  each. 


CRAB  AND  APPLE  HEDGES. 

The  common  wild  thorny  crab  will  make  an  excellent  ground  or 
ditch  hedge,  and  will  thrive  in  a  poorer  soil  than  the  thorn ;  and 
hedges  raised  from  the  pippins  of  apples  do  tolerably  well  and  form 
strong  fences ;  the  former  is  raised  from  the  pippins,  and  the  latter 
can  be  propagated  in  abundance  by  sowing  the  pumice  very  thick, 
immediately  after  being  pressed  for  cider^  on  a  bed  of  good  ground 
properly  prepared,  and  covering  the  whole  with  fine  light  earth  near 
an  inch  deep ;  a  few  plants  will  appear  soon  after  sowing,  but  a  great 
crop  will  come  up  in  spring,  which  may  afterwards  be  used  for  stocks 
to  graft  on,  and  also  for  hedges,  where  more  suitable  kinds  cannot 
be  had. 


HORNBEAM  AND  BEECH  HEDGES. 

Oar  indigenous  kinds  of  hornbeam  and  beech  will  make  admirable 
hedges ;  the  seed  of  the  former,  which  it  produces  here  in  great 
abundance,  will  require  the  same  preparation  and  management  in 
every  respect  as  directed  for  haws  on  page  160,  &c. 

In  Westphalia  and  other  parts  of  Germany  the  hornbeam  is  in 
great  repute  for  hedges.  The  German  husbandman  throws  up  a 
parapet  of  earth,  with  a  ditch  on  each  side,  and  plants  his  sets,  raised 
from  layers,  in  such  a  manner  that  every  two  plants  intersect  each 
other;  then  he  cuts  off  the  bark  and  a  little  of  the  wood  from  each, 
and  binds  them  close  together  with  a  hay-band.  The  plants  unite 
and  form  a  living  palisado,  which,  being  pruned  or  dressed  annually 
with  discretion,  will,  in  a  few  years,  make  an  impenetrable  fence. 
Most  other  kinds  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

The  seeds  or  mast,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  of  the  beech,  may 
be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  but  as  the  ground-mice,  squirrels,  &c.,  are 
extremely  fond  of  them,  it  will  be  the  better  way  to  preserve  them 
in  dry  sand  till  March,  to  be  then  sown  either  in  drills  or  broadcast 
in  beds,  covering  them  not  more  than  half  an  inch  deep ;  for,  as  they 
rise  with  very  broad  seed-leaves,  they  could  never  work  up  through 
a  thick  covering.  The  beech  vegetates  the  first  spring  after  the  per- 
fection of  its  seed ;  the  hornbeam  not  till  the  second. 

HONEY-LOCUST  AND  ELM  HEDGES. 

The  Gleditsia  triacanthos,  or  honey-locust,  will  make  very  good 
hedges  j  the  seeds  are  to  be  sown  in  March,  and  covered  half  an  inch 
deep ;  they  will  come  up  freely,  and  when  a  year  old  may  be  trans- 
planted into  nursery  rows  till  of  sufficient  size  to  plant.  If  to  be 
planted  in  the  face  of  ditches,  they  will  in  the  second  year  be  in  prime 
condition  for  that  purpose. 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  275 

The  elm  makes  a  good  hedge,  and  is  propagated  by  seed,  suckers, 
or  layers ;  when  by  seed  it  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  which,  in 
the  middle  States,  is  between  the  15th  and  20th  of  May;  it  may  be 
sought  for  and  collected  at  that  time,  dried  for  four  or  five  days,  and 
then  sown  broadcast  on  a  bed  of  good  earth,  covering  the  seed  not 
more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep;  they  will  vegetate  immediately, 
and  when  up,  must  be  kept  very  clean  and  free  from  weeds.  All 
kinds  of  elm  may  be  propagated  freely  from  layers,  in  the  manner 
directed  under  that  article. 


HOLLY  HEDGES. 

Of  all  other  plants  there  is  none  that  makes  a  more  durable,  close 
and  beautiful  hedge  than  the  holly,  nor  one  that  agrees  better  with 
the  shears ;  it  may  be  clipped  and  dressed  to  any  form ;  the  seeds  do 
not  vegetate  till  the  second  spring  after  their  being  ripe,  and  conse- 
quently must  be  treated  as  directed  for  haws,  page  160,  &c.  They 
must  remain  two  years  in  the  seed-bed,  and  then  should  be  planted 
either  in  the  face  of  ditches,  or  into  nursery  rows,  if  intended  for 
ground  hedges ;  for  which  there  is  no  equal  as  to  beauty,  shelter  and 
closeness.  The  latter  end  of  April  is  the  best  season  to  plant  them : 
they  never  thrive  well  when  taken  out  of  the  woods,  but  are  very 
prosperous  when  cultivated  by  seed,  though  not  of  rapid  growth  for 
a  few  years. 

WHITE  MULBERRY  AND  LOMBARDY-POPLAR  HEDGES. 

The  white  mulberry  makes  a  tolerably  good  hedge,  and  may  be 
easily  propagated  by  washing  the  seed  out  of  the  pulp  when  the  fruit 
is  ripe,  drying  and  preserving  it  till  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  be- 
ginning of  April,  when  it  may  be  sown  on  a  bed  of  light  rich  earth, 
and  covered  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  the  plants  will  appear 
towards  the  latter  end  of  April,  when  they  must  be  kept  carefully 
weeded,  and  when  a  year  old  some  of  them  will  be  fit  to  plant  into 
nursery  rows;  the  small  plants  may  remain  in  the  seed-bed  a  second 
year,  and  then  transplanted  either  into  the  face  of  ditches  or  nursery 
rows  as  above.  They  are  also  cultivated  by  layers  and  cuttings,  but 
not  so  successfully  by  the  latter  as  by  either  of  the  former  methods. 

The  Lombardy  poplar  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  which  grow  very 
freely;  the  most  eligible  size  for  these,  though  much  larger  are  fre- 
quently used,  are  such  as  are  from  three-quarters  of  an  inch  to  an 
inch  in  diameter,  about  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  long,  and  are  to  be 
planted  two-thirds  of  their  lengths  into  the  earth.  These  and  the 
mulberry  bear  clipping  very  well,  but  not  being  spiny,  they  never 
make  formidable  fences. 


JUNIPER   AND   RED   CEDAR   HEDGES. 

Juniper  and  red  cedar  make  good  garden  hedges,  particularly  the 
former,  and  are  very  proper  for  affording  shelter  to  such  quarters  of 
the  garden  or  nursery  as  are  set  apart  for  the  raising  of  tender  plants 


276  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

in :  both  may  be  propagated  abundantly  from  seeds,  which  do  not 
vegetate  till  the  second  spring  after  ripening,  consequently  they  must 
be  prepared  as  directed  for  haws,  and  when  sown,  should  not  be 
covered  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  they  may  remain  in 
the  seed-bed  for  two  years,  if  not  too  thick,  and  then  planted  into 
nursery-rows ;  or  the  largest  may  be  taken  up  when  a  year  old,  and 
planted  therein,  provided  that  they  have  grown  freely.  The  juniper 
may  be  raised  by  cuttings,  planted  in  a  shady  border  towards  the 
latter  end  of  this  month. 


YEW  AND   PRIVET   HEDGES. 

Yew  and  privet  make  neat  garden  hedges ;  they  are  botfy  raised 
from  seeds  and  cuttings,  the  latter  planted  in  March,  and  the  seeds 
of  each  are  to  be  treated  as  directed  for  haws,  not  vegetating  the  first 
spring  after  ripening. 

PYRACANTHA  OR  EVERGREEN-THORN  HEDGES. 

The  Mespilis  Pyracantha,  or  evergreen  thorn,  will  make  a  tole- 
rably good  hedge ;  it  is  propagated  by  seed,  which  will  not  vegetate 
till  the  second  spring  after  ripening,  and  must  be  treated  accordingly. 

ROSE   AND   SWEETBRIER   HEDGES. 

Wild  roses  and  sweetbrier  are  sometimes  used  for  hedges,  and  may 
either  be  propagated  by  suckers,  layers,  or  seeds.  The  best  way  to 
cultivate  them  for  hedges  is  by  seed,  which  must  be  gathered  in  au- 
tumn when  ripe,  and  preserved  as  directed  for  haws,  till  the  spring 
following  twelve  months,  and  then  sown. 

ELDER,  WILLOW,  AND   ALDER   HEDGES. 

The  elder-tree  is  sometimes  used  for  hedges,  especially  when  a 
fence  is  wanted  as  soon  as  possible,  being  of  a  more  speedy  growth 
than  any  other  kind  commonly  used  for  that  purpose,  though  not  the 
most  effectual  nor  beautiful.  However,  an  immediate  fence  may  be 
made  of  it,  by  planting  large  truncheons  or  cuttings  of  the  straight- 
est  upright  shoots  and  branches,  from  two  or  three  to  six  feet  long, 
planted  either  upright,  a  foot  asunder,  and  wattled  along  the  top  to 
preserve  them  firm  and  even ;  or  by  planting  them  slanting  across 
one  another,  checkerwise,  forming  a  sort  of  lattice-work,  which  is  the 
most  effectual  method.  In  either  way  of  planting,  do  not  point  and 
drive  them  in,  as  is  commonly  done,  but  make  holes  for  their  recep- 
tion, twelve  or  fifteen  inches  deep,  with  a  crowbar,  then  insert  their 
ends,  and  make  the  earth  fast  about  them :  when  driven  down  by 
force,  the  bark  is  frequently  stripped,  which  in  a  great  measure  pre- 
vents their  rooting  freely,  and  pushing  as  vigorously  as  if  carefully 
planted. 

Various  kinds  of  willow  are  found  extremely  useful  to  plant  along 
the  sides  of  watery  ditches,  brooks,  rivulets  or  any  marshy  and  moist 
situations;  and  may  be  propagated  by  planting  small  cuttings,  or 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  27  7< 

large  truncheons,  as  directed  for  the  elder.  Either  of  these  you  may 
treat  the  following,  or  any  succeeding  spring,  as  the  Westphalians  do 
the  hornbeam,  noticed  on  page  274. 

The  alder  is  sometimes  made  use  of  as  a  fence  in  moist,  swampy 
places;  it  is  propagated  abundantly  by  suckers,  layers,  or  seed.  The 
seed,  if  sown  in  March,  covered  very  lightly,  and  when  up  kept  free 
from  weeds,  will  grow  prosperously. 

BLACK-THORN   HEDGES. 

The  black-thorn,  or  sloe,  is  a  tolerably  good  shrub  for  a  fence,  but 
is  subject  to  spread  too  much  by  suckers,  by  which  it  can  be  propa- 
gated ;  but  the  best  plants  are  always  produced  from  the  stones  of  the 
fruit,  collected  when  ripe,  and  then  sown  or  preserved  in  sand  or 
earth  till  early  in  March,  when  you  are  to  sow  and  cover  them  near  an 
inch  deep.  They  will  vegetate  the  first  season. 

PLUM-LEAVED   VIBURNUM    HEDGES. 

The  Viburnum  pruni/olium,  or  black  haw,  is  an  indigenous  plant, 
and  well  adapted  for  hedges.  It  may  be  propagated  in  abundance 
by  collecting  the  berries  in  autumn,  and  managing  them  in  every  re- 
spect as  directed  for  haws. 

Note. — When  you,  have  but  small  quantities  of  such  seeds  as  re- 
quire a  year's  preparation  previous  to  sowing,  you  may  mix  them  with 
light  sandy  earth,  which  mixture  put  into  garden  pots,  first  placing 
a  hollow  shell,  or  something  similar,  with  the  concave  side  under, 
over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  each,  the  better  to  suffer  any  extra 
moisture  to  pass  off;  then  place  the  pots  in  some  dry  border  up  to 
their  rims  in  the  earth,  but  not  deeper,  observing  to  cast  out  the 
whole  contents,  rubbing  and  mixing  it  well  together  three  or  four 
times  in  the  course  of  the  following  summer,  and  to  sow  the  seed, 
as  before  directed,  early  in  the  second  spring,  j  or  you  may  use  shal- 
low boxes  not  deeper  than  six  or  eight  inches,  having  their  bottoms 
perforated  with  several  holes,  and  covered  with  shells,  &c.,  but  by 
no  means  sink  them  in  the  earth  deeper 'than  their  edges,  as  you  have 
nothing  to  fear  from  the  frost ;  but  if  covered  in  summer  with  moss, 
or  anything  that  will  keep  the  earth  moderately  moist,  the  better ; 
or,  during  that  season,  you  may  plant  the  pots  or  boxes  in  some 
shady  border. 

OSAGE  APPLE  (MACLURA  AURANTIACA). 

The  first  of  these  plants  introduced  into  this  country,  was  brought 
by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark,  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  pre- 
sented to  the  author.  It  was  esteemed  by  the  Indians  for  making 
bows,  and  hence  they  called  it  bow-wood.  It  ought  to  be  in  the  col- 
lection of  every  person  having  trees  or  shrubbery,  as  its  foliage  is 
extremely  rich  and  beautiful,  in  which  it  bears  a  close  resemblance 
to  the  orange.  The  fruit  (which  is  said  to  be  eaten  by  the  Indians^), 
is  a  large  globular  ball  of  a  beautiful  green  color,  composed  of  a 


i  2T8  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

pulpy  substance  something  similar  to  the  orange.  It  is  easily  propa- 
gated by  seed,  layers  or  cuttings,  and  is  now  becoming  very  valuable 
for  hedging,  as  it  is  of  much  more  rapid  growth  than  the  thorns,  and 
is  quite  as  impenetrable;  it  is  not  affected  by  the  drought  in  sum- 
mer, and  is  every  way  preferable  for  hedges  :  they  should  be  planted 
eighteen  inches  asunder,  or  planted  as  a  standard  or  ornamental  tree ; 
it  will  attain  a  large  size  in  a  short  time,  and  the  branches  may  be 
trained  to  form  a  very  pretty  summer-house.  Mr.  Duke,  of  this  city, 
has  at  his  garden  (formerly  M'Mahon's),  a  tree  under  which  thirty 
persons  have  dined.  By  recent  discoveries  in  France  it  has  been 
ascertained  that  the  leaves  are  equally  as  good,  if  not  preferable,  for 
feeding  the  silk-worm ;  and  the  silk  is  considered  equal  in  quantity 
and  stronger  than  that  raised  on  the  mulberry. 

ADDITIONAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  HEDGES. 

It  is  not  very  eligible  to  mix  two  or  more  kinds  of  plants  in  any 
hedge,  for  they  seldom  grow  equally,  and  the  more  vigorous  sort  will 
destroy  the  other;  nor  is  it  proper,  for  the  same  reason,  to  plant 
trees  intended  for  timber  among  either. 

Should  you  have  a  variety  of  the  preceding  kinds  in  forwardness 
for  planting,  it  would  be  proper  to  observe,  in  the  surrounding 
country,  what  soil  and  situation  each  kind  thrives  best  when  growing 
in  a  wild  and  uncultivated  state,  which  will  enable  you  to  give  to 
every  one  its  favorite.  This  will  be  found  of  importance,  and  worthy 
of  being  attended  to. 

The  European  white  thorn  does  not  thrive  well  in  a  dry  gravel  or 
sand,  nor  in  a  cold  spuey  clay;  a  good  strong  loam  is  its  favorite. 

When  young  hedge  plants  of  any  kind  become  stunted  and  hide- 
bound in  consequence  of  the  poverty  of  the  ground,  &c.,  it  will  be 
proper  to  head  them  down  to  within  two  inches  of  the  ground,  either 
in  the  months  of  October  or  March,  cutting  them  off  clean  and 
smooth ;  observing,  however,  that  this  is  not  to  be  done  to  one  here 
and  there,  but  to  the  whole  row  out  of  the  face,  as  far  as  they  are  in 
that  condition.  The  summer  following  they  will  produce  vigorous 
and  prosperous  shoots. 

When  you  have  crab  hedges,  which  certainly  forms  very  good  and 
durable  ones,  you  may  encourage  one  vigorous  straight  shooting  plant, 
at  every  fifty  feet  distance,  by  pruning  and  cleaning  up  their  sfems 
till  out  of  the  reach  of  cattle,  retarding  the  ascending  growth  of  the 
others  by  annual  topping,  then  they  may  be  grafted  with  any  good 
kinds  of  cider  apples,  and  in  a  few  years  will  produce  fruit  in  abund- 
ance. 

Hedges  raised  from  the  pippins  of  apples  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  way;  but  you  may  suffer  some  to  stand  ungrafted,  for  many 
will  yield  very  good  cider  fruit,  and  perhaps  some  may  produce  new 
and  superior  kinds.  You  will  be  able  to  judge  by  leaf,  shoot,  and 
bud,  which  are  most  likely  to  produce  the  best  fruit,  and  which  not, 
and  manage  them  accordingly. 

We  have  various  other  plants  that  might  answer  for  live  hedges, 
which  due  observation,  and  a  little  experience  will  point  out ;  but5 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  279 

upon  the  whole,  I  am  of  opinion,  that  the  cockspur  thorn  will  answer 
a  better  purpose  with  us  for  outward,  strong,  and  durable  fences  than 
any  other. 

PLASHING  OP  HEDGES. 

This  is  a  very  necessary  operation,  especially  when  hedges  are 
grown  old,  or  have  been  so  neglected  as  that  gaps  are  formed  in 
several  places;  and  indeed  it  is  the  practice  in  countries  where  the 
greatest  attention  is  paid  to  them,  either  to  plash,  or  cut  them  all 
clean  down  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground  every  fourteen  or 
fifteen  years.  To  perform  this  business,  you  must  be  provided  with 
a  good  sharp  hedge-bill,  handsaw,  and  a  pair  of  strong  leather  gloves 
that  will  reach  up  to  your  elbows,  to  protect  your  hands  and  arms 
from  the  spines  or  thorns ;  unless  you  are  provided  with  these  you 
will  have  a  bloody  job  of  it;  but  being  so  fortified  it  will  be  but  a 
recreative  amusement. 

Then  select  some  of  the  main  upright  stems  at  distances  in  pro- 
portion to  the  general  growth  of  the  hedge,  to  serve  for  stakes,  which 
are  to  be  cut  off  with  the  saw  at  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet  from 
the  roots;  other  stakes  are  to  be  drove  down  in  those  vacancies  where 
growing  ones  do  not  occur,  between  which,  as  well  as  the  former,  to 
plash  and  lay  the  general  branches;  observing  that  the  shorter  the 
shoots  which  are  to  be  plashed,  the  closer  the  stakes  should  be  to  one 
another.  The  remainder  of  the  hedge  you  are  then  to  thin,  leaving 
only  a  sufficiency  of  the  best  and  longest  middle-sized  shoots,  to  lay 
down  and  work  in  between  those  stakes,  cutting  the  others  off  in  a 
sloping  manner,  within  five  or  six  inches  of  the  ground,  always  pre- 
ferring the  saw  to  the  bill,  for  this  purpose,  when  it  can  be  used  con- 
veniently. Proceed  then  to  lay  down  the  intended  shoots,  first 
lopping  off  the  straggling  side  branches,  and  cutting  or  gashing  occa- 
sionally such  of  the  larger  growths  as  are  not  pliant  .enough  to  yield 
and  keep  their  intended  stations,  observing  to  cut  them  no  deeper 
than  what  is  absolutely  necessary ;  lay  and  weave  them  in  between 
the  stakes  almost  to  a  horizontal  position,  all  leaning  one  way,  and 
their  top  extremities  terminating  as  much  as  possible  on  the  ditch 
side,  if  any;  if  not,  equally  on  both.  When  the  hedge  is  thus 
plashed,  finish  the  top  all  the  way  with  some  of  the  longest  and  most 
pliant,  but  stout,  of  the  shoots  which  were  first  cut  out,  previously 
divesting  them  of  all  their  side  branches,  and  working  two  together, 
lapping  around  and  over  one  another  between  each  stake,  by  which 
the  whole  plashing  will  be  kept  down  to  its  proper  birth ;  then  with 
the  hedge-bill  or  shears  dress  and  lop  off  any  projecting  or  straggling 
branches  at  the  sides  to  within  six  inches  of  the  hedge,  and  the  work 
is  finished. 

Never  lay  your  plashes  too  upright,  but  near  to  a  level ;  by  so 
doing,  the  sap  will  the  better  break  out  in  several  places^  for  the  pro- 
duction and  nourishment  of  a  number  of  young  side  shoots,  and  not 
run  so  much  to  the  ends,  as  it  would  if  laid  at  a  higher  elevation. 
Also  avoid  crowding  your  plashes  too  much,  and  never  lay  in  more 
than  can  conveniently  be  wove  between  the  stakes,  by  which  the 


280 


THE  NURSERY. 


[MARCH 


young  productions  will  have  the  benefit  of  the  air,  and  grow  much 
stronger  than  otherwise. 

Old  overgrown  fences,  which  have  been  planted  in  the  hedge  and 
ditch  way,  may  be  all  cut  clean  off  with  the  saw,  within  six  inches 
of  their  roots,  and  the  fallen  earth  in  the  bottom  of  the  ditch  dug 
up  and  laid  at  the  back  of  them;  they  will  shoot  vigorously,  and 
soon  form  a  fine  fresh  hedge. 

Large  ground  hedges  will  be  improved  by  cutting  them  down  at 
intervals  of  ten  or  fifteen  years,  to  the  height  of  three,  four,  or  five 
feet,  and  where  vacancies  occur,  to  fill  them  with  plashing,  always 
preferring,  on  these  occasions,  the  saw  to  the  bill,  especially  when 
the  shoots  are  large. 


CLIPPING  WITS  SHEARS. 

The  old  method  of  clipping  the  yew,  and  other  trees,  is  represented 
by  the  following  cut ;  it  is  an  ancient  yew  at  Elvaston  Castle,  Eng- 
land, and  is  probably  the  best  specimen  now  in  existence.  It  forms 
a  beautiful  clipped  arbor,  fifteen  feet  square  and  twenty  feet  high, 
and  very  perfect,  being  surmounted  by  two  peacocks,  and  over  them 
two  rings,  all  made  with  the  shears. 

Fig.  27. 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  281 


THE  PLANE,  TULIP,  AND  NETTLE-TREES. 

The  platanus  occidentah's,  or  plane-tree,  commonly  called  the  large 
buttonwood,  and  in  some  places,  though  very  improperly,  sycamore, 
is  a  valuable  tree  for  shade,  and  many  other  useful  purposes.  It 
may  be  propagated,  either  by  cuttings,  layers,  or  seed ;  but  the  last 
method  is  much  preferable  to  either  of  the  former,  not  only  with 
respect  to  this,  but  to  every  other  tree  bearing  seed,  which  may  be 
cultivated  for  its  timber;  and  although  it  may  appear  more  tedious 
at  first,  it  will,  in  the  end,  be  found  the  most  expeditious  and  profit- 
able. They  may  be  sown  either  in  November,  when  ripe,  or  in 
March,  first  breaking  the  balls  of  seed,  and  separating  them  effect- 
ually, mixing  them  with  some  dry  earth  or  sand,  and  then  sowing 
them  even  on  the  surface  of  prepared  four  feet  wide  beds  in  the 
nursery,  and  covering  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  or  a 
little  more,  if  the  earth  is  fine  and  light :  too  deep  covering  is  inju- 
rious to  all  kinds  of  seed,  for  nature  never  designed  more  than  a 
sufficiency  to  promote  and  give  action  to  vegetation.  They  will  come 
up  the  first  season,  and  the  next  or  succeeding  year  may  be  planted 
into  nursery  rows. 

The  Liriodendron  tulipifera,  or  tulip-tree,  commonly,  but  very 
improperly  called  poplar,  is  best  propagated  by  seed,  which  should  be 
sown  in  November,  when  ripe,  or  preserved  in  sand  or  earth  till  March, 
and  then  sown,  covering  them  half  an  inch  deep.  Those  sown  in 
November  will  all  grow  the  spring  following;  but,  if  kept  out  of  the 
ground  in  a  dry  state  till  spring,  a  great  number  of  them  will  not 
vegetate  till  the  next  year. 

The  Celtis  occidentcdis,  or  nettle-tree,  is  propagated  by  seed  which, 
if  sown  in  November,  when  ripe,  or  preserved  in  earth  or  sand  till 
March,  and  then  sown,  will  generally  vegetate  the  same  season ;  but 
if  the  berries  are  kept  dry  till  spring,  the  greater  number  of  them 
will  not  grow  till  the  next  year.  They  should  be  covered  about  an 
inch  deep. 

MAPLES.    - 

The  Acer  argenteum,  or  silvery  leaved,  and  Acer  rubrum,  or  scarlet 
maples,  perfect  their  seeds  in  May,  and  should  be  sown  immediately 
after  having  been  collected ;  they  will  vegetate  directly,  and  produce 
fine  plants  the  first  season,  if  kept  free  from  weeds.  The  seeds  of 
the  former  do  not  keep  well  till  spring,  but  those  of  the  latter  will. 

The  sugar,  Canada,  ash-leaved,  Pennsylvania,  and  mountain  maples, 
and  also  the  Acer  mayus,  or  sycamore,  may  be  sown  either  in  autumn 
or  March,  and  will  succeed  well  in  either  season ;  if  sown  in  autumn, 
cover  them  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep;  if  in  spring,  half 
an  inch  will  be  sufficient.  When  about  a  foot  high  in  the  seed-beds, 
plant  them  early  in  spring  into  nursery  rows,  at  proper  distances. 

CATALPA,  SWEET-GUM,  PAPAW,  AND  PERSIMMON. 

The  Bignonia  catalpa  will  grow  freely  from  seed,  which  is  to  be 


282  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

preserved  in  the  siliques  or  pods  till  March,  and  then  sown ;  or  it 
may  be  propagated  either  by  layers  or  suckers. 

The  Liquidambar  styraciflua,  or  maple-leaved  sweet-gum,  grows 
freely  from  seed  sown  early  in  spring. 

The  Annona  triloba,  or  common  papaw,  is  a  hardy  plant,  and  may 
be  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  about  an  inch  deep,  either  in  Octo- 
ber, November,  or  March. 

The  Diospyros  virginiana,  persimmon,  or  American  date  plum,  is 
best  cultivated  from  seed  sown  in  autumn,  soon  after  ripe,  or  in 
March ;  if  kept  up  till  spring,  some  of  them  will  not  vegetate  till 
the  second  year  after  sowing. 

CHESTNUTS,  WALNUTS,  HICKORIES,  AND  OAKS. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month  plant  the  nuts  of  the  European 
and  American  eatable  chestnuts,  also  of  the  horsechestnut,  and  like- 
wise of  the  different  varieties  of  walnuts  and  hickories,  which  you 
wish  to  propagate.  All  the  above  kinds  should  be  sown  in  drills, 
first  throwing  the  nuts  into  a  tub  of  water,  and  rejecting  such  of  them 
as  swim,  covering  them  with  light  rich  mould  about  two  inches  deep. 
The  drills  may  be  three  feet  asunder,  and  the  nuts  planted  about  six 
or  eight  inches  from  one  another  in  the  rows. 

The  different  varieties  of  oak  succeed  best  when  sown  immediately 
after  being  ripe  j  but  in  that  case,  they  have  to  encounter  the  depre- 
dations of  mice,  squirrels,  &c.,  to  avoid  which,  they  may  be  kept  in 
earth  or  sand  till  this  time :  but  as  most  of  them  will  be  sprouted, 
you  are  to  take  them  carefully  up,  without  breaking  the  radicles, 
and  plant  them  in  drills  two  feet  asunder,  covering  the  acorns  not 
more  than  three-quarters,  or,  at  most,  an  inch  deep,  with  light  loose 
mould. 

The  whole  of  the  above  kinds  may  remain  in  these  seed-drills  for 
two  years,  keeping  them  at  all  times  very  free  from  weeds ;  and  as 
they  are  generally,  but  more  particularly  the  walnut  kinds,  subject 
to  push  down  long  tap-roots,  and  not  to  form  many  lateral  ones,  it 
will  be  proper,  nay  it  will  be  necessary,  in  order  to  insure  success 
in  transplanting,  when  they  have  had  one  or  two  years'  growth,  to 
open,  in  the  spring,  a  small  trench  close  to  each  row,  and  then  with 
a  very  sharp  spade  to  cut  the  descending  roots  about  six  or  eight 
inches  under  ground,  casting  back  the  earth  when  done.  This  will 
cause  them  to  throw  out  a  number  of  laterals,  and  the  spring  follow- 
ing you  can  transplant  them  with  safety  into  nursery  rows,  at  greater 
distances,  to  remain  till  wanted  to  plant  out  where  finally  intended. 

ROBINIA,  OR  LOCUST-TREE. 

The  Robinia  pseudo-acacia,  or  common  locust-tree,  is  said  to  be 
superior  to  any  other  kind  of  wood  for  ship  runnels,  mill  cogs,  and 
fence  posts,  as  well  as  for  various  other  purposes.  Its  culture  is  very 
easy,  as  it  may  be  propagated  in  great  abundance  by  collecting  the 
seeds  in  autumn  when  ripe,  preserving  them  dry  till  March,  then 
sowing  them  in  a  bed  of  good  sandy  loam,  which  is  their  favorite  soil, 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  283 

and  covering  them  half  an  inch  deep.  They  will  come  up  in  the 
course  of  the  following  month  numerously,  for  no  seeds  grow  more 
freely,  notwithstanding  what  some  unexperienced  persons  assert  to 
the  contrary.  They  require  no  preparation  whatever;  sow  them  as 
above  directed,  and  a  good  crop  is  certain.  When  a  year  old  trans- 
plant them  out  of  the  seed-bed  into  nursery  rows,  four  feet  distant, 
and,  plant  from  plant,  one  foot  in  the  row.  Having  two  or  three 
years'  growth  in  these  rows  they  may  be  planted  successfully  in  any 
warm  and  tolerably  rich  sandy  ground.  They  may  also  be  propa- 
gated by  suckers,  which  they  throw  up  abundantly;  especially  if 
some  of  their  wide  extending  roots  be  cut  through  with  an  axe,  &c. 

The  Robinia  glutinosa  is  a  charming  plant;  it  produces  in  May 
numerous  bunches  of  delightful  flowers,  grows  to  a  good  size,  and  is 
a  great  ornament  in  pleasure-grounds.  It  may  be  propagated  by  seed 
in  like  manner,  or  by  grafting  it  on  the  former. 

The  Robinia  hispida,  or  rose  acacia,  is  a  most  beautiful  flowering 
shrub,  of  humble  growth,  and  may  be  propagated  by  suckers,  which 
it  produces  in  great  numbers,  or  by  grafting  it  on  either  of  the  above 
species. 

THE  ASH,  LIME,  AND  SOUR-GUM. 

The  various  kinds  of  Fraxinus,  or  ash,  are  propagated  by  seeds, 
which  are  to  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  haws, 
on  page  160,  &c.,  for  they  do  not  vegetate  till  the  second  spring  after 
the  seeds  are  ripe.  All  the  kinds  take  freely  by  grafting  on  one 
another. 

The  Tilia  americana,  or  American  lime  or  Linden  tree,  together 
with  every  other  species  of  the  same  genus,  is  easily  propagated  by 
layers,  or  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  October  or  November,  or  in  March, 
if  preserved  in  dry  sand  till  that  time.  Sow  the  seeds  on  an  even 
surface,  clap  them  in  with  the  back  of  a  spade,  and  cover  them  a  little 
better  than  half  an  inch  deep. 

The  Nj/ssa  integrifolia,  or  upland  tupelo-tree,  or  sour-gum,  is 
propagated  by  seed,  suckers,  layers,  or  cuttings ;  if  by  seed  sow  them 
immediately  when  ripe,  covering  them  an  inch  deep ;  some  of  them 
will  come  up  the  spring  following,  but  many  not  till  the  second  year. 
The  better  way  would  be  to  prepare  them  as  directed  for  haws,  and 
in  the  ensuing  March  examine  them;  if  you  then  find  many  show- 
ing symptoms  of  vegetation,  sow  them;  if  not,  let  them  remain  till 
that  time  twelve  months. 

DECIDUOUS  CYPRESS,  WHITE  CEDAR,  AND  ARBOR- VITJS. 

The  Cupressus  disticha,  bald  or  deciduous  cypress,  grows  to  an 
enormous  large  size,  the  foliage  of  which  is  uncommonly  beautiful 
during  the  summer  months.  It  is  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
March,  in  beds  of  good  mellow  earth,  covering  them  half  an  inch 
deep  ;  they  must  be  kept  very  free  from  weeds,  and  when  two  years 
old  transplant  them  from  the  seed-beds  into  nursery  rows. 

The  Cupressus  thyoides,  or  white  cedar,  is  propagated  by  sowing 


284  THE  NUESERY.  [MARCH 

the  seeds,  which  are  very  thin  and  flat  when  taken  out  of  the  cones, 
in  boxes  of  light  earth,  taken  from  swampy  ground,  and  covered 
about  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  or  a  little  more,  with  loose  rich  mould 
sifted  evenly  over  them ;  they  must  have  frequent  sprinklings  of 
water,  and  when  up,  and  the  heat  increases,  the  boxes  must  be  re- 
moved into  the  shade.  You  must  keep  them  very  free  from  weeds, 
as  many  of  the  seeds  will  not  grow  till  the  second  year.  When  they 
are  two  years  old  transplant  them  into  nursery  rows,  in  moist  light 
swampy  ground. 

The  Thuya  occidentalis,  or  American  arbor-vitae,  is  propagated  by 
layers  and  cuttings,  or  by  sowing  the  seed  as  directed  for  the  white 
cedar,  with  this  difference,  that  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  procure 
swampy  earth  for  it,  as  it  thrives  best  in  upland. 

The  Thuya  orientals,  or  Chinese  arbor-vitse,  may  be  propagated 
in  like  manner  as  the  occidentalis. 

All  the  above  kinds,  if  raised  by  seeds,  will  require  some  protec- 
tion during  the  first  two  years,  from  very  rigorous  frosts. 

PINES  AND  FIRS. 

The  pines  and  firs,  though  ranked  under  the  same  genus  (Pinus), 
may  be  easily  distinguished  from  one  another,  as  the  leaves  of  the 
former  come  out  by  two,  three,  or  more,  from  the  same  sheath,  and 
those  of  the  latter  singly.  In  the  cedar  of  Lebanon  and  larch,  they 
arise  in  bunches  from  the  same  bud,  spreading  out  every  way. 

It  is  also  to  be  remarked  that  all  the  pines  have  a  tendency  to 
drive  down  tap-roots,  and  therefore  are  more  impatient  of  transplant- 
ing than  the  firs,  whose  roots  generally  take  a  lateral  direction.  The 
larch  is  the  only  deciduous  plant  of  the  whole  family.  As  all  these 
kinds  are  not  only  very  useful,  but  extremely  ornamental,  and  as 
none  of  them  can  be  transplanted  from  the  woods  with  good  success, 
I  shall  be  the  more  minute  in  giving  the  true  methods  of  raising 
them,  so  as  to  insure  thereby  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  the  plants. 

The  Pinus  cedrus,  or  cedar  of  Lebanon,  is  rather  too  tender  for 
those  parts  of  the  Union  where  the  winter  frosts  are  very  rigorous; 
but  will  succeed  tolerably  well  in  warm  exposures  in  the  middle 
States,  if  protected  from  its  violence  a  few  years,  and  be  gradually 
inured  thereto.  The  seeds  when  procured  are  always  in  the  cones, 
and  are  extremely  difficult  to  be  got  out;  the  method  is,  bore  the 
cone  through  with  a  small  gimlet  direct  in  the  centre,  entering  it  at 
the  but-end  and  working  out  at  top ;  then  drive  in  a  round  iron  or  hard 
wooden  pin,  and  split  the  cones,  after  which,  raise  the  scales  one  after 
another  with  a  knife,  and  carefully  pick  out  the  seeds,  which  are  very 
tender. 

Having  your  seeds  ready,  sow  them  in  a  box  of  good  fresh  earth, 
covering  them  near  half  an  inch  deep ;  in  the  middle  States,  the  first 
week  in  April  will  be  the  best  time  to  do  this,  but  early  in  March 
will  be  preferable,  if  you  have  a  green-house  or  hot-beds  to  place  the 
box  therein  ;  give  them  a  little  sprinkling  of  water  frequently,  just 
what  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  earth -moist,  for  much  would  rot 
or  burst  the  seeds.  When  up,  do  not  expose  them  too  much  to  the 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  285 

sun  at  any  time  during  the  season,  nor  keep  them  in  too  confined  a 
place ;  and  on  the  approach  of  winter  remove  them  into  the  green- 
house, or  place  them  under  the  protection  of  glasses,  and  so  treat 
them  for  two  years,  without  removing  them  out  of  the  seed-box. 
Then,  early  in  April,  transplant  'them  carefully  into  separate  pots, 
treating  them  all  this  time,  and  for  two  or  three  years  more,  as  you 
do  green-house  plants ;  after  which  turn  some  of  them  with  the  earth 
out  of  the  pots,  and  plant  them  in  dry  warm  exposures. 

The  Pinus  pinea,  or  Italian  stone  pine,  grows  to  a  considerable 
height,  and  is  cultivated  chiefly  for  its  nuts  and  the  beauty  of  its 
foliage.  In  Italy  and  the  southern  parts  of  Europe,  the  kernels  are 
frequently  served  up  in  desserts  during  the  winter  season,  and  are  as 
sweet  as  almonds,  but  have  a  slight  flavor  of  turpentine.  The  cones 
are  generally  four  or  five  inches  long,  and  when  for  some  time  ex- 
posed to  the  sun,  they  open  and  drop  out  the  nuts,  which  should  be 
sown  towards  the  latter  end  of  March,  in  drills,  and  covered  about 
half  or  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep ;  when  they  have  had  one  or 
two  years'  growth  in  these  rows,  cut  their  tap-roots  as  directed  for 
walnuts,  on  page  282,  and  the  next  year  you  may  transplant  them 
about  the  first  week  in  April,  either  into  nursery-rows,  at  greater  dis- 
tances, or  where  they  are  to  remain. 

The  Pinus  cimbra,  or  Siberian  stone  pine.  There  is  a  variety  of 
this  that  grows  in  Switzerland,  and  higher  up  the  Alps  than  any 
other  pine,  and  is  found  on  elevations  where  the  larch  will  not  grow. 
The  stones  are  shorter  than  those  of  the  Italian  pine,  and  full  as 
thick.  The  wood  is  short,  having  scarcely  any  grain,  and  very  fit 
for  the  carver.  The  peasants  of  the  Tyrol,  where  this  tree  abounds, 
make  various  sorts  of  carved  works  with  the  wood,  which  they  dis- 
pose of  in  Switzerland  among  the  common  people,  who  are  fond  of 
the  resinous  smell  which  it  exhales.  Both  the  varieties  may  be  cul- 
tivated in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  Italian  stone  pine. 

All  the  other  species  and  varieties  of  pines  and  firs  may  be  suc- 
cessfully raised  in  the  following  manner  : — 

Being  provided  with  good  fresh  seeds,  for  on  this  everything  de- 
pends, prepare  for  their  reception,  as  early  in  the  spring  as  your 
ground  will  work  free  and  light,  and  pulverize  finely  in  the  working, 
beds  three  or  four  feet  wide,  of  rich  loamy  ground,  by  no  means  sub- 
ject to  burn  or  become  parched  with  the  summer  heats  ;  then  sow  the 
seeds  on  the  surface,  so  thick  as  that  you  may  expect/after  all  reason- 
able allowances  for  defective  seeds,  &c.,  at  least  a  plant  on  every  inch 
square  of  the  ground,  or  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  of  good  seed  to  a 
bed  three  feet  and  a  half  wide  and  sixty  long.  The  sowing  of  them 
so  thick  is  indispensable,  for  unless  they  completely  cover  the  sur- 
face, they  will,  if  not  carefully  shaded,  be  destroyed  in  their  infant 
state  by  the  summer  heat ;  early  sowing  is  also  necessary,  for  they 
have  nothing  to  apprehend  from  subsequent  frosts,  that  their  roots 
may  be  established  before  the  heat  overtakes  them.  After  the  seeds 
are  sown,  sift  over  the  smaller  sized  kinds  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
of  fine,  rich,  light,  mould,  and  over  the  larger,  nearly  half  an  inch, 
then  place  over  the  beds  nets  made  for  that  purpose,  or  any  old  small- 


286  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

meshed  fishing-nets,  to  keep  off  the  birds,  for  all  the  kinds,  when 
lightly  covered,  which  is  indispensable  to  their  growth,  generally 
carry  up  the  seeds  on  their  tops,  and  if  attacked  by  birds,  which  are 
extremely  fond  of  them,  the  far  greater  number  will  be  destroyed. 

The  beds  must  be  kept  completely  free  from  weeds  of  any  kind, 
from  the  moment  the  seeds  are  sown  during  the  continuance  of  the 
plants  therein ;  and  if  you  perceive  their  leaves  turn  foxy  in  sum- 
mer, by  heat  or  drought,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  them  occasional 
shade  and  water.  In  the  month  of  June  following,  sift  some  fine, 
light,  rich  earth  over  the  beds,  so  as  to  just  come  up  to  the  foliage 
without  covering  it,  which  will  protect  their  yet  tender  stems,  pre- 
vent their  being  scalded  by  extraordinary  heat,  which  often  melts 
them  away,  so  as  to  fall  flat,  whilst  the  foliage  appears  fresh ;  and 
besides,  it  will  help  to  retain  the  moisture  about  their  roots  and 
fibres. 

The  spring  following,  early  in  April,  or  as  soon  as  you  perceive  an 
inclination  in  the  buds  to  push,  pull  up  the  largest  grown  plants,  of 
such  kinds  as  have  arrived  at  the  height  of  three  inches  or  upwards, 
but  not  otherwise,  and  plant  them  in  drills  made  with  a  hoe  or  spade 
for  their  reception,  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  asunder,  and  eight 
inches  plant  from  plant  in  the  rows,  just  so  deep  as  that  the  earth 
may  come  up  to  their  foliage ;  close  it  well  about  the  roots,  and  water 
them  occasionally  till  sufficiently  taken  with  the  earth  and  growing 
freely,  and  if  repeated  occasionally  during  the  summer  and  early  au- 
tumn, the  better ;  always  giving  it  about  the  setting  or  going  down 
of  the  sun.  The  spring  following,  that  is,  when  they  have  two  years' 
growth  in  the  seed-beds,  take  them  all  up  out  of  the  face  with  a  spade 
without  injuring  the  roots  or  fibres,  and  plant  them  as  above,  with- 
out attempting  to  trim  them,  but  laying  them  in  a  spreading  and 
horizontal  manner  in  the  drills.  If  the  ground  is  good  and  the  sea- 
son proves  favorable,  a  great  number  of  the  larch  in  particular  will 
have  grown  to  a  sufficient  size  for  transplanting  into  nursery  rows  by 
the  ensuing  spring. 

When  the  plants  have  stood  two  or  three  years  in  these  rows,  they 
may  be  planted  in  others  at  greater  distances,  or  finally  where  they 
are  intended  to  remain ;  observing,  however,  that  the  fourth  or  fifth 
year  of  their  growth  is  the  most  successful  period  for  a  final  trans- 
planting, which  ought  always  to  be  done,  in  the  middle  States,  be- 
tween the  first  and  fifteenth  of  April,  earlier  in  the  southern,  and  not 
much  later  in  the  eastern  States. 

ALTHAEA  FRUTEX,  LABURNUM,  AND  SNOWY  MEDLAR. 

The  Hibiscus  syriacus,  or  althaea  frutex,  is  propagated  by  sowing 
the  seeds  in  March,  which  grow  very  freely;  all  the  varieties  of  it 
take  well  by  grafting  or  budding  on  one  another. 

The  Cytissus  laburnum,  or  common  laburnum,  grows  freely  by 
sowing  the  seed  in  spring,  and  covering  it  as  well  as  the  former,  about 
half  an  inch  deep. 

The  Mespilus  canadensis,  or  snowy  medlar,  is  a  beautiful  and  early 
flowering  shrub,  rises  to  a  good  height,  and  is  a  great  ornament  to 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  287 

pleasure  grounds.  It  is  propagated  abundantly  by  seeds,  which  should 
be  preserved  in  sand  from  the  time  of  their  being  ripe  till  March,  and 
then  sown  and  covered  about  half  an  inch  deep.  If  kept  in  a  dry 
state  till  spring,  some  will  vegetate  the  first  season  and  some  not  till 
the  second.  It  will  take  by  grafting  or  budding  it  on  any  kind  of 
medlar,  or  on  the  white  thorn,  pear,  or  quince. 
, 

THE  JUDAS,  SNOWDROP,  AND  FRINGE-TREES. 

The  Oercis  canadensis,  or  American  Judas-tree,  is  one  of  our  most 
beautiful  early  flowering  and  ornamental  plants ;  and  may  be  propa- 
gated by  sowing  its  seeds  in  March,  as  directed  for  the  common 
locust-tree. 

The  Halesia  tetraptera,  or  snowdrop-tree,  is  exceeded  by  very  few 
shrubs  for  the  beauty  of  its  numerous  white  pendant  flowers.  It 
may  be  propagated  by  suckers  or  layers,  or  by  sowing  the  seeds  in 
November  when  ripe,  or  in  March,  and  covering  them  near  an  inch 
deep  with  light  rich  mould. 

The  Chionanthus  virginica,  or  fringe-tree,  is  a  very  ornamental 
shrub,  and  may  be  cultivated  by  layers,  suckers,  or  seed.  Sow  the 
seeds  when  ripe  in  autumn,  covering  them  an  inch  deep  with  very  fine 
light  mould,  or  preserve  them  in  earth  or  sand  till  March,  and 
then  sow  them  as  above;  many  will  not  rise  till  the  second  spring, 
so  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  ground  very  free  from  weeds 
all  the  time. 

MAGNOLIAS. 

The  seeds  of  the  different  kinds  of  magnolia  should  be  sown  im- 
mediately after  being  ripe,  or  be  preserved  in  damp  sand  or  earth  till 
March;  for  if  kept  dry  till  that  time,  very  few,  if  any,  will  vegetate 
till  the  year  following;  and  indeed  may  not  until  the  second  season, 
even  if  sown  when  ripe.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  layers  and 
suckers,  and  by  grafting  and  budding  upon  one  another. 

RHODODENDRONS,  KALMIAS,  AZALIAS  AND  ANDROMEDAS. 

Each  and  every  species  and  variety  of  the  above  beautiful  families 
of  plants  may  be  propagated  either  by  seeds,  layers,  or  suckers.  The 
finest  plants  are  always  raised  from  seed,  and  although  the  process 
may  be  thought  tedious,  it  is  worth  attending  to ;  the  more  especially 
as  they  do  not  always  succeed  well  when  taken  from  the  woods,  and 
that  thousands  may  be  raised  in  this  way,  which  may  be  successfully 
removed  to  any  place  where  wanted. 

The  capsules  should  be  collected  when  the  seeds  are  perfectly  ripe, 
and  if  you  intend  to  sow  them  immediately,  which  is  certainly  the 
better  way,  expose  the  capsules  a  few  days  to  dry,  but  not  to  a  power- 
ful sun ;  they  will  then  open,  and  the  seeds  will  easily  shake  out ; 
but  if  you  do  not  intend  sowing  them  till  February  or  March,  pre- 
serve them  in  the  capsules  till  that  time.  To  have  a  double  chance 
sow  some  on  shady  borders  of  light,  dry,  loamy  earth,  and  also  in 


288  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

T>oxes,  making  the  ground  very  fine  and  even  on  the  surface,  then 
sow  the  seeds  thickly  thereon,  and  cover  them  not  more  than  the 
eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  or  rather  so  as  barely  to  hide  them.  Immedi- 
ately cover  the  beds  or  boxes  with  moss,  in  order  to  shade  the  surface 
and  vegetating  seed  from  the  influence  of  the  sun,  or  parching  air ; 
for  when  the  small  descending  radicles  are  protruded,  if  the  earth 
gets  dry  below  them,  all  will  be  destroyed ;  and  the  seeds  being  so 
very  minute,  if  covered  deep,  can  never  come  up;  therefore  it  will 
be  necessary  to  give  them  shade  and  very  frequently  light  sprinkles 
of  water;  the  moss  will  prevent  its  washing  the  earth  off  the  seeds, 
and  will  gently  communicate  the  moisture  to  the  surface  thereof. 
When  the  plants  begin  to  appear,  thin  the  moss,  and  expose  them, 
but  by  slow  degrees,  as  they  collect  strength.  If  the  boxes  be  placed 
in  a  green-house,  or  under  the  protection  of  garden  frames  and 
glasses,  from  the  time  of  sowing  the  seeds  till  the  middle  of  May,  it 
will  be  a  great  advantage ;  observing  that  the  plants,  when  up,  must 
be  carefully  protected  from  the  mid-day  sun  whilst  in  an  infant  state. 
Towards  the  middle  of  May  remove  the  boxes  to  some  comforting 
shade,  to  remain  there  till  the  latter  end  of  October,  then  place  them 
in  a  warm  exposure  till  the  approach  of  severe  frosts,  when  they  may 
be  put  into  a  garden  frame,  and  slightly  protected  during  winter. 
Suffer  the  plants  to  remain  in  the  seed  boxes  or  beds  till  they  have 
two  years'  growth,  being  careful  to  give  them  shade  and  water  in  sum- 
mer, and  some  slight  protection  in  winter,  and  in  the  beginning  of 
April  plant  them  out  into.nursery  rows  as  directed  for  firs  and  pines, 
on  page  284,  in  a  shady  situation  and  a  loamy  soil;  covering  the 
ground  about  their  roots  with  moss  to  keep  it  moist  till  the  plants 
are  established;  observing  to  give  them  occasional  watering  during 
the  first  summer  and  autumn  after  being  thus  planted  out. 

Note. — All  other  minute  seeded  shrubby  plants,  such  as  ericas,  &c., 
when  propagated  by  seed,  should  be  treated  in  the  above  manner, 
with  this  difference,  that  they  must  have  protection  and  heat  in  win- 
ter, in  proportion  to  their  necessities,  and  soil  adapted  to  their  respect- 
ive natures.  Such  may  also  be  raised  under  bell-glasses,  without 
the  assistance  of  moss,  as  these  confine  the  evaporations  from  the 
earth,  thereby  preserving  the  moist  atmosphere  around  the  plant, 
which  prevents  a  greater  exhalation  of  sap  from  the  tender  leaves, 
than  the  small  radicles  are  yet  able  to  extract  and  supply,  which  is 
frequently  the  cause  of  the  sudden  death  and  disappearance  of  vari- 
ous other  crops  in  warm  climates. 

WEIGELA  AMABILIS. 

This  beautiful  new  plant  possesses  such  interest  to  the  modern  gar- 
den, from  its  blooming  twice  in  the  year,  that  we  insert  an  illustra- 
tion of  the  new  favorite.  Like  W.  rosea  it  is  a  native  of  China  and 
Japan,  and  deserves  to  be  grown  by  all  who  have  space  for  a  single 
shrub.  It  is  preferable  to  the  rosea. 


MARCH] 


THE  NURSERY. 
Fig.  28. 


289 


Weigela  Amabilis. 

1.  Calyx  and  pistil.    2.  Corolla  laid  open.    3.  Gland  from  the  inner  base  of  the  tube  of 
the  corolla.    4.  Transverse  section  of  ovary — magnified. 


CALYCANTHUS,  FRANKLINIA,  AND   GORDONIAS. 

The  CalycantJius  floridus,  or  Carolina  allspice,  commonly  called 
the  sweet-scented  shrub,  is  deserving  of  a  place  in  every  pleasure- 
garden,  on  account  of  the  delightful  odor  of  its  flowers.  It  is  easily 
propagated  by  layers  or  suckers ;  the  most  eligible  time  of  laying  it 
is  in  autumn,  and  by  the  spring  following  twelve  months,  they  may 
be  taken  off  and  planted  with  good  success. 

The  Franldinia  alatamalia^  of  Bartram,  is  a  most  charming  plant, 
and  very  deservedly  worthy  of  cultivation ;  it  may  be  propagated  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  Calycanthus,  as  may  also  all  the  family  of 
Gordonias,  which  are  very  ornamental  shrubs. 

19 


290  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

i 

RHUS,  OR   SUMACH. 

The  various  kinds  of  rhus  or  sumach,  may  be  propagated  by  suck- 
ers, layers,  or  seed.  The  seeds,  if  preserved  in  sand,  and  sown 
early  in  March,  will  rise  freely  the  same  season,  and  when  one  or 
two  years  old,  may  be  transplanted  into  nursery-rows,  and  having  had 
there  two  years'  growth,  may  be  planted  where  intended  to  remain. 

THE   CORK-TREE. 

The  Quercus  suber,  or  cork-tree,  may  be  cultivated  with  good  suc- 
cess in  the  southern  States,  and  consequently  deserves  to  be  noticed 
among  other  articles  of  great  national  importance.  It  is  a  native  of 
the  south  of  Europe,  and  the  northern  parts  of  Africa.  At  present 
there  are  considerable  woods  of  them  between  Rome  and  Naples,  be- 
tween Pisa  and  Leghorn,  and  also  in  Spain,  Portugal,  and  the  south 
of  France. 

The  uses  of  the  cork  are  well  known  amongst  us,  by  sea  and  land, 
for  its  resisting  both  water  and  air ;  the  fishermen  who  use  nets,  and 
all  who  deal  in  liquors,  cannot  do  well  without  it.  Some  persons 
prefer  it  to  leather  for  the  soles  of  their  shoes,  being  light,  dry,  and 
resisting  moisture,  whence  the  Germans  name  it  Pantoffel-hohs,  or 
slipper-wood;  it  was  first  applied  to  that  purpose  by  the  Grecian 
ladies,  whence  they  were  called  light-footed.  The  poor  people  in 
Spain,  and  other  parts  of  the  south  of  Europe,  lay  planks  of  it  by 
their  bed  side  to  tread  on,  as  great  persons  use  Turkey  and  Persian 
carpets ;  they  also  employ  it  for  bee-hives.  For  this  last  purpose, 
they  roll  the  bark  into  a  cylinder,  or  into  a  conical  form,  and  it  an- 
swers the  end  extremely  well.  It  is  also  used  for  making  cork  jack- 
ets, which  have  been  found  eminently  useful  for  mariners,  passen- 
gers at  sea,  and  for  all  those  who  resort  to  bathing-places  for  the 
benefit  of  their  health ;  as  such  will  enable  the  most  timorous  to  swim 
with  perfect  safety. 

Of  the  cork-tree  there  are  two  or  three  varieties,  one  with  broad 
leaves,  a  second  with  narrow  leaves,  both  evergreen,  and  one  or  two 
which  cast  their  leaves  in  autumn ;  but  the  broad-leaved  evergreen 
kind  is  the  most  common,  and  said  to  produce  the  best  cork.  The 
leaves  of  this  are  entire,  about  two  inches  long,  and  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  broad,  with  a  little  down  on  their  under  sides,  having  very 
short  footstalks ;  they  continue  green  through  the  winter,  and  gene- 
rally fall  off  just  before  the  new  leaves  come  out,  so  that  the  trees 
are  often  bare  for  a  short  time.  The  acorns  are  very  like  those  of 
our  common  white  oak. 

The  exterior  bark  is  the  cork,  which  is  taken  from  the  tree  every 
eight  or  ten  years ;  but  there  is  besides  an  interior  bark  which  nour- 
ishes them,  so  that  the  stripping  off  the  outer  coat  is  so  far  from  in- 
juring the  trees,  that  it  is  of  real  service ;  for  when  it  is  not  taken  off 
they  seldom  last  longer  than  fifty  or  sixty  years  in  health ;  whereas 
trees  which  are  barked  every  eight  or  ten  years  will  live  one  hundred 
and  fifty,  or  more.  The  bark  of  a  young  tree  is  porous  and  good  for 
little ;  however,  it  is  useful  to  take  it  off  when  the  trees  are  twelve 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  291 

or  fifteen  years  old,  for  without  this  it  will  never  be  good.  After 
eight  or  ten  years  the  bark  will  be  fit  to  take  off  again  ;  but  the  second 
peeling  is  of  little  use.  At  the  third  peeling  it  will  be  in  perfection, 
and  continue  so  for  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  years — for  the 
best  cork  is  taken  from  old  trees.  The  time  for  stripping  is  in  July, 
or  early  in  August,  or  when  the  second  sap  flows  plentifully  :  the  ope- 
ration is  performed  by  slitting  it  down  on  one  side,  raising  the  edges, 
and  then  it  will  peel  off  readily. 

Having  procured  the  acorns  in  good  condition,  they  are  to  be 
treated  in  every  respect  as  directed  for  other  kinds  of  oak,  on  page 
282  j  but  if  they  are  planted  at  once  where  intended  to  remain  for 
full  growth,  it  will  be  much  the  best  way ;  in  which  case,  particular 
care  must  be  taken  to  keep  them  free  from  weeds  during  their  infant 
state,  and  to  protect  them  from  the  annoyance  of  cattle  till  grown 
out  of  their  reach.  The  sooner  the  acorns  are  planted  after  having 
been  procured  the  better,  for  when  long  kept  in  a  dry  state  they  lose 
their  vegetating  power,  like  every  other  kind  of  oak. 

Curse  them !  exclaims  the  peevish  planter ;  I  shall  never  live  to 
cork  a  bottle  with  them.  Have  patience,  good  sir;  you  have  no 
objection  to  throw  by  a  few  dollars  in  an  iron  chest  for  posterity, 
never  to  come  in  contact  with  the  light  of  the  sun  during  your  exist- 
ence, and  which  will  always  be  depreciating  in  value  as  the  circula- 
tion of  paper  currency  increases,  and  from  several  other  circumstances, 
a  few  of  which,  if  laid  out  on  planting  cork-trees,  would  be  rapidly 
accumulating  wealth  for  your  children,  and  rendering  a  real  service 
to  your  country,  besides,  every  day  you  walked  out,  you  would  have 
the  pleasure  of  beholding  your  little  family  of  trees  prospering  in 
health  and  beauty,  humbling  their  boughs  before  you,  and  in  their 
silent  language  returning  you  grateful  thanks  for  your  fostering  care, 
and  promising  to  reward  your  offspring  for  the  friendly  protection 
which  you  afforded  them  in  their  minor  days. 

TANNER'S  SUMACH. 

The  Rhus  coriaria,)  or  elm-leaved  sumach,  is  a  plant  which  should 
be  introduced  and  cultivated,  particularly  in  the  southern  States, 
where  it  will  prosper  in  great  perfection.  It  grows  naturally  in 
Italy,  Spain,  the  south  of  France,  the  Levant,  about  Aleppo,  Kama, 
and  near  Algiers,  in  Africa.  The  branches  are  used,  instead  of  oak- 
bark,  for  tanning  leather ;  but  the  great  and  particular  necessity  of 
its  introduction  into  the  United  States  is,  that  without  it  our  tanners, 
who  are  both  numerous  and  industrious,  cannot  manufacture  what  is 
called  Turkey  or  Morocco  leather  in  good  perfection ;  for  it  is  with 
this  plant  exclusively  that  that  valuable  article  is  tanned  in  the 
eastern  world ;  and  a  substitute  for  it  has  not  yet  been  discovered  in 
America. 

It  has  a  strong  woody  stem,  divided  into  many  irregular  branches, 
and  rises  to  the  height  of  eight  or  ten  feet  or  more ;  the  bark  is  hairy, 
and  of  an  herbaceous  brown  color  when  young.  The  leaves  are  com- 
posed of  seven  or  eight  pair  of  leaflets,  terminated  by  an  odd  one; 
these  leaflets  are  about  two  inches  long,  and  half  an  inch  wide  in  the 


292  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

middle,  and  are  of  a  yellowish  green  colorf'  The  flowers  grow  in 
loose  panicles  at  the  ends  of  the  branches,  each  panicle  being  com- 
posed of  several  thick  spikes  of  flowers,  sitting  close  to  the  footstalks; 
they  are  of  a  whitish  herbaceous  color,  and  appear  in  June  and  July, 
and  are  followed  by  numerous  roundish  compressed  seeds. 

It  may  easily  be  propagated  by  seed,  which,  if  sown  soon  after 
being  ripe,  or  preserved  in  sand  or  earth  till  spring,  will  grow  freely 
the  first  year;  but  if  kept  dry  till  spring,  they  do  not  generally  vege- 
tate till  the  next  season.  It  can  also  be  propagated  by  suckers,  which 
it  produces  pretty  freely,  or  by  layers.  It  is  tolerably  hardy,  and 
will  thrive  in  warm  exposures  in  the  middle  States. 

MULBERRY-TREES   AND    SILK-WORMS. 

The  Morus  allay  or  white  mulberry,  is  a  native  of  China,  Cochin- 
China  and  Japan,  and  according  to  Gmelin,  of  Persia.  It  grows 
well  in  the  United  States,  and  may  be  cultivated  to  great  advantage 
for  the  feeding  of  silk- worms,  as  well  here  as  in  France,  Spain,  or 
Italy.  In  Spain,  Mr.  Townsend  informs  us  that,  in  the  Province  of 
Valencia,  they  prefer  the  white  mulberry;  but  in  that  of  Grenada, 
they  give  a  preference  to  the  black.  The  Persians  generally  make 
use  of  the  latter;  and  it  has  been  asserted,  upon  very  good  authority, 
that  worms  fed  with  the  black  mulberry  produce  much  better  silk 
than,  those  fed  with  the  white.  But  the  leaves  of  the  black  should 
never  be  given  to  the  worms  after  they  have  eaten  for  some  time  of 
the  white,  lest  they  should  burst. 

Sir  George  Staunton,  in  his  embassy  to  China,  says  that  the  trees 
he  observed  in  that  country  did  not  appear  to  differ  from  the  com- 
mon mulberry-trees  of  Europe ;  that  some  of  them  were  said  to  bear 
white,  and  some  red  or  black  fruit,  but  that  often  they  bore  none ; 
and  that  the  tender  leaves  growing  on  young  shoots  of  the  black  mul- 
berry are  supposed  to  be  the  most  succulent. 

About  the  year  of  Christ  551,  two  Persian  monks,  employed  as 
missionaries  in  some  of  the  Christian  churches  established  in  India, 
penetrated  into  the  country  of  Seres,  or  China.  They  there  observed 
the  labors  of  the  silk-worm,  and  became  acquainted  with  the  art  of 
working  up  its  productions  into  a  variety  of  elegant  fabrics.  They 
explained  to  the  Greek  Emperor,  at  Constantinople,  these  mysteries, 
hitherto  unknown,  or  very  imperfectly  understood,  in  Europe ;  and 
undertook  to  bring  to  the  capital  a  sufficient  number  of  those  wonder- 
ful insects.  This  they  accomplished  by  conveying  the  eggs  of  the 
silk-worm  in  a  hollow  cane.  They  were  hatched,  and  afterwards  fed 
with  the  leaves  of  a  wild  mulberry- tree,  and  multiplied  and  worked 
in  the  same  manner  as  in  those  climates  where  they  first  became  the 
objects  of  human  attention  and  care.  Vast  numbers  of  these  insects 
were  soon  reared  in  different  parts  of  Greece,  particularly  in  the 
Peloponnesus.  Sicily  afterwards  undertook  to  breed  silk-worms  with 
equal  success,  and  was  imitated,  from  time  to  time,  in  several  towns 
of  Italy.  In  all  these  places  extensive  manufactures  were  established, 
with  silk  of  domestic  production. 

From  the  reign  of  Justinian,  it  was  mostly  in  Greece  and  some  of 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  293 


the  adjacent  islands  1%  silk-worms  were  reared.  Soon  after  the 
conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the  Venetians,  in  the  year  1204,  they 
attempted  the  establishment  of  the  silk  manufacture  in  their  domi- 
nions, and  in  a  short  time  the  silk  fabrics  of  Venice  vied  with  those 
of  Greece  and  Sicily. 

About  the  beginning  of  the  fourteenth  century,  the  Florentine 
manufactures  of  silk  became  very  considerable.  It  was  introduced 
much  later  into  France;  the  manufacture  of  silk,  though  considerably 
encouraged  by  Henry  IV.,  not  having  been  fully  established  there 
till  under  Louis  XIV.,  by  Colbert. 

"  It  is  an  established  and  well-known  fact  that  both  the  white  and 
black  mulberry-trees  grow  as  well  in  almost  every  part  of  the  United 
States  as  in  any  country  on  earth  ;  and  also  that  silk  has  been  raised 
and  manufactured  into  a  most  excellent  fabric,  under  the  direction  of 
that  great  and  venerable  patriot,  and  friend  o"f  mankind,  Dr.  BENJA- 
MIN FRANKLIN.  That  so  useful  a  pursuit  should  be  suffered  to  die 
away  in  a  country  as  well  adapted  for  it  as  any  in  the  universe,  is  as 
extraordinary  as  it  is  unfortunate  and  injurious  to  the  real  interest 
of  the  nation." 

Trees  which  are  designed  to  feed  silk-  worms  should  never  be  suf- 
fered to  grow  tall,  but  rather  kept  in  a  sort  of  hedge  ;  and  instead  of 
pulling  off  the  leaves  singly,  the  young  twigs  should  be  cut  off  with 
them  on,  which  is  much  sooner  done,  and  not  so  injurious  to  the  trees. 
This  is  the  more  interesting  as  the  mulberry  makes  a  tolerably  good 
hedge  and  can  be  used  with  advantage  for  both  purposes. 

The  raising  and  manufacture  of  silk,  as  well  as  every  other  new 
establishment,  can  only  be  brought  to  perfection,  and  consequently  into 
repute,  by  the  industry  of  some  wealthy  individuals,  or  by  established 
companies  whose  united  efforts  will  surmount  the  difficulties  which 
always  present  themselves  in  new  undertakings  :  for  we  every  day 
see  those  that  deal  in  small  quantities  in  any  way  of  life,  or  in  any 
commodities  whatever,  generally  unsuccessful,  whilst  at  the  same 
time,  others  possessed  of  wealth,  or  in  established  societies,  dealing 
largely  in  the  same  articles,  acquire  vast  property  and  riches;  merely 
from  being  able  to  afford  constant  and  regular  employment  for  the 
people  engaged  in  the  business,  and  having  due  attention  paid  to 
every  department  thereof. 

The  vast  wealth  of  Lyons,  and  of  various  other  places,  gained  from 
the  labors  of  this  little  insect,  plainly  show  that  where  no  accommo- 
dations or  materials  are  wanted  to  employ  a  multitude  of  hands  in  a 
regular  society  or  combination  of  undertakers,  the  silken  manufacture 
must  answer;  and  that  people  may  grow  rich  thereby,  as  well  in 
America,  as  in  any  other  country,  if  similarly  pursued,  is  too  self- 
evident  to  bear  contradiction. 

With  a  view  and  expectation  that  this  business  may  be  attempted 
successfully,  I  shall  contribute  my  mite  by  giving  the  best  informa- 
tion that  I  have  been  able  to  acquire  on  the  subject;  not  in  the  least 
doubting  but  that  better  may  be  easily  obtained,  for  the  introduction 
of  this  important  work. 

The  first  object  is  to  raise  a  sufficient  quantity  of  mulberry-trees, 
of  both  the  white  and  black  kinds,  which  are  very  easily  propagated, 


294  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

as  directed  on  page  275.  The  cultivating  of  both  kinds  I  think  the 
more  necessary,  from  the  different  opinions  entertained  of  their  utility 
for  this  purpose,  and  the  universal  admission  of  either  kind  answer- 
ing the  end. 

The  next  is  to  procure  the  eggs,  about  the  beginning  of  May,  or 
when  the  mulberry  begins  to  expand  its  leaves,  to  lay  them  on  paper 
or  flannels  placed  on  shelves,  in  warm  exposures,  where  they  may 
have  the  heat  of  the  sun  to  hatch  them.  In  Sicily,  boarded  or  frame 
houses  are  commonly  erected  for  this  purpose  in  the  fields,  among  the 
mulberry-trees,  with  a  number  of  shelves  rising  one  above  another, 
and  a  large  table  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  on  which,  when  they  are 
hatched,  to  lay  over  them  the  young  twigs  bearing  the  leaves  intended 
for  their  food,  which  must  be  removed  and  renewed  as  often  as  neces- 
sary; keeping  them  always  clean  from  dead  leaves,  and  their  own 
dirt.  A  man  and  boy  will  attend  all  the  worms  that  come  from  six 
ounces  of  eggs,  and  those,  one  year  with  another,  will  spin  twenty 
pounds  weight  of  silk. 

The  method  of  clearing  off  their  dirt  is  this;  spread  a  net  over  the 
worms,  on  which  lay  fresh  food;  they  will  all  crawl  through  the 
meshes  to  feed  on  the  leaves,  when  they  may  be  taken  up  without 
the  least  injury,  and  their  shelves  cleaned  effectually :  after  which 
lay  fresh  twigs  with  leaves  on  the  shelves ;  over  these  lay  the  nets 
and  they  will  return  to  their  former  places,  when  the  nets  may  be 
laid  by  till  wanted  again  for  a  similar  purpose.  In  some  countries 
the  worms  are  suffered  to  feed  and  work  upon  the  trees,  but  their 
being  subject,  under  such  circumstances,  to  the  ravages  of  birds,  un- 
favorable changes  of  weather,  &c.,  they  are  generally  kept  in  houses 
or  sheds  erected  for  that  purpose. 

In  Turkey,  the  worms  are  fed  in  long  barns,  made,  both  walls 
and  roofs,  of  reed  or  cane;  when  they  are  fed,  and  afterwards  spin 
their  clues  upon  these  reeds.  In  Italy  and  Spain,  they  are  kept  to 
feed  in  the  same  rooms  wherein  the  people  live  and  do  their  other 
household  affairs,  feeding  them  on  shelves  and  tables  without  more 
curiosity. 

It  is  observed,  that  the  worms  are  commonly  sick  three  or  four 
times  during  their  feeding,  generally  about  ten  days  after  they  are 
hatched,  and  at  weekly  periods  afterwards.  Their  best  treatment, 
during  these  times,  is  to  give  them  but  little  food  while  sick.  The 
whole  time  of  their  feeding  is  about  seven  weeks ;  and  as  they  g«t 
strength  and  grow  bigger,  it  need  hardly  be  said  that  you  must  give 
them  more  and  oftener.  The  leaves  should  not  be  given  to  the 
worms  whilst  wet  with  the  dew  or  rain. 

When  they  have  fed  their  due  time  they  begin  to  look  clear,  and 
a  little  of  the  yellowish  cast,  and  to  prepare  for  work ;  at  every  time, 
but  at  this  more  particularly,  they  should  have  plenty  of  air.  Then 
small  branches,  divested  of  their  leaves,  are  laid  over  them  and  in 
their  way,  upon  which  they  mount  and  attach  themselves,  and  in 
a  few  days  each  will  cover  itself  all  over  with  silk  so  as  to  be  seen 
no  more,  till  suffered  to  work  its  way  out  for  the  business  of  propa- 
gation. 

In  about  two  weeks  they  commonly  finish  their  balls,  and  soon 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  295 

after  cut  their  way  out,  and  couple  for  procreation;  the  balls  so  per- 
forated are  then  good  for  nothing;  but  it  is  necessary  to  suffer  a  suffi- 
cient number  to  come  out  in  this  way,  to  produce  a  sufficiency  of  eggs 
for  the  next  season's  brood.  The  others,  when  they  have  done  work- 
ing, and  before  they  begin  to  cut  through,  should  be  all  put  into  an 
oven  just  sufficiently  hot  to  kill  the  worms. 

The  method  of  winding  the  silk  off  the  balls,  is  first  to  find  their 
ends,  which  is  not  difficult,  and  then  put  about  a  dozen  or  fifteen 
of  them  into  a  basin  of  hot  water,  wherein  is  dissolved  a  little  gum 
tragacanihy  commonly  called  gum  dragon;  and  thus  they  will  be 
easily  wound.  Sometimes  the  balls  are  gummy,  in  which  case  they 
should  be  thrown  into  a  hot  clean  lye  of  wood  ashes,  and  after  that 
into  scalding  pure  water,  which  will  cause  them  to  wind  freely. 

When  the  animal  is  protruded  from  the  egg,  it  is  a  small  blackish 
worm,  very  active,  and  naturally  crawls  about  in  search  of  food;  at 
this  period  it  should  be  fed  with  the  youngest  and  most  tender  leaves; 
in  eight  or  ten  days  it  will  increase  in  size  to  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  length.  It  is  then  attacked  with  its  first  sickness,  which  is 
a  kind  of  lethargic  sleep,  for  about  two  or  three  days'  continuance  ; 
during  which  time  it  changes  its  skin,  preserving  the  same  bulk.  It 
undergoes  similar  sickness  and  changes  three  or  four  times,  at  in- 
tervals of  about  eight  days,  before  it  arrives  at  its  full  size ;  which 
is  from  an  inch  and  a  quarter  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length  ;  and 
the  intervals  between  these  changes,  and  consequently  the  periods  of 
its  arrival  at  maturity  for  work,  are  said  to  vary  in  different  climates, 
which  is  very  probable. 

After  it  has  formed  its  cocoon  or  ball  of  silk,  and  undergone  its 
change  in  the  heart  of  it,  it  comes  forth  a  heavy,  dull-looking  moth, 
with  wings,  but  these  it  seldom  uses  for  flying ;  it  only  flutters  and 
crawls  slowly  about  in  quest  of  its  mate ;  soon  after  copulation  the 
female  lays  its  eggs,  and  both  die  without  tasting  food  in  this  stage 
of  their  existence. 

When  in  the  worm  or  caterpillar  state,  they  are  of  a  blackish,  or 
a  milk  or  pearl  color ;  the  former  are  esteemed  the  best.  The  body 
is  divided  into  seven  rings,  to  each  of  which  are  joined  two  very  short 
feet.  It  has  a  small  point  like  a  thorn  exactly  over  the  anus.  There 
are  a  considerable  variety  of  breeds,  some  of  which  possess  qualities 
much  superior  to  others.  This  is  a  particular  of  much  importance 
to  be  adverted  to  at  the  time  of  beginning  to  breed ;  for  it  will  make 
a  great  difference  in  the  profit  to  the  undertaker.  The  eggs,  when 
obtained,  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  neither  exposed  to  heat 
nor  to  excessive  frosts,  till  wanted  for  hatching  the  ensuing  season. 

The  Morus  nigra,  or  black  mulberry,  is  more  esteemed  for  its  fruit 
than  the  white,  and  when  cultivated  for  such,  layers  or  cuttings  from 
good  fruit-bearing  trees  ought  to  be  preferred  to  raising  them  by 
seed ;  for  monoecious  trees,  until  arrived  at  a  good  age,  bear  male 
flowers  chiefly  and  very  little  fruit.  The  cuttings,  if  taken  off  in 
March,  rightly  chosen,  and  skilfully  managed,  will  do  very  well; 
though,  in  general,  they  do  not  take  as  freely  in  this  way  as  many 
other  trees ;  however,  if  placed  under  bell-glasses,  they  will  strike 
with  great  certainty ;  but  where  there  is  no  such  conveniency,  the 


THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

ground  about  them  should  be  covered  with  moss  to  prevent  its  dry- 
ing ;  and  where  this  is  carefully  done,  they  will  want  but  little  water, 
and  will  succeed  much  better  than  with  having  too  much  wet. 

The  Morus  rubra,  or  red  American  mulberry,  is  admired  by  some 
on  account  of  the  pleasant  acidity  of  its  fruit,  and  is  said  to  answer 
the  end  of  feeding  silk-worms  very  well.  It  is  cultivated  like  every 
other  kind,  by  layers,  cuttings,  and  seed. 

The  white  mulberry  prospers  best  in  a  moist  rich  loam,  the  black, 
in  a  dry  sandy  soil,  and  the  red  in  a  mean  between  both  these  kinds. 

The  Morus  multicaulis.  Since  the  preceding  was  written  this  new 
variety  of  the  mulberry  has  been  introduced  to  the  attention  of  the 
American  public.  Its  introduction  marks  a  new  era  in  the  silk  his- 
tory of  the  United  States.  It  has  already  become  so  rapidly  and  ex- 
tensively known  that  little  more  need  be  said  upon  it  here  than  to 
remark  that  it  differs  from  the  other  varieties,  particularly  from  the 
white  or  Italian  mulberry,  in  the  luxuriance  with  which  it  sends  up 
its  "  many  stalks;"  the  increased  size  of  the  leaf,  and  the  small  por- 
tion of  refuse  left  by  the  worms  in  feeding.  It  also  is  distinguished 
by  its  foliage,  furnishing  food  for  the  worms  to  considerable  extent 
during  the  first  season  of  its  growth,  and  in  great  abundance  after 
the  second  and  third  year.  The  product  from  the  seed  is  so  uncer- 
tain, and  the  propagation  by  layers  and  cuttings  so  easy,  that  the 
preference  is  invariably  given  to  the  latter  mode  of  cultivation.  A 
good  rich  soil,  aided  by  compost  or  well  fermented  manure,  should 
be  chosen  when  the  planting  is  intended  simply  for  multiplying  the 
trees,  though  for  feeding  the  worms  the  preference  is  decidedly  in 
favor  of  a  foliage  grown  on  a  dry,  sandy  or  gravelly  loam,  the  latter 
furnishing  silk  of  a  better  quality,  with  less  risk  of  endangering  the 
life  of  the  worm.  As  to  the  particular  mode  of  cultivation,  it  is 
generally  conceded  to  be  as  simple  as  that  of  corn.  The  ground 
should  be  ploughed  in  the  fall,  and  again  in  the  spring. 

The  "  Silk  Worm"  a  valuable  periodical,  published  by  Mr. 
Thomas  C.  Clarke,  of  this  city,  and  devoted  to  the  advancement  of 
this  rapidly  increasing  business,  furnishes  the  following  directions  for 
planting,  which  we  find  corroborated  by  other  writers  on  this  sub- 
ject, as  well  as  by  practical  cultivators. 

"  There  are  four  methods  of  planting  these  trees.  1st,  by  bud- 
ding under  glass ;  2d,  by  cuttings  laid  out  at  the  usual  season ;  3d, 
by  layers  of  whole  trees ;  and  4th,  by  layers  of  sections  or  parts  of 
trees. 

"  The  cuttings  should  always  be  made  at  least  with  one  bud,  and 
that  within  a  quarter  to  half  an  inch  of  the  end  intended  to  be  next 
the  surface.  When  they  are  budded,  there  should  be  a  box  made 
about  two  feet  on  the  back  and  eighteen  inches  in  front,  covered 
with  glass  lids  with  hinges  of  iron  or  leather,  so  that  they  may  be 
aired.  This  box  should  be  filled  two-thirds  full  with  rich  mould,  or 
mould  enriched  with  well-rotted  manure.  The  cuttings  should  be 
inserted  in  this  in  a  sloping  direction  at  an  angle  of  45°,  the  upper 
end  towards  the  north,  the  bud  below  the  surface  half  an  inch,  and 
the  whole  box  towards  the  south.  The  cuttings  should  be  from  a 
quarter  to  half  an  inch  apart,  so  that  the  mould  may  be  all  around 


MARCH}  THE  NURSERY,  297 

each  cutting.  They  should  be  placed  in  this  position  about  the  1st 
of  March,  and  let  remain  to  the  15th  or  20th  of  May.  The  late 
frosts  should  be  all  over  when  removed,  and  they  should  be  placed  in 
well  prepared  soil  with  a  trowel  dibble,  the  soil  pressed  well  around 
them,  and  well  watered  if  the  weather  be  not  rainy.  The  planting 
of  these  should,  if  possible,  be  done  in  rainy  or  at  least  cloudy  wea- 
ther. 

"The  cuttings  of  the  second  method  should  be  inserted  in  the  soil 
without  dibble,  the  upper  end  to  be  about  one  inch  under  the  soil,  if 
the  mould  be  loose,  or  even  with  the  soil  if  the  mould  be  stubborn. 
When  they  come  up  an  inch  or  two,  let  the  hoe  draw  carefully  mould 
around  them. 

"  By  the  third  method,  the  ground  is  prepared  as  for  corn,  well 
broken  with  the  harrow,  and  if  necessary,  the  roller ;  and  let  a  cul- 
tivator be  run  with  one  horse,  from  three  to  four  feet,  in  parallel  lines, 
forming  a  furrow  as  for  corn. 

"  The  trees  are  laid  horizontally,  the  root  of  one  to  the  top  of 
another  from  one  end  of  the  row  to  another,  the  root  laid  deeper 
than  the  tree,  and  let  the  hoe  cover  them  about  one  or  one  and  a 
half  inches. 

"The  fourth  method  is  by  cutting  a  tree  up  into  pieces  of  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches,  and  laying  them  in  the  furrow,  prepared  as 
in  the  last  method,  so  as  to  leave  a  space  between  each  piece  equal  to 
the  length  of  the  cutting." 

THE  PAPER  MULBERRY,  AND  METHOD  OP  MAKING  PAPER  OF 
ITS  BARK. 

The  Morns  papyrtfera,  or  paper  mulberry.  This  tree  makes  very 
strong  vigorous  shoots,  but  seems  not  to  be  of  tall  growth;  it  drives 
up  an  abundance  of  suckers  from  the  roots,  by  which  it  is  easily  pro- 
pagated. The  leaves  are  large,  some  of  them  entire,  others  cut  into 
two,  three,  or  four  lobes,  sporting  themselves  into  various  forms,  and 
scarcely  two  to  be  found  alike  on  the  same  tree,  especially  while 
young;  they  are  of  a  dark  green,  and  rough  to  the  touch  on  the 
upper  surface,  but  pale  green  and  somewhat  hairy  on  the  under  side, 
falling  off  on  the  first  approach  of  frost  in  autumn.  Their  fruit  is 
little  larger  than  peas,  surrounded  with  long  purplish  hairs,  when 
ripe  changing  to  a  black  purple  color,  and  full  of  sweet  juice. 

It  is  a  native  of  Japan  and  the  South  Sea  Islands ;  and  according 
to  Mr.  Miller,  of  China  and  South  Carolina,  whence  he  received  the 
seeds.  The  inhabitants  of  Japan  have,  for  ages,  been  in  the  habit 
of  making  paper  from  its  bark  :  they  cultivate  the  trees  for  this 
purpose,  on  the  mountains,  much  in  the  same  manner  as  we  do 
osiers,  cutting  them  all  down  for  use  every  autumn  after  the  leaves 
are  fallen. 

The  finest  and  whitest  cloth  worn  by  the  principal  people  at 
Otaheite  and  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  is  made  of  the  bark  of  this 
tree;  which  they  frequently  dye  red.  The  bread  fruit-tree  makes  a 
cloth  inferior  in  whiteness  and  softness,  worn  there  chiefly  by  the 
common  people. 


298  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

Paper  making  having  a  connection  in  this  instance  with  objects  of 
my  attention,  and  the  probable  use  it  may  be  of  to  the  community, 
induces  me  to  give  additional  publicity  to  the  following  method  of 
manufacturing  it  from  the  bark  of  the  paper  mulberry-tree;  the  more 
especially  as  such  has  been  attempted  last  year,  and  with  good  success, 
by  the  laudable  exertions  of  Mr.  William  Young,  proprietor  of  the 
Brandywine  paper-mills,  in  the  State  of  Delaware.  It  is  extracted 
from  Martyn's  edition  of  Miller's  Gardener's  Dictionary,  and  quoted 
by  him  from  Keemfer.  I  am  not  certain  what  kind  of  mulberry  Mr. 
Young  had  used  for  that  purpose,  nor  whether  it  was  the  bark  of  the 
roots  or  branches  he  manufactured,  but  some  of  the  paper  I  had  seen 
printed  on,  and  it  promised  well.  It  is  very  probable  that  either 
species  might  be  manufactured  into  paper,  but  I  am  induced  to  think 
that  the  paper  mulberry,  from  the  vigorous  growth  of  its  young  shoots, 
is  more  likely  to  answer  the  end  than  any  other. 

"The  young  shoots  being  cut  down  in  autumn  after  the  leaves  are 
fallen  and  divided  into  rods  of  three  feet  in  length,  or  shorter,  are 
gathered  into  bundles  to  be  boiled.  If  the  shoots  are  dry,  they  must 
be  softened  in  water  twenty-four  hours.  The  bundles  are  bound  very 
close  together,  and  placed  erect  in  a  large  copper,  properly  closed : 
the  boiling  is  continued  till  the  separation  of  the  bark  displays  the 
naked  wood.  Then  the  stalks  are  loosed  out  of  the  bundles  and 
allowed  to  cool;  after  which,  by  a  longitudinal  incision,  the  bark  is 
stripped  off  and  dried,  the  wood  being  rejected.  When  this  bark  is 
to  be  purified,  it  is  put  three  or  four  hours  in  water,  when  being  suffi- 
ciently softened,  the  cuticle,  which  is  of  a  dark  color,  together  with 
the  greenish  surface  of  the  inner  bark,  is  pared  off.  At  the  same 
time  the  stronger  bark  is  separated  from  the  more  tender,  the  former 
making  the  whitest  and  best  paper;  the  latter  a  dark,  weak  and  in- 
ferior kind.  If  any  bark  appears  that  is  old,  it  is  set  aside  for  a 
thicker  paper  of  worse  quality.  Into  this  last  class  they  throw  the 
knotty  parts  of  the  bark,  and  those  which  have  any  fault  or  blemish. 

"The  bark  is  now  boiled  in  a  lye  that  is  clear  and  strained ;  care 
being  taken  to  stir  the  substance  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil  with  a 
strong  reed,  and  to  pour  in  of  the  lye  gradually  as  much  as  is  ne- 
cessary for  stopping  the  evaporation  and  restoring  the  liquor  that 
is  lost. 

"  The  boiling  is  to  cease  when  the  materials  can  be  split  by  a  slight 
touch  of  the  finger  into  fibres  and  down. 

"Next  it  is  to  be  washed,  which  is  a  thing  of  some  moment;  for 
if  washed  too  short  a  time,  the  paper  will  be  strong  indeed,  but  too 
rough,  and  of  an  inferior  quality;  if  too  long,  it  will  be  whiter,  but 
of  a  fat  consistence,  and  less  fit  for  writing.  Being  sufficiently  washed, 
the  materials  are  put  upon  a  thick,  smooth,  wooden  table,  and  stoutly 
beat  by  two  or  three  men,  with  battons  of  hard  wood,  into  a  pulp, 
which  being  put  in  water,  separates  like  grains  of  meal.  Thus  pre- 
pared, it  is  put  into  a  narrow  vat;  an  infusion  of  rice,. and  a  mucous 
water  of  the  infusion  of  the  root  of  Manihot  being  added  to  it. 
These  three  are  to  be  stirred  with  a  clean  slender  reed,  till  reduced 
into  a  homogeneous  liquor  of  a  due  consistence.  The  prepared  liquor 
is  now  put  into  a  larger  vat,  from  whence  the  sheets  are  poured  out 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERF.  299 

one  by  one,  and  placed  in  heaps  upon  a  table,  covered  with  a  double 
mat;  a  small  thread  of  reed  being  placed  between  the  sheets  at  the 
edge,  and  projecting  a  little,  so  that  they  may  be  taken  up  singly 
when  wanted;  the  heaps  are  covered  with  a  plank  of  wood  the  size 
of  the  paper,  upon  which  stones  are  put,  at  first  of  a  light  weight, 
but  afterwards  heavier,  that  all  the  wet  may  be  pressed  out  by  de- 
grees. The  following  day,  the  weights  being  removed,  each  sheet  is 
taken  up  by  itself,  and  the  operation  is  finished/' 

The  preceding  is  the  process  employed  by  the  Japanese,  and  whe- 
ther we  regard  the  expedition  or  labor,  or  the  quantity  and  quality 
of  the  product,  it  seems  to  admit  of  much  improvement. 

Instead  of  reducing  the  subject  to  a  pulp  by  battons,  in  the  man- 
ner above  described,  that  might  be  done  more  effectually  by  grinding 
it,  in  the  way  practised  with  rags. 

The  color  might  be  rendered  as  elegantly  white  as  that  of  any 
other  substance,  by  means  of  an  immersion,  first  in  oxygenated  muri- 
atic acid,  afterwards  in  a  solution  of  alkali,  and  finally,  washing  it  in 
pure  water.  By  these  means  it  is  probable  that  the  portions  thrown 
aside  for  paper  of  inferior  qualities,  might  be  wrought  into  that  of 
prime  excellence. 

The  decoction  of  rice  and  of  the  root  of  Manihot,  can  have  no 
possible  advantage  over  the  size  commonly  used  for  giving  to  the 
paper  the  necessary  firmness  and  texture. 

THE  CALABRIAN  OR  MANNA  ASH. 

There  are  two  particular  species  of  ash,  from  which  that  useful 
drug  called  manna  is  collected,  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples,  &c.,  and 
which  might  be  cultivated  in  the  southern  States  to  advantage ; 
therefore  I  am  induced  to  give  some  account  of  them. 

1.  The  Fraxinus  ornus,  or  flowering  ash,  which  is  the  principal 
kind  cultivated  for  manna.     The  leaflets  are  ovate-oblong,  serrate, 
petioled ;  flowers  with  petals. 

2.  The  Fraxinus  rotundifolia,  or  round-leaved  ash,  which  also 
produces  it,  but  not  in  as  great  quantities  as  the  former.     Leaflets 
roundish,  acutish,  doubly  serrate,  subsessile;  flowers  with    petals. 
Both  these  kinds  may  be  raised  from  seeds  as  directed  on  page  283, 
or  by  grafting  or  budding  them  on  any  other  species  of  ash.     They 
are  natives  of  Italy,  Sicily,  and  the  southern  parts  of  Europe. 

They  also  cultivate  in  Sicily  the  Fraxinus  excelsior,  or  common 
European  ash,  for  that  purpose ;  which  induces  me  to  think,  that  if 
the  above  kinds  were  grafted  low,  on  any  of  our  American  species, 
it  would  not  prevent  their  yielding  as  good  manna  as  if  established 
on  their  own  roots.  Doctor  Cullen  supposes  "  manna  to  be  a  part  of 
the  sugar  so  universally  present  in  vegetables,  and  which  exudes  on 
the  surface  of  a  great  number  of  them."  The  qualities  of  th.ese  ex- 
udations he  thinks  are  "  very  little,  if  any,  different."  The  princi- 
pal trees  known  to  produce  these  mannas,  in  different  climates  and 
seasons,  are  the  larch,  orange,  walnut,  willow  mulberry,  and  some 
different  kinds  of  oak ;  which  latter  are  found  growing  between  Mer- 
din  and  Diarbecker,  and  also  in  Persia  near  Khounsar. 


300  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

In  Sicily,  the  three  species  above  mentioned,  with  the  view  of  ob- 
taining manna  from  them,  but  more  particularly  the  first,  are  planted 
on  the  declivities  of  hills,  having  eastern  aspects.  After  ten  years' 
growth  the  trees  first  begin  to  yield  manna,  but  they  require  to  be 
much  older  before  they  afford  it  in  any  considerable  quantity.  Al- 
though the  manna  exudes  spontaneously  from  the  trunks  and 
branches,  yet  in  order  to  obtain  it  more  copiously,  incisions  are  made 
through  the  bark,  by  means  of  a  sharp  crooked  instrument,  a  slice 
of  which  is  taken  off,  about  three  inches  in  length  and  two  in  breadth; 
they  leave  the  wounds  open,  and  by  degrees  the  manna  runs  out. 
The  season  thought  to  be  most  favorable  for  instituting  this  process, 
is  a  little  before  the  dog-days  commence,  when  the  weather  is  dry 
and  serene.  The  incisions  are  first  made  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
trunk,  and  repeated  at  the  distance  of  an  inch  or  two  from  the  for- 
mer wound,  still  extending  them  upwards  as  far  as  the  branches,  and 
confining  them  to  one  side  of  the  tree,  the  other  side  being  reserved 
till  the  year  following,  when  it  undergoes  the  same  treatment.  On 
making  these,  a  thick  white  juice  immediately  begins  to  flow,  which 
gradually  hardens  on  the  bark,  and  in  the  course  of  eight  days  ac- 
quires the  consistence  and  appearance  in  which  the  manna  is  imported, 
when  it  is  collected  in  baskets  and  afterwards  packed  in  large  chests. 
Sometimes  the  manna  flows  in  such  abundance  from  the  incisions, 
that  it  runs  upon  the  ground,  by  which  it  becomes  mixed  with  vari- 
ous impurities,  unless  prevented,  which  is  commonly  attempted  by 
interposing  large  concave  leaves,  stones,  chips  of  wood,  &c.  The 
business  of  collecting  it,  generally  terminates  in  those  countries  in 
September,  when  the  rainy  season  sets  in. 

That  manna  is  got  in  quantities  on  the  leaves  of  trees,  is  an 
opinion  taken  from  the  doctrine  of  the  ancients,  and  received  as  in- 
contestible  without  consulting  nature ;  for  all  those  who  are  employed 
in  the  gathering  of  it,  know  of  none  that  comes  from  the  leaves ; 
therefore,  that  with  which  the  Israelites  were  so  peculiarly  favored, 
could  only  have  been  produced  through  miraculous  means,  and  is 
consequently  out  of  the  province  of  the  naturalist.  The  best  manna 
is  what  exudes  from  the  tree  very  slowly,  and  is  collected  clean ;  this 
is  always  more  dry,  transparent,  and  pure,  for  when  it  flows  copiously 
it  concretes  into  a  coarse,  brown,  unctuous  mass. 

METHODS   OF  PROPAGATING  TREES   AND   SHRUBS  BY  LAYERS. 

There  are  few  trees  or  shrubs,  if  any,  but  may  be  increased  in 
this  way.  The  nursery  gardeners  who  want  to  propagate  large  quan- 
tities of  various  hardy  kinds,  of  which  they  cannot  easily  procure 
seeds,  and  which  by  experience  they  do  not  find  to  grow  freely  by 
cuttings,  establish  what  they  call  stools,  of  the  different  kinds  in- 
tended to  be  propagated,  particularly  of  the  deciduous  tribe,  and  also 
some  evergreens.  For  this  purpose  they  plant  in  different  quarters, 
stout,  healthy  plants,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  feet  from  one 
another  every  way,  and  head  them  down;  these  throw  out  near  the 
earth  a  number  of  young  shoots,  some  of  which  may  be  laid  in  the 
autumn  or  spring  following;  these  stools,  as  they  are  commonly 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  301 

called,  continue  for  many  years,  always  laying  down  the  shoots  of 
the  last  season,  and  every  year  successively  they  produce  abundance 
for  the  ensuing  year's  laying,  still  taking  them  off  either  in  autumn 
or  spring  as  they  become  well  rooted.  The  elm,  linden,  mulberry, 
and  maple,  do  extremely  well  in  this  way,  but  it  is  seldom  practised 
on  any  of  the  pine  family.  The  far  greater  number  of  kinds  will  be 
well  rooted  and  fit  to  take  off  in  one  year  after  laying,  some  not  till 
the  second,  and  others  not  until  the  third  year ;  but  the  latter  are 
very  few. 

The  ground  in  these  quarters  should  always  be  kept  free  from 
weeds,  be  manured  occasionally,  and  dug  every  autumn  and  spring, 
being  careful  not  to  disturb  the  layers. 

After  the  layers  are  taken  up,  the  stools  must  have  all  the  wounded 
parts  taken  away,  and  any  old  branches  cut  off  pretty  close  to  the 
stems,  the  next  season  these  will  produce  new  shoots,  which  may  be 
laid  the  autumn  or  spring  following. 

The  best  season  for  laying  all  the  kinds  that  do  not  root  freely,  is 
autumn,  and  the  young  shoots  of  the  preceding  summer's  growth, 
should  be  preferred  ;  these  should  be  tongued  as  hereafter  directed. 
The  free  rooting  kinds  may  be  laid  either  in  autumn  or  spring,  as 
convenient. 

Though  branches  may  be  laid  at  any  time,  yet  the  best  season  for 
laying  hardy  trees,  that  shed  their  leaves,  is  October  or  November ; 
for  such  as  are  tender  early  in  March ;  evergreens  may  either  be  laid 
at  the  latter  period  or  in  June  or  July. 

When  the  branches  or  twigs  cannot  be  bent  down  into  the  ground 
lay  them  in  boxes  or  pots,  filled  with  good  earth  and  elevated  to  the 
necessary  places  by  blocks,  tressels,  or  benches.  Too  much  of  the 
head  of  the  layers  must  not  be  left  on,  and  the  smaller,  the  less 
should  be  left  out  of  the  ground,  except  they  are  twigs  of  the  former 
year's  growth,  and  intended  for  timber  trees,  in  which  case  they 
should  not  be  topped. 

Many  trees  and  plants  will  not  put  out  roots  from  old  wood 
branches ;  yet  if  the  young  shoots  of  the  same  year  be  laid  in  July, 
they  will  often  root  very  freely ;  but  as  those  shoots  will  be  soft  and 
pithy,  they  must  not  have  too  much  wet,  which  would  cause  them  to 
rot ;  cover,  therefore,  the  surface  of  the  ground  with  moss,  which 
will  prevent  its  drying  too  fast,  and  a  little  water  will  suffice. 

In  many  kinds  of  the  young  shoots  of  the  same  year,  if  laid  in 
June  or  July,  they  will  be  well  rooted  by  the  November  or  spring 
following,  and  may  then  be  taken  off. 

When  layers  are  to  be  made  from  green-house  shrubs,  or  other 
plants  in  pots,  the  laying  should  be  generally  performed  either  in 
their  own  pots,  or  in  others  placed  convenient  for  that  purpose. 

Sometimes  the  branches  of  trees  are  so  inflexible  as  not  to  be  easily 
brought  down  for  laying,  in  which  case  they  must  be  half  cut 
through,  as  practised  in  plashing  hedges,  and  by  that  means  brought 
down ;  or  when  they  are  got  too  old  for  plashing,  or  the  nature  of 
the  wood  will  not  bear  that  operation,  they  may  be  thrown  down  on 
one  side,  by  opening  the  earth  and  loosening  or  cutting  the  roots  on 
the  opposite. 


302  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

There  are  several  methods  of  performing  this  operation. 

1.  Having  well  dug  the  ground  and  made  it  very  light,  take  some 
of  the  most  flexible  and  free-growing  shoots,  and  lay  them  into  it 
about  six  inches  deep,  pegging  them  down  with  hooked  sticks  if 
necessary,  leaving  the  end  of  the  layer  a  foot  or  a  foot  and  a  half,  or 
more  if  the  twig  be  young  and  healthy,  out  of  the  ground,  with  its 
head  as  erect  as  possible ;  keep  them  moist  during  the  summer  sea- 
son, and  if  of  a  free  rooting  kind,  they  will  take  root  and  be  fit  to  be 
taken  off  and  removed  in  the  autumn  or  spring  following,  if  not, 
they  must  remain  another  season. 

2.  Tie  a  piece  of  wire  tight  around  the  bark  of  the  layer,  at  the 
place  you  intend  to  lay  in  the  ground,  and  half  an  inch  below  a  bud ; 
twist  the  ends  of  the  wire  so  that  they  may  not  untie,  as  the  shoot 
swells,  prick  the  parts  above  and  below  the  wire  v  ith  an  awl  in  seve- 
ral places,  and  then  lay  it  in  the  ground  as  before  directed.     This 
method  will  succeed  when  the  other  fails. 

3.  Slit  the  shoot  underneath  a  joint  or  bud  up  the  middle,  and 
about  an  inch  long,  or  a  little  better,  according  to  the  size  and  nature 
of  the  layer,  forming  a  sort  of  tongue,  nearly  the  same  as  directed 
for  carnation  layers ;  laying  that  part  in  the  earth  and  raising  the 
top  upright,  so  as  thereby  to  separate  the  tongue  of  the  slit  from  the 
other  part  and  keep  it  open ;  then  apply  the  earth  as  before.     This 
is  the  most  universally  practised  and  successful  mode,  when  any  pre- 
paration of  the  shoot  is  necessary  to  promote  its  rooting. 

4.  Twist  the  part  of  the  branch  intended  to  be  layed  in  the  earth 
as  you  would  a  willow  twig,  this  greatly  facilitates  the  emission  of 
fibres,  and  layers  of  numerous  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  forwarded 
exceedingly  in  rooting  by  this  method. 

5.  Cut  the  bark  nearly  all  around,  a  little  below  a  joint  or  bud, 
taking  out  small  chips  thereof  in  several  places  below  the  cut,  and 
lay  that  part  in  the  earth.     Some  sorts  will  root  more  freely  by  this 
than  any  other  mode. 

6.  Thrust  an  awl  through  a  shoot  at  a  joint  in  several  places,  lay- 
ing that  part  in  the  earth,  and  it  will  emit  fibres  from  the  wounds. 

After  laying,  in  either  of  the  above  methods,  there  is  no  particu- 
lar culture  necessary,  except  in  the  heat  of  summer  to  give  occa- 
sional waterings  to  keep  the  earth  moist  about  the  layers,  which  will 
greatly  promote  their  rooting,  and  which,  if  effected  the  first  season, 
they  should  be  taken  off  in  the  autumn  or  spring  following. 

ADDITIONAL  OBSERVATIONS   ON   PLANTING. 

Plants  are  always  most  prosperous  when  propagated  by  seed,  which 
is  nature's  favorite  method. 

Evergreen  plants  are  best  fit  for  transplanting  from  the  seed-beds 
into  nursery-rows  when  they  have  attained  the  height  of  from  four 
to  six  inches,  and  deciduous  kinds,  when  from  six  to  twelve  inches 
high. 

Layers  should  not  be  suffered  to  remain  on  the  mother  plants 
longer  than  until  sufficiently  rooted,  which  will  be  effected  by  some 


MARCH] 


THE  NURSERY. 


303 


in  six  or  seven  months,  if  laid  in  spring;  by  far  the  greater  number 
in  one  year,  and  by  others,  not  in  less  than  two  or  three. 

Tonguing  or  twisting  the  layers,  &c.,  is  necessary  for  such  kinds 
as  do  not  strike  freely,  but  not  for  those  that  do. 

All  kinds  of  seedlings  should  be  transplanted  in  spring,  the  de- 
ciduous earlier  than  the  evergreens. 

October  or  November  is  the  best  time  for  the  final  transplanting 
of  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees,  if  the  ground  in  which  they 
are  to  be  planted  is  dry,  and  not  subject  to  become  too  wet  in  winter; 
but  early  spring  planting  does  best  in  most  soils. 

Evergreens  of  every  kind  succeed  best  when  planted  in  spring, 
provided  it  be  done  to  each  respective  kind  immediately  before  its 
vegetation  commences. 

Watering  is  very  useful  when  given  in  small  quantities  and  fre- 
quently; but  the  reverse  when  in  large  quantities,  and  but  seldom. 

Every  kind  of  tree,  whether  deciduous  or  evergreen,  grows  to  a 
larger  size  when  finally  planted  out  at  the  age  of  four  years,  having 
remained  one  or  two  in  the  seed-bed,  and  two  or  three  in  the  nursery- 
rows,  than  at  any  other  subsequent  period. 

Walnuts,  oaks,  and  every  other  tree  that  has  a  tendency  to  drive 
down  perpendicular  or  to  tap  roots,  always  grow  to  larger  timber  when 
the  seeds  are  sown  where  intended  to  remain,  and  never  transplanted. 


PROTECTING  TREES  FROM  CATTLE. 

The  beauty  of  individual  specimens,  as  well  as  groups  of  trees,  is 
often  marred,  to  a  great  extent,  by  the  means  employed  to  protect 
them  from  cattle.     None  of  these 
are    more    objectionable    than    the  p.     29 

abomination  termed  a  crate.  Where 
such  heavy-looking  and  unsightly 
objects  are  thickly  placed,  as  they 
often  are,  the  effect  is  disagreeable 
in  the  extreme;  as  they  have  to  be 
endured  for  years,  any  substitute 
that  will  afford  equal  protection  with- 
out their  objectionable  appearance, 
should  be  readily  adopted. 

The  accompanying  sketch  illus- 
trates a  contrivance  which  combines 
both  support  and  protection  from 
cattle,  and  is  also  neat  in  appear- 
ance. This  fence  by  being  entirely 
below  the  eye,  is  very  little  seen, 
and  the  supports  of  the  tree,  being 
of  wire,  are  scarcely  to  be  distin- 
guished, except  upon  close  exami- 
nation. If  the  whole  were  of  iron, 
it  would,  of  course,  be  still  less  ob- 
jectionable, on  the  score  of  appear- 
ance. The  uprights  of  the  fence, 


304  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

as  given  in  the  sketch,  are  supposed  to  be  stout  piles,  six  in  number, 
driven  into  the  ground  at  an  angle  of  about  45°,  at  a  sufficient  distance 
from  the  tree  to  prevent  cattle  from  reaching  the  stem  or  branches. 
The  uprights  should  be  about  three  feet  six  inches  out  of  the  ground. 
They  are  connected  by  rails  placed  horizontally,  and  sufficiently  close 
to  prevent  sheep  from  getting  between  them.  From  the  tops  of 
three  or  four  of  these  uprights,  stout  wires  are  fixed,  the  upper  ends 
meeting  at  the  tree,  where  they  are  attached  to  a  collar,  which  should 
be  somewhat  larger  than  the  stem  it  is  to  surround ;  the  intervening 
space  is  then  to  be  filled  with  leaves,  hay,  or  moss,  and  properly 
secured,  to  prevent  damage  to  the  bark.  These  wire  supports  are,  of 
course,  only  required  when  the  tree  is  newly  planted;  by  employing 
them,  stakes — which  are  rarely  effective  and  always  objectionable  in 
appearance — are  entirely  dispensed  with. 

PROPAGATION  OP  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  BY  CUTTINGS. 

Various  trees  and  shrubs  may  be.  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  this 
month,  especially  in  the  middle  States,  is  a  good  time  for  planting 
all  the  hardy  deciduous  and  evergreen  kinds  that  grow  in  that  way, 
observing  to  plant  the  former  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  and  the 
latter  towards  the  end  of  it. 

When  you  intend  to  propagate  trees  for  timber,  or  for  a  tall  state- 
ly growth,  be  particular  never  to  take  the  cuttings  from  horizontal 
branches,  for  they  will  never  have  an  inclination  to  grow  in  a  spread- 
ing manner;  always  make  choice  of  perpendicular  shoots,  and  par- 
ticularly those  that  terminate  the  branches ;  these  will  most  certainly 
produce  the  straightest  and  handsomest  trees,  and  be  little  inferior 
to  those  raised  from  seed ;  of  this  I  have  had  ample  experience,  and 
found  it  uniformly  to  be  the  case. 

But  when  you  intend  the  plants  for  hedges,  wildernesses,  or  thick- 
ets, the  same  precaution  is  not  necessary ;  though  in  propagating  any 
kinds  of  erect-growing  shrubs  for  detached  plants  in  the  pleasure 
garden,  I  would  recommend  it,  as  they  will  be  less  subject  to  spread 
and  injure  other  herbaceous  flowering  plants  growing  near  them. 

Large  shoots  cut  into  lengths,  are  often  used,  and  will  do  tolerably 
well,  provided  they  are  selected  as  above;  but  I  would  ever  prefer 
what  gardeners  term  cock-shoots,  or  those  retaining  the  terminating 
buds.  The  soft  and  pithy  sorts  will  succeed  better  with  having  an 
inch  or  two  of  the  former  year's  wood  annexed  to  the  cuttings,  but 
all  the  hard  wooded  kinds  are  much  better  without  it. 

For  this  purpose  dig  one  or  more  beds  or  shady  borders,  &c.,  where 
the  ground  is  somewhat  mellow  and  not  wet ;  let  the  earth  be  well 
broken  with  the  spade,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth. 

Take  off  the  cuttings  with  your  knife  from  the  trees  or  shrubs  that 
you  want  to  increase ;  let  them  be  of  the  last  summer's  shoots,  cut- 
ting them  off  from  about  six  or  eight  to  ten  or  fifteen  inches  long, 
according  as  they  may  occur  in  the  different  sorts  of  trees,  &c. ;  plant 
them  in  rows,  each  cutting  about  half  or  two-thirds  of  its  length  into 
the  ground;  close  the  earth  well  about  them,  and  in  dry  weather  let 
them  be  occasionally  watered. 


MARCH]  THE  NURSERY.  305 

The  tacamahaca,  white,  black,  trembling;  Lombardy,  Canada, 
Athenian,  Carolina,  heart-leaved,  smooth-leaved,  and  various  leaved 
poplars,  and  all  the  varieties  of  willow  may  be  propagated  in  this 
way ;  also,  the  plane-tree,  tupelo-tree,  mulberry,  and  alder ;  with  the 
sea  buckthorn,  elder,  tamarisk,  some  kinds  of  solanum,  honeysuckles, 
diervilla,  privet,  trumpet-flower,  virgin' s-bower,  Carolina  kidney  bean- 
tree,  passion  flower,  jasmine,  periploca,  jew,  juniper,  savin,  arbor- vitae, 
Portugal  and  English  laurels,  and  immense  numbers  of  other  trees 
and  shrubs. 

Cuttings  of  all  sorts  planted  a  year  ago,  and  that  are  well  rooted, 
may  now  be  transplanted  or  quartered  out  into  open  nursery  rows, 
to  advance  in  proper  growth,  and  to  have  occasional  training  for  the 
purposes  intended. 

GRAFTING  FOREST  TREES  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time  to  graft  the  vari- 
ous kinds  of  forest  trees  and  flowering  and  ornamental  shrubs  which, 
you  mean  to  propagate  in  that  way ;  such  as  elms,  ash,  oaks,  hollies 
of  various  kinds,  robinias,  double-flowering  thorns,  altheas  and 
cherries,  &c.  There  are  very  few  hard-wooded  plants  but  will  take 
in  this  way  when  grafted  on  stocks  of  their  own  families,  and  indeed 
there  are  many  instances  of  plants  taking  on  stocks  of  a  different 
genus,  as  the  pear  on  the  white  thorn,  the  peach  on  the  plum,  &c.  &c. 

TRANSPLANTING  YOUNG  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

All  hardy  kinds  of  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  may  now  be  trans- 
planted, either  into  nursery  rows,  or  finally  where  intended  to  remain; 
always  observing  to  do  this  in  mild  weather,  and  when  the  ground 
works  freely  and  is  in  a  good  condition  to  receive  them.  In  the 
middle,  and  particularly  in  the  eastern  States,  the  removal  of  ever- 
greens should  not  be  commenced  before  the  beginning  of  April,  and 
then  finished  towards  the  middle  of  that  month,  if  the  season  proves 
favorable.  Hollies  are  best  removed  towards  the  end  of  April. 

WEEDING  SEEDLING  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

Look  over  the  seed-beds  of  young  trees  and  shrubs:  if  weeds 
appear  on  them,  let  them  be  carefully  picked  out  by  hand  in  time 
before  they  mix  their  roots  with  those  of  the  plants. 

WATERING    SEEDLING  TREES,  ETC. 

In  dry,  warm  weather,  it  will  be  proper  to  refresh  the  seed-beds  of 
small  young  trees  and  shrubs  with  water  now  and  then ;  a  little  at 
each  time  will  do;  let  this  be  done  early  in  the  morning. 

DIGGING  VACANT   GROUND,  ETC. 

All  requisite  digging  and  trenching  of  vacant  quarters  of  ground 
20 


306  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH 

in  the  nursery,  designed  for  plantations  of  young  trees,  shrubs,  &c., 
this  spring,  should  now  be  completed  as  soon  as  possible,  in  due  time 
for  the  reception  of  the  respective  plants  intended,  which,  in  the  de- 
ciduous kinds  particularly,  should  be  mostly  or  generally  finished  by 
the  middle  or  latter  end  of  this  month,  and  the  evergreens  soon  after 
that  time.  (See  April.) 

Finish  all  digging  between  the  rows  of  young  trees,  &c.,  in  this 
month  if  possible  ;  and  also  in  all  parts  where  planting  is  intended 
this  spring,  provided  that  the  ground  will  work  freely. 

PROPAGATING  GOOSEBERRIES  AND  CURRANTS. 

The  only  proper  method  of  propagating  gooseberries  and  currants, 
is  by  cuttings ;  suckers  should  never  be  resorted  to  except  in  cases  of 
necessity,  for  such  will  always  produce  others  numerously  from  their 
roots,  which  carry  off  the  nourishment  that  ought  to  go  to  the  sup- 
port of  the  fruit;  and  besides,  they  form  such  thickets  as  to  smother 
and  deprive  them  of  the  benefit  of  a  free  circulating  air. 

The  proper  cuttings  for  planting  are  the  shoots  of  the  last  sum- 
mer's production,  of  straight,  clean  growth ;  they  should  be  taken 
from  healthy  trees,  and  such  as  are  remarkable,  according  to  their 
kinds,  for  bearing  the  finest  fruit ;  let  each  be  shortened  from  about 
ten  to  twelve  or  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  long,  according  to  its 
strength. 

Previous  to  planting,  cut  off  every  bud  as  close  as  possible  to  the 
shoot,  except  three,  four,  or  five  near  the  top,  which  are  to  be  left  to 
form  the  head  of  the  plant.  Some  people  imagine  that  the  buds  on 
those  parts  inserted  in  the  earth  grow  into  roots,  which  is  by  no 
means  the  case,  nature  never  having  designed  them  for  such ;  the 
roots  or  fibres  always  strike  out  through  the  clean  and  smooth  bark, 
but  generally  a  little  below  a  bud,  and  sometimes  at  the  lower  ex- 
tremity of  the  cutting  from  between  the  bark  and  the  wood.  In 
some  kinds  these  buds  decay  and  die  away,  but  in  gooseberries  and 
currants  they  always  rise  in  suckers,  and  from  these  others  innume- 
rably, which  always  rob  the  fruit,  and  often  render  even  the  best 
kinds  not  worth  their  room  in  the  garden. 

Your  cuttings  being  thus  prepared,  plant  them  in  rows  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet  asunder,  and  about  eight  or  nine  inches  apart  in 
the  rows,  always  inserting  them  at  least  six  inches  into  the  earth, 
3,nd  if  the  shoots  are  sufficiently  long,  eight  or  nine,  leaving  from 
"four  to  ten  inches,  according  to  circumstances,  of  a  clean  stem  be- 
tween the  surface  earth  and  lowest  left  bud,  upon  which  to  establish 
the  head.  Having  had  one  or  two  years'  growth  in  these  rows,  they 
may  be  planted  out  either  in  autumn  or  early  in  spring,  where  in- 
tended for  fruiting,  but  autumn  is  the  most  preferable  season. 

G-ooseberries,  of  all  other  fruit-trees,  require  the  richest  soil. 
The  situation  should  neither  be  too  high  nor  too  low,  nor  the  soil 
much  inclined  to  gravel  or  sand,  a  deep  rich  loam  is  their  favorite. 
Where  this  fruit  is  expected  in  the  best  perfection,  the  ground  be- 
•tween  and  about  the  trees  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  dug 
every  spring  and  autumn,  and  strongly  manured  once  a  year  with 


MARCH]  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN.  SOT 

old  well-rotted  cow-dung;  they  must  be  judiciously  pruned,  and  each 
tree  kept  to  a  single  stem,  without  any  suckers,  which  must  be  dug 
up  or  stripped  off  whenever  such  appear.  But  all  the  culture  oil 
earth  will  not  produce  good  fruit  unless  you  have  good  kinds,  for 
there  are  crab  gooseberries  as  well  as  crab  apples,  and  as  great  a 
variety  of  the  one  kind  of  fruit  as  of  the  other. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

HYACINTHS. 

The  choice  kinds  of  hyacinths  should  now  be  protected  from  se- 
vere frost,  for  if  permitted  to  penetrate  so  far  into  the  soil  as  to  reach 
the  bulbs,  especially  about  the  time  that  the  plants  begin  to  appear 
above  ground,  it  will  produce  a  singular  effect,  by  causing  some  of 
them  to  shoot  forth  or  discharge  their  stems  or  blossoms ;  but  if  at 
this  time  the  roots  become  entirely  frozen  they  are  in  danger  of 
being  destroyed,  or  at  least  so  weakened  as  to  produce  but  indifferent 
flowers. 

TULIPS. 

When  your  choice  tulips  appear  above  ground,  if  on  examination 
any  distemper  or  canker  is  discernible  on  the  foliage,  about  this 
time,  either  above  or  a  little  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  it  should 
be  carefully  cut  out  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  the  wounded  part  left 
exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  which  will  presently  heal  it :  a  fine  dry 
day  should  be  made  choice  of  for  the  foregoing  operation. 

If  the  surface  of  the  beds  appear  to  be  of  too  close  and  solid  a 
texture,  it  should  be  carefully  stirred  up,  about  two  inches  deep, 
which  will  admit  the  air  more  freely  to  the  stems,  give  vent  to  th^eir 
exudations,  and  encourage  their  growth. 

Should  the  weather  prove  extremely  severe,  a  slight  covering  of 
mats,  placed  on  arched  hoops  over  the  beds,  will  be  very  serviceable 
to  them.  But  this  care  or  attention  is  not  necessary  for  the  common 
kinds,  growing  promiscuously  in  the  borders,  &c. 

RANUNCULUSES  AND  ANEMONES. 

Continue  to  protect  your  choice  kinds  of  early  planted  ranuncu- 
luses and  anemones,  as  directed  on  page  168 ;  they  will  now  require 
particular  attention,  as  the  rudiments  of  their  flowers  will  be  ad- 
vancing, which  would  suffer  greatly  if  too  much  exposed  to  nipping 
frosts. 

Finish  planting  the  ranunculuses  and  anemones  that  are  yet  kept 
out  of  ground  for  a  successional  bloom,  which  is  to  be  done  agree- 
ably to  the  directions  given  in  October. 

Ranunculus  roots  will  lay  in  the  ground  sevora  1  days  after  plant- 


308  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH 

ing,  before  they  begin  to  vegetate ;  during  this  period  they  become 
very  much  swollen  by  imbibing  the  moisture  of  the  soil,  and  are  in 
this  state  extremely  susceptible  of  injury  from  frost,  much  more  so 
than  when  vegetation  has  actually  taken  place. 

As  soon  as  the  bed  is  planted,  if  hard  frosts  are  likely  to  ensue,  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  dry  straw  should  be  placed  near  it,  ready  for 
covering  when  necessity  requires,  which  should  be  kept  on  only  dur- 
ing severe  frosts,  or  such  as  would  be  likely  to  penetrate  to  the  roots, 
as  the  effects  of  covering  too  long  or  too  much  would  be  as  destruc- 
tive as  the  reverse,  by  causing  the  roots  to  become  mouldy,  than 
which  nothing  can  be  more  prejudicial. 

Anemones  are  somewhat  hardier  than  ranunculuses,  and  therefore 
do  not  require  so  particular  care,  but  if  such  is  afforded  them,  it  will 
cause  them  to  blow  in  greater  perfection. 

PLANTING  BULBS   OF  VARIOUS   KINDS. 

As*  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  finish  planting  all  your  hardy 
kinds  of  bulbous  roots,  such  as  hyacinths,  tulips,  polyanthus-narcis- 
sus, jonquils,  star  of  Bethlehem,  &c.  &c.,  as  they  must  be  consider- 
ably weakened  by  being  kept  too  long  unplanted,  observe  the  direc- 
tions given  on  pages  93  and  94,  under  the  article  tulips. 

AURICULAS. 

The  first  favorable  weather  that  occurs  in  this  month,  divest  the 
auricula  plants  of  their  exterior  decayed  leaves,  and  by  the  middle 
of  the  month,  the  operation  of  earthing  up,  as  it  is  termed,  should 
commence;  that  is  to  say,  the  surface  earth  of  the  pot  should  be 
taken  away  about  one  inch  deep,  and  fresh  compost,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  a  little  loam,  should  be  substituted  in  its  stead :  this  will  con- 
tribute greatly  to  the  strength  of  the  plants  and  the  vigor  of  their 
bloom ;  at  the  same  time  it  will  afford  a  favorable  opportunity  to  sepa- 
rate such  offsets  as  shall  appear  possessed  of  a  sufficiency  of  fibres  to 
be  taken  off  at  this  early  season  :  these  offsets,  when  properly  planted 
in  small  pots,  should  be  placed  in  a  frame,  in  some  warm  sheltered 
situation,  till  their  roots  are  established. 

The  fine  auriculas  should  now  be  protected  from  very  severe  frost, 
cold  cutting  winds,  or  excessive  rains,  for  these  would  injure  them 
and  prevent  their  blowing  in  good  perfection ;  but  they  must  have 
plenty  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and  not  be  debarred  from  warm  mode- 
rate showers  of  rain,  which  will  now  prove  beneficial. 

When  the  weather  proves  very  dry,  let  them  be  refreshed  mode- 
rately with  water,  just  to  keep  the  earth  a  little  moist  about  their 
roots,  but  too  much  would  materially  injure  them.  For  their  fur- 
ther treatment  see  next  month,  &c. 

SOWING  AURICULA  AND  POLYANTHUS   SEEDS. 

If  yon  have  neglected  last  month  to  sow  auricula  and  polyanthus 
seeds,  to  raise  new  varieties,  sow  them  as  early  as  possible  in  this, 
agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on  page  176. 


MAKCH]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  809 


CARNATIONS. 

Being  provided  with  some  of  the  finest  and  most  valuable  carna- 
tions, for  with  the  common  sorts  it  will  not  be  worth  while  to  take 
much  pains,  you  should  proceed  to  the  potting  of  them  between  the 
middle  and  latter  end  of  this  month. 

The  proper  compost  for  these  flowers  is  as  follows,  viz : — 

One-half  fresh,  sound,  loamy  earth,  taken  from  the  surface  of  a 
rich  pasture  ground,  turf  and  all,  and  not  more  than  four  or  five 
inches  deep. 

One-third,  or  a  little  more,  of  old  horse-dung,  such  as  had  been 
a  year  previously  used  for  hot-beds. 

One-sixth  coarse  sea  or  river  sand. 

These  ingredients  ought  to  have  been  mixed  together  in  autumn, 
laid  in  a  heap  about  two  feet  thick,  in  an  open  exposure,  and  turned 
three  or  four  times  during  winter,  so  as  that  all  the  parts  may  be 
well  incorporated  and  have  the  benefit  of  the  frosts ;  early  in  March 
it  should  be  gathered  into  a  round  conical  heap  to  drain  and  become 
dry,  and  when  sufficiently  so,  and  wanted  for  use,  pass  it  through  a 
cqarse  screen  or  sieve  to  reduce  its  parts,  and  take  out  stones  or  any 
other  extraneous  substance  which  it  contains. 

The  pots  made  use  of  for  spring  potting,  should  b«  ten  inches  wide 
at  the  top,  five  inches  at  the  bottom,  and  eight  inches  deep  in  the 
side,  with  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  bottom  an  inch  in  diameter. 

The  pots  are  first  to  be  nearly  half  filled  with  compost,  previously 
placing  an  oyster-shell  or  such  like,  with  its  hollow  side  downwards, 
over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  each :  the  compost  is  to  be  higher  at 
the  sides  than  at  the  centre  of  the  pots,  and  the  plants  intended  for 
them,  which  are  supposed  to  have  been  wintered  in  small  pots  con- 
taining three  plants  each,  are  to  be  carefully  turned  out  with  the 
earth  adhering  to  them  in  a  ball ;  and  after  rubbing  off  half  an  inch 
of  the  surface  of  the  old  mould  around  the  plants,  above  their  fibres, 
cleaning  them  and  cutting  off  the  points  of  their  decayed  leaves,  the 
ball  is  to  be  carefully  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  pot,  and  the  space 
between  it  and  the  sides  filled  up  with  the  prepared  compost. 

If  your  plants  have  been  wintered  one  plant  in  each  pot  only,  a 
size  much  smaller  than  the  above  will  be  sufficient  to  shift  them  into, 
but  when  three  plants  grow  and  flower  together  in  a  large  pot,  they 
appear  to  more  advantage. 

This  being  done,  give  the  plants  a  little  water,  and  observe  that 
the  earth  comes  no  higher  up  their  stems  than  it  did  in  the  former 
pots,  nor  should  the  compost  come  nearer  than  within  an  inch  of  the 
top  of  the  rim,  after  it  has  been  gently  shaken  or  struck  against  the 
ground  in  finishing ;  as  an  inconvenience  will  attend  its  being  too  full 
when  the  operation  of  laying  comes  to  be  performed,  which  requires 
some  additional  mould  on  the  surface,  for  the  layers  to  strike  into. 

When  the  plants  are  thus  potted  off  for  bloom,  they  should  be 
placed  in  an  open  airy  part  of  the  garden  under  an  arch  of  hoops, 
that  in  case  of  cold  drying  winds,  heavy  rains,  or  cold  frosty  nights, 
mats  may  be  thrown  over,  to  preserve  them  from  the  effects  of  such 


310  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH 

unfavorable  weather.  In  this  situation  they  are  to  remain,  always 
open  to  the  air,  except  in  the  cases  above  mentioned,  and  be  kept 
regularly  watered  with  soft  water,  as  often  as  appears  necessary,  from 
a  fine  rosed  watering-pot.  For  their  further  treatment,  see  next 
month,  May,  &c. 

The  plants  which  were  planted  in  large  pots  last  autumn,  where 
they  are  to  remain  to  flower,  should  now  have  the  old  mould  taken 
out  as  near  to  their  roots  as  possible,  without  disturbing  them,  and 
replaced  with  fresh  compost,  after  which,  treat  them  as  above. 

The  common  carnations  in  beds,  borders,  &c.,  may  be  removed 
towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  and  planted  where  desired.* 

PINKS. 

The  culture  of  pinks  is  much  less  difficult  than  that  of  carnations ; 
they  are  hardier,  more  easily  propagated,  increase  more  abundantly, 
and  are  less  liable  to  incidental  casualties  than  the  latter. 

A  good  fresh  loamy  soil,  dug  and  well  pulverized,  about  twelve  or 
eighteen  inches  deep,  and  well  manured  and  mixed  with  cow-dung, 
two  years  old,  is  all  the  preparation  that  is  necessary  for  this  charm- 
ing flower. 

The  plants  designed  for  the  principal  bloom  should  be  planted 
where  intended  to  blow  in  September  or  early  in  October,  as  they  do 
not  flower  quite  so  well  if  removed  later  in  the  season;  they  should 
be  planted  at  about  the  distance  of  nine  inches  from  each  other,  and 
the  bed  should  be  laid  rather  convex  or  rounding,  to  throw  off  excess 
of  rain ;  but  will  require  only  a  slight  covering  or  protection  in  case 
of  frost;  and  this  only  for  the  superior  kinds. 

The  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  the  surface  stirred 
up  a  little  if  it  inclines  to  bind. 

They  may  also  be  propagated  now  freely,  by  slips  from  their  roots, 
or  removed  if  necessary.  If  desired  to  have  them  in  pots,  you  may 
pot  a  few  of  the  finest  kinds  as  directed  for  carnations. 

POLYANTHUSES. 

Your  finest  kinds  of  polyanthuses  and  double  primroses  may  be 
treated  in  every  respect  as  directed  for  auriculas,  if  desired  in  pots ; 
if  not,  they  may  be  removed  at  pleasure,  between  the  middle  and 
latter  end  of  this  month,  and  large  roots  divided  for  increase ;  but 
this  should  not  be  done  to  those  which  you  intend  to  flower  strongly, 
till  their  bloom  is  over,  immediately  after  which,  you  may  slip  them 
or  divide  their  roots.  They  are  impatient  of  heat  and  drought,  and 
love  the  reverse,  shade  and  moisture :  they  are  very  hardy,  and  sel- 
dom perish  except  by  the  summer  heats,  which  frequently  destroy 
them,  unless  the  necessary  precautions  are  taken. 

•  .  v.<:'/    -'I-;''*':  ',' '  'fl.^'.:  4  ,••'     ''s^'fi  • 'fitl'Viff f'k*  £  v.«H;~»j3 

*  The  Remontant,  or  Ever-blooming  Carnations,  are  now  become  indis- 
pensable in  the  flower  garden.     They  will  strike  readily  from  cuttings, 
and  should  be  propagated  afresh  each  season. 


. 
MARCH]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  311 

DOUBLE  DAISIES. 

These  beautiful  little  flowering  plants  may,  about  the  end  this 
month,  be  taken  from  the  winter  repositories  and  planted  for  edgings 
in  shady  borders;  for  if  planted  in  open  exposures,  the  summer  heat 
will  totally  destroy  them,  unless  they  are  removed  into  the  shade  as 
soon  as  their  first  bloom  is  over.  The  roots  may  now  be  separated 
for  increase,  as  every  shoot  of  them,  if  slipped  off,  will  root  freely. 
They  may  also  be  removed  into  pots  with  balls  of  earth  adhering  to 
their  roots,  where  they  will  blow  handsomely,  but  it  would  have  been 
better  if  they  were  planted  in  these  in  September  or  October. 

' 

GIVING  FRESH  EARTH  TO  VARIOUS  PLANTS  IN  POTS. 

Give  some  fresh  earth  to  the  pots  of  double  wall-flowers,  double 
stock  July  flowers,  double  sweet  williains,  rockets,  rose  campions, 
catchfly,  campanulas,  scarlet  lychnis,  and  such  like  plants,  which 
were  potted  last  autumn  or  before. 

In  doing  this,  clear  the  plants  first  from  decayed  leaves,  and  take 
some  of  the  earth  out  of  the  tops  of  the  pots,  but  not  too  deep  to  dis- 
turb the  roots  of  the  plants ;  then  fill  up  the  pots  again  with  fresh 
earth,  and  give  some  water;  this  will  strengthen  their  roots,  and  the 
plants  will  shoot  freely  and  produce  large  flowers. 

PRICKING  OUT  EARLY  ANNUALS. 

If  any  tender  annuals  were  sown  last  month,  such  as  cockscombs, 
tricolors,  Ipomoeas,  sensitive  plants,  ice  plants,  balsams,  &c.,  in  order 
to  have  them  in  perfection  at  an  earlier  period  than  common,  make  a 
new  hot-bed  towards  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  this,  in  which  to 
prick  them  to  forward  their  growth.  Let  the  hot-bed  be  about  thirty 
inches  high,  and  make  the  top  even;  then  set  on  the  frame;  and 
when  the  great  heat  is  over,  let  the  earth  be  put  in;  let  it  be  light, 
rich,  and  perfectly  dry,  and  lay  it  equally  over  the  bed  six  inches 
thick ;  when  warm,  prick  the  plants  therein  at  three  or  four  inches 
distant  each  way,  or  some  may  also  be  pricked  in  small  pots,  one 
good  plant  in  each,  and  plunged  in  the  earth  of  the  bed ;  giving  the 
whole  a  little  sprinkling  of  water;  then  let  the  glasses  be  put  on, 
observing  to  raise  them  behind  a  little  every  day  to  admit  air  and 
let  out  the  steam;  shade  the  plants  from  the  sun  till  they  have  taken 
fresh  root. 

When  they  are  rooted  and  begin  to  push,  they  should  have  fresh 
air  every  day ;  therefore  let  the  upper  ends  of  the  glasses  be  raised 
an  inch  or  two  or  three  in  height  to  admit  it ;  but  shut  them  down 
towards  the  evening,  and  cover  them  every  night  with  mats ;  remem- 
ber to  sprinkle  them  with  water  occasionally,  giving  but  a  little  at 
each  time. 

Keep  up  the  heat  of  the  bed  by  occasionally  lining  with  hot  dung. 
Thus  these  tender  annuals  are  to  be  continued  forwarding  in  growth 


312  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH 

till  May;  then,  when  the  frost  is  totally  gone,  finally  transplanted 
into  large  pots,  flower  borders,  &c. 

SOWING  TENDER  ANNUALS. 

A  hot-bed  may  be  made  the  beginning  or  any  time  this  month,  in 
which  to  sow  the  seeds  of  tender  annual  flowers,  such  as  the  ice  plant, 
sensitive  plant,  browallias,  &c. 

Make  the  bed  and  sow  the  seed  as  directed  in  last  month.  Or  a 
few  plants  may  be  raised  in  pots  in  any  cucumber  or  melon  hot-bed 
now  in  cultivation,  to  a  proper  size  for  transplanting.  (See  April.) 

The  plants  raised  from  the  above  sowings  will  blow  strong  and 
beautiful  in  May,  June,  July,  &c. 

Kemember  they  are  not  to  remain  in  the  hot-bed  where  raised,  but 
are  to  be  transplanted,  some  into  pots,  and  some  into  the  borders. 
(See  April  and  May.) 

SOWING  HARDY  ANNUAL  FLOWERS. 

Any  time  this  month  that  the  ground  is  in  good  condition,  you 
may  sow  in  the  borders  and  other  flower  compartments,  a  variety  of 
hardy  annuals,  such  as  large  and  dwarf  annual  sunflowers,  sweet  pea 
of  every  kind,  larkspur,  flos-adodis,  persicaria,  Tangier  peas,  Nigella, 
Venus's  looking-glass,  Venus' s  navelwort,  double  dwarf  poppy,  Lobel's 
catchfly,  dwarf-lychnis,  snails,  horns,  hedgehogs,  caterpillars,  migno- 
nette, china-aster,  horse-shoes,  belvidere,  candy-tuft,  honey-wort, 
convolvulus-minor,  cyanus,  china-hollyhock  lavatera,  curled  mallow, 
winged  pea,  china  pink,  ten  weeks'  stock,  and  many  other  sorts, 
which  will  flower  better  if  sown  early  than  if  delayed  to  a  late  period; 
though  all  of  the  above  will  succeed  very  well  if  sown  in  the  begin- 
ning of  next  month. 

These  should  be  sown,  each  kind  separate,  in  patches  in  the  dif- 
ferent borders  and  flower  beds,  &c.,  finally  to  remain  where  sown ;  or 
a  few,  when  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  may  be  carefully  transplanted 
into  such  borders  and  places  as  you  desire.  For  the  method  of  sow- 
ing them,  see  page  166. 

SOWING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OP  FIBROUS-ROOTED  PERENNIAL  AND 
BIENNIAL  PLANTS. 

Perennial  and  biennial  flower-seeds,  of  most  kinds,  may  be  sown, 
in  the  middle  and  southern  States,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the 
month;  in  the  eastern  States,  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  April  will 
be  preferable.  ' 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  these  kinds  do  not  flower  the  same  year 
they  are  sown ;  but  all  the  sorts  of  them  will  flower  strong,  and  in 
good  perfection  the  year  after. 

As  every  one  may  not  know  the  meaning  of  perennial  and  biennial 
plants,  the  perennials  are  those  which  continue  on  the  same  roots 
many  years,  producing  new  flower  stems  annually,  such  as  everlast- 
ing sunflower,  scarlet  lychnis,  perennial  asters,  &c.  The  biennials  are 


MARCH]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  313 

only  of  two  years'  duration,  being  sown  one  year,  flower  and  perfect 
their  seed  the  next,  and  soon  after  die,  or  become  of  a  dwindling 
growth,  such  as  honesty,  tree- primrose,  tree-mallow,  &c. 

Many  kinds  are  proper  to  be  sown  now,  such  as  carnations,  pinks, 
sweet-williams,  wall-flowers,  and  stock  July-flowers  of  all  sorts;  also 
rose-campion,  scarlet  lychnis,  columbines,  Greek  valerian,  polyanthus, 
auriculas,  scabiouses,  and  Canterbury  bells. 

The  seeds  of  hollyhocks,  French  honeysuckles,  rockets,  honesty,  or 
satin  flower,  tree-primrose,  broad-leaved  campanula,  and  fox-gloves ; 
snap-dragon,  bee-larkspur,  with  seeds  of  most  other  sorts  of  perennial 
and  biennial  plants,  may  be  sown. 

All  the  above,  and  other  hardy  perennial  and  biennial  flower-seeds, 
are  to  be  sown  in  beds  of  light  earth  in  the  open  ground. 

For  the  method  of  sowing  them,  see  the  Flower  Garden  for  next 
month. 

DIG  THE  BORDERS,  ETC. 

Dig  the  borders  and  flower  compartments,  &c.,  and  rake  them 
smooth ;  they  will  then  be  ready  to  receive  the  seeds  of  annual 
flowers  and  plants  of  other  kinds ;  besides  they  will  appear  fresh  and 
neat. 

TRANSPLANTING  PERENNIAL  PLANTS. 

Where  there  are  vacancies  in  any  of  the  beds,  borders,  or  other 
parts  of  the  garden,  they  may  now  be  filled  up  with  many  different 
kinds  of  perennial  and  biennial  flower  plants,  and  will  all  blow  the 
same  year. 

Many  principal  sorts  may  now  be  planted,  such  as  lychnises,  rose- 
campions,  rockets,  catch-fly,  campanulas,  carnations,  pinks,  and  sweet- 
williams,  double  feverfew,  golden  rod,  perennial  sunflowers,  perennial 
asters,  and  French  honeysuckles;  also  columbines,  Canterbury  bells, 
monk's-hood,  fox-gloves,  tree-primroses,  scabiouses,  snap-dragon,  lo- 
belias, irises,  bee-larkspur,  double  ragged  robin,  valerian,  and  most 
others  of  the  like  sorts. 

Plant  also  dwarf  fibrous-rooted  flowers  in  the  borders,  &c.,  they 
will  take  root  freely  in  a  short  time ;  such  as  polyanthuses,  double 
chamomile,  London  pride,  violets,  hepaticas,  thrift,  primroses,  saxi- 
frage, gentianella,  lilly  of  the  valley,  &c. 

In  planting  the  intended  different  kinds,  dispose  them  variedly, 
the  larger  growing  sorts  more  or  less  back ;  and  the  smaller  forward 
towards  the  front  and  middle. 

Give  water  at  first  planting,  and  afterwards  occasionally  in  dry 
weather,  till  the  plants  are  fresh  rooted ;  by  which  they  will  grow 
freely,  and  all  flower  the  same  year  in  their  proper  seasons. 

HOE   AND   RAKE   THE   BORDERS. 

Loosen  with  a  hoe  or  small  spade,  the  surface  of  those  beds  or 
borders  which  were  dug  and  planted  with  flowers  of  any  kinds  last 
autumn,  or  any  time  since. 


314  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH 

Let  this  be  done  in  a  dry  day,  hoeing,  or  lightly  digging  and  stir- 
ring the  earth  carefully  between  the  plants,  taking  care  of  the  shoots 
of  bulbous  roots,  &c.,  which  are  now  just  peeping  through  the  sur- 
face ;  clearing  away  all  decayed  leaves  of  the  plants,  weeds,  and  every 
sort  of  rubbish,  and  then  let  the  beds  or  borders  be  neatly  raked  even 
and  smooth. 

By  thus  loosening  the  surface  of  the  borders,  the  first  growth  of 
seed- weeds  will  be  retarded,  it  will  greatly  promote  the  strength  of 
the  flowers,  and  the  whole  will  appear  clean  and  agreeable. 

PRUNING  SHRUBS,  AND  DIGGING   THE  CLUMPS   IN  THE    SHRUBBERY. 

Finish  pruning  all  sorts  of  flowering  shrubs  and  evergreens  which 
require  it,  observing  the  directions  of  the  two  former  months. 

Dig  the  ground  in  the  clumps  or  borders  if  not  done  in  the  former 
month,  which  will  prove  beneficial ;  the  ground  being  turned  up 
fresh  will  appear  neat,  and  the  plants  will  show  themselves  more 
agreeably. 

•.^V^^y  *0«i&- W*  *MhM.  -^  $£*•' 

PLANTING    DECIDUOUS    FLOWERING   SHRUBS,    ORNAMENTAL  AND 
FOREST  TREES. 

Where  deciduous  flowering  shrubs  or  trees  are  wanted  in  any  of 
the  pleasure  grounds,  they  may  now  be  planted  with  good  success, 
such  as  common  and  Persian  lilacs,  snow-drop  tree,  fringe-tree,  blad- 
der-nut, rose-acacia,  bladder-senna,  angelica-tree,  Azalea,  honey- 
suckles, Calycanthus,  New  Jersey  tea,  Judas-tree,  clethra,  papaw, 
leather-wood,  fern-leaved  Comptonia,  Amorpha,  dog-wood,  double 
flowering  thorns,  cherries  and  peaches,  snowy-medlar,  Euonymus  in 
sorts,  Fothergilla,  althea-frutex,  Franklinia,  Guilandinia,  sassafras, 
swamp  magnolia,  Benjamin-tree,  witch-hazel,  St.  Peter' s-wort,  dou- 
ble altheas,  of  various  colors;  corchoras  japonica,  evergreen  or  sweet- 
scented  China  honeysuckle,  purple  magnolia,  pyrus  japonica,  purple 
beech,  copper  beech,  fern-leaved  beech,  Norway  maple,  sorbus  hy- 
brida,  jasmine,  rhus  cotinus,  or  Venetian  sumach,  Dierville  roses, 
and  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  shrubs ;  and  also  the  tulip-tree, 
lime-tree,  poplars  of  every  kind,  catalpa,  chestnuts  of  every  sort, 
sour  and  sweet  gum,  elm,  maple,  walnut,  hickory,  plane-tree,  horn- 
beam, beech,  nettle-trees,  ash,  honey-locust,  oak,  poplar,  &c.  &c. 

In  planting  trees  for  timber  allow  them  the  proper  distances  for 
the  purposes  intended ;  if  for  close  plantations,  or  by  way  of  coppices 
or  underwood  for  gradual  thinning  and  falling  for  poles  and  other 
small  purposes,  every  seven,  eight,  or  ten  years ;  you  may  plant  them 
in  close  rows  only  four,  five,  or  six  feet  distant ;  and  when  they  have 
attained  growths  proper  for  the  first  thinning,  select  the  handsomest 
plants  at  regular  distances  to  stand  for  timber,  and  thin  the  rest ; 
but  when  designed  to  fcave  the  whole  to  stand  for  a  full  plantation  of 
large  standards  before  they  are  thinned,  plant  them  at  from  ten  to 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet  distant. 


MARCH]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  315 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  PLANTING  ALL  SORTS  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

All  flowering  and  evergreen  shrubs,  ornamental  trees,  &c.,  designed 
for  the  shrubbery  and  other  plantations,  should  be  planted  at  such 
distances  that  they  may  not  crowd  each  other  as  they  grow  up ;  for 
they  always,  show  themselves  best  when  they  stand  separate  at  mode- 
rate distances.  Shrubs  of  all  kinds  designed  for  detached  clumps 
particularly,  should  be  planted  not  less  than  three  to  four  or  five  feet 
asunder,  that  the  different  kinds,  according  to  their  growths,  may 
generally  remain  distinct ;  but  where  a  thickety  growth  is  required 
in  particular  compartments,  a  closer  plantation  may  be  formed  of 
different  common  shrubs. 

Let  all  the  tree  kinds  be  allowed  proper  room,  proportionate  to 
their  respective  growths,  and  according  as  they  are  designed  for  open 
or  close  plantations,  or  clumps,  groves,  avenues  or  thickets,  &c. 

In  planting  shrubs  and  trees  of  every  kind,  let  all  convenient  ex- 
pedition be  made  in  doing  it,  so  that  they  may  be  planted  as  soon  as 
possible  after  they  are  taken  up,  or  brought  from  the  nursery  or 
elsewhere ;  that  their  roots  may  not  be  dried  by  the  sun  and  wind ; 
but  when  brought  from  any  distance,  and  they  cannot  be  immedi- 
ately planted,  untie  the  bundles,  lay  the  roots  in  a  trench,  and  cover 
them  with  earth  to  lie  till  the  places  allotted  are  ready  to  receive 
them. 

In  preparing  for  planting,  dig  a  round  aperture  for  each  shrub  or 
tree  from  half  a  yard  to  two  or  more  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  roots,  and  a  spade  deep,  capacious  enough  to  receive  them 
freely,  and  loosen  the  bottom  well.  Then  having  the  shrubs,  &c., 
ready,  prune  off  broken  or  bruised  roots,  and  any  irregular  produc- 
tions of  the  heads,  and  place  them  in  the  holes  upright,  break  the 
earth  well,  and  throw  it  in  equally  about  the  roots,  which  cover  a 
proper  depth,  shaking  each  plant  gently  as  the  earth  is  filled  in,  to 
cause  it  to  settle  close  between  all  the  roots  and  fibres ;  tread  it  mode- 
rately to  fix  the  plant  firmly  in  an  upright  position,  making  the  top 
of  the  earth  a  little  hollow  round  each  to  hold  water  when  given  in 
dry  weather;  and  if  they  are  watered  as  soon  as  planted,  it  will  settle 
the  earth  about  all  the  roots  more  effectually,  and  promote  their  fresh 
rooting;  it  would  be  of  advantage  in  general,  but  more  particularly 
to  any  of  the  more  tender  or  curious  shrubs,  &c.,  to  lay  some  long 
litter  on  the  surface  to  preserve  the  moisture  about  the  roots  in  dry 
weather. 

Immediately  after  planting,  fix  stakes  to  such  tall  plants  as  require 
support,  and  let  them  be  fastened  thereto. 


PLANTING  EVERGREENS. 

Evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  planted  with  good  success  any 
time  this  month  in  most  of  the  southern  States,  but  in  the  middle 
States  that  should  not  be  attempted  before  the  last  week  therein ; 
nor  in  the  eastern  States  before  the  beginning  or  middle  of  April; 
these  kinds  are  always  most  successfully  planted  when  done  imme- 


316  THE  PLEASURE,  OB  [MARCH 

diately  before,  their  respective  vegetations  commence;  which  is  a  rule 
that  ought  to  be  carefully  observed.  (See  the  Nursery  and  Pleasure 
Garden  for  next  month.) 

PLANTING  ROSES. 

You  may  plant  roses  any  time  this  month  that  the  weather  will 
permit ;  and  indeed  there  is  a  particular  advantage  in  planting  some 
every  ten  days,  even  to  the  middle  of  May,-  for  the  flowering  of  them 
may  be  retarded  in  this  way,  and  the  bloom  of  those  delightful  shrubs 
continued  for  a  much  longer  period  than  if  all  were  planted  at  the 
same  time ;  but  such  as  are  planted  after  the  twentieth  of  April, 
should  the  season  prove  dry,  will  require  shade  and  water  until  they 
have  taken  fresh  root.  The  early  planting,  however,  will  be  the 
most  successful  in  growth,  and  flower  in  greater  perfection  than  the 
others. 

PLANTING  BOX  EDGINGS. 

Box,  of  all  other  plants,  makes  the  neatest  and  most  beautiful 
edgings,  and  this  is  a  very  successful  time  to  plant  it,  particularly  in 
the  middle  States ;  in  the  other  States  it  should  be  planted  on  ihe 
spur  of  the  earliest  spring  vegetation ;  for  although  it  is  an  ever- 
green, its  taking  and  growing  freely  by  slips  or  cuttings,  causes  it  to 
agree  with  early  planting  better  than  those  kinds  that  do  not  easily 
propagate  in  that  way ;  and,  moreover,  it  is  very  hardy  and  seldom 
injured  by  winter  frosts. 

To  make  neat  edgings  you  should  get  some  short  bushy  box,  and 
let  it  be  slipped  or  parted  into  moderately  small  slips  of  not  more 
than  from  eight  to  ten  inches  long ;  if  any  of  them  have  roots  or 
fibres,  the  better,  but  the  cuttings  or  slips  will  all  grow  if  planted 
early,  and  kept  moderately  and  occasionally  watered.  The  long 
woody  roots  of  such  as  have  them  must  be  trimmed,  and  all  the 
plants,  slips  or  cuttings,  made  pretty  much  of  a  length. 

The  method  of  planting  is  this  :  stretch  your  line,  if  for  a  straight 
edging,  along  the  edge  of  the  bed  or  border,  let  that  part  be  trodden 
lightly  and  evenly  along  to  settle  it  moderately  firm,  and  with  the 
spade  make  it  up  full  and  even  according  to  the  line ;  then  on  the 
side  of  the  line  next  the  walk,  let  a  small  neat  trench  be  cut  out, 
about  six  inches  deep,  making  the  side  next  the  line  perfectly  up- 
right, turning  the  earth  out  towards  the  walk  or  alley. 

The  box  is  to  be  planted  in  this  trench  close  against  the  upright 
side  next  the  line,  placing  the  plants  so  near  together  as  to  form 
immediately  a  close  compact  edging,  without  being  too  thick  and 
clumsy,  and  with  the  top  of  the  plants  as  even  as  possible,  all  an 
equal  height,  not  more  than  an  inch  or  two  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  and  as  you  proceed  in  planting,  draw  the  earth  up  to  the 
outside  of  the  plants,  which  fixes  them  in  their  due  position ;  and 
when  you  have  planted  the  row  out,  then  with  your  spade  cast  in  the 
earth  almost  to  the  top  of  the  plants,  and  tread  it  neatly  and  closely 


MARCH]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  31 1 

thereto ;  when  the  edging  is  planted,  let  any  inequalities  of  the  top 
be  cut  as  even  and  neat  as  possible  with  a  pair  of  shears. 

Where  there  are  any  gaps  in  the  former  planted  edgings,  let  them 
now  be  made  good ;  for,  when  ragged  and  uneven,  they  have  a  dis- 
agreeable appearance. 

Or  where  any  old  edgings  of  several  years'  standing  have  been 
permitted  to  run  up  rude  and  spreading,  nothing  in  a  garden  looks 
more  unsightly  ;  and  should  be  taken  up,  slipped,  trimmed,  and  re- 
planted in  a  neat,  regular  order. 

For  an  account  of  the  various  plants  generally  used  for  edgings 
and  the  methods  of  planting  them,  see  the  Flower  Garden  next 
month.  They  may  all  be  planted  towards  the  latter  end  of  this,  if 
the  weather  proves  favorable. 


PLANT  HEDGES. 

Finish  planting  all  the  kinds  of  deciduous  hedges  as  early  in  the 
month  as  the  weather  permits,  and  if  the  season  proves  very  favor- 
able, you  may,  in  the  last  week  thereof,  plant  evergreen  hedges. 
For  the  methods  of  doing  which,  see  the  Nursery  for  this  month. 

China  arbor-vitae  forms  a  very  ornamental  hedge  for  a  flower 
garden.  The  American  makes  the  best  hedge. 

CLEAN  THE  PLEASURE  GARDEN. 

Every  part  of  this  garden  should  be  now  well  cleaned  and  put  into 
the  best  order.  Give  the  flower  borders,  beds,  &c.,  a  general  spring 
dressing,  by  digging,  hoeing,  and  raking;  let  the  edgings  of  box,  &c., 
be  regulated  where  disorderly,  and  the  gravel-walks  be  well  cleared 
from  weeds  and  litter,  and  occasionally  rolled. 

Keep  the  grass  lawns,  walks,  &c.,  now  well  cleared  from  litter  and 
worm-cast  earth,  which  appears  unsightly,  and  spoils  the  compact 
evenness  of  the  sward;  give  them,  therefore,  occasional  rollings  with 
a  heavy  roller,  whereby  to  preserve  a  clean,  even,  firm  surface,  neat 
to  appearance,  and  that  can  be  mowed  close  and  regular  with  greater 
facility. 

The  edges  of  all  the  grass  walks  and  lawns  should  now  be  cut 
even  with  an  edging-iron  (see  page  91),  which  will  add  greatly  to 
the  general  neatness. 

MAKING  GRASS-WALKS  AND  LAWNS. 

The  sooner  in  this  month  that  you  can  make  any  grass-walks,  lawns, 
or  grass- plats,  that  may  be  necessary,  the  better ;  as  the  roots  will 
have  time  to  establish  themselves  before  the  great  droughts  and  heats 
commenee.  Turf,  when  it  can  conveniently  be  got,  is  always  pre- 
ferable to  sowing  grass-seed,  but  in  extensive  lawns,  the  latter,  of 
necessity,  must  be  resorted  to.  The  best  turf  for  those  purposes,  is 
that  of  a  close-fed  pasture  or  common,  where  the  sward  is  tough,  and 
the  grass  short  and  fine. 

This  natural  turf  is  generally  composed  of  Kentucky  blue  grass 


318  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH 

(Poa  pratensis),  and  our  native  variety  of  white  clover  (Trifolium 
repens).  They  are  the  best  for  lawns  in  all  cases  as  they  do  not 
"  burn  out,"  and  form  a  close  sward. 

If  you  have  much  to  lay,  you  should  be  provided  with  a  turfing 
iron.  This  instrument  is  formed  with  an  iron  plate  for  the  cutter, 
six  or  seven  inches  wide,  rounding  at  the  edge,  very  sharp,  and  about 
a  foot  long,  pretty  much  in  the  form  of  a  spade;  and  at  the  tread, 
it  is  forged  or  connected  to  a  long  bent  iron  handle,  the  bending  so 
formed  as  to  admit  of  the  plate  or  cutter  resting  flat  on  the  ground, 
in  the  proper  position  for  flaying  the  turf;  the  iron  handle  at  top 
being  either  formed  like  the  handle  of  a  spade,  or  having  a  socket 
near  the  plate  to  place  a  crooked  wooden  and  properly  headed  handle 
therein.  With  this  instrument,  turf  can  be  taken  off  with  much  more 
convenience  and  expedition  than  with  a  spade;  but  when  it  cannot 
be  conveniently  had,  a  spade  may  do  very  well. 

It  will  also  be  necessary  in  order  to  go  completely  about  your  work, 
to  have  a  racer  or  sward-cutter.  This  should  have  a  stout  wooden 
handle,  about  four  feet  long  and  bent  a  little  in  the  lower  end, 
having  about  four  or  five  inches  of  the  point  end  of  an  old  scythe, 
placed  transversely  in  the  lower  extremity,  with  the  point  down- 
wards, projecting  an  inch  and  a  half,  with  the  edge  forward  and 
made  fast  in  a  slit  in  the  handle  with  a  couple  of  rivets  ;  so  that 
when  pushed  before  you,  it  may  expeditiously  cut  the  sward  as  you 
race  it  along. 

Having  this  instrument,  strain  a  line  tight,  first  lengthwise,  then 
strike  the  racer  into  the  sward  close  to  the  line,  run  it  along,  it  will 
expeditiously  cut  its  way  and  divide  the  turf  to  a  proper  depth ; 
directly  place  the  line  a  foot  farther,  and  race  it  out  as  before,  and 
so  proceed  to  as  many  widths  as  may  be  wanted,  then  with  the  line 
placed  crosswise,  race  out  the  sward  in  yard  lengths.  Being  thus 
divided,  the  turf-cutter  with  his  turfing  iron  proceeds  to  cut  them  up, 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  which  he  can  do  with  great  expedi- 
tion ;  and  according  as  they  are  cut,  each  should  be  rolled  up  with 
the  grass  side  inward,  as  close  and  firm  as  possible,  for  the  more  ready 
carrying  and  removing  them  without  breaking. 

Let  the  ground  where  the  turf  is  to  be  laid,  be  made  as  even  as 
possible,  that  it  may  settle  equally  thereafter,  and  rake  the  surface 
smooth.  In  laying  them,  make  the  edges  join  close  every  way,  and 
as  soon  as  laid,  the  whole  should  be  immediately  well  beaten,  with 
a  wooden  beater,  and  afterwards  rolled  with  a  heavy  stone,  or  iron 
roller. 

GRAVEL  WALKS. 

Now  is  the  time  to  begin  to  turn  gravel  walks  where  the  surface 
is  dirty,  &c.,  especially  in  the  middle  States,  observing,  that  this  is 
to  be  done  where  necessary  in  all  parts  of  the  Union  as  early  as 
possible  in  spring. 

The  gravel  walks  which  display  a  dirty  surface,  or  are  annoyed 
with  weeds,  should  be  turned  as  early  in  this  month  as  the  weather 
gets  dry  and  comfortable,  in  order  to  render  them  neat  and  conve- 


MARCH] 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 


319 


nient  for  walking  on.  For  the  method  of  doing  which,  as  well  as 
that  of  their  general  formation  and  treatment,  see  the  Flower  Gar- 
den for  next  month,  to  which  I  {ferticularly  refer  you,  and  advise  as 
much  of  that  work  to  be  done  in  this  as  the  weather  and  hurry  of 
business  will  permit. 

Such  gravel  walks  as  were  broken  up  and  laid  in  ridges  the  begin- 
ning of  winter,  which  is  a  very  bad  practice,  as  noticed  on  page  90, 
should  now  be  levelled  down,  formed,  dressed,  and  rolled,  as  directed 
next  month. 

The  necessity  of  due  attention  being  paid  to  all  your  walks,  on  the 
opening  of  spring,  is  so  evident,  that  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  urge 
it;  the  having  them  neat  and  newly  dressed  will  give  a  gay  and 
sprightly  appearance  to  the  whole  garden. 


RATIONALE   OF   DRAINING   LAND. 

*>  -'.;  \  ^i. ./  .V,  •••  •  /     •;,>     ,  M/>,        •»*:  "q&i'if    W*.    '        '  "'»'•'*     ''    "     ""      '  '*''     '"*  •         *'•  <   '  '^fV 

So  many  gardens  consist  of  a  clay  soil  which  it  is  necessary  to 
success  to  drain,  the  following  should  be  studied  by  those  who  wish 
to  understand  the  necessity  of  the  oft  repeated  advice  as  to  drainage, 
whether  they  be  gardeners  or  farmers. 

The  reason  why  drained  land  gains  heat,  and  water-logged  land  is 
always  cold,  consists  in  the  well-known  fact  that  heat  cannot  be  trans- 
mitted downwards  through  water.  This  may  readily  be  seen  by  the 
following  experiments  : — 

Experiment  No.  1. — A  square  box 
was  made  of  the  form  represented  by 
the  annexed  diagram,  eighteen  inches 
deep,  eleven  inches  wide  at  top,  and  six 
inches  wide  at  bottom.  It  was  filled 
with  peat,  saturated  with  water  to  c, 
forming  to  that  depth  (twelve  and  a  half 
inches)  a  sort  of  artificial  bog.  The 
box  was  then  filled  with  water  to  d. 
The  thermometer  a,  was  plunged,  so 
that  its  bulb  was  within  one  and  a  half 
inch  of  the  bottom.  The  temperature 
of  the  whole  mass  of  peat  and  water 
was  found  to  be  39  J°  Fahr.  A  gallon 
of  boiling  water  was  then  added;  it 
raised  the  surface  of  the  water  to  e.  In 
five  minutes  the  thermometer  a  rose  to 
44°,  owing  to  the  conduction  of  heat  by 
the  thermometer,  and  its  guard  tube;  at 
ten  minutes  from  the  introduction  of 
the  hot  water,  the  thermometer  a  rose  to  46°,  and  it  subsequently 
rose  no  higher.  Another  thermometer,  6,  dipping  under  the  surface 
of  the  water  .ate,  was  then  introduced,  and  the  following  are  the 
indications  of  the  two  thermometers  at  the  respective  intervals, 
reckoning  from  the  time  the  hot  water  was  supplied  : — 


320  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH 

Thermometer  &.    Thermometer  a. 

20  minutes   V  4"TY"»  .t-'  15QO  46° 

1  hour  30   "      .    •%=  -U   101  45 

2  hours  30   "  ^     .  .i*V*  80 J  42 

12   "  40  ••&.•;.•  *,<*;.;  y,*sfc-  A-it   45  40 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  external  air  to  which  the  box  was 
exposed  during  the  above  period  was  42°,  the  maximum  being  47°, 
and  the  minimum  37°. 

Experiment  No.  2. — With  the  same  arrangement  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding case,  a  gallon  of  boiling  water  was  introduced  above  the  peat 
and  water,  when  the  thermometer  a  was  at  36°;  in  ten  minutes  it 
rose  to  40°.  The  cock  was  then  turned,  for  the  purpose  of  drainage, 
which  was  but  slowly  effected,  and,  at  the  end  of  twenty  minutes, 
the  thermometer  a  indicated  40°;  at  twenty -five  minutes  42°,  whilst 
the  thermometer  b  was  142°.  At  thirty  minutes,  the  cock  was 
withdrawn  from  the  box,  and  more  free  egress  of  water  being  thus 
afforded,  at  thirty-five  minutes  the  flow  was  no  longer  continuous, 
and  the  thermometer  b  indicated  48°.  -The  mass  was  drained  and 
permeable  to  a  fresh  supply  of  water.  Accordingly,  another  gallon 
of  boiling  water  was  poured  over  it,  and,  in 

3  minutes,  the  thermometer  a  rose  to  77° 

5      "  "  "  fell  to  76J 

15      "  "  "  " 

20      "  "  "  remained  at  7l 

1  hour  50      "  "  "          "  70£ 

In  these  two  experiments,  the  thermometer  at  the  bottom  of  the 
box  suddenly  rose  a  few  degrees  immediately  after  the  hot  water  was 
added ;  and  it  might  be  inferred  that  heat  was  carried  downwards  by 
the  water.  But,  in  reality,  the  rise  was  owing  to  the  action  of  the 
hot  water  on  the  thermometer,  and  not  to  its  action  upon  the  cold 
water.  To  prove  this  the  perpendicular  thermometers  were  removed. 
The  box  was  filled  with  peat  and  water  to  within  three  inches  of  the 
top ;  a  horizontal  thermometer,  a  /,  having  been  previously  secured 
through  a  hole  made  in  the  side  of  the  box,  by  means  of  a  tight- 
fitting  cork,  in  which  the  naked  stem  of  the  thermometer  was  grooved. 
A  gallon  of  boiling  water  was  then  added.  The  thermometer,  a  very 
delicate  one,  was  not  in  the  least  affected  by  the  boiling  water  in  the 
top  of  the  box. 

In  this  experiment,  the  wooden  box  may  be  supposed  to  be  a  field; 
the  peat  and  cold  water  represent  the  water-logged  portion ;  rain  falls 
on  the  surface,  and  becomes  warmed  by  contact  with  the  soil,  and 
thus  heated  descends.  But  it  is  stopped  by  the  cold  water,  and  the 
heat  will  go  no  further.  But,  if  the  soil  is  drained,  and  not  water- 
logged, the  warm  rain  trickles  through  the  crevices  of  the  earth,  car- 
rying to  the  drain  level  the  high  temperature  it  had  gained  on  the 
surface,  parts  with  it  to  the  soil  as  it  passes  down,  and  thus  produces 
that  bottom  heat  which  is  so  essential  to  plants,  although  so  few  sus- 
pect its  existence. 

This  necessity  of  warmth  at  the  root  undoubtedly  explains  why  it 
is  that  hardy  trees,  over  whose  roots  earth  has  been  heaped,  or  hav- 
ing laid,  are  found  to  suffer  so  much,  or  even  to  die ;  in  such  case, 


MARCH]  FLOWER  GARDEN. — GREEN-HOUSE.  321 

the  earth  in  which  the  roots  are  growing  is  constantly  much  colder 
than  the  atmosphere,  instead  of  warmer. 

It  is  to  the  coldness  of  the  earth  that  must  be  ascribed  the  common 
circumstance  of  vines  that  are  forced  early,  not  setting  their  fruit 
well  when  their  roots  are  in  the  external  border,  and  unprotected  by 
artificial  means ;  and  to  the  same  cause  is  often  ascribed  the  shank- 
ing  or  shrivelling  of  grapes,  which  most  commonly  happens  to  vines 
whose  roots  are  in  a  cold  or  unsunned  border. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

The  green-house  plants  should  now  have  plenty  of  air  admitted  to 
them  at  all  favorable  opportunities,  particularly  as  the  weather  gets 
warm  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  but  due  attention  must 
be  paid,  in  any  sudden  changes,  which  are  very  frequent  at  this 
season,  to  preserve  them  from  cold,  cutting,  or  frosty  winds ;  during 
the  prevalence  of  which,  the  windows,  &c.  should  be  kept  close,  for 
such  weather  would  ruin  some  of  the  tender  kinds,  and  would  be  of 
bad  consequence  to  all.  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  the  windows 
and  doors  must  be  kept  close  every  night,  and  should  imperious  ne- 
cessity require  it,  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  the  flues  heated  at 
night  to  counteract  the  power  of  severe  frosts. 

Look  over  the  tubs  or  pots  every  day,  and  see  where  water  is  want- 
ing, and  let  such  as  require  it  be  supplied  therewith,  taking  care  to 
use  moderation  in  that  case.  Water  will  be  serviceable  to  most  of 
the  plants,  but  especially  to  all  the  woody  kinds,  which  will  now  re- 
quire more  frequent  refreshments,  if  fine  mild  weather,  but  always 
in  moderate  quantities  j  and  be  still  careful,  on  the  whole,  not  to  give 
too  much  water  at  a  time,  for  that  would  prove  the  destruction  of 
many  kinds,  and  would  be  prejudicial  to  the  plants  in  general,  espe- 
cially if  a  cold  season,  and  while  they  are  confined  in  the  green- 
house. 

Keep  every  plant  in  the  house  free  from  decayed  leaves ;  that  is, 
where  such  appear  let  them  be  immediately  picked  off;  for  these,  if 
generally  permitted  to  remain  would  injure  the  plants ;  besides,  they 
appear  disagreeable. 

Any  decayed  or  mouldy  shoots  should  be  cut  clean  off  to  the  firm 
live  wood,  and  where  dust  or  any  sort  of  filth  appears  on  the  leaves 
of  the  plants,  let  them  be  cleared  therefrom  :  if  those  of  the  oranges, 
lemons,  and  other  large-leaved  kinds,  are  foul,  have  a  sponge  dipped 
in  water  and  clean  them  therewith,  one  by  one,  and  let  the  small- 
leaved  sorts  be  cleaned  by  a  brisk  syringing  all  over  their  heads. 

ORANGES,  LEMONS,  AND   MYRTLES. 

Where  any  of  the  oranges,  lemons,  and  myrtles,  &c.,  have  naked 
or  irregular  heads,  you  may  now  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month, 
if  mild  fine  weather,  begin  to  reduce  them  to  some  regularity.     The 
21 


322  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [MARCH 

branches  or  head  may  either  be  cut  close,  or  shortened  less  or  more 
to  the  place  where  you  desire  shoots  to  rise,  to  form  the  head  regu- 
lar, for  they  will  break  out  in  the  old  wood. 

When  any  trees  are  thus  headed  down,  it  would  also  be  an  advan- 
tage to  shift  them,  especially  such  as  are  of  a  weakly  growth,  in 
order  to  add  a  little  fresh  earth  about  their  roots ;  and  the  method  is 
this  :  let  the  tree  be  taken  out  of  its  tub  or  pot,  but  preserve  the  ball 
of  earth  entire  j  then  trim  off  with  your  knife  any  very  matted  roots, 
or  dry  fibres  round  the  outside,  and  also  some  of  the  loose  old  earth 
from  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  ball;  and,  having  fresh  compost 
ready,  put  some  into  the  bottom  of  the  pot  or  tub ;  place  the  tree 
therein,  fill  up  around  the  ball  with  fresh  earth,  and  give  it  a  little 
water. 

But  in  heading  down  any  of  the  green-house  plants,  if  time  will 
not  permit,  or  that  you  think  it  not  necessary  to  shift  them  as  above, 
do  not,  however,  fail  to  loosen  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  tub  or 
pots,  and  a  little  way  down  around  the  sides,  and  draw  this  loose 
earth  out ;  then  fill  up  the  tub  again  with  new  compost,  and  give  some 
water. 

But  where  any  orange  or  lemon-trees  are  in  a  very  weak  or  sickly 
unprosperous  growth,  it  would  be  advisable  about  the  latter  end  of 
this  month,  or  beginning  of  next,  to  prune  the  heads  and  shift  them 
into  entire  new  earth,  taking  the  plant  clean  out  of  the  pot,  all  the 
old  earth  shaken  entirely  from  its  roots,  and  all  mouldy  and  decayed 
roots  cut  off;  then  let  the  whole  root  be  washed  in  water,  and  plant 
it  again  immediately  in  a  tub  or  pot  of  new  earth,  taking  care  not 
to  place  it  too  deep,  and  give  water  moderately. 

After  this  shifting,  it  would  be  a  great  advantage  to  the  same 
plants  if  you  had  the  convenience  of  a  glass  case,  &c.,  in  which  pre- 
viously to  make  a  hot-bed  of  tan  or  dung,  but  tan  is  much  prefer- 
able ;  and  if  in  this  bed  the  trees  are  plunged,  they  will  shoot  sooner 
and  more  freely,  both  in  root  and  top,  to  recover  good  strength,  and  a 
renewed  head  of  branches  of  prosperous  growth,  early  in  the  follow- 
ing summer. 

HEADING  DOWN   MYRTLES,  ETC. 

Where  myrtles  or  other  similar  exotics  have  decayed  branches,  or 
their  heads  thin,  straggling,  and  irregular,  they  may  now  also  be 
headed  down,  more  or  less,  as  it  shall  seem  proper,  and  either  shift 
them  into  some  fresh  earth,  as  directed  above  for  the  oranges,  or  some 
of  the  top  mould  within  the  pots  taken  out,  and  a  little  around  the 
sides,  then  fill  up  with  fresh  earth  and  water  them. 

These  trees  with  this  management  will  shoot  out  again,  and  in  four 
or  five  months'  time  will  be  furnished  with  entire  new  heads.  Supply 
them  duly  with  water. 

SHIFTING  PLANTS,    THAT    WANT  IT,  INTO   LARGER   POTS. 

Any  of  the  oranges,  lemons,  or  myrtles,  or  other  green-house 
plants  that  want  larger  pots,  may  be  shifted  therein,  with  some  fresh 
earth,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  when  the  weather  is  mild. 


MARCH]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  323 

In  performing  this,  let  each  plant  intended  for  shifting  be  turned 
out  of  its  present  pot  with  the  ball  of  earth  entire  ;  but  let  any 
thickly  matted  or  dry  mouldy  roots  on  the  outside  of  the  ball  be 
pared  off  with  a  sharp  knife ;  then  set  them  in  their  new  pots,  and 
fill  up  the  spaces  with  fresh  earth. 

Water  them  immediately  after  this,  set  them  in  their  places  in  the 
green-house,  and  they  will  shoot  freely  both  at  the  root  and  top. 

CARE  OF  GERANIUMS  OR  PELARGONIUMS. 

Examine  the  geraniums  and  other  plants  of  a  similar  growth ;  the 
young  shoots  being  somewhat  succulent,  are  more  liable  to  injury 
from  the  effects  of  a  severe  winter,  or  great  damps,  than  the  harder 
wooded  exotics,  so  that  sometimes  many  of  them  decay  or  mould,  and 
which,  where  they  occur,  should  now  be  pruned  away  :  likewise  pick 
off  all  decayed  leaves. 

Your  geraniums  will  now  show  flowers,  and  it  is  necessary  to  give" 
them  plenty  of  water  and  as  much  air  as  the  weather  will  admit  of. 

GIVING  FRESH   EARTH   TO   THE   POTS    OF   GREEN-HOUSE   PLANTS. 

The  orange  and  green-house  plants  in  general,  which  do  not  re- 
quire shifting,  should  at  this  time  have  some  fresh  earth  added  to 
the  tops  of  their  pots  or  tubs ;  it  will  encourage  the  plants  greatly, 
and  it  is  soon  done. 

First  loosen  the  old  earth  in  the  tops  of  the  tubs  or  pots,  quite  to 
the  surface  of  the  roots,  but  so  as  not  to  disturb  them,  and  loosen  it 
also  down  round  the  sides  a  little  way,  then  take  out  the  loose  earth 
and  fill  up  the  pots  with  some  that  is  new,  and  give  them  a  moderate 
watering. 

SOW  SEEDS  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS,  ETC. 

A  hot-bed  may  be  made  the  beginning  of  this  month  to  sow  the 
seeds  of  tender  plants,  either  of  the  green-house  or  stove  kinds.  The 
bed  should  be  made  either  of  hot  dung,  or  fresh  tanners'  bark,  and 
covered  with  frames  and  glasses ;  or  if  made  of  hot  dung,  lay  eight, 
ten,  or  twelve  inches  of  tan-bark  at  top,  either  new  or  old,  both  in 
which  to  plunge  the  pots,  &c.,  and  to  continue  longer  a  regular  heat. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  pots  of  light  earth,  and  these  plunged 
to  their  rims  in  the  tan,  and  moderately  watered  at  times,  as  you  see 
occasion. 

Where  tan  cannot  be  obtained  readily,  make  the  bed  of  hot  dung, 
three  feet  high,  set  a  frame  on,  and  when  the  burning  heat  is  over, 
lay  on  four  or  five  inches  depth  of  earth,  then  fill  some  middling 
small  pots  with  fine  light  mould,  sow  the  seeds  therein,  and  cover 
them  lightly  with  sifted  earth,  then  plunge  the  pots  in  the  earth  on 
the  bed,  and  put  on  the  glasses. 

Let  the  pots  in  general  be  frequently  sprinkled  with  water,  and 
when  the  plants  appear,  give  them  fresh  air,  by  raising  the  glasses 
behind  a  little  way.  Observe  to  keep  up  the  heat  of  the  bed,  by 


321  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [MARCH 

applying  a  lining  of  fresh  hot  dung,  when  it  declines  much,  and  pro- 
tect them  occasionally  from  the  too  powerful  influence  of  the  mid- 
day sun. 

SOWING  KERNELS  OF  ORANGES  FOR  STOCKS. 

Now  is  the  time  to  sow  the  kernels  of  oranges  and  lemons,  in  order 
to  raise  stocks  to  bud  any  of  those  kinds  of  trees  upon. 

The  best  method  of  sowing  these  kernels  is  this :  fill  some  middle- 
sized  pots  with  very  good  earth,  sow  the  kernels  in  the  pots,  and 
cover  them  half  an  inch  deep  with  earth,  then  plunge  the  pots  into 
a  hot-bed,  and  let  them  be  frequently  watered.  (See  the  Green-house, 
next  month.) 

PROPAGATING  BY  CUTTINGS,  LAYERS,  ETC. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  and  slips,  various  shrubby  green-house  plants, 
as  myrtles,  geraniums,  fuchsias,  oleanders,  hydrangeas,  jasmines,  coro- 
nillas,  justicias,  &c.  The.  young  shoots  planted  in  pots  and  placed  in 
a  hot-bed,  will  soon  strike  ^oot  and  grow  freely;  or  where  there  is 
the  convenience  of  bark-beds,  either  in  a  hot-house,  or  under  any 
glass  frames,  &c.,  these,  and  many  other  sorts,  if  plunged  therein, 
may  be  struck  very  expeditiously  \  or,  if  at  the  same  time,  some  are 
covered  with  a  hand-glass,  it  will  still  more  expedite  their  rooting, 
giving  proper  waterings. 

Likewise  propagate  shrubby  kinds  by  layers,  and  also  different 
sorts  by  suckers,  &c. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 


FRUITING  PINES. 

It  is  on  a  due  proportion  of  air  admitted  into  the  hot-house  that 
the  goodness  of  the  pine  plants  in  a  great  measure  depends.  The 
want  of  it  will  cause  them  to  grow  with  long  leaves  and  weak  stems, 
which  plants  never  produce  good  fruit. 

On  the  other  hand,  air  admitted  in  too  great  a  quantity,  or  at  im- 
proper times,  will  injure  the  plants,  and  cause  them  to  grow  yellow 
and  sickly. 

In  the  depth  of  winter,  during  the  time  that  the  plants  are  nearly 
in  a  state  of  inaction,  the  hot-house  will  require  but  very  little  air ; 
yet  it  will  absolutely  be  necessary  to  take  every  favorable  oppor- 
tunity to  let  out  the  foul  air  and  admit  fresh,  when  it  can  be  done 
with  safety  to  the  plants ;  the  letting  down  the  glasses  a  little  way, 
even  for  &few  minutes,  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  is  of  more  import- 
ance than  inexperienced  persons  can  conceive,  especially  when  there 
is  a  little  sun  and  a  mild  wind.  But  at  this  season,  particularly  in 
the  advanced  part  of  the  month,  to  have  regard  to  the  words  give  air 


MARCH]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  325 

on  the  botanical  thermometers,  is  not  necessary,  for  a  little  may  with 
much  safety  be  given,  although  the  spirits  should  not  rise  higher 
than  62°  of  Fahrenheit,  or  six  or  eight  degrees  above  temperate. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  continue  a  regular  degree  of  heat  in  the 
house,  as  directed  last  month,  by  keeping  up  a  fire-heat  every  even- 
ing, night,  and  morning,  but  more  particularly  in  severe  weather; 
and  a  constant  heat  in  the  bark-bed.  As  the  heat  of  the  weather 
increases,  and  the  sun  becomes  powerful,  the  morning  fires,  in  par- 
ticular, must  be  regulated  accordingly. 

The  fruiting-plants  will  now  generally  show  fruit;  they  must, 
therefore,  have  very  particular  care,  and  not  be  suffered  to  want  a 
sufficiency  of  bottom  heat,  air,  or  a  reasonable  portion  of  water. 

Examine  the  bark-bed,  and  see  if  there  is  a  proper  heat,  for  upon 
that  depends  the  success  of  having  handsome  and  full-sized  fruit. 
The  great  article  is  to  preserve  a  free  growth  in  the  fruit  from  their 
first  appearance  to  the  time  of  their  maturity ;  this  must  be  done  by 
keeping  the  bark-bed  to  a  proper  degree  of  heat ,  that  is,  it  should 
be  quite  lively,  for  a  faint  heat  will  not  answer  the  purpose ;  there- 
fore, on  examining  the  bed,  if  you  find  it  much  decreased,  let  pre- 
paration be  made  for  its  revival  as  soon  as  possible. 

Provide  for  that  purpose  a  quantity  of  new  bark  from  the  tanners 
the  beginning  of  this  month.  The  middle-sized  bark  is  to  be  chosen, 
and  such  as  has  been  at  least  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  out  of  the 
tan-vats. 

The  quantity  of  fresh  bark  necessary  to  provide  at  this  time, 
should  be  equal  to  near  one-third  of  what  the  bark-pit  will  contain. 
This,  when  brought  home,  if  very  full  of  moisture,  and  but  little  or 
no  heat,  should  be  thrown  up  in  a  heap  to  remain  eight  or  ten  days, 
to  drain  and  prepare  for  fermentation.  But  if  very  wet,  it  should  be 
first  spread  thin  in  an  open,  sunny  place  for  two  or  three  days  to 
dry,  and  then  be  thrown  in  a  heap. 

When  your  bark  is  ready,  and  the  bark-pit  is  declined  in  heat, 
the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  earlier  if  necessary,  proceed  to  fork 
up  and  renew  it  as  directed  in  page  185,  and  immediately  replunge 
the  pots.  The  whole  of  this  work  should  be  begun  and  finished  the 
same  day  if  possible. 

The  heat  of  the  old  bark,  not  being  quite  exhausted,  will  cause  the 
new  immediately  to  ferment,  and  if  well  proportioned  and  mixed, 
and  it  is  done  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  it  will  retain  a  kindly 
growing  heat  till  the  fruit  is  ripe.  (For  further  particulars,  see  Janu- 
ary and  February.} 

SUCCESSION  PINES.* 

As  the  length  ""of  the  day  and  power  of  the  sun  increase,  these 
plants  will  begin  to  grow  freely,  and  from  this  time  it  will  be  neces- 

*  The  best  cultivators  now  dispense  with  succession  stocks  altogether. 
The  under  part  of  the  bed  is  heated  by  hot- water  pipes,  the  plants  twined 
into  the  bed,  and  a  good  sucker  allowed  to  take  the  place  of  the  one  fruited 
In  this  way  a  crop  is  annually  secured  from  the  same  bed. 


326  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [MARCH 

sary  to  keep  them  in  a  regular  growing  state ;  for  if  young  plants 
receive  a  check  afterwards,  it  generally  causes  many  of  them  to  start 
fruit.  From  this  time  forward  they  will  require  a  little  water  occa- 
sionally, just  what  is  only  sufficient  to  keep  the  earth  in  a  moderate 
state  of  moisture,  for  too  much  would  injure  them. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  or  soon  after,  will  be  an  eligible 
season  for  shifting  them,  in  the  doing  of  which,  shake  off  the  whole 
ball  of  earth,  and  cut  off  all  the  roots  that  are  of  a  black  color,  care- 
fully preserving  such  only  as  are  white  and  strong.  Then  put  the 
plants  that  are  intended  to  fruit  next  season,  in  pots  of  eight  or  nine 
inches  diameter  at  the  top,  and  seven  deep,  with  fresh  mould  entire. 

The  bed  at  this  time  should  be  renewed  with  a  little  fresh  tan,  and 
forked  up  in  order  to  promote  its  heating,  and  the  pots  plunged 
therein  immediately.  The  hot-house  should  be  kept  pretty  warm  till 
the  heat  of  the  tan  begins  to  rise,  as  it  will  be  the  means  of  causing 
the  plants  to  strike  both  sooner  and  stronger. 

As  soon  as  the  bed  gets  warm,  give  the  plants  a  sprinkling  of  water 
over  their  leaves,  and  when  you  perceive  them  to  grow,  give  water 
according  as  they  require  it,  and  as  the  weather  increases  in  heat 
give  air  in  proportion. 

VARIOUS  SHRUBBY  AND  SUCCULENT  HOT-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

The  various  kinds  of  shrubby  and  succulent  exotics  will  require 
the  same  treatment  this  month  as  directed  in  the  last,  page  186,  &c., 
but  particularly  observing  to  give  them  air  in  proportion  as  the  heat 
of  the  weather  increases,  and  water  according  to  their  respective  ne- 
cessities, as  noticed  in  February. 

PROPAGATION  OP  EXOTIC  TREES,  SHRUBS,  AND  PLANTS. 

This  is  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  such  seeds  of  rare  plants  as  you 
are  able  to  procure ;  those  that  are  in  good  condition,  and  whose  nature 
it  is  to  vegetate  the  first  season,  will  rise  freely ;  but  many  kinds  will 
not  grow  for  three,  four,  five,  or  six  months  after  sowing,  and  others 
not  for  a  year;  therefore,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  patience,  and 
to  take  care  all  the  time  of  the  whole,  as  well  the  pots  in  which  the 
plants  do  not  rise,  as  those  that  do ;  if  you  have  room  to  plunge  them 
into  the  bark-pit,  or  into  hot-beds  at  work,  or  made  for  the  purpose, 
it  will  greatly  facilitate  their  growth. 

You  may  now  propagate  many  kinds  by  suckers,  cuttings,  and 
layers,  which  should  be  duly  attended  to,  particularly  such  as  are 
scarce  and  difficult  to  be  obtained. 


RAISING  EARLY  FLOWERS.  FRUITS,  ETC.  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Pots  of  any  desirable  flowering  plants  may  still  be  introduced  to 
forward  an  early  bloom,  such  as  pinks,  fuchsias,  hydrangeas,  roses, 
carnations,  and  many  others.  (See  February,  &c.) 

Also  pots  of  strawberries  and  vines,  as  in  the  two  former  months, 
to  continue  the  supply  of  early  fruit. 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  32 1 

Likewise,  a  few  more  kidney-beans,  &c.  (See  last  month  and 
January?) 

In  hot-houses  where  grape-vines  are  trained  in,  from  plants  grow- 
ing on  the  outside,  and  conducted  up  under  the  glasses,  &c.,  they 
will,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  or  earlier,  according  to  the  de- 
gree of  heat  kept  up,  be  well  advanced  in  young  shoots,  having  fruit, 
which  shoots  should  be  carefully  trained  along  in  regular  order,  and 
all  the  improper  and  superfluous  growths  cut  away. 


APRIL. 


THE    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 

PREVIOUS  to  entering  upon  the  work  of  the  kitchen  garden,  &c. 
for  this  month,  it  will  be  proper  to  observe  that  a  great  portion  of 
the  open  ground  culture  and  sowing  necessary  to  be  done  in  some 
places  in  April,  have  been  fully  treated  of  in  March,  in  order  to 
accommodate  those  citizens  of  the  middle  States,  whose  gardens, 
from  the  nature  of  soil  and  situation,  admit  of  early  sowing,  as  well 
as  a  desire  in  many  to  have  their  crops  at  as  early  a  period  as  pos- 
sible, either  for  sale  or  family  use;  and  also  for  the  general  accommo- 
dation of  the  more  southerly  States,  that  month  being  their  principal 
season  for  gardening.  But,  in  the  eastern  States  generally,  and  in 
such  parts  of  the  middle  States  as  the  ground  is  naturally  of  a  bind- 
ing and  heavy  nature,  this  will  be  the  most  eligible  period  for  sowing 
their  general  garden  crops ;  always  observing  to  sow  the  hardy  kinds 
as  early  in  the  month  as  the  soil,  season,  and  situation  will  admit  of, 
in  order  that  the  young  plants  may  be  established  before  they  are 
overtaken  by  the  summer  heat  and  drought ;  but  never,  nor  on  any 
account  should  a  stiff  or  moist  ground  be  wrought  till  it  gets  so  dry 
as  to  fall  to  pieces  in  the  working,  nor  delayed  till  it  binds  and 
becomes  hard.  Let  the  spade  not  be  applied  till  every  particle  of 
water,  that  is  not  in  contact  with  the  clay,  is  either  drained  away  or 
drawn  off  by  the  air ;  nick  that  time  and  you  will  then  find  the  earth 
to  work  freely,  and  not  subject  to  bind  afterwards ;  for  if  a  clay  is 
worked  before  this  critical  period  it  kneads  like  dough,  becomes  more 
tough,  and  never  fails  to  bind  when  drought  follows,  which  not  only 
prevents  the  seed  to  rise,  but  injures  the  plants  materially  in  their 
subsequent  growth  by  its  becoming  impervious  to  the  moderate  rains, 
dews,  air,  and  influence  of  the  sun,  which  are  all  necessary  to  the 
promotion  of  vegetation. 

On  the  other  hand,  a  light  sandy  soil  will  be  rather  benefited  by 
working  it  when  moist,  as  such  will  have  a  tendency  to  make  it  more 
compact,  and  consequently  more  retentive  of  moisture. 

The  nearer  the  ground  approaches  to  a  sand  the  less  retentive  will 
it  be  of  moisture ;  the  more  to  a  clay  the  longer  will  it  retain  it ;  and 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

the  finer  the  particles  of  which  the  clay  is  composed,  the  faster  will 
it  hold  every  small  particle  of  water,  and  consequently  be  longer  in 
drying,  and  become  harder  when  dry ;  but  earth  of  a  consistence 
that  will  hold  water  the  longest  without  becoming  hard  when  dry,  is 
that  of  all  others  best  adapted  for  raising  the  generality  of  plants  in 
the  greatest  perfection.  This  last  described  is  called  loam,  and  is  a 
medium  earth  between  the  extremes  of  clay  and  sand. 

The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and  clay  soils,  is  to  give  to  the 
former  such  dressings  of  clay,  cow-dung,  and  other  kinds  of  manure, 
as  will  have  a  tendency  to  bind  and  make  it  more  compact,  and  con- 
sequently more  retentive  of  moisture;  and  to  the  latter,  coats  of 
sandy  earth,  pond-mud,  horse-dung,  and  such  other  composts  as  may 
tend  to  separate  its  particles  and  open  its  pores,  thereby  easily  to 
discharge  any  superabundance  of  moisture,  and  cause  it  to  approach 
as  near  as  possible  to  a  loam,  which  may  be  greatly  assisted  by  sum- 
mer and  winter  fallowing ;  for  the  winter  frost  and  summer  heat  being 
the  plough  and  spade  of  nature,  have  a  power  to  separate  the  parti- 
cles of  earth,  by  the  expansion  of  the  particles  of  water  lodged  be- 
tween and  in  contact  with  them,  more  effectually  than  the  ploughs 
and  spades  made  by  the  hand  of  man ;  but  when  art  and  nature  act 
in  co-operation,  the  business  is  more  speedily  accomplished.  This  is 
the  foundation  stone  of  horticulture  and  agriculture,  and  merits  the 
serious  consideration  of  every  person  concerned. 

Let  it  not  be  understood  that  I  am  an  advocate  for  late  sowing  or 
planting ;  I  am  the  reverse,  when  it  can  be  done  under  favorable  cir- 
cumstances. 

The  above  remarks  are  applicable  generally  to  all  the  other  open 
ground  departments,  as  well  as  to  the  Kitchen  Garden  ;  but  particu- 
larly inasmuch  as  they  have  relation  to  the  sowing  of  seeds. 

CARE   OF   CUCUMBERS   AND   MELONS,  ETC. 


Examine  your  cucumber  and  melon  beds,  and  if  any  have  declined 
in  heat,  especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  line  them  with 
fresh  dung,  as  directed  in  page  25 :  this  will  be  necessary,  in  order 
to  obtain  plentiful  crops  of  fruit. 

As  the  sun  is  now  become  very  powerful,  all  kinds  of  plants  which 
you  have  in  hot-beds,  will  require  abundance  of  air,  and  occasional 
shade,  for  if  the  beds  were  left  close  shut  only  for  a  few  hours  during 
the  prevalence  of  a  hot  mid-day  sun,  the  whole  would  be  scorched 
to  death :  therefore  you  ought  never  to  leave  the  garden  at  such  times 
without  first  raising  the  glasses  and  giving  shade  to  the  plants  if 
thought  necessary. 

MAKING   NEW   HOT-BEDS   FOR  CUCUMBERS   AND    MELONS. 

In  order  to  have  successional  crops  of  cucumbers  and  melons,  you 
may  in  the  early  part  of  this  month  make  new  hot-beds,  either  for 
the  reception  of  plants  or  for  sowing  the  seeds ;  observing  the  direc- 
tions given  in  the  former  months,  as  well  for  these,  as  the  due  atten- 
tion which  fruiting  and  other  plants  require. 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  329 


MAKING   HOT-BED   RIDGES   FOR   CUCUMBERS   AND   MELONS. 

Make  hot-bed  ridges  about  the  middle  of  this  month  for  the  cu- 
cumber and  melon  plants  raised  last  month,  in  order  to  be  planted 
under  hand  or  bell-glasses.  For  this  purpose  make  trenches  three 
feet  wide  and  two  deep,  in  a  warm  dry  part  of  the  garden,  and  fill 
them  to  the  surface  with  good  fresh  horse-dung,  as  directed  in  Janu- 
ary for  other  hot-beds,  then  you  may  either  earth  them  directly,  or 
in  two  or  three  days  after  when  the  dung  will  be  settled,  and  the  heat 
risen  to  the  top  of  the  bed,  laying  from  seven  to  nine  inches  thick 
of  light  rich  earth  over  every  part. 

When  this  is  done  and  all  the  surface  made  smooth,  lay  on  your 
hand  or  bell-glasses  in  the  middle  of  the  ridge  four  feet  asunder, 
and  keep  them  close  down  till  the  dung  has  thoroughly  warmed  the 
earth,  then  proceed  to  put  in  the  plants. 

You  may  plant  under  each  glass  two  strong  melon  plants,  or  three 
cucumbers;  observing,  if  possible,  to  remove  and  plant  them  with 
balls  of  earth  about  their  roots. 

As  soon  as  they  are  planted,  let  them  be  moderately  watered  and 
directly  set  on  the  glasses ;  if  sunny  weather,  and  the  sun  powerful, 
shade  them  a  little  with  a  mat  over  each  glass,  and  repeat  the  water- 
ings occasionally,  once  or  twice  a  week,  according  to  the  degree  of 
warmth  in  the  bed,  and  temperature  of  the  weather  ;  but  let  modera- 
tion be  always  observed  in  performing  this  work,  especially  when 
newly  planted. 

When  the  plants  are  well  taken  with  the  ground  and  growing 
freely,  give  them  plenty  of  air,  by  raising  the  glasses  on  one  side, 
and  when  they  have  grown  so  large  as  to  run  out  under  the  glasses, 
let  these  be  raised  on  brickbats,  stones,  or  pieces  of  wood,  to  give  full 
liberty  to  the  plants,  and  do  not  take  them  off  totally  till  towards  the 
end  of  May. 

Cucumber  and  melon  seeds  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  this 
month,  on  ridges  made  as  above,  and  protected  with  glasses  j  these 
will  be  much  earlier  than  if  sown  in  the  beginning  of  May  in  the 
open  ground,  and  much  more  profitable  to  market-gardeners. 


PLANTING  CAULIFLOWERS. 

In  order  to  have  cauliflowers  in  good  perfection,  you  must  be  pro- 
vided with  stout  early  plants,  such  as  are  strong,  and  in  the  middle 
States,  perfectly  fit  for  planting  out,  early  this  month:  being  fur- 
nished with  these,  select  a  piece  of  very  rich  loam,  rather  inclining 
to  moisture,  but  by  no  means  wet,,  and  such  as  will  not  be  subject 
either  to  burn  or  become  stiff  and  bound  by  severe  drought,  always 
avoiding  sand  or  clay,  as  much  as  possible ;  give  it  at  least  four  or 
five  inches  deep  of  well  rotted  cow-dung,  or  if  this  cannot  be  had, 
other  old  manure;  dig  or  trench  it  one  good  spade  or  eighteen  inches 
deep,  incorporating  the  manure  effectually  therewith,  as  you  proceed 
in  digging  or  trenching. 

Then  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  take  up  your  plants,  which 


330  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

were  managed  as  directed  in  the  preceding  month,  with  a  transplanter 
or  hollow  trowel,  one  by  one,  preserving  as  much  earth  as  possible 
about  their  roots,  and  plant  them  down  to  their  leaves  in  rows  three 
feet  asunder,  and  the  same  distance  plant  from  plant,  in  the  rows, 
forming  a  little  hollow  (basin  like)  about  eight  inches  over,  and  two 
deep,  round  every  plant  to  receive  water  occasionally,  till  fit  for  earth- 
ing up;  and  which,  immediately  previous  to  landing  the  plants, 
should  be  filled  with  good  compost  earth,  if  convenient.  Then  give 
each  a  little  water,  which  repeat  at  intervals  of  three  or  four  days, 
till  in  a  vigorous  growing  state,  and  afterwards  occasionally.  Or, 
after  having  first  manured  and  dug  the  ground,  you  may  make 
trenches  as  if  for  celery,  in  the  direction  of  north  and  south ;  and 
in  the  bottom  of  each  lay  four  inches  deep  of  well  rotted  cow-dung, 
cast  thereon  five  or  six  inches  of  earth,  and  point  over  the  whole  with 
a  spade,  mixing  the  earth  and  dung  effectually :  in  these  trenches 
plant  your  cauliflower  plants  at  the  above  distances,  and  give  occa- 
sional waterings  as  before. 

To  attempt  planting  cauliflowers  in  poor  ground  would  be  labor 
in  vain;  they  love,  nay,  they  require  a  deep,  very  rich,  and  moist 
loam,  and  agree  exceedingly  well  with  large  quantities  of  manure. 

You  should  be  provided  with  hand-glasses,  garden-pots,  or  covers 
made  of  two  boards,  each  a  foot  long,  and  nailed  together  at  right 
angles,  to  cover  every  plant  at  night  and  in  very  severe  weather  for 
two  or  three  weeks  after  planting ;  observing  to  take  them  off  early 
each  morning,  except  the  weather  is  desperate,  and  never  to  keep  a 
dark  covering  over  the  plants  longer  than  necessity  requires. 

This  occasional  protection  is  necessary  to  keep  them  in  a  constant 
and  uninterrupted  state  of  vegetation,  for  if  stunted,  at  this  period, 
by  frost  or  too  much  cold,  many  will  button,  and  very  few  produce 
large  flowers. 

The  early  cauliflower  plants,  under  hand-glass,  should  have  earth 
drawn  up  to  their  stems.  This  will  be  of  a  great  service  in  promot- 
ing a  strong  forward  growth. 

The  hand  or  bell-glasses  may  still  be  continued  over  these  plants 
at  night,  and  in  cold  wet  weather;  but  in  warm  days,  and  when  there 
are  mild  rains,  let  them  be  exposed  to  the  free  air ;  when  the  plants 
are  considerably  advanced  in  growth,  the  glasses  should  be  raised  pro- 
portionably  high  on  props;  first  drawing  a  border  of  earth,  two  or 
three  inches  high  or  more,  round  each  plant;  then  place  the  props 
upon  that,  and  set  the  glasses  thereon;  but  towards  the  end  of  this 
month,  or  beginning  of  next,  they  should  be  taken  entirely  away. 

The  above  instructions  will  suit  any  part  of  the  Union,  except  as 
to  time  of  planting,  which  should,  in  every  place,  be  on  the  eve  of 
the  first  brisk  spring  vegetation,  when  no  danger  can  be  apprehended 
from  subsequent  frosts ;  and  where  this  can  be  done  in  December, 
January,  or  February  with  safety,  so  much  the  better. 

Young  cauliflower  plants,  raised  from  seed  sown  last  month,  should 
now  be  pricked  out  into  nursery  beds,  or  some  in  a  hot-bed,  to  for- 
ward them  for  final  transplanting.  (See  page  192.) 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  331 


SOWING  CAULIFLOWER  SEED. 

Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown,  any  time  this  month,  in  the  open 
ground,  to  raise  plants  for  heading  in  October,  &c. 
For  the  further  treatment  of  cauliflowers,  see  May. 

CABBAGES. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible  plant  out  your  general  crops 
of  cabbage  plants,  observing  to  set  all  the  early  heading  kinds  at  the 
distance  of  two  feet  every  way,  and  all  the  late  sorts  at  that  of 
three  feet. 

As  to  soil  and  preparation, 'the  nearer  you  approach  in  both  to 
that  directed  for  cauliflowers,  the  larger  cabbages  you  will  have;  but 
where  they  are  desired  very  early,  you  must  adapt  the  soil  and  situa- 
tion to  that  purpose. 

Some  of  the  cabbage  and  savoy  plants  which  were  sown  in  March, 
for  a  succession  of  young  summer  and  autumn  cabbages,  and  a  for- 
ward autumn  crop  of  savoys,  should  be  thinned  out  and  pricked  into 
nursery-beds,  to  get  strength  before  they  are  planted  out  for  good. 

Let  this  be  done  when  the  plants  have  leaves  one  or  two  inches 
broad ;  prepare  beds  of  good  earth  about  three  feet  and  a  half  wide, 
in  an  open  situation,  and  let  the  largest  plants  be  drawn  out  regu- 
larly from  the  seed-bed,  and  planted  in  those  prepared  for  them,  at 
four  or  five  inches  distance  every  way.  Water  them  immediately, 
and  repeat  it  occasionally  in  dry  weather. 

The  smaller  plants  which  are  left  in  the  seed-beds,  should  be 
cleared  from  weeds  ;  give  them  a  good  watering  to  settle  the  earth 
about  their  roots,  loosened  in  drawing  out  the  others ;  they  will  then 
grow  strong,  and  in  two  or  three  weeks  be  in  fine  order  for  trans- 
plantation. 

SOWING  CABBAGE   SEEDS. 

Sow  now  a  general  assortment  of  cabbage  seeds,  such  as  early 
York,  early  sugar-loaf,  and  early  Battersea,  to  succeed  those  sown 
in  March,  and  large  late  Battersea,  large  late  sugar-loaf,  flat  Dutch, 
drum-head,  large  English,  large  Scotch,  flat-sided,  and  Savoys,  for 
autumn  and  winter  use.  Sow  also  the  seed  of  the  red  pickling  cab- 
bage, to  succeed  those  sown  in  the  former  months.  The  earlier  you 
sow  all  these  kinds,  the  larger  and  better  cabbages  will  you  have. 

Sow  these  seeds  tolerably  thin,  in  open  beds  or  borders,  and  keep 
them  free  from  weeds,  till  fit  for  planting  out ;  or  if  they  are  trans- 
planted into  other  beds,  when  about  four  inches  high,  it  will  greatly 
strengthen  them,  and  render  them  in  a  much  better  condition  for 
final  transplanting. 

SOWING   BORECOLE,  OR   FRINGED   CABBAGE. 

The  varieties  of  this  are — 1.  G-reen  curled.  2.  Red  curled. 
3.  Thick-leaved  curled.  4.  Finely  fringed.  5.  Siberian,  or  Scotch 
kale. 


332  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

For  the  garden  these  may  be  treated  in  every  respect  as  winter 
cabbages  ;  they  are  extremely  hardy,  and  never  so  delicious  as  when 
rendered  tender  by  smart  frosts ;  they  are  very  valuable  plants  to 
cultivate,  particularly  in  the  more  southerly  States,  as  they  will  there 
be  in  the  greatest  perfection  during  the  winter  months;  they  will 
also,  if  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil  and  in  a  sheltered  warm  situation, 
bear  the  winters  of  the  middle  States,  and  may  be  kept  in  great  per- 
fection in  the  eastern  States  if  managed  as  directed  on  page  200, 
which  see.  The  deliciousness  of  their  sprouts  in  spring,  surpasses 
everything  of  the  kind,  which  they  produce  in  great  abundance. 
The  seeds  of  either  sort  may  be  sown  any  time  this  month,  and 
treated  in  every  particular  as  directed  for  cabbages. 

The  green  and  red  borecole,  is  also  a  very  useful  green  food  for 
sheep ;  because,  it  is  not  only  hardy,  but  if  sown  in  time,  will  grow 
three  or  four  feet  high,  and  may  in  deep  snows  be  got  at  by  these 
animals,  who  frequently  suffer  much  for  want  of  food  in  such  cases. 

TURNIP-CABBAGE,  AND  TURNIP-ROOTED  CABBAGE. 

The  turnip-cabbage  produces  its  bulb  or  protuberance,  which  ap- 
proaches to  roundness,  on  the  stem  above  ground,  immediately  under 
the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when  young,  and  about  the  size  of  a  tole- 
rably large  garden  turnip.  The  bulb  or  protuberance  must  be 
stripped  of  its  thick  fibrous  rind,  and  then  it  may  be  treated  and 
used  as  a  turnip.  Some  of  their  bulbs  grow  to  twenty-three  inches 
in  circumference  and  weigh  upwards  of  twelve  pounds. 

The  seeds  may  now  be  sown  and  the  plants  afterwards  treated  as 
you  do  cabbage,  only  that  in  earthing  up  the  plants  when  grown  to  a 
good  size,  you  must  be  cautious  not  to  cover  the  globular  part,  which 
is  to  be  eaten.  They  are  much  more  hardy  than  turnips,  and  in 
Europe  are  cultivated  for  the  feeding  of  cows  and  sheep,  as  well  as 
for  table  use  j  in  either  case  they  treat  them  as  they  do  cabbages,  or 
sow  them  like  turnips,  and  afterwards  hoe  them  out  to  proper  dis- 
tances. 

The  turnip-rooted  cabbage  has  an  oblong,  thick  root,  pretty  much 
of  the  form  of  the  winter  radish,  but  very  large,  and  is  a  valuable 
article  to  cultivate  for  cattle,  as  it  produces,  with  proper  care,  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  tons  per  acre.  It  is  extremely  hardy,  and  very 
seldom  injured  by  frost,  and  would  be  found  an  excellent  sheep  food 
in  April,  where  the  frosts  are  not  overly  desperate.  It  merits  atten- 
tion from  the  farmer,  and  is  frequently  used  for  culinary  purposes  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  turnip-cabbage.  The  tops  and  sprouts  make 
delicious  greens  in  spring. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS   AND   JERUSALEM   KALE. 

The  Brussels  sprouts  is  an  open-headed  cabbage,  grows  very  high, 
and  is  remarkable  for  producing  a  great  quantity  of  excellent  sprouts 
in  spring. 

The  Jerusalem  kale  is  one  of  the  most  hardy  plants  of  the  cab- 
bage tribe ;  it  never  heads,  but  the  leaves,  after  being  pinched  by  a 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  333 

smart  frost,  make  most  delicious  greens,  and  boil  greener  than  any 
other  of  the  cabbage  kind ;  it  bears  a  very  severe  winter,  and  affords 
a  grateful  supply  when  most  other  plants  perish. 

Both  these  kinds  are  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as  cabbages ; 
their  seeds  may  now  be  sown ;  but  let  it  be  observed,  that  they  stand 
the  winter  frosts  better  when  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil  than  in  any 
other. 

BROCCOLI. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  broccoli,  which  are  all  but  late 
heading  varieties  of  the  cauliflower,  such  as  the  Purple  Cape,  the 
Walcheren  and  white  Cape,  the  green  and  black  broccoli,  with  some 
others ;  but  the  purple  and  white  Cape  are  in  most  estimation.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  if  not  before, 
and  afterwards,  when  of  due  size,  pricked  out  in  beds  at  the  distance 
of  four  inches  apart  and  watered,  there  to  remain  till  arrived  of  suf- 
ficient strength  for  planting  in  the  quarters  where  intended  to  pro- 
duce their  flowers  or  heads. 

The  early  purple  broccoli,  if  sown  early  in  this  month  and  planted 
as  you  do  cabbage,  in  good  rich  ground,  will  produce  fine  heads  in 
October  or  November,  very  little  inferior  to  cauliflowers,  and  by 
many  preferred  to  them ;  the  white  will  not  flower  so  early,  and  in 
the  middle  and  eastern  States  must  be  taken  up  in  November  and 
managed  as  directed  in  that  month,  by  which  a  supply  of  this  very 
.delicious  vegetable  may  be  had  in  great  perfection  during  all  the 
winter  and  spring. 

In  such  of  the  southern  States  as  their  winters  are  not  more  severe 
than  in  England,  they  will  stand  in  the  open  ground,  and  continue 
to  produce  their  fine  flowers  from  October  to  April.  In  the  middle, 
and  especially  in  the  eastern  States,  if  the  seeds  are  sown  early  in 
March  on  a  hot-bed,  and  forwarded  as  is  done  with  cauliflowers  and 
early  cabbage  plants,  and  planted  out  finally  in  April,  it  would  be 
the  most  certain  method  of  obtaining  large  and  early  flowers.  All 
these  kinds  produce  heads  exactly  like  the  cauliflower,  only  that  some 
are  of  a  purple  color,  some  green,  some  black,  and  the  white  kind  so 
exactly  resembles  the  true  cauliflower,  as  to  be  scarcely  distinguished 
therefrom,  either  in  color  or  taste. 

If  any  plants  were  raised  in  the  preceding  months,  let  some  of 
them  be  pricked  out  now  into  nursery  beds,  to  get  strength  for  plant- 
ing out  finally. 

PEAS. 

Continue  to  sow  successional  crops  of  peas  every  ten  or  twelve 
days,  as  directed  in  pages  140  and  194,  to  which  I  refer  you  for  in- 
structions. 

You  may  now  sow  the  dwarf-sugar  and  the  dwarf  Spanish-peas; 
they  are  both  plentiful  bearers,  and  do  not  require  to  be  rodded,  as 
they  never  rise  more  than  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high. 
They  are  to  be  sown  in  drills  two  feet  asunder,  very  thin,  and  covered 
about  two  inches  deep. 


334  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

Bishop's  dwarf  pea  is,  perhaps,  the  most  prolific  and  profitable  of 
the  whole  family ;  it  bears  most  abundantly,  and  is  very  delicious ;  it 
rises  to  the  height  of  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  feet,  according  to 
the  soil,  and  may,  or  may  not  be  rodded,  but  if  having  some  support, 
the  produce  will  be  the  greater. 

The  tall  crooked  sugar  pea  is  particularly  worthy  of  cultivation, 
and  should  now  be  sown;  its  green  pods,  when  young,  are  boiled  like 
kidney  -beans,  and  are  uncommonly  sweet  and  delicious ;  these  grow 
to  a  considerable  height,  and  require  rods  from  seven  to  eight  feet 
high,  and  to  be  sown  in  drills  at  least  four  feet  asunder. 

If  you  sowed  no  peas  in  the  preceding  months,  the  early  frame,  early 
Warwick,  and  Charleton  kinds  should  now  be  sown  for  first  crops ;  and 
for  succession,  the  Champion  of  England,  or  the  dwarf  marrowfat,  and 
blue  imperial,  and  blue  Prussian  kinds.  The  Champion  should  be 
planted  in  drills -at  the  distance  of  six  feet  at  least,  and  be  rodded  or 
sticked  to  the  height  of  six  feet  or  more,  by  which  you  may  expect 
very  abundant  crops.  Rods  from  four  to  five  feet  high  will  answer 
for  the  early  frame  and  other  kinds,  and  also  for  the  pearl  peas  and 
Essex-reading,  all  of  which  are  very  prolific  bearers. 

Draw  earth  to  such  rows  of  peas  as  are  up  and  advanced  a  little  in 
height,  which  will  strengthen  the  plants  and  forward  them  greatly  in 
their  growth. 

This  earthing  should  always  be  performed,  for  the  first  time,  when 
the  plants  are  about  three  or  four  inches  high. 

Be  very  particular  to  rod  or  place  sticks  to  such  rows  of  peas  as 
have  attained  the  height  of  five  or  six  inches ;  if  this  is  not  timely 
attended  to,  the  crops  will  be  greatly  injured,  for  peas  are  never  so 
productive  as  when  rodded  before  they  begin  to  fall  to  either  one  side 
or  the  other.  For  the  method  of  doing  which,  see  page  195. 

PLANTING  AND  EARTHING  UP  BEANS. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month  you  may  plant  long-pod  and 
Windsor  beans,  with  every  other  variety  of  that  species.  These  are 
always  most  productive  when  planted  early ;  but  if  you  are  desirous 
of  a  succession  of  this  kind  of  bean  as  long  as  possible,  your  late  crops 
must  be  of  the  early  Mazagan,  early  Lisbon,  or  green  Genoa  kinds, 
but  more  particularly  the  latter,  as  it  bears  our  summer  heat  better 
than  any  of  the  whole  family.  For  particulars,  see  page  195. 

Such  beans  as  are  advanced  in  growth  to  the  height  of  four  or  five 
inches  must  have  some  earth  drawn  up  to  their  stems,  which  will 
greatly  refresh  and  strengthen  them. 

LETTUCES. 

Transplant  lettuces  of  every  kind  that  require  it,  where  they  stand 
too  close ;  both  those  of  the  winter  standing  or  such  as  were  sown 
in  any  of  the  former  months,  and  are  now  grown  to  a  sufficient  size. 

Choose  a  spot  of  good  ground  for  these  plants,  and  if  moderately 
dunged  it  will  prove  beneficial  to  their  growth;  dig  the  ground 
evenly  one  spade  deep,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth,  then  plant  the 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  335 

lettuces  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  distant  each  way ;  water  them 
immediately,  and  repeat  it  occasionally  in  dry  weather  till  they  have 
taken  good  root. 

For  the  method  of  planting  the  kinds  most  deserving  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  other  particulars,  see  page  196. 

Continue  to  sow  a  variety  of  the  best  kinds  of  lettuce  once  every 
two  weeks,  that  there  may  be  a  regular  succession.  Dig  a  spot  of 
rich  ground  for  them  in  an  open  situation,  sow  the  seed  even,  not  too 
thick,  and  rake  them  in  lightly.  Scatter  a  few  seeds  among  general 
crops,  and  they  will  grow  large  and  fine. 

SMALL   SALADING. 

Sow  small  salading  generally  about  once  every  week  or  fortnight ; 
the  sorts  are  lettuce,  cresses,  mustard,  rape,  radish,  &c. 

Dig  a  bed  of  light  mellow  earth  for  these  seeds,  and  rake  the  sur- 
face fine.  Draw  some  flat,  shallow  drills,  sow  the  seeds  therein,  each 
kind  separate,  and  cover  them  lightly  with  earth. 

Water  them  moderately  if  the  weather  should  be  dry,  which  will 
greatly  promote  their  growth. 

For  more  particulars  respecting  small  salading,  see  pages  132  and 
199. 

RADISHES. 

Thin  the  general  crops  of  radishes  where  they  have  arisen  too 
thick,  leaving  the  plants  about  two  or  three  inches  asunder,  and 
clear  them  from  weeds. 

Radish  seed,  both  of  the  short-topped,  salmon-colored,  and  white 
and  scarlet  turnip  sorts,  should  be  sown  at  three  different  times  this 
month,  by  which  means  a  constant  supply  of  young  radishes  may  be 
obtained,  allowing  about  twelve  days  between  each  time  of  sowing ; 
choosing  at  this  season  an  open  situation  for  the  seed ;  sow  it  evenly 
on  the  surface,  cover,  or  rake  it  well  in,  and  the  plants  will  come  up 
in  a  few  days,  and  be  of  proper  size  for  drawing  in  three  or  four 
weeks. 

The  crops  of  early  radishes  in  general  should  be  often  watered  in 
dry  weather ;  this  will  promote  their  swelling  freely,  and  will  prevent 
their  growing  hot  and  sticky. 

Sow  a  thin  sprinkling  of  radish-seed  among  other  low-growing 
crops ;  such  will  generally  be  found  very  good. 

Turnip-rooted  radishes,  of  both  the  white  and  red  kinds,  should 
now  be  sown,  and  treated  as  directed  on  page  198.  Thin  such  of 
them  as  were  sown  last  month  to  two  or  three  inches  apart.  You 
may,  likewise,  sow  some  of  the  white  Spanish  radishes ;  but  the  gene- 
ral time  for  sowing  that,  and  the  black  winter  kind,  is  June,  July, 
and  August. 

SOWING   SPINAGE. 

Continue  now  to  sow  seed  of  the  round-leaved  spinage  every  ten 
or  twelve  days,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on  page  198,  which 


336  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

see.     Hoe  the  spinage  sowed  in  the  former  months,  and  thin  the 
plants  to  three,  four,  or  five  inches  distance. 


CARROTS   AND   PARSNEPS. 

Carrots  may  now  be  sown  for  a  full  crop ;  but  in  order  to  have 
tolerable  sized  roots,  in  some  reasonable  time  in  summer,  let  the  seed 
be  sown  the  beginning  of  the  month. 

Where,  however,  a  supply  of  young  carrots  is  required,  it  is  pro- 
per to  perform  three  different  sowings  this  month ;  the  first  in  the 
beginning,  the  second  about  the  middle,  and  the  third  towards  the 
latter  end. 

Parsneps  may  also  be  sown  in  the  beginning  or  middle  of  this 
month ;  but  if  later,  the  crop  will  not  succeed  well,  at  least  not  to 
have  large  swelling  roots  in  full  perfection. 

For  the  method  of  sowing  both  carrots  and  parsneps,  see  page  199. 

Note. — There  are  several  varieties  of  the  garden  carrot ;  differing 
in  the  color  of  their  roots ;  such  as  the  orange,  white,  yellow,  and 
dark  red.  These  variations  may  be  continued  by  taking  care  not  to 
mix  them  together  in  the  same  garden.  There  is  another  variety 
called  the  horn-carrot,  differing  in  the  form  of  its  root,  the  lower 
part  terminating  in  a  round,  abrupt  manner,  and  not  tapering  off 
gradually  like  the  others ;  this  is  the  earliest  sort,  is  of  an  orange 
color,  and  very  delicious;  and  should  always  be  sown  for  a  first  crop. 
The  long  orange  carrot  is  the  best  for  a  principal  crop.  They  all  de- 
light and  thrive  in  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam. 

CELERY. 

The  young  celery  plants,  arising  from  the  seed  sown  in  February 
or  March  for  an  early  crop,  will  be  fit  to  prick  out  now,  some  in  the 
beginning,  and  others  towards  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the  month, 
into  a  nursery-bed  of  rich  light  earth,  or  in  a  hot-bed,  to  forward 
them  still  more. 

Prepare  a  spot  of  ground,  form  it  into  three  or  four  feet  wide  beds, 
and  rake  the  surface  smooth ;  then  thin  out  a  quantity  of  the  best 
plants  from  the  seed-bed,  and  plant  them  into  the  above,  at  about 
three  inches  distance ;  or  you  may  prick  some  of  the  earliest  into  a 
moderate  hot-bed  to  forward  them ;  give  a  gentle  watering,  and  re- 
peat it  occasionally  till  the  plants  have  taken  fresh  root. 

They  should  remain  in  these  beds  a  month  or  five  weeks,  to  get 
strength  before  they  are  planted  out  finally  into  the  trenches. 

As  these  early  sown  plants,  after  they  become  fit  for  use,  will  not 
continue  long  before  they  run  up  for  seed,  there  should  not  be  more 
of  them  raised  or  planted  out  than  are  necessary  for  an  early  supply. 

Sow  some  celery  seed  in  the  first  or  second  week  of  this  month,  to 
raise  plants  for  a  general  cropj  and  to  succeed  those  which  were  sown 
in  March. 

Dig  for  this  purpose  a  bed  of  rich  light  earth,  and  make  the  sur- 
face even ;  sow  the  seed  thereon  tolerably  thick,  and  rake  it  in  light- 
ly ;  in  dry  weather  give  frequent  moderate  watering,  both  before  and 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  331 

after  the  plants  come  up,  which  being  very  essential  should  not  be 
omitted. 

The  best  kinds  to  sow  are  the  white  solid  and  red-stalked  celery, 
both  of  which  are  very  fine  and  blanch  delightfully. 

Those  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  a  hot-bed,  to  raise  early 
plants,  and  wish  to  have  celery  as  soon  as  possible,  will  find  the  fol- 
lowing method  of  some  importance.  Make  choice  of  a  piece  of  very 
rich,  light  loam,  that  lies  well  to  the  sun ;  give  it  a  good  coat  of  ma- 
nure, and  dig  it  carefully  in  one  spade  deep  at  least ;  then  at  the  dis- 
tance of  four  feet  form  trenches,  north  and  south,  about  ten  inches 
deep,  eight  wide  at  bottom,  and  the  edges  sloping  outward  regularly 
towards  the  centre  of  the  ridges  formed  by  the  earth  thrown  up,  the 
better  to  admit  the  sun  to  the  seeds  and  plants ;  in  the  bottom  of 
these  trenches  lay  three  inches  of  very  old  horse-dung;  cast  over 
this  the  same  depth  of  earth,  and  with  your  spade  dig  and  incorpo- 
rate both  well  together;  cover  the  whole  with  mould  previously 
made  fine  with  the  rake,  and  draw  a  shallow  drill  with  your  finger 
in  the  centre  of  each  trench,  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  in  which  sow  your  seed  very  thin,  and  draw  the  earth  lightly 
over  it,  just  to  cover  the  seed  and  no  more.  This  should  be  done  as 
early  in  this,  or  the  preceding  month,  as  the  ground  can  be  got  to 
work  freely. 

When  the  plants  are  up  they  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and 
when  grown  a  couple  of  inches,  thinned  to  the  distance  of  five  from 
one  another,  always  leaving  the  strongest  and  most  promising. 

When  about  eight  inches  high  draw  to  their  roots,  on  each  side, 
three  inches  deep  of  mould,  and  let  them  grow  on  till  of  sufficient 
size  to  earth  them  up  for  blanching ;  then  they  are  to  be  earthed  in 
the  general  way.  Plants  thus  treated  will  arrive  at  perfection  three 
weeks  earlier  than  those  managed  in  the  common  method. 

ASPARAGUS. 

The  forking,  dressing,  sowing,  and  planting  of  asparagus,  if  not 
done  last  month,  should  be  performed  the  first  week  in  this,  particu- 
larly the  forking  and  dressing;  for  the  shoots  will  be  advancing 
rapidly,  and  if  not  done  in  time  they  will  be  greatly  injured,  either 
by  omitting  it  altogether,  or  performing  it  at  an  untimely  season. 
New  plantations  ought  to  be  made  in  the  early  part  of  the  month  ; 
the  seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  therein,  but  the  earlier  the  better. 
For  the  methods  of  doing  the  whole,  see  pages  201, 202,  and  203. 

SOWING  BEET  SEED. 

Beet  of  every  kind  may  now  be  sown  with  good  success.  For 
the  kinds  and  methods  of  sowing  them,  see  page  203. 

SOWING  ONION  AND  LEEK  SEED. 

Onion  seed,  if  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  agreeably  to 
the  directions  given  on  page  204,  will  arrive  at  a  tolerable  size  for 
22 


338  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

use  the  same  season ;  but  if  sown  for  the  purpose  of  raising  seed 
onions,  or  small  bulbs  for  planting  next  year,  the  middle  of  the  month 
will  be  the  proper  time,  or  even  towards  the  latter  end.  Seeds  for 
the  latter  purpose  should  be  sown  pretty  thick,  and  in  poor  gravelly 
ground ;  otherwise  they  will  grow  too  large,  or  run  to  tops  and  not 
bulb  well.  -V 

You  may  now  sow  a  principal  crop  of  leeks,  either  in  drills,  or  as 
directed  for  onions  on  page  204 ;  if  in  drills,  they  may  be  landed,  as 
you  do  celery,  when  arrived  at  full  size ;  or  if  in  beds,  they  should 
be  transplanted  in  June  or  July,  as  then  directed. 


PLANTING  SEED  ONIONS. 

All  your  seed  onions  ought  to  be  planted,  if  not  done  in  the  pre- 
ceding months,  as  early  in  this  as  possible;  for  they  never  succeed 
so  well  as  by  early  planting.  (See  page  205.) 

GARLIC,  ROCOMBOLE,  SHALLOTS,  AND  CHIVES. 

These  useful  culinary  and  medicinal  plants,  if  not  attended  to  in 
the  former  months,  should  now  be  planted  as  early  as  possible,  and 
as  directed  on  page  206. 

TURNIPS. 

You  may  sow  any  time  this  month,  a  full  summer  crop  of  the  early 
Dutch,  early  stone,  or  early  green  turnip;  they  will  succeed  very 
well,  and  being  of  a  quick  growth,  will  arrive  at  good  perfection 
before  they  are  overtaken  by  the  violent  summer  heats. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  open  quarters  or  beds,  after  the  ground  has  been 
well  dug  and  sufficiently  manured,  tolerably  thin,  and  as  evenly  as 
possible;  if  the  ground  is  dry,  tread  down  the  seed  regularly,  and 
rake  it  in  with  a  light  and  even  hand. 

Hoe  and  thin  the  turnips  which  were  sown  last  month,  leaving  the 
plants  six,  seven,  or  eight  inches  distant  from  each  other,  according 
to  the  richness  of  the  soil. 

SALSAFY, 

Salsafy,  or  Tragopogon  porrifolium,  is  a  plant  by  some  highly 
valued  for  its  white  eatable  root,  which  grows  a  foot  or  more  long, 
and  in  shape  like  a  carrot  or  parsnip.  Some  have  carried  their  fond- 
ness for  it  so  far  as  to  call  it  a  vegetable  oyster.  Its  method  of  culti- 
vation, &c.,  you  will  find  on  page  207  :  the  seed  may  be  sown  with 
good  success  any  time  this  month. 

SCORZONERA,  OR  VIPER' S-GR ASS. 

There  are  nineteen  species  of  scorzonera  described ;  but  the  Scor- 
zonera  hispanica  is  that  principally  cultivated  in  gardens,  for  its 
roots;  which,  if  sown  in  this  month  in  drills,  and  covered  about  half 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  339 

an  inch  deep,  will  produce  fine  eatable  roots  for  autumn  and  winter 
use;  they  are  boiled  and  eaten  like  carrots,  &c.,  and  are  greatly 
esteemed  by  many.  When  the  plants  are  up,  they  must  be  thinned 
to  five  or  six  inches  apart,  and  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds. 
They  may  also  be  sown  broadcast,  in  three  or  four  feet  wide  beds, 
and,  when  up,  thin  them  to  six  or  seven  inches  distance  every  way. 

SKIRRET. 

The  Sium  sisarum,  or  skirret,  is  greatly  esteemed  as  a  garden 
vegetable;  its  root  is  composed  of  several  fleshy  tubers,  as  large  as  a 
man's  finger,  and  joining  together  at  top.  They  are  eaten  boiled, 
and  stewed  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt ;  or  rolled  in  flour  and  fried ; 
or  else  cold  with  oil  and  vinegar,  being  first  boiled.  They  have 
much  of  the  taste  and  flavor  of  a  parsnep,  but  a  great  deal  more 
palatable. 

This  plant  is  cultivated  two  ways ;  first  by  seed,  and  second  by 
slips  from  the  roots  :  the  former  method  I  think  the  more  eligible, 
because  the  roots  which  are  raised  from  seeds  generally  grow  larger 
than  those  raised  by  slips,  and  are  less  subject  to  be  sticky. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  in  the  be- 
ginning of  this  month,  either  broadcast  or  in  drills ;  the  ground 
should  be  light  and  moist,  for  in  dry  land  the  roots  are  generally 
small,  unless  the  season  proves  wet. 

The  seeds  may  be  sown  broadcast  or  in  drills,  and  covered  half  an 
inch  deep ;  they  will  rise  in  five  or  six  weeks,  when  they  must  be 
carefully  weeded,  and  thinned  to  the  distance  of  six  inches  asunder. 
In  autumn,  when  the  leaves  begin  to  decay,  the  roots  will  be  fit  for 
use,  and  continue  so  till  they  begin  to  shoot  in  the  spring.  They 
may  be  taken  up  on  the  approach  of  winter,  and  preserved  like  car- 
rots. 

To  propagate  this  plant  by  offsets,  dig  up  the  old  roots  in  spring, 
before  they  begin  to  shoot,  and  slip  off  the  side  shoots,  preserving  an 
eye  or  bud  to  each ;  plant  them  in  rows  one  foot  asunder,  and  six 
inches  distant  in  the  rows  ;  and  in  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use  as 
before.  Or  you  may  separate  the  roots  that  you  have  preserved  all 
winter,  and  plant  them  in  the  same  manner. 

SOWING   COMMON   AND   LARGE-ROOTED   OR   HAMBURG   PARSLEY. 

Sow  a  full  crop  of  the  common  and  curled  parsley ;  and  also  of 
the  large-rooted  parsley,  as  directed  last  month,  on  page  207. 

SEA   KALE. 

If  you  have  yet  omitted  sowing  the  Crambe  maritima,  or  sea  kale, 
it  may  be  sown  the  beginning  of  this  month.  For  its  general  cul- 
ture, see  page  208,  &c. 


340  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 


CORIANDER   AND   CHERVIL. 

Coriander  and  chervil  may  yet  be  sown,  as  directed  on  page  208, 
which  see.  The  latter  particularly,  is  by  many  esteemed  in  salads 
and  soups. 

DRESSING,  PLANTING,  AND    SOWING   ARTICHOKES. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  if  omitted  in  the  last,  you  may 
give  a  spring  dressing  to  your  artichokes,  and  it  will  be  a  very  pro- 
per time  to  make  new  plantations  of  that  delicious  vegetable,  or  to 
sow  the  seed  of  it.  For  full  instructions  as  to  the  performance  of 
all  the  above,  see  pages  211,  212,  &c. 

CARDOONS   AND   ALEXANDERS. 

Cardoons  and  Alexanders  may  yet  be  sown,  as  directed  on  page 
214.  For  their  further  culture,  see  June  and  July. 

PROPAGATING   VARIOUS   POT   AND   MEDICINAL   HERBS. 

For  the  various  kinds  of  pot  and  medicinal  herbs,  and  the  different 
methods  of  propagating  them,  either  of  which  will  answer  extremely 
well  in  this  month,  but  more  particularly  that  of  sowing  the  seeds, 
see  page  215,  &c. 

DILL  AND   AZORIAN   FENNEL. 

For  an  account  of,  and  the  method  of  propagating  Dill  and  Fino- 
chio  or  Azorian  fennel,  see  page  216. 

HORSERADISH. 

Horseradish  may  now  be  planted  with  good  success,  but  the  ear- 
lier in  the  month  that  it  is  done,  the  better.  For  the  method  of  pro- 
pagating it,  see  page  217. 

RHUBARB. 

For  the  general  culture  of  rhubarb,  see  page  219.  The  seed,  if 
neglected  to  be  sown  in  the  former  months,  will  still  succeed,  by 
sowing  it  in  the  early  part  of  this,  but  the  plants  from  late  sowings 
particularly,  will  require  to  be  shaded,  when  up,  from  too  powerful 
sunshine,  till  they  have  attained  strength. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  it  may  be  successfully  propagated 
by  offsets  from  the  root. 

JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 

Jerusalem  artichokes  may  still  be  cultivated,  as  directed  last  month, 
on  page  222. 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  341 


POTATOES. 

If  omitted  in  the  last  month,  plant  potatoes  in  the  beginning  of 
this,  as  directed  on  page  217. 

NASTURTIUM. 

The  Tropdeolum  majus,  or  large  nasturtium,  is  very  deserving  of 
cultivation,  as  well  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its  large  and  nume- 
rous orange-colored  flowers,  as  their  excellence  in  salads,  and  their 
use  in  garnishing  dishes.  The  green  berries  or  seeds  of  this  plant, 
which  it  produces  abundantly,  make  one  of  the  nicest  pickles  that 
can  possibly  be  conceived ;  in  the  estimation  of  many,  they  are  supe- 
rior to  capers. 

There  are,  of  the  nasturtium,  a  major  and  minor  kind;  the  former 
being  of  a  large  running  growth,  and  the  most  productive,  is  the 
proper  sort  for  the  above  purposes. 

A  drill  may  be  drawn  for  them  as  practised  for  peas,  and  the  seeds 
dropped  therein,  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from  one 
another,  and  covered  with  earth  near  an  inch  deep.  When  the 
plants  are  grown  about  six  inches,  they  should  have  sticks  placed  to 
them  to  run  upon.  Or  they  may  be  sown  near  hedges,  fences,  or 
palings  of  any  kind,  on  which  they  can  climb  and  have  support,  for 
they  will  always  be  more  productive  in  this  way  than  when  suffered 
to  trail  on  the  ground. 

LIQUORICE. 

The  early  part  of  this  month  is  a  very  good  season,  in  the  middle 
States,  for  planting  liquorice.  For  its  general  culture,  see  page 

218,  &c. 

SOWING  OKRA. 

The  Hibiscus  esculenta,  or  okra.  The  green  capsules  of  this  plant 
are  an  admirable  ingredient  in  soups,  and  its  ripe  seeds,  if  burned  and 
ground  like  coffee,  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  therefrom.  Numbers 
cultivate  it  for  that  purpose,  and  even  say  that  it  is  much  superior  to 
foreign  coffee,  particularly  as  it  does  not  affect  the  nervous  system 
like  the  latter. 

Between  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  this  month,  is  a  proper  time 
to  sow  the  seed  in  the  middle  States ;  and  in  the  eastern  States,  the 
early  part  of  May ;  or  generally,  it  may  be  sown,  with  certainty  of 
success,  at  the  time  that  Indian  corn  is  planted.  Draw  drills  about 
an  inch  deep  and  four  feet  asunder,  into  which  drop  the  seeds  at  the 
distance  of  eight  inches  from  one  another,  or  rather  drop  two  or  three 
in  each  place,  lest  the  one  should  not  grow,  and  cover  them  near  an 
inch  deep.  As  they  advance  in  growth,  earth  them  up  two  or  three 
times  as  you  do  peas,  and  they  will  produce  abundantly.  Some  plant 
or  sow  them  much  thinner  in  the  rows;  but  by  the  above  method 
you  will  have  more  in  quantity  and  as  good  in  quality. 


342  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 


CAPSICUMS  OR  RED  PEPPERS. 

Sow  capsicums  towards  the  end  of  this  month  on  a  warm  border, 
to  produce  plants  for  planting  out  towards  the  latter  end  of  May,  or 
beginning  of  June ;  the  large  heart-shaped  capsicum  is  in  the  greatest 
estimation  for  pickling,  but  the  small  upright  kinds  are  the  strongest 
for  pepper :  if  they  are  desired  at  an  early  season,  sow  them  on  a 
slight  hot-bed  the  beginning  of  this  month,  and  with  due  care  they 
will  be  fit  to  transplant,  where  they  are  to  remain,  towards  the  middle 
of  May.  In  the  eastern  States,  the  tenth  of  May  will  be  soon  enough 
to  sow  them  in  the  open  ground,  but  in  the  southern  States  they  may 
be  sown  any  time  this  month. 

TOMATOES,  OR  LOVE  APPLES. 

The  Solanum  lycopersicum,  tomato,  or  love  apple,  is  much  culti- 
vated for  its  fruit,  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts  an  agree- 
able acid  flavor;  and  is  also  stewed  and  dressed  in  various  ways  and 
very  much  admired. 

The  seeds,  may,  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  be  sown  on 
a  warm  border,  pretty  thick,  and  about  the  end  of  May  will  be  fit  to 
plant  out ;  or  they  may  be  sown  where  intended  to  remain  for  fruit- 
ing. They  will  require  such  support  as  directed  for  nasturtiums,  on 
page  341,  and  must  be  planted  in  rows  five  feet  asunder,  and  a  foot 
or  fourteen  inches  distant,  plant  from  plant,  as  they  run  greatly. 
Some  lay  various  kinds  of  old  branches  in  their  way  for  them  to  run 
upon ;  however,  the  better  they  are  supported,  the  more  numerous 
will  their  fruit  be. 

This  fruit  may  be  had  much  earlier  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  the 
first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  in  March,  on  a  slight  hot-bed, 
and  forwarding  them  in  that  way;  they  bear  transplanting  well,  and 
may  be  set  out  finally  about  the  middle  of  May. 


EGG-PLANT. 

The  Solanum  melongena,  or  egg-plant.  There  are  two  varieties 
of  this  plant,  the  white  fruited  and  the  purple,  cultivated  for  culinary 
purposes ;  the  latter  kind  is  preferable,  and  when  sliced  and  nicely 
fried,  approaches,  both  in  taste  and  flavor,  nearer  to  that  of  a  very 
nice  fried  oyster  than  perhaps  any  other  plant. 

This  delicious  vegetable  may  be  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  on 
a  slight  hot-bed  the  beginning  of  this  month,  or  in  March ;  and 
towards  the  middle  or  latter  part  of  May,  they  should  be  planted  in 
a  rich  warm  piece  of  ground,  at  the  distance  of  two  feet  and  a  half 
asunder  every  way  for  the  purple,  or  two  feet  for  the  white  kind ; 
and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little  earth  drawn  up  to  their  stems,  when 
about  a  foot  high,  they  will  produce  plenty  of  fruit.  Or,  the  seed 
may  be  sown  about  the  end  of  this  month  on  a  warm  border,  and 
planted  out  finally  in  the  beginning  of  June;  but  these  will  be  rather 
late,  and  not  produce  fruit  so  abundantly  in  the  middle  or  eastern 


APRIL]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  343 

States,  as  by  the  former  method.  If  any  were  sown  last  month,  let 
them  be  pricked  out  into  a  fresh  hot-bed  the  middle  of  this,  at  the 
distance  of  four  or  five  inches,  to  gather  strength,  and  prepare  them 
for  planting  out  about  the  fifteenth  or  twentieth  of  May. 

SOWING  CUCUMBERS,  SQUASHES,  MUSK  AND  WATER-MELONS. 

In  the  middle  States  where  the  ground  is  light,  dry,  and  warm, 
you  may  in  the  last  week  of  this  month  sow  cucumbers,  squashes, 
water-melons,  and  early  musk-melons  in  the  open  ground,  agreeably 
to  the  directions  given  next  month.  If  the  weather  proves  favorable, 
and  they  are  not  attacked  by  frost  after  being  up,  they  will  succeed 
very  well;  but  if  you  have  hand  or  bell  glasses  for  their  protection, 
there  is  no  doubt  of  their  success. 

It  is  generally  observed,  that  cucumbers,  squashes,  and  melons  of 
every  kind,  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  as  early  as  Indian  corn ; 
but  they  are  certainly  somewhat  more  tender,  and  cannot  be  sown  in 
the  middle  States  with  great  certainty  of  success  before  the  eighth  of 
May. 

KIDNEY-BEANS. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  plant  a  first  crop 
of  kidney-beans  in  the  open  ground.  Select  a  warm,  dry,  and 
favorably  situated  spot,  and  having  dug  and  manured  it  properly, 
draw  drills  an  inch  deep,  and  two  feet  or  thirty  inches  asunder  ;  drop 
the  beans  therein  two  inches  apart,  and  draw  the  earth  equally  over 
them ;  do  not  cover  them  more  than  an  inch  deep,  for  at  this  early 
time  they  are  liable  to  rot  if  cold  or  wet  ensue.  The  kinds  proper 
to  be  sown  now,  are  the  early  cream-colored,  speckled,  yellow,  and 
white  dwarfs. 

ENDIVE. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  endive  as  a  salad,  may  now  sow  some  of 
the  seed,  as  directed  in  June,  and  blanch  it  when  of  sufficient  size 
in  the  manner  prescribed  in  August.  But  in  the  early  summer 
months,  lettuce  has  almost  generally  superseded  the  use  of  it. 

SORREL. 

Sow  now  a  sufficient  supply  of  the  broad-leaved  garden  sorrel,  and 
also  of  the  round-leaved  or  French  sorrel;  these,  or  either  of  them, 
may  be  sown  on  narrow  beds  or  borders  and  covered  lightly  or  raked 
in ;  when  the  plants  are  up  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  in  June 
you  may  transplant  them  either  in  rows  along  the  borders,  or  into 
three  or  four  feet  wide  beds,  at  the  distance  of  nine  inches,  plant 
from  plant,  every  way. 


344  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL 


GARDEN   ORACHE. 

The  Atriplex  hortensis,  or  garden  orache,  is  cultivated  for  culinary 
purposes,  being  used  as  spinage,  and  is  by  some  persons  preferred  to 
it.  The  French  particularly  are  very  partial  to  this  plant.  There 
are  three  or  four  varieties  of  it,  differing  only  in  color ;  one  is  of  a 
deep  green,  another  of  a  dark  purple,  and  a  third  with  green  leaves 
and  purple  borders.  The  green-leaved  variety,  however,  is  that  cul- 
tivated as  an  esculent  herb,  and  is  sown  at  the  same  time  and  treated 
in  every  respect  like  spinage. 


CARAWAY. 

The  Carum  carui,  or  common  caraway,  is  a  biennial  plant :  it  pro- 
duces its  seed,  which  is  highly  aromatic  and  grateful  to  the  stomach, 
the  second  year  after  sowing,  and  then  generally  dies.  It  may  now 
be  sown  on  a  bed,  either  broadcast  and  raked  in,  or  in  drills,  and 
covered  half  an  inch  deep ;  when  up,  thin  the  plants  to  six  inches 
distance,  and  in  the  June  twelve  months  following,  it  will  produce 
its  seed.  Some  of  the  plants  that  have  not  seeded  abundantly  will 
continue  to  bear  the  second  season.  Young  plants  rise  in  abundance 
where  the  seeds  fall  when  ripe,  and  these  will  shoot  and  produce  seed 
the  following  summer. 


DESTROY  WEEDS. 

Weeds  will  now  begin  to  appear  plentifully  from  seed  in  every  part 
of  the  garden.  The  utmost  diligence  should  be  used  to  destroy  them 
while  they  are  young,  before  they  get  the  start  of  the  crops,  espe- 
cially towards  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  the  month,  when,  if  a 
forward  season,  they  will  be  advancing  in  a  rapid  growth. 

Pay  particular  regard,  at  this  time,  to  your  small  crops,  as  onions, 
carrots,  parsneps,  and  the  like ;  weeds  grow  much  quicker  than  they 
do ;  and  if  they  are  not  weeded  in  time,  either  by  small  hoeing  or  hand- 
weeding,  such  will  occasion  much  labor  and  trouble  to  clear  them, 
and  sometimes  totally  destroy  the  crops. 

Take  the  opportunity  of  dry  weather,  and  hoe  the  ground  between 
the  rows  of  beans,  peas,  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  and  other  crops  that 
stand  wide,  to  destroy  the  weeds. 

A  large  piece  of  ground  may  soon  be  gone  over  with  a  hoe  when 
the  weeds  are  small;  but  when  they  are  permitted  to  grow  large,  it 
requires  double  labor  to  destroy  them. 


IMPORTANCE  OF  WATER  IN  GARDENING. 

The  importance  of  water  in  gardening  is  too  well  understood  to 
require  anything  to  be  said  to  enforce  it.  The  proper  mode  of  in- 
troducing it  will  depend  upon  the  resources  at  hand  and  the  means 


APRIL] 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


345 


of  the  owner.     The  hydraulic  ram  is  now  much  employed,  and  is 
found  to  be  economical  in  its  working;  the  reduced  price  of  lead  pipe 

Fig.  31. 


has  resulted  in  a  general  introduction  of  this  valuable  invention  long 
confined  to  the  wealthy  only. 

The  accompanying  figure,  No.  31,  represents  an  ornamental  tower 
containing  a  reservoir,  and  serving  also  as  a  prospect  tower.     It  is 


346 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


[APRIL 


Fig.  32. 


filled  by  two  water  rams;  the  pipes  are 
laid  below  the  frost. 

The  water  tower  is  eighteen  feet  square, 
and  forty-five  high,  placed  upon  a  terrace 
for  beauty,  and  to  gain  elevation.  Within 
is  a  reservoir  seven  feet  square  and  thirty- 
four  feet  high,  constructed  in  the  strong- 
est manner.  From  the  bottom  the  water 
is  conducted  in  2-inch  iron  pipes,  three 
and  a  half  feet  below  the  sod,  and  lateral 
pipes  of  lead,  varying  in  size  to  supply 
hydrants  for  root  culture,  irrigation,  the 
cattle-yard,  stable,  garden,  the  house, 
and  fountains. 

A  useful  and  simple  trough  is  repre- 
sented by  cut  No.  32,  which  it  will  be 
well  to  adopt  in  watering  ground  that  has 
a  slight  fall. 

This  simple  trough  may  be  six  inches 
wide,  with  sluiceways  every  few  feet, 
formed  by  pieces  of  the  sides  cut  out 
and  turning  on  pivots  in  the  centre, 
which,  when  open,  shut  off  the  water 
from  further  progress  down  the  trough 
by  falling  back  against  the  side,  and 
allows  it  to  escape  through  an  opening 
wherever  it  may  be  wanted. 

For  strawberry  beds,  and,  indeed,  all 
plants  that  require  much  water,  this  sim- 
ple contrivance,  which  may  be  varied  in 
many  ways,  will  be  found  truly  useful. 


THE    FEUIT  GARDEN. 


PLANTING  FRUIT-TREES. 

Such  fruit-trees  as  are  not  yet  burst  into  leaf  may  be  transplanted 
in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  but  any  that  are  either  in  leaf  or 
flower  will  suffer  considerably  by  such  unseasonable  removal.  How- 
ever, when  late  planting  is  from  some  cause  unavoidable,  and  having 
a  previous  knowledge  thereof,  it  would,  in  that  case,  be  highly  proper 
to  take  up  the  trees  some  time  before,  to  check  their  shooting,  and 
lay  them  by  the  roots  in  a  trench  of  earth  till  they  can  be  planted. 


APRIL]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  34t 

Where  such  planting  is  intended  in  the  middle  States,  let  it  be  done 
in  the  first  week  in  the  month,  but  in  the  eastern  States  it  may  be 
continued  to  the  second,  particularly  with  apples,  pears,  and  plums, 
and  even  many  other  kinds,  should  the  season  prove  late. 

After  planting,  give  each  tree  a  plentiful  watering,  which  will  cause 
the  earth  to  settle  close  about  its  roots,  and  prepare  them  for  pushing 
fresh  fibres ;  repeat  it  once  every  week  or  ten  days  till  the  new  roots 
are  established.  For  the  method  of  planting,  see  the  Fruit  Garden 
and  Orchard  in  March. 

New  planted  trees,  in  general,  but  particularly  such  as  are  planted 
late  in  the  spring,  should  be  frequently  watered  in  dry  weather,  once 
a  week  or  ten  days  will  be  sufficient.  In  doing  this,  give  a  copious 
watering  to  reach  the  roots  effectually,  and  let  their  heads  be  some- 
times watered  as  well  as  their  roots. 

To  preserve  the  earth  moist  about  the  roots  of  new  planted  trees, 
let  some  mulch  or  half  rotted  litter  be  spread  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  this  will  keep  out  the  effects  of  the  sun  and  wind,  and  the 
earth  will  retain  a  due  moisture,  with  the  assistance  of  a  moderate 
watering  now  and  then. 

DESTROY  INSECTS  ON  FRUIT-TREES. 

Insects  often  do  much  damage  to  fruit-trees  if  not  prevented.  This 
is  the  time  they  begin  to  breed  on  the  buds,  leaves,  and  new  advanc- 
ing shoots  of  young  trees,  and  also  frequently  on  those  of  older 
growth.  Proper  means  should  be  used  to  destroy  them  in  time, 
before  they  spread  over  the  general  branches. 

Where  you  perceive  any  of  the  leaves  of  these  trees  to  have  a 
crumpled,  deformed,  clammy  appearance,  &c.,  it  is  a  sign  of  insects, 
notwithstanding  it  is  sometimes  produced  by  the  extreme  changes 
from  warm,  to  wet  and  cold.  Let  the  worst  of  these  leaves  be  taken 
off  as  soon  as  they  appear ;  and  if  the  ends  of  any  of  the  young  shoots 
are  also  attacked,  prune  away  such  infected  parts ;  and  if  furnished 
with  a  garden  watering  engine,  it  would  be  greatly  serviceable  there- 
with to  dash  the  branches  with  water  in  dry  weather,  which,  and  the 
above  precautions,  if  proceeded  to  in  time  will  do  a  great  deal  in  pre- 
venting the  mischief  from  spreading  considerably. 

Or  where  wall-trees  are  much  infested,  first  pull  off  all  the  curled 
or  crumpled  leaves,  then  get  some  tobacco-dust,  or  fine  snuff,  and  scat- 
ter some  of  it  over  all  the  branches,  but  most  on  those  places  where 
the  insects  are  troublesome.  This  should  be  strewed  over  the  trees 
in  the  morning  when  the  twigs  and  leaves  are  wet,  and  let  it  remain. 
It  will  greatly  diminish  the  vermin,  and  not  injure  the  leaves  or 
fruit. 

But  fruit-trees  are  also  sometimes  attacked  by  insects  of  the  cater- 
pillar tribe,  contained  numerously  in  a  minute  embryo  state  in  small 
webs  deposited  on  the  branches,  &c. ;  animated  by  the  heat  of  the 
weather  they  soon  overrun  and  devour  the  young  leaves,  whereby 
neither  the  trees  nor  fruit  prosper  in  growth,  and  which  should  be 
attended  to,  especially  in  young  trees,  by  picking  off  the  webs,  &c., 
before  the  insects  animate  considerably ;  and,  if  accommodated  with 


348  THE  FEUIT  GARDEN.  [APRIL 

a  watering  engine,  as  above  suggested,  you  might  play  the  water 
strongly  upon  the  trees,  so  as  in  the  whole  to  diminish  the  increase 
and  spreading  depredations  of  the  vermin  as  much  as  possible. 

PRUNING. 

Pruning  of  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees  should  be  finished  in  the  first 
week  of  this  month,  if  neglected  so  long,  especially  the  forward  blos- 
soming kinds.  (See  page  223.) 

PROTECTING   THE   BLOSSOMS,  ETC.,  OP  WALL   TREES   FROM   FROST. 

Your  early  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  particularly  those  planted  against 
walls,  may  in  forward  seasons  require  protection  for  their  blossoms 
and  young  setting  fruit  from  night  frosts ;  the  doing  of  which  will 
be  found  of  importance.  (For  the  method,  see  page  219.) 

Where  the  sheltering  of  these  trees  is  practised,  it  should  be  con- 
tinued occasionally  all  this  month ;  for  although  there  are  generally 
some  fine  warm  days  and  nights,  yet  the  weather  is  so  very  uncer- 
tain at  this  season  that  we  often  have  such  severe  hard  frosts  as  to 
prove  the  destruction  of  the  blossoms  and  young  fruit  on  such  of  the 
above  trees  as  are  very  forward  and  fully  exposed. 

They  may  be  protected  with  mats  every  cold  night,  and  taken 
down  in  the  morning  j  if  cuttings  of  evergreens  are  used  as  devised 
last  month,  let  them  remain  constantly  till  the  fruit  is  past  danger. 

GENERAL   SPRING   TREATMENT   OF   FRUIT-TREES. 

For  the  general  spring  management  of  fruit-trees,  see  the  Fruit 
Garden  and  Orchard,  last  month. 

GRAFTING. 

For  the  various  methods  of  grafting,  &c.,  see  the  Nursery  for  last 
month,  and  also  for  this. 

RASPBERRIES. 

New  plantations  of  raspberries  may  be  made  in  the  first  week  of 
this  month,  but  it  would  have  been  much  better  if  that  business  had 
been  performed  in  the  last,  except  in  the  eastern  States,  where  it 
may  now  be  done  with  good  success,  as  directed  on  page  231,  which 
see. 

STRAWBERRY   BEDS. 

Strawberry  beds  should  now  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds. 
The  runners  produced  from  the  plants  should  be  constantly  cleared 
away  as  they  advance.  But  where  new  plantations  are  wanted,  let 
some  of  the  strongest  remain  till  June,  to  form  young  plants,  then 
to  be  transplanted,  as  directed  in  that  month. 

Water  the  beds  of  fruiting  plants  frequently  in  dry  weather,  when 


APRIL]  THE  ORCHARD. — THE  VINEYARD.  349 

they  begin  to  advance  for  bloom  ;  for  if  they  are  not  supplied  with 
that  article  in  a  dry  time,  the  fruit  will  be  smaller  and  of  less  abun- 
dant production ;  observing  to  give  the  water  between  the  plants,  and 
not  over  them.  New  plantations  may  be  made  in  the  first  week  of 
this  month.  For  the  method,  see  pages  232,  233. 

EARLY  FRUITS  IN  FORCING. 

Let  the  same  care  be  taken  of  the  early  fruits  of  all  kinds  now  in 
forcing,  as  directed  last  month  and  February  ;  but  be  very  particular 
to  give  air  in  proportion  to  the  increasing  heat  of  the  weather. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

The  orchard  has  been  so  fully  treated  of  in  the  last  month,  be- 
ginning at  page  234,  as  well  as  in  January  and  February,  that  there 
is  little  to  be  said  respecting  it  in  this ;  except  to  advise  the  comple- 
tion of  all  that  was  directed  to  be  done  in  the  former,  as  early  in 
this  as  possible.  Late  planting  of  deciduous  trees,  whether  fruit  or 
forest,  seldom  succeeds  well,  especially  in  warm  climates ;  and  to 
insure  the  best  possible  success  everything  should  be  attended  to  in 
due  season,  but  more  particularly  planting;  for  "time  waits  for  no- 
body." Apples  and  pears,  however,  may  be  planted  with  tolerable 
success  in  the  middle  States,  but  more  particularly  in  a  backward 
season,  any  time  before  the  middle  of  April;  though  it  is  necessity 
alone  that  could  warrant  their  removal  at  so  late  a  period. 

Let  it  be  observed,  as  a  general  rule,  always  to  plant  or  transplant 
your  fruit-trees  before  a  leaf  expands,  or  a  blossom  appears ;  it  is 
true  that  some  plant  later,  but  never  with  equal  success. 

The  grafting  of  various  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  may  be  performed  in 
the  early  part  of  this  month,  as  directed  in  the  Nursery  for  March, 
page  259,  &c. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

Vine  cuttings,  preserved  since  the  time  of  pruning,  as  directed  on 
page  256,  may  yet  be  planted  in  the  method  pointed  out  on  page 
258  ;  and  all  the  other  work,  directed  to  be  done  in  the  vineyard  in 
March,  should  now  be  finished  as  early  as  possible.  Rooted  plants 
may  also  be  planted  out  into  rows  at  proper  distances,  but  the  earlier 
in  the  month  the  better. 

If  neglected  last  month,  you  must  early  in  this,  before  the  buds 
begin  to  shoot,  either  plough,  dig,  or  deeply  hoe  the  ground  between 
the  vines.  This  is  indispensable ;  the  surface  must  always  be  kept 
loose,  clean,  and  free  from  weeds,  or  the  consequence  will  be  the 


350  THE  NUESERY.  [APRIL 

having  of  few  fruit,  and  these  of  a  bad  and  insipid  quality.  Keep- 
ing the  earth  loose  and  pulverized  by  frequent  working,  will  cause  it 
to  attract  the  dews,  imbibe  the  rains  freely,  when  such  occur,  and 
consequently  to  be  constantly  stored  with  a  sufficient  supply  of  nour- 
ishment for  the  plants  and  fruit;  and  moreover,  the  reflection  of  the 
sun  from  the  clean  surface,  will  dry  and  dissipate  the  damps  that 
would  otherwise  cause  the  fruit  to  become  mildewed,  and  render  its 
quality  crude  and  insipid. 

In  looking  over  the  vines  about  the  end  of  the  month,  observe  to 
displace  such  young  shoots  or  prominent  buds  as  appear  useless,  or 
promise  to  be  injurious  to  those  intended  for  bearing  fruit.  Many 
small  weakly  shoots  generally  arise  from  the  old  stocks  or  branches, 
that  seldom  produce  fruit,  and  are  supernumerary ;  such  should  be 
rubbed  off  close,  except  in  places  where  a  supply  of  new  wood  or 
shoots  for  next  year's  bearing  are  wanted ;  in  which  case  a  suitable 
number  should  be  carefully  preserved.  This  operation  ought,  at  this 
time,  to  be  performed  with  the  finger  and  thumb,  nipping  or  rubbing 
them  off  close  to  where  produced. 

Where  two  shoots  arise  from  one  bud,  take  the  worst  away,  the 
remaining  one  will  grow  stronger,  and  its  fruit  be  numerous  and  large 
in  proportion. 

The  vines  should  now  have  stakes  placed  to  them,  such  as  are  di- 
rected to  be  made  on  page  60,  and  any  old  or  decayed  poles  replaced 
with  new,  if  not  done  in  the  former  months,  in  order  to  tie  and  train 
the  young  advancing  shoots  thereto. 

Any  very  long  shoots  of  the  last  year,  left  upon  strong  and  estab- 
lished stocks,  for  fruiting  more  abundantly,  as  directed  before,  may, 
about  the  first  of  this  month,  when  the  sap  has  arisen,  and  the 
shoots  become  pliant,  be  bent  round  the  stake,  in  the  form  of  a  hoop, 
and  made  fast  thereto  with  a  willow  twig,  &c. ;  by  this  method  it  will 
break  out  into  fruit  more  abundantly,  and  produce  a  less  luxuriancy 
of  wood  than  if  left  in  the  ordinary  way ;  but  it  must  be  bent  gently, 
so  as  not  to  crack  the  bark,  lest  it  should  bleed  and  be  weakened 
thereby,  or  become  totally  abortive. 


THE    NURSERY. 

As  it  is  my  plan  to  avoid  repetitions  as  much  as  possible,  in  order 
to  make  room  for  more  important  matter,  and  having  gone  pretty 
extensively  into  the  nursery  business  in  March,  I  must  refer  you  to 
that  month  for  general  instructions  respecting  the  culture  of  trees 
and  shrubs.  You  will  there  find  the  various  methods  and  proper 
periods  for  grafting ;  the  modes  of  raising,  planting,  and  training  all 
sorts  of  live  hedges ;  the  different  ways  of  cultivating  various  kinds 
of  shrubby  plants,  forest  and  fruit-trees,  by  layers,  suckers,  cuttings, 
seeds,  &c.,  a  repetition  of  which,  in  this  place,  would  only  swell  the 
book  to  no  purpose. 


APRIL]  THE  NURSERY.  351 

Let  it,  however,  be  observed,  that  the  sowing  of  all  kinds  of  tree 
and  shrub  seeds  (except  those  that  have  had  a  year's  previous  pre- 
paration), and  also  grafting,  may  successfully  be  practised  in  the 
middle  States  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  and  in  the  'eastern 
States  till  near  the  latter  end  thereof;  and  that  the  earlier  in  the 
month  such  can  be  done,  provided  the  ground  is  in  good  condition, 
and  the  weather  favorable,  the  better.  Propagation  by  layers,  suck- 
ers, and  cuttings,  may  also  be  practised  in  the  early  part  of  this 
month,  both  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  and  indeed  in  the  lat- 
ter, it  is  the  most  eligible  season  for  the  performance  of  that  work. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

All  hardy  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs,  seedling  and  others,  may  be 
taken  up  and  transplanted  in  the  first  week  of  this  month  (earlier  in 
the  southern  States,  and  not  much  later  in  the  eastern),  with  great 
certainty  of  success. 

Pines  and  firs  of  all  kinds  may  now  be  removed.  Likewise 
cedars,  junipers,  kalmias,  and  rhododendrons ;  pyracanthas,  hollies, 
evergreen  oaks  and  yews;  and  also  alaternuses,  phillyreas,  arbor- 
vitses  and  evergreen  privet,  with  many  others. 

The  seedlings  are  to  be  planted  as  directed  in  Marclij  the  others  as 
on  page  814,  and  immediately  after,  they  should  have  a  good  water- 
ing to  settle  the  earth  about  their  roots.  Likewise,  any  deciduous 
shrubs  and  trees  of  the  late  shooting  kinds  may  yet  be  transplanted, 
if  done  early  in  the  month. 

CARE   OF   NEW   PLANTED   TREES   AND    SHRUBS. 

Water  the  new  plantations  of  evergreens  and  flowering  shrubs, 
&c.,  but  in  particular  those  which  were  lately  planted  out  from  the 
seed-beds.  Three  times  a  week  will  be  sufficient  for  these  ;  and  for 
those  deciduous  kinds  that  have  been  transplanted  in  autumn  or  early 
in  spring,  once  a  week  will  do ;  always  observing,  during  this  month, 
to  give  the  water  very  early  in  the  morning. 

NEW  GRAFTED  TREES. 

Examine  the  new  grafted  trees,  the  clay  is  sometimes  apt  to  fall 
off  or  crack,  so  as  to  admit  air  and  wet  to  the  grafts. 

"When  that  is  the  case,  the  old  clay  must  be  taken  entirely  off,  and 
immediately  apply  some  more  that  is  fresh  and  well  wrought :  let  this 
be  closed  in  every  part,  so  that  neither  air  nor  wet  can  enter. 

Where  there  are  any  shoots  produced  from  the  stocks  below  the 
grafts  rub  them  off  close ;  for  these,  if  permitted  to  grow,  would  starve 
the  young  shoots  :  be  careful  also  to  eradicate  all  root  suckers. 

BUDDED    TREES. 

Budded  trees  should  also  be  looked  over  about  this  time,  for  those 
that  were  worked  last  summer  will  now  be  making  their  first  shoots, 
and  therefore  demand  some  attention. 


352  THE  NURSERY.  [APRIL 

The  first  shoots  from  the  inoculated  buds  are,  in  some  seasons,  apt 
to  be  attacked  by  insects  or  blights ;  and  these,  if  not  prevented, 
will  injure  them  greatly,  and  sometimes  entirely  spoil  them;  but  by 
timely  attention,  it  may  be,  in  a  great  measure,  prevented :  where  the 
ends  of  the  young  shoots  appear  crumpled,  and  the  leaves  curled,  let 
them  be  carefully  taken  off,  for  they  are  full  of  small  insects.  By 
this  practice  the  vermin  may  be  prevented  from  spreading  farther. 

Likewise  observe,  that  all  shoots  which  put  out  from  the  stock, 
except  the  proper  inserted  bud,  must  be  rubbed  off  constantly  as  they 
are  produced,  that  its  whole  efforts  may  go  to  the  support  of  the  bud- 
shoots  only. 

THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  SEED-BEDS. 

Water  occasionally  the  seed-beds  of  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs 
in  dry  weather:  this  must  be  practised  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  begin  to  appear. 

Observe  at  all  times  to  water  these  beds  with  moderation ;  a  little 
and  often  must  be  the  rule.  Likewise  be  very  careful  not  to  apply 
the  water  over  hastily  at  any  time,  for  that  would  be  apt  to  wash  the 
earth  away  from  the  seed,  and  also  from  the  young  plants  now  begin- 
ning to  come  up :  be  particularly  careful  as  to  the  more  tender  and 
delicate  sorts :  generally  let  the  refreshments  of  water  be  repeated 
moderately  once  every  two  days  in  warm  dry  weather,  which  will  be 
of  great  service  to  all  kinds  of  seedling  plants. 

Shade  will  also  prove  very  beneficial  in  the  middle  of  hot  sunny 
days,  to  many  of  the  choice  kinds  of  seedling-trees  and  shrubs,  about 
the  time  of  their  first  appearing,  and  for  some  time  after. 

These  young  plants  may  be  shaded  from  the  sun  occasionally,  by 
fixing  hoops  across  the  beds,  then  let  mats,  canvas  or  the  like,  be 
drawn  over  the  hoops  as  often  as  occasion  requires. 

Where  there  are  boxes,  pots,  or  tubs  of  seedling  plants,  let  them 
be  placed  in  a  shady  situation,  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter 
end  of  this  month,  where  they  may  have  the  morning  and  afternoon 
sun  only,  carefully  protecting  them  from  its  mid-day  influence. 

All  beds  of  seedling  trees  and  shrubs  whatever,  must  be  kept  per- 
fectly clean  from  weeds.  This  should  be  carefully  attended  to,  for 
the  weeds  are  of  much  quicker  growth  than  the  young  seedling  plants, 
and  would  soon  get  the  start  of  them  if  permitted  to  stand.  There- 
fore, let  such  as  soon  as  they  appear  in  the  beds  be  pricked  out  before 
they  get  to  any  great  head,  performing  it  by  a  very  careful  hand- 
weeding. 

HOEING  AND  WEEDING. 

Hoe  and  destroy  weeds  between  the  rows  of  young  trees ;  they  will 
now  arise  abundantly  from  seeds,  but  by  applying  the  hoe  to  them 
while  young,  they  may  be  very  expeditiously  destroyed.  Choose  dry 
weather,  let  the  hoe  be  sharp,  take  advantage  of  the  weeds  while  they 
are  small,  and  cut  them  up  clean  within  the  ground. 

There  is  nothing  like  destroying  weeds  in  due  time,  for  when  they 


APRIL]  THE  NURSERY.  353 

are  suffered  to  grow  large,  they  are  extremely  hurtful  to  all  young 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  in  particular  to  those  plants  which  are  not  far 
advanced  in  their  growth ;  besides,  if  suffered  to  ripen  and  shed  their 
seeds  these  lay  the  foundation  of  a  world  of  trouble  afterwards,  which 
might  be  avoided  by  timely  exertions  and  care. 


GRAFTING  HOLLIES,  ETC. 

Graft  hollies  with  cuttings  of  the  variegated  kinds.  The  first  fort- 
night in  this  month  is  the  proper  time  to  perform  that  work,  in  the 
middle  States. 

The  common  green  holly  is  the  proper  stock  to  graft  the  variegated 
kinds  upon,  and  the  stocks  for  this  purpose  must  not  be  less  than  three 
or  four  years7  growth  from  the  seed ;  but  those  of  five  or  six  answer 
perfectly  well. 

Get  some  cuttings  or  grafts  of  the  best  variegated  kinds ;  they 
must  be  shoots  of  the  last  summer's  growth.  Let  them  be  grafted 
with  exactness,  according  to  the  general  method  of  whip-grafting. 
(See  page  263.) 

Likewise  graft  any  other  curious  varieties  of  trees,  on  stocks  of 
their  own  kinds. 

But  in  most  fruit-trees  and  other  deciduous  kinds,  where  any  graft- 
ing remains  to  be  done;  no  time  should  be  omitted  in  forwarding  it 
early  in  the  month. 

INARCHING. 

Inarching  may  be  performed  now  on  evergreens,  and  on  any  kinds 
of  trees  or  shrubs  that  you  desire  to  propagate  that  way. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  principally  intended  for  those  kinds 
which  are  not  easily  raised  by  common  grafting  or  budding,  or  by 
seeds,  layers,  or  cuttings,  or  any  of  the  other  general  methods. 

The  evergreen  kinds  may  be  inarched  towards  the  end  of  this 
month,  but  deciduous  sorts  generally  succeed  best  when  done  about 
the  middle  of  it.  For  the  method,  see  page  267. 


23 


354 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR 


[APRIL 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


HANGING  VASES. 

Those  who  study  the  ornamental  will  not  omit  the  use  of  hanging 
vases,  which  may  be  placed  in  rooms,  windows,  and  piazzas,  to  the 

great   beautifying   of   the 

Fig.  33.  scene.      In    general,    the 

plants  for  growth  should 
be  selected  from  those 
whose  branches  hang  down 
gracefully,  and  are  suffi- 
ciently vigorous  to  cover 
the  vase.  Ivy,  carefully 
cultivated,  forms  an  admi- 
rable plant  for  the  house, 
as  it  bears  a  fire  heat  bet- 
ter than  most.  The  fol- 
lowing are  also  eminently 
suitable  :  Petunia,  Nurein- 
bergia  gracilis,  Torenia 
ariatica,  mesembryanthum, 
Pentas  carnea,  heliotropi- 

um  Peruvianum,  verbenas,  maurandia  Barclayana,  lycopodium,  tro- 
paeolum,  hoya,  &c.  &c. 


CHOICE    HYACINTHS. 

The  earlier  sorts  of  hyacinths  will  begin  to  open  and  -show  color 
in  the  beginning  of  this  month  ;  it  will  be  proper  to  screen  the  finer 
sorts  from  the  too  powerful  effects  of  the  sun,  which,  if  not  prevented, 
would  bleach  and  tarnish  their  colors,  particularly  the  reds  and  deep 
blues,  but  if  they  are  properly  defended  from  it,  their  colors  will  be 
preserved,  and  they  will,  in  some  measure,  be  kept  back  so  as  to  be 
in  full  bloom  with  the  later  sorts,  especially  if  the  roots  of  the  early 
kinds  have  been  planted  about  an  inch  deeper  than  the  rest  :  it  is  a 
very  desirable  object  in  a  grand  display  of  this  delightful  flower  to 
have  a  uniform  bloom. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  support  the  stems  as  they  advance  in  height; 
for  this  purpose  small  sticks  or  wires,  painted  green,  should  be  forced 
into  the  ground  immediately  behind  the  bulbs,  either  in  an  erect 
position  or  leaning  a  little  backwards,  to  which  the  stems  are  to  be 
rather  loosely  tied  with  small  pieces  of  green  worsted  as  soon  as  they 
begin  to  bend,  or  are  in  danger  of  being  borne  down  by  the  weight 
of  their  bells  ;*  this  operation  must  be  repeated  as  they  advance  in 
height,  for  it  is  impossible  to  do  it  at  one  time,  so  as  to  answer  the 
purpose.  When  the  greater  part  of  the  bed  appears  in  color,  a 
covering  or  awning  should  be  erected  over  it,  and  the  walk  to  be  in 


*  The  Florist's  usual  name  for  the  corolla  of  the  hyacinth. 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  355 

front :  for  the  support  of  the  awning,  a  strong  frame  of  wood  should 
be  erected,  ten  feet  high  in  the  centre,  and  seven  feet  at  each  side, 
and  covered  with  strong  sheeting,  which  will  keep  out  the  rain  and 
admit  a  tolerable  degree  of  light ;  it  should  come  down  close  to  the 
bed  on  the  north  side,  in  order  to  preserve  it  from  cold  winds,  which 
are  prejudicial  to  the  bloom. 

The  covering  ought  to  be  so  constructed  by  means  of  lines  and  pul- 
leys, as  to  be  easily  and  expeditiously  rolled  up  or  let  down,  as  occa- 
sion requires,  to  afford  the  plants  the  full  benefit  of  light  and  air  at 
all  favorable  opportunities  ;  that  is  to  say,  when  the  air  is  mild,  and 
light  clouds  intervene,  so  as  to  blunt  the  sun's  rays. 

A  bed  of  hyacinths  never  requires  to  be  watered  at  any  period ; 
the  rains  that  happen  after  planting  are  generally  more  than  sufficient 
both  for  the  roots  and  bloom;  and  after  the  bloom  is  over,  they  are 
rather  prejudicial  than  otherwise,  except  when  very  moderate. 

Although  covering  in  the  manner  described  presents  and  exhibits 
the  bloom  to  the  greatest  advantage,  yet  it  evidently  has  a  tendency 
to  weaken  and  injure  the  bulbs,  and  ought  not,  therefore,  to  be  con- 
tinued more  than  two  or  three  weeks  at  most ;  but  as  soon  as  the 
general  bloom  declines,  the  bed  should  be  immediately  exposed  to 
the  open  air,  and  the  hoops  replaced  as  before,  that  mats  may  be  laid 
on  occasionally  for  protecting  the  beds  from  heavy  torrents  of  rain, 
which  would  prevent  the  bulbs  from  ripening  well,  and  render  them 
very  subject  to  decay  after  having  been  taken  up. 

The  common  hyacinths  in  open  beds  and  borders,  will  require  no 
other  care  at  this  time  than  to  support  their  flower  stems,  as  directed 
above,  without  which  they  will  generally  fall  down,  and  much  of 
their  beauty  be  lost. 


The  stem  should  be  strong,  tall,  and  erect,  supporting  numerous 
large  bells,  each  suspended  by  a  short  and  strong  peduncle,  or  foot- 
stalk, in  a  horizontal  position,  so  that  the  whole  may  have  a  compact 
pyramidal  form,  with  the  crown  or  uppermost  bell,  perfectly  erect. 

The  bells  should  be  large  and  very  double ;  that  is,  well  filled  with 
broad  bold  petals,  appearing  to  the  eye  rather  convex  than  flat  or 
hollow :  they  should  occupy  about  one-half  the  length  of  the  stem. 

The  colors  should  be  clear  and  bright,  whether  plain  red,  white, 
or  blue,  or  variously  intermixed  or  diversified  in  the  eye ;  the  latter, 
it  must  be  confessed,  gives  additional  lustre  and  elegance  to  this 
beautiful  flower. 

Strong  bright  colors  are,  in  general,  preferred  to  such  as  are  pale; 
there  are,  however,  many  rose-colored,  pure  white,  and  light  blue 
hyacinths,  in  high  estimation. 

Observations. — Some  sorts  consist  of  petals  of  different  colors, 
such  as  light  reds,  with  deep  red  eyes ;  whites,  with  rosy,  blue,  pur- 
ple, or  yellow  eyes ;  light  blues,  with  deep  blue  or  purple  eyes;  and 
yellow,  with  purple  in  the  eye,  &c.  Others  again  have  their  petals 
striped  or  marked  down  the  centre  with  a  paler  or  deeper  color,  which 
has  a  pleasing  effect. 


356  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL 

It  sometimes  happens,  and  with  some  sorts  more  frequently  than 
others,  that  two  stems  are  produced  from  the  same  root,  one  is  gene- 
rally considerably  taller  than  the  other;  when  this  is  the  case,  the 
weaker  may  be  cut  off  near  the  ground  soon  after  it  makes  its  ap- 
pearance, or  suffered  to  bloom,  and  its  bells  be  intermixed  with  the 
lower  ones  of  the  taller  stem,  so  dexterously  as  to  appear  like  one 
regular  pyramid  of  bells. 

TULIPS. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  some  of  your  choice  tulips  will 
begin  to  show  color ;  they  should,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  blos- 
soms begin  to  open,  be  shaded  from  the  sun,  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  for  your  elegant  hyacinths ;  for,  when  its  heat  is  considera- 
ble, it  will  cause  the  colors  to  run  and  intermix  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  destroy  the  elegance  and  beauty  of  the  flowers;  some  sorts  are 
more  particularly  liable  to  this  than  others,  and  will  be  spoiled  in 
five  minutes. 

The  awning  should  be  always  kept  rolled  up,  or  totally  off,  except 
when  the  sun  is  powerful ;  for  if  kept  too  long,  or  too  closely  covered, 
the  colors  of  the  flowers  would  become  faint  and  weak,  and  the  gran- 
deur of  effect  would  be  lost  or  considerably  lessened. 

Strong  winds  are  extremely  injurious  to  tulips  when  in  flower,  by 
dashing  them  against  one  another,  and  thereby  bruising  their  petals, 
from  the  effects  of  which  they  must  be  guarded  by  letting  down  the 
awning  at  such  times  quite  to  the  ground  on  the  windy  side ;  a  line 
of  bass  mats  sewed  together,  and  their  upper  edge  nailed  to  the  frame 
on  that  side,  may  answer  the  purpose,  if  the  cloth  is  not  of  sufficient 
length. 

Tulips  never  require  to  be  artificially  watered  in  the  hottest  and 
driest  seasons,  at  any  period  from  planting  to  taking  up  the  roots ; 
nevertheless,  moderate  rains  will  be  very  beneficial  to  them  in  spring, 
and  cause  them  to  produce  a  strong  bloom ;  after  flowering,  too  much 
wet  is  very  prejudicial  to  the  roots.  Immediately  after  the  flowers 
are  on  the  decline,  the  bed  must  be  fully  exposed  to  the  open  air. 

Lines  of  small  twine,  painted  green,  should  pass  from  one  end  of  the 
bed  to  the  other,  corresponding  with  the  rows  of  flowers,  fastened  at 
the  ends  and  middle  to  nice  painted  sticks  placed  therein  for  that 
purpose;  to  these  the  stems  of  the  flowers  are  to  be  loosely  tied  with 
short  pieces  of  green  worsted,  which  will  preserve  a  pleasing  regu- 
larity of  appearance,  without  stiffness  and  formality.  The  covering 
may  be  continued  at  the  necessary  intervals  for  three  weeks  with 
safety,  but  continuing  it  too  long  will  injure  them. 

When  vacancies  occur  in  the  beds  by  the  decay  of  some  roots  which 
might  look  awkward,  you  may  immerse  the  lower  end  of  the  stems 
of  flowers  from  other  quarters,  in  phials  filled  with  water,  and  sunk 
into  the  bed,  so  as  not  to  appear  above  ground;  these  will  continue 
in  bloom,  when  shaded,  for  several  days,  and  may  be  replaced  with 
others,  which  will  fill  those  vacancies  and  make  a  tolerable  appearance. 

Common  tulips  will  require  no  other  care  in  the  borders,  &c.,  than 
keeping  them  free  from  weeds. 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  35  7 


RANUNCULUSES. 

April  showers,  and  frequent  rains  in  May,  are  essentially  necessary 
to  the  growth  and  vigor  of  ranunculuses :  if  these  fail,  soft  water  must 
be  administered  in  sufficient  quantities  between  the  rows,  by  means 
of  a  common  watering  pot,  with  a  long  tube  or  spout  held  low,  so 
as  not  to  wash  the  earth  into  holes :  for  it  is  better  to  avoid  watering 
the  plants  themselves,  as  it  might  chill  them  too  much,  and  stagnate 
their  juices,  and  has  a  tendency  to  rot  the  crowns.  The  consequences 
of  omitting  to  water,  when  necessary,  are  these,  viz :  The  plants  will 
make  little  progress;  the  blossom  buds  of  the  strongest  will  be  small, 
and  the  weaker  plants  will  not  bloom  at  all ;  the  grass  or  foliage  will 
put  on  a  sickly  yellowish  appearance,  from  which  it  will  not  recover 
during  the  season;  and  lastly,  the  roots  when  taken  up  will  be  small 
and  lean. 

But  such  kinds  of  watering,  however  necessary,  are  by  no  means 
so  salutary  to  these,  or  any  other  flowers  or  plants,  as  fine  warm, 
natural  showers;  as  they  can  neither  be  so  equally  dispensed,  nor  are 
the  plants  naturally  disposed  to  receive  them  when  the  atmosphere 
is  dry ;  because  their  pores  and  fibres  are  contracted,  and  they  are, 
as  it  were,  in  the  expectancy  of  dry  weather. 

Since  it  is  evident  that  artificial  waterings  are,  in  all  respects,  so 
much  inferior  to  natural,  it  is,  therefore,  better  to  wait  a  day  or  two, 
in  hopes  of  a  change  of  weather,  than  to  be  too  hasty  in  affording 
these  succors,  although  the  plants  may  appear  to  suffer  for  the  mo- 
ment by  the  omission;  for  if  such  a  change  should  fortunately  take 
place,  they  will  receive  infinitely  more  benefit  from  it  than  when  both 
themselves  and  the  soil  are  already  saturated  or  replenished  with 
water,  not  so  congenial  to  vegetation  as  that  ordained  by  nature  for 
the  purpose.  (For  their  further  treatment,  see  the  Flower  Garden 
in  May.) 

ANEMONES. 

The  beds  of  anemones,  for  the  present,  will  require  exactly  the 
same  treatment  as  the  ranunculuses ;  therefore  it  is  not  necessary  to 
say  more  in  this  place  respecting  them. 

AURICULAS. 

The  auriculas,  towards  the  middle  of  this  month,  will  be  advanc- 
ing in  their  flower  stems.  If  any  plant  is  possessed  of  more  than 
one  or  two  principal  stems,  it  is  advisable  to  pinch  off  the  pips  or 
flower  buds  of  the  smallest  and  weakest,  in  order  to  render  the  blos- 
soms of  the  remaining  larger  and  more  vigorous  than  they  would  be 
if  this  was  omitted  to  be  done  in  due  time. 

When  the  pips  become  turgid,  and  begin  to  expand,  they  must  be 
preserved  from  rain;  nor  should  the  early  plants  be  suffered  to  remain 
in  a  situation  exposed  to  cold  winds ;  on  the  contrary,  they  ought  to 
be  selected  from  the  rest,  and  removed  to  a  shady  corner,  where  they 
should  have  hand-glasses  suspended  over  them,  or  placed  on  brick- 


358  THE  PLEASURE,  OE  [APRIL 

bats  or  the  like  to  admit  air,  and  yet  preserve  the  expanding  bloom 
from  rain. 

The  farina  or  mealy  dust  which  overspreads  and  ornaments  the 
surface  of  those  flowers,  contributes  exceedingly  to  their  lustre  and 
beauty;  this  must  therefore  be  preserved  upon  them ;  the  least  shower 
of  rain  would  easily  wash  it  off;  it  is  also  liable  to  be  blown  away  by 
the  winds ;  and  the  sun,  if  permitted  to  shine  freely  on  the  flowers, 
would  occasion  them  soon  to  fade. 

Therefore,  where  it  is  required  to  have  the  more  curious  or  choice 
varieties  to  blow  in  the  best  perfection,  the  pots  containing  the  plants 
should,  according  as  the  flowers  begin  to  open,  be  immediately  re- 
moved and  placed  on  the  shelves  of  the  auricula  stage  or  where  the 
flowers  may  be  protected  occasionally  from  such  weather  as  would 
deface  the  bloom.  The  stand  or  stage  should  have  from  three  to  five 
ranges  of  shelves,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  pots,  about  six 
inches  wide,  rising  theatre-like,  one  above  another,  from  the  front ; 
having  the  back  generally  placed  against  a  shady  wall,  pale,  or  other 
building;  it  must  be  constantly  covered  at  top,  water-tight,  sloping 
to  the  back  part ;  but  the  front  and  ends  should  only  be  covered  occa- 
sionally by  having  some  canvas  or  mats  fastened  thereto  by  way  of 
curtain,  so  contrived  that  it  may  be  readily  let  down  and  drawn  up  at 
pleasure;  which,  when  the  air  is  very  sharp,  or  in  high  winds,  or 
driving  rains,  must  be  let  down  to  shelter  the  flowers;  but  when  the 
weather  is  mild  and  calm,  let  the  front  and  ends  be  constantly  open. 
Or  this  may  also  be  used  occasionally  to  shade  the  flowers  from  the 
sun,  where  it  has  access  in  the  heat  of  the  day;  observing,  however, 
generally,  not  to  let  the  screen  remain  longer  than  is  necessary  for 
the  defence  of  the  bloom. 

Regular  waterings  should  be  given  during  the  time  the  plants  are 
on  the  stage;  examine  them  once  every  day  to  see  where  water  is 
wanted,  and  let  such  pots  as  stand  in  need  of  that  article  be  imme- 
diately supplied  with  it.  In  doing  this  suffer  no  water  to  fall  on  the 
flowers,  for  that  would  wash  off  the  afore-mentioned  farinaceous  bloom, 
and  greatly  deface  their  beauty. 

The  waterings  should  be  moderate  and  frequent;  for  these  plants 
being  rather  of  a  succulent  nature  cannot  bear  too  much  without 
material  injury. 

Keep  the  surface  of  the  pots  perfectly  neat,  free  from  weeds  and 
every  sort  of  litter ;  suffer  no  decayed  leaves  to  remain  on  the  plants, 
but  let  such,  as  soon  as  they  appear,  be  taken  off. 

By  thus  placing  your  auricula  pots  on  a  covered  stage,  it  not  only 
preserves  the  flowers  much  longer  in  beauty,  but  you  also  more  readily 
view  them,  and  they  show  themselves  to  much  greater  advantage  than 
when  placed  on  the  ground. 

The  shelves  and  back  of  the  stage  should  be  painted  black,  or  of 
some  dark  color,  by  way  of  contrast  to  the  white  eyes,  &c,,  of  the 
flowers ;  and  if  a  large  looking-glass  be  placed  at  each  end  of  the  stage, 
the  effect  produced  will  be  very  pleasing,  by  apparently  lengthening 
the  stage  each  way  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

A  row  of  fine  polyanthuses  in  pots  may  likewise  be  introduced  on 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  359 

the  auricula  stage  ;  it  will  add  to  the  variety  and  form  a  pleasing  con- 
trast. 

The  tallest  flowering  auriculas  should  stand  on  the  most  distant 
shelf,  and  the  shortest  in  front;  those  stems  which  are  weak  and 
bend,  ought  to  be  supported  with  small  wires  fixed  in  the  earth  be- 
hind them,  so  as  not  to  be  easily  discerned.  If  the  root  of  the  stage 
is  covered  with  glass,  it  will  be  an  additional  advantage  to  the  plants. 

COMPOST   FOR  AURICULAS. 

The  compost  proper  for  auriculas,  should  consist  of  the  following 
ingredients  in  the  annexed  proportions,  viz  :— - 

One-half  rotten  cow-dung,  two  years  old. 

One-sixth  fresh  sound  earth  of  an  open  texture. 

One-eighth  earth  of  rotten  leaves. 

One-twelfth  coarse  sea  or  river  sand. 

One-twelfth  moory  earth. 

One  twenty-fourth  ashes  of  burned  vegetables. 
These  ingredients  should  be  well  incorporated,  and  placed  in  an 
open  situation,  perfectly  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sun  and  air;  it 
should  be  laid  in  a  regular  heap  or  mass  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
inches  thick,  and  turned  frequently :  in  this  state  it  should  remain  a 
year  or  six  months,  turning  it  once  every  two  months,  and  keeping 
it  always  free  from  weeds  :  before  it  is  used  it  should  be  passed 
through  a  coarse  screen,  to  free  it  from  stones,  &c.,  and  to  incorpo- 
rate it  more  effectually. 

NEW   POTTING  AURICULAS,  AND   INCREASING  THEM   BY   SLIPS. 

The  most  advisable  time  to  transplant,  or  to  slip  auriculas,  or  as 
it  is  usually  termed,  to  pot  them,  is  immediately  or  very  soon  after 
their  bloom  is  over ;  and  this  should  be  repeated  annually,  for  it  pre- 
serves the  health  and  constitution  of  the  plants,  by  affording  them  a 
fresh  supply  of  nourishment,  and  affords  an  opportunity  of  curtailing 
the  fibres  if  grown  too  long,  or  if  any  are  decayed  and  mouldy  j  or 
of  cutting  off  the  lower  part  of  the  main  root,  if  in  a  rotting  or  de- 
cayed state,  which  is  frequently  the  case.  By  this  treatment,  the 
plants  are  brought  into  a  state  of  action  and  fresh  vegetation,  which 
will  cause  a  continued  circulation  of  the  juices  during  the  summer. 

The  pots  should  be  hard  baked,  and  for  blooming  plants,  ought  to 
be  seven  inches  in  diameter  at  top,  four  and  a  half  at  bottom,  and 
about  seven  deep;  but  smaller  plants  and  offsets  should  have  shal- 
lower pots,  and  of  a  proportionate  size,  and  very  large  plants  must 
have  pots  in  proportion.  These  before  being  used,  if  new,  should  be 
immersed  in  water  for  five  or  six  hours  or  more. 

In  potting  or  transplanting  auriculas,  the  plant  ought  to  be  care- 
fully turned  out  of  the  former  pot,  and  the  earth  shaken  from  its 
fibres,  which  should  be  trimmed  if  found  long  and  numerous,  and 
also  any  part  of  the  old  main  root  that  appears  in  a  sickly  or  de- 
cayed state  must  be  cut  clean  out,  whether  on  the  lower  part  or  side ; 
and  if  near  the  leaves,  a  cement  should  be  immediately  applied,  con- 


360  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL 

sisting  of  beeswax  and  pitch,  in  equal  quantities,  melted  together 
and  laid  on  when  soft,  but  not  hot,  to  make  it  adhere  more  firmly. 
Place  a  hollow  oyster  shell,  or  the  like,  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  each  pot,  with  the  convex  side  upwards,  and  then  more  than  half 
fill  it  with  the  compost;  let  it  be  higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the 
sides  :  the  plant  is  next  to  be  placed  thereon,  with  its  fibres  regularly 
distributed  all  around,  and  the  pot  filled  up,  adding  a  little  coarse 
sand  close  around  the  stem  of  the  plant,  on  the  surface ;  the  bottom 
of  the  pot  should  then  be  gently  struck  two  or  three  times  against 
the  ground,  in  order  to  close  the  earth  about  the  roots,  this  will 
cause  it  to  sink  about  half  an* inch  below  the  top  of  the  pot,  which 
will  prevent  the  loss  of  water  when  administered. 

N.  B.  The  true  depth  to  plant  an  auricula,  is  within  about  half  an 
inch  of  the  bottom  of  its  lowest  or  outside  leaves. 

Any  offsets  that  have  formed  one  or  more  fibres,  of  an  inch  or  two 
in  length,  may  be  slipped  off  the  old  plant,  and  replanted  around  the 
sides  of  large  pots,  or  singly  in  small  ones,  filled  with  the  same  com- 
post ;  and  if  hand-glasses  are  placed  over  them,  such  will  cause  their 
fibres  to  grow  more  rapidly ;  but  they  ought  not  to  be  long  continued 
on,  lest  the  plants  should  be  drawn  and  weakened  thereby. 

After  potting,  give  each  plant  a  little  water,  and  place  the  pots  in 
a  shaded  situation,  where  they  may  have  the  morning  sun  till  ten 
o'clock,  and  the  afternoon  from  four  or  five,  but  by  no  means  under 
the  drip  of  trees ;  there  they  are  to  remain  till  October,  taking  care 
to  keep  them  regularly  watered,  and  free  from  weeds.  The  pots  may 
or  may  not  be  plunged  in  the  earth,  but  in  the  latter  case  they  will 
require  more  attendance.  Those  who  wish  to  grow  auriculas  and 
polyanthuses  without  all  the  trouble  of  potting,  may  do  so  by  plant- 
ing eight  inches  apart,  in  the  fall,  in  a  common  garden-frame,  and 
after  blooming,  plant  them  out  in  an  open  but  shaded  situation. 

CARE    OP   SEEDLING   AURICULAS. 

Seedling  auriculas  which  were  sown  last  autumn  or  this  spring, 
now  demand  attention ;  these  plants  when  newly  come  up,  or  while 
quite  young,  must  be  carefully  protected  from  the  full  sun  in  the 
heat  of  the  day,  and  frequently  refreshed  with  water. 

The  boxes  or  tubs  in  which  they  are  growing  should  be  removed 
to  a  shady  border,  toward  the  latter  end  of  this  month  or  beginning 
of  next ;  the  place  should  be  open  to  the  morning  sun  till  about  nine 
o'clock,  but  shaded  the  rest  of  the  day,  and  the  plants  watered  fre- 
quently in  dry  weather.  As  soon  as  any  of  them  appear  with  six 
leaves,  such  should  be  carefully  taken  out  from  the  rest  and  planted 
in  pots  or  boxes  filled  with  compost,  about  two  inches  asunder ;  and 
if  grown  by  the  beginning  of  August  so  large  as  to  touch  each  other, 
they  may  then  be  transplanted  into  separate  small  pots,  to  remain 
all  winter. 

POLYANTHUSES. 

Polyanthuses  blow  at  the  same  time,  and  the  fine  kinds  require 
nearly  the  same  treatment  as  auriculas,  both  with  respect  to  soil  and 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  361 

situation ;  they  are,  like  the  latter,  very  impatient  of  heat  and  drought, 
and  agree  with  a  much  greater  portion  of  moisture ;  they  are  fond  of 
shade,  and  will  not  succeed  well  when  exposed  to  our  summer  heats, 
in  a  warm  situation ;  at  least  so  as  to  blow,  even  in  tolerable  perfec- 
tion, the  ensuing  season. 

The  fine  kinds  may  be  grown  in  the  same  sized  pots,  and  in  the 
same  compost,  as  auriculas,  with  the  addition  of  more  loam ;  and  the 
common  or  more  indifferent  sorts  may  be  planted  in  cool  shady  beds 
or  borders,  being  tolerably  hardy,  and  having  more  to  fear  from  the 
summer  heats  than  the  winter  frosts. 

Their  propagation  is  by  slips  and  seed,  at  the  same  time  and  in  the 
same  manner  as  directed  for  auriculas. 


A   DESCRIPTION    OF    THE   PROPERTIES    OF    A   FINE   POLYANTHUS. 

Its  properties  are,  in  most  respects,  similar  to  those  of  a  fine  au- 
ricula; that  is,  the  stem,  peduncles,  or  footstalks,  and  formation  of 
the  bunch  or  truss;  therefore,  a  description  of  its  pips  or  corollas 
only  remains  to  be  given  in  this  place. 

The  tube  of  the  corolla,  above  the  calyx,  should  be  short,  well 
filled  with  the  anthers  or  summits  of  the  stamens,  and  terminate 
fluted  rather  above  the  eye. 

The  eye  should  be  round,  of  a  bright  clear  yellow,  and  distinct 
from  the  ground  color ;  the  proportion  as  in  the  auricula  throughout 
the  flower. 

The  ground  color  is  most  admired  when  shaded  with  a  light  and 
dark  rich  crimson,  resembling  velvet,  with  one  mark  or  stripe  in  the 
centre  of  each  division  of  the  rim,  bold  and  distinct  from  the  edging 
down  to  the  eye,  where  it  should  terminate  in  a  fine  point. 

The  pips  should  be  large,  quite  flat,  and  as  round  as  may  be  con- 
sistent with  their  beautiful  figure,  which  is  circular,  excepting  those 
small  indentures  between  each  division  of  the  rim  which  divide  it 
into  several  heart-like  segments. 

The  edging  should  resemble  a  bright  gold  lace,  bold,  clear,  and 
distinct,  and  so  nearly  of  the  same  color  of  the  eye  and  stripes  as 
scarcely  to  be  distinguished ;  in  short,  the  polyanthus  should  possess 
a  graceful  elegance  of  form,  a  richness  of  coloring  and  symmetry  of 
parts  not  to  be  found  united  in  any  other  flower. 

Fine  double  primroses  are  cultivated  by  offsets,  in  the  same  way 
and  at  the  same  time  as  polyanthuses,  and  require  similar  care  and 
management  in  pots;  they  are  somewhat  more  tender,  and  conse- 
quently must  be  treated  accordingly. 

CARNATIONS. 

If  you  have  omitted  the  potting  or  transplanting  of  carnations  last 
month  where  necessary,  let  it  be  done  in  this,  as  early  as  possible, 
agreeably  to  the  rules  laid  down  on  page  309. 

Keep  the  pots  perfectly  free  from  weeds,  and  the  plants  from  de- 
cayed leaves,  and  let  the  earth  on  the  surface  be  stirred  if  it  binds 
hard,  for  this  will  encourage  the  plants  to  shoot,  and  will  also  give 


362  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL 

an  air  of  neatness.  Water  the  pots  in  warm  weather,  for  they  will 
require  a  little  every  second  day,  or  oftener,  if  the  season  proves  dry, 
which  should  not  be  omitted,  otherwise  the  plants  will  shoot  weakly, 
and  produce  but  slender  flower-stalks. 

When  the  flower-stalks  have  advanced,  let  them  be  supported  as 
directed  in  May. 

Carnations  may  yet  be  finally  planted  into  the  borders  or  beds 
where  intended  to  flower,  but  that  should  be  done  in  the  beginning 
of  the  month,  removing  them  with  balls,  and  watering  them  as  soon 
as  planted. 

MANAGEMENT   OF  POTS    OF   PERENNIAL   PLANTS   IN   GENERAL. 

Give  fresh  earth  to  such  pots  of  perennial  plants  as  were  not 
dressed  and  new  earthed  in  March.  For  the  method  of  doing  which, 
see  page  311. 

The  plants  will  receive  great  benefit  from  this  dressing  ;  and  where 
it  was  not  done  in  that  month,  it  should  not  be  put  off  longer  than 
the  beginning  of  this. 

If  you  have  plants  of  any  kind  in  small  pots,  that  require  to  be 
shifted  into  larger,  it  may  be  performed  early  in  the  month  j  in  doing 
of  which,  turn  each  plant  out  of  the  former  pot  with  the  ball  of 
earth  entire ;  trim  the  outside  roots  and  pare  away  some  of  the  old 
earth ;  having  fresh  mould  or  compost,  replant  it  into  a  larger  pot, 
filling  the  deficiency  with  new  earth,  and  give  some  water  immedi- 
ately. 

Be  very  particular  in  dry  weather  to  supply  all  your  plants  with 
a  sufficiency  of  water ;  this  is  a  material  article,  and  should  not  be 
omitted.  Water  should  be  always  given  as  often  as  the  earth  begins 
to  appear  dry  in  the  pots,  as  there  is  no  other  general  rule  by  which 
it  can  be  administered. 


PINKS. 

Pinks  may  yet  be  transplanted,  slipped,  and  managed  as  directed 
in  March ,  pages  312,  313,  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  do  this  as  early 
in  the  month  as  possible. 

TENDER    ANNUALS. 

Such  tender  annuals  as  you  have  in  an  advanced  state,  are  to  be 
managed  as  directed  on  page  312  ;  always  observing  to  give  them 
more  and  more  air,  in  proportion  to  the  increasing  heat  of  the  wea- 
ther, and  shade  to  the  young  and  weakly  plants  from  the  mid-day  sun, 
when  too  powerful.  As  they  advance  in  growth,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  raise  the  frames,  in  order  to  give  them  full  liberty  to  shoot,  clos- 
ing the  vacancy  below  if  thought  necessary. 

But  where  there  is  the  convenience  either  of  drawing-frame  or  glass 
case,  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  the  tall  growing  tri-colors  and  other 
curious  annual  plants,  it  may  be  effected  to  greater  advantage. 

The  drawing-frame  is  either  composed  of  two,  three,  or  more  dif- 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  363 

ferent  frames,  all  of  the  same  length  and  breadth,  and  each  about 
nine  or  ten  inches  deep,  except  the  upper  glass  frame,  which  should 
be  ten  inches  deep  in  front,  and  eighteen  at  the  back ;  being  all  of 
equal  dimensions  in  width  and  length,  made  in  a  very  exact  manner, 
to  fit  one  on  the  top  of  another,  appearing  as  but  one  frame  when 
thus  joined,  and  are  to  be  made  use  of  in  the  following  manner: — 

Begin  first  with  the  deepest  frame ;  then,  when  the  plants  have 
reached  the  glasses,  let  the  said  frame  be  taken  up,  and  in  its  place 
set  one  of  the  others,  and  immediately  fix  the  deepest  frame  upon 
that,  as  above ;  and  then,  when  they  have  filled  that  space,  let  an- 
other frame  be  added,  observing,  as  above,  to  let  the  deepest  or  slop- 
ing frame  be  always  placed  uppermost  in  order  to  receive  the  glasses. 

The  glass-cases  for  this  purpose  are  generally  made  about  six, 
seven,  or  eight  feet  wide,  and  as  long  as  may  be  convenient;  the 
height  should  be  five  or  six  feet  in  front,  and  seven  or  eight  in  the 
back. 

The  front  ought  to  be  of  glass  sashes,  perfectly  upright,  and  facing 
the  south;  the  back  may  be  either  of  wood  or  brick,  and  both  ends 
of  the  same  materials,  but  if  of  glass,  the  better ;  and  the  top  must 
also  be  of  glass  sashes,  sloping  from  the  back  to  the  front. 

Within  this,  a  hot-bed  is  to  be  made,  for  which  a  pit  must  be 
formed  nearly  the  whole  length,  raised  by  brick-work  or  planking 
above  the  floor,  having  the  whole  about  two  feet  and  a  half  deep, 
and  from  four  to  five  or  six  feet  wide  :  this  is  to  be  filled  with  hot 
dung  or  tanner's  bark,  carrying  it  up  a  few  inches  higher  than  the 
top  of  the  pit,  to  allow  for  settling ;  and  if  a  dung-bed,  lay  earth  or 
tan-bark  at  top  five  or  six  inches  thick. 

The  pots  are  to  be  placed  upon  this,  plunging  them  to  their  rims 
in  earth,  as  before  mentioned ;  but  if  the  bed  be  made  of  tan,  plunge 
them  therein,  having  no  occasion  for  earth  upon  such  beds. 

In  this  frame  or  glass  case,  let  the  plants  have  fresh  air  daily,  and 
give  sufficient  supplies  of  water,  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  May 
they  will  be  advanced  to  a  large  size,  and  may  be  removed  in  their 
pots  into  any  principal  compartment  in  the  pleasure-ground,  &c.,  or 
placed  among  the  green-house  plants. 

When  tender  or  curious  annuals  have  .been  omitted  to  be  sown  in 
the  former  months,  a  slight  hot-bed  may  be  made  for  them  in  the 
beginning  of  this,  to  forward  them  as  much  as  possible.  The  seeds 
are  to  be  sown  as  directed  on  page  169. 

SOWING   ANNUAL   FLOWER   SEEDS. 

All  the  varieties  of  annual  flower-seeds  that  are  capable  of  bear- 
ing the  open  air,  and  of  arriving  at  perfection  in  our  climates,  may 
now  be  sown  with  good  success.  In  the  early  part  of  the  month, 
you  may  sow  the  following  kinds  with  many  others  too  tedious  to 
mention  in  this  place,  viz :  alkekengi,  China  aster  in  sorts,  Molda- 
vian-baum,  belvidere  or  summer  cypress,  candy-tuft  in  sorts,  LobeFs- 
catchfly,  cyanus  in  sorts,  flos-adonis,  bladder-ketmia,  heart's-ease, 
convolvulus  tri-color,  larkspurs  in  sorts,  lavatera  in  sorts,  and  lu- 
pins of  every  kind;  dwarf  lychnis,  curled,  oriental,  and  Peruvian 


364  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL 

mallows,  nigellas,  roma  nettle,  sweet,  Tangier,  and  winged  peas,  an- 
nual and  ten-week  stocks,  strawberry  spinage,  persicaria,  sunflower, 
and  Venus' s  looking-glass;  snails,  horns,  hedge-hogs,  caterpillars  and 
horseshoes;  Venus' s  navelwort,  purple  and  yellow  hawk  weed;  Cas- 
sia chamsechrista,  polygala  sanguinea  and  silene  in  sorts,  &c.  &c. 
About  the  middle  of  the  month  you  may  sow  sweet  alyson,  love  lies 
bleeding,  prince's  feathers,  mignonette,  tree  and  spike  amaranthus ; 
cock's-combs,  cape  marigold,  bastard  saffron,  and  honey-wort ;  sweet 
sultan,  China  hollyhock,  and  China  pinks;  marvel  of  Peru,  nolana, 
palma  christi,  annual  snapdragon,  zennia  and  xeranthemum,  &c.,  and 
in  the  last  ten  days  of  the  month,  you  may  sow  either  of  the  pre- 
ceding, and  also  the  following  kinds,  viz  :  white,  purple,  and  striped 
globe  amaranthus,  tri-color  amaranthus,  double  balsams  and  martynia 
annua;  browallia,  scarlet  ipomoea,  capsicums  in  sorts,  serpent  cu- 
cumber and  squirting  cucumber,  white  and  purple  egg-plant ;  cleome, 
purple,  white,  and  dwarf  dolichos,  with  many  other  kinds.*  The 
whole  of  the  preceding  sorts  may  be  sown  in  small  patches  in  the 
borders,  interspersing  the  kinds,  so  as  to  form  a  well  assorted  variety 
and  a  long  succession  of  bloom.  If  to  be  sown  in  patches,  observe 
the  directions  given  for  sowing  hardy  annual  /lower  seeds,  on  page 
166,  &c.,  which  will  now  be  perfectly  applicable  to  these.  Such  as 
you  wish  to  sow  in  small  beds  for  transplanting,  let  them  be  sown  as 
directed  for  perennial  and  biennial  flower  seeds,  on  page  365,  ob- 
serving always  to  give  each  kind  a  depth  of  covering  in  proportion 
to  the  size  of  the  seed. 

Let  the  beds  or  patches  be  frequently  watered  in  dry  weather,  both 
before  and  after  the  plants  appear ;  and  when  they  have  been  up  a 
few  weeks,  let  all  the  large  growing  kinds  be  thinned  where  they 
have  risen  too  thick,  observing  to  transplant  into  other  places  where 
wanted  some  of  the  best  you  pull  up  of  the  kinds  that  succeed  in 
that  way.  Thin  the  others  as  directed  in  May,  &c. 

Any  of  the  smaller  growing  kinds,  such  as  mignonette,  ten-week 
stock,  browallia,  sensitive  plant,  ice  plant,  &c.,  may  be  sown  in  pots, 
and  if  duly  watered  and  kept  clean  will  arrive  at  good  perfection; 
but  the  last  two  will  require  the  protection  of  glasses  for  some  time. 

SOWING   CARNATION  AND  PINK  SEEDS. 

Carnation  and  pink  seeds  may  be  sown  any  time  this  month.  As 
it  is  from  seed  that  all  new  varieties  are  obtained,  you  should  sow 
some  every  year ;  and  if  you  have  but  one  good  variety  from  each 
sowing,  there  can  be  no  reason  to  complain,  as  this  may  afterwards 
be  abundantly  propagated  by  layers  or  slips.  The  fine  double  kinds 
seldom  ripen  seed,  but  semi-doubles  do  very  plentifully.  From  the 
seeds  of  the  latter,  especially  when  growing  near  the  finest  varieties, 
you  may  expect  some  good  and  perhaps  valuable  flowers.  For  this 
purpose  prepare  a  small  bed  of  good  rich  ground,  sow  the  seeds  on 

*  This  list  contains  most  of  the  old  and  beautiful  annual  flowers,  many 
of.  which  are  now  seldom  seen.  The  newer  discoveries  have  in  a  great 
measure  displaced  them,  without  in  all  cases,  being  any  improvement. 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  365 

the  surface  tolerably  thick,  each  sort  separate,  and  sift  over  them 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  fine  light  earth.  If  the  weather  should 
prove  dry,  water  the  beds  occasionally ;  the  plants  will  soon  rise, 
after  which  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  them  free  from  weeds  and 
refresh  them  now  and  then  with  a  little  water.  For  their  further 
management,  see  the  work  of  the  following  months. 

SOWING  PERENNIAL  AND  BIENNIAL  FLOWER-SEEDS. 

You  may  now  with  good  success  sow  the  seeds  of  most  kinds  of 
perennial  and  biennial  fibrous-rooted  flowers  that  prosper  in  the  open 
ground,  such  as  those  mentioned  last  month  on  page  313,  together 
with  monk's-hood,  nettle-leaved  campanala,  lobelias,  phloxes,  double 
soapwort,  sneezewort,  goat's-rue,  and  red  garden  valerian ;  crimson 
monarda,  Chinese  ixia,  verbascums,  night-smelling  rocket,  and  aletris 
or  star-root ;  asclepiases  of  various  sorts ;  calceolarias,  Maryland 
cassia,  clinopodiums  and  coreopsises  ]  dracocephalums,  galega  virgi- 
nica,  gerardias,  cucubalis,  hedysarums  and  huecheras;  hibiscuses, 
liatrises,  oenotheras  and  podalyrias ;  penstemons,  rudbeckias,  saxi- 
fragas  and  silphiums;  solidagoes,  spigelias,  spiraeas,  chelone,  tril- 
liums  and  veronicas,  with  many  other  kinds. 

These  seeds  may  either  be  sown  on  borders  or  on  three  or  four 
feet  wide  beds  of  rich  earth,  and  covered  evenly  with  fine  light  earth, 
the  largest  not  more  than  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep, 
and  the  smallest  from  an  eighth  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch. 

But  in  sowing  these  or  any  other  kinds  you  may  draw  shallow 
drills,  proportioning  the  depth  to  the  size  of  the  seeds,  and  sow  them 
therein,  drawing  the  earth  lightly  over  them,  observing  that  it  is 
much  better  to  cover  too  light  than  too  deep,  for  if  covered  shallow 
they  will  vegetate  when  moist  weather  ensues,  but  if  overly  deep 
never.  Or  you  may  practise  the  following  method :  first,  rake  the 
surface  of  the  bed  smooth,  and  with  the  back  of  a  rake  or  a  common 
trowel  draw  or  push  off  the  fine  top  mould,  either  into  the  alleys  or 
the  divisions  intended  to  be  left  between  each  kind,  and  to  a  depth 
in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  seed  intended  to  be  sown  in  each 
space,  then  sow  it  on  the  surface,  and  cast  the  drawn-off  earth  evenly 
over  it,  after  which  pick  or  rake  away  the  lumps  with  a  fine  rake, 
and  pat  the  surface  lightly  and  smooth  with  the  back  of  the  trowel. 

Should  dry  weather  ensue,  it  will  be  necessary  to  sprinkle  the  beds 
frequently  with  water,  both  before  and  after  the  plants  appear,  and 
to  be  very  particular  in  keeping  them  free  from  weeds.  Some  of  the 
more  delicate  kinds  when  up  may  not  be  able  to  bear  the  mid-day 
sun  whilst  young,  and  will  consequently  appear  in  a  declining  state. 
These  must  be  shaded  and  protected  from  its  influence  by  occasional 
coverings  of  mats  until  they  have  established  their  roots  and  obtained 
sufficient  strength  to  withstand  its  force. 


PLANTING  AND  PROPAGATING   PERENNIAL  FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month  you  may  continue  to  remove  and 
transplant  most  sorts  of  fibrous  and  tuberous-rooted  perennial  flower- 


366  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL 

ing  plants,  and  to  slip  and  increase  many  of  them  by  offsets.  The 
following,  together  with  those  mentioned  on  page  314,  may  yet  be 
removed  with  good  success,  that  is,  such  of  them  as  have  not  pre- 
viously begun  to  shoot  flower-stems,  viz.,  dracocephalums  of  various 
kinds,  but  particularly  the  virginicum  and  dentatum,  which  are  very 
beautiful ;  penstemons,  podalyrias,  gentianas  in  sorts,  hibiscuses  in 
great  varieties,  cypripedums  and  phloxes,  monardas,  coreopsises, 
sisyrinchiums  and  gerardias,  aletrises,  aconites,  ranunculus,  aconiti- 
folius,  dictamnuses,  and  dodecatheon,  ineadia,  galega  virginica,  he- 
dysarums,  hemerocallises,  napsea,  peeonia,  saponaria,  silphiums  and 
rhexias,  with  many  others.  A  great  number  of  the  above  kinds  may 
now  be  taken  up  out  of  the  woods  and  fields  and  transplanted  into 
the  flower-borders  and  pleasure-grounds,  which  will  keep  up  a  regular 
succession  of  bloom  during  the  whole  summer  and  autumn. 

Let  the  plants  be  taken  up  carefully  with  balls  of  earth  about  their 
roots,  and  planted  where  necessary;  then  water  them,  and  repeat  it 
in  dry  weather,  till  they  begin  to  grow  freely  :  they  will  flower  gene- 
rally the  same  year,  and  those  that  are  truly  perennial  will  continue 
to  reward  your  labors  annually  with  a  new  display  of  their  beauty 
as  long  as  you  deserve  that  compliment,  by  rendering  them  a  foster- 
ing care. 

Here  again  would  I  call  attention  to  the  necessity  of  introducing 
into  our  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds,  a  variety  of  our  beautiful  field 
flowers,  and  not  to  suffer  those  departments  to  appear  desolated  in 
the  autumnal  months,  whilst  nature  displays  a  profusion  of  its  glory 
in  the  fields,  woods,  meadows,  and  swamps ;  but  in  doing  this,  let  it 
be  observed  to  give  each  kind  a  soil  and  situation  as  nearly  similar  to 
that  in  which  it  grew  in  its  wild  state  as  the  nature  and  extent  of 
your  ground  will  admit.  (See  pages  91  and  92.) 

Note.  On  pages  74,  87,  you  will  find  general  designs,  both  ancient 
and  modern,  for  laying  out  pleasure  grounds,  flower  gardens,  and  all 
kinds  of  ornamental  planting,  to  which  I  refer  you. 

DOUBLE  DAISIES. 

Double  daisies  may  now  be  propagated  abundantly  by  dividing  and 
slipping  the  roots;  but  these  should  be  planted  in  shady  borders,  or 
rather  in  shallow  frames,  where  they  can  be  protected  from  the  too 
powerful  influence  of  the  summer  sun,  which  would  absolutely  destroy 
them  if  left  to  its  mercy.  These  frames  will  also  be  convenient  for 
the  laying  of  boards  and  mats  over  them,  for  the  winter  protection  of 
the  plants,  without  which  most  of  them  would  perish.  They  may  be 
either  planted  in  small  pots  sunk  in  the  earth,  or  in  rows  in  the  beds, 
ten  inches  asunder,  and  plant  from  plant  six  inches  distant  in  the  row. 
Water  them  immediately  and  give  them  shade  for  a  few  days. 

PLANTING  DECIDUOUS  FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

Such  deciduous  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  as  are  yet  to  be  removed, 
should  be  transplanted  in  the  first  week  or  ten  days  of  the  month  in 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  361 

the  middle  States,  and  not  delayed  longer  in  the  eastern  States  than 
the  fifteenth.  (For  the  various  kinds  and  methods  of  planting  them, 
see  page  314.) 

PROPAGATING  FLOWERING  SHRUBS  AND  EVERGREENS. 

For  the  methods  of  propagating  all  kinds  of  hardy  flowering  shrubs 
and  evergreens,  see  the  Nursery  in  March  ;  and  also  the  work  of  the 
Nursery  in  this  month,  June  and  July,  &c. 

PLANTING  EVERGREENS. 

Every  kind  of  hardy  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  removed 
in  the  beginning  of  this  month,  with  the  best  possible  success;  but 
the  earlier  the  better.  (See  page  351.) 

Neither  the  English  broad-leaved  laurel,  Portugal  laurel,  sweet  bay, 
laurustinus,  arbutus  or  strawberry-tree,  nor  the  evergreen  cypress  can 
withstand  the  severity  of  the  winter  frosts  in  the  middle  or  eastern 
States,  with  very  few  exceptions,  in  the  former ;  and,  therefore,  must 
in  these  places  be  treated  as  green-house  plants.  In  most  parts  of 
the  southern  States  they  succeed  extremely  well ;  but  all  kinds  of 
trees  and  shrubs  will  there  require  to  be  planted  much  earlier  in  the 
season. 

In  transplanting  large  evergreens,  if  the  plants  can  be  conveniently 
taken  up,  and  brought  with  balls  of  earth  about  their  roots,  it  should 
be  done,  placing  them  in  the  holes  with  the  balls  entire;  or  pre- 
viously pour  some  water  into  each  hole,  and  with  your  spade  let  it 
and  the  earth  be  worked  up  together,  then  plant  the  roots  in  the  pap, 
and  fill  the  earth  in  about  them,  tread  it  down  gently  around  the 
stem,  and  form  it  in  a  little  hollow  at  top,  in  order  to  retain  about 
the  roots  any  water  that  may  afterwards  be  given  when  necessary. 

Such  as  are  not  treated  in  this  way  must  have  a  plentiful  watering 
immediately  after  being  planted,  to  settle  and  close  the  earth  about 
the  roots;  and  if  some  mulch  is  laid  on  the  surface  around  each  plant 
it  will  be  very  serviceable  in  preventing  the  sun  and  wind  from  dry- 
ing the  earth  too  fast. 

Stakes  should  be  immediately  placed  to  such  as  require  them, 
firmly  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  the  plants  tied  thereto. 


368 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR 


[APRIL 


PLANTING  ROSES. 


Roses  of  every  sort  may  still  be  planted  with  great  success.  (But 
for  some  remarks  worthy  of  attention,  see  the  article  on  page  316.) 
A  well  cultivated  pot-rose  should  present  the  healthy  appearance  here 
figured. 

Fig.  34. 


PLANTING  EDGINGS. 


There  is  no  plant  that  makes  so  neat  and  permanent  an  edging 
as  box;  it  may  be  planted,  for  that  purpose,  in  the  first  week  of  this 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  369 

month,  but  if  slips  or  cuttings  are  to  be  used,  they  will  require  very 
frequent  waterings  till  they  throw  out  and  establish  fibres  or  young 
roots.  Rooted  plants,  however,  or  slips  with  the  roots  attached  to 
theni,  will  succeed  well  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  if  watered 
occasionally.  (For  the  method  of  planting  and  forming  box  edgings, 
see  page  316.) 

Thyme,  hyssop,  winter  savory  and  lavender  are  sometimes  planted 
for  edgings ;  but  these  grow  rather  out  of  compass  or  get  stubby  and 
naked  by  close  clipping. 

Pinks  may  likewise  be  occasionally  planted  for  edgings,  and  will 
grow  in  tolerably  close  order  for  a  year  or  two,  and  produce  abund- 
ance of  flowers. 

Thrift,  if  neatly  planted,  makes  handsome  edgings  to  borders  or 
flower-beds,  both  in  its  evergreen  property  and  as  a  pretty  flowering 
plant  in  summer.  This  may  be  planted  either  in  a  close  edging  as 
directed  for  a  box,  or  with  a  dibble,  setting  the  plants  near  enough 
to  touch  one  another,  so  as  at  once  to  form  a  tolerable  close  row,  or, 
however,  not  above  two  or  three  inches  apart,  giving  occasional 
waterings  for  a  week  or  two  if  necessary. 

London-pride,  that  is,  the  Saxifraga  umbrosa,  will  make  a  very 
neat  edging,  and  is  to  be  planted  as  directed  for  thrift. 

Double  daisies  are  made  use  of  in  many  parts  of  Europe  for  edgings, 
and  form  very  neat  ones ;  but  they  are  not  able  to  bear  £he  heat  of 
our  summers,  which  seldom  fail  to  destroy  them  when  fully  exposed 
thereto;  nor  can  they  survive,  without  some  slight  protection,  the 
severe  winters  of  the  middle  and  eastern  States. 

Any  of  our  Sisyrincliiums,  but  particularly  the  mucronatum,  will 
make  beautiful  edgings;  they  keep  blowing  a  long  time,  look  very 
gay,  and  may  now  be  propagated  by  parting  their  roots  and  planting 
them  as  directed  for  thrift.  They  are  indigenous,  and  bear  our  sum- 
mers and  winters  well. 

Strawberries  may  be  occasionally  used  to  make  edgings  for  large 
walks,  and  answer  the  double  purpose  of  pleasure  and  profit. 

Where  box-edgings  want  trimming,  it  should  now  be  done,  although 
this  is  not  the  general  season  for  clipping  them;  but  notwithstand- 
ing, when  they  appear  in  need  of  it,  let  them  be  handsomely  dressed 
with  a  pair  of  garden  shears,  which  will  add  much  to  their  neatness. 

The  sisyrinchium  will  bear  trimming  extremely  well,  and  continue 
to  produce  flower-stems  and  flowers  notwithstanding. 

Where  any  of  the  above  edgings  have,  for  want  of  care,  grown 
into  rude  disorder,  they  should  be  taken  up,  slipped,  or  divided,  and 
replanted  in  a  close  regular  manner. 

TUBEROSES. 

To  have  this  fragrant  flower  in  tolerable  early  perfection  you  may, 
about  the  first  of  this  month,  or  any  time  in  March,  plant  a  few  roots 
in  pots  of  light  rich  mould,  one  in  each,  first  stripping  off  the  offsets, 
for  if  these  are  left  on  they  will  draw  away  a  considerable  part  of 
the  nourishment,  whereby  the  bloom  will  be  greatly  weakened.  The 
upper  part  of  the  roots,  when  planted  in  pots,  should  only  be  covered 
24 


3TO  THE  PLEASURE,  OB  [APRIL 

about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  Immediately  plunge  the  pots  to 
their  rims  in  a  hot-bed,  and  give  but  very  little  water,  if  any,  until 
the  plants  are  up  and  growing  freely;  but  afterwards  they  will  re- 
quire a  good  supply.  As  the  weather  gets  warm,  give  them  plenty 
of  air,  and  also  sufficient  head-room,  till  the  middle  of  May ;  then 
place  them  where  designed  to  flower,  first  tying  the  advancing  stems 
to  small  green  painted  sticks  to  prevent  their  being  dashed  about  by 
the  winds. 

The  time  for  planting  these  roots  in  the  open  ground  is,  in  the 
southern  States,  between  the  first  and  twentieth  of  this  month ;  the 
more  northerly,  the  later ;  in  the  middle  States,  the  last  week  in 
April  or  first  ten  days  of  May ;  and  in  the  eastern  States,  between 
the  fifteenth  and  twentieth  of  May. 

Prepare  for  them  beds  of  rich  sandy  loam,  which,  being  well 
trenched  or  dug,  divest  the  roots  of  all  the  larger  offsets,  or  of  the 
whole,  if  the  flowers  are  the  exclusive  objects,  and  plant  them  in 
rows  one  foot  asunder  and  eight  inches  distant  from  one  another 
therein,  making  small  drills  for  their  reception,  and  covering  their 
crowns  or  upper  parts  about  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  deep 
with  fine  loose  earth.  They  will  require  no  further  care  but  to  keep 
them  free  from  weeds,  and  to  support  their  flower-stems  till  Novem- 
ber, when  tjie  roots  are  to  be  taken  up  and  managed  as  then  directed, 
except  to  cut  off  the  stems  after  the  bloom  is  over.  The  offsets  are 
to  be  planted  in  like  manner,  but  somewhat  closer,  to  produce  blow- 
ing roots  for  the  ensuing  season,  as  the  old  ones  seldom  flower  well 
the  second  year,  though  they  will  increase  abundantly. 

SCARLET  AMARYLLIS. 

Its  management  and  season  of  planting  are  in  every  particular  the 
same  as  directed  for  the  tuberose ;  it  flowers  generally  in  about  a 
month  after  its  being  planted,  and  its  bulbs  do  not  ripen  sufficiently 
for  taking  up  before  November.  It  is  increased  by  offsets  from  the 
roots,  which  are  to  be  treated  as  those  of  the  tuberose.  In  order  to 
have  a  succession  of  the  flowers,  you  may  in  the  middle  States  plant 
some  of  their  roots  in  the  open  ground,  once  a  week,  from  the  twen- 
tieth of  April  to  the  middle  of  June.  And  if  the  roots  are  strong 
and  are  preserved  in  saw-dust  or  the  like,  they  will  keep  good  and 
blow  well,  even  when  planted  at  that  late  period.  However,  the 
roots  will  not  be  so  strong  the  ensuing  season,  nor  the  increase  so 
numerous,  as  if  they  had  been  planted  in  due  time. 

These  can  be  made  to  flower  during  any  of  the  winter  months,  by 
planting  some  of  the  strongest  bulbs,  which  were  taken  up  in  No- 
vember and  kept  dry  till  the  time  of  planting,  in  pots  of  light  good 
earth,  and  plunging  them  into  the  bark-pit  in  the  hot-house,  or  into 
a  good  hot-bed  :  in  a  month  or  five  weeks  after,  or  sooner,  if  the  heat 
be  regular  and  brisk,  they  will  produce  their  very  admirable  flowers. 


APRIL] 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 


3U 


GERANIUMS,  MYRTLES,  BALM   OF   GILEAD,  ETC. 

For  the  methods  of  cultivating  the  above,  and  other  green-house 
plants,  see  the  article  green-house,  in  this  month,  and  in  March. 


TRANSPLANTERS. 

Dibbers  and  trowels  are  well-known  instruments  for  the  removal 
of  plants  of  various  kinds.  In  using  the  pointed  or  semicircular 
trowel,  the  young  plants  may  be  taken  up  with  a  considerable  ball  of 
earth  attached  to  the  roots,  while  they  suffer  no  injury  by  the  pro- 
cess. A  more  perfect  mode  of  transplanting  by  the  use  of  the 
trowel,  is  that  by  taking  two  of  these,  one  in  each  hand,  thrusting 
them  down  on  opposite  sides  of  the  plant,  at  the  same  time  drawing 
the  handles  slightly  outwards ;  the  faces  of  the  trowels  are  thus  made 
to  collapse  so  much  as  to  press  the  soil  about  the  roots,  and  enable 
the  operator  to  take  the  plant,  with  ball  entire,  from  the  seed-bed  to 
its  destination,  and  to  place  it  in  its  new  abode  without  the  least 
check  to  its  growth.  We  have  figured  several  transplanters,  which 
have  been  employed  for  such  plants  as  the  brassicse,  &c.  Fig.  35 
is  called  Saul's  transplanter.  It  may  be  thus  described  :  the  blades 


Fig.  35, 


Fig.  36. 


Fig.  37. 


Fig.  38. 


are  opened  by  pressing  the  lever  a  toward  the  handle,  when  they 
open  outwards,  and  in  this  state  are  thrust  into  the  ground,  having 
the  plant  within  them ;  a  counter-pressure  causes  them  to  collapse 
and  embrace  the  ball  firmly,  and,  in  this  state,  the  instrument  being 
drawn  upwards,  brings  with  it  the  plant  and  ball  entire ;  it  is  then 
taken  to  its  new  place,  when  the  handle  is  again  pressed  inwards, 


372  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL 

and  the  blades  open  and  are  withdrawn,  leaving  the  ball  to  be  filled 
around  with  earth. 

Fig.  36  shows  a  modification  of  the  above  instrument,  wherein 
the  blades  are  opened  by  moving  the  slider  a  upwards,  and  when 
thrust  down  around  the  plant,  the  blades  collapse  by  pressing  the 
slider  downwards.  The  operation,  afterwards,  is  the  same  as  in  Fig. 
35. 

Upon  the  same  principle,  but  with  much  more  mechanical  inge- 
nuity, is  McGlashan's  transplanter,  Fig.  37,  constructed,  which  is 
admirably  adapted  to  such  operations.  These  three  collapse  upon 
the  ball  firmly — and  not  only  that,  by  their  construction  they  em- 
brace it  tighter  at  the  bottom  than  at  top,  rendering  it  next  to  im- 
possible that  the  ball  should  be  extracted,  and,  also,  that  it  cannot 
slip  out  afterwards  until  relieved  by  the  removal  of  the  pressure  upon 
it.  All  these  transplanters  are  merely  modifications  of  Fig.  38,  long 
used  in  France  for  similar  purposes.  Its  principle  will  be  readily 
seen  by  the  figure.  The  handles,  a  a,  are  pulled  outwards  when  the 
blades  are  thrust  into  the  ground.  They  are  pressed  inwards  when 
the  operation  of  lifting  upwards  is  desired. 

GRAVEL  WALKS. 

New  gravel  walks  may  be  made  any  time  this  month ;  in  the  mak- 
ing of  which,  be  very  particular  in  the  choice  of  good  and  suitable 
gravel ;  as  to  color,  you  must  be  governed  by  fancy  and  convenience, 
but  as  to  quality,  it  should  be  coarse  and  lively,  containing  a  due 
proportion  of  light  sandy  loam  to  make  it  bind  close  and  firm  at  all 
seasons ;  but  not  so  redundant  in  loam  or  clay  as  to  stick  to  the  feet 
in  wet  weather,  nor  so  sandy,  as  to  become  open  and  loose  in  dry 
weather.  As  to  the  dimensions  and  distribution  of  gravel  walks, 
see  page  77,  &c.  Agreeably  to  the  designs  there  laid  down,  or  to 
any  other  fancy  of  your  own,  stake  out  the  width  of  the  walk,  and 
proceed  to  level  the  boundary  on  each  side,  corresponding  to  the  ad- 
jacent ground,  and  form  the  cavity  of  the  walk  for  the  reception  of 
the  gravel,  observing  that  the  whole  space,  to  make  a  permanent  and 
good  walk,  should  be  dug  ten  or  twelve  inches  deep,  to  allow  for  a 
proper  depth  of  gravel,  both  to  prevent  weeds  rising  from  the  ground 
below,  and  worms  from  casting  up  the  earth  therefrom  ;  and  also  to 
allow  a  proper  depth  for  turning  the  gravel  occasionally,  when  the 
surface  becomes  foul :  the  earth  dug  out  from  the  cavity  of  the  walk, 
may  be  used  to  raise  and  level  any  hollow  parts  on  each  side,  or  con- 
tiguously situated,  which,  with  the  edgings,  if  of  box,  should  always 
be  completed  before  you  begin  to  lay  the  gravel. 

The  walks  being  thus  laid  out,  you  may  first  lay  any  stony  rub- 
bish, such  as  brick-bats,  small  stones,  &c.,  for  several  inches  deep  in 
the  bottom,  which  will  greatly  obstruct  worm  casts,  drain  off  any 
extra  moisture,  and  thereby  prevent  the  surface  from  becoming  mossy 
or  foul :  the  proper  gravel  is  then  to  be  laid  on  six  or  eight  inches 
thick ;  and  as  you  proceed  in  laying,  observe  to  rake  off  the  coarse 
parts  into  the  bottom  and  to  raise  the  middle  of  the  walk  higher 
than  the  sides  in  a  gradual  rounding  form,  just  as  much  and  no  more 


APRIL]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  313 

as  is  sufficient  to  carry  off  the  wet  to  each  side.  The  proportion  to 
be  observed  is,  a  walk  of  four  feet  wide  should  be  one  inch  and  a 
half  higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the  sides,  and  for  every  foot  after 
that  such  increases  in  width,  add  to  this  a  quarter  of  an  inch  for  the 
centre  elevation.  Rounding  the  walk  too  much  would  make  it  very 
uneasy  to  walk  on,  and  of  an  unpleasing  appearance.  Never  lay 
more  in  one  day  than  you  can  finish  off  and  roll  effectually. 

Gravel  walks  should  now,  if  not  done  in  March,  be  broken  up  and 
turned  ;  for  such  turnings  will  not  only  destroy  weeds  and  moss,  but 
will  render  them  much  more  agreeable  to  walk  on ;  besides,  the  fresh 
and  lively  surface  will  be  sightly  and  pleasing. 

Before  you  begin  to  turn  the  gravel,  the  edges  of  the  walks,  if  of 
grass,  should  be  first  neatly  dressed  with  an  edging  iron,  such  as  de- 
scribed on  page  90 ;  or,  if  planted  with  box,  they  ought  to  be  hand- 
somely trimmed  with  garden  shears;  any  borders  near  the  walks 
should  be  neatly  dug,  and  the  surface  raked  smooth;  for  when  the 
edges  and  borders  are  put  in  proper  order  they  add  much  to  the 
general  neatness.  Proceed  then  to  dig  the  walk  five  or  six  inches 
deep,  or  whatever  depth  the  fine  gravel  will  admit  of,  turning  the 
surface  clean  to  the  bottom,  and  the  fresh  gravel  below  to  the  top, 
rounding  and  dressing  the  walk  neatly  after  you,  and  rolling  the 
whole  effectually  when  done. 

In  turning  or  laying  down  gravel  walks,  always  choose  dry  wea- 
ther, and  let  the  work  be  done  in  the  most  complete  order,  as  these 
contribute  very  materially  to  the  beauty  of  the  whole  garden. 

Roll  the  walks  once  a  week  regularly  after  being  either  turned  or 
new  laid ;  such  will  render  them  firm  and  neat,  and  also  greatly  pre- 
vent the  growth  of  weeds.  It  is  a  general  rule  among  neat  garden- 
ers, who  are  allowed  sufficient  help,  to  roll  and  sweep  the  gravel 
walks  every  Saturday.  During  the  summer  it  is  of  much  advantage 
to  give  a  good  rolling  after  rain,  which  will  preserve  a  compact 
smooth  surface. 

GRASS- WALKS   AND   LAWNS. 

Grass- walks  and  lawns  may  yet  be  laid  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
States,  if  done  in  the  beginning  of  this  month;  but  if  delayed  till 
the  weather  becomes  dry,  it  will  scorch  the  turf  and  render  the  sur- 
face disagreeable.  For  the  method  of  laying  and  making  them,  see 
page  317. 

The  grass-walks  and  lawns  should  be  well  rolled  in  the  early  part 
of  the  month ;  and  afterwards,  as  the  grass  advances  in  growth,  it 
should  be  mowed  as  often  as  the  scythe  can  lay  hold  of  it,  for  this 
is  a  season  in  which  most  people  delight  to  walk  out;  consequently 
the  walks  ought  to  be  kept  in  good  order.  Besides,  were  this  neg- 
lected in  spring,  the  grass  would  become  coarse  and  rank,  and  be 
some  time  before  it  could  be  restored  to  its  proper  texture. 

Always  mow  this  short  grass  when  wet  either  by  dew  or  rain,  other- 
wise it  will  be  impossible  to  cut  it  close  or  even.  (For  the  general 
care  of  grass- walks  and  laws,  see  page  89.) 

The  edges  of  all  your  lawns  and  grass-walks  should  now  be  neatly 


374  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [APRIL 

cut  with  an  edging  iron,  if  omitted  in  last  month;  but  this  should 
be  particularly  done  to  those  edgings  next  to  gravel  walks  always 
before  the  gravel  is  turned  or  newly  laid  on,  and  afterwards  occa- 
sionally. 

STICKING  AND  TRIMMING  FLOWER  PLANTS. 

Examine  all  the  beds  and  borders,  and  place  convenient  sticks  to 
such  advancing  plants  as  require  support;  tying  them  neatly  thereto, 
which  should  be  repeated  occasionally  as  they  progress  in  growth. 
Let  them  be  made  or  cut  in  proportion  to  the  usual  height  of  each 
respective  kind,  for  it  is  awkward  to  see  a  tall  stick  set  for  the  support 
of  a  plant  of  humble  growth. 

WEEDS. 

"Weeds  of  every  kind,  both  from  roots  and  seeds,  will  now  make 
rapid  progress;  particular  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  beds  and 
borders  free  from  them,  as  on  this,  in  a  great  measure,  depends  much 
of  your  success  and  the  beauty  of  your  improvements. 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE. 


GIVING  AIR  TO  THE  PLANTS. 

Many  of  the  green-house  plants  will  now  begin  to  shoot  freely, 
therefore  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  as  much  air  as  possible,  consist- 
ent with  their  safety.  Open  the  windows  every  morning  when  the 
weather  is  mild  and  calm,  and  let  them  continue  so  till  the  cold  of 
the  afternoon  begins  to  increase,  provided  that  the  air  continues  mode- 
rately warm  all  the  time.  Too  much  confinement  at  this  season,  espe- 
cially towards  the  end  of  the  month,  when  the  heat  of  the  weather 
increases,  would  do  infinite  injury  to  the  plants  in  general,  but  espe- 
cially to  the  early  shooting  kinds ;  for  if  drawn  up  weakly  in  the 
house,  they  would  not  be  in  so  good  a  condition  to  bear  a  removal 
into  the  open  air  in  the  early  part  of  next  month,  as  if  their  vegeta- 
tion had  been  retarded  by  the  admission  of  a  due  and  salutary  circu- 
lation of  air  in  the  house  at  all  favorable  opportunities. 

WATERING. 

The  plants  will  now  require  frequent  waterings,  giving  only  a  little 
at  a  time;  but  especially  the  oranges,  lemons,  myrtles,  oleanders, 
African  heaths,  jasmins,  coronillas,  justicias,  arbutus,  laurustinus, 
and  most  of  the  woody  kinds;  and  also  the  herbaceous  green-house 
exotics  will  require  to  be  occasionally  refreshed  with  moderate 
waterings. 

Let  all  of  the  plants,  in  general,  be  often  looked  over,  to  see  where 


APRIL}  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  3f  5 

water  is  wanted,  and  let  such  as  need  it  be  supplied  therewith  accord- 
ing to  their  respective  necessities,  for  it  is  now  an  indispensable  article. 
But  moderation  and  discretion  ought  to  be  observed  in  the  dispensing 
of  it,  especially  while  the  plants  are  in  the  house,  and  particularly 
to  the  succulent  tribe.  The  latter,  such  as  aloes,  agaves,  euphorbias, 
cactuses,  crassulas,  stapelias,  mesembryanthemums,  &c.4  being  natu- 
rally replete  with  moisture,  do  not  require  much  water;  to  those  and 
other  plants  of  the  same  nature,  it  should  be  given  only  when  the 
earth  in  the  pots  appears  very  dry,  as  too  much  would  rot  them. 

SHIFTING  PLANTS  INTO  LARGER  POTS  AND  TUBS. 

Such  of  your  plants  as  require  to  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  or 
tubs  may  now  be  brought  out  in  a  mild  warm  day,  and  taken  out  of 
the  pots  or  tubs  in  which  they  have  stood,  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire  about  their  roots;  then  cut  away  such  roots  on  the  outside  as 
are  rotted  or  appear  dry  or  decayed,  and  also  some  of  the  earth  around 
the  ball.* 

Having  good  sound  fresh  earth  in  readiness,  put  some  into  each 
new  pot  or  tub,  previously  placing  a  hollow  oyster  shell  or  such  like, 
with  the  concave  side  under,  over  each  hole  in  the  bottoms;  over  this 
put  an  inch  or  two,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plant,  of  small  lumps 
of  charcoal  or  broken  crocks ;  then  set  each  plant,  with  its  ball  of 
earth  prepared  and  dressed  as  above,  into  the  middle  of  the  pot  or 
tub,  and  fill  it  with  fresh  compost,  so  as  that  the  new  earth  may  cover 
the  crowns  of  the  roots  an  inch  deeper  than  before. 

According  as  the  plants  are  thus  potted,  let  them  be  immediately 
watered  and  returned  to  their  places  in  the  green-house,  administer- 
ing the  water  occasionally  afterwards,  as  their  respective  necessities 
may  require. 

FRESH  EARTHING  THE  PLANTS. 

Such  of  the  plants  as  do  not  require  shifting  into  larger  pots,  &c., 
should  be  refreshed  with  new  earth,  as  directed  on  page  323 ;  after 
which,  give  them  a  moderate  watering  and  replace  them  in  the  green- 
house as  before. 

TRIMMING  AND  CLEANING  THE  PLANTS. 

Where  any  decayed,  straggling,  or  ill-placed  branches  appear,  either 
cut  them  off  close,  or  prune  them,  so  as  to  give  the  plants  a  neat  and 
becoming  form.  . 

Pick  off  all  decayed  leaves  as  they  appear,  and  suffer  no  weeds 
of  any  kind  to  grow  in  the  pots ;  keep  them  free  from  moss,  &c.,  by 
stirring  the  surface  earth  frequently;  wash  and  clean  the  floor  of 

*  When  the  roots  are  healthy,  it  is  "best  not  to  remove  any  of  them,  even 
though  they  be  matted,  and  always  let  the  ball  of  earth  be  moist  before 
being  removed  into  a  larger  pot,  else,  it  remains  dry,  as  the  water,  given 
afterwards,  runs  down  amongst  the  new  soil  without  penetrating  to  the 
centre. 


376  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [APRIL 

the  green-house,  and  let  everything  in  and  about  it  appear  neat  and 
lively. 

When  any  large-leaved  kinds  have  contracted  foulness,  wash  them, 
one  by  one,  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  soft  water ;  the  small-leaved 
sorts  may  be  taken  out  of  the  house,  in  a  warm  day,  and  water  poured 
over  them  out  of  a  watering  pot,  which  will  not  only  wash  off  the 
dust  but  greatly  refresh  them;  then  replace  them  as  before. 

HEADING   DOWN    SHRUBBY   PLANTS. 

Myrtles,  oranges,  lemons,  geraniums,  and  several  other  woody 
plants  that  have  got  into  a  bad  state  of  health,  may  now  be  headed 
down ;  observing  that  any  of  the  budded  kinds  should  not  be  cut  off 
below  where  they  were  worked,  except  in  cases  of  absolute  necessity, 
that  is,  when  the  wood  is  either  dead  so  far,  or  in  such  a  state  that 
no  hopes  remain  of  its  producing  new  shoots — under  such  circum- 
stances you  may  head  them  down  to  the  fresh  wood. 

By  this  means  they  will  put  out  plenty  of  strong  shoots,  near,  or 
from  the  stems,  and  form  full  regular  heads  in  two  or  three  months. 

Shifting,  or  fresh  earthing  the  plants,  as  above  directed,  will  be 
necessary  upon  this  occasion,  and  in  the  case  of  unhealthy  roots,  they 
should  be  cut  away  to  the  sound  parts,  and  the  plants  placed  in  smaller 
pots  than  those  they  previously  occupied. 

INARCHING. 

Towards  the  latter  part  of  this  month  you  may  inarch  oranges, 
lemons,  citrons,  limes,  shaddocks,  pomegranates,  and  almost  every 
other  kind  of  shrubby  plants,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on 
page  267. 

By  way  of  curiosity,  or  as  required,  you  may  inarch  a  branch  of 
an  orange  or  lemon-tree,  that  has  young  fruit  on  it,  on  one  end  of 
the  common  seedling  stocks :  it  will  be  well  united  by  the  end  of 
August,  when  it  may  be  separated  from  the  mother  plant,  in  a  full 
bearing  state. 

SOWING   SEEDS   OF   GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS,  ETC. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  sow  the  seeds  of  geraniums, 
myrtles,  oleanders,  coronillas,  lemons,  oranges,  balm  of  Gilead,  aloes, 
cannas,  buddleias,  and  cactuses;  callicarpa,  caparis,  celcias,  mimosas, 
mesembryanthemums,  centaureas  and  chrysocomas ;  cinerarias,  cis- 
tuses,  coluteas,  cyclamens,  dolichoses,  ericas  and  euphorbias ;  ferra- 
rias,  gardenias,  genistas,  heliotropiums,  indigoferas  and  lyciums; 
melias,  melianthuses,  oleas,  passifloras,  solanums,  proteas,  salvias, 
silenes,  spartiums,  teucriums,  yuccas  and  xeranthemums,  with  many 
others.  For  the  method  of  sowing  them  see  page  323.  Many  kinds 
will  not  vegetate  for  two,  three,  four  or  six  months,  and  some  not 
sooner  than  twelve ;  therefore  attend  the  pots  carefully,  and  your  pa- 
tience and  trouble  will  be  ultimately  rewarded. 


APRIL]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  371 


PROPAGATING  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  BY  CUTTINGS,  SUCKERS  AND 
LAYERSj  ETC. 

There  are  few  shrubby  plants  but  may  be  propagated  by  layers ; 
these  should  be  laid  in  the  pots  or  tubs,  agreeably  to  the  methods 
directed  on  page  300. 

Suckers  may  now  be  taken  off  where  they  appear,  and  be  planted 
in  separate  pots,  or  several  small  ones  in  the  same  pot. 

The  far  greater  number  of  all  the  green-house  plants  may  now  be 
plentifully  propagated  by  cuttings  or  slips;  such  as  laurustinus, 
myrtles,  geraniums,  balm  of  Gilead,  and  all  the  fuchsias,  jasmines, 
gardenias,  hydrangeas,  English  and  Portugal  laurels ;  oleanders,  pas- 
sion-flowers, justicias,  lagerstrcemia,  heliotropiums,  coronillas  and 
melianthuses;  acuba,  and  camellia  japonica,  buddleias,  solanums,  teu- 
criums,  proteas,  and  salvias,  with  almost  every  other  kind,  if  planted 
in  hot-beds,  and  carefully  shaded  and  watered.  Such  as  do  not  root 
freely  should  have  bell-glasses  placed  over  them  in  the  hot-bed  till 
rooted ;  this  is  the  most  effectual  way  to  insure  the  growth  of  many 
hard-wooded  kinds. 

The  roots  of  herbaceous  kinds  may  now  be  separated  and  planted 
in  different  pots  for  increase ;  the  succulent  kinds  may  also  be  pro- 
pagated by  slips,  cuttings,  and  suckers,  such  as  cactuses,  stapelias, 
mesembryanthemums,  &c.  The  succulent  sorts  should  not  be  planted 
for  a. few  days  after  having  been  taken  off,  that  the  wounds  may 
heal ;  during  which  time,  they  may  lie  on  a  shelf  in  the  green- 
house, and  when  fit,  plant  them  in  pots  of  good  sandy  earth. 

The  young  orange  and  lemon  stocks,  raised  last  year  for  budding, 
should  now,  if  not  done  before,  be  planted  into  separate  and  suitable 
sized  pots ;  and  if  then  plunged  in  a  hot-bed  till  they  have  taken 
fresh  root,  it  will  greatly  promote  their  growth.  Some  of  the  strong- 
est will  probably  be  of  sufficient  size  to  bud  in  August,  and  all  of 
them  at  that  time  twelve  months. 

CAPE   BULBS. 

Many  of  the  cape  bulbs,  mentioned  on  page  175,  will  be  now  in 
flower  ;  they  should  all  be  kept  in  the  front  parts  of  the  green-house, 
and  have  plenty  of  air,  without  which  they  will  spindle  up  and  never 
show  either  strong  or  brilliant  flowers ;  such  as  are  in  blow,  how- 
ever, are,  when  the  sun  shines  too  powerfully  on  them,  to  be,  for  the 
moment,  removed  out  of  its  rays,  or  it  will  facilitate  their  decline. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

PINE   APPLES. 

In  this  month  it  will  be  easy  to  distinguish  which  of  the  pines 
are  likely  to  produce  the  best  fruit :  this  is  not  always  common  to 


378  THE  HOT- HOUSE.  [APRIL 

the  largest  plants.  A  few  of  the  most  promising  being  marked,  a 
small  iron  rod,  made  with  a  sharp  angular  point,  may  be  thrust  down 
the  centre  of  each  sucker  arising  therefrom,  which  being  turned  two 
or  three  times  around,  will  drill  out  the  heart  and  prevent  its  growth. 
Thus  the  plants  being  sufficiently  supplied  with  water,  and  having 
nothing  to  support  but  the  fruit,  will  sometimes  grow  amazingly 
large.  But  this  method  is  not  to  be  practised  on  too  many  plants, 
as  it  would  be  attended  with  the  entire  loss  of  all  the  suckers. 


WATERING  THE  PINES. 

In  the  West  Indies,  where  pines  grow  to  the  greatest  perfection, 
rains  are  very  unfrequent  during  the  period  that  this  fruit  is  coming 
to  maturity  j  but  the  dews  are  remarkably  heavy,  therefore  it  is 
principally  supplied  with  moisture  from  the  latter,  in  imitation  of 
which  you  should  raise  artificial  dews  in  the  hot-house  by  watering 
the  walks  and  flues  frequently  in  dry  weather.  This  will  be  found 
extremely  beneficial,  not  only  to  the  pine-apple  but  to  all  other  plants 
which  are  natives  of  similar  climates,  and  by  this  management  they 
will  require  much  less  water  than  they  otherwise  would.  However, 
regular  waterings,  taking  care  to  give  but  little  at  a  time,  just  to  keep 
the  earth  moderately  moist,  will  be  necessary. 

TOP  AND  BOTTOM  HEAT. 

Continue  to  support  the  requisite  heat  in  the  hot-house  by  aid  of 
moderate  evening  fires  and  a  constant  good  heat  in  the  bark-bed ;  the 
fruiting  plants  in  particular  will  require  this.  If  the  bark  was  not 
turned  and  fresh  tan  added  thereto  in  March  it  should  be  done  in 
the  first  week  of  this  mouth,  as  there  directed ;  but  if  then  attended 
to  there  is  no  necessity  for  it  now,  as  the  pit  will  yet  continue  to  be 
in  excellent  order. 

ADMITTING  AIR. 

Air  should  now  be  admitted  in  proportion  to  the  increasing  heat 
of  the  season.  A  great  deal  depends  on  this  article,  for  without  due 
attention  to  its  utility  and  great  influence  on  the  plants  they  may,  if 
deprived  of  a  sufficiency,  be  soon  rendered  of  little  value. 

Every  warm  sunny  day,  when  the  wind  is  not  cold,  let  some  of 
the  glasses  or  lights  be  opened  a  little  way,  and  more  in  proportion 
to  the  heat  of  the  day ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  before  nine  or 
ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  they  ought  to  be  continued  open 
longer  than  while  the  air  in  the  house  keeps  up  to  a  proper  degree 
of  warmth. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  you  will  find  that  a  sufficiency  of 
air  cannot  be  admitted  by  the  upright  glasses,  therefore  it  will  be 
very  necessary  to  have  your  roof-lights  constructed  so  as  to  slide  up 
and  down  by  means  of  pulleys.  Seventy  or  seventy-two  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit  will  be  a  good  medium  for  sun-heat,  but  always  when  it 
rises  above  that  give  abundance  of  air  j  and  in  the  early  part  of  the 


APRIL]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  3f  9 

month  this  is  done  with  more  safety  by  sliding  open  a  sufficient 
number  of  the  roof-lights. 


SUCCESSION  PINES. 

The  succession  pines,  especially  those  intended  for  fruiting  next 
season,  should  be  shifted  as  early  in  this  month  as  possible  if  not 
done  in  March.  For  the  method  of  doing  it  and  the  manner  of 
treating  them  after,  see  page  325. 

The  crowns  and  suckers  of  last  season  should  now  also  be  shifted 
into  larger  pots  and  managed  in  like  manner. 

TREATMENT  OF  THE  OTHER  VARIOUS  STOVE  PLANTS. 

The  general  treatment  directed  for  the  pines  may  be  given  in 
common  to  most  other  stove  plants.  With  respect  to  shifting  or 
adding  fresh  earth  to  the  pots,  that  should  now  be  done  in  the  same 
manner  as  directed  for  the  green-house  plants ;  after  which,  if  there 
be  room  in  the  bark-bed,  let  the  pots  be  immediately  plunged  to  their 
rims  therein,  and  by  the  assistance  of  the  kindly  heat  the  plants  will 
root  freely  in  the  new  earth,  which  will  give  them  strength,  promote 
their  health,  revive  their  color,  and  prepare  them  the  better  for  a 
removal. into  the  open  air  towards  the  end  of  next  month. 

The  woody  kinds  will  now  require  frequent  and  gentle  waterings, 
the  herbaceous  occasionally;  but  the  succulent  sorts  should  get  only 
a  little  now  and  then,  as  the  earth  in  the  pots  seems  to  stand  in 
need  of  it. 

When  any  of  the  stove  plants  have  contracted  much  dust  or  other 
foulness,  such  must  be  cleaned  off  immediately;  all  decayed  leaves 
should  constantly  be  picked  away,  and  the  utmost  cleanness  pre- 
served in  all  the  house. 

Where  insects  appear  on  the  pines  or  on  any  of  the  other  plants, 
immediate  attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  destruction  of  them,  for, 
in  a  short  time,  if  neglected,  they  would  overrun  the  house  and  ruin 
many  of  the  plants.  For  the  methods  of  extirpating  them,  see 
article  Hot-house  for  February,  page  178,  &c. 

The  paying  of  due  attention  to  all  the  plants,  giving  them  suitable 
care  and  culture,  preserving  them  in  good  health,  and  keeping  the 
house  constantly  clean  and  the  plants  free  from  decayed  leaves  and 
filth,  is  the  surest  method  of  not  being  much  troubled  with  insects. 

PROPAGATING  VARIOUS  STOVE  EXOTICS. 

You  may  now  propagate  by  cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  or  seeds,  the 
various  plants  of  this  department.  Plant  the  cuttings  in  pots,  plunge 
them  in  the  bark-bed,  and  the  kinds  that  grow  by  that  method,  which 
are  very  numerous,  will  strike  root  freely ;  and,  indeed,  there  are 
very  few  sorts  but  may  be  cultivated  in  this  way,  if  covered  close  for 
some  time  with  bell-glasses  to  preserve  a  moist  atmosphere  around 
them  till  they  establish  themselves  in  the  earth  and  are  able  to  draw 


380 


THE  HOT-HOUSE, 


[APRIL 


therefrom  a  sufficient  supply  of  juices  to  replace  those  which  might 
be  exhaled  by  the  open  dry  air. 

You  may,  in  like  manner,  strike  cuttings  of  many  sorts  of  green- 
house plants,  and  of  any  curious  and  valuable  shrubs  of  the  open^ 
ground  departments. 

Sow  seeds  of  all  hot-house  plants  that  you' are  able  to  procure  and 
wish  to  cultivate ;  let  them  be  sown  in  pots,  and  if  room  can  be  had 
plunge  these  in  the  bark-bed,  give  them  occasional  watering,  and  you 
may  expect  many  kinds  to  come  up  shortly,  and  several  others  not 
for  months.  The  laying  of  panes  of  glass  over  these  pots  will 
facilitate  the  growth  of  the  seeds  by  opposing  the  ascending  mois- 
ture, and  retaining  it  about  the  surface  of  the  earth ;  but  bell-glasses 
would  more  effectually  answer  this  end. 


CARE    OF    SEVERAL   FRUITING,    FLOWERING,  AND   ESCULENT   PLANTS 
IN    THE    STOVE. 

Pay  due  attention  to  the  regular  watering  of  the  strawberries, 
kidney  beans,  cucumbers,  and  flowers  now  forcing  in  the  stove,  and 
early  in  the  month  introduce  others  to  succeed  them. 

Continue  to  keep  the  grape-vines  now  fruiting  free  from  all  unne- 
cessary shoots,  and  such  as  are  produced  from  the  axillas  of  the 
leaves,  &c.,  and  train  the  others  close  and  regular. 

A   COLD   PIT. 

It  must  be  recollected  that  to  flower  plants  is  a  very  different  thing 
from  merely  preserving  them.  A  structure  that  would  answer  per- 
fectly for  the  latter,  might  be  wholly  unsuited  for  the  former.  A 
"  cold  pit"  is  simply  a  miniature  green-house,  without  any  facilities 
for  producing  artificial  warmth.  If  the  amateur  gardener  wishes  to 

Fig.  39. 


flower  plants  in  winter,  a  small  furnace  and  flue  will  be  requisite. 
Indeed,  under  any  circumstances,  the  means  for  producing  heat  are 
desirable  to  keep  the  atmosphere  free  from  damp.  As  this  is  a  kind 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  381 

of  house  which,  we  think,  ought  to  be  more  generally  used,  we  have 
prepared  the  accompanying  plan.  The  arrangements  are  so  apparent 
that  no  detailed  description  is  deemed  necessary.  The  dimensions  of 
this  pit  are  as  follows :  inside  width,  8  feet,  height  of  back  wall  the 
same,  and  the  front  five  feet.  As  all  the  other  parts  are  in  propor- 
tion, they  can  easily  be  ascertained;  of  course,  the  length  may  vary 
to  any  extent.  If  under  twenty  feet,  the  flue  should  return  on  itself, 
as  shown  in  the  figure.  It  should  be  constructed  either  of  brick  or 
stone  ;  a  dry  situation  should  be  chosen,  and  the  bottom  covered  with 
six  inches  of  gravel,  sand,  or  coal  ashes.  It  may  be  entered  by  a 
door  at  one  end,  or  by  merely  lifting  up  one  of  the  sashes.  The 
best  covering  is  water-proof  cloth,  hung  on  rollers,  and  elevated  six 
inches  from  the  glass  by  a  portable  framework  of  laths,  so  as  to  in- 
clude a  stratum  of  air  between  the  glass  and  the  covering.  It  is 
essential  that  the  cover,  when  in  use,  should  fit  closely  round  the  pit  ; 
as  a  protection  from  frost  this  system  will  be  found  more  efficient 
and  economical  than  any  method  of  wooden  shutters.  Fire  heat  will 
eeldom  be  found  necessary,  and  all  kinds  of  green-house  plants  may 
be  kept  in  the  highest  state  of  health,  and  flower  better  than  in  a 
close,  steaming  green-house.  The  mere  exclusion  of  frost  only  is 
required,  and  the  day  temperature  may  be  allowed  as  high  as  70°  or 
75°  during  sunny  weather.  Water  must  be  carefully  administered ; 
the  dryer  everything  can  be  kept,  compatible  with  healthy  growth, 
the  better  will  it  be  for  the  plants.  A  southeast  aspect  is  best. 


MAY. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

EARLY  MELONS  AND  CUCUMBERS. 

The  early  melons  will  now  show  fruit  abundantly ;  they  must  have 
plenty  of  air,  and  protection  from  the  mid-day  sun ;  for  a  few  hours 
sunshine  at  this  season,  if  the  glasses  were  close  shut,  would  destroy 
the  whole  crop.  The  lights  should  be  taken  off,  and  the  plants  fully 
exposed  to  the  open  air,  about  the  twentieth  or  towards  the  end  of 
the  month ;  therefore  the  plants  ought  to  be  previously  and  gradually 
inured  thereto.  Should  the  beds  happen  to  be  greatly  declined  in 
heat  about  the  first  of  this  month,  a  fresh  lining  of  hot  dung  ought 
to  be  applied,  for  at  this  period  of  their  fruiting  a  brisk  bottom  heat 
is  necessary  to  the  free  swelling  of  the  fruit.  The  advantage  of  this 
will  soon  appear  very  evident.  A  slight  covering  ought  to  be  kept 
over  the  glasses  every  night,  till  about  the  tenth  of  the  month,  after 
which  they  will  need  it  no  longer;  these  should  be  taken  off  early 
every  morning,  for  light  and  plenty  of  air  will  now  be  absolutely 
necessary. 


382  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

According  as  the  melons  set,  place  a  piece  of  board  or  shingle 
under  each  fruit ;  this  will  preserve  them  from  the  damp  of  the  earth. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  the  frames  may  be  raised  by 
means  of  any  kind  of  support  at  the  corners,  and  the  plants  be  suf- 
fered to  run  out  under  them,  and  by  the  end  thereof  you  may  take 
them  totally  away. 

A  regular  supply  of  water  will  be  very  necessary ;  and  although 
melons  do  not  require  as  much  of  it  as  cucumbers,  yet  a  sufficiency 
must  be  given. 

The  early  cucumbers  will  now  be  in  full  fruiting,  and  will  require 
plenty  of  air  and  water ;  they  may  be  fully  exposed  to  the  open  air, 
in  the  middle  States,  about  the  twentieth  of  the  month,  and  in  the 
eastern  States  about  the  end  thereof. 


MAKING   HOT-BED   RIDGES    FOR   CUCUMBERS    AND    MELONS. 

The  cucumbers  and  melons  which  were  sown  last  month,  or  late  in 
March,  may  in  the  first  week  of  this  be  planted  in  hot-bed  ridges,  as 
directed  on  page  329,  or  the  seeds  may  be  sown  thereon  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner. 

The  ridges  being  made  and  earthed  as  directed  in  April,  page  329, 
mark  out  the  holes  for  the  seed,  four  feet  asunder,  and  in  form  of  a 
shallow  basin,  about  an  inch  deep,  and  nine  or  ten  inches  wide.  In 
the  middle  of  each,  sow  eight  or  nine  seeds,  and  then  put  on  bell  or 
hand-glasses.  After  the  plants  have  been  up  ten  or  twelve  days,  they 
must  be  thinned,  leaving  only  three  of  the  strongest  in  each  hole, 
drawing  a  little  earth  about  their  stems,  and  giving  a  light  watering 
to  settle  it  close  to  the  roots. 

When  the  plants  have  two  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  stopped  or 
topped,  as  directed  on  page  127,  which  see.  This  operation  is  very 
necessary  to  throw  them  into  a  fruiting  state,  before  they  run  too 
much  into  vine. 

As  the  plants  advance  in  growth,  they  must  have  gentle  and  fre- 
quent waterings,  and  plenty  of  air  admitted,  by  the  raising  of  the 
glasses  on  props,  under  which  suffer  them  to  run  out  as  they  increase 
in  growth.  The  glasses  may  be  totally  taken  off  about  the  end  of 
the  month. 


SOWING  MELONS  AND  CUCUMBERS,  IN  THE  OPEN  GROUND. 

About  the  tenth  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time,  in  the  middle 
States,  to  sow  a  general  crop  of  melons  in  the  open  ground ;  from  a 
week  to  a  month  earlier,  to  the  southward,  according  to  the  respect- 
ive situations;  and  between  the  fifteenth  and  twentieth  in  the  eastern 
States.  It  is  remarked  that  musk  and  water-melons,  cucumbers, 
pumpkins,  squashes,  gourds,  and  all  the  varieties  of  these  families,* 
may  be  sown  at  the  periods  in  which  people  generally  plant  Indian 


*  The  different  genera  of  this  family  ought  to  be  kept  as  far  asunder  as 
the  extent  of  the  garden  will  permit,  as  they  are  very  subject  to  fertilize 
with  each  other,  and  of  course  become  mixed. 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  383 

corn ;  but  in  order  to  have  them  as  early  as  possible  in  the  open 
ground,  a  few  patches  may  be  sown  ten  days  or  more  before  the  dates 
above  mentioned,  which,  with  good  care,  may  succeed  very  well, 
especially  if  the  season  proves  favorable. 

For  the  varieties  of  the  musk  or  cantaleupe  melons,  prepare  a  piece 
of  rich  sandy  ground,  well  exposed  to  the  sun ;  manure  it  and  give 
it  a  good  digging,  then  mark  it  out  into  squares  of  six  feet  every  way; 
at  the  angle  of  every  square,  dig  a  hole  twelve  inches  deep  and 
eighteen  over,  into  which  put  seven  or  eight  inches  deep  of  old  hot- 
bed dung,  or  very  rotten  manure ;  throw  thereon  about  four  inches  of 
earth,  and  mix  the  dung  and  earth  well  with  the  spade ;  after  which, 
draw  the  remainder  of  the  earth  over  the  mixture  so  as  to  form  a 
round  hill,  about  a  foot  broad  at  top.  Some  people  use  hot  stable 
dung,  under  an  idea  that  its  heat  would  promote  the  vegetation  of 
the  seed;  this  is  a  mistaken  notion,  as  in  a  few  hours  it  loses  all  it 
had  for  want  of  a  sufficient  quantity  being  together  to  promote  fer- 
mentation, and  becomes  a  dryish  wisp,  unfit,  at  least  for  the  present, 
to  afford  either  heat  or  nourishment  to  the  plants. 

When  your  hills  are  all  prepared  as  above,  plant  in  each,  towards 
the  centre,  eight  or  nine  grains  of  good  melon  seed,  distant  two  inches 
from  one  another,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep. 

When  the  plants  are  up  and  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  producing 
their  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in  each  hill ; 
the  extra  number  in  some,  may  serve  to  fill  up  deficiencies  in  others : 
draw  earth  from  time  to  time  around  the  hills,  and  as  high  about  the 
roots  of  the  plants  as  the  seed  leaves ;  when  fit,  stop  them  as  directed 
on  page  127,  after  which  keep  the  ground,  by  frequent  hoeings,  per- 
fectly free  from  weeds. 

SQUASHES. 

Squashes  of  every  kind  may  be  cultivated  as  directed  for  cucum- 
bers and  melons,  should  be  sown  at  the  same  time,  and  at  similar  dis- 
tances, with  this  difference,  that  two  plants  of  these  will  be  plenty 
for  each  hill,  and  that  they  are  easier  pleased  in  soil  and  preparation 
than  the  others. 

WATER-MELONS. 

In  order  to  have  water-melons  in  good  perfection,  you  must  fix 
upon  a  piece  of  very  light,  rich,  sandy  soil ;  prepare,  sow,  and  manage 
it  in  every  respect,  as  directed  for  cucumbers  and  melons,  only  let 
the  hills  be  nine  or  ten  feet  distant  every  way. 

PUMPKINS  AND  GOURDS. 

Pumpkins  will  require  to  be  ten  feet  distant  hill  from  hill,  two  or 
three  plants  will  be  sufficient  in  each ;  they  are  not  so  tenacious  of  a 
particular  soil  as  either  melons  or  cucumbers,  but  will  grow  freely 
in  any  dry  and  tolerably  rich  ground ;  they  are  to  be  sown  at  the 
same  time  as  directed  for  sowing  melons  and  cucumbers  in  the  open 
ground,  and  should  be  kept  constantly  clean  and  free  from  weeds. 


384  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

The  various  kinds  of  gourds,  which  are  more  cultivated  for  orna- 
ment than  use,  may  be  sown  where  they  can  be  trained  to  trellises, 
fences,  walls,  or  to  cover  arbors. 

When  you  intend  to  cultivate  either  melons,  cucumbers,  squashes, 
pumpkins,  or  the  like  kinds,  on  a  large  or  extensive  scale,  you  can 
prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough,  which  will  save  much  labor ;  and 
also,  afterwards,  as  the  weeds  advance,  plough  and  harrow  between 
the  plants  till  they  begin  to  run,  after  which,  the  hoe  must  be  used. 


SWEET  POTATOES. 

The  sweet  potato  requires  a  very  light,  sandy,  and  tolerably  rich 
soil  to  bring  it  to  good  perfection.  The  time  to  plant  it  in  the  middle 
States  is  the  first  ten  days  in  May,  or  more  generally  it  is  planted 
about  the  eighth  or  tenth  of  the  month.  It  is  remarked  that  the 
earlier  and  more  forward  crops  are  always  most  productive  and  best 
for  eating;  and  several  people,  to  accomplish  this  end,  first  sprout 
them  in  hot-beds,  and  then  plant  them  out  in  the  following  manner. 

The  ground  being  first  well  pulverized  by  ploughing  and  harrow- 
ing, &c.,  is  afterwards  laid  out  by  the  plough  in  squares  of  four  or 
five  feet  each,  and  at  the  intersections  of  the  scores  or  furrows,  hills 
are  made,  in  the  manner  directed  for  melons  and  cucumbers,  on  page 
382 ;  into  each  of  these,  one  or  two  good  sets  are  planted,  and  covered 
about  an  inch  deep,  or  a  little  better ;  as  they  advance  in  growth  the 
hills  are  enlarged  by  drawing  the  earth  up  around  them  with  a  hoe ; 
or,  by  first  cross  ploughing  the  ground,  harrow  it  with  a  very  narrow 
harrow,  and  then  finishing  and  rounding  the  hills  with  a  broad  hoe. 
They  ought  to  be  kept  constantly  free  from  weeds,  and  the  frequent 
enlargement  of  the  hills  will  encourage  the  growth  and  increase  the 
number  of  roots. 

When  they  are  cultivated  upon  a  small  scale  in  gardens,  all  this 
work  may  be  performed  with  a  spade  and  hoe. 

INDIAN  CORN. 

The  Zea  mays,  or  Indian  corn,  is  frequently  required  from  the 
gardener  for  early  use.  For  this  purpose,  procure  some  seed  of  the 
earliest  kind,  and  select  a  piece  of  dry,  sandy,  and  tolerably  rich 
ground,  in  a  warm  exposure.  After  preparing  it  as  if  for  peas,  &c., 
form  shallow  drills  about  two  inches  deep,  at  the  distance  of  six  feet 
from  each  other ;  drop  the  seed  therein  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder, 
and  two  grains  in  each  place;  strew  a  little  wood  ashes  in  the  drills, 
then  cover  the  seed  as  you  would  peas.  As  the  plants  advance  in 
growth,  earth  them  up  two  or  three  times.  For  an  early  crop  you 
may  plant  the  seed,  in  the  middle  States,  about  the  first  of  this 
month,  or  ten  days  earlier  should  the  season  prove  very  favorable. 

This  method  is  exclusively  intended  for  the  garden  culture  of  the 
small  early  kinds. 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  385 


EARLY  CAULIFLOWERS. 

The  early  cauliflower  plants,  as  they  advance  in  growth,  should 
have  the  earth  drawn  up  about  their  stems,  and  in  dry  weather  be 
occasionally  watered,  which  will  cause  the  heads  to  grow  to  a  much 
greater  size  than  they  otherwise  would. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  the  plants  will  begin  to  show 
their  flowers,  when  they  should  frequently  be  looked  over ;  and  as 
these  appear  in  an  advanced  growth,  not  before,  let  some  of  the 
largest  leaves  be  broke  down  over  them  to  defend  them  from  sun 
and  wet,  whereby  they  will  be  preserved  in  their  natural  color,  firm- 
ness, and  beauty;  for,  if  left  fully  exposed  to  the  weather,  it  would 
change  their  peculiar  whiteness  to  a  yellowish  hue,  and  occasion  them 
to  open  sooner  than  if  treated  in  this  manner. 


PLANTING  CAULIFLOWERS. 

The  plants  from  the  late  spring  sowings  should  now,  according  as 
they  arrive  at  a  sufficient  size,  be  planted  out  as  directed  on  page  329. 
Very  few  of  these  will  produce  flowers  till  October,  but  then  you 
may  expect  some  fine  heads. 


SOWING  CAULIFLOWER  SEED. 

You  may  now  sow  cauliflower  seed  for  a  late  crop.  Should  the 
plants  from  this  sowing  not  produce  heads  before  November,  they  are 
then  to  be  taken  up  and  managed  as  directed  in  that  month,  by  which 
meaEte  they  will  continue  to  produce  fine  flowers  all  winter,  when 
such  will  be  very  acceptable. 


CABBAGES. 

Draw  earth  about  the  stems  of  your  early  cabbages,  and  all  others 
that  are  advanced  in  growth ;  this  will  strengthen  them  considerably, 
and  cause  them  to  produce  fine  large  heads. 

The  earliest  will,  towards  the  middle  or  latter  part  of  this  month, 
begin  to  form  their  heads,  when  they  may  be  greatly  forwarded  in 
their  whitening  by  tying  their  leaves  together.  For  this  purpose, 
get  some  strong  bass  or  small  osier  twigs,  go  over  the  plants  row  by 
row,  and  tie  such  as  begin  to  turn  their  leaves  inward  for  heading, 
first  gathering  all  the  leaves  up  regularly.  Do  not,  however,  bind 
them  too  close,  for  that  would  occasion  their  rotting. 

This  method  may  be  practised  with  a  few  early  plants,  but  by  no 
means  with  the  principal  crop,  as  those  treated  in  that  way  never 
produce  such  large  and  firm  heads  as  they  would  if  left  to  nature. 
However,  market-gardeners  may  derive  some  advantage  from  it,  as 
the  early  produce  will  always  command  the  highest  price. 

Continue  to  plant  out  your  spring  cabbage-plants  for  autumn  and 
winter  use  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on  page  331.  Plant  also 
at  this  time  a  full  crop  of  red-pickling  cabbage  and  savoys.  All 
25 


386  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

these  will  require  an  open  situation ;  they  never  thrive  or  head  well 
near  trees,  walls,  or  shade  of  any  kind,  and  the  richer  your  ground 
the  larger- sized  heads  will  you  have.  You  may  plant  some  between 
rows  of  forward  kidney-beans  and  other  low-growing  crops,  which 
will  occupy  the  ground  when  those  are  off. 

Let  all  be  planted  out,  if  possible,  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  and 
immediately  after  give  each  a  little  water,  unless  the  ground  is 
already  sufficiently  saturated. 

Sow  now  some  early  York,  sugar-loaf,  and  other  close  quick-heart- 
ing kinds  for  summer  and  autumn  use;  likewise  savoys,  large  drum- 
head, flat  Dutch,  and  any  other  of  the  large  late-heading  sorts  for 
autumn  and  winter  cabbages,  and  also  some  of  the  red-pickling  cab- 
bage. Sow  these  seeds  as  directed  on  page  331,  and  transplant 
young  advancing  seedlings  into  beds  as  there  directed,  watering 
them  immediately,  giving  them  shade  for  a  few  days  if  necessary. 

SOWING  BORECOLE. 

You  may  now  sow  a  principal  crop  of  green  and  red-curled  bore- 
cole for  autumn,  winter,  and  spring  use,  for  an  account  of  which  see 
pages  200  and  331. 

By  sowing  the  seed  early  you  will  have  tall  strong  stems  and  large 
bushy  heads,  sometimes  growing  to  the  height  of  four  feet ;  but  the 
'largest  are  always  obtained  from  the  spring  sowings.  However,  it 
is  usual  to  continue  sowing  successive  crops  of  them  to  the  end  of 
July. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  beds  of  open  ground  tolerably  thin 
and  covered  lightly  or  raked  in  regularly.  In  dry  weather  it  will  be 
of  use  to  water  the  beds  occasionally,  both  before  and  after  the  plants 
are  up.  When  about  three  inches  high,  it  will  be  proper  to  thin  the 
seed-bed,  and  prick  out  a  quantity  therefrom  at  four  inches'  distance, 
that  the  whole  may  obtain  proper  strength  for  final  transplanting. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  those  sown  in  April  should  be 
planted  out  into  beds  of  rich  sandy  soil  in  the  manner  directed  for 
cabbages,  at  three  feet  distance  every  way,  and  afterwards  be  kept 
fr$e  from  weeds  and  the  earth  drawn  to  their  stems  as  they  advance 
in  growth.  Those  intended  for  winter  use  should  never  be  planted 
in  a  rich  fat  loam,  as  there  they  would  become  too  succulent,  and 
consequently  could  not  bear  the  frost  as  well  as  if  growing  on  a  gra- 
velly soil.  Such  as  are  designed  for  autumn  use  may  be  planted  in 
any  convenient  open  bed  that  is  tolerably  rich. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  AND  JERUSALEM  KALE. 

The  Brussels  sprouts  and  Jerusalem  kale  are  both  cultivated  in 
the  same  manner,  at  the  same  time,  and  for  similar  purposes,  as  the 
borecole.  They  may  be  now  sown  and  treated  like  the  latter,  with 
this  difference,  that  two  feet,  or  rather  two  and  a  half,  will  be  a  suffi- 
cient distance  for  the  final  transplanting  of  the  Jerusalem  kale,  as  it 
never  grows  as  tall  as  either  of  the  other  kinds. 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  381 


TURNIP  CABBAGE  AND  TURNIP  ROOTED  CABBAGE. 

For  an  account  of  both  these  varieties,  see  page  332.  The  seeds 
of  the  turnip  cabbage  may  now  be  sown,  and  the  plants  afterwards 
treated  as  directed  for  cabbages ;  only  observing  not  to  earth  them  up 
above  the  swelling  bulb  on  the  stem.  The  turnip  rooted  kind  should 
be  sown  on  a  bed  of  strong  rich  ground,  as  you  would  turnips,  and 
treated  like  them  in  every  respect;  observing  to  thin  the  plants  with 
the  hoe,  when  advancing  in  growth,  to  the  distance  of  about  sixteen 
inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be  much  larger  and  better  when  treated 
in  this  way  than  if  transplanted. 

The  early  sown  plants  of  the  former  kind  may  now  be  planted  out, 
and  afterwards  treated  as  above  observed. 


BROCCOLI. 

The  early  sown  broccoli  plants  should  now  be  planted  out  into  beds 
of  good  rich  earth,  in  an  open  situation ;  the  purple  kind  at  two  feet 
and  a  half  distance  every  way,  and  the  white  at  the  distance  of  three 
feet. 

Broccoli  seeds  of  both  these  kinds,  as  well  as  of  any  other  variety 
which  you  would  wish  to  cultivate,  should  be  sown  early  in  this  month 
for  a  second  principal  crop,  for  winter  and  spring  use.  Sow  them  in 
a  bed  or  border  of  rich  earth,  in  an  open  exposure,  each  kind  sepa- 
rate, and  rake  them  in  regularly. 

In  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  where  the  frost  is  too  powerful 
for  the  standing  out  of  these  plants  during  winter,  on  its  approach 
they  must  be  taken  up  and  planted  in  earth  up  to  their  leaves,  either 
in  cellars  or  under  sheds,  where  they  can  be  protected  from  wet  and 
very  rigorous  frosts,  and  they  will  continue  to  produce  their  fine  heads 
during  all  the  winter  months,  which  are  equal  to  any  cauliflowers. 
On  the  opening  of  spring,  plant  out  the  stalks  of  the  purple  kin$d, 
and  they  will  produce  abundance  of  the  most  delicious  sprouts;  the 
white  do  not  answer  for  that  purpose. 

These  plants,  even  if  hung  up  in  a  cellar,  would  shoot  forth  their 
flowers  or  heads  pretty  much  about  their  usual  time.  (For  a  more 
particular  account  of  them,  see  page  333.) 


MANAGEMENT  OP  BEANS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

The  early  Mazagan,  long-podded,  Windsor,  and  all  the  varieties  of 
that  species  of  bean,  should  be  topped  when  arrived  at  full  bloom 
and  the  lower  pods  begin  to  set;  this  will  greatly  promote  the  swell- 
ing of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early  maturity;  for,  having  no  ad- 
vancing tops  to  nourish,  their  whole  efforts  must  go  to  the  support 
of  the  fruit. 

This  should  be  performed  on  the  beans  in  general,  which  are  now 
in  full  blossom,  observing  to  let  the  stems  be  first  advanced  to  such 
a  due  height  as  to  have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  pods;  the  early  Maza- 
gan bean  may  be  topped  when  about  two  feet  high,  and  the  larger 


388  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

sorts  when  from  about  two  feet  and  a  half  or  a  yard,  to  three  and  a 
half  high,  according  to  the  growth  of  the  different  varieties,  and  may 
be  done  with  a  finger  and  thumb. 

But  with  respect  to  the  small  early  beans,  if  you  would  have  them 
come  in  as  soon  as  possible,  you  should  top  them  when  the  blossoms 
at  the  bottom  of  the  stalks  begin  to  open. 

Be  very  particular  to  earth  up  the  stems  of  your  beans  two  or  three 
times  in  the  course  of  their  growth,  as  this  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
their  good  success  and  plentiful  production. 

SOWING  PEAS. 

To  have  a  regular  supply  of  peas,  let  some  be  sown  at  least  twice 
in  this  month ;  but  where  a  constant  succession  is  wanted,  three  or 
four  sowings  will  be  necessary. 

The  best  sorts  to  sow  now  are  the  champion  of  England,  Wood- 
ford's  marrow,  Flack's  victory,  and  blue  imperial — these  being  the 
finest  and  largest  sorts — Prussian  blue,  &c. ;  those  that  are  sown  any 
time  this  month  will  yield  tolerably  good  crops. 

The  earlier  in  the  month,  however,  that  those  or  any  other  kinds 
of  peas  are  sown  the  more  abundantly  will  they  produce. 

You  may  now  sow  some  of  the  tall  sugar  peas,  as  directed  on  page 
334,  to  which  and  its  preceding  page,  I  refer  you  for  more  general 
instructions  on  this  subject. 

Sow,  early  in  the  month,  the  dwarf  sugar  and  dwarf  Spanish  peas, 
and  also  Bishop's  dwarf,  as  directed  on  page  334.  These  are  all 
very  delicious,  great  bearers,  and  do  not  require  sticks,  particularly 
the  two  former ;  and  when  sown  at  this  season,  are  generally  more 
productive  than  the  taller  growing  kinds. 

Hoe  and  earth  up  the  peas  which  were  sown  in  April;  this  will 
greatly  strengthen  them  and  promote  a  plentiful  bearing;  and  also 
pay  due  attention  to  the  sticking  or  placing  pea- rods  to  the  young 
rising  crops,  as  soon  as  they  have  attained  the  height  of  five  or  six 
inches.  There  is  a  great  advantage  in  allowing  sticks  of  a  suitable 
height  to  the  various  kinds,  for  the  produce  is,  generally,  not  only 
much  superior,  but  by  far  more  abundant,  often  to  more  than  double 
the  quantity  produced  by  those  that  are  permitted  to  trail  on  the 
ground.  The  sticks  should  not  only  be  sufficiently  tall,  but  also 
branchy,  that  the  plants  may  readily  take  hold;  and  they  should  be 
prepared  fan  fashion,  so  as  the  side  branches  may  extend  only  along 
the  rows. 

•  They  should  be  placed,  when  in  single  rows,  on  the  sunny  side  of 
the  drills,  as  the  plants  will  naturally  incline  that  way,  and  more 
readily  lay  hold  of  the  sticks ;  or  there  may  be  double  rows  of  sticks 
placed  to  them,  as  directed  on  page  194. 

TRANSPLANTING   LETTUCE. 

Take  advantage  of  moist  weather  to  transplant  such  of  those  sown 
in  the  two  former  months  as  are  now  fit  for  it.  The  ground  should 
be  fully  exposed,  not  encumbered  with  trees,  or  near  any  kind  of 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  389 

shade  whatever,  for  these  plants  never  form  good  heads  in  such  situ- 
ations, but  start  to  seed  immediately. 

Dig  the  ground  neatly  and  rake  the  surface  smooth,  then  dibble  in 
the  plants,  in  rows  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder,  and  near  the  same 
distance  from  one  another  in  the  rows ;  water  them  immediately,  and 
repeat  it  occasionally  till  they  have  taken  good  root. 

Such  as  are  intended  to  remain  for  heading,  where  sown,  should 
now  be  thinned  to  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance,  every  way, 
and  those  growing  among  other  general  crops  ought  not  to  be  left 
nearer  to  each  other  than  three  feet. 


SOWING   LETTUCE    SEEDS. 

Lettuce  seeds  of  various  good  kinds  should  be  sown  two  or  three 
times  this  month,  that  there  may  be  a  constant  and  regular  supply 
of  this  very  wholesome  vegetable.  The  white  Silicia,  grand  admiral, 
and  India,  are  very  proper  kinds  to  sow  now ;  the  cos  varieties  do  not 
head  like  the  other  kinds,  but  if  tied  up  as  you  do  endive  they  will 
blanch  beautifully,  and  are  extremely  crisp  and  delicious  ;  they,  how- 
ever, soon  run  up  for  seed.  The  white  and  brown  Dutch,  and  large 
cabbage  kinds  are  excellent  sorts,  and  will  succeed  well  if  sown  in  the 
early  .part  of  this  month. 

An  open  situation  must  be  chosen  in  which  to  sow  the  seeds ;  the 
ground  should  be  light  and  rich,  and  each  sort  sown  separately  and 
very  thin ;  for  if  drawn  up  close  in  the  seed-bed,  they  will  never 
head  well. 

The  beds  wherein  these  are  sown,  should  be  frequently  refreshed 
with  water  in  dry  weather,  to  promote  the  vegetation  of  the  seeds 
and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  young  plants. 

TYING   UP   EARLY  LETTUCES. 

The  various  kinds  of  cos  or  Koman  lettuce  which  are  now  begin- 
ning to  gather  and  whiten  in  the  heart,  should  be  tied  up  with  strings 
of  bass,  which  will  forward  their  whitening,  and  render  them  crisp 
and  tender  for  eating ;  but  this  must  be  done  only  by  degrees,  or  as 
they  are  wanted,  for  it  greatly  promotes  their  shooting  to  seed. 

SOWING   SMALL   SALADING. 

Sow  a  variety  of  small  salading  every  week  or  ten  days,  for  these, 
at  this  season,  shoot  on  to  seed  very  rapidly,  such  as  cresses  or  pep- 
per-grass, lettuce,  rape,  radish,  mustard,  &c.  Sow  the  seeds  in  shal- 
low drills  on  shady  borders,  cover  them  lightly,  and  give  them  occa- 
sional waterings,  without  which  they  will  be  destroyed  by  insects. 

KIDNEY   BEANS. 

A  principal  crop  of  kidney  beans  should  be  planted  in  the  first 
week  of  this  month,  and  successional  crops  about  the  middle,  and 
also  towards  the  end  thereof. 


390  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

Any  of  the  dwarf  kinds  may  now  be  planted;  such  as  the  black, 
brown,  or  red  speckled,  yellow,  cream-colored,  negro,  Canterbury, 
white,  Dutch,  Mohawk,  refugee,  and  Battersea  dwarfs.  The  cream- 
colored,  brown,  speckled,  yellow,  Mohawk,  and  white,  are  the  earliest 
sorts,  and  should  be  particularly  chosen  for  the  first  crop. 

Select  for  these  a  piece  of  light  rich  ground,  for  in  such  they  will 
always  be  most  productive.  Let  drills  be  made  for  them  with  a  hoe, 
about  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  deep ; 
drop  the  beans  therein  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from 
one  another,  draw  the  earth  evenly  over  them,  and  rake  the  surface 
lightly  to  give  the  bed  a  neat  appearance. 

These,  upon  a  more  extensive  scale,  may  be  cultivated  to  great 
advantage,  and  to  the  saving  of  much  labor  by  the  plough,  in  which 
culture  the  rows  will  require  to  be  three  or  four  feet  asunder  for  the 
convenience  of  ploughing  and  harrowing  between  them,  for  the  de- 
struction of  weeds,  and  also  for  the  landing  of  them  with  that  instru- 
ment. 

The  various  kinds  of  running  or  climbing  kidney  beans  may  also 
now  be  sown  in  drills  made  four  or  five  feet  asunder,  and  the  seeds 
planted  double  the  distance  from  one  another  of  the  dwarf  sorts. 
The  large  white  Dutch,  common  white,  and  cream-colored  runners 
are  excellent  sorts  for  this  purpose,  they  are  very  productive,  boil 
well,  and  eat  very  tender. 

When  the  plants  come  up  and  begin  to  push  their  runners,  then 
let  some  tall  sticks  or  poles  be  placed  to  each  row  for  them  to  climb 
upon.  The  runners  will  soon  catch  hold  and  twine  themselves  natu- 
rally around  the  stick  or  poles,  to  the  height  of  eight  or  ten  feet  or 
more ;  or  if  some  are  planted  in  a  row  close  against  a  wall  or  any 
high  fence  or  building,  you  may  suspend  strong  pack-thread  from 
above,  six  mches  distant,  fastened  tight  at  both  ends,  the  lower  of 
which  may  be  tied  to  the  main  stem  of  the  beans,  and  the  runners 
will  readily  ascend  around  the  strings. 

The  scarlet  runner,  though  in  Europe  considered  one  of  the  best 
bearers,  and  very  good  for  the  table,  is  here  neither  productive  nor 
esteemed,  and  is  cultivated  exclusively  for  the  beauty  of  its  flowers, 
and  for  covering  arbors,  &c. 

CAROLINA  AND  LIMA  BEANS. 

What  is  commonly  called  the  Carolina  bean,  is  only  a  small  and 
early  variety  of  the  Lima  bean :  it  may  be  planted  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month,  or  in  the  last  of  April,  if  a  favorable  season,  and  the 
ground  sandy  and  dry ;  they  may  be  cultivated  in  the  same  manner 
as  above  directed  for  the  running  kidney-beans ;  or,  in  hills,  as  they 
are  called,  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  every  way,  planting  five  or  six 
good  beans  in  each  hill,  a  few  inches  apart,  and  covering  them  about 
an  inch  and  a  half  deep.  When  the  plants  are  up  a  few  inches,  or 
before,  if  more  convenient,  place  two  or  three  tall  poles  to  each  hill 
for  them  to  climb  on,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth,  draw  the  earth 
around  the  hills  up  to  their  stems. 

The  Lima  beans  should  not  be  sown  in  the  middle  States  before 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  391 

the  first  week  of  this  month,  when  vegetation  is  very  brisk ;  for  they 
are  very  subject  to  rot  if  planted  in  cold  weather,  especially  if  the 
ground  be  replete  with  much  moisture. 

They  delight  in  a  light,  sandy,  and  tolerably  rich  soil,  and  should 
be  planted  in  hills,  as  directed  for  the  Carolina  beans,  but  at  the 
distance  of  four  feet  or  upwards,  hill  from  hill,  four  or  five  beans 
in  each,  and  the  poles  for  their  support  ought  to  be  strong  and  near 
ten  feet  high.  They  are  very  productive,  will  continue  bearing  till 
overtaken  by  the  frost,  and  are  extremely  delicious.  To  these  may 
be  added  the  red  and  white  cranberry  beans,  which  may  be  treated 
in  the  same  way  as  white  Dutch. 

RADISHES. 

Hoe,  weed,  and  thin  the  advancing  crops  of  radishes,  as  directed 
on  page  335 ;  and  continue  to  sow  a  fresh  supply  every  two  weeks, 
as  at  this  time  they  soon  shoot  to  seed  after  growing  to  any  tole- 
rable size. 

The  salmon-colored,  white  Naples,  olive  shaped,  and  white  turnip- 
rooted,  are  the  best  kinds  to  sow  now ;  you  may  likewise  sow  some 
of  the  white  Spanish  radish,  they  bear  the  warm  weather  rather  better 
than  the  other  kinds,  but  are  not  so  crisp  and  tender.  The  purple 
and  short-top  kinds  will  yet  do  very  well. 

At  this  season  these  seeds  must  be  sown  in  an  open  exposure,  on 
beds  of  rich  loose  loamy  earth,  for  if  on  a  clay  or  gravelly  soil  they 
would  become  sticky  and  good  for  nothing ;  in  order  to  have  them 
crisp  and  nice  they  should  be  frequently  watered  in  dry  weather. 

PLANTING  RADISHES  FOR  SEED. 

Transplant  radishes  for  seed  when  the  roots  are  just  in  their  prime; 
if  showery  weather,  it  will  be  a  particular  advantage. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  some  of  the  best  kinds,  long,  perfectly 
straight  rooted,  and  with  short  tops  j  having  also  regard  to  the  color 
of  the  root,  that  is,  if  of  the  purple,  or  short  topped  kind,  those  that 
are  of  a  clear  pale  red  are  preferable,  as  they  generally  eat  more 
crisp  and  mild  than  such  as  are  of  a  darker  color. 

When  intended  to  save  seed  of  the  salmon  radish,  always  prefer  the 
best  and  brightest  colored  roots,  to  preserve  the  kind  in  its  purity, 
and  particularly  those  that  have  the  shortest  tops. 

The  principal  reason  why  radishes  for  seed  are  directed  to  be  trans- 
planted is,  that,  having  drawn  up  a  quantity  for  that  purpose,  you 
can  the  more  readily  judge  of  the  goodness  of  the  roots,  taking  only 
what  are  of  the  right  sort,  otherwise  the  transplanting  of  them  would 
be  unnecessary,  and  those  not  so  treated  would  produce  a  much 
greater  quantity  of  seed. 

Plant  the  roots  by  dibble  in  rows  four  feet  asunder,  in  an  open 
situation,  one  foot  from  each  other  in  the  row,  and  give  them  a  good 
watering  immediately  after. 

Select,  also,  some  of  the  best  formed  white  and  red  turnip-rooted 
radishes  of  moderate  growth,  hoe  the  others  out  and  let  these  remain 


392  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

for  seed ;  or,  if  necessity  requires,  you  may  transplant  them ;  in  that 
case,  plant  the  bulbs  or  roots  entirely  in  the  earth,  leaving  the  tops 
free,  and  then  water  them. 

SPINAGE. 

When  spinage  is  required  in  continuation,  some  of  the  round  leaved 
sort  may  be  sown  in  a  cool  moist  loamy  soil,  every  eight  or  ten  days ; 
for  during  the  summer  months  it  starts  to  seed  immediately. 

Weed  and  thin  the  spinage  sown  last  month,  especially  what  had 
been  sowed  in  the  broadcast  way ;  and  of  your  early  crops,  both  of 
the  round-leaved  and  pricklyseeded  kinds,  leave  a  sufficiency  of  the 
best  plants  for  seed. 

NEW  ZELAND  SPINAGE  (TETRAGONIA  EXPANSA). 

This  is  a  delightful  vegetable  for  greens :  it  has  a  large  luxuriant 
leaf,  which  it  produces  in  great  quantities  in  the  dryest  summers. 
Two  or  three  dozen  plants  are  sufficient  for  a  family :  the  seeds  re- 
quire to  be  planted  the  beginning  of  this  month,  and  covered  about 
one  inch  deep.  On  the  approach  of  frost  if  the  plants  are  taken  up 
and  planted  in  a  box  and  placed  where  they  will  be  secure  from  it, 
and  have  light  and  air  occasionally,  they  will  continue  to  yield  plenty 
of  leaves. 

SOWING  CARROTS. 

Carrots  may  yet  be  sown,  especially  in  the  eastern  States,  with  a 
good  prospect  of  success,  if  done  in  the  first  week  of  this  month, 
and  even  in  the  middle  States,  if  the  season  is  any  way  backward. 
(For  the  proper  soil  and  method  of  sowing  them,  &c.,  see  pages  199 
and  336.) 

CLEANING  AND  THINNING  CARROTS  AND  PARSNEPS. 

Carrots  and  parsneps  will  now  be  advancing  fast  in  their  growth 
and  should  be  properly  encouraged.  Clear  them  from  weeds,  and 
thin  the  plants  out  to  due  distances. 

This  work  may  be  done  either  by  hand  or  hoe,  but  for  extensive 
crops  particularly  small  hoeing  is  the  preferable  method,  as  being 
the  most  expeditious,  and  by  loosening  the  surface  of  the  ground  with 
the  hoe  it  will  greatly  promote  the  free  growth  of  the  plants. 

Whatever  method  is  pursued,  it  will  be  necessary  to  free  the 
plants  from  weeds,  and  to  thin  them  to  proper  distances,  that  they 
may  have  full  liberty  to  grow  and  enlarge  their  roots.  The  general 
crops  of  carrots  should  be  thinned  to  about  six  or  seven  inches,  plant 
from  plant,  and  the  parsneps  from  eight  to  ten,  in  order  that  each 
kind  should  attain  its  utmost  perfection. 

Such  crops  of  carrots,  however,  as  are  intended  to  be  drawn  gra- 
dually for  the  table,  while  young,  need  not  be  thinned  at  first  to 
more  than  four  or  five  inches  distance,  as  the  frequent  pulling  up  of 
some  for  table  use  will  in  a  little  time  afford  the  others  sufficient 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  393 

room  to  grow  large ;  but  the  main  crops  should  be  thinned  at  once 
to  the  proper  distances. 

PRICKING  OUT  AND  PLANTING  CELERY. 

Some  of  the  early  celery  plants  from  the  seed-beds  should  now 
be  pricked  out  to  obtain  strength  previous  to  a  final  planting  in 
trenches;  by  this  method  those  left  in  the  beds  will  have  room  to 
grow  strong  and  stout.  They  should  be  planted  at  the  distance  of 
three  inches  from  one  another,  in  beds  of  rich  loose  earth,  watered 
immediately,  and  afterwards  occasionally,  till  growing  freely.  When 
they  have  acquired  sufficient  strength  in  these  beds  they  are  to  be 
planted  in  trenches  for  full  growth,  as  directed  in  June. 

Let  those  remaining  in  the  seed-beds  be  watered  to  settle  the  earth 
about  their  roots,  which  had  been  loosened  in  the  act  of  pulling  out 
the  others. 

When  of  sufficient  size  and  strength,  plant  out  into  trenches  some 
of  your  earliest  sown  plants,  as  directed  in  the  Kitchen  Garden  for 
June. 

For  the  best  method  of  obtaining  celery  in  early  perfection,  with- 
out the  assistance  of  a  hot-bed,  see  page  336. 

SOWING  CELERY  SEED. 

Sow  more  celery  seed  for  a  principal  later  crop ;  let  this  be  done 
as  directed  on  page  336.  In  hot  sunny  weather  the  shading  of  the 
bed  with  mats,  raised  a  foot  or  more  above  the  ground,  from  ten  to 
four  o'clock,  would  greatly  facilitate  the  growth  of  the  seed.  Occa- 
sional waterings  also  will  be  very  serviceable,  and  in  a  dry  season 
indispensable. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus  is  in  the  best  state  for  cutting  when  the  shoots  are  from 
two  to  four  inches  above  ground,  and  the  top  buds  or  heads  remain- 
ing close  and  compact;  soon  after  they  become  open  and  of  less  esti- 
mation. For  the  proper  method  of  cutting  them,  see  page  201. 

Keep  the  asparagus  beds  perfectly  free  from  weeds,  and  let  it  be 
remembered  to  terminate  the  general  cutting  as  soon  as  you  perceive 
the  coming-up  roots  begin  to  appear  small  or  weaker  than  usual; 
for,  if  the  cutting  be  continued  too  late  in  the  season,  it  will  greatly 
exhaust  the  roots,  and  the  next  and  succeeding  years'  produce  will 
be  diminished  in  proportion. 


BEETS. 

Weed  or  hoe  your  early  crops  of  beets,  and  thin  them,  if  in  beds, 
to  one  foot  asunder,  or,  if  in  drills,  to  eight  or  nine  inches,  plant 
from  plant.  Continue  to  sow  more,  especially  of  the  turnip-rooted 
and  long  red  beet,  for  a  succession  crop,  which  will  succeed  very  well 
if  sown  in  the  early  part  of  the  month.  A  full  and  abundant  supply 


394  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

of  this  very  excellent  vegetable  ought  to  be  cultivated  in  every  gar- 
den.    (For  the  methods  of  sowing,  see  page  203.) 

ONIONS. 

The  onions  which  were  sown  at  an  early  season,  with  an  expecta- 
tion of  their  growing  to  a  sufficient  size  for  table  use  the  first  year 
from  seed,  should  now  be  perfectly  cleared  from  weeds,  and  the 
plants  thinned  to  about  three  inches  from  one  another,  being  careful 
to  leave  the  largest  and  best.  They  should  be  thinned  at  an  early 
period,  atad  kept  totally  free  of  weeds  from  the  moment  of  their  ap- 
pearance above  ground  to  the  period  of  their  perfection. 

This  work  may  either  be  performed  by  hand  or  with  a  small  hoe. 
The  latter  is  the  quickest  method,  and  the  stirring  the  ground  there- 
with will  be  of  great  service  to  the  growth  of  the  plants.  Have  for 
this  purpose  a  small  one-hand  hoe  about  two  inches  broad,  or,  in 
want  of  this,  an  old  table-knife,  bent  a  little  at  the  end,  about  an 
inch,  by  heating  in  a  fire,  will  answer  very  well  for  small  or  mode- 
rate crops,  and  use  a  six  inch  wide  scuffle  hoe  between  the  rows. 

The  plantations  arising  from  seed  onions  should  now  be  kept  very 
clean,  and  also  the  late  sown  crops  intended  to  produce  small  bulbs 
for  next  year's  planting. 

TURNIPS. 

Hoe  and  thin  your  advancing  crops  of  turnips,  and  sow  some  more 
of  the  early  Dutch  or  early  stone  kinds  for  a  succession.  This  sowing 
should  be  performed  in  the  first  week  of  the  month,  in  order  that 
the  roots  should  have  time  to  grow  to  a  good  size  before  their  being 
overtaken  by  the  great  summer  heat  and  drought,  which'  are  very 
inimical  to  them.  In  the  doing  of  this,  take  advantage  of  moist  or 
cloudy  weather  or  immediately  after  rain,  and  sow  the  seed  on  a  bed 
of  good  mellow  ground,  thin  and  even ;  tread  it  down  and  rake  it  in 
regularly.  It  is  only  in  very  damp  and  cool  seasons,  however,  that 
these  late  sowings  will  be  of  use. 

HAMBURG  PARSLEY,  SCORZONERA,  AND  SALSAFY. 

The  young  crops  of  Hamburg  or  large-rooted  parsley,  scorzonera, 
and  salsafy,  must  now  be  carefully  cleaned  from  weeds,  and  the  plants 
should  be  thinned  or  hoed  out  to  proper  distances,  that  their  roots 
may  have  room  to  swell,  thinning  them  to  about  six  inches  asunder. 

Early  in  this  month  you  may  sow  principal  crops  of  salsify  and 
scorzonera,  for  autumn  and  winter  use ;  for  those  that  are  sown  now 
will  not  be  so  subject  to  run  to  seed  as  those  which  were  sown  in  the 
former  months,  and  their  roots  will  be  in  excellent  order  for  the  table 
during  the  entire  autumn  and  winter.*  For  a  more  particular  ac- 
count of  these  plants,  see  pages  207  and  338. 

*  Late  sown  salsafy  does  not  always  vegetate,  although  the  roots  of  such 
are  more  tender  for  winter  use.  The  seedsman  sometimes  gets  blamed  for 
this  without  reason.  Sow  early  for  surety. 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  395 


CAPSICUMS   OR  RED   PEPPERS. 

Early  in  this  month  you  may  sow  in  a  warm  exposure,  on  a  bed  of 
rich  e%rth,  seeds  of  the  various  kinds  of  capsicums  which  you  desire 
to  cultivate ;  the  large  heart-shaped  kind  is  that  which  is  more  gene- 
rally used  for  pickling;  it  is  also  the  best  flavored.  The  small  Cay- 
enne is  good  for  vinegar.  The  plants  from  this  sowing  may  be 
planted  out  in  rows  about  the  first  of  June. 

The  early  plants  raised  in  hot-beds  should,  in  the  middle  States, 
be  planted  out  finally,  as  soon  after  the  twentieth  of  this  month  as 
moist  or  cloudy  weather  may  occur ;  the  rows  must  be  two  feet  or  a 
little  better  asunder,  and  the  plants  one  foot  distant  fnom  one  an- 
other; when  planted  give  each  some  water,  and  afterwards  keep  the 
ground  free  from  weeds. 

You  may,  likewise,  at  this  time,  sow  the  seeds  in  drills  at  the 
above  distance,  covering  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  and 
when  grown  an  inch  or  two,  thin  them  to  proper  distances;  but  as 
they  bear  transplanting  extremely  well,  it  will  be  attended  with  less 
trouble  to  raise  them  in  the  seed-bed,  and  afterwards  plant  them  out. 

TOMATOES. 

Sow  the  seeds  of  tomatoes  in  the  first  week  of  the  month,  on  a 
warm  sandy  soil,  either  to  remain  for  fruiting  or  for  transplanting, 
as  directed  on  page  342. 

Plant  out  from  the  hot-beds  about  the  middle  of  the  month,  or  a 
little  later,  if  the  season  is  not  favorable,  those  plants  which  are  for- 
warded therein,  and  at  the  distances  mentioned  on  page  342.  Or 
they  may  be  planted  close  to  palings  or  fences  of  any  kind  to  which 
they  may  be  trained ;  but  a  support  of  some  kind  will  be  necessary 
in  order  to  have  them  in  the  best  perfection,  and  in  abundant  bear- 
ing. 

EGG-PLANT. 

If  omitted  to  sow  the  seed  of  the  egg-plant  last  month,  as  there 
directed,  some  should  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this,  do  a  rich 
warm  border,  to  raise  plants  for  planting  out  when  about  three  or 
four  inches  high,  as  directed  on  page  342. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  or  soon  after,  according  to  the 
season,  you  should  plant  out  for  fruiting  the  early  plants  of  this  kind 
which  were  forwarded  in  hot- beds.  A  rich  sandy  soil  is  the  most 
suitable  for  them  :  the  purple  kind  will  require  to  be  two  feet  and  a 
half  asunder ;  and  for  the  white,  two  feet  will  be  sufficient.  As  they 
advance  in  growth,  draw  some  earth  to  their  stems  in  like  manner  as 
to  cabbage  plants ;  keep  the  ground  about  them  clean,  and  you  may 
expect  fine  fruit. 

ENDIVE. 

Some  endive  may  now  be  sown  for  an  early  crop;  but  at  this  sea- 
son, it  is  very  subject  to  run  up  to  seed;  however,  when  such  is 


396  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MAY 

required,  let  it  be  sown  on  an  open  spot  of  rich  ground,  tolerably 
thick,  taking  care  to  cover  it  evenly,  or  to  rake  it  in  well. 

The  white  and  green  curled  endive  are  the  proper  sorts  to  sow 
now ;  when  the  plants  are  about  three  inches  high,  they  should  be 
transplanted  into  beds,  at  the  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  from  one 
another,  and  immediately  watered,  taking  care  to  transplant  them  in 
cloudy  or  wet  weather,  if  such  should  occur  in  due  season. 

Towards*  the  end  of  the  month  you  may  sow  some  more,  to  keep 
up  a  regular  succession,  and  although  it  is  very  difficult  to  raise  it  in 
good  perfection  at  this  season,  some  families  must  have  it  at  all 
events. 

OKRA. 

The  first  week  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  a  full 
crop  of  okra ;  and  another  sowing  may  be  made  about  the  middle 
thereof,  for  a  succession  crop ;  the  seeds  will  now  vegetate  freely  and 
the  plants  advance  apace.  For  the  method  of  sowing  them,  &c.,  see 
page  341. 

NASTURTIUMS. 

The  seed  of  the  nasturtium  may  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this 
month,  as  directed  on  page  341 ;  but  the  early  crops  of  this  kind  are 
generally  most  successful. 

SORREL. 

Either  the  common  garden  broad-leaved,  or  the  French  round- 
leaved  sorrel,  may  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  as  di- 
rected on  page  343.  Or,  the  old  standing  roots  of  either  kind  may 
be  separated  and  planted  for  increase,  in  beds  or  borders,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder ;  this  would  have  been  better 
if  done  last  month,  but  they  will  succeed  any  time  in  this  if  well 
watered  immediately  after  planting,  and  repeated  at  intervals  for  a 
few  days.  When  the  plants  shoot  up  to  seed,  cut  them  down  close, 
and  a  new  crop  of  leaves  will  be  produced ;  this  may  be  repeated 
from  time  to  time  during  the  summer  and  autumn. 

SOWING  POT-HERBS,  ETC. 

Common  and  curled  parsley  may  now  be  sown  where  it  had  been 
omitted  in  the  former  months,  as  may  also  the  seeds  of  chervil,  sweet 
basil,  coriander,  pot-marigold,  borage,  and  burnet ;  thyme,  summer 
and  winter  savory,  sweet  and  pot  marjoram,  together  with  many  other 
sorts  of  pot,  aromatic,  or  medicinal  herbs ;  observing  the  same  me- 
thod as  directed  on  page  215,  which  see.  All  those,  with  every  other 
kind  necessary,  should  be  sown  as  early  in  the  month  as  possible. 


MAY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  397 


PROPAGATING  AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  MEDICINAL  PLANTS,  BY 
CUTTINGS  AND  SLIPS,  ETC. 

You  may  yet,  if  attended  to  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  pro- 
pagate the  various  kinds  of  pot,  medicinal,  and  aromatic  plants  men- 
tioned on  page  215,  and  in  like  manner  as  there  directed;  hut  they 
will  now  require  to  be  frequently  watered,  and  if  shaded  for  some 
time  after  planting,  the  better. 


SUPPORTING  PLANTS  FOR  SEED. 

Now  support  the  stems  or  stalks  of  such  plants  as  were  planted  for 
seed.  The  onions  and  leeks  in  particular  will  require  this  care,  for 
the  stalks  of  these  will  be  run  up  to  a  good  height,  and  if  they  are 
not  secured  in  due  time,  the  winds  and  heavy  rains  will  break  them 
down. 

The  best  method  of  supporting  these  plants  is  to  drive  some  firm 
stakes  into  the  ground  along  the  rows,  placing  them  about  two  or 
three  yards  asunder;  then  let  some  thin  long  poles,  or  strong  lines, 
be  fastened  from  stake  to  stake,  close  along  each  side  of  the  seed-stalks. 

Let  the  advancing  stems  of  the  different  kinds  of  cabbages  and 
other  tall  growing  plants,  that  are  now  shooting  to  seed,  and  are  sub- 
ject to  be  borne  down  by  wind  or  wet,  be  likewise  supported  by  plac- 
ing stakes  to  them  and  tying  them  thereto  securely,  or  by  any  other 
more  convenient  method. 

CARDOONS. 

The  cardoons  which  were  sown  in  March  or  April  ought  now  to  be 
thinned  where  they  have  risen  too  thick,  that  the  plants  may  have 
room  to  grow  and  get  strength  by  next  month,  when  they  should  be 
planted  where  they  are  to  remain  for  landing  up  to  blanch. 

Thin  them  to  about  four  or  five  inches  distance,  or  some  may  be 
pricked  six  inches  asunder  on  a  nursery-bed,  to  remain  till  next  month, 
when  the  whole  should  be  transplanted  finally. 

Grive  water  immediately  to  those  that  you  prick  out,  and  if  sunny 
weather,  shade  will  be  necessary  for  a  few  days. 

DESTROYING  WEEDS. 

It  is  in  vain  to  expect  good  crops,  and  folly  to  go  to  the  expense 
of  seed  or  labor,  unless  you  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  parti- 
cularly while  they  are  young ;  therefore,  more  than  common  care 
should  now  be  taken  to  destroy  weeds  throughout  the  whole  garden, 
but  more  especially  among  the  young  rising  crops.  It  is  now  the 
most  important  work  in  the  garden ;  the  hoe  should  be  applied  be- 
tween all  the  rows  of  peas,  beans,  cabbages,  and  every  other  kind 
growing  in  drills,  and  the  weeds  which  are  close  to  the  plants  be 
pulled  up  by  the  hand. 

The  onions,  carrots,  leeks,  parsneps,  and  all  other  close  and  low 


398  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [MAY 

growing  crops,  should  be  always  kept  free  from  weeds,  from  the  mo- 
ment they  appear  above  ground  till  grown  to  their  full  size.  A  small 
hoe  may  be  applied  where  it  will  answer,  but  where  not,  hand-weeding 
must  be  practised. 

WATERING. 

Watering  in  dry  weather  is  very  necessary,  but  especially  to  the 
newly  transplanted  crops,  whether  young  seedlings,  or  plants  of  larger 
growth  finally  transplanted,  such  as  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  lettuces, 
celery,  &c.  A  plentiful  watering  should  be  given  to  each  plant  im- 
mediately after  planting  out,  and  repeated  occasionally  till  all  have 
taken  root  and  begin  to  grow.  Most  of  the  young  seedling  plants 
•will  require  it  now  and  then,  till  they  have  established  their  roots, 
and  extended  them  to  a  sufficient  depth  to  be  out  of  the  power  of 
drought. 

Water  should  generally  be  given  late  in  the  afternoon,  or  very  early 
in  the  morning,  but  the  former  is  preferable,  that  the  plants  may 
have  as  much  benefit  from  it  as  possible  before  any  part  is  exhaled 
by  the  heat  of  the  ensuing  day. 


THE   FRUIT   GARDEN. 

WALL  TREES. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month  look  over  your  wall  trees,  and 
where  you  perceive  a  superabundance  of  young  and  unnecessary  shoots 
appearing,  either  rub,  nip,  or  cut  them  clean  off  close  to  whence  they 
were  produced,  being  particular  to  leave  a  plentiful  supply  of  such 
as  are  good  and  well  placed ;  and  when  of  due  growth,  train  them  in 
at  full-length,  close  and  regular.  The  long  fore-right  shoots,  that 
is,  such  as  project  directly  towards  the  front,  ought  generally  to  be 
displaced,  except  where  some  are  wanted  for  laying  in,  to  fill  up  va- 
cant places ;  and  likewise,  any  extraordinary  vigorous  growths  arising 
in  the  middle  of  the  tree,  unless  where  necessary  to  be  preserved  for 
similar  purposes. 

Where  any  considerable  opening  appears,  and  that  but  one  or  two 
shoots  offer  in  such  place,  you  should,  after  these  have  grown  about 
a  foot  long,  shorten  them  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  they  will  soon 
after  shoot  out  again,  probably  one  from  each  bud,  to  furnish  the 
vacancy. 

Be  very  particular  as  to  apples,  pears,  plums,  and  cherries,  not 
to  shorten  or  rub  off  such  advancing  buds  as  nature  has  intended  for 
fruiting-spurs,  which  are  very  distinguishable  by  their  short  thick 
growth. 


MAY]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  399 


ESPALIERS. 

All  unnecessary,  ill-placed,  and  fore-right  shoots  on  espalier  trees 
of  every  kind,  should  now  be  rubbed  off  or  cut  away ;  they  are  only 
robbers,  and  should  consequently  be  discarded;  but  in  doing  this 
discretion  ought  to  be  observed,  and  an  abundant  supply  left  to  fur- 
nish the  trees  and  to  discharge  such  parts  of  the  ascending  juices  as 
are  not  convertible  into  wood  or  fruit. 

Apples,  pears,  plums,  and  cherries,  continue  bearing  many  years 
on  the  same  spurs  or  branches,  and  do  not  require  such  a  general 
annual  supply  of  young  wood  as  peaches,  nectarines,  &c.,  which 
always,  with  very  few  exceptions,  produce  their  fruit  from  the  pre- 
ceding year's  shoots:  yet  a  sufficiency  should  be  left  to  train  in  be- 
tween the  main  branches,  and  a  leading  or  terminal  one  to  each  branch, 
unless  the  tree  has  already  extended  as  far  as  you  desire  ;  for  it  is 
essentially  requisite  to  leave  a  sufficient  number  of  the  best  placed 
shoots  to  choose  from  in  the  general  winter  pruning.  The  shoots 
now  preserved  should  be  trained  in  regularly  to  the  espalier  at  full 
length,  for  the  reasons  assigned  in  the  winter  pruning;  see  the  Fruit 
Garden  in  January. 

Where  there  is  any  great  vacancy  it  is  proper,  towards  the  latter 
end  of  this  month,  to  shorten  some  of  the  adjoining  young  shoots  of 
the  year  to  three  or  four  buds,  to  cause  them  to  produce  a  supply  of 
lateral  branches  to  fill  the  vacant  places. 

Young  wall  and  espalier  trees  that  are  advancing  in  a  training 
state  should  also  be  attended  to  now,  in  their  early  shooting,  to  dis- 
place the  improper  and  ill-placed  growths,  and  retain  all  the  well- 
placed  shoots,  both  for  an  additional  supply  of  branches  in  the 
general  formation  of  the  trees  and  to  form  future  bearers  for  produc- 
tion of  fruit. 

THINNING  OF  FRUIT. 

Apricot,  peach,  and  nectarine  trees,  in  favorable  seasons,  some- 
times set  superabundant  crops  of  fruit  often  in  thick  clusters,  and  in 
greater  quantities  than  they  can  supply  with  a  sufficiency  of  nourish- 
ment, and  which,  if  suffered  to  remain,  would  not  only  be  poor  and 
miserable  but  would  so  exhaust  the  trees  as  to  render  it  impossible 
for  them  to  produce  good  and  sufficient  shoots  capable  of  bearing 
any  tolerable  quantity  of  fruit  the  ensuing  season,  or  perhaps  ever 
after. 

Therefore  let  them  now  be  thinned,  leaving  only  a  good,  moderate, 
regular  crop  on  each  tree;  and  the  sooner  it  is  done  the  better,  both 
for  the  trees  and  remaining  fruit,  always  leaving  the  best  placed  and 
most  promising. 

The  young  fruit  that  are  thinned  off  are  excellent  for  tarts,  &c., 
particularly  the  apricots;  but  the  others  are  also  very  good  for  that 
purpose. 

Some  people  will  consider  this  a  very  disagreeable  task,  both  on 
account  of  casting  away  so  many  fruit,  which  they  might  think  would 
do  very  well,  and  also  on  account  of  the  time  spent  in  performing 


400  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [MAY 

the  work ;  but  this  is  a  mistake,  as  the  loss  in  number  will  be  more 
than  repaid  by  the  size,  flavor,  and  excellence  of  the  remaining  fruit; 
and,  besides,  the  trees  will  be  preserved  in  health  and  vigor  for  the 
production  of  future  crops. 

This  thinning  should  not  be  confined  only  to  wall  and  espalier 
trees,  but  ought  to  be  extended  generally,  and  for  the  same  reasons, 
to  all  your  standard  peach,  nectarine,  and  apricots,  but  more  particu- 
larly to  such  as  are  young. 

When  trees  are  suffered  to  bear  a  superabundant  crop,  the  extra- 
ordinary efforts  made  to  support  their  too  numerous  offspring  often 
so  exhaust  them  as  to  bring  on  diseases,  of  which  several  do  not  re- 
cover, at  least  for  two  or  three  years. 

PROTECTING  CHERRIES  FROM  BIRDS. 

As  soon  as  your  cherries  begin  to  ripen,  hang  up  nets  before  the 
wall-trees,  and  cast  some  over  the  espaliers,  supporting  them  with 
sticks  or  branches  at  a  sufficient  distance  to  prevent  the  birds  from 
reaching  the  fruit.  Likewise,  the  casting  of  large  nets  over  standard 
cherry-trees  will  prevent  the  depredations  of  birds. 

CLEANING  THE  FRUIT-TREE  BORDERS. 

The  borders  where  wall  and  espalier-trees  grow  should  be  kept 
remarkably  clear  from  weeds,  for  these  not  only  appear  disagreeable 
and  exhaust  the  nourishment,  but  afford  harbor  for  snails,  slugs,  and 
other  crawling  insects,  to  the  detriment  of  the  fruit. 

Therefore,  when  weeds  appear  in  these  parts,  and  where  there  is 
room  to  admit  of  hoeing  between  any  crops  that  are  growing  on  the 
borders,  let  a  sharp  hoe  be  applied  to  them  on  a  dry  day,  by  which 
you  may  stop  their  progress ;  and,  as  soon  as  hoed,  rake  off  all  the 
weeds  and  rubbish,  leaving  a  clean  smooth  surface. 

INSECTS. 

At  this  season  insects  will  probably  appear  on  some  of  your  fruit- 
trees  j  when  that  is  the  case,  there  should  be  immediate  means  used 
for  their  destruction  before  they  increase  and  become  numerous.  See 
page  347. 

Watering  with  common  water  proves  very  beneficial  to  trees  infested 
with  insects,  especially  if  thrown  against  them  with  some  force,  by 
means  of  a  small  water  engine.  This  will  not  only  displace  cater- 
pillars and  many  other  insects,  but  greatly  refresh  the  trees,  espe- 
cially in  dry  weather,  and  if  often  repeated  where  insects  appear,  it 
will  considerably  diminish  their  number,  and  prevent  their  spreading. 

The  most  eligible  engines  are  such  as  have  the  pump  and  discharg- 
ing pipe  fixed  in  the  vessel  for  containing  the  water,  of  which  some 
are  of  a  moderate  size  for  carrying  about  by  the  hand,  but  larger  ones 
are  fitted  upon  a  low,  light,  three  wheeled  carriage,  for  the  more  con- 
venient removal  from  place  to  place. 


MAY]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  401 

This  engine  may  be  conveniently  used  for  watering  different  parts 
of  the  garden  in  dry  weather. 


WATERING  NEW  PLANTED  TREES. 


The  new  planted  fruit-trees  will  now  be  greatly  benefited  by  occa- 
sional watering,  which  should  always  be  given  in  the  morning,  and 
frequently  over  the  branches,  as  well  as  about  their  roots ;  this  will 
be  of  great  service  in  washing  off  any  dust  and  filth  which  their 
leaves  may  have  contracted,  and  in  opening  their  pores  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  atmospheric  moisture. 


STRAWBERRIES. 

Watering  at  this  season  will  be  extremely  salutary  to  straw- 
berries, by  causing  their  fruit  to  set  and  swell  freely;  let  it  not  be 
given  over  the  plants,  but  between  them,  lest  it  should  wash  off  the 
fecundating  pollen  from  the  flowers,  and  thereby  prevent  their  setting 
fruit. 

In  those  beds  where  the  plants  are  kept  apart  from  one  another, 
and  the  fruit  required  in  the  greatest  perfection,  the  young  advanc- 
ing runners  should  be  trimmed  off,  to  encourage  the  bloom  and  en- 
large the  fruit ;  but  when  a  supply  of  those  are  wanted  for  forming 
new  plantations,  a  sufficiency  must  be  left  for  that  purpose. 

The  edgings  of  strawberries,  round  beds  or  borders,  &c.,  should  be 
kept  within  due  bounds,  by  occasionally  cutting  away  their  advancing 
runners. 


NEWLY  GRAFTED  AND  BUDDED  TREES. 

For  the  treatment  of  such  trees  as  were  grafted  in  the  preceding 
months,  or  budded  last  summer  or  autumn,  see  the  Nursery  for  this 
month. 

THE  IMPOSTOR'S  GRAFT. 

Mention  is  made  by  Pliny,  of  a  tree  in  the  garden  of  Lucullus,  at 
Tivoli,  which  is  described  in  his  Natural  History.  On  the  trunk  of 
one  tree  he  saw  branches  which  produced  pears,  others  figs,  apples, 
plums,  olives,  almonds,  grapes,  &c. ;  but  he  adds,  that  this  wonder- 
ful tree  did  not  live  long.  Even  at  the  present  day,  the  gardeners 
of  Italy,  especially  of  Genoa,  Florence,  and  Rome,  sell  plants  of 
jasmines,  roses,  honeysuckles,  &c.,  all  growing  together  from  a  stock 
of  orange,  or  myrtle,  or  pomegranate,  on  which  they  say  they  are 
grafted.  But  this  is  a  deception,  the  fact  being  that  the  stock  has 
its  centre  bored  out,  so  as  to  be  made  into  a  hollow  cylinder,  through 
which  the  stems  of  jasmines  and  other  flexible  plants  are  easily  made 
to  pass,  their  roots  intermingling  with  those  of  the  stock.  After 
26 


402 


THE  ORCHARD. 


[MAY 


Fig.  40. 


growing  for  a  time,  the 
horizontal  distension  of 
the  sterns  forces  them 
together,  and  they  as- 
sume all  the  appear- 
ance of  being  united. 
M.  Thouin,  who  calls 
this  "The  Impostor's 
Graft"  (Gre/e  des 
Charlatans),  tells  us 
that  he  himself  tried 
the  operation  with  per- 
fect success  upon  both 
a  linden  and  an  ash- 
tree  a  foot  in  diameter. 
He  contrived  to  give 
both  of  them  heads  of 
plums,  hazels,  wild  and 
cultivated  services,  wal- 
nuts, peaches,  and 
vines,  the  branches  of 
which  were  thoroughly 
interlaced.  Of  one  of 
these  he  gives  a  figure, 
which  is  here  repro- 
duced, and  which  per- 
fectly illustrates  the 


THE    ORCHARD. 

You  should  now  pay  attention  to  the  due  formation  of  the  heads 
of  young  or  new  planted  trees ;  much  may  be  done  towards  that  by 
the  timely  displacing  of  irregular  and  unnecessary  shoots,  and  by  the 
shortening  of  luxuriant  ones. 

The  new  planted  trees  will  require  to  be  frequently  watered,  giving 
it  occasionally  to  the  branches  as  well  as  the  roots,  and  always  about 
the  hour  of  sun-setting,  or  a  short  time  before  or  after. 

Such  of  your  peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots,  but  more  especially 
the  young  trees  that  are  over-burdened  with  fruit,  must  be  deprived 
of  any  superabundance  by  a  judicious  thinning,  and  only  as  many 
left  on  as  they  have  sufficient  strength  to  support  without  injury  to 
themselves. 

Take  particular  care  to  destroy  caterpillars,  &c.,  while  yet  in  small 


MAY]  THE  VINEYARD. — THE  NURSERY.  403 

clusters,  before  they  overrun  the  trees,  and  where  worms  or  canker 
appear  in  either  stems  or  branches,  let  such  parts  be  treated  as  di- 
rected on  page  149. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

The  vines  will  now  begin  to  shoot  vigorously,  and  produce  besides 
bearing  and  other  useful  shoots,  numbers  that  are  totally  unnecessary, 
which  ought  to  be  carefully  cleared  away,  for  if  left  on,  they  would 
rob  the  fruit,  and  also  crowd  and  impoverish  those  shoots  intended 
for  next  year's  bearing.  But  in  doing  this,  you  must  be  very  par- 
ticular not  to  break  off,  in  going  between  the  vines,  such  fruiting  or 
other  shoots  as  are  necessary,  for  at  this  time  they  are  very  easily 
injured;  nor  to  annoy  in  the  least  the  blossom  buds,  which  will  early 
in  the  month  be  very  prominent.  Where  suckers  from  the  roots,  or 
shoots  from  the  under  parts  of  the  stems  appear,  let  them  be  imme- 
diately stripped  off.  The  principal  part  of  this  work,  if  attended  to 
in  due  time,  may  be  done  with  the  finger  and  thumb,  but  where  that 
will  not  answer,  you  may  now  use  the  knife  with  great  safety,  for 
although  these  plants  bleed  copiously  in  spring  when  destitute  of 
leaves,  yet  afterwards  the  exhalation  by  the  foliage  becomes  so  great, 
that  the  absorbent  roots  do  not  supply  a  fluid  so  fast  as  it  could  be 
expended  in  the  growth  of  the  plant  or  dissipated  into  the  air;  hence 
the  cause  of  the  drooping  of  various  kinds  of  plants  in  hot  weather. 

All  the  shoots  that  have  fruit  on,  and  others  that  are  strong,  well 
placed,  and  suitable  for  next  year's  bearing,  should,  when  grown  to 
a  sufficient  length,  be  carefully  and  neatly  tied  up  to  the  stakes,  pre- 
viously observing,  as  before  directed,  to  clear  away  all  unnecessary 
young  growths  arising  in  places  not  wanted,  and  to  leave  a  sufficiency 
of  the  best  for  a  proper  choice  in  the  general  winter  pruning. 

It  will  not  be  proper  at  this  time  to  cultivate  the  ground  between 
the  vines,  as  many  accidents  might  happen  thereby  to  the  blossoms 
and  young  shoots ;  but  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or  when  all 
the  vines  have  had  their  first  tying  up  (for  this  must  be  repeated  as 
they  advance  in  growth),  you  should  give  the  ground  a  general  clean- 
ing either  by  hoe  or  plough,  &c.,  as  most  convenient. 


THE    NURSERY. 


DESTROY   WEEDS. 


There  is  nothing  more  important  at  this  season,  than  the  destruc- 
tion of  weeds  in  all  parts  of  the  nursery,  for  if  you  let  any  of  them 
perfect  seeds,  your  ground  will  thereby  be  stocked  for  years  ;  there- 
fore the  hoe  must  be  applied  wherever  you  can  use  it,  and  always  be 


404  THE  NURSERY.  [MAT 

careful  to  rake  and  carry  away  all  you  hoe  or  pull  up,  for  if  left  lying 
on  the  surface  or  in  the  alleys,  many  of  them  would  there  ripen  seed 
which  would  afterwards  considerably  increase  your  labor.  Weeds 
should  never  be  suffered  to  grow  between  the  rows  of  trees,  &c.,  for 
those  rob  them  of  a  great  portion  of  the  necessary  nourishment ;  nor 
should  you,  for  the  same  reason,  ever  plant  any  kitchen  vegetables 
between  them,  as  is  practised  by  some  unskilful  and  covetous  persons. 
The  seed-beds  of  all  young  trees  and  shrubs  should  now,  in  par- 
ticular, be  kept  remarkably  free  from  weeds,  and  this  must  always 
be  done  by  a  very  careful  hand-weeding. 

WATERING   THE    SEED-BEDS. 

If  the  weather  should  now  prove  dry,  all  the  seed-beds,  but  par- 
ticularly the  evergreens,  such  as  pines  and  firs,  &c.,  ought  to  be 
frequently  watered,  taking  care  not  to  administer  it  too  hastily  lest 
it  should  wash  the  earth  from  about  the  young  roots  and  expose  them 
too  much  to  the  sun,  which  would  greatly  retard  their  growth. 

SHADING   AND    SIFTING   EARTH    OVER   SEEDLINGS. 

All  the  slow  growing  and  tender  seedlings,  especially  the  ever- 
greens, should,  after  having  newly  come  up,  be  occasionally  shaded 
from  the  too  powerful  influence  of  the  mid-day  sun,  which  would  de- 
stroy a  great  number  of  them,  particularly  while  their  small  stems 
are  in  a  tender  succulent  state. 

There  is  nothing  that  will  be  more  beneficial  to  the  young  seed- 
lings at  this  period  of  their  growth,  than  to  sift  some  fine,  light 
earth  over  them,  just  as  much  and  no  more  as  will  cover  their  stems 
up  to  the  seed  leaves ;  this  will  keep  their  roots  cool  and  moist,  and 
protect  their  steins  from  the  power  of  the  sun.  The  pines  and  firs 
in  particular,  are  very  subject  to  be  cut  off,  when  young,  at  the  very 
surface  of  the  ground,  by  the  burning  heat  thereof,  melting  away 
the  yet  soft  and  tender  stems,  while  the  leaves  do  not  appear  in  the 
least  injured. 

WATERING   NEW   PLANTATIONS. 

Watering  will  be  extremely  necessary  for  all  the  new  plantations 
of  the  more  curious  and  valuable  sorts  of  evergreens  and  flowering 
shrubs,  and  indeed  for  as  much  of  the  general  young  plantations  as 
it  can  be  extended  to  with  any  tolerable  degree  of  convenience.  It 
should  be  occasionally  given  to  the  leaves  and  branches  as  well  as 
the  roots,  for  it  will  not  only  wash  off  any  dirt  or  filth  which  they 
may  have  contracted,  but  open  the  pores  of  the  plants,  which,  in  dry 
weather,  are  many  times  almost  closed,  whereby  the  trees  suffer 
greatly ;  nor  is  the  water  poured  about  the  r.oots  only  capable  of  re- 
lieving them  when  in  that  condition ;  this  is  one  reason  why  rain  is 
much  more  effectual  than  artificial  watering :  these  waterings  should 
always  be  given  in  an  evening  after  the  heat  of  the  day  is  over,  tlyit 
the  water  may  have  time  to  soak  down  to  the  roots,  and  the  moisture 


MAY]  THE  NURSERY.  405 

be  dried  from  the  leaves  by  the  morning  sun ;  for  if  watered  in  the 
forenoon,  and  there  should  be  a  powerful  sun  soon  after,  the  leaves 
are  frequently  scalded  thereby,  the  spherical  drops  of  water  which 
remain  on  their  surface,  causing  the  rays  to  converge  to  a  focus,  and 
act  upon  them  as  a  lens  or  burning-glass. 

But  in  watering,  let  it  be  observed  not  to  give  too  much,  as  that, 
in  some  cases,  would  be  injurious.  To  avoid  these  bad  effects,  when 
water  is  necessary,  let  a  good  soaking  be  given,  and  a  mulching  of 
rotted  dung  or  litter  be  applied  on  the  surface  around  the  roots,  this 
will  prevent  the  demand  for  frequent  repetition. 

Such  plants  as  you  have  in  pots,  should  be  treated  as  directed  here- 
after for  those  of  the  green-house  department. 

feb 

PROPAGATING   EVERGREENS,  ETC.,  BY  LAYERS. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month  begin  to  propagate  such  ever- 
greens and  other  shrubs  by  layers  of  the  young  shoots  of  the  present 
year  as  do  not  succeed  well  by  layers  of  the  old  wood. 

When  the  young  shoots  are  from  eight  to  ten  or  twelve  inches 
long,  bring  them  down  to  the  earth,  and  if  strong,  you  may  slit  them 
as  directed  on  page  300,  or  if  weak,  give  them  a  gentle  twist  and 
lay  them  into  the  earth  from  two  to  six  inches  deep,  according  to 
their  size,  leaving  about  two  or  three  inches  of  the  tops  out  of 
ground ;  fasten  them  securely  with  hooked  pegs  and  draw  the  earth 
over  the  parts  laid.  When  done  give  them  a  moderate  watering,  and 
repeat  it  occasionally,  so  as  to  keep  the  earth  in  a  moist  state,  to  en- 
courage their  rooting. 

Trees  and  shrubs  in  general  root  very  freely  by  this  method, 
which  may  be  practised  on  the  various  kinds  as  they  advance  in 
growth,  both  evergreen  and  deciduous,  from  the  middle  of  this 
month  to  the  end  of  July.  Many  kinds  will  be  well  rooted  by  Oc- 
tober, and  may  then  be  taken  off  and  removed.  Such  as  are  not 
rooted  by  that  time  must  be  suffered  to  remain  another  year. 

NEWLY   GRAFTED   AND   BUDDED   TREES. 

Examine  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  which  were  grafted  in  the 
preceding  months,  and  such  as  are  well  united,  manifested  by  the 
free  shooting  of  the  grafts,  the  clay  and  bandages  may  be  taken  off, 
not,  however,  in  most  kinds,  until  the  scions  have  grown  five  or  six 
inches  long ;  the  latter  part  of  the  month  will,  generally,  be  the  pro- 
per time  for  this  examination. 

Those  that  are  not  as  well  united  as  might  be  wished,  should  have 
the  bandage  slackened  and  fresh  clay  applied  to  them  as  in  the  first 
instance,  or  the  clay  may  be  applied  without  the  bandage,  which  will 
preserve  the  wounds  from  the  weather,  and  greatly  promote  the 
growth  of  the  bark  over  the  headed  parts  of  the  stocks ;  this  may 
be  left  on  till  it  falls  off. 

Suffer  no  shoots  to  remain  that  arise  from  the  stocks  below  the 
grafts ;  all  should  be  looked  over  once  a  week,  and  when  such  appear, 


406  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY 

let  them  be  immediately  rubbed  off,  that  the  whole  nourishment  may 
go  to  the  support  of  the  scions. 

The  trees  which  were  budded  last  summer  must  also  be  carefully 
and  frequently  looked  over,  and  all  improper  shoots  rubbed  off. 

As  the  shoots  from  the  inoculations  advance  in  growth,  they 
should  be  tied  gently  to  the  spurs,  left  for  that  purpose  at  the  time 
of  heading  the  stocks,  that  they  may  not  be  broken  off  by  winds  or 
other  accidents. 


SEEDLINGS  IN  POTS  OR  TUBS. 

The  pots  and  tubs  of  the  more  rare  and  delicate  seedling  plants 
should  now  be  kept  constantly  in  the  shade  where  they  may  have 
only  the  morning  sun  till  nine  or  ten  o'clock,  and  that  of  the  after- 
noon, after  four;  they  must  be  frequently  watered  and  kept  free  from 
weeds.  A  little  earth  sifted  over  them,  as  directed  for  other  seed- 
lings, will  be  of  great  service. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

DAHLIAS,  OR  GEORGIANS.* 

Of  this  beautiful  plant  there  is  an  endless  variety ;  they  are  ori- 
ginally a  native  of  Me'xico,  where  they  grow  in  great  quantities. 
They  were  introduced  into  England  in  1806,  and  were  cultivated  for 
some  time  before  any  of  the  double  varieties  were  obtained,  which  is 
done  by  raising  from  seed.  They  generally  produce  seed,  which  is 
sown  and  treated  as  other  annuals,  generally  flowering  the  first  season  ; 
but  you  cannot  judge  of  the  quality  of  a  fine  flower  until  the  second 
year ;  sometimes  those  which  produce  single  or  semi-double  flowers 
the  first  season  will  give  five  double  ones  the  second. 

They  are  also  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots,  and  by  cuttings 
from  the  young  shoots,  which  is  the  method  employed  to  increase  the 
double  varieties.  The  proper  time  to  plant  the  roots  is  the  beginning 
of  this  month,  and  the  plants  about  the  .twentieth ;  they  will  grow 
and  thrive  in  any  common  garden  soil,  but  are  much  finer  when  culti- 
vated in  fresh  loam  well  enriched  by  rotted  stable  manure  and  guano. 
When  you  plant  them  it  is  necessary  to  place  a  good  strong  stake  to 
each,  and,  as  they  advance  in  growth,  tie  them  up  to  it,  to  prevent 
their  being  broken  off  by  the  wind.  The  dahlias  vary  in  height  from 
two  to  eight  feet,  so  that  when  they  are  planted  it  is  necessary  to 
proportion  the  stake  to  the  height  of  the  plant,  for  it  looks  very  awk- 
ward to  see  a  low  growing  plant  with  a  tall  stake.  Through  the  sum- 

*  The  enthusiasm  of  florists  has  now  brought  this  flower  to  perfection 
in  symmetry,  and  it  forms  an  indispensable  requisite  to  our  flower  gardens 
in  the  fall  months.  There  are  all  shades  of  color,  excepting  pure  blue,  from 
a  snowy  whiteness,  down  to  maroon  black. 


MAY]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  40T 

mer,  should  the  weather  prove  dry,  it  will  increase  their  flowers  mate- 
rially to  water  your  plants  every  evening. 

In  October,  when  the  leaves  and  stalks  are  killed  with  the  frost, 
it  is  necessary  to  cut  down  the  stalks  to  within  six  inches  of  the 
ground,  and  let  them  remain  so  for  a  few  days  that  the  roots  may 
be  well  refined,  otherwise  they  are  not  so  likely  to  keep  during  the 
winter  or  vegetate  in  spring.  As  you  take  them  up  label  each  plant 
separately  with  the  name,  color,  and  height,  as  it  will  assist  you  to 
diversify  the  different  varieties  in*  planting.  The  better  way  to  label 
them  is  to  write  the  name  on  a  small  wooden  tally,  and  tie  it  on  the 
root  with  good  twine,  or  fine  wire  is  preferable.  Keep  them  in  winter 
secure  from  frost  by  putting  them  in  dry  sand  or  saw-dust,  and  placing 
them  in  a  cellar. 

HYACINTHS. 

Continue  to  defend  the  beds  of  the  more  curious  hyacinths,  yet  in 
full  blow,  as  directed  last  month,  or  they  may  be  defended  either  by 
boards  or  by  mats  laid  occasionally  on  hoops  placed  archwise  over  the 
beds  for  their  support.  These  should  be  laid  on  every  day,  when  the 
sun  shines  powerfully,  about  nine  or  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and 
taken  off  at  four  or  five  in  the  afternoon. 

When  hyacinths  are  past  flower,  let  them  always  be  fully  exposed 
to  the  weather,  except  in  very  heavy  torrents  of  rain,  from  which 
they  should  be  carefully  protected. 

It  is  the  practice  in  Holland  to  take  up  the  bulbs  about  a  month 
after  the  bloom  is  completely  over,  in  the  following  manner :  as  soon 
as  the  plants  begin  to  put  on  a  yellowish  decayed  appearance,  they 
take  up  the  roots  and  cut  off  the  stem  and  foliage  within  an  inch  or 
half  an  inch  of  the  bulb,  but  leave  the  fibres,  &c.,  attached  to  it ; 
they  then  place  the  bulbs  again  on  the  same  bed,  with  their  points 
towards  the  north,  and  cover  them  about  an  inch  deep  with  dry  earth 
or  sand  in  form  of  a  ridge,  or  in  little  cones  over  each  bulb :  in  this 
state  they  remain  about  three  weeks  longer,  and  dry  or  ripen  gra- 
dually; during  which  period  the  bed  is  preserved  from  heavy  rains 
or  too  much  sun,  but  at  all  other  times  exposed  to  the  full  air:  at  the 
expiration  of  this  period,  the  bulbs  are  taken  up,  and  their  fibres, 
which  are  become  dry  and  withered,  cut  or  gently  rubbed  off;  they 
are  then  placed  in  a  dry  room  for  two  or  three  weeks,  and  are  after- 
wards cleaned  from  any  soil  that  adheres  to  them,  their  loose  skins 
taken  off,  with  such  offsets  as  may  be  easily  separated. 

When  this  dressing  is  finished ;  the  bulbs  are  wrapped  up  in  sepa- 
rate pieces  of  paper,  or  buried  in  sand,  made  effectually  dry  for  that 
purpose,  where  they  remain  till  the  return  of  the  season  for  planting. 

Another,  and  less  troublesome  mode  of  treatment  after  bloom, 
though  perhaps  more  hazardous,  is  to  suffer  the  roots  to  remain  in 
the  beds  till  the  stems  and  foliage  appear  nearly  dried  up  and  con- 
sumed ;  this  will  seldom  happen  to  be  the  case  in  less  than  two 
months  after  bloom ;  the  bulbs  are  then  to  be  taken  up,  cleaned  from 
the  fibres,  soils,  &c.,  and  spread  to  dry  and  harden  on  the  floor  of  an 
airy  room,  for  about  three  weeks,  then  to  be  preserved  in  sand  or 


408  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY 

paper  as  before  directed.  Or  they  may  be  deposited  in  dry  barley 
chaff,  saw-dust,  or  kept  on  open  shelves  out  of  the  sun  and  wet ;  but 
too  much  exposure  to  the  air  often  destroys  many  roots,  and  materi- 
ally injures  the  whole. 

Others  again  take  up  the  roots  at  the  first  mentioned  period,  cut- 
ting off  the  flower  stems  but  not  the  foliage,  and  prepare  a  bed  of 
light  earth,  either  where  the  hyacinths  had  grown,  or  in  any  other 
convenient  place ;  forming  it  into  a  high  sloping  ridge,  east  and 
west ;  on  the  north  side  of  which, 'they  place  the  roots  in  rows,  so  as 
that  the  bulbs  do  not  touch,  and  in  a  horizontal  manner,  covering  the 
roots  and  fibres  with  the  earth,  and  suffering  the  leaves  to  hang  down 
the  ridges ;  here  they  remain  till  the  bulbs  are  sufficiently  ripened, 
and  then  are  taken  up  and  treated  as  before. 

TULIPS. 

Continue  to  protect  the  fine  late  tulips,  yet  in  flower,  as  directed 
last  month  on  page  356,  and  treat  them  in  every  respect  as  there 
advised. 

As  soon  as  the  petals  or  flowers  fall,  the  seed-vessel  of  each  should 
be  immediately  broken  off,  or  if  suffered  to  remain  and  ripen  seed,  it 
would  procrastinate  the  maturity  of  the  roots,  and  considerably  weak- 
en them. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or  rather  when  the  grass  or  foliage 
becomes  of  a  yellowish-brown,  not  before,  which  will  happen  sooner 
or  later,  according  to  season,  climate,  soil  and  situation,  and  a  few 
inches  of  the  top  or  stem  appear  dry,  purplish,  and  withered,  you 
are  to  take  up  the  roots  of  such  as  you  particularly  esteem ;  for  this 
is  the  critical  period  for  that  work,  because  if  done  earlier,  they 
would  be  weak  and  spongy,  and  deferred  later,  their  juices  would  be- 
come gross ;  which  would  appear  manifest  at  the  succeeding  bloom, 
by  too  great  a  redundance  of  colorific  matter  in  the  petals,  and  the 
flowers  would  be  what  is  generally  termed  foul. 

When  the  roots  are  taken  up,  they  are  to  be  laid  in  a  dry  shady 
place  and  gradually  dried;  observing  to  keep  each  variety  of  the 
superb  kinds  separate,  that  in  planting,  you  may  know  how  to  diver- 
sify the  bed,  according  to  fancy,  either  as  to  intermixture  of  colors, 
or  the  usual  height  and  growth  of  the  plants.  About  five  or  six 
weeks  after  the  bulbs  are  taken  up  and  properly  dried,  it  is  proper  to 
take  off  their  loose  skins,  fibres,  and  offsets;  the  last  brown  skin 
which  is  so  intimately  connected  with  the  root,  ought  to  be  left  on ; 
after  which  they  should  be  preserved  in  dry  sand,  barley  chaff,  saw- 
dust, or  rolled  up  in  separate  papers,  till  the  time  of  planting,  for 
the  action  of  the  air  during  our  warm  summers  and  autumns  would 
greatly  weaken  and  injure  them,  by  drying  up  part  of  their  juices. 

The  smallest  and  weakest  offsets,  particularly  such  as  are  not  pro- 
vided with  a  brown  skin,  ought  to  be  replanted  as  soon  as  they  are 
taken  up,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  in  a  fresh  sandy  loam,  and 
in  a  dry  situation ;  or  instead  of  replanting  these  offsets  so  early, 
they  may  be  preserved  from  the  drying  influence  of  the  air  by  bury- 


MAY]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  409 

ing  them  in  dry  sand  till  October,  when  they  are  to  be  planted  as 
already  mentioned. 

Common  tulips,  planted  in  the  borders  of  the  pleasure-ground,  &c., 
need  not  be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  two  or  three  years,  to 
separate  the  offsets,  and  replant  the  bulbs  in  fresh  earth. 

RANUNCULUSES. 

The  weather  in  this  month  is  generally  very  clear  and  hot ;  the 
ranunculuses  ought  to  be  shaded  at  such  times  from  the  mid-day  sun, 
by  means  of  lofty  hoops  and  mats,  or  by  some  better  contrivance, 
that  will  admit  light  and  air  freely ;  a  frame  and  cover,  similar  to 
that  directed  for  hyacinths  on  page  354,  would  answer  best,  if  ex- 
pense and  trouble  were  not  to  be  considered :  it  will,  however,  be 
absolutely  necessary  to  shade  them,  in  some  manner,  during  the 
period  of  bloom,  otherwise  they  will  continue  but  a  short  time,  espe- 
cially the  dark  rich  colored  sorts ;  for,  in  proportion  as  their  colors 
approach  to  black,  is  the  injury  they  will  receive  from  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  if  it  is  permitted  to  shine  upon  them  in  full  force ;  some  of 
the  very  darkest  cannot  stand  it  a  day  without  being  entirely  deprived 
of  their  beauty.  The  light  colored  sorts  will  bear  the  sun's  rays 
much  better,  reflecting  them  in  proportion  as  they  approach  to  white; 
green  is  the  only  color  that  reflects  and  absorbs  the  rays  of  light  in 
«qual  proportion,  and  consequently,  is  more  predominant  in  the 
vegetable  kingdom  than  any  other. 

During  the  continuance  of  the  bloom,  the  earth  around  the  roots 
must  be  occasionally  watered  as  directed  on  page  357,  but  when  that 
is  over,  they  will  require  it  but  seldom,  and  not  at  all  should  gentle 
showers  of  rain  occur  now  and  then,  but  shading  in  the  middle  of 
hot  days  will  be  very  beneficial  to  the  plants ;  it  tends  to  prolong 
their  vegetation,  and  the  size  and  substance  of  the  roots  are  thereby 
increased.  For  their  further  treatment,  see  the  Flower  Garden  in 
June. 

A   DESCRIPTION    OF   THE    PROPERTIES    OF   A   FINE    DOUBLE    RANUN- 
CULUS. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  straight,  and  from  eight  to  twelve 
inches  high,  supporting  a  large  well-formed  flower,  at  least  two  inches 
in  diameter,  consisting  of  numerous  petals,  the  largest  at  the  outside, 
and  gradually  diminishing  in  size  as  they  approach  the  centre,  which 
should  be  well  filled  up. 

The  blossom  should  be  of  a  hemispherical  form,  and  its  compo- 
nent petals  imbricated  in  such  a  manner  as  neither  to  be  too  close 
and  compact  nor  too  widely  separated,  but  have  rather  more  of  a  per- 
pendicular than  of  a  horizontal  direction,  to  display  its  colors  with 
better  effect. 

The  petals  should  be  broad,  and  have  perfectly  entire  well  rounded 
edges ;  their  colors  should  be  dark,  clear,  rich,  or  brilliant,  either  con- 
sisting of  one  color  throughout,  or  be  otherwise  variously  diversified 


410  THE  PLEASURE,  OK  [MAY 

on  an  asb,  white,  sulphur,  or  fire  color  ground,  or  regularly  striped, 
spotted,  or  mottled,  in  an  elegant  manner. 

There  are  more  numerous  varieties  of  beautiful  double  ranuncu- 
luses than  of  any  other  flower,  and  we  may  add,  that,  neither  them 
nor  yet  anemones  will  give  satisfaction  unless  well  attended  to  accord- 
ing to  these  directions. 


ANEMONES. 

Gentle  and  moderate  waterings  will  be  necessary  for  anemones, 
during  their  period  of  flowering,  as  well  as  for  ranunculuses;  the 
blossoms  and  petals  of  the  former  are  of  a  more  soft  and  flexible 
texture  than  those  of  the  latter,  and  are  consequently  more  liable  to 
receive  injury  from  high  winds  and  heavy  rains ;  their  colors  soon 
fade  when  exposed  to  a  strong  sun  ;  it  is,  therefore,  equally  necessary 
to  shade  and  shelter  them  whilst  in  bloom,  in  order  to  prolong  the 
extreme  beauty  of  their  flowers. 

Anemones  continue  longer  after  bloom  in  a  state  of  vegetation 
than  ranunculuses,  probably  because  of  their  greater  degree  of  succu- 
lency ;  and  even  at  the  proper  time  to  take  them  up,  it  will  some- 
times happen,  that  part  of  their  foliage  will  not  be  entirely  divested 
of  greenness  and  moisture ;  when  it  thus  happens,  which  it  does  more 
frequently  in  rainy  or  wet  seasons,  much  skill  is  necessary  to  ascer- 
tain the  critical  period  to  take  up  the  roots ;  for  if  they  are  suffered 
to  remain  toe  long,  especially  if  the  season  be  moist,  they  will  shoot 
afresh,  and  be  thereby  materially  weakened  and  injured ;  it  is  indeed 
better  to  take  them  up  too  early,  than  suffer  them  to  vegetate  in  this 
manner,  but  the  roots  will  not  be  so  firm  and  solid  as  if  done  at  the 
exact  time.  The  safest  and  most  effectual  method  to  preserve  them 
from  these  disagreeable  consequences,  is  to  keep  off  all  heavy  rains 
after  the  bloom  is  quite  over,  by  means  of  mats  and  hoops,  but  on 
no  account  suffer  the  ground  to  become  too  dry;  the  roots  will  then 
regularly  and  gradually  mature,  and  the  foliage  in  due  time  will  be- 
come brown  and  dry,  which  will  point  out  the  true  time  to  take  up 
the  roots,  and  this  will  usually  happen  to  be  about  a  month  after 
bloom. 

For  their  subsequent  treatment,  see  the  Flower  Garden  for  next 
month. 

EARLY  FLOWERING  BULBS. 

Any  curious  bulbs  that  are  now  in  flower,  may  be  much  prolonged 
in  bloom  and  beauty  by  occasional  shade  from  the  sun. 

Spring  crocuses,  snow-drops,  fritillaries,  crown-imperials,  dens 
canises,  and  all  other  early  flowering  bulbs  that  have  done  flowering, 
should,  where  intended,  be  taken  up  as  soon  as  their  leaves  decay. 

This  ought  to  be  constantly  practised  with  such  as  have  stood  un- 
removed  two  or  three  years,  in  order  to  separate  the  offsets,  and  to 
select  the  best  roots  for  new  planting,  for  without  this  care  the  bulbs 
would  become  numerous,  and  so  small  as  to  render  the  flowers  very 
insignificant.  The  offsets,  when  separated,  may  be  immediately 


MAY]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  411 

planted  in  beds  or  prepared  borders,  to  increase  the  stock  and  enlarge 
their  size ;  or  they  may  be  kept  up  as  well  as  the  largest  of  the  roots 
till  found  convenient  to  plant  them. 

All  these  kinds,  when  taken  up,  should  be  placed  in  the  shade  to 
dry,  and  when  sufficiently  so,  preserved  in  dry  sand  or  saw-dust,  &e., 
till  the  time  of  planting,  which,  for  these,  should  not  be  delayed  latec 
than  October,  nor  even  till  then  if  not  taken  good  care  of,  as  they  do 
not  keep  well  out  of  ground,  especially  if  exposed  long  to  the  air. 

AUTUMN  FLOWERING  BULBS. 

The  autumnal  crocuses,  amaryllises,  and  colchicums,  should  be 
taken  up  as  soon  as  their  leaves  decay,  the  offsets  separated,  and  all 
replanted  again  before  the  end  of  July :  they  are  by  no  means  to  be 
kept  longer  out  of  the  ground,  as  that  would  prevent  their  flowering 
in  due  perfection  in  autumn,  which  is  their  proper  season. 

CARE  OF  SEEDLING  BULBS. 

The  boxes  of  seedling  tulips,  hyacinths,  narcissuses,  and  other 
bulbous  kinds,  arising  from  the  seeds  sown  last  autumn,  should  be 
now  placed  in  the  shade,  carefully  preserved  from  the  mid-day  sun, 
and  the  plants  refreshed  now  and  then  with  a  little  water :  a  small 
portion  of  loose  earth  sifted  over  them  would  be  of  great  benefit. 

AURICULAS   AND   POLYANTHUSES. 

The  first  week  of  this  month,  or  immediately  after  your  fine  auri- 
culas and  polyanthuses  have  done  flowering,  is  a  very  proper  time  to 
repot  and  slip  them,  as  directed  in  the  Flower  Garden  for  last  month; 
after  which  they  must  be  treated  during  the  summer  and  autumn,  as 
there  advised.  (See  page  360.) 


CARNATIONS. 

The  fine  carnations  in  pots  should  now  have  due  care  and  good  at- 
tendance ;  they  should  be  watered  according  to  their  necessities,  and 
as  their  flower  stems  advance,  small  neat  sticks,  for  their  support, 
should  be  placed,  one  in  each  pot,  to  which  they  are  to  be  tied ;  these 
ought  to  be  at  least  three  feet  long,  tapering  a  little  from  the  bottom 
to  top,  and  painted  green  j  they  should  be  substantial  and  straight, 
and  their  lower  ends  are  to  be  forced  into  the  earth  in  the  centre  of 
each  pot,  sufficiently  deep  and  firm  not  to  be  shaken  loose  by  the 
wind.  As  the  stems  continue  advancing  in  height,  the  tying  is  to 
be  repeated  at  about  every  five  or  six  inches. 

The  pots  may  now  be  removed  to  the  stage,  and  remain  there  till 
the  time  of  bloom. 

If  any  small,  green  winged  insects  appear  on  the  stems  or  foliage 
of  the  plants,  they  must  be  effectually  extirpated,  either  by  washing 
the  infested  parts  with  a  strong  infusion  of  tobacco-water,  or  dusting 


412  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY 

some  Scotch  or  fine  snuff  over  them  early  in  the  morning,  whilst  yet 
wet  with  the  dew  of  the  night. 

The  common  carnations  in  the  borders  will  require  to  be  kept  free 
from  weeds,  and  as  their  stems  advance  they  should  be  tied  up  neatly 
to  sticks  placed  for  that  purpose.  (For  the  further  treatment  of  car- 
nations see  the  Flower  Garden  next  month.) 

PINKS. 

Your  choice  pinks  in  pots  will  require  due  attention  at  this  time; 
they  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds — frequently  watered,  and  not  too 
much  exposed  to  the  mid-day  sun  in  hot  water.  (For  further  par- 
ticulars see  next  month.) 

TUBEROSE  AND    SCARLET   AMARYLLIS. 

The  first  week  of  this  month  is,  in  the  middle  States,  the  best  pe- 
riod for  planting  the  roots  of  the  tuberose  and  scarlet  amaryllis ;  for 
the  method,  see  pages  369  and  370. 

SOWING  ANNUAL   FLOWER   SEEDS. 

Most  kinds  of  annual  flower  seeds  may  yet  be  sown,  if  done  in  the 
early  part  of  this  month ;  but  the  first  week  thereof  will  be  a  very 
proper  time  to  sow  the  seeds  of  the  most  tender  kinds,  such  as  the 
various  sorts  of  flowering  dolichos,  tri-colors,  mesembryanthemums, 
ipomrea  quamoclit,  browallia,  sensitive  plant,  and  vinca  rosea,  &c. ; 
the  last  two,  however,  though  often  considered  as  annuals  from  their 
flowering  the  same  season  in  which  they  were  sown,  are  not  truly  so, 
as  they  will  continue  for  several  years  if  preserved  in  a  hot-house  : 
to  do  them  justice  they  should  be  sown  in  pots,  and  forwarded  under 
frames  and  glasses,  or  else  the  sensitive  plant  will  not  display  its 
sensibility  so  well,  nor  will  the  vinca  rosea  flower  in  due  time  :  the 
dolichoses  should  be  sown  to  cover  arbors,  &c.,  as  may  also  the  ipo- 
mcea  quamoclit,  convolvulus  purpureus,  scarlet  kidney  beans,  &c. ;  or 
they  may  be  sowed  in  small  patches,  and  neat  poles  placed  for  them 
to  climb  on. 

(For  the  various  kinds,  &c.,  see  pages  863  and  364.) 

TRANSPLANTING   ANNUALS. 

You  may  now  transplant  various  kinds  of  annuals  from  the  early 
sowing  into  beds,  borders,  or  pots,  as  you  think  proper,  observing  to 
give  them  shade  and  water  till  well  rooted,  or  to  transplant  them  in 
moist  or  cloudy  weather. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  month,  the  various  beds,  intended  for 
the  purpose,  may  be  filled  with  verbenas,  heliotropes,  salvias,  cupheas, 
petuneas,  Nurembergias,  tea-scented  China,  and  Bourbon  roses,  re- 
montant carnations,  and  all  such  continual  blooming  plants,  that 
have  been  wintered  in  the  green- house  or  cold  frame. 


MAY]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  413 


SOWING   PERENNIAL   FLOWER-SEEDS,  ETC. 

The  seeds  of  most  kinds  of  perennial  and  biennial  flower-seeds, 
may  yet  be  sown  as  directed  on  page  365 ;  but  they  will  require  oc- 
casional watering  till  up  and  well  established  in  the  earth. 

PROPAGATING   DOUBLE   SCARLET   LYCHNIS. 

This  beautiful  flowering  plant  may  now  be  propagated  by  cuttings 
of  the  stocks,  as  well  as  at  an  earlier  period  by  slips  from  the  root. 
Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  let  some  of  the  young  flower- 
stalks  be  cut  into  lengths  of  six  or  seven  inches,  and  planted  in  a 
shady  border  of  rich  light  earth,  leaving  one  or  two  joints  of  each 
cutting  above  ground;  close  the  earth  well  about  them,  water  them 
gently,  and  if  bell  or  hand-glasses  are  placed  over  them,  their  rooting 
will  be  greatly  facilitated  thereby. 

THE   HESPERTS   MATRON  ALIS,  OR   GARDEN -ROCKET. 

The  double  white,  and  double  purple  varieties  of  the  garden-rocket, 
are  extremely  beautiful  and  fragrant;  I  have  not  yet  had  the  plea- 
sure of  seeing  one  of  them  in  this  country,  nor  have  I  been  able  to 
learn  that  such  is  to  be  found  on  this  side  the  Atlantic;  however,  it 
is  to  be  hoped  we  shall  soon  obtain  that  charming,  showy,  and  de- 
lightful flower.*  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  maybe  cultivated  at  this 
season,  as  above  directed,  for  the  double  scarlet  lychnis,  or  by  slips 
or  offsets  from  the  root,  taken  off  and  planted  either  in  spring  or  au- 
tumn ;  it  does  not  prosper  well  except  when  annually  slipped  or  pro- 
pagated by  offsets ;  for  the  old  roots  are  very  subject  to  decay,  espe- 
cially the  double  varieties  ;  the  single  sorts  are  much  more  permanent 
and  easy  of  culture.  The  ladies  of  Europe  are  extremely  fond  of  it, 
whence  it  obtained  the  name  of  dame's- violet,  or  queen's  gillyflower. 

DOUBLE  WALL-FLOWERS  AND  STOCK-GILLYFLOWERS. 

The  fine  double  wall-flowers,  and  double  stock-gillyflowers,  may 
now  be  propagated  by  young  slips  of  the  present  year  :  choose  those 
of  short  and  robust  growths,  from  four  to  five,  or  six  inches  long, 
and  let  them  be  carefully  slipped  or  cut  with  a  knife  from  the  mother 
plants.  Take  the  lower  leaves  off,  so  that  there  may  be  two,  three, 
or  four  inches  of  a  clean  stem  to  each,  and  plant  them  in  a  shady 
border  or  in  pots,  inserting  them  into  the  earth  up  to  their  leaves  ; 
then  give  some  water,  and  be  particular  to  shade  them  from  the  mid- 
day sun  till  they  have  taken  root.  Water  them  occasionally  during 
summer,  and  in  September,  such  as  are  planted  in  borders  may  be 
taken  up  with  balls  of  earth  and  potted,  in  order  to  lie  placed  in 
frames,  &c.,  for  protection  from  the  winter  frosts. 

The  double  varieties  are  accidentally  produced  from  seed,  and  it  is 

*  The  double  white  is  now  in  many  collections  in  this  country,  and  the 
double  purple  has  been  often  imported,  but  for  some  unknown  cause  it 
generally  dies  out  after  a  short  time. 


414  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN.  [MAY 

very  rare  to  meet  with  such  among  seedling  plants  of  the  wall-flower, 
perhaps  not  one  out  of  five  hundred  would  prove  double,  but  the  gil- 
lyflowers produce  numbers  of  double  flowers  from  seed,  especially  if 
it  is  saved  from  semi-double  varieties ;  the  full  double  never  produc- 
ing any.  The  beginning  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  to  sow 
the  seed  of  either  of  these  or  of  their  varieties. 

GUERNSEY  LILLY. 

The  Amaryllis  sarniensis,  or  Guernsey  lily.  The  leaves  of  this 
most  beautiful  flower  will  generally  be  decayed  towards  the  end 
of  this  month,  when  the  roots  may  be  taken  up,  and  the  offsets 
separated;  they  may  be  re-planted  in  pots  immediately,  or  if  dried 
first  in  the  shade,  be  preserved  in  dry  sand,  &c.,  and  planted  any 
time  before  the  end  of  July,  but  are  not  to  be  kept  up  longer,  as 
they  flower  in  September  or  October.  When  the  winter  frost  ap- 
proaches, the  pots  are  to  be  removed  into  a  garden-frame,  where 
they  may  have  occasional  protection  during  the  winter  months,  or 
they  may  be  placed  in  the  front  windows  of  the  green-house.  Their 
roots  do  not  increase  numerously  when  removed  oftener  than  every 
third  year,  and  in  the  summer  months  they  ought  to  be  kept  in  the 
shade  and  gently  watered  now  and  then ;  but  as  their  roots  are  in  a 
dormant  state  during  that  time,  too  much  water  would  totally  destroy 
them. 

TRANSPLANTING  PERENNIAL   AND   BIENNIAL    SEEDLINGS. 

Many  of  the  early  sown  perennial  and  biennial  flower  plants,  will 
in  the  course  of  this  month  be  fit  to  transplant  into  nursery  beds, 
where  they  should  be  set  at  a  distance  of  six  inches  from  one  ano- 
ther, there  to  remain  to  get  strength  till  September  or  October,  when 
they  should  be  removed  with  balls  of  earth,  and  finally  planted  where 
intended  to  flower. 

SUPPORTING  FLOWER-PLANTS. 

Sticks  must  now  be  placed  to  such  flowering  plants  as  want  sup- 
port; in  doing  this,  have  regard  to  the  natural  size  and  height  of 
each  kind,  and  let  the  sticks  be  in  proportion ;  fix  them  down  firm 
on  that  side  in  which  they  can  be  least  seen  ;  for  although  the  in- 
tent is  to  keep  the  plants  upright  and  of  neat  appearance,  yet  the 
means  should  be  concealed  as  much  as  possible,  and  similar  care  ought 
also  to  be  observed  in  tying  up  the  plants. 

Likewise,  climbing  and  trailing  plants  of  every  kind  should  have 
timely  support  of  sticks  or  stakes  proportioned  to  their  respective 
growths,  and  their  stems  or  shoots  conducted  thereto  in  a  proper 
manner. 

WEEDS. 

More  than  ordinary  care  should  now  be  taken,  to  keep  all  your  beds 
and  borders  free  from  weeds,  but  more  especially  those  in  which 
small  seedlings  are  growing. 


MAY]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  415 

GRASS  AND  GRAVEL  WALKS. 

The  grass-walks  and  lawns  should  now  be  duly  mowed  and  rolled, 
otherwise  the  grass  will  soon  grow  rank  and  unsightly;  and  where 
plantain  or  any  other  kind  of  weeds  are  mixed  therewith,  they  ought 
to  be  picked  or  grubbed  out,  or  else  many  of  their  seeds  will  ripen, 
and  thereby  increase  their  species,  which  will  overpower  the  grass 
and  render  the  verdure  less  agreeable. 

The  gravel-walks  should  also  be  kept  in  complete  order,  pre- 
serving them  always  free  from  weeds,  and  having  them  occasion- 
ally swept  to  clear  away  all  loose  litter,  and  likewise  well  rolled, 
generally  once  a  week,  but  particularly  after  heavy  showers  of  rain, 
which  well  consolidate  them,  and  render  the  surface  smooth  and 
even. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

AIR  AND  WATER. 

During  the  first  ten  days  of  this  month,  and  in  the  middle  States, 
the  last  week  of  April,  the  doors  and  windows  ought  to  be  kept  open, 
night  and  day,  in  order  to  harden  and  prepare  the  plants  for  a  re- 
moval into  the  open  air ;  an  extraordinary  change  of  weather,  how- 
ever, may  sometimes  render  it  prudent  to  close  them  at  night,  but 
that  should  not  be  done  at  this  seasod  except  in  cases  of  necessity. 

Water  must  now  be  given  to  every  plant  according  to  its  nature 
and  in  proportion  to  its  necessity,  as  observed  last  month;  the 
oranges,  lemons,  myrtles,  and  other  woody  kinds,  will  require  it  fre- 
quently; it  is  impossible  to  say  how  often  ;  the  state  of  the  earth  in 
which  they  grow  will  readily  denote  it;  it  should  always  be  kept 
moist  but  not  wet.  The  succulent  tribe  must  yet  get  it  but  sparingly. 

SHIFTING. 

Such  plants  as  were  not  removed  into  larger  pots  or  tubs  in  the 
preceding  months,  and  that  still  require  it,  may  now  be  shifted  as 
directed  on  page  375 ;  but  this  must  be  done  in  the  first  week  of 
the  month,  keeping  them  afterwards  in  the  shade  till  they  begin  to 
grow  freely. 

Loosen  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  pots  and  tubs,  and  refresh  with 
new  compost  such  as  had  been  neglected  in  April. 

PRUNING  AND  HEADING. 

You  may  still  prune,  trim,  and  head  such  of  your  plants  as  are 
in  need  of  that  treatment ;  but  let  it  be  done  early  in  the  month, 
and  as  directed  on  pages  821,  322,  and  376,  which  see. 


416  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [MAY 


PROPAGATING  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Continue  to  propagate  most  kinds  of  plants,  by  cuttings,  suckers, 
seeds,  and  layers,  as  directed  on  pages  324  and  o77.  The  China, 
tea-scented,  and  Bourbon  roses  may  now  be  increased  abundantly  by 
cuttings,  they  will  strike  root  freely,  and  flower  handsomely  in 
autumn. 

SEEDLING  ORANGES  AND  LEMONS. 

The  seedling  oranges  and  lemons  raised  from  the  late  sowings  of 
last  year  should,  early  in  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  be  trans- 
planted into  separate  pots ;  they  ought  to  be  watered  immediately, 
and  shaded  from  the  sun  till  newly  rooted.  If  plunged  into  a  hot- 
bed or  bark-bed  for  two  or  three  weeks,  and  carefully  shaded  from 
the  mid-day  sun?  it  will  greatly  facilitate  their  rooting,  and  promote 
their  growth. 

The  early  sown  seedlings  may,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month, 
be  planted  separately  into  small  pots,  and  treated  in  like  manner. 

You  may  yet  sow  the  seeds  of  oranges  and  lemons  in  pots  or  boxes, 
for  stocks ;  they  will  rise  freely  without  any  artificial  heat,  and  make 
tolerable  progress  during  the  season. 


INARCHING. 

Inarching  may  now  be  performed  on  oranges,  lemons,  and  any 
other  plants  that  you  desire  to  propagate  in  that  way,  for  the  method 
see  page  267. 

BRINGING  OUT  THE  GREEN- HOUSE  PLANTS. 

About  the  tenth  of  this  month,  two  or  three  days  earlier  or  later, 
according  to  the  season  and  situation,  you  may,  in  the  middle  States, 
begin  to  bring  out  the  more  hardy  kinds  of  green-house  plants,  such 
as  the  viburnum  tinus,  prunus  lauro-cerasus,  prunus  lusitanica,  nerium 
oleander,  hydrangea  hortensis,  myrtles,  pomegranates,  oranges,  lemons, 
magnolia  grandiflora,  lagerstroemia  indica,  daphne  indicum,  and  all 
the  other  hardy  kinds :  the  more  tender,  and  tenderest  sorts,  are  to 
be  brought  out  successively,  so  that  the  entire  may  be  abroad  by  the 
twentieth  of  the  month. 

In  the  eastern  States  this  work  must  be  delayed  for  a  week  or  two 
longer,  according  to  the  respective  climates,  and  not  attempted  while 
there  is  any  danger  remaining  from  night  frosts;  but  when  this  is 
over,  the  sooner  the  plants  are  taken  out  the  better,  especially  the 
more  hardy  kinds :  by  no  means  ought  they  to  be  continued  a  day 
longer  in  the  house  than  their  preservation  from  frost  and  cold  severe 
weather  requires,  as  at  this  season  the  young  shoots  of  many  kinds 
will  be  growing  freely,  and  if  deprived  of  the  benefit  of  the  open 
air,  they  would  become  weak  and  sickly. 

Generally,  when  the  plants  are  first  brought  out  of  the  green-house, 


MAY]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  417 

it  would  be  advisable  to  place  them  in  a  warm  situation  where  the 
wind  can  have  but  little  power ;  about  ten  or  twelve  days  after  they 
will  be  somewhat  hardened  to  the  open  air,  and  may  then  be  removed 
to  the  places  where  they  are  to  remain  during  the  season. 

Every  plant,  as  soon  as  brought  out,  should  be  cleared  from  all 
decayed  leaves,  dust  and  foulness  of  every  kind,  and  the  heads  of  the 
whole  ought  to  be  watered  all  over  by  means  of  a  watering  pot  or  a 
hand  engine,  which  will  greatly  refresh  and  cause  them  to  assume  a 
lively  appearance.  f,f  8 

If  not  done  before,  take  out  the  earth  from  the  tops  of  the  pots  or 
tubs,  and  fill  them  up  with  fresh  compost ;  this  will  greatly  encourage 
their  flowering  and  promote  a  free  growth  ;  andjf  their  stems,  &c., 
had  not  been  pruned  and  dressed  in  the  former  months,  it  should  now 
be  done. 

It  would  be  very  advisable,  immediately  on  bringing  out,  to  place 
the  pots  of  small  growing  plants  on  a  stage,  and  the  larger  kinds  on 
boards  or  planks,  supported  on  bricks  or  pieces  of  timber,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  earth-worms  from  entering  at  their  bottoms,  which, 
if  once  admitted,  never  fail  to  destroy  the  texture  of  the  soil,  and 
render  it  like  a  honey-comb,  consequently,  it  cannot  long  retain 
moisture,  and  becomes  more  pervious  than  necessary  to  wind  and 
weather,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  plants,  and  trouble  of  the  gar- 
dener; for  the  pots  or  tubs  so  perforated  will  require  to  be  watered 
double  as  often  as  those  that  are  free  from  earth-worms. 

When  pots  are  plunged  in  the  earth  there  ought  to  be  a  piece  of 
shingle,  board  or  slate  placed  immediately  under  the  bottom  of  each 
to  prevent  the  roots  from  working  out  through  the  holes  into  the 
surrounding  earth ;  for  although  their  rooting  in  this  way  will  cause 
them  to  grow  more  vigorously,  it,  to  many,  when  taken  up,  proves 
very  injurious ;  therefore,  to  avoid  this  evil  as  much  as  possible  the 
pots  should  be  turned  around,  at  least  once  a  week  during  the  season, 
to  break  off  the  extending  fibres  that  may  have  pushed  through  those 
apertures  at  bottom. 

The  hard-wooded  kinds  are  generally  not  so  much  injured  by  this 
as  those  of  a  more  spongy  texture,  but  it  is  ultimately  of  more  injury 
than  service  to  every  plant,  and,  therefore,  ought  to  be  avoided  as 
much  as  possible. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

Fire-heat  should  now  be  totally  discontinued,  except  in  the  more 
northern  parts  of  the  eastern  States,  where  a  moderate  fire  at  night, 
during  the  first  week  of  the  month,  may,  in  some  seasons,  be  neces- 
sary ;  but  still  continue  for  the  pine-apples  a  constant  moderate  heat 
in  the  bark-bed  agreeably  to  the  intimations  given  last  month. 
27 


418  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [MAY 


PINE   APPLES. 

The  pine  apple  plants  will  now  require  frequent  and  moderate  re- 
freshments of  water,  which,  during  the  summer  season,  should  be 
given  late  in  the  afternoon ;  let  this  not  be  given  in  too  great  quan- 
tities at  any  one  time,  for  such  would  not  only  damp  the  heat  of  the 
bark  but  also  loosen  the  plants  in  the  pots. 

As  the  weather  increases  in  heat  give  air  in  proportion,  both  by 
the  front  and  roof-lights  j  but  especially  when  the  thermometer  rises 
above  seventy  degrees  of  Fahrenheit;  for  that  is  necessary  in  order 
to  have  large  and  good  fruit.  When  the  weather  gets  very  hot  the 
front  lights  must  be  kept  open  night  and  day,  but  the  roof-lights 
should  be  closed  every  night,  particularly  in  cloudy  weather,  to  pre- 
serve the  tan-pit  from  sudden  rains,  and  ought  to  be  opened  again 
early  in  the  morning,  especially  in  warm  weather. 

GENERAL  CARE  OP  ALL  EXOTICS  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Continue  also  to  give  plenty  of  air  to  the  plants  in  all  the  hot- 
house departments ;  supply  them  duly  with  proper  waterings ;  and 
if  any  want  shifting  into  larger  pots,  let  it  be  done  now  as  soon  as 
possible,  keeping  the  whole  clear  from  decayed  leaves,  &c.  If  casual 
irregularities  occur  in  the  shoots  or  branches,  prune  or  regulate  them 
as  may  be  required,  and  cut  away  any  decayed  parts  ;  observing  the 
same  general  directions  as  in  the  two  preceding  months. 

PROPAGATING  THE  PLANTS. 

You  may  still  continue  to  propagate  such  plants  as  you  desire  by 
cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  and  seeds  in  the  manner  directed  in  March 
and  April. 

Any  time  in  this  month  you  may  plant  cuttings  or  slips  of  cac- 
tuses, euphorbiums,  aloes,  agaves,  sedums,  mesembryanthemums,  sta- 
pelias,  and  other  succulent  plants,  laying  them  in  a  dry,  shady  place 
a  week  or  ten  days,  according  as  they  are  more  or  less  succulent, 
before  they  are  planted,  that  the  wounded  parts  may  heal  over, 
otherwise  they  are  subject  to  imbibe  too  much  moisture  and  rot. 
When  they  are  planted  they  should  be  placed  in  the  shade  or  plunged 
in  the  tan-pit  till  newly  rooted,  giving  them  a  little  water  as  neces- 
sity may  require.  The  hardy  sorts  may  be  planted  in  a  bed  of  light 
sandy  earth,  where,  if  they  are  screened  with  mats  for  some  time, 
they  will  freely  take  root. 

1  ? 

BRINGING  OUT  THE  HOT-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

About  the  twenty-fifth  of  this  month  you  may,  in  the  middle 
States,  begin  to  bring  out  the  hardier  sorts  of  hot-house  plants ;  if 
they  had  been  removed  into  the  green-house  eight  or  ten  days  pre- 
viously, it  would  be  of  service,  as  there  they  would  gradually  be  pre- 
pared, hardened,  and  become  in  a  good  condition  for  a  removal  into 


MAY]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  419 

the  open  air.  The  more  tender  kinds  should  not  be  brought  out  till 
the  first  week  in  June,  but  if  previously  removed  into  the  green- 
house for  a  week  or  ten  days  it  would  be  the  better  way;  always  ob- 
serving, wherever  they  are,  to  give  them  abundance  of  air  to  harden 
and  prepare  them  for  the  transition. 

In  the  eastern  States  the  above  work  is  to  be  deferred,  in  every 
instance,  from  one  to  two  weeks  later,  according  to  climate  and  the 
local  situation  of  the  place;  and  to  the  southward  of  the  middle 
States  it  may  be  done  somewhat  earlier. 

Should  you  have  no  pine-apples  in  your  hot-house,  and  there  are 
plants  permanently  growing  in  any  beds  or  borders  therein,  the  roof- 
lights  should  be  totally  taken  off  when  the  other  plants  are  out,  that 
these  may  receive  the  full  benefit  of  the  open  air  during  the  summer 
months,  &c. 

As  to  the  manner  of  placing  and  treating  the  pots  when  and  after 
being  brought  out,  I  would  advise  the  same  as  recommended  for  the 
green-house  plants,  which  see. 

You  must  be  very  careful  when  you  plunge  any  of  your  pots,  to 
make  it  a  particular  point  to  turn  them  around  in  their  seats  once  a 
week,  in  order  that  such  roots  as  run  into  the  ground  through  the 
holes  in  the  bottom  may  be  broken  off;  for  though  these  would,  for 
the  moment,  encourage  the  growth  of  the  plants,  when  you  come  to 
take  them  up  for  housing,  the  sudden  deprivation  of  their  usual  sup- 
ply of  nourishment  would  give  them  such  a  check  as  seriously  to 
injure  them :  and,  besides,  they  would  be  but  ill  rooted  in  the  pots, 
and  badly  prepared  to  extract  the  necessary  nourishment  during 
winter. 


TREES   GROWN   IN   POTS. 

The  injury  done  to  the  roots  of  trees  grown  in  pots,  is  a  subject  that 
the  gardener  should  well  consider.     By  cutting  round  the  roots  before 

Fig.  41. 


the  removal  of  a  tree  (Fig.  41),  we  may  have  those  rootlets  preserved 
from  injury  which  are  too  often  destroyed :  the  main  roots  now  radi- 


420 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


[MAY 


ate  from  the  common  centre  as  in  Fig.  42.     In  the  next  figure,  43, 
is  represented  a  tree  circumscribed  by  the  limits  of  pot  culture.     In* 


Fig.  42, 


Fig.  43. 


Fig.  44. 


the  former,  the  roots  are  extending  in  all  directions,  near  the  sur- 
face, in  search  of  food ;  in  the  latter  they  have  a  direct  tendency 
downwards,  where  they  neither  can  derive  food,  nor  from  their  posi- 
tion have  the  same  effect  as  the  former,  in  maintaining  the  perpen- 
dicular position  of  the  tree. 

The  next  figure,  44> 
shows  the  state  of  a  fruit 
or  forest  tree,  subjected  in 
early  life  to  pot  culture; 
where  the  roots  have  been 
most  confined  and  contort- 
ed, the  supply  of  sap 
thrown  into  the  tree  im- 
mediately above  them  has 
been  limited  and  irregular, 
as  seen  by  the  smaller  and 
irregular  portions  of  the 
annular  rings  in  the  trans- 
verse section  of  the  trunk; 
whereas  again,  where  the 
root  a  has  had  the  means 
of  penetrating  deeper  into 
the  soil,  and  consequently 
been  able  to  collect  a  great- 
er amount  of  sap  food,  the  annular  rings  above  are  larger,  and  more 
uniform  in  size.  Sickliness,  deformity,  and  premature  death  are  the 
result.  Great  care  should  be  employed  in  planting  such  a  specimen^ 
to  disentangle  and  spread  the  roots  carefully. 


JUNE] 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


421 


Where  the  corkscrew,  or 
spiral  direction  has  been 
once  taken  by  the  roots, 
they  are  very  apt  to  retain 
it  during  their  lives;  and 
if  when  they  have  become 
large  trees  they  are  exposed 
to  a  gale  of  wind,  they 
readily  blow  out  of  the 
ground.  To  prevent  this 
occurrence,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  place  trees  intended  for 
transplantation  in  old  bas- 
kets. Through  their  wick- 
er sides  the  roots  readily 
penetrate,  and  when  this 
has  happened,  the  half  de- 
cayed baskets  are  lifted  and 
"  potted"  in  other  baskets 
of  a  larger  size. 

Fig.  45  is  a  sketch  of  a 
root  of  Laricio,  after  hav- 
ing been  planted  ten  years, 
illustrating  the  effects  of 
corkscrewing  better  than 
any  description. 


Fig.  45. 


JUNE 

^^  .  <• 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN, 


EARLY  MELONS  AND  CUCUMBERS. 

About  the  first  of  this  month  all  your  melons  and  cucumbers  that 
have  been  hitherto  under  the  protection  of  glasses  or  paper-frames, 
may  be  fully  exposed  to  the  open  air,  having  been  previously  and 
gradually  inured  thereto.  A  piece  of  shingle  or  board  should  be 
laid  under  each  fruit  of  the  early  melons  to  preserve  them  from  the 
damp  of  the  earth,  which  would  injure  their  flavor.  Occasional  re- 
freshments of  water  will  be  necessary,  but  particularly  to  the  cucum- 
bers. 

Your  principal  or  general  crops  of  melons  and  cucumbers,  in  the 
open  ground,  should  now  be  kept  totally  free  from  weeds,  the  ground 
between  the  plants  must  be  frequently  hoed,  and  the  earth  drawn 
gently  to  the  stems  of  the  latest  sown  :  the  vines  should  be  laid  off 


422  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JUNE 

in  a  neat  and  regular  manner,  and  when  any  of  them  are  too  luxuri- 
ant, check  them  by  nipping  off  the  extremities  of  the  runners. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month  sow  general,  crops  of  cucumbers 
and  melons  for  pickling,  which  is  to  be  done  in  the  same  manner 
as  directed  on  page  382.  The  long  oval  musk-melon,  and  the  long 
prickly  cucumber,  are  in  general  estimation  for  this  purpose ;  but  the 
cluster  cucumber,  on  account  of  its  numerous  bearing  and  small 
fruit,  is  by  many  preferred. 

WATER-MELONS. 

If  not  done  before,  thin  your  water-melons,  leaving  but  three  of 
the  best  plants  in  each  hill,  and  draw  the  earth  with  a  hoe  up  around 
the  hills  till  the  stems  of  the  plants  are  covered  up  to  the  seed  leaves ; 
the  ground  between  them  must  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds, 
either  by  hoeing,  or  (if  cultivated  on  a  large  scale),  by  ploughing 
and  harrowing  in  the  early  part  of  the  season. 

SQUASHES   AND   PUMPKINS. 

Squashes  and  pumpkins  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way  as  di- 
rected for  water-melons ;  they  are  more  hardy,  and  do  not  require  so 
very  particular  attention ;  however,  the  ground  must  be  kept  loose 
and  free  from  weeds,  for  it  will  be  in  vain  otherwise  to  expect  pro- 
fitable crops. 

SWEET   POTATOES. 

Your  sweet  potatoes  must  have  earth  drawn  around  the  hills,  to 
enlarge  them  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  roots;  lay  off  the 
vines  regularly,  and  keep  the  ground  very  clean. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

The  early  cauliflowers  will  now  be  producing  their  heads  abund- 
antly ;  care  must  be  taken  to  break  down  the  leaves  to  preserve  the 
flowers  from  sun  and  rain,  as  directed  on  page  385. 

Those  plants  which  are  still  advancing  in  growth,  or  part  coming 
into  flower,  should,  in  very  dry  weather,  be  frequently  well  watered, 
which  will  greatly  enlarge  the  size  of  the  flowers.  For  this  purpose, 
draw  the  earth  around  each  plant,  basin-formed,  to  retain  the  water 
till  soaked  down  about  the  roots.  This  practice  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary in  dry  seasons. 

The  cauliflower  plants  from  late  sowing,  should  now  be  planted 
out  finally,  as  directed  on  page  329  ;  taking  care  either  to  do  it  in 
moist  or  cloudy  weather,  or  to  give  shade  and  water  after  planting  : 
a  large  cabbage  leaf  laid  over  each  plant  will  protect  it  considerably. 

CABBAGES  AND   SAVOY. 

Take  opportunity  of  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  and  plant  out  a  full 
crop  of  cabbages  and  savoys,  from  the  late  spring  sowings ;  also,  of 


JUNE]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  423 

the  red  pickling  cabbage,  allowing  each  kind  a  sufficient  distance  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  its  growth,  as  directed  in  the  former  months. 

But  in  gardens,  where  there  is  no  ground  vacant,  from  other  crops, 
or  where  there  is  a  necessity  of  making  the  most  of  every  piece  of 
kitchen  ground,  you  may  plant  the  savoy  and  cabbage  plants  between 
rows  of  forward  beans,  and  early  cauliflowers,  or  such  crops  as  stand 
distant,  and  are  soon  to  come  off  the  ground ;  observing  to  give  each 
plant  a  little  water  immediately  after  planting,  unless  the  ground  is 
sufficiently  saturated  with  moisture. 

You  may  now  sow  seeds  of  any  of  the  early  heading  kinds  of  cab- 
bage, such  as  the  early  York,  Sugarloaf,  or  Battersea,  to  come  in  both  , 
for  small  hearts  and  hard  cabbages  in  autumn. 

BORECOLE,  BRUSSELS    SPROUTS,  JERUSALEM   KALE,  AND    TURNIP 
CABBAGE. 

The  early  plants  of  either  of  the  above  kinds  may  now  be  planted 
out,  as  directed  in  May ;  the  late  sown  crops  should  be  thinned,  and 
those  pulled  out  planted  in  nursery-beds,  four  inches  asunder,  giving 
them  a  good  watering  when  planted,  and  afterwards  occasionally,  till 
well  established  :  here  they  are  to  remain  till  of  sufficient  strength  for 
planting  out  finally. 

•;•;  -T.  't-j     -  IH'.i*'  -:>'l    <'    'i;r  ';*'''••  '   "*  ,"'•'    *    ;-;   "-'''I 

BROCCOLI. 

Plant  out  finally  such  broccoli  plants  as  are  of  sufficient  size,  choose 
for  this  purpose  a  bed  of  rich  mellow  earth,  and  let  them  be  planted 
at  the  distances  mentioned  on  page  387. 

Thin  the  late  sown  crops,  and  plant  those  pulled  out  into  nursery 
rows,  to  obtain  strength,  giving  them  a  good  watering  immediately 
after  planting. 

Early  in  the  month  sow  some  more  seed  for  a  succession  crop,  to 
produce  their  heads  in  February,  &c.  For  particulars  see  page  387. 

CELERY. 

The  celery  plants  that  have  arrived  to  a  sufficient  size,  should  now 
be  finally  planted  out  into  trenches. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in  an  open  expo- 
sure; mark  out  the  trenches  by  line,  ten  or  twelve  inches  wide,  and 
allow  the  space  of  three  feet  between  trench  and  trench,  which  will 
be  sufficient  for  the  early  plantations. 

Dig  each  trench  a  moderate  spade  deep,  laying  the  dug  out  earth 
equally  on  each  side,  between  the  trenches;  lay  three  inches  deep 
of  very  rotten  dung  in  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare  the 
sides  and  dig  the  dung  and  parings  with  an  inch  or  two  of  the  loose 
mould  at  bottom,  incorporating  all  well  together,  and  put  in  the 
plants. 

Previous  to  planting,  trim  the  tops  of  the  plants,  by  cutting  off  the 
long  straggling  leaves,  and  also  the  ends  of  their  roots,  leaving  the 
former  about  six  inches  long,  and  the  latter  two.  When,  however, 


424  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JUNE 

the  plants  have  been  duly  thinned  and  kept  free  from  weeds  they 
will  be  short  and  stubby,  and  will  lift  with  small  balls  of  earth  to 
each.  In  this  case  they  may  be  planted  with  a  trowel  and  need  no 
trimming. 

Let  them  be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single  rows,  along  the  mid- 
dle of  each  trench,  allowing  the  distance  of  four  or  five  inches  be- 
tween plant  and  plant ;  as  soon  as  planted,  give  them  a  plentiful 
watering,  and  let  them  be  shaded  until  they  strike  root,  and  begin  to 
grow. 

Small  sticks  may  be  placed  across  the  trenches,  and  on  those  boards 
or  pine  planks  laid  lengthwise;  or,  pine  or  cedar  boughs  may  be  laid 
"over  the  plants,  which  are  to  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
grow. 

The  plants  when  grown  to  the  height  of  eight  or  ten  inches 
should  have  their  first  landing ;  this  must  be  done  in  a  dry  day;  the 
earth  should  be  broken  small  and  laid  in  gently  to  both  sides  of  the 
plants,  always  taking  care  to  leave  the  hearts  and  tops  free;  repeating 
it  every  ten  or  twelve  days  till  they  are  blanched  of  a  sufficient  length 
for  use. 

PEAS. 

Though  peas  sown  at  this  time  do  not  always  succeed  in  bearing 
abundantly,  yet  a  few,  to  keep  up  a  regular  succession,  may  be  sown 
at  two  or  three  different  times  in  the  month,  and  if  the  season  should 
prove  somewhat  moist,  there  will  be  a  chance  of  obtaining  a  hand- 
some crop.  The  best  kinds  for  this  season  are  early  Frame,  early 
Warwick,  or  blue  Prussian.  The  marrow  and  other  such  are  more 
subject  to  mildew,  while  the  above  sorts  are  comparatively  free. 

If  the  weather  and  ground  be  very  dry,  it  will  be  of  some  use  to 
soak  them  a  few  hours  in  soft  river  or  pond  water  previous  to  sowing, 
otherwise  water  the  drills  and  then  sow  them. 

Let  those  crops,  if  convenient,  be  sown  in  moist  ground,  but  not 
in  a  shady  place ;  in  such  a  situation,  the  plants  would  draw  up  and 
be  good  for  nothing;  observe  to  allow  plenty  of  room  between  the 
rows,  for  at  this  season  much  depends  on  their  having  air  and  liberty 
to  grow. 

ASPARAGUS. 

The  asparagus  now  running  up  to  seed,  should  be  cleared  from 
weeds,  and  also  your  new  plantations;  likewise,  the  seedlings  intended 
for  next  year's  planting;  for  if  suffered  to  be  overrun  with  weeds,  it 
.  would  ruin  them. 

TRANSPLANTING  LEEKS. 

Select  a  piece  of  good  ground  for  this  purpose,  manure  and  dig  it 
well,  then  draw  from  the  seed  beds  a  sufficiency  of  the  stoutest  plants, 
trim  the  long  fibres  of  the  roots,  and  cut  off  the  tops  of  the  leaves ; 
this  done,  plant  them  in  rows  a  foot  asunder,  and  six  inches  plant 
from  plant  in  the  rows,  inserting  their  shanks  into  the  earth  up  to 


JUNE]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  425 

their  leaves;  by  this  means  they  will  grow  very  large,  and  the  part 
inserted  in  the  earth  become  white  and  tender. 


LETTUCES. 

Transplant  and  sow  lettuces  as  directed  last  month,  on  page  388. 
Let  this  be  done  in  moist  weather,  particularly  the  transplanting ; 
for  if  in  a  great  drought,  the  plants  will  not  succeed  well :  the  place 
must  be  open  and  fully  exposed,  otherwise  they  will  start  to  seed 
before  they  arrive  at  any  tolerable  perfection.  If  you  are  under  the 
necessity  of  planting  them  in  dry  weather,  let  it  be  done  late  in  the 
afternoon,  and  immediately  give  them  a  plentiful  watering. 


SMALL  SALADING. 

Continue  to  sow  cresses  and  other  small  salading  once  a  week  on 
a  shady  border.  They  should  be  often  refreshed  with  water,  in  dry 
weather,  and  this  ought  to  be  repeated  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  appear. 

KIDNEY  BEANS. 

Sow  successive  crops  of  kidney  beans  in  the  beginning,  middle, 
and  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  as  directed  on  page  390  ; 
either  of  the  dwarf  or  running  kinds  may  now  be  planted  with  good 
success. 

Should  the  ground  happen  to  be  very  dry  at  the  time  of  planting, 
the  drills  ought  to  be  well  watered  previous  to  the  beans  being 
dropped  therein ;  this  should  not  be  omitted  in  dry  weather,  as  it 
will  greatly  promote  the  sprouting  of  the  seeds,  and  the  crops  will 
rise  sooner  and  be  more  regular. 

Land  up  the  rows  of  kidney  beans  planted  last  month,  which  will 
greatly  strengthen  and  bring  forward  the  plants,  and  place  sticks  or 
poles  to  the  running  kinds,  which  are  now  beginning  to  advance  in 
growth.* 

CAROLINA   AND   LIMA   BEANS. 

Hoe  and  clean  the  ground  between  your  crops  of  Carolina  and 
Lima  beans;  see  that  all  are  properly  supported  with  sticks  or 
poles,  and  draw  up  some  earth  around  the  stems  of  the  plants.  A 
few  of  the  early  Carolina  kind  may  be  planted  about  the  first  of 
this  month,  for  a  late  crop;  for  the  method  of  planting,  &c.,  see 
page  390. 

RADISHES. 

Although  radishes  do  not  generally  succeed  well  at  this  season, 
yet  a  few  of  the  salmon-colored  may  be  sown  at  different  times  in 
the  month :  should  the  season  prove  moist,  they  may  do  tolerably 
well.  Some  of  the  short  top  and  white  turnip-rooted  kinds  may  also 


426  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JUNE 

now  be  sown,  and  toward  the  middle  or  end  of  the  month  you  may 
sow  a  good  crop  of  the  white  and  black  winter  or  Spanish  radish,  to 
draw  early  in  autumn. 


CARROTS,  PARSNEPS,  AND  ONIONS. 

The  crops  of  carrots,  parsneps,  and  onions,  must  now  be  kept 
clean  and  free  from  weeds ;  and  if  you  observe  that  your  onions  in- 
cline more  to  tops  and  roots,  you  may  with  a  long  stick  gently  lay 
over  their  tops  on  one  side,  so  as  to  bend  them,  and  in  a  few  days 
after,  lay  them  back  to  the  opposite  side,  which  will  check  the  ascent 
of  the  juices  and  cause  the  bulbs  to  swell. 


BEETS. 

The  crops  of  beet  should  be  kept  very  clean  and  the  plants  thin- 
ned to  proper  distances,  that  they  may  have  room  to  swell  and  grow 
large. 

The  seeds  of  these  plants  are  generally  sown  in  drills,  or  rows, 
a  foot  or  more  asunder ;  and  where  that  method  was  practised,  you 
can  now  more  readily  clear  out  the  weeds  and  thin  the  plants ;  ob- 
serving to  thin  them  to  ten  inches  distance  in  the  rows ;  also,  where 
the  seed  was  sown  broadcast,  so  as  the  plants  stand  promiscuously, 
they  must  likewise  be  cut  out  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance,  plant 
from  plant,  and  the  roots  will  grow  to  a  large  size  accordingly. 

You  may  now  sow  succession  crops  of  red,  green,  and  white  beet ; 
and  also  of  the  Mangel  wurtzel,  or  root  of  scarcity ;  they  will  all 
succeed  well  from  this  sowing,  but  the  green  and  white  kinds  are 
generally  cultivated  for  their  leaves  (see  page  203),  while  the  last  is 
only  useful  for  cattle. 

TURNIPS. 

The  advancing  crops  of  turnips  should  be  hoed  and  thinned  to 
proper  distances,  and  this  ought  always  to  be  done  at  an  early  period 
of  their  growth.  As  they  do  not  grow  large  at  this  season,  six  or 
seven  inches  apart  will  be  sufficient. 


SCORZONERA,  SKIRRETS,  SALSAFY,  AND  HAMBURG  PARSLEY. 

Thin  and  clear  from  weeds  the  crops  of  scorzonera,  salsafy,  skirret, 
and  large  rooted  parsley,  which  perform  either  by  hand  or  small- 
hoeing,  thinning  out  the  plants  to  six  inches  distance,  and  cutting  up 
all  the  weeds. 

ENDIVE. 

Transplant  endive  that  is  now  of  a  sufficient  size ;  for  the  method, 
see  page  396. 

Sow  another  crop  of  curled  endive,  to  keep  up  a  regular  succession 
when  wanted ;  and  also  some  of  the  broad  Batavian  kind  j  this  grows 


JUNE]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  427 

very  large,  whitens  well  if  tied  up,  and  is  very  palatable.     Sow  more 
towards  the  end  of  the  month. 


OKRA,  TOMATOES,  AND  EGG-PLANTS. 

Earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  okra;  where  too  thick,  thin 
them  to  the  distances  mentioned  on  page  341,  and  keep  the  ground 
free  from  weeds. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  plant  out  a  general  crop  of  toma- 
toes and  egg-plant,  as  directed  on  pages  342,  395  and  396. 


.  CARDOONS. 

Plant  out  cardoons  in  a  bed  of  good  earth,  at  the  distance  of  four 
feet  from  one  another,  every  way :  they  may  either  be  planted  on 
the  level,  or  in  holes  made  basin-form,  at  the  above  distances,  pre- 
viously laying  some  rotten  manure  in  each  hole,  and  mixing  the 
earth  therewith ;  one  good  plant  is  sufficient  in  a  place,  as  they  rise 
to  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet  and  require  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  earth  to  blanch  them.  Observe,  before  planting,  to  dress 
the  tops  and  roots  as  directed  for  celery ;  and  as  they  advance  in 
growth,  they  are  to  be  earthed  up  for  blanching,  keeping  the  leaves 
close  together. 

These  plants  are  a  species  of  Cynara,  or  artichoke ;  the  stalks  of 
the  leaves  are  used,  when  well  blanched,  in  salads,  soups,  and  for 
stewing,  &c. 

RED  PEPPERS,  OR  CAPSICUMS. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  you  should  plant  out  from  the 
seed-beds  full  and  general  crops  of  the  various  kinds  of  capsicums, 
as  directed  on  page  395. 

PLANT  POT  AND  OTHER  HERBS,  &C. 

Plant  out  from  the  seed-beds  the  young  plants  of  thyme,  hyssop, 
marjoram,  winter  savory,  &c.  &c. ;  let  this  be  done,  if  possible,  in 
moist  or  cloudy  weather.  Prepare  for  that  purpose  some  beds,  three 
and  a  half  feet  wide,  rake  the  surface  smooth,  and  put  in  the  plants 
in  straight  rows,  setting  them  six  or  eight  inches  distant  every  way, 
and  water  them  immediately.  Many  of  these  kinds  may  be  planted 
occasionally  as  edgings,  along  the  sides  of  any  particular  beds  or 
borders. 

All  the  large  growing  kinds  of  medicinal  herbs,  such  as  angelica, 
lovage,  &c.,  ought  to  be  planted  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  asunder, 
in  proportion  to  their  usual  growth.  You  may  yet  make  slips  or 
cuttings  of  lavender,  rosemary,  thyme,  hyssop,  &c.,  and  plant  them 
in  shady  borders. 


428  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JUNE 


GATHERING  HERBS. 

All  kinds  of  herbs,  such  as  mint,  balm,  lavender,  clary,  sage, 
rosemary,  &c.,  that  are  gathered  for  drying,  or  for  distillation  and 
other  purposes,  should  be  cut  off  when  just  beginning  to  come  into 
flower,  and  laid  in  the  shade  to  dry  gradually,  which  will  render 
them  much  better  for  any  purpose  than  if  they  were  dried  in  the 
sun. 


THE  FRUIT   GARDEN. 


WALL   AND   ESPALIER   FRUIT-TREES. 

Where  the  apricot,  peach,  nectarine,  and  other  wall  or  espalier 
trees  were  neglected  last  month,  or  not  carefully  attended  to,  you 
may  in  the  early  part  of  this  thin  the  fruit  as  then  directed;  rub  off 
all  fore-right  or  ill-placed  shoots,  and  train  others  regularly  at  proper 
distances :  be  not  too  officious  with  the  knife  at  this  season,  nor  pull 
off  any  of  the  leaves  from  the  branches,  unless  they  are  distempered; 
for  the  pulling  off  the  leaves  will  expose  the  fruit  too  much  to  the 
sun,  and  thereby  greatly  check  their  growth ;  besides  it  would  greatly 
injure  the  buds  which  are  formed  at  the  footstalks  of  those  leaves. 
For  further  particulars  respecting  fruit-trees,  see  the  Fruit  Garden 
for  May,  which  are  generally  applicable  in  this  month. 


STRAWBERRIES. 

The  strawberry  plants  in  general  will,  early  in  the  month,  be  coming 
into  full  bearing,  and  if  watered  occasionally  between  the  rows  as 
directed  on  page  401,  it  will  swell  the  fruit  to  a  much  larger  size,  and 
greatly  encourage  the  bloom  and  setting  of  an  abundant  crop. 

Should  the  weather  prove  moist  or  cloudy,  this  will  be  a  very 
proper  season,  to  make  new  plantations  of  the  various  kinds  of  straw- 
berries, observing  the  method  directed  on  page  232.  But  it  would 
be  more  advisable  at  this  time  to  plant  some  of  the  best  runner- 
plants  of  this  year's  production  into  nursery  beds  in  shady  borders, 
six  inches  asunder,  there  to  remain  and  get  strength  till  September 
or  October,  and  then  to  plant  them  with  balls  of  earth  where  they 
are  to  stand  for  fruiting.  Frequent  waterings  will  now  be  very  neces- 
sary for  the  young  plantations. 

Be  particular  in  selecting  the  best  kinds,  and  of  the  stoutest  and 
most  vigorous  growth ;  dress  or  trim  their  roots,  and  cut  off  all  the 
strings  or  runners  previous  to  planting. 

Though  it  is  not  common  to  propagate  strawberries  at  this  season, 
yet  if  done,  and  duly  watered  till  they  are  well  rooted,  the  plants 
will  be  stronger,  and  bear  much  more  abundantly  next  season,  than 
if  deferred  till  September  or  October ;  but  if  the  weather  should  not 


JUNE]  THE  ORCHARD.  429 

happen  to  be  peculiarly  favorable,  I  would  advise  them  to  be  planted 
for  the  present  in  nursery  beds,  in  a  shady  border,  as  before  observed, 
taking  good  care  to  water  them  frequently  till  well  rooted. 

You  may,  however,  any  time  this  month,  plant  out  some  of  the 
young  runner-plants  of  the  Alpine  or  prolific  strawberry,  and  if 
shaded  and  watered  till  they  have  taken  fresh  root,  they  will  soon 
bear  fruit  on  the  present  plants,  and  in  August  and  September,  on 
the  runners  produced  in  the  intermediate  time.  The  seeds  of  these 
latter  kinds,  if  sown  in  March,  are  particularly  productive;  these  will 
commence  bearing  in  the  September  following,  and  continue  on  until 
destroyed  by  frost,  or  if  placed  in  the  green-house,  all  the  winter. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

At  this  time  there  is  very  little  to  be  done  in  the  orchard,  but  a 
repetition  of  what  was  recommended  on  page  402,  to  which  I  refer 
you. 

It  would  be  very  proper,  when  you  observe  many  of  your  young 
fruit  punctured  by  insects,  and  consequently  in  a  declining  state, 
gently  to  shake  the  trees,  and  pick  and  carry  away  to  the  pigs  such 
as  fall  to  the  ground,  for  the  reasons  assigned  on  page  151,  &c., 
which  see. 

PRUNING. 

Dr.  Lindley,  in  his  new  edition  of  the  Theory  of  Horticulture ,  has 
given  some  directions  regarding  pruning  and  trimming,  which  it  is 
well  to  remember,  and  it  is  therefore  here  inserted.  His  views  on 
this  subject  have  become  authority  with  many.  They  will  not  be 
unprofitable  studies  at  all  times. 

THE  PEAR-TREE. 

This  tree  bears  its  fruit  on  wood  more  than  one  year  old,  but 
chiefly  on  spurs,  and  very  rarely  on  two-year  branches.  The  object 
of  the  pruner  is  to  secure  spurs  by  stopping  branches  and  arresting 
luxuriance,  at  the  same  time  maintaining  the  plant  in  perfect  health. 

There  is  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  the  requisite  number  of  branches, 
at  proper  distances,  by  observing  the  following  directions :  Plant  a 
maiden  tree  in  autumn ;  allow  it  to  establish  itself  for  one  year,  and 
then  head  it  back  to  a  good  eye,  a  few  buds  from  its  base.  Let  one 
shoot  grow  as  strong  and  upright  as  possible  during  the  summer,  and 
head  it  back  to  within  thirteen  inches  of  the  ground  in  autumn,  cut- 
ting very  close  to  a  bud,  in  order  that  the  shoot  springing  from  it 
may  form  little  or  no  bending;  train  it  upright,  whilst  three  or  four 
shoots,  from  buds  immediately  below  it,  should  be  more  or  less  in- 
clined to  horizontal  direction,  according  to  their  strength;  the  strongest 


430  THE  ORCHARD.  [JUNE 

should  be  most  depressed.  These  three  or  four  constitute  the  com- 
mencement of  the  first  or  lower  tier.  For  the  next  tier,  head  back 
the  upright  leader  to  within  eighteen  inches  of  its  base,  if  the  soil  is 
rich ;  if  not,  to  fifteen  inches ;  and  from  the  shoots  produced  in  the 
following  season  from  buds,  just  under  the  cut,  train  a  shoot  for  a 
leader,  and  three  or  four  somewhat  horizontally,  as  before,  for  a 
second  tier.  Precisely  in  this  manner  tier  after  tier  must  be  started, 
till  the  tree  attain  its  assigned  height.  All  this  can  be  effected  in 
accordance  with  the  natural  disposition  of  the  tree  to  form  an  upright 
stem,  and  with  the  tendency  of  the  sap  to  develop  the  uppermost  buds 
of  a  shortened  shoot.  But  it  is  not  to  be  done  without  serious  diffi- 
culties. 

The  shoots  started  for  horizontal  branches  will  rarely  take  that 
direction;  on  the  contrary,  they  will  generally  diverge  at  an  angle 
of  45°.  This  may,  and  should  be  overcome  by  tying  down.  The 
disparity  of  vigor  in  the  upper,  as  compared  with  the  lower  branches, 
is  a  more  serious  affair.  If  allowed,  the  former  will  soon  overgrow 
the  latter,  and  the  pyramid  will  ultimately  become  inverted.  It  is, 
therefore,  evident  that,  in  order  to  have  well-conditioned  pyramid 
pear-trees,  means  must  be  adopted  to  maintain  vigor  in  the  lower  tiers 
of  branches,  and  repress  over-luxuriance  in  the  upper. 

With  the  view  of  invigorating  the  lower,  permit  the  shoots  to  grow 
without  restraint  till  September,  and  then  bend  them  towards  a  hori- 
zontal position.  They  will  thus  be  much  stronger  than  if  they  had 
been  made  to  follow  a  horizontal  direction  from  the  beginning.  Shorten 
them  a  little  at  the  winter  pruning,  in  order  to  obtain  a  stronger 
leading  shoot  than  would  otherwise  be  produced.  Cut  to  a  side  bud ; 
one  on  the  upper  side  would  produce  a  stronger  shoot,  but  the  latter 
could  not  be  brought  down  without  occasioning  an  unsightly  bend. 
Besides  a  leader,  some  other  shoots  will  probably  be  produced ;  let 
them  grow,  for  their  foliage  will  assist  in  forming  channels  or  layers 
of  wood  containing  channels,  for  the  transmission  of  sap  along  these 
branches  in  the  following  season.  The  growing  shoot  should  have 
its  point  elevated  till  September,  as  before.  No  reduction  of  foliage 
connected  with  the  lower  branches  should  be  made  by  summer  prun- 
ing. Their  leading  shoots  must  not  be  overshaded. 

In  order  to  prevent  excessive  luxuriance  in  the  upper  branches, 
recourse  must  be  had  to  summer  pruning  as  the  most  efficient  means. 
The  shoots  should  be  trained  horizontally  from  their  origin,  their 
points  depressed  instead  of  elevated.  In  short,  they  must  be  sub- 
jected to  a  treatment  generally  the  reverse  of  that  recommended  for 
the  lower  branches. 

Against  walls,  the  horizontal  mode  of  training  answers  well  for  the 
pear.  When  the  young  tree  is  planted,  head  down  the  shoot  to  a 
foot,  or  four  courses  of  bricks,  above  the  level  of  the  ground.  Train 
a  shoot  upright,  and  one  right,  another  left,  at  an  angle  of  45°  ;  if 
these  prove  unequal  in  point  of  vigor,  depress  the  strong  and  elevate 
the  weak.  Lower  them  both  about  the  middle  of  September  to  the 
horizontal  line  represented  by  the  joint  between  the  fourth  and  fifth 
course  of  bricks.  Their  origin  on  the  stem  was  somewhat  below  this 
line,  and  therefore  they  must  ascend  a  little  to  reach  it.  This,  as 


JUNE] 


THE  ORCHARD. 


431 


Fig.  46. 


regards  the  lower  branches,  is  an  advantage,  for  the  sap  flows  more 
freely  into  limbs  thus  diverging,  than  it  does  when  constrained  to 
proceed  from  the  stem  directly  at  right  angles.  The  lower  branches 
being  apt  to  become  the  weakest,  may  be  afforded  this  advantage, 
whilst  towards  the  top  of  the  wall  the  branches  may  be  made  to  pro- 
ceed horizontally  immediately  from  the  stem. 

The  tree  haying  now  a  central  upright  shoot,  and  two  horizontal 
side  shoots,  shorten  the  latter  at  the  winter  pruning  according  to  their 
strength ;  if  weak,  nearly  to  their  bases ;  the  upright  one  to  the  fourth 
course  of  bricks  above  that  to  which  the  first  shoot  was  cut.  Train 
the  shoot  from  the  uppermost  bud  in  a  perpendicular  direction,  and 
one  on  each  side  as  before.  Proceed  thus  to  obtain  an  upright  and 
two  horizontal  branches 
every  year  till  the  tree 
reach  the  top  of  the 
wall.  When  the  hori- 
zontal branches  are 
sufficiently  strong,  they 
may  be  trained  along 
the  courses  of  bricks 
without  shortening. 

If  properly  managed 
in  summer,  fruit-spurs 
will  begin  to  form  along 
these  branches.  The 
accompanying  cut  (Fig. 
46)  represents  a  spur 
in  which  a  is  progress- 
ing to  form  a  blossom- 
bud,  whilst  b  b  are 
already  blossom-buds, 
known  by  their  plump- 
ness; and  from  this 
period  of  the  season 
such  buds  exhibit  signs 
of  active  vegetation,  but 
in  a  the  surrounding 
scales  remain  undis- 
turbed till  late  in  spring. 
The  scar  at  c  is  where 
a  portion  of  spur  that 
has  borne  fruit  has  been 
cut  back,  and  at  the 
winter  pruning,  after  b 
b  have  produced  fruit, 
they  must  likewise  be  cut  back  to  others  likely  to  form  at  their  bases, 
as  they  did  at  the  base  of  c. 

The  pruning  of  the  pear-tree  trained  against  an  espalier  differs  in 
nothing  from  that  which  it  requires  when  trained  against  a  wall, 
except  that  the  spurs  of  espalier  trees  need  not  be  so  much  short- 
ened. 


Spur  of  the  pear -tree. 


432 


THE  ORCHARD. 


[JUNE 


Fig-  47.  THE  FIG-TREE. — The  accompanying  figure  re- 

presents a  shoot  of  the  last  summer's  growth;  on 
which  a,  a,  a,  a,  a,  are  fruit-buds ;  6,  b,  wood- 
buds;  c,  c,  c,  c,  c,c,  scars  where  the  leaf-stalks  had 
detached  themselves  at  the  fall  of  the  leaf.  It 
thus  appears  that  the  fruit-buds  of  the  fig-tree 
are  formed  on  the  young  shoots,  in  the  axils  of 
the  leaves.  Sometimes  it  happens  that  leaves 
are  not  accompanied  with  fruit-buds ;  but  they 
are  frequently  formed  in  the  axil  of  every  leaf, 
from  the  base  of  the  shoot  to  its  apex.  In  a 
congenial  climate,  fruit-buds  thus  progressively 
formed,  result  in  a  succession  of  ripe  fruit.  But 
in  our  climate,  although  young  figs  are  produced 
in  great  abundance,  they  rarely  acquire  maturity 
in  the  same  season  in  which  they  originate,  un- 
less assisted  by  artificial  heat.  Shoots  may  be 
seen  plentifully  furnished  with  green  figs,  some 
of  the  latter  attaining  a  considerable  size  before 
autumn,  but  seldom  ripening  even  at  that  period ; 
and  then  the  temperature  begins  to  decline  below 
that  which  is  necessary  for  carrying  on  the  active 
vegetation  of  the  plant ;  the  leaves  drop ;  the 
fruits  still  hold  on ;  but  they  wither  even  if  pro- 
tected from  frost.  Such  being  the  case,  those 
fruit  buds  which  may  be  expected  to  yield  ma- 
ture fruit  in  the  open  air,  are  not  to  be  looked 
for  on  the  lower  part  of  the  shoots  where  the 
fruit-buds  have  become  developed.  It  is  towards 
the  extremity  of  the  shoots,  where  fruit-buds  are 
yet  in  embryo,  compact  and  sessile,  like  those 
represented  by  a,  a,  a,  a,  a,  that  we  have  to  look 
for  a  crop.  Such  buds  retain  their  vitality  till 
the  following  spring,  if  they  are  not  killed  by 
frost,  or  cut  off  by  a  badly  directed  pruning- 
knife.  The  mode  of  bearing  will  thus  be  readily 
understood,  and  the  necessity  of  protecting  the 
extremities  of  the  shoots  of  figs  from  frost. 

"  Whenever,"  says  Mr.  Knight,  "  a  branch  of 
this  tree  appears  to  be  extending  with  too  much 
luxuriance,  its  point,  at  the  tenth  or  twelfth  leaf, 
is  pressed  between  the  finger  and  thumb,  with- 
out letting  the  nails  come  in  contact  with  the 
bark,  till  the  soft  succulent  substance  is  felt  to 
yield  to  the  pressure.  Such  branch,  in  conse- 
quence, ceases  subsequently  to  elongate;  and 
the  sap  is  repulsed,  to  be  expended  where  it  is 
more  wanted.  A  fruit  ripens  at  the  base  of  each 
leaf,  and  during  the  period  in  which  the  fruit  is 
ripening,  one  or  more  of  the  lateral  buds  shoots, 
Shoot  of  a  fig-tree.  an(j  js  subsequently  subjected  to  the  same  treat- 


JUNE] 


THE  ORCHARD. 


433 


Fig.  48. 


ment,  with  the  same  result.  When  I  have  suffered  such  shoots  to 
extend  freely  to  their  natural  length,  I  have  found  that  a  small  part 
of  them  only  became  productive,  either  in  the  same  or  the  ensuing 
season,  though  I  have  seen 
that  their  buds  obviously 
contained  blossoms.  I 
made  several  experiments 
to  obtain  fruit  in  the  fol- 
lowing spring  from  other 
parts  of  such  branches, 
which  were  not  success- 
ful :  but  I  ultimately 
found  that  bending  these 
branches,  as  far  as  could 
be  done  without  danger  of 
breaking  them,  rendered 
them  extremely  fruitful; 
and,  in  the  present  spring, 
thirteen  figs  ripened  per- 
fectly upon  a  branch  of 
this  kind  within  the  space 
of  ten  inches.  In  train- 
ing, the  ends  of  all  the 
shoots  have  been  made, 
as  far  as  practicable,  to 
point  downwards."-.ZZbr£. 
Tram.j  iv.  201. 

THE  FILBERT-TREE. — 
The  filbert-tree  is  one  of 
those  which  does  not  con- 
tain all  the  parts  necessary 
for  the  production  of  fruit 
in  the  same  bud.  Some 
buds  develop  only  the 
male  parts,  and  others 
only  the  female ;  the  for- 
mer are  comprised  in 
those  pendent  yellow  cat- 
kins, easily  recognized  in 
the  end  of  winter  and 
early  spring.  The  female 
portions  are  less  conspicu- 
ous ;  all  that  appears  of 
them  are  some  slender, 
deep  crimson  stigmas,  pro- 
truding beyond  the  apex 
of  the  buds,  as  repre- 
sented at  6,  b.  On  these, 

fertilizing  particles  from  the  catkins  either  fall  naturally,  or  are  other- 
wise brought  in  contact  with  them  whilst  being  blown  about  by  the 
winds ;  and  fruitfulness  is  the  result.     If,  on  the  contrary,  there  are 
28 


Branch  of  the  Filbert,     a,  a,  a,  wood 
buds  ;  6,  6,  blossom  buds. 


434  THE  ORCHARD.  [JUNE 

no  catkins,  or  if  they  are  prematurely  cut  away  in  pruning,  there 
can  be  no  fruit.  Pruning  should  not  be  commenced  till  after  the 
appearance  of  the  crimson  stigmas  at  the  apex  of  such  buds  as  6,  6, 
and  after  the  full  expansion  of  the  catkins.  When  the  latter  have 
fulfilled  their  purpose,  they  fall  off.  After  fertilization,  the  buds  6, 
5,  lengthen  into  a  twig  much  the  same  as  other  buds;  but  towards 
midsummer  the  formation  of  the  cluster  can  be  seen.  The  cluster 
is  always  terminal. 

The  county  of  Kent  has  been  long  celebrated  for  the  production 
of  large  crops  of  filberts.  The  method  pursued  by  the  Maidstone 
cultivators  is  minutely  detailed  by  the  Rev.  William  Williamson  in 
the  fourth  volume  of  the  first  series  of  the  Transactions  of  the  Horti- 
cultural Society. 

"  Plant  the  bushes  unpruned,  and  after  being  suffered  to  grow  with- 
out restraint  for  three  or  four  years,  cut  them  down  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  ground.  From  the  remaining  part,  if  the  trees  are 
well  rooted  in  the  soil,  five  or  six  strong  shoots  will  be  produced.  In 
the  second  year  after  cutting  down,  these  shoots  are  shortened ;  gene- 
rally one-third  is  taken  off.  If  very  weak,  I  would  advise  that  the 
trees  be  quite  cut  down  a  second  time,  as  in  the  previous  spring;  but 
it  would  be  much  better  not  to  cut  them  down  till  the  trees  give 
evident  tokens  of  their  being  able  to  produce  shoots  of  sufficient 
strength.  When  they  are  thus  shortened,  that  they  may  appear 
regular,  let  a  small  hoop  be  placed  within  the  branches,  to  which 
the  shoots  are  to  be  fastened  at  equal  distances.  By  this  practice 
two  considerable  advantages  will  be  gained — the  trees  will  grow  more 
regular,  and  the  middle  will  be  kept  hollow,  so  as  to  admit  the  influ- 
ence of  the  sun  and  air.  In  the  thir3  year  a  shoot  will  spring  from 
each  bud;  these  must  be  suffered  to  grow  till  the  following  autumn, 
or  fourth  year,  when  they  are  to  be  cut  off  nearly  close  to  the  original 
stem,  and  the  leading  shoot  of  the  last  year  shortened  two-thirds.  In 
the  fifth  year  several  small  shoots  will  arise  from  the  bases  of  the 
side  branches  which  were  cut  off  the  preceding  year ;  these  are  pro- 
duced from  small  buds,  and  would  not  have  been  emitted  had  not  the 
branch  on  which  they  are  situated  been  shortened,  the  whole  nourish- 
ment being  carried  to  the  upper  part  of  the  branch.  It  is  from  these 
shoots  that  fruit  is  to  be  expected.  These  productive  shoots  will  in 
a  few  years  become  very  numerous,  and  many  of  them  must  be  taken 
off,  particularly  the  strongest,  in  order  to  encourage  the  production 
of  the  smaller  ones;  for  those  of  the  former  year  become  so  exhausted 
that  they  generally  decay;  but  whether  decayed  or  not  they  are 
always  cut  out  by  the  pruner,  and  a  fresh  supply  must  therefore  be 
provided  to  produce  the  fruit  in  the  succeeding  year.  The  leading 
shoot  is  every  year  to  be  shortened  two-thirds,  or  more  should  the 
tree  be  weak,  and  the  whole  height  of  the  branches  must  not  exceed 
six  feet.  The  method  of  pruning  above  detailed  might,  in  a  few 
words,  be  called  a  method  of  spurring,  by  which  bearing  shoots  are 
produced,  which  otherwise  would  have  had  no  existence.  Old  trees 
are  easily  induced  to  bear  in  this  manner,  by  selecting  a  sufficient 
number  of  the  main  branches,  and  then  cutting  the  side  shoots  off 
nearly  close,  excepting  any  should  be  so  situated  as  not  to  interfere 


JUNE]  THE  ORCHARD.  435 

with  the  others,  and  there  should  be  no  main  branch  directed  to  that 
particular  part.  It  will,  however,  be  two  or  three  years  before  the 
full  effect  will  be  produced." 

The  management  of  the  laterals  must  be  varied  according  to  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  and  the  greater  or  less  humidity  of  the  climate. 
If  the  soil  is  rich  and  moist,  strong  shoots,  too  strong  for  any  but 
wood  buds  being  formed  on  them,  will  be  produced.  Instead  of  the 
fruitful  laterals  produced  on  the  Kentish  soil,  rod-like  walking  canes 
will  be  produced  when  the  plants  are  grown  in  many  other  parts  of 
the  kingdom.  They  must  be  cut  back,  otherwise  they  would  form 
strong  cross  branches  ;  but  then  we  must  consider  that  each  of  these 
rods,  with  their  ample  foliage,  has  contributed  to  the  formation  of 
roots  during  the  summer ;  that  these  roots  will  be  adequate  to  supply 
nourishment  in  the  following  season  to  all  the  shoots  made  in  the 
present  season;  but  when  the  shoots  are  necessarily  reduced,  say 
more  than  one-half,  either  by  shortening  or  cutting  out  entirely,  then 
the  remaining  portion  has  more  than  double  the  quantity  of  roots 
necessary  for  its  nourishment ;  and  it  will,  in  consequence,  be  stimu- 
lated to  grow  with  excessive  luxuriance. 

THE  PEACH. — The  mode  of  bearing  is  as  follows  :  A,  Fig.  49,  re- 
presents the  branch  of  a  peach-tree.  The  figures  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  denote 
the  respective  ages  of  the  portions  of  branch  opposite.  The  asterisks 
at  the  sides  of  the  shoots,  indicate  the  place  to  which  these  may  be 
shortened  at  the  winter  pruning.  B,  is  a  portion  of  a  bearing  shoot 
furnished  with  both  wood  and  blossom  buds ;  a,  a,  a,  a,  are  blossom 
bubs ;  b,  b,  I,  b,  wood  buds. 

Peach  and  nectarine-trees  bear  their  fruit  exclusively  on  wood  of 
the  preceding  summer's  growth.  For  example,  if  one  pull  a  peach 
in  the  summer  of  1857,  it  must  be  from  wood  formed  in  the  summer 
of  1856,  and  which  had  no  existence,  as  a  shoot,  in  1855,  although 
then  its  origin  might  have  been  traced  to  a  vital  point  within  a  bud. 
Such  an  almost  invisible  point  was  the  shoot  B,  in  1855.  In  sum- 
mer, 1856,  this  point,  developed  from  a  bud,  grew  a  shoot,  furnished 
with  leaves  disposed  singly,  in  twos  or  in  threes,  along  the  growing 
shoot.  In  the  axil  of  each  of  these  leaves,  the  rudiments  of  a  bud 
were  formed.  The  leaves,  having  accomplished  their  office,  dropped 
in  autumn,  whilst  the  energy  of  the  young  buds  continued  to  increase. 
Their  winter  appearance  is  represented  in  B.  The  blossom  buds  are 
distinguished  by  their  plumpness;  they  have  an  ovate  form,  which 
gradually  becomes  globose ;  they  have  a  hoary  appearance,  owing  to 
the  scales  opening  and  exposing  their  downy  integuments.  The  wood 
buds  are  slender  and  conical.  Their  scaly  covering  is  less  deranged 
by  expansion  of  their  interior  parts  in  early  spring,  and  consequently 
they  exhibit  less  of  that  hoary  pubescence  by  which  the  others  are 
distinguished.  In  the  case  of  triple  buds  the  middle  one  is  generally 
a  wood  bud. 

The  peach  differs  materially  from  the  pear  and  apple-trees.  In 
these  a  shoot  may  be  shortened  to  any  bud,  and  the  one  immediately 
below  the  cut  will  almost  invariably  produce  a  shoot ;  but  the  peach 
shoot  must  be  cut  to  where  there  is  a  wood  bud;  for  if  cut  to  a  blos- 
som bud  only,  no  shoot  can  result.  Sometimes  all  the  buds  on  a 


436 


THE  ORCHARD. 


[JUNE 


Fig.  49. 


Slioot  of  Peach-tree. 


shoot  are  blossom 
buds,  except  the  ter- 
minal one  and  one  or 
two  at  the  base. 
Such  shoot  must 
either  be  left  its  en- 
tire length,  or  cut 
back  to  the  wood  bud 
at  its  base.  The 
shoots  of  the  peach 
naturally  terminate 
with  a  wood  bud.  If 
this  be  cut  off,  the 
blossoms  on  the  part 
left  will  expand  and 
the  fruit  may  set,  but 
all  will  prematurely 
drop ;  thus,  if  all  the 
buds  marked  b  were 
blossom  buds,  they 
would  expand j  but 
the  eight  blossoms 
would  either  drop 
without  setting,  or 
the  fruit  would  drop 
at  the  time  of  ston- 
ing; at  all  events,  a 
leafless,  budless  shoot 
would  result,  incapa- 
ble of  further  vege- 
tation. It  dies  down- 
wards to  the  first 
wood  bud.  The  blos- 
som buds,  a  of  B, 
will  produce  four 
peaches,  but  one  is 
enough  to  leave  to 
come  to  perfection. 
From  the  wood  bud, 
b,  shoots  will  pro- 
ceed; these,  in  the 
course  of  the  sum- 
mer, will  form  buds 
for  future  bearing  j 
and  a  twelvemonth 
hence  they  will  ap- 
pear similar  to  those 
on  B,  which  having 
once  borne  fruit  can 
do  so  no  more,  and 
therefore  its  place 
must  be  supplied  by 


JUNE]  THE  ORCHARD.  43 1 

the  most  appropriate  shoot  it  produces  at  or  near  -its  base,  or  by  a 
shoot  from  an  adjoining  branch. 

These  facts  are  the  foundation  of  all  the  long  intricate  plans 
for  pruning  and  training  this  tree.  The  following  are,  I  think, 
the  best  concise  directions  which  have  yet  been  given  on  this  sub- 
ject:— 

"  Commencing  with  the  winter  pruning,  the  first  rule  to  be  laid 
down  as  a  basis  for  all  the  rest,  is  to  shorten  every  shoot  in  propor- 
tion to  its  strength,  and  to  prune  where  the  wood  is  firm  and  well 
ripened  :  this  will  cause  all  the  pithy  and  unripened  wood  to  be  re- 
moved, thence  insuring  a  supply  of  that  which  is  better  ripened  for 
the  ensuing  year.  But  in  order  to  give  every  facility  to  the  ripening 
of  this  wood,  it  must  be  trained  thin,  not  in  profusion  according  to 
the  general  custom,  but  such  shoots  only  as  may  be  required  for  the 
following  year. 

ft  Trees  which  have  arrived  at  a  bearing  state  should  have  their 
strongest  bearing  shoots  shortened  to  twelve  or  fourteen  inches,  those 
next  in  strength  to  eight  or  ten,  and  the  weaker  ones  to  four  or  six 
inches,  pruning  each  to  what  is  termed  a  treble  eye,  or  that  where 
there  is  a  blossom-bud  on  each  side  of  a  wood-bud;  where  branches 
are  not  in  a  bearing  state,  these  treble  eyes  will  not  be  found;  they 
must,  therefore,  be  pruned  to  a  wood-bud  alone,  which  is  always 
known  by  its  sharp  point. 

"  In  May,  the  season  for  disbudding  the  tree,  all  fore-right  shoots, 
as  well  as  those  from  the  back,  must  be  carefully  removed  with  a 
sharp  small-bladed  knife,  taking  care  to  cut  close  to  the  biaach,  but 
not  into  the  bark ;  a  few,  however,  of  these  fore-right  shoots  had  bet- 
ter be  cut  within  a  quarter  of  an  inch  only,  which  will  leave  two  or 
three  leaves  to  each,  to  shade  the  young  fruit,  and  such  slight 
wounds  in  the  branch  as  have  been  occasioned  by  cutting  the  shoots 
off  close. 

"  As  soon  as  the  young  shoots  have  grown  long  enough,  the  lead- 
ing one  from  each  branch  should  be  nailed  neatly  to  the  wall,  select- 
ing one  or  two  of  the  side  shoots  produced  lower  down  the  branch, 
and  training  them  parallel  also.  This  applies  to  those  of  the  stronger 
branches,  at  and  near  the  extremity  of  the  tree.  Those  in  the  middle 
and  near  the  bottom  will  allow  of  but  one  shoot  probably  in  addition 
to  the  leaders;  this  will  depend  upon  the  space  left  in  the  winter 
pruning;  if  sufficient,  it  is  always  better  to  have  a  young  shoot  on 
each  side  as  well  as  the  leader,  than  to  have  only  one,  for  it  is  by  this 
arrangement  that  a  succession  of  young  wood  can  be  kept  up  through- 
out every  part  of  the  tree. 

"  Should  young  shoots,  indicating  extraordinary  vigor,  anywhere 
make  their  appearance,  they  should  immediately  be  cut  out,  unless 
where  a  vacant  part  of  the  wall  can  be  filled  up,  because  an  excessive 
vigor  in  one  part  of  the  tree  cannot  be  supported  without  detriment 
to  the  other.  Peach-trees,  when  in  a  state  of  health  and  vigor, 
generally  throw  out  laterals  from  their  stronger  shoots;  when  this  is 
the  case,  they  should  not  be  cut  off  close,  but  shortened  to  the  last 
eye  nearest  the  branch;  and  if  there  is  room,  one  or  two  of  those 


438 


THE  ORCHARD. 


[JUNE 


Fig.  50. 


Shoot  of  Gooseberry-bush. 

a,  a,  a,  a,  wood-buda. 
6,  b,  b,  b,  fruit-buds. 
c,  c,  c,  young  shoots  cut  back. 


first  produced  may  be  nailed  to  the  wall ; 
or  the  middle  shoot  may  be  cut  out, 
leaving  the  two  lowest  laterals,  and 
allowing  them  to  take  its  place ;  thus 
frequently  obtaining  two  fruit-bearing 
branches,  when  the  former  one  would 
in  all  probability  have  been  wholly  un- 
productive of  fruit  the  following  year." 

THE  GOOSEBERRY-BUSH. — Left  to  its 
natural  growth,  the  Gooseberry  becomes 
an  almost  impenetrable  thicket,  not  at 
all  adapted  for  producing  such  fine  fruit 
as  is  produced  by  plants  properly  culti- 
vated and  pruned. 

In  the  accompanying  cut  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  wood-buds,  a,  a,  a,  a,  are 
on  the  last  summer's  shoot,  whilst  the 
fruit-buds,  b,  b,  6,  b,  are  on  two-years 
old  wood,  and  produce  the  largest  and 
finest  fruit,  but  they  may  be  seen  on 
wood  much  older.  The  buds  marked 
«,  are  called  wood-buds,  because  from 
them  young  shoots  are  produced,  but 
usually  not  from  all  of  them;  for  it  ap- 
pears, that  of  the  buds  on  the  two-years 
old  wood,  which,  a  twelvemonth  back, 
were  similar  to  those  now  marked  a, 
three  had  produced  shoots,  c,  c,  c,  and 
the  others  formed  the  fruit-buds,  b}  b, 
b,b. 

After  the  plants  have  formed  shoots, 
these  must  be  shortened  according  to 
their  strength ;  if  moderately  strong,  to 
about  six  inches.  In  shortening,  care 
must  be  taken  to  cut  to  a  bud  pointing 
the  most  towards  the  direction  which 
the  branch  should  follow,  in  order  to 
complete  the  form  in  which  the  plants 
are  intended  to  be  kept.  The  general 
mode  is  to  keep  the  bush  hollow  in  the 
middle,  and  six,  eight  or  ten  branches 
at  equal  distances,  or  as  nearly  so  as 
possible.  If  two  branches  are  likely  to 
approach  too  near  each  other,  one  or 
both  must  be  cut  to  buds  pointing  in 
the  opposite  direction ;  thus,  in  the 
accompanying  figure,  supposing  the 
branch  were  intended  to  be  prolonged 
more  towards  the  left,  then  the  young 
shoot  is  properly  cut,  as  represented,  for 


JUNE] 


THE  ORCHARD. 


439 


Fig.  51. 


the  uppermost  bud  a  to  proceed  in  that  direction.  On  the  contrary, 
if  the  uppermost  bud  a  had  been  on  the  inside  of  a  shoot,  of  which 
it  would  have  been  desirable  that  the  direction  should  be  outwards, 
towards  the  right,  then  it  would  have 
been  entirely  wrong  to  cut  at  that  bud. 

Observing  thus  to  cut  at  the  proper 
buds,  each  leading  branch  may  be  made 
to  diverge  outwards,  or  to  either  side, 
to  an  extent  sufficient  for  ordinary  cul- 
tivation. The  pruning  of  one  of  the 
leading  branches  may  now  be  detailed 
from  its  commencement.  In  autumn, 
or  early  part  of  winter,  the  shoot  ought 
to  be  shortened  to  some  extent,  bear- 
ing in  mind  that  generally  the  three 
buds  immediately  below  the  section 
will  break  into  shoots;  therefore,  it 
will  be  advisable  to  cut  where  another 
leader  is  required  to  originate  This 
is  the  first  winter  pruning.  The  se- 
cond will  consist  in  shortening  the 
leading  shoot  about  one-third;  and 
also  the  other  shoot  intended  for  an 
adjoining  leader.  If  there  should  be 
another  young  shoot  growing  strongly 
where  not  wanted,  it  may  be  cut  off 
close;  and  others,  weaker,  may  be  cut 
like  that  marked  c  on  the  right  of  the 
engraving.  The  next  season  the  leader 
should  be  shortened,  and  laterals  cut 
to  one  eye,  if  weak;  but  otherwise 
three  or  four  eyes  may  be  left  on  these, 
some  of  which  will  probably  break  into 
shoots,  and  others  will  form  fruit-spurs. 
The  other  branches  will  require  a  si- 
milar treatment.  Young  shoots  should 
be  trained  up  to  supply  the  place  of 
any  branch  exhibiting  symptoms  of 
decay. 

In  the  midland  and  northern  coun- 
ties, an  open  cup-form  of  bush  is  gene- 
rally aimed  at  in  pruning;  on  the  con- 
trary, in  some  cases  in  the  South, 
although  the  branches  are  pruned  and 
thinned,  yet  some  are  left  in  the  cen- 
tre for  the  purpose  of  shade,  otherwise 
the  fruit  would  be  scorched.  Shoot  of  Currant. 

The  CURRANT-BUSH. — Under  every       a,  a,  a,  a,  wood-buds.  &,  &,  fruit* 
mode  of  training,  the  red  Currant,  and 
also  the  white,  require  to  be  regularly 
pruned  every  year.     In  rearing   the 


buds,    but  amongst  them   there   are 


440  THE  VINEYARD.  [JUNE 

young  plants,  the  first  thing  to  be  aimed  at  is  a  clear  stem,  about 
five  inches  in  length,  free  from  suckers.  In  preparing  the  cutting, 
care  should  be  taken  to  remove  all  the  buds  on  the  portion  intended 
to  be  inserted  in  the  ground,  otherwise  many  of  them  would  form 
suckers,  injurious  to  the  plants,  and  troublesome  to  displace  effect- 
ually. In  some  cases,  cuttings  can  be  obtained  long  enough  to  afford 
at  once  the  proper  length  of  stem ;  but  when  such  cannot  be  had, 
when  the  cutting  is  altogether  too  short,  or  proves  so  after  the  neces- 
sary removal  of  the  imperfectly  formed  wood  at  top,  then  three  buds 
above  the  surface  of  the  ground  will  be  sufficient.  These  will  gene- 
rally produce  three  shoots,  all  of  which  may  be  allowed  to  grow  dur- 
ing the  first  summer  after  the  cutting  has  been  planted,  in  order  to 
assist  in  forming  roots.  Supposing  the  plant  is  intended  for  the  open 
ground,  and  that  it  is  to  be  trained  in  the  usual  way,  open  in  the 
centre ;  then  in  autumn,  after  the  leaves  have  fallen,  two  out  of  the 
three  shoots  which  the  plant  has  made  should  be  cut  off,  and  the 
third,  selected  as  the  most  eligible  for  a  stem,  should  be  shortened, 
so  that  the  third  bud  below  the  cut  may  be  five  inches  above  the 
ground.  Three  shoots  will  generally  be  produced  in  the  following 
summer.  In  autumn  the  plants  will  require  to  be  planted  out  where 
they  are  to  remain,  and  at  the  same  time  the  shoots  should  be  cut 
back  to  about  four  inches,  taking  care  to  cut  above  buds  pointing 
outwards.  We  have  now  a  stem  five  inches  high,  and  three  branches 
diverging  from  it,  each  of  them  shortened  to  about  four  inches.  Two 
shoots  should  be  encouraged  from  each  of  these  three,  so  that  in 
autumn  the  plant  will  have  six  shoots,  corresponding  with  the  ulti- 
mate number  of  branches  necessary.  All  other  shoots  must  be  spur- 
red to  within  an  inch  of  their  bases.  The  six  shoots  selected  for 
leaders  should  be  cut  back  so  as  to  leave  them  from  four  to  six  inches 
long;  and,  like  those  of  the  former  season,  they  should  be  cut  to  buds 
pointing  outwards.  At  every  future  winter  pruning  the  terminal 
shoots  of  the  six  branches  should  be  shortened  to  between  four  and 
six  inches  long,  according  to  their  strength.  When  the  branches 
nearly  attain  the  intended  height,  the  terminals  may  be  shortened  to 
two  or  three  buds.  With  regard  to  the  lateral  shoots,  they  must  all 
be  cut  to  within  an  inch  of  the  old  wood  at  every  winter  pruning. 

No  fruit  is  more  improved  than  the  Currant  by  good  pruning. 
When  left  to  itself,  both  bunches  and  berries  are  small  and  worth- 
less j  it  is  only  when  carefully  thinned,  skilfully  pruned,  and  annually 
divested  of  old  spurs,  that  the  fruit  acquires  its  proper  excellence. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

During  the  early  part  of  this  month,  the  vines  will  be  in  full 
«bloom,  which,  in  the  middle  States,  generally  happens  about  the  first 
week  thereof,  a  little  earlier  or  later,  according  to  the  season ;  and 
although  the  vines  may  now  require  some  attendance,  it  is  dangerous 
to  administer  it  until  the  bloom  is  over,  lest  the  blossoms  should  be 


JUNE!  THE  NURSERY.  441 

broken  off  thereby  or  otherwise  injured;  but  when  that  period  arrives, 
let  the  young  shoots  as  they  advance  be  neatly  and  regularly  tied  up 
to  the  stakes,  not  too  close,  that  they  may  enjoy  the  full  benefit  of 
the  sun  and  air;  at  the  same  time  displace  all  weakly  and  unneces- 
sary growths,  any  young  side  shoots  growing  out  of  the  main  ones 
should  be  nipt  off  at  their  first  appearance,  and  the  tops  of  the  bear- 
ing spurs  some  three  leaves  above  the  fruit. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or  when  the  bloom  is  over  and  the 
fruit  is  set,  if  the  weeds  have  made  much  progress,  they  should  be 
extirpated  by  the  most  convenient  means. 

The  young  vines  of  one,  two,  or  three  years'  growth,  should  now 
be  carefully  tied  to  the  poles  placed  for  their  support,  and  never  suf- 
fered to  trail  about  on  the  surface  of  the  earth;  the  ground  must  be 
kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds,  as  these  would  rob  the  plants  of  a 
great  portion  of  their  nourishment,  and  exhaust  the  ground  to  no 
purpose. 


THE    NURSERY. 

WEED,  SHADE,  AND  WATER. 

You  must  observe  in  this  month,  as  directed  in  the  former,  to  keep 
the  ground  between  your  rows  of  trees  entirely  free  from  weeds,  for 
these  are  very  injurious  to  the  plants,  and  nothing  can  have  a  worse 
appearance  than  a  nursery  overgrown  with  weeds  ;  therefore,  this 
caution  cannot  be  too  often  repeated.  Observe,  also,  to  keep  the 
seed-beds,  in  which  the  seeds  of  trees  and  shrubs  were  sown,  per- 
fectly clean,  for  these  plants  being  young,  are  soon  greatly  injured, 
if  not  totally  destroyed,  when  overrun  with  weeds. 

The  beds  of  small,  young,  tender  seedlings  should  now  be  shaded 
from  the  mid-day  sun,  particularly  the  pines,  firs,  and  other  ever- 
greens in  general;  and  also  the  more  delicate  and  rare  deciduous 
trees,  shrubs,  and  herbaceous  plants.  They,  however,  must  not  be 
kept  close,  nor  shaded  too  long  a  time,  for  that  would  draw  them  up 
weak  and  tender;  therefore,  give  but  a  slight  shading  from  about 
ten  to  four  or  five  o'clock,  and  that  only  when  the  sun  is  powerful 
and  no  clouds  interrupt  its  rays. 

The  more  choice  sorts  of  new  planted  trees,  that  is,  such  as  were 
planted  late  in  the  spring,  should  have  occasional  waterings;  and 
observe  to  renew  the  mulch  about  their  roots  where  it  is  decayed;  for 
at  this  season  the  moisture  of  the  earth  will  soon  be  exhaled  and  the 
young  fibres  dried  up  when  this  is  neglected;  besides,  it  will  save 
much  trouble  in  watering. 

The  seedling-beds  of  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  but  more  espe- 
cially the  evergreens,  will  require  frequent  waterings  in  dry  weather; 
let  it  always  be  given  late  in  the  afternoon,  frequently  and  mode- 
rately, as  observed  on  page  403. 


442  THE  NURSERY.  [JUNE 


TRANSPLANTING  SEEDLING  PINES  AND  FIRS. 

It  has  been  advised  by  some  writers  on  gardening,  of  consider- 
able celebrity,  to  plant  out  in  this  month  pines,  firs,  &c.,  from  the 
seed-beds ;  and  asserted  "  that  they  would  be  much  stronger  and 
better  prepared  to  live  through  the  winter  by  this  treatment  than  if 
suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed-beds,  as  their  roots  would  be  fixed  in 
the  ground  and  their  stems  shorter."  The  reverse  of  this  I  have 
experienced  in  upwards  of  twenty  years'  practice,  and  therefore  have 
here  noticed  it,  lest  my  readers  should  be  led  astray  by  such  respect- 
able authorities.  The  true  method  of  treating  these  and  such  plants 
is,  frequently  during  the  summer  months,  as  they  advance  in  growth, 
to  sift  some  loose  earth  over  them  in  the  seed-beds  till  it  comes  up 
to  the  seed  leaves,  by  which  the  stems  are  protected,  and,  as  it  were, 
shortened,  without  disturbing  their  roots  or  checking  their  growth ; 
and,  besides,  it  tends  to  keep  the  moisture  confined  to  the  earth  by 
preventing  its  too  sudden  evaporation,  and  the  loose  sifted  mould 
attracts  the  dews  and  imbibes  the  rains,  when  such  fall,  by  which 
means  the  plants  are  kept  cool,  moist,  and  in  a  constant  growing 
state. 


PROPAGATING  EVERGREENS  AND  OTHER  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  BY 
LAYERS. 

Most  kinds  of  evergreens  and  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  may  now 
be  propagated  by  laying  the  present  year's  shoots;  being  soft  and 
tender,  they  will  emit  roots  much  more  freely  than  the  older  wood; 
and  several  sorts  that  would  not  root  for  two  years  if  laid  in  spring 
or  autumn,  by  this  method  will  be  well  rooted  the  autumn  twelve 
months  after  laying,  and  many  kinds  before  the  ensuing  winter. 
Virgin's  bower,  passion  flowers,  trumpet  flowers,  common  jasmine, 
and  most  of  the  climbing  plants  root  immediately  when  laid  in  this 
way.  For  the  various  methods  of  performing  this  operation,  see 
page  300. 

After  these  are  laid  you  should  observe  to  water  them  occasionally 
in  dry  weather,  which  will  greatly  promote  their  rooting.  But  these 
waterings  should  not  be  too  often  repeated,  nor  too  abundantly  given 
at  a  time,  for  that  would  rot  the  tender  fibres  as  they  proceed  from 
the  layers;  therefore  the  best  method  is  to  lay  mulch  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  after  the  layers  are  put  down,  to  prevent  the  sun  from 
drying  it  too  fast,  then  a  little  water  will  be  sufficient,  and  the  layers 
will  more  certainly  take  root. 

TRIM  UP  EVERGREENS. 

Evergreens  should  now  be  trimmed  up  according  to  the  uses  for 
which  they  are  designed ;  for  if  you  suffer  them  to  grow  rude  in 
summer,  they  cannot  be  so  easily  reduced  afterwards ;  besides,  the 
ruder  they  grow  the  more  naked  they  will  be  near  the  stems. 


JUNE]  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN.  443 


NEWLY  GRAFTED  AND  BUDDED  TREES. 

Take  off  the  clay  and  loosen  the  bandages  of  your  grafted  trees, 
and  where  any  have  made  remarkably  vigorous  shoots  and  seem  to 
need  support  to  protect  them  from  the  power  of  violent  winds,  but 
more  especially  in  exposed  situations,  let  stakes  be  placed  thereto, 
and  the  shoots  bound  to  them  with  strings  of  bass  or  such  like. 

The  vigorous  shoots  from  the  buds  inserted  last  season  may,  under 
like  circumstances,  require  similar  support,  which  ought  to  be  given 
when  deemed  necessary. 

Be  very  particular  to  rub  off  such  young  shoots  proceeding  from 
the  stocks  as  are  independent  of  the  grafts  or  the  inserted  bud- 
shoots;  for  those,  if  suffered  to  remain,  would  rob  the  grafts  and 
budded  shoots  of  a  great  portion  of  nourishment,  and  therefore  ought 
to  be  displaced  as  often  as  they  appear. 

BUDDING. 

Budding  might  now  be  practised  on  most  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs, 
but  when  done  at  this  time,  the  inserted  buds,  generally,  grow  in  the 
present  year,  and  the  shoots  arising  therefrom  are  much  weaker,  and 
worse  prepared  to  withstand  the  winter  frost  than  those  produced  in 
spring,  from  the  buds  inserted  the  preceding  autumn;  and,  in  fact, 
such  seldom  make  but  indifferent  trees.  Therefore,  it  will  be  much 
better  not  to  attempt  this  work,  except  upon  a  few  roses  or  other 
shrubs,  until  the  latter  end  of  July  and  the  autumnal  months,  as 
hereafter  directed.  The  method  of  performing  the  operation  you 
will  find  in  the  Nursery  for  July. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

HYACINTHS  AND  TULIPS. 

Most  of  your  hyacinths  and  tulips  will,  in  the  course  of  this 
month,  be  fit  for  taking  up,  and  then  are  to  be  treated  as  directed  on 
pages  407  and  408. 

TAKING  UP  EARLY  FLOWERING  BULBS  IN  GENERAL. 

^  All  the  different  kinds  of  spring  flowering  bulbs,  such  as  fritilla- 
rias,  crown  imperials,  crocuses,  snow-drops,  &c.,  whose  leaves  are  now 
decayed,  may  be  taken  up  and  treated  as  directed  more  particularly 
in  the  Flower  Garden  for  last  month. 

GUERNSEY  AND  BELLADONNA  AMARYLLISES. 

The  roots  of  the  Guernsey  and  belladonna  amaryllis  may  now,  if 
their  leaves  are  quite  decayed,  be  taken  up,  their  offsets  separated, 


444  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JUNE 

and  all  the  roots  treated  as  directed  for  the  former  in  page  414,  with 
this  difference,  that  during  the  winter  months  the  belladonna  will 
require  rather  more  care  and  protection  than  the  Guernsey  amaryllis ; 
but  both  may  be  considered  as  hardy  green-house  plants.  The  roots 
ought  to  be  replanted  before  the  end  of  July,  as  both  kinds  flower 
late  in  autumn.  The  soil  in  which  to  plant  them  should  be  a  good 
fresh  loam,  mixed  with  about  a  fourth  part  of  fine  sand,  and  the 
roots  are  not  to  be  covered,  when  planted  in  pots,  more  than  half  an 
inch  above  their  crowns. 

These  plants  commonly  flower  in  October,  and  in  some  seasons  not 
till  November ;  but  on  taking  in  the  green-house  plants  those  should 
be  removed  with  them,  and  placed  in  the  windows,  where  they  will 
display  their  beautiful  flowers  in  great  perfection. 

In  such  of  the  southern  States  as  the  winter  frosts  are  not  very 
severe,  both  these  kinds  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground,  and 
two  or  three  inches  of  tan  laid  over  the  beds  on  the  approach  of  frost, 
to  protect  the  bulbs  therefrom,  or  the  beds  may  be  covered  at  such 
times  with  mats  laid  on  hoops,  placed  archwise  over  them,  for  that 
purpose. 

HARDY  AUTUMNAL  FLOWERING  BULBS. 

The  beginning  or  middle  of  this  month  is  still  a  proper  time  to 
take  up  your  yellow  amaryllises,  colchicums,  autumnal  crocuses,  and 
such  other  autumnal  flowering  bulbs  as  have  their  leaves  decayed  or 
in  a  declining  state. 

These  may  be  planted  again  immediately  after  separating  their 
offsets,  or  kept  up  dry  till  July  or  early  in  August,  and  then  planted 
where  they  are  to  flower  in  October,  &c.  The  roots  when  taken  up 
are  to  be  carefully  dried  in  the  shade,  as  directed  for  tulips,  &c.;  and 
it  will  be  well  to  plant  them  either  in  or  before  the  last  week  of 
July  or  the  first  in  August.  By  planting  them  at  this  time  they 
will  blow  stronger  than  if  kept  too  long  out  of  the  ground.  All 
these  sorts,  in  their  flowering  state,  are  generally  unattended  with 
leaves,  which  spring  up  after  the  flowers  fade. 

It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  take  up  these  bulbs  every  year, 
once  in  two  or  three  years  will  do ;  but  then  it  must  be  done,  in 
order  to  separate  the  offsets  for  increase,  and  to  plant  the  strong 
roots  in  fresh  earth,  which  will  cause  them  to  shoot  and  flower  much 
more  luxuriantly. 

CYCLAMENS. 

These  are  all  too  tender  to  bear  the  winter  frosts  of  the  middle 
and  eastern  States,  and  consequently  must  be  treated  as  green-house 
plants,  where  they  should  be  kept  in  the  front  windows,  to  have  the 
benefit  of  as  much  light  and  air  as  possible.  The  leaves  being  gene- 
rally decayed  about  this  time,  the  roots  may  be  taken  up  and  re- 
planted immediately  into  a  composition  of  one-half  good  loamy  earth, 
one-fourth  sand,  and  one-fourth  light  moory  earth,  or  earth  of  rotten 
leaves,  all  being  well  incorporated  together.  They  do  not  require  to 


JUNE]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  445 

be  taken  up  oftener  than  every  second  or  third  year,  and  then  only 
to  give  them  fresh  earth,  as  they  never  increase  by  offsets,  and  are 
only  propagated  by  seed,  or  by  cutting  the  roots  through  across  the 
crowns,  which  latter  method  is,  generally,  very  unsuccessful. 

They  continue  a  long  time  in  bloom,  and  display  flowers  of  a 
curious  structure  and  delicately  beautiful.  The  pots  containing  these 
roots  must  be  kept,  during  the  summer  months,  where  they  will  not 
be  much  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  in  that  time  should  have  but  little 
water,  as  their  roots  are,  generally,  then  in  an  inactive  state,  and 
would  soon  rot  by  too  much  moisture. 

All  the  sorts  may  be  propagated  by  seed,  which  should  be  sown 
soon  after  being  ripe,  or  early  in  spring,  and  covered  near  half  an 
inch  deep;  they  must  always  be  protected  from  frost  and  also  from 
the  summer  sun ;  the  September  following,  you  are  to  lay  over  the 
roots,  not  covering  the  leaves,  half  an  inch  or  better  of  good  loose 
sandy  earth,  and  during  the  following  winter  and  ensuing  summer 
protect  them  as  before.  Any  time  in  the  summer  of  the  second  or 
third  year  that  the  leaves  are  decayed,  take  up  the  roots,  and  replant 
them  in  pots  of  fresh  earth,  covering  them  one  inch  deep ;  here  they 
remain  till  they  flower,  which  will  generally  be  in  the  second  and 
third  years  after  sowing. 

PINKS. 

Your  superb  pinks,  during  the  time  of  bloom,  should  be  defended 
from  the  sun  by  an  awning  of  some  kind,  and  the  soil  ought  to  be 
kept  regularly  moist  by  soft  water,  administered  between  the  plants, 
carefully  avoiding  to  wet  the  blossoms. 

The  most  approved  method  of  propagating  pinks,  is  by  piping 
them  as  directed  for  carnations;  they  seldom  fail  to  strike  sufficient 
root  in  two  or  three  weeks ;  when  well  rooted,  they  may  be  trans- 
planted into  an  open  part  of  the  garden,  on  a  bed  of  common  garden 
mould,  fresh  dug  up,  where  it  will  in  a  few  weeks  be  easily  discerni- 
ble which  are  the  most  proper  to  place  on  the  best  bed  for  bloom. 
The  time  to  pipe  pinks  is  immediately  previous  to,  or  during  the 
bloom,  or,  indeed,  as  soon  as  the  new  shoots  are  grown  of  a  sufficient 
length  for  that  purpose.  The  surest  and  readiest  way,  however,  is  to 
lay  down  the  shoots  two  inches  under  the  soil  immediately  after 
flowering. 

New  sorts  of  pinks  are  produced  from  seed,  but  this  should  be 
gathered  from  such  as  have  superior  properties. 

A  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  PROPERTIES  OF  A  FINE  DOUBLED  PINK. 

The  stem  should  be  strong  and  erect,  and  not  less  than  twelve 
inches  high.  The  calyx  rather  smaller  and  shorter,  but  nearly 
similar  in  form  and  proportion  to  that  of  a  carnation,  as  well  as  the 
formation  of  the  flower,  which  should  not  be  less  than  two  inches 
and  a  half  in  diameter. 

The  petals  should  be  numerous,  large,  broad,  and  substantial,  and 
have  very  finely  fringed  or  serrated  edges,  free  from  large  .coarse 


446  THE  PLEASURE,  OE  [JUNE 

deep  notches  or  indentures ;  in  short,  they  approach  nearest  to  per- 
fection when  the  fringe  on  the  edge  is  so  fine  as  to  be  scarcely  dis- 
cernible; but  it  would  be  a  very  desirable  object  to  obtain  them 
perfectly  rose-leaved,  that  is,  without  any  fringe  at  all. 

The  broadest  part  of  the  limina,  or  broad  end  of  the  petals,  should 
be  perfectly  white  and  distinct  from  the  eye,  unless  it  be  ornamented 
by  a  continuation  of  the  color  of  the  eye  round  it,*  bold,  clean,  and 
distinct,  leaving  a  considerable  portion  of  white  in  the  centre,  per- 
fectly free  from  any  tinge  or  spot. 

The  eye  should  consist  of  a  bright,  or  dark  rich  crimson,  or  pur- 
ple, resembling  velvet ;  but  the  nearer  it  approaches  to  black,  the 
more  it  is  esteemed;  its  proportion  should  be  about  equal  to  that  of 
the  white,  that  it  may  neither  appear  too  large  nor  too  small. 

CARNATIONS. 

The  calyx  of  many  sorts  of  carnations  contains  a  great  number  of 
petals,  which,  as  they  increase  in  bulk,  will  distend  and  burst  it, 
if  not  timely  prevented :  this  will  generally  happen  a  few  days  pre- 
vious to  the  proper  time  of  the  blossoms  opening,  and  will,  if  neg- 
lected, by  letting  out  the  petals  on  one  side,  and  thereby  producing 
a  loose  irregular  appearance,  totally  destroy  that  compact,  graceful 
circular  form,  which  a  perfect  flower  ought  to  possess,  and  which  is 
one  of  its  greatest  ornaments;  but  this  disagreeable  effect  may  be 
easily  avoided  by  fastening  a  small  narrow  slip  of  bladder  round  the 
middle  of  the  pod,  where  it  is  most  swelled,  and  appears  to  have  the 
greatest  inclination  to  burst.  The  slip  of  bladder  should  be  rather 
longer  than  is  required  to  go  once  around,  so  that  one  end  of  it  may 
lay  over  the  other  a  little,  which  by  the  application  of  some  strong 
gum  water,  will  adhere  firmly  together,  and  answer  the  purpose  com- 
pletely. Small  slips  of  wet  bass  may  be  substituted  for  those  of 
bladder,  and  being  tied  with  a  single  knot  around  the  same  part  of 
the  calyx,  will  answer  the  purpose. 

Others  place  upon  the  calyx  thin  pieces  of  card,  cut  circular,  of 
a  proper  size  to  suit  the  blossom,  with  a  hole  in  the  centre  adapted 
to  the  size  of  the  pod,  and  cut  quite  through  from  thence  to  the 
periphery,  in  order  to  admit  the  stem,  after  which  to  draw  them  up 
around  the  calyx;  these  are  to  be  placed  close  to  the  guard  leaves  or 
outside  petals,  to  support  them  horizontally,  and  will,  when  extended 
just  as  far  as  the  extreme  points  of  the  petals,  give  the  flower  a  neat 
and  pleasing  appearance ;  but  these  are  apt  to  warp  when  long  ex- 
posed to  the  weather,  especially  after  being  wet,  and  must,  in  such 
cases,  be  either  taken  off  entirely  or  replaced  with  new  ones,  as  they 
will  no  longer  answer  the  intended  purpose. 

Either  of  the  above  methods  may,  and  should  be  resorted  to,  in 
order  to  have  the  fine  large  bursting  kinds  of  carnations  and  pinks 
to  blow  to  the  greatest  advantage. 

When  the  major  part  of  your  elegant  carnations  are  in  bloom,  an 

*  When  the  corolla  consists  of  petals  of  this  description,  it  is  denomi- 
nated a  Laced  Pink. 


JUNE]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  447 

awning  should  be  placed  over  the  whole,  so  as  to  be  drawn  up  or  let 
down  by  means  of  pulleys.  The  same  frame  that  was  used  for  tulips 
or  hyacinths  would  answer  this  purpose  extremely  well. 

In  order  that  the  flowers  should  appear  to  the  greatest  advantage, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  pots  should  stand  upon  a  stage  erected 
theatre-like ;  and  it  would  be  an  additional  advantage  to  have  the 
flowers  suspended  from  the  sticks  placed  in  the  pots  for  their  support 
by  small  pieces  of  fine  elastic  wire  of  unequal  lengths,  to  support 
them  in  a  natural,  easy,  and  graceful  manner,  neither  too  near  to- 
gether nor  remote  from  each  other ;  one  end  of  the  wire  should  be 
introduced  into  the  stick  by  means  of  a  small  awl,  and  there  fixed 
sufficiently  tight,  to  prevent  its  being  drawn  out  by  the  weight  of 
the  flower ;  the  other  end  of  the  wire  should  be  formed  into  a  small 
ring  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  to  inclose  the  stem 
below  the  calyx;  this  ring  should  be  a  little  open  on  one  side  to 
admit  the  stem  freely  without  bruising  it,  which  would  materially 
injure  the  bloom. 

The  pots  must  be  kept  regularly  and  constantly  watered  during 
the  bloom,  and  no  favorable  opportunity  should  be  neglected  to  allow 
them  the  full  advantage  of  exposure  to  light  and  air ;  but  no  rain 
should  be  admitted  to  the  blossoms  at  any  period  of  their  bloom. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  let  every  pod  blow,  because  it  would  render 
each  blossom  smaller  than  if  only  two  or  three  were  left  on  each 
plant;  it  is,  therefore,  proper,  in  this  case,  to  cut  off  or  draw  out  the 
small  lateral  pods  close  to  the  main  stem  as  soon  as  they  appear,  in 
order  that  the  remainder  may  have  time  to  reap  due  benefit  by  it ; 
but  those  sorts  that  have  remarkably  large  short  pods,  abounding  with 
petals  (commonly  called  bursters)  should  be  suffered  to  bloom  them 
all,  or  the  greater  part,  although,  in  general,  three  or  four  pods  are 
as  many  as  ought  to  be  suffered  to  blow  on  one  plant. 

Modern  florists  divide  the  carnations  into  four  classes : — 

1.  Flakes;  of  two  colors  only,  and  their  stripes  large,  going  quite 
through  the  leaves. 

2.  JBizards;  with  flowers  striped  or  variegated  with  three  or  four 
different  colors  in  regular  spots  and  stripes. 

3.  Piquettes  or  Piquettees;  having  a  white  ground,  and  spotted 
or  pounced  with  scarlet,  red,  purple,  or  other  colors. 

4.  Painted  Ladies;  these  have  the  petals  of  a  red  or  purple  color 
on  the  upper  side,  and  white  underneath.* 

A  DESCRIPTION  OP  THE  PROPERTIES  OP  A  FINE  VARIEGATED  DOUBLE 

CARNATION. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  tall,  and  straight,  not  less  than  thirty, 
nor  more  than  forty-five  inches  high.  The  flower  should  be  at  least 
three  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  petals  well  formed,  neither  so  many 
as  to  appear  crowded,  nor  so  few  as  to  appear  thin.  The  lower  or 

*  These  classes  are  more  particularly  applicable  to  the  once  flowering 
kinds.  The  remontants,  which  bloom  all  the  year  rouiid  if  protected  in 
winter  in  the  green-house,  are  far  more  preferable,  and  now  may  be  had  of 
all  hues  and  kinds  of  stripes. 


448  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JUNE 

outer  circle  of  petals,  commonly  called  the  guard  leaves,  should  be 
particularly  substantial ;  they  should  rise  perpendicularly  about  half 
an  inch  above  the  calyx,  and  then  turn  off  gracefully  in  a  horizontal 
direction,  supporting  the  interior  petals,  which  should  decrease  gradu- 
ally in  size  as  they  approach  the  centre,  which  should  be  well  filled 
with  them.  All  the  petals  should  be  regularly  disposed  and  lie  over 
each  other  in  such  a  manner  as  that  their  respective  and  united 
beauties  may  meet  the  eye  altogether ;  they  should  be  nearly  flat,  or, 
at  most,  have  but  a  small  degree  of  inflection  at  the  broad  end ;  their 
edges  should  be  perfectly  entire  (or  what  is  called  rose-leaved),  with- 
out notch,  fringe,  or  indenture.  The  calyx  should  be  at  least  an 
inch  in  length,  sufficiently  strong  at  the  top  to  keep  the  base  of  the 
petals  in  a  close  and  circular  body.  The  colors  should  be  distinct, 
and  the  stripes  regular,  narrowing  gradually  to  the  claws  of  the  petal, 
and  there  ending  in  a  fine  point.  Almost  one-half  of  each  petal 
should  be  of  a  clear  white,  and  free  from  spots. 

Bizards,  or  such  as  contain  two  or  more  colors  upon  a  white  ground, 
are  esteemed  rather  preferable  to  Flakes,  which  have  but  one,  espe- 
cially when  their  colors  are  remarkably  rich  and  very  regularly  dis- 
tributed. 

Scarlet,  purple,  and  pink,  are  the  three  colors  most  predominant 
in  the  carnation;  the  first  two  are  seldom  to  be  met  with  in  the  same 
flower,  but  the  purple  and  pink  very  frequently. 

PROPAGATING  CARNATIONS  BY  LAYING  AND  PIPING. 

When  carnations,  &c.,  are  propagated  in  the  open  air,  by  their 
shoots  or  layers  connected  with  the  mother  plant,  the  operation  is 
called  laying ;  but  when  they  are  propagated  by  cuttings  taken  from 
the  original  plant,  and  by  the  assistance  of  artificial  means  caused  to 
strike  root  in  a  confined  air,  it  is  called  piping  them. 

The  operation  of  laying,  or  piping,  is  to  commence  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  in  full  bloom;  nevertheless,  those  who  are  particularly 
desirous  to  preserve  their  bloom  in  the  greatest  perfection,  may  defer 
it  till  the  flowers  are  on  the  decline ;  but  others,  anxious  to  have  their 
plants  strong  and  well  rooted  early  in  autumn,  with  a  view  that  the 
layers  may  be  better  prepared  to  endure  the  severities  of  the  ensuing 
winter,  begin  to  lay  at  the  commencement  of  the  bloom ;  at  which 
time,  the  plants  being  full  of  juices  and  vigor,  the  layers  are  the 
better  nourished  and  supported,  and  soon  strike  root ;  but  it  must  be 
allowed  that  the  bloom  is  considerably  impaired  by  the  wounds 
inflicted  in  the  operation,  particularly  so  when  performed  in  an  early 
stage  of  it;  the  old  plants  seldom  survive  unless  very  strong  and 
sound,  or  some  of  the  upper  young  shoots  be  left,  such  as  are  too 
short  to  be  laid  with  convenience;  these  will  encourage  and  continue 
the  circulation  of  the  juices  if  suffered  to  remain. 

Previous  to  entering  on  the  operation  of  laying,  you  must  be  pro- 
vided with  a  sufficient  number  of  wooden  or  other  pegs,  each  to  be 
about  five  or  six  inches  long,  and  formed  somewhat  like  the  figure  7, 
that  is,  with  a  short  hooked  end.  The  operator  should,  likewise,  be 
provided  with  a  table,  on  which  to  place  the  pots,  when  the  plants 


JUNE]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  449 

are  so  grown,  for  the  greater  convenience  in  the  examination,  dress- 
ing, and  laying  of  the  shoots,  also  with  a  sharp  pen-knife,  and  some 
fresh  compost  earth. 

The  layer  may  be  supposed  to  have  four  or  five  joints,  more  or 
less;  the  lower  leaves  next  the  root  are  all  to  be  cut  or  stripped  off 
close  to  within  two  or  three  joints  of  the  extremity  of  the  layer,  and 
its  extreme  points  are  to  be  shortened  by  cutting  the  tops  off  with 
the  knife,  so  as  to  leave  them  only  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches 
in  length  from  the  joint  whence  they  proceed. 

All  the  layers  in  the  pots,  and  also  those  in  the  open  ground,  are 
to  be  thus  treated  or  prepared  before  any  further  procedure  be  made ; 
the  surface  of  the  earth  is  then  to  be  cleared  of  what  has  fallen  on 
it,  and  should  be  stirred  up  about  ftn  inch  deep  :  the  pot  is  then  to 
be  filled  up  nearly  level  with  some  light  rich  compost,  not  of  too 
fine  a  grain. 

The  incision  immediately  follows :  the  knife  should  have  a  small, 
thin,  and  very  sharp  blade ;  it  is  to  be  introduced  on  that  side  the 
layer  next  the  ground,  in  a  sloping  direction  upwards,  to  commence 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  below  the  second  or  third  clean  joint  from  the 
extremity,  and  continue  through  the  middle  of  that  joint,  and  half 
or  three-quarters  of  an  inch  above  it,  the  small  portion  left  under 
and  connected  with  the  joint  is  to  be  cut  off  horizontally,  quite  close 
to  the  bottom  of  the  joint,  but  not  into  it,  as  it  is  from  the  outer 
circle  of  the  bottom  of  the  joint  that  the  fibres  proceed,  consequently, 
that  part  should  not  be  injured. 

After  the  incision  is  made,  which  should  be  through  the  middle 
of  the  joint,  &c.,  and  the  lower  part  dressed  as  before  directed,  the 
layer  is  to  be  gently  forced  down  to  the  earth  with  great  care  to 
avoid  breaking  it  off,  or  even  cracking  it  at  the  joint,  which  would 
prevent  a  due  communication  of  the  juices  of  the  old  plant,  so 
necessary  for  the  support  of  the  layer,  till  it  has  formed  sunicient 
root  to  support  itself;  it  would  likewise  render  it  more  likely  to 
decay  on  the  application  of  water. 

The  layer  is  to  be  held  down  to  the  surface  of  the  earth  by  one  of 
the  pegs  before  described,  which  13  to  be  forced  into  the  soil  close 
behind  the  joint  where  the  incision  was  made,  observing  at  the  same 
time  to  keep  the  slit  a  little  open ;  and  it  is  to  be  observed  that  the 
joint  from  whence  the  fibres  are  expected  to  proceed  should  be  covered 
about  an  inch  deep  with  good  compost  earth,  and  not  deeper ;  for  the 
influence  of  the  air  is  necessary  to  the  free  rooting  of  the  layer. 
The  remainder  of  the  stalk  of  the  layer  should  lay,  as  much  as 
possible,  upon  or  above  the  surface,  but  must  by  no  means  be  covered 
too  deep. 

Carnations  and  pinks,  growing  in  the  open  ground,  in  beds  or 
borders,  &c.,  may  be  propagated  by  laying  them  in  like  manner  as 
above,  or  either  may  be  propagated  by  pipings,  as  follows : — 

PIPING   CARNATIONS  AND   PINKS. 

For  this  purpose  it  is  necessary  to  form  a  bed  of  fine  light  mould, 
or  old  compost  earth,  which  should  be  moderately  moistened  and 
29 


450  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JUNE 

rendered  rather  compact  than  otherwise;  then  take  a  hand  or  bell- 
glass,  and  with  it  mark  its  dimensions  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  in 
order  to  know  where  to  stick  in  the  pipings,  so  as  to  lose  no  room, 
or  endanger  their  being  disturbed  when  the  glass  is  placed  over 
them. 

The  cuttings  intended  to  be  piped  are  to  have  two  complete  joints, 
that  is  to  say,  they  are  to  be  cut  off  horizontally  close  under  the 
second  joint;  the  extremities  or  points  of  the  leaves  are  likewise  to 
be  shortened  as  for  laying,  which  will  leave  the  whole  length  of  the 
piping  about  two  inches;  as  soon  as  thus  prepared  they  may  be  thrown 
into  a  basin  of  soft  water  for  a  few  minutes  to  plump.  They  are 
then  to  be  taken  out  of  the  basin  singly,  and  forced  into  the  earth 
in  their  wet  state  not  more  than  an  inch  deep,  and  about  two  inches 
asunder  every  way. 

When  a  sufficient  number  for  the  glass  are  thus  placed  regularly, 
they  are  to  be  very  gently  watered,  in  order  that  the  earth  may  ad- 
here more  closely  to  them,  and  thereby  keep  out  the  air;  after  this 
watering  they  are  to  remain  open,  but  not  exposed  to  the  sun,  till 
their  leaves  become  perfectly  dry,  after  which  the  glass  is  to  be  placed 
over  them  carefully,  in  the  same  mark  that  was  made  by  it  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil  before  the  insertion  of  the  pipings. 

The  bottom  edges  of  the  glass,  or  glasses,  are  to  be  forced  a  little 
into  the  earth  to  keep  out  the  influence  of  the  external  air,  and  to 
preserve  a  moist  atmosphere  about  the  pipings,  till  their  young 
radicles  are  established  and  begin  to  act;  for  if  fully  exposed  to  the 
air  before  that  period,  it  would  carry  off  from  the  leaves,  &c.,  a 
greater  portion  of  juices  than  the  young  plants  could,  for  the  present, 
extract  from  the  earth,  and  consequently  they  must  perish  thereby. 
This  is  the  particular  reason  why  cuttings  of  every  kind  succeed 
better  when  thus  treated  than  when  left  exposed  to  the  influence  of 
the  weather. 

The  pipings  should  have  a  little  of  the  morning  sun,  but  must  be 
.shaded  from  it  when  the  heat  increases;  this  will  easily  be  effected 
by  placing  mats  upon  a  slight  frame  of  hoops  or  laths,  erected  over 
the  bed,  about  two  feet  above  it. 

The  glasses  should  be  occasionally  taken  off,  for  half  an  hour  at 
.a  time,  early  in  the  morning,  or  late  in  the  afternoon,  to  admit  fresh 
air ;  if  this  material  point  is  neglected,  the  consequence  will  be  a 
.green  mossy  appearance  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  a  universal 
inouldiness  amongst  the  plants  which  will  destroy  them. 

When  the  fibres  are  formed,  which  the  additional  verdure  and 
growth  of  the  plants  will  demonstrate,  the  glasses  should  be  placed 
over  them  very  lightly,  in  order  that  more  air  be  admitted;  and 
when  they  become  tolerably  well  rooted,  the  glasses  being  no  longer 
necessary,  should  be  entirely  taken  away ;  continue  to  water  them 
frequently,  but  moderately,  as  they  progress  in  growth,  and  for  their 
further  treatment  see  the  flower  garden  for  next  month. 

Some  sorts  of  carnations  succeed  much  better  by  piping  than 
laying,  and  make  healthier  plants:  This  is  particularly  the  case  with 
the  remontants,  but  it  requires  attention  and  experience  to  distinguish 


JUNE]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  451 

such  sorts  in  the  other  classes  from  the  rest,  which  must  depend 
wholly  on  the  discernment  of  the  cultivator. 

PLANTING    CARNATION   AND    PINK    SEEDLINGS. 

The  carnation  and  pink  seedlings  sown  early  in  spring,  may  now 
be  planted  into  nursery  beds,  in  rows,  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder, 
and  plant  from  plant  five  or  six  inches,  there  to  remain  till  September 
or  October,  when  they  are  to  be  planted  at  greater  distances  to  remain 
for  flowering. 

Persons  who  are  fond  of  carnations  and  pinks,  ought  to  sow  some 
seed  of  each  sort  every  year,  for  it  is  by  this  means  that  all  the  fine 
new  varieties  of  these  charming  flowers  are  obtained. 

When  new  sorts  are  procured  in  this  way,  they  are  to  be  increased 
by  layers  or  pipings,  and  will  generally  keep  to  their  original  colors ; 
but  when  propagated  by  seed,  very  few  will  be  found  to  possess  the 
same  colors  and  properties  as  the  mother  plant. 

DOUBLE  SWEET-WILLIAM. 

The  fine  kinds  of  double  sweet-william  may  now  be  propagated, 
either  by  slips  or  by  laying  the  young  shoots,  as  directed  for  carna- 
tions ;  in  either  way,  they  will  root  freely,  but  if  the  slips  are  planted, 
they  will  require  shade  as  well  as  occasional  waterings  for  ten  or 
twelve  days  after. 

TRANSPLANTING  ANNUALS. 

You  may  now  transplant  into  the  borders  and  other  places  where 
wanted,  all  the  different  kinds  of  annual  flowers  that  succeed  in  that 
way,  and  that  stand  too  close  where  they  had  been  sown  j  such  as 
French  and  African  marigolds,  China  asters,  cocks-combs,  chrysan- 
themums, China  pinks,  China,  hollyhocks,  balsams,  amaranthuses  of 
various  sorts,  gomphrena  globosa,  and  many  other  kinds,  observing 
to  do  this  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  if  possible,  and  to  give  them 
shade  and  frequent  refreshments  of  water  till  newly  rooted ;  let  them 
be  taken  up  and  transplanted  with  as  much  earth  as  possible  about 
their  roots,  whether  into  flower-pots  or  elsewhere. 

THINNING  AND  SUPPORTING  FLOWERING  PLANTS,  ETC. 

Wherever  you  have  sown  annual  flower  seeds  in  patches,  &c.,  and 
they  have  grown  too  thick,  you  must  thin  them  to  proper  distances, 
according  to  their  respective  habits  of  growth,  so  as  to  allow  them 
full  liberty  to  attain  the  utmost  perfection. 

Place  sticks  for  the  support  of  the  various  kinds  that  require  it, 
whether  annual,  perennial,  biennial,  or  climbing  plants,  as  directed 
on  page  411,  observing  the  method  there  recommended. 

Cut  off,  close  to  the  ground,  the  decaying  flower-stems  of  such 
perennial  plants  as  are  past  flowering,  and  clear  the  roots  from  dead 
leaves  ;  but  where  intended  to  save  seed  from  any  of  the  kinds,  leave 
for  that  purpose  some  of  the  principal  stems. 


452  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [  JUNE 

Trim,  dress,  and  tie  up  any  disorderly  growing  plants,  pick  off  all 
withered  leaves,  and  cut  out  decayed  parts. 

PROPAGATING  FIBROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS  BY  CUTTINGS. 

You  may  still  continue  to  propagate  the  double  scarlet-lychnis, 
double-rocket,  lychnideas  or  phloxes,  with  many  other  like  kinds,  by 
cuttings  of  the  flower-stalks,  as  directed  for  the  scarlet-lychnis,  in 
May. 

TRANSPLANTING  SEEDLING  PERENNIALS  AND  BIENNIALS. 

Transplant  from  the  seed-beds  the  early  sown  perennial  and 
biennial  seedling  flower  plants,  that  are  grown  to  a  sufficient  size  ; 
such  as  sweet-williams,  sweet  scabious,  Canterbury-bells,  rose-cam- 
pion and  monk's-hood,  soapwort,  valerian,  Chinese  ixia,  asclepiases, 
asters  and  rhexias;  coreopsis,  hibiscuses,  dracocephalums,  &c.,  &c., 
&c. 

Prepare  for  these  three  or  four  feet  wide  beds  of  good  earth,  and 
plant  them  by  line  at  six  inches  distance  every  way,  water  them  im- 
mediately, and  if  the  weather  be  very  dry,  give  occasional  shade  and 
waterings  till  they  have  taken  root  and  begin  to  grow.  The  plants 
are  to  remain  in  these  beds  until  autumn  or  spring,  and  are  then  to 
be  planted  out  finally  into  the  beds  or  borders  where  they  are  intended 
to  flower  the  ensuing  year. 

STOCK- GILLYFLOWERS  AND  WALL-FLOWERS. 

The  stock-gillyflowers  and  wall-flowers  are  not  sufficiently  hardy  to 
bear  the  winter  frosts  of  the  middle  or  eastern  states;  therefore,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  plant  the  seedlings  of  these  kinds  in  some  con- 
venient place  where  a  garden  frame  may  be  placed  over  them  in 
winter,  on  which  to  lay  boards  or  any  slight  covering  for  their  pro- 
tection, as  directed  in  November.  Or  you  may  plant  them  now  in 
the  open  borders  to  grow  till  September,  then  to  be  taken  up  and 
potted,  and  in  November  they  are  to  be  removed  into  their  winter 
quarters:  or,  they  may  immediately  be  planted  into  small  pots,  which 
are  to  be  plunged  into  some  shady  border,  where  you  can  give  them 
water  during  the  season  according  to  their  necessities. 

TRIM  BOX  EDGINGS. 

Take  advantage  of  the  first  moist  weather  that  happens  after  the 
middle  of  this  month,  in  which  to  clip  and  dress  your  box  edgings ; 
for  if  done  in  dry  or  parching  weather  they  are  apt  to  turn  foxy,  and 
consequently,  lose  much  of  their  beauty. 

The  edgings  should  be  cut  very  neat,  even  at  top  and  both  sides, 
and  ought  not  to  be  suffered  to  grow  higher  than  two  or  three  inches, 
nor  broader  than  two.  When  the  edgings  of  box  are  kept  near  that 
size,  they  look  extremely  neat,  but  if  permitted  to  grow  to  the  height 
of  four,  five,  or  six  inches,  and  perhaps  near  as  much  in  breadth, 


JUNE]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  453 

they  then  assume  a  clumsy  and  heavy  appearance,  and  deprive  the 
beds  and  borders  of  that  apparent  roundness  so  necessary  to  set  them 
off  to  advantage. 

DRESSING  THE  FLOWER-BORDERS  AND  SHRUBBERIES,  ETC. 

The  flower-borders,  beds,  shrubbery- clumps,  and  all  other  orna- 
mental compartments,  must  now  be  kept  remarkably  clean  and  neat, 
and  no  weeds  suffered  to  appear,  or  at  least  to  grow  to  any  consider- 
able size  in  any  of  these  places.  The  weeds  must  be  exterminated 
immediately  on  their  appearance  either  by  hoe  or  hand,  occasionally, 
and  this  should  be  performed  on  a  dry  day ;  if  with  the  hoe,  cutting 
them  up  within  the  ground  and  raking  them  off  immediately. 

Examine  the  evergreens  and  flowering  shrubs,  and  where  any  have 
made  disorderly  shoots,  let  such  be  cut  clean  out  or  shortened,  as  you 
may  deem  expedient,  in  order  to  preserve  the  heads  in  due  form  and 
of  an  elegant  appearance. 

WATERING. 

Occasional  waterings  must  be  given  to  all  your  late  planted  shrubs 
and  flowers,  and  particularly  to  the  annual,  perennial,  and  biennial 
flower  plants  newly  planted  out  into  nursery  beds. 

Your  entire  stock  of  plants  in  pots  and  boxes,  seedlings  and  others, 
must  be  watered  as  often  as  the  earth  about  them  becomes  dry  and 
unfriendly  to  vegetation ;  and  your  carnation  and  other  layers  must 
be  duly  attended  to  in  this  respect  to  preserve  the  earth  about  them 
moderately  moist,  and  only  so. 

For  some  useful  observations  in  respect  to  watering,  see  page  404. 


GRASS  AND  GRAVEL- WALKS. 

The  grass  and  gravel-walks,  &c.,  must  be  treated  constantly  during 
the  summer  and  autumn,  as  directed  on  page  415. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 


GENERAL  CARE  OF  THE  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

The  plants  being  now  out  and  fully  exposed  to  the  air,  will  require 
a  constant  supply  of  water;  it  is  impossible  to  say  how  often  it  ought 
to  be  administered,  or  how  much  should  be  given  at  a  time,  as  the 
state  of  weather,  the  different  constitutions  and  habits  of  the  plants, 
and  also  the  size  of  the  pots  or  tubs  as  well  as  of  the  plants  them- 
selves, make  a  material  difference  in  that  respect.  The  only  true 
guide  is  the  state  of  the  earth  in  the  pots  or  tubs,  which  should  always 
be  kept  moist  and  in  a  proper  condition  to  promote  and  encourage 
vegetation.  In  very  hot  weather,  the  plants  that  are  in  small  pots  will 


454  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JUNE 

require  some  water  both  morning  and  evening,  at  other  times  once  a 
day  will  be  sufficient;  but  as  the  plants  have  no  other  nourishment 
but  what  they  extract  from  the  earth  within  the  pots  or  tubs,  it  ought 
to  be  a  general  rule  to  keep  it  constantly  moist,  but  not  too  wet. 

The  best  water  for  this  purpose  is  such  as  is  taken  from  rivers  or 
ponds  where  it  is  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  so  that  if  you 
have  no  other  than  spring  or  well  water,  it  should  always  be  exposed 
in  cisterns,  &c.,  to  the  sun  and  air  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  it 
is  used. 

You  may,  about  once  a  fortnight,  use  a  weak  solution  of  guano  in 
the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  twenty  gallons,  or  the  diluted  drain- 
ings  from  a  dunghill;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  these  materials 
are  weak  enough ;  for  these  strongly  impregnated  waters,  instead  of 
affording  nourishment,  cause  the  leaves  to  change  to  a  pale  sickly 
color,  and  ultimately  bring  on  a  general  debility ;  they  operate  like 
hot  liquors  on  human  bodies,  which,  at  first  taking,  seem  to  add  new 
vigor,  yet,  after  some  time,  leave  the  body  weaker  than  before. 

If  mowings  of  short  grass,  or  some  moss,  be  spread  on  the  surface 
earth  of  the  large  tubs  or  pots  of  oranges,  lemons,  &c.,  it  will  pre- 
serve the  moisture  and  defend  the  upper  roots  from  the  sun  and  dry- 
ing air. 

Such  of  the  pots  with  plants,  as  are  plunged  in  the  earth,  must  be 
turned  fully  around  in  their  seats  once  a  week  to  break  off  such  fibres 
as  extend  through  the  holes  at  bottom  into  the  surrounding  earth ; 
for  the  reasons  of  doing  this  see  pages  416  and  417. 

Some  people  thin  what  they  consider  the  superabundant  blossoms 
of  oranges  and  lemons ;  this  I  do  not  approve  of,  as  it  is  probable 
that  such  as  would  set  the  best  fruit  might  be  plucked  off  as  well  as 
any  other ;  therefore  it  will  be  the  better  way  to  suffer  the  whole 
bloom  to  remain,  and  if  too  abundant  a  crop  of  fruit  should  happen 
to  set,  to  thin  them  soon  after  to  a  sufficient  a  number.  However, 
where  some  are  wanted  for  making  orange-flower  water,  the  smallest 
may  be  picked  off  where  they  appear  in  clusters,  leaving  the  largest 
and  most  promising.  Any  declining  myrtles,  or  other  hard-wooded 
plants,  may  be  greatly  restored  to  strength  and  vigor  by  turning  them 
out  of  their  pots,  earth  and  all,  and  placing  the  balls  in  baskets  made 
of  peeled  or  dried  willows,  and  plunging  these  in  the  open  borders 
till  September ;  when  they  are  to  be  taken  up,  the  extending  roots 
trimmed  off,  the  baskets  cut  away,  and  the  plants  with  the  entire 
balls  replanted  in  suitable-sized  pots  or  tubs,  after  which  they  are  to 
be  placed  in  the  shade  till  housed. 

PROPAGATING  THE  PLANTS. 

Myrtles  may  be  propagated  abundantly  towards  the  middle  or  lat- 
ter end  of  the  month  by  slips  or  cuttings  of  the  present  year's  wood, 
as  may  also  hydrangeas,  fuchsias,  China  and  Otaheite  roses ;  coronil- 
las,  bupthalmum  fruticosum,  geraniums,  jasmines,  heliotropiums, 
and  almost  every  other  kind  of  shrubby  or  under  shrubby  plants ; 
observing  when  dressed  and  the  under  leaves  taken  off  to  plant  them 
three,  four,  or  five  inches  deep,  according  to  their  respective  lengths, 


JUNE]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  455 

in  wide  garden  pans  or  pots  filled  with  light  rich  earth,  or  into  beds 
of  similar  earth,  where  they  can  have  occasional  shade  and  waterings 
till  rooted.  However,  the  covering  of  them  with  bell-glasses  will 
greatly  facilitate  their  rooting  and  promote  their  growth,  which  is  by 
far  the  most  eligible  method,  but  particularly  for  woody  plants,  and 
such  others  as  are  not  of  the  succulent  tribe.* 

This  is  also  a  very  proper  time  to  propagate  succulent  plants  of 
most  kinds,  which  are  to  be  treated  as  directed  on  page  416,  under 
the  article  Propagating  the  Plants. 


TRANSPLANTING  SEEDLING  EXOTICS. 

You  should  now  transplant,  separately,  into  small  pots,  any  ad- 
vanced young  seedling  exotics,  which  were  raised  this  year  from 
seed ;  giving  them  shade  and  occasional  waterings  till  newly  rooted. 

BUDDING. 

Any  time  this  month  you  may  bud  oranges,  lemons,  citrons,  and 
shaddocks ;  the  buds  are  not  to  be  taken  from  the  shoots  made  this 
season,  as  they  are  not  yet  sufficiently  ripe,  but  from  those  produced 
last  autumn,  which  will  now  take  freely,  and  produce  handsome 
shoots  in  the  present  year. 

In  about  three  weeks  or  a  month  the  buds  will  be  taken,  when  you 
are  to  untie  the  bandages,  and  soon  after  head  down  the  stocks  of 
such  as  are  plump,  fresh,  and  well  united,  to  within  four  inches  of 
the  buds,  cutting  off  all  side  branches  and  suffering  no  other  buds  to 
grow  but  the  inserted  ones :  as  the  shoots  advance  tie  them  to  the 
spurs  left  for  that  purpose  to  prevent  their  being  broken  off  by 
winds,  or  displaced  by  any  other  accidents. 

Budding,  however,  should  not  at  this  time  be  generally  practised, 
for  the  buds  now  inserted  will  start  in  a  few  weeks,  and  the  shoots 
produced  thereby  will  not  be  as  ripe,  nor,  consequently,  in  as  good 
condition  to  stand  the  winter  as  those  produced  in  the  early  part  of 
the  season  from  the  buds  inserted  in  August.  For  the  method  of 
budding  see  the  Nursery  in  July. 

CAPE  AND  OTHER  GREEN-HOUSE  BULBS. 

The  green-house  bulbs  and  tuberous-rooted  plants,  natives  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  &c.,  whose  leaves  are  now  decayed,  such  as 
gladioluses,  ixias,  watsonias,  antholizas,  ornithogalums,  moreas,  oxa- 
lis,  &c.,  may  be  taken  up  and  immediately  transplanted,  or  they  may 
be  kept  up  till  September,  and  if  carefully  wrapped  in  dry  moss,  it 
will  tend  greatly  to  their  preservation;  but  there  are  some  kinds 
which  will  require  to  be  planted  into  pots  of  fresh  earth  immediately, 

*  The  cuttings  of  geraniums  (pelargonium)  at  this  season,  root  the  best 
and  soonest  when  placed  in  the  ground  in  a  situation  which  is  only  shaded 
from  the  hottest  of  the  mid-day  sun.  If  put  under  glass  and  kept  close 
they  are  subject  to  rot. 


456  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JUNE 

such  as  cyclamens,  &c.,  and  all  the  autumnal  flowering  bulbs,  such 
as  the  Guernsey  and  belladonna  amaryllises,  must  not  be  kept  longer 
out  of  the  ground  than  the  end  of  next  month,  as  that  would  greatly 
weaken  their  bloom. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

The  more  tender  kinds  of  exotics,  which  could  not  with  safety  be 
brought  out  into  the  open  air  the  latter  end  of  last  month,  should" 
now  be  placed  where  intended  to  remain  during  summer. 

Their  subsequent  treatment  whilst  out,  being  exactly  similar  to 
that  directed  for  the  green-house  plants,  in  this  and  the  preceding 
month,  induces  me,  in  order  to  avoid  repetitions,  to  refer  you  to 
those  articles.  But  let  it  be  observed,  that  although  most  of  the 
shrubby  kinds  will  require  abundance  of  water  at  this  season,  yet 
that  article  must  be  administered  with  rather  a  sparing  hand  to  the 
succulent  tribe. 

PINE-APPLES. 

The  pine-apple  plants  must  now  have  abundance  of  air  night  and 
day,  by  keeping  all  the  upright  front  lights  slid  open,  and  also  the 
roof-lights,  except  during  heavy  rains,  when  the  roof-lights  must  be 
kept  close  to  preserve  the  bark-pit  from  too  much  wet.  The  plants 
will  likewise  require  frequent  refreshments  of  water,  but  this  should 
not  be  given  too  copiously  at  one  time. 

Some  of  the  most  forward  pine-apples  will,  about  the  end  of  the 
month,  be  advancing  towards  maturity;  be  careful  at  that  time  to 
give  such  plants  but  little  water,  for  too  much  would  spoil  the  flavor 
of  the  fruit. 

The  succession  pines  must  likewise  have  abundance  of  air  and  a 
sufficiency  of  water,  to  keep  them  in  a  regular  and  constant  state  of 
vegetation. 

PROPAGATING  HOT-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Continue  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  plants  belonging  to 
this  department,  by  cuttings,  layers,  offsets,  suckers,  and  seeds,  as 
directed  in  the  preceding  months. 

All  the  succulent  tribe  may  now  be  easily  propagated  by  suckers, 
slips,  cuttings,  &c.,  laying  them  when  taken  off  in  a  shady  place  for 
a  week  or  ten  days,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  degree  of  succu- 
lency,  before  they  are  planted. 


JUNE]  ORCHIDEOUS  HOUSES.  45 T 


ORCHIDEOUS    HOUSES. 

These  beautiful  structures  are  now  rendered  highly  ornamental, 
and  are  so  general  among  the  wealthy  that  a  gardener  is  expected  to 
understand  their  structure  and  conduct. 

The  London  Horticultural  Society  Journal  has  published  the  an- 
nexed drawing  and  account  of  the  orchideous  house  of  J.  Dillwyn 
Llewelyn,  Esq.,  at  Swansea,  in  Wales,  whose  description  is  as 
follows  : — 

"  I  inclose  with  this  the  section  of  the  stove,  which  I  promised  to 
send.  This  will  show  the  shape  of  the  building ;  the  water  for  the 
supply  of  the  cascade  is  conducted  to  the  top  of  the  house  by  means 
of  a  pipe  communicating  with  a  pond  at  a  higher  level.  This  pipe 
is  warmed  by  passing  with  a  single  coil  through  the  boiler,  and  ter- 
minates at  the  top  of  the  rock-work,  where  it  pours  a  constant  supply 
of  water  over  three  projecting  irregular  steps  of  rough  stone,  each  of 
which  catches  the  falling  stream,  dividing  it  into  many  smaller  rills, 
and  increasing  the  quantity  of  misty  spray.  At  the  bottom  the 
whole  of  the  water  is  received  into  the  pool  which  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  floor  of  the  stove,  where  it  widens  out  into  an  aquarium  orna- 
mented with  a  little  island  overgrown  like  the  rock-work  with  Or- 
chideee,  Ferns,  and  Lycopods. 

"  The  disposition  of  the  stones  in  the  rock-work  would  depend 
much  on  the  geological  strata  you  have  to  work  with  :  in  my  case 
they  lay  flat  and  evenly  bedded,  and  thus  the  portions  of  the  rock- 
work  are  placed  in  more  regular  courses  than  would  be  necessary  in 
many  other  formations.  In  limestone  or  granite  countries,  designs 
much  more  ornamental  than  mine  might,  I  think,  be  easily  con- 
trived. 

"  The  account  of  the  splendid  vegetation  which  borders  the  cata- 
racts of  tropical  rivers,  as  described  by  Schomburgk,  gave  me  the 
first  idea  of  trying  this  experiment.  I  read  in  the  '  Sertum  Orchida- 
ceum'  his  graphic  description  of  the  falls  of  the  Berbice  and  Esse- 
quibo,  on  the  occasion  of  his  first  discovery  of  Huntleya  violacea.  I 
was  delighted  with  the  beautiful  picture  which  his  words  convey,  and 
thought  that  it  might  be  better  represented  than  is  usual  in  stoves. 

"  With  this  view  I  began  to  work,  and  added  the  rock-work  which 
I  describe  to  a  house  already  in  use  for  the  cultivation  of  Orchideous 
plants.  I  found  no  difficulty  in  rearranging  it  for  its  new  design, 
and  after  a  trial  now  of  about  two  years  can  say  that  it  has  entirely 
answered  the  ends  I  had  in  view. 

"  The  moist  stones  were  speedily  covered  with  a  thick  carpet  of 
seedling  Ferns,  and  the  creeping  stems  of  tropical  Lycopods,  among 
the  fronds  of  which  many  species  of  Orchidese  delighted  to  root 
themselves. 

"  Huntleya  violacea  was  one  of  the  first  epiphytes  that  I  planted, 
and  it  flowered  and  throve  in  its  new  situation,  as  I  hoped  and  ex- 
pected. The  East  Indian  genera,  however,  of  Vanda,  Saccolabium, 


458 


ORCHIDEOUS  HOUSES. 


[JUNE 


Aerides,  and  other  caulescent  sorts,  similar  in  habit  and  growth,  were 
the  most  vigorous  of  all,  and  many  of  these  in  a  very  short  time  only 

Fig.  52. 


Interior  of  orchideous  house,  "Wales. 


JULY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  459 

required  the  use  of  the  pruning-knife  to  prevent  their  overgrowing 
smaller  and  more  delicate  species. 

"Plants  that  are  grown  in  this  manner  have  a  wild  luxuriance 
about  them  that  is  unknown  to  the  specimens  cultivated  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner,  and  to  myself  they  are  exceedingly  attractive,  more 
resembling  what  one  fancies  them  in  their  native  forests — true  air- 
plants,  depending  for  their  subsistence  on  the  humid  atmosphere 
alone. 

"  Different  species  thus  intermingle  together  in  a  beautiful  confu- 
sion, Dendrobium,  and  Camarotis,  and  Renanthera,  side  by  side, 
with  wreaths  of  flowers  and  leaves  interlacing  one  another,  and  send- 
ing their  long  roots  to  drink  from  the  mist  of  the  fall,  or  even  from 
the  water  of  the  pool  below. 

"  Many  species  are  cultivated  upon  the  rocks  themselves,  others 
upon  blocks  of  wood,  or  baskets  suspended  from  the  roof,  and  thus 
sufficient  room  is  secured  for  a  great  number  of  plants.  At  the  same 
time  the  general  effect  is  beautiful,  and  the  constant  humidity  kept 
up  by  the  stream  of  falling  water  suits  the  constitution  of  many  spe- 
cies in  a  degree  that  might  be  expected  from  a  consideration  of  their 
native  habits  ;  and  I  would  strongly  recommend  the  adoption  of  this 
or  some  similar  plan  to  all  who  have  the  means  of  diverting  a  stream 
of  water  from  a  level  higher  than  the  top  of  their  stove. 

"  This,  I  think,  in  most  situations  might  be  easily  contrived.  Our 
house  lies  on  high  ground,  and  the  water  is  brought  from  a  consider- 
able distance,  but  yet  I  found  very  little  difficulty  or  expense  in  its 
construction." 


JULY. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

Clean  and  prepare  the  ground  where  your  early  crops  of  cauli- 
flowers and  cabbages  grow,  and  also  any  other  vacant  spots,  in  order 
to  receive  such  seeds  and  plants  as  are  proper  to  supply  the  table 
with  good  vegetable  productions  in  autumn  and  winter. 

MELONS  AND  CUCUMBERS,  ETC. 

Your  crops  of  melons  and  cucumbers  should  now  be  kept  very 
clean  and  free  from  weeds,  the  spaces  between  the  hills  must  be  care- 
fully hoed  in  dry  weather  without  injuring  the  vines;  also,  hoe  and 
weed  the  crops  of  water-melons,  squashes,  pumpkins,  &c.,  for  unless 
they  are  kept  perfectly  clean,  good  fruit  and  numerous  productions 
cannot  be  expected. 


460  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JULY 


SOWING  MELONS  FOR  MANGOES. 

The  first  week  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  in  the  middle 
States  to  sow  a  principal  crop  of  melons  for  mangoes ;  they  are  to  be 
sown  and  managed  as  directed  on  pages  382  and  421.  The  long, 
smooth  musk-melon  is  generally  sown  for  that  purpose. 

SOWING  CUCUMBERS  FOR  PICKLING,  ETC. 

Sow  in  the  first  week  or  ten  days  of  this  month,  a  general  crop  of 
cucumbers  for  pickling,  and  treat  them  in  every  respect  as  directed 
for  like  crops  in  May  and  June. 

The  long  green  Turkey  cucumber  is  preferred  by  many  for  this 
purpose,  but  it  is  not  very  prolific;  the  long  and  short  prickly,  and 
particularly  the  green  cluster  cucumber  being  great  bearers,  will  be 
more  profitable,  and  are  equally  good  for  use.  Some  of  the  early 
frame  or  short  prickly  kinds  may  be  sown  in  the  middle  or  any  time 
in  the  month  for  a  late  crop. 

PLANTING  CABBAGES,  SAVOYS,  BORECOLE,  ETC. 

Take  advantage  of  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  and  plant  out  your 
late  crops  of  cabbages,  savoys,  borecole,  broccoli,  turnip-cabbage, 
Brussels  sprouts,  Jerusalem  kale,  and  any  other  of  the  cabbage  tribe 
that  you  wish  to  cultivate ;  let  them  be  planted  as  directed  in  the 
former  months,  and  immediately  watered,  which  must  be  frequently 
repeated  till  they  are  newly  rooted  and  in  a  free  growing  state.  The 
laying  of  a  fresh  cabbage  leaf  over  each  plant  when  set,  will  afford 
protection  from  the  sun  for  a  few  days,  which  will  be  of  considerable 
service.  Some  seed  of  the  green  curled  borecole  may  now  be  sown 
for  a  late  crop. 

TRANSPLANTING  AND  SOWING  ENDIVE. 

Plant  out,  to  supply  the  table  early  in  autumn,  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  the  best  and  stoutest  endive ;  it  requires  a  good,  strong,  and 
(at  this  season)  moist  ground ;  if  well  dunged,  it  will  be  an  addi- 
tional advantage.  Put  in  the  plants  a  foot  asunder  every  way,  and 
water  them  immediately,  which  repeat  every  evening  till  the  plants 
have  taken  root. 

Sow  endive  seed  in  an  open,  cool,  and  moist  situation,  two  or  three 
times  this  month,  for  the  greater  certainty  of  procuring  a  regular 
supply ;  let  it  be  of  the  curled  kind,  and  sown  tolerably  thin,  for 
when  the  plants  grow  too  close  in  the  seed-beds,  they  are  more  sub- 
ject to  start  soon  to  seed  than  if  they  had  been  raised  at  moderate 
distances.  Give  occasional  waterings  to  the  seed-beds,  both  before 
and  after  the  plants  appear,  which  will  greatly  encourage  their  free 
growth. 


JULY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN-.  461 


KIDNEY-BEANS. 

You  may  plant  kidney-beans  of  the  dwarf  kinds  any  time  this 
month;  the  refugee  is  the  best  for  this  time;  or,  in  order  to  have  a 
regular  succession,  some  may  be  planted  in  the  beginning,  middle, 
and  end  thereof.  The  running  kinds  will  also  succeed  well  if  planted 
in  the  early  part  of  the  month.  It  will,  however,  be  necessary  at 
this  time  to  water  the  drills,  or  lay  the  beans  to  soak  in  river  or  pond 
water  about  five  or  six  hours  previous  to  planting,  or  if  both  be  done, 
it  will  be  still  better. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

The  late  sown  cauliflowers  intended  for  winter  use  may  now  be 
planted  out  finally,  if  not  done  before. 

In  planting  this  crop,  it  would  be  of  essential  advantage  to  take 
opportunity  of  showery  or  moist  weather,  if  such  should  happen  in 
proper  time;  plant  them  in  rows  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder,  and 
the  same  distance  in  the  row ;  let  them  be  directly  watered,  and 
afterwards  at  times,  till  they  have  taken  good  root. 


SMALL  SALADING. 

Continue  to  sow  crops  of  small  salading  every  eight  or  ten  days, 
as  directed  in  the  former  months ;  but  these  must  now  be  sown  on 
shady  borders,  or  else  be  shaded  with  mats,  occasionally,  from  the 
mid-day  sun,  and  frequently  watered  both  before  and  after  the  plants 
appear  above  ground. 

CARROTS. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  you  may  sow  some  carrot  seed  to 
raise  young  roots  for  the  table  in  autumn  and  winter.  Choose  an 
open  situation  and  light  ground,  and  let  the  seed  be  sown  imme- 
diately while  the  earth  is  fresh  after  being  dug.  When  the  plants 
are  up  an  inch  or  two,  thin  them  to  five  or  six  inches  every  way. 

CELERY. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  plant  out  into  trenches  a  full  crop  of 
celery,  for  autumn  and  winter  use;  let  this  be  performed,  in  every 
respect,  as  directed  on  page  423,  which  see.  Seymour's  White  is 
extremely  valuable,  blanches  very  white,  and  is  by  most  people,  who 
have  had  the  opportunity  of  cultivating  it,  preferred  to  any  other. 

The  following  method  of  planting  out  celery  may  also  be  practised, 
which  for  the  ease  of  preserving  the  plants  in  winter  will  be  found 
extremely  convenient ;  besides,  a  greater  quantity  can  be  raised  on 
the  same  complement  of  land.  Lay  out  the  ground  into  four  feet 
wide  beds,  with  alleys  between  of  three  feet;  dig  the  beds  a  spade 
deep,  throwing  the  earth  upon  these  alleys;  when  done,  lay  four  or 
five  inches  of  good,  well-rotted  hot-bed  or  other  dung  all  over  the  bot- 


462  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JULY 

torn  of  the  beds,  dig  and  incorporate  it  with  the  loose  earth  remaining, 
and  cover  the  whole  with  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  earth 
from  the  alleys;  plant  four  rows  in  each  bed  at  equal  distances,  and 
eight  inches  apart  in  the  rows ;  after  which,  give  them  a  plentiful 
watering,  and  stick  down  small  branches  of  cedar,  or  of  any  kind  of 
evergreen  shrubs  between  the  rows,  to  shade  them  from  the  sun  till 
well  rooted,  when  the  branches  are  to  be  taken  away.  The  plants 
must  be  kept  free  from  weeds  till  grown  of  a  sufficient  size  for  earth- 
ing, which  is  done  with  the  assistance  of  boards,  by  laying  them  along 
the  rows  to  support  the  leaves  while  you  are  putting  in  the  earth 
from  the  alleys,  and  removing  them  as  you  progress  in  the  business. 
For  the  method  of  preserving  the  plants  in  winter  see  the  Kitchen 
Garden  in  November. 

Land  or  earth  up  your  early  crops  of  celery,  first  breaking  the  earth 
fine  with  the  spade,  and  then  laying  it  up  neatly  to  both  sides,  al- 
ways preserving  the  tops  and  hearts  of  the  plants  free,  that  they  may 
continue  in  growth  without  any  interruption;  repeat  this  earthing  at 
intervals  of  eight  or  ten  days,  till  the  plants  are  sufficiently  blanched 
and  of  proper  size  for  use. 

RUTA  BAGA,  OR  SWEDISH  TURNIP. 

This  variety  of  turnip  is  the  most  important  of  all,  and  deserves 
to  be  ranked  in  the  first  class  of  vegetable  productions.  Its  quantity 
of  produce,  richness  of  flavor,  and  extreme  hardiness,  render  it  of 
great  importance  and  give  it  a  pre-eminence  over  every  other  kind. 
The  best  time  for  sowing  is  from  the  twentieth  of  June  to  the 
twentieth  of  July,  according  to  the  season.  The  ground  should  be 
well  prepared  and  manure  scattered  pretty  thickly  over  it ;  which 
done,  it  should  be  laid  off  in  ridges  about  three  feet  apart,  two  fur- 
rows together,  with  the  plough,  and  the  seed  sown  on  the  top.  By 
this  method  you  give  a  double  portion  of  the  manure  for  each  row  of 
turnips,  and  a  better  opportunity  of  attending  to  their  after  culture. 
When  they  are  of  sufficient  growth  thin  them  to  the  distance  of 
twelve  inches  apart  in  the  row;  they  will  continue  growing  and  in- 
creasing in  size  till  late  in  autumn,  when,  if  not  used  before,  they 
may  be  taken  up  and  preserved  through  the  winter,  in  like  manner 
as  other  turnips  (or  permitted  to  remain  in  the  ground),  than  which 
they  are  more  hardy,  will  keep  better,  and  be  as  fresh  in  May  as  at 
Christmas. 

The  flesh  of  the  root  is  yellow,  sweet,  and  firm,  being  nearly  twice 
as  heavy  as  a  common  turnip  of  the  same  size;  when  dressed  for  the 
table  it  is  by  most  people  preferred  to  the  garden  turnip,  and  as  well 
as  the  tops  is  peculiarly  grateful  to  most  sorts  of  cattle.  Skirving's 
improved  is  one  of  the  best. 

LETTUCES. 

Thin  and  transplant  such  lettuces  as  were  sown  last  month,  water 
them  immediately  after,  and  repeat  it  as  often  as  necessary  till  the 
plants  are  well  rooted. 


JULY]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  463 

Sow  more  lettuce  seed  in  the  beginning,  middle,  and  particularly 
in  the  last  week  of  the  month,  in  order  to  have  a  regular  and  con- 
stant supply  for  the  table.  The  white  Silesia  is  the  best  to  sow  at 
this  time,  as  it  is  not  injured  by  the  extreme  heat. 

SPINAGE. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month  a  good  crop  of  spinage  may  be 
sown  for  autumn' use;  it  will  not  then  be  so  subject  to  run  to  seed  as 
in  the  former  months.  The  round  seeded  kind  is  always  preferable 
for  summer  and  autumn  service. 


RADISHES. 

Radishes  of  every  kind  may  be  sown  in  the  last  week  of  this 
mouth  with  a  good  prospect  of  success ;  but  particularly  the  white 
and  black  Spanish,  or  winter  sorts,  of  which  you  ought  to  sow  a  full 
crop  for  autumn  use. 

Sow,  likewise,  some  of  the  short-top,  salmon,  and  turnip-rooted 
radishes ;  should  the  season  prove  any  way  moist,  they  will  succeed 
tolerably  well.  Let  all  these  kinds  be  now  sown  on  moist  loamy 
ground. 

SOW   CABBAGE   SEED. 

Sow  some  of  the  early  York,  Battersea,  and  sugar  loaf  kinds  of 
cabbage  for  a  supply  of  young  greens  during  the  autumn;  the 
hearts  of  these  are  very  delicious  when  grown  to  a  tolerable  size, 
and  are,  by  many,  very  much  admired;  when  used  in  that  state  they 
are  called  coleworts,  having  totally  superseded  the  true  colewort, 
which  was  formerly  cultivated  for  boiled  salads.  Some  savoy  seed 
may  also  be  sown  at  this  time  for  a  late  winter  crop. 

J*VjJ  ARTICHOKES. 

If  you  desire  to  have  large  artichokes  you  must,  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month,  if  not  done  in  June,  in  order  to  encourage  the  main 
head,  cut  of  all  the  suckers  or  small  heads  which  are  produced  from 
the  sides  of  the  stems,  and  these  may  now  be  dressed  for  the  table. 

The  maturity  of  a  full  grown  artichoke  is  apparent  by  the  open- 
ing of  the  scales ;  and  it  should  always  be  cut  off  before  the  flower 
appears  in  the  centre. 

As  soon  as  the  head  or  heads  are  collected  from  any  stem  let  it  be 
immediately  cut  down  close  to  the  ground.  This  practice  is  too  often 
disregarded,  but  such  neglect  is  utterly  wrong;  for  the  stems,  if 
permitted  to  remain,  would  greatly  impoverish  the  roots,  and  injure 
them  much  more  than  is  generally  imagined. 

Where  cardoons  are  in  request,  and  they  were  not  planted  out  last 
month,  it  should  be  done  in  the  first  week  of  this,  as  directed  on 
page  427.  • 


464  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JULY 


COLLECTING   SEEDS. 

Collect  all  kinds  of  seeds  that  come  to  good  maturity,  cutting  off 
or  pulling  up  the  stems  with  the  seed  thereon  as  they  ripen;  and 
spread  them  in  some  airy  place  where  they  can  receive  no  wet,  in 
order  that  the  seeds  may  dry  and  harden  gradually;  observing  to 
turn  them  now  and  then,  and  not  to  lay  such  a  quantity  together  as 
might  bring  on  a  fermentation  and  hazard  the  loss  of  the  whole. 
When  they  are  sufficiently  dry,  beat  out  and  clean  the  seeds,  and 
put  them  by  in  boxes  or  bags  till  wanted. 

LEEKS. 

You  may  still  continue  to  transplant  leeks,  as  directed  on  page 
424 ;  by  this  method  they  will  grow  to  a  great  size,  and  be  much 
better  for  use  than  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed-beds. 


HERBS. 

Gather  herbs  for  drying  and  distilling  as  they  come  into  flower, 
and  dry  them  in  the  shade. 

Sage,  hyssop,  thyme,  lavender,  winter  savory,  and  many  other 
kinds  may  still  be  propagated  by  slips  of  the  present  year's  growth, 
giving  them  shade  and  occasional  waterings  till  rooted.  Plant  them 
two-thirds  of  their  length  into  the  earth. 

Gather  chamomile,  marigold,  and  such  other  flowers  as  may  be 
wanted,  and  that  are  now  in  bloom ;  spread  the  flowers  in  the  shade 
till  sufficiently  dry,  and  then  put  them  up  in  paper  bags,  &c. 

SOWING  PEAS. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month,  sow  a  crop  of  the  early  frame : 
Charleston,  or  golden  hotspur  peas.  Water  the  drills;  and  let  the 
peas  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six  hours  previous  to  sowing. 
Should  the  season  prove  moist,  you  will  have  a  tolerable  crop  from 
these  early  in  September. 

EGG-PLANT,  RED   PEPPERS,  AND -TOMATOES. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  plant  out  suf- 
ficient crops  of  egg-plants,  red  peppers,  and  tomatoes,  as  directed 
last  month;  if  the  weather  be  unfavorable,  give  them  shade  and 
water  till  well  taken  with  the  ground,  but  on  no  account  delay  the 
final  planting  of  the  egg-plants  longer;  the  red  peppers  may  be  trans- 
planted any  time  in  the  month,  but  the  earlier  the  better. 

ORDINARY  WORK. 

• 

Diligently  destroy  weeds  before  they  seed  in  every  part  of  the 
ground,  and  immediately  carry  them  away  out  of  the  garden. 


JULY]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  465 

Give  water  to  such  plants  and  crops  as  require  it,  but  let  this  be 
done  always  in  an  evening,  that  it  may  have  time  to  soak  down  to 
the  roots  before  the  sun  appears  to  exhale  it. 

Earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  cabbages,  and  all  other  plants 
of  that  tribe;  likewise  okra,  peas,  kidney  beans,  &c.;  this  will  greatly 
refresh  them,  and  protect  their  roots  and  fibres  from  the  powerful 
heat  of  the  sun. 

Pull  up  the  stalks  of  beans,  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  and  the  haulin 
of  peas  and  other  plants  which  have  done  bearing,  that  the  ground 
may  be  clear,  for  if  these  are  suffered  to  remain,  they  will  harbor 
vermin  to  the  injury  of  the  adjoining  crops. 


THE    FRUIT   GARDEN. 


WALL  AND   ESPALIER   TREES. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month,  you  must  look  carefully  over 
your  wall  and  espalier  tress,  rubbing  off  all  fore-right  shoots,  and 
training  in  all  such  regular  growths  as  are  designed  to  remain  close 
to  the  wall  or  espalier,  at  regular  distances,  and  in  their  due  position. 
Never  pull  off  any  leaves,  nor  thin  the  branches,  in  order  to  expose 
the  fruit  to  the  sun,  as  the  sudden  exposure  would  be  extremely 
injurious  to  them;  by  it  their  skins  would  be  hardened  and  contracted, 
and  their  growth  greatly  retarded.  Though  I  am  not  fond  of  using 
the  knife  too  freely  at  this  season,  which  is  a  very  common  and  per- 
nicious practice,  yet  it  will  be  proper  to  cut  out  irregular  and  dis- 
orderly shoots,  but  this  must  be  done  judiciously,  and  an  abundant 
supply  of  young  wood  left  for  the  winter  pruning,  particularly  on 
the  peaches,  nectarines,  figs,  apricots,  and  morella-cherries,  which 
generally  bear  their  fruit  on  the  preceding  year's  wood ;  the  apricot 
bears  on  fruiting-spurs  likewise. 

Pick  off  all  punctured  and  decaying  fruit,  and  give  them  to  the 
hogs ;  also  such  as  have  fallen  in  that  state  from  the  trees ;  for  the 
worms  that  are  in  these  fruit,  which  have  been  the  cause  of  their 
decline,  will  soon  arrive  at  their  fly  or  winged  state,  and  attack  the 
remaining  fruit. 

Look  carefully  over  the  fruit-trees  which  have  been  grafted  last 
spring,  or  budded  in  the  former  season,  and  suffer  no  shoots  from 
the  stocks  to  remain,  for  these  will  rob  the  grafts  of  their  nourish- 
ment. 

BUDDING   OR   INOCULATING. 

Budding  may  be  performed  on  some  kinds  of  fruit-trees  about  the 
middle  of  this  month,  but  as  that  subject  is  fully  treated  of  in  the 
nursery  department,  I  refer  you  thereto  for  information. 

30 


466  THE  ORCHARD. — THE  VINEYARD.  [JULY 


DESTROY  WASPS,  ETC. 

Hang  up  glass  phials  filled  with  honey  or  sugar  water  in  different 
parts  among  the  wall,  espalier,  and  standard  fruit-trees,  in  order  to 
destroy  wasps,  ants,  &c.,  which  would  otherwise  infest  and  devour 
the  choice  fruit;  by  the  sweetness  of  the  water,  they  are  tempted 
into  the  phials,  and  frequently  drowned ;  but  these  should  be  hung 
before  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  for  then  the  insects  would  be  mueh 
sooner  tempted  to  the  water  than  after  having  tasted  the  fruit :  where 
a  sufficient  number  of  glasses  are  placed  in  time,  properly  attended 
to,  and  the  water  occasionally  renewed,  very  little  damage  is  done  by 
these  insects. 

CLEAN  THE  BORDERS,  ETC. 

Hoe  and  clean  the  ground  about  your  espalier  and  wall  trees,  for 
if  weeds  are  permitted  to  grow  at  this  season,  they  will  rob  the  trees 
of  a  great  portion  of  their  nourishment ;  cut  off  all  suckers  which 
arise  from  the  roots  of  the  trees  as  they  are  produced,  for  these  are 
robbers,  and  would  injure  them  much  if  suffered  to  remain. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

Little  remains  to  be  done  during  this  month  in  the  orchard,  but  to 
feast  on  its  delicious  productions :  however,  it  will  be  very  proper  to 
pick  and  carry  away  all  decayed  and  fallen  fruit,  for  the  reasons  as- 
signed in  the  fruit  garden  for  this  month.  Should  any  of  the  trees 
show  canker  or  much  gum,  you  may  now  cut  out  the  decayed  part 
clean  to  the  fresh  wood,  and  give  it  a  dressing  of  the  medicated  tar 
prescribed  on  page  58,  giving  this  medication  a  due  consistence  as 
there  directed,  to  prevent  its  melting  away  by  the  heat  of  the  wea- 
ther; or  you  may  apply  Mr.  Forsyth's  composition,  for  which  see 
page  235. 

Where  it  can  be  done  without  injury,  it  would  be  of  use  to  turn 
pigs  into  the  orchard  at  this  season  to  eat  up  the  fallen,  decayed 
fruit,  and,  consequently,  to  destroy  the  numerous  brood  of  insects 
contained  therein. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

In  the  middle  States  the  grapes  are  generally  set  or  formed  about 
the  first  week  of  this  month  ;  when  all  the  loose  hanging  shoots  are 
to  be  neatly  tied  up  to  the  stakes,  and  the  useless  weak  growths, 
as  well  as  the  suckers  arising  from  the  roots  and  lower  parts  of  the 


JULY]  THE  NURSERY.  467 

stems,  cleared  or  cut  away;  but  by  no  means  divest  any  of  the 
branches  of  their  leaves,  as  some  unskilful  persons  too  often*  prac- 
tise ;  for  these  are  absolutely  necessary  to  the  growth  and  protection 
of  the  fruit :  the  small  side  shoots  growing  on  the  main  branches 
from  the  axillas  of  the  leaves,  should,  if  time  permits,  be  nipped  off 
as  they  are  produced,  which  will  tend  considerably  to  strengthen  the 
principal  shoots. 

When  the  vines  are  suffered  for  some  time  to  hang  loose,  and  trail 
about  upon  the  ground,  all  their  leaves  grow  upward ;  which,  on  the 
shoots  being  afterwards  bound  in  an  upright  position  to  the  stakes, 
are  turned  upside  down ;  and  until  these  leaves  resume  their  natural 
position,  which  they  are  commonly  eight  or  ten  days  in  effecting,  the 
fruit  is  at  a  stand,  and  consequently  loses  the  advantage  of  that 
length  of  time  in  the  principal  season  of  its  growth. 

The  -ground  should  be  kept  constantly  free  from  weeds,  either  by 
means  of  the  plough  and  harrow  or  by  the  hoe ;  for  where  there  are 
other  plants  suffered  to  grow,  they  not  only  rob  the  roots  of  the  vines 
of  their  nourishment,  but  also  by  perspiring,  cause  a  damp  in  the  air, 
and  prevent  the  sun  and  wind  from  exhaling  and  carrying  away  the 
vapors  arising  from  the  earth,  whereby  the  fruit  would  be  filled  with 
crude  nourishment,  and  rendered  of  much  less  value  for  making  good 
wine,  as  well  as  unpalatable. 

Continue  to  nip  out  the  renewed  extremities  of  the  fruit-bearing 
shoots,  to  check  the  too  great  luxuriancy  of  their  growth,  and  to  af- 
ford the  bunches  of  grapes  a  greater  portion  of  nourishment ;  but 
this  ought  not  to  be  done  too  close  to  the  fruit,  as  it  would  check 
the  free  ascent  of  the  juices  into  those  branches,  by  depriving  them 
of  the  means  of  discharging  such  a  portion  thereof  as  is  not  con- 
vertible into  wood  or  fruit :  and  moreover,  though  the  fruit  might  by 
this  means  be  swelled  to  a  greater  size,  it  would  be  more  replete 
with  watery  particles,  and  less  with  that  refined  saccharine  juice  so 
pleasing  to  the  palate,  and  so  necessary  for  the  making  of  good  wine. 

Such  shoots  as  are  intended  to  be  cut  down  in  the  pruning  season, 
for  next  year's  fruiting,  are  by  no  means  to  be  topped,  but  should  be 
suffered  to  grow  at  full  length,  taking  care  to  keep  them  constantly 
divested  of  any  side  branches,  which  ought  always  to  be  rubbed  off 
as  they  appear.  Were  those  to  be  topped  at  this  season,  it  would 
force  out  at  an  untimely  period,  many  of  the  flower-buds  which  na- 
ture had  designed  for  the  ensuing  year,  and,  consequently,  at  that 
time  render  the  vines  barren  and  unproductive. 


THE   NURSERY. 


BUDDING   OR   INOCULATING. 


The  budding  or  inoculating  of  cherries  and  plums,  and  all  such 
other  trees  and  shrubs  as  are  subject  to  become  bark-bound  in  autumn, 
is  generally  commenced  in  the  middle  States  about  the  fifteenth  of 


468  THE  NURSERY.  [JULY 

this  month,  earlier  or  later,  according  to  the  season  or  the  quantity 
to  be  budded ;  these  and  others  of  the  like  nature  should  now  be 
attended  to,  as  they  seldom  work  freely  after  the  twenty-fifth  of  July. 
But  this  you  may  always  easily  know  by  trying  the  buds,  and  when 
they  readily  part  from  the  wood,  and  also  the  bark  of  the  stock  rises 
or  separates  freely,  then  the  work  may  be  done. 

But  let  it  be  particularly  remarked,  that  every  kind  of  tree  or 
shrub  that  makes  new  autumn  shoots,  or  that  continues  in  a  free 
growth,  or  flow  of  sap,  should  be  budded  either  in  August  or  before 
the  twentieth  of  September,  according  as  each  kind  is  early  or  late 
in  ripening  its  wood,  that  is,  to  bud  each  sort  before  it  becomes  bark- 
bound  ;  and  likewise  observe  that  all  those  kinds  which  are  likely 
to  become  bark-bound  early  in  autumn  ought  to  be  budded  in  this 
month,  while  the  juice  flows  freely  in  the  stocks  and  buds. 

If  trees  or  shrubs  are  inoculated  in  the  early  part  of  this  month, 
whose  nature  it  is  to  take  a  second  growth  in  autumn,  the  buds  will 
then  start,  and  the  shoots  produced  therefrom  not  having  a  sufficient 
length  of  season  to  ripen  the  wood,  will  either  be  destroyed  the  en- 
suing winter,  or  so  much  injured  as  never  to  make  good  trees;  there- 
fore, budding  ought  to  be  performed  on  the  respective  kinds  at  such 
periods  as  there  will  be  no  hazard  of  their  growing  before  the  ensu- 
ing spring,  when  they  will  have  the  advantage  of  the  whole  season 
for  perfecting  their  wood,  and  of  acquiring  a  sufficient  strength  and 
texture  before  winter. 

Apricots,  if  worked  on  plum  stocks,  or  on  those  of  its  own  kind, 
should  be  budded  in  this  month,  but  if  on  peach  or  almond,  August 
will  be  a  preferable  period. 

Pears  may,  likewise,  be  inoculated  late  in  this  month,  but  as  to 
peaches,  nectarines,  almonds,  and  apples,  if  done  now,  the  inserted 
buds  would  shoot  in  the  course  of  the  present  season,  and  consequently 
be  of  little  value. 

The  stocks  of  cherries,  plums  and  pears  that  were  budded  last 
summer,  or  grafted  in  spring,  and  that  have  miscarried,  may  now 
be  inoculated  with  the  same  kinds  of  fruit,  for  those  will  succeed 
either  by  grafting  or  budding. 

Budding  generally  succeeds  best  when  performed  in  cloudy  weather, 
or  in  the  morning  or  evening ;  for  the  great  power  of  the  mid-day 
sun  is  apt  to  dry  and  shrivel  the  cuttings  and  buds,  and  prevent  the 
free  union  that  might  be  expected  immediately  to  take  place  in  a  favor- 
able season;  at  all  events  let  the  operation  be  performed  on  the  north 
side  of  the  stocks,  which  will  give  the  buds  every  possible  advantage 
of  the  sun. 

In  performing  this  work  it  will  be  necessary  to  observe  that  where 
•trees  are  intended  for  walls,  espaliers,  or  to  be  trained  as  dwarf  stand- 
ards, the  buds  must  be.  inserted  low  in  the  stocks,  that  is,  at  the 
height  of  five  or  six  inches  from  the  ground;  but  if  intended  for  tall 
standards,  the  stocks  may  be  worked  at  the  height  of  three,  four, 
five,  or  even  six  feet;  or,  the  low  inserted  buds  may  be  trained  up 
on  single  stems  to  a  proper  height  for  standards,  or  half  standards, 
and  then  be  headed  for  the  production  of  lateral  branches. 

Where  there  are  wall  or  espalier  trees  that  do  not  produce  fruit  of 


JULY]  THE  NURSERY.  469 

approved  kinds,  such  may  be  budded  with  any  favorite  sorts ;  this 
may  be  performed  either  upon  strong  shoots  of  the  present  year,  or 
on  clean  young  branches  of  two  years'  growth  or  more ;  several  buds 
may  be  inserted  in  each  tree,  in  different  parts,  by  which  means  they 
will  be  furnished  with  a  sufficiency  of  new  wood  of  the  desired  kinds ; 
and  in  two  or  three  years  they  will  bear  abundantly. 

Should  it  be  found  necessary  to  immerse  the  cuttings  from  which 
you  take  your  buds  in  water,  place  therein  only  about  an  inch  of 
their  lower  ends ;  the  upper  parts  will  be  more  congenially  refreshed 
by  that  means  than  if  the  cuttings  were  entirely  covered ;  and,  more- 
over, the  buds  which  are  soaked  for  any  considerable  time  in  water 
will  be  so  saturated  with  moisture  as  to  prevent  their  imbibing  the 
more  congenial  sap  of  the  stocks,  so  that  they  often  miscarry.  For 
the  proper  stocks  to  work  the  various  kinds  upon  see  page  259,  &c. 

When  the  stocks  are  from  about  half  an  inch,  or  a  little  less,  to 
an  inch  or  more  in  diameter  in  the  places  where  the  buds  are  to  be 
inserted,  they  are  then  of  a  proper  size  for  working. 

In  order  to  perform  the  operation  you  must  be  provided  with  a 
neat  sharp  budding-knife,  having  a  flat  thin  haft  to  open  the  bark  of 
the  stock  for  the  admission  of  the  bud,  and,  likewise,  with  a  quantity 
of  new  bass-strings,  which  are  certainly  the  best  of  all  bandages,  or  if 
such  cannot  be  obtained,  some  soft  woollen  yarn  to  tie  round  it  when 
inserted. 

Observe  that  the  head  of  the  stock  is  not  to  be  cut  off  as  in  graft- 
ing; that  the  bud  is  to  be  inserted  into  the  side,  and  the  head 
suffered  to  remain  until  the  spring  following,  when  it  is  to  be  cut  qff 
above  the  bud,  as  directed  on  page  269. 

METHODS   OP   BUDDING   OR   INOCULATING. 

1.  Having  your  cuttings,  knife,  and  bandages  ready,  fix  upon  a 
smooth  part  on  the  side  of  the  stock  at  whatever  height  you  intend 
to  bud  it;  with  your  knife  make  a  horizontal  cut  across  the  bark  of 
the  stock  quite  through  to  the  firm  wood ;  then  from  the  middle  of 
this  cut  make  a  slit  downwards,  perpendiculary,  about  an  inch  and 
a  half  long,  going  also  quite  through  to  the  wood,  so  that  the  two 
cuts  together  may  be  in  the  form  of  the  letter  T;  then  with  the 
point  of  your  knife  raise  the  bark  a  little  at  the  angles  formed  by 
the  two  cuts,  in  order  to  make  room  for  the  flat  part  of  the  haft  to 
enter  and  raise  the  bark. 

This  done,  proceed  with  all  expedition  to  take  off  a  bud,  having 
immediately  previous  to  the  commencement  cut  off  all  the  leaves, 
leaving  about  an  inch  of  the  footstalk  to  each  bud,  and  holding  the 
cutting  in  one  hand,  with  the  thickest  end  outward;  then  enter  the 
knife  about  half  an  inch,  or  rather  more,  below  a  bud,  cutting  nearly 
half  way  into  the  wood  of  the  shoot,  continuing  it  with  one  clean 
slanting  cut  about  as  much  more  above  the  bud,  so  deep  as  to  take 
off  part  of  the  wood  along  with  it,  the  whole  from  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  to  an  inch  and  a  half  long ;  directly  take  out  the  woody  part* 
remaining  in  the  bud,  which  is  easily  done  by  placing  the  point  of 
the  knife  between  the  bark  and  wood,  at  either  end,  but  the  upper 


470  THE  NURSERY.  [JULY 

is  the  more  preferable,  and  with  the  assistance  of  the  thumb,  pull 
off  the  wood  from  the  bark,  which  ought,  if  in  good  condition,  to  part 
freely;  then  quickly  examine  the  inside,  to  see  if  the  root  of  the  bud 
be  left,  and  if  there  appears  a  small  hole,  the  rudiment  of  the  young 
tree  is  gone  with  the  wood,  the  bud  is  rendered  useless,  and  another 
must  be  prepared;  but  if  there  be  no  hole,  the  bud  is  good;  then  place 
the  footstalk  or  back  part  of  the  bud  between  your  lips,  and  with  the 
flat  haft  of  the  knife,  separate  the  bark  from  the  stock  on  each  side 
of  the  perpendicular  cut,  clear  to  the  wood  for  the  admission  of  the 
bud,  which,  directly  slip  down  close  between  the  wood  and  bark,  till 
the  whole  is  inserted  to  within  the  eighth  of  an  inch ;  let  this  part 
be  cut  through  into  the  first  transverse  incision  made  in  the  stalk, 
and  the  bud  will  fall  neatly  into  its  place ;  then  draw  the  bud  up 
gently  so  as  to  join  the  upper  or  cut  end  of  it  to  the  bark  of  the 
stalk,  where  it  will  most  generally  first  unite. 

Let  the  parts  be  then  bound  with  a  ligature  of  bass,  previously 
immersed  in  water  to  render  it  pliable  and  tough,  or,  in  want  of  this, 
with  woollen  yarn ;  beginning  below  the  bottom  of  the  perpendicular 
slit,  and  proceeding  upwards  close  around  every  part,  except  over  the 
eye  or  bud,  which  is  to  be  carefully  preserved,  and  continue  it  a  little 
above  the  horizontal  cut,  not  binding  it  too  tight,  but  just  sufficient 
to  keep  the  parts  close,  exclude  the  air,  sun,  and  wet,  and  thereby  to 
promote  the  junction  of -the  stalk  and  bud;  finish  by  making  the 
ligature  fast. 

2.  Although  it  is  universally  recommended  by  every  author  who 
has  written  on  the  art  of  gardening  to  fake  the  woody  part  out  of 
the  bud  before  its  insertion  into  the  stalk,  as  above  directed,  I  find 
such  practice  by  no  means  necessary;  for  if  the  bud  be  taken  off  with 
a  less  portion  of  wood  than  in  the  former  method,  and  immediately 
inserted  as  above  directed,  it  will  succeed  full  as  well,  if  not  better ; 
and  as  to  expedition,  there  is  no  comparison ;  certainly  double  the 
number  can  be  inserted  in  the  same  period  of  time  by  this  method 
as  by  the  former.  It  will  be  found  particularly  convenient  for  the 
budding  of  lemons  and  oranges,  and  may  also  be  practised  at  periods 
in  which  the  first  method  would  be  totally  unsuccessful,  that  is,  when 
the  buds  are  not  sufficiently  ripe  to  exist  without  the  young  wood,  or 
too  much  so  for  the  bark  to  separate  freely.  This  method  may  be 
practised,  when  desired,  at  a  much  earlier  period  than  the  former, 
and  also  as  late  in  the  season  as  the  bark  of  the  stalk  will  rise  freely 
for  the  admission  of  the  bud. 

In  three  weeks  or  a  month  after  inoculation,  you  will  see  which  of 
them  have  taken,  by  their  fresh  and  plump  appearance,  and  at  that 
time  you  should  loosen  the  bandages,  for  if  kept  on  too  long  they 
would  pinch  the  stalks,  and  greatly  injure,  if  not  destroy,  the  buds. 
Those  that  appear  shrivelled,  black,  or  decayed,  are  good  for  nothing. 

In  this  dormant  state  the  buds  should  remain  till  the  March  fol- 
lowing, when  the  stalks  are  to  be  headed  down,  as  directed  in  the 
tnursery  for  that  month. 

Note.  The  cuttings  should  not  be  taken  off  the  trees  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  day,  if  the  weather  be  hot  and  dry,  for  at  such  times  they 
will  perspire  so  fast  as  soon  to  leave  the  buds  destitute  of  moisture ; 


JULY]  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN.  471 

but  if  you  are  obliged  to  fetch  them  from  some  distance,  as  it  often 
happens,  you  should  be  provided  with  a  tin  case  about  twelve  inches 
long,  and  a  cover  to  the  top,  which  must  have  five  or  six  holes ;  in 
this  case  you  should  put  as  much  water  as  will  fill  it  about  two  inches 
high,  and  place  your  cuttings  therein  in  an  upright  position,  so  that 
the  parts  which  were  cut  from  the  tree  may  be  set  in  the  water,  and 
then  fasten  down  the  cover  to  keep  out  the  air;  the  holes  in  the  cover 
will  be  sufficient  to  let  the  perspiration  of  these  branches  pass  off, 
which,  if  pent  in,  would  be  very  hurtful  to  them }  you  must  also  be 
careful  to  carry  it  upright,  that  the  water  may  not  reach  to  the  buds, 
which  would  so  saturate  them  as  to  deprive  them  of  any  attractive 
force  to  imbibe  the  sap  of  the  stalk. 

INOCULATE  AND  LAY  CURIOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

Agreeably  to  the  preceding  directions  and  observations,  inoculate 
roses,  jasmines,  and  such  other  kinds  as  you  desire  to  propagate  in 
that  way.  The  moss  rose  may,  in  particular,  be  increased  by  this 
means,  as  it  is  not  very  free  in  producing  suckers;  this  may  be 
budded  on  stalks  of  any  kinds  of  common  roses  that  have  been  either 
raised  from  seed  or  suckers. 

The  proper  stalk  to  bud  any  of  the  more  curious  kinds  of  jasmines 
on,  is  that  of  the  common  white  jasmine. 

Continue  also  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs 
by  layers  and  cuttings,  as  directed  last  month. 

ORDINARY  ATTENDANCE. 

Weeding,  shading,  and  watering,  must  now  be  particularly  attended 
to  as  directed  last  month ;  without  which,  much  injury  will  be  sus- 
tained, especially  by  the  seedlings,  layers,  and  late  transplanted  trees 
and  shrubs. 

You  should  continue  to  train  your  evergreens  for  the  purposes  they 
are  designed ;  and  when  any  of  your  forest-trees  shoot  too  vigorously 
near  the  roots,  those  branches  may  be  pruned  off,  to  encourage  their 
heads. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTS. 

Take  up  the  bulbs  of  such  late  flowers  as  were  not  sufficiently  ripe 
nor  their  leaves  decayed  last  month,  as  ornithogalums,  bulbous  irises, 
martagon,  and  other  lilies ;  transplant  the  roots  of  fritillaries,  crown 
imperials,  dens  canis,  and  such  other  bulbous  and  tuberous-rooted 
flowers  as  do  not  endure  to  be  kept  long  out  of  ground ;  and  this 
being  the  season  in  which  their  roots  are  not  in  action,  is  the  most 
proper  time  for  transplanting  them,  before  they  put  forth  new  fibres ; 
after  which  it  would  be  very  improper  to  remove  them. 


4T2  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JULY 


ANNUAL  FLOWERS. 

You  may  still  transplant  any  of  the  late  sown  balsam?,  cock's- 
combs,  ainaranthuses,  China-asters,  &c.,  into  the  border  or  flower-beds 
where  wanted,  taking  them  up  with  balls,  or  with  as  much  earth  as 
possible  about  their  roots,  and  giving  them  a  good  watering  when 
planted,  which  is  to  be  occasionally  repeated  till  they  are  well  rooted; 
if  some  shade  could  be  afforded  them  for  a  few  days,  it  would  the 
better  insure  their  success. 

CARNATIONS. 

The  choice  carnations  now  in  flower  should  be  taken  care  of  and 
assisted  in  their  blowing,  as  directed  last  month ;  you  may  likewise 
assist  those  of  inferior  qualities  and  that  have  a  tendency  to  burst, 
by  splitting  the  pod  or  calyx  a  little  way  at  top,  on  the  opposite  side 
to  where  it  shows  an  inclination  to  burst  in  two  or  three  different 
places,  so  as  to  promote  the  spreading  of  the  flower  regularly  each 
way.  This  should  be  done  just  as  the  flower  begins  to  break  the 
pod  with  a  pair  of  small,  narrow  pointed  scissors,  or  with  a  sharp 
pointed  knife,  taking  care  not  to  cut  the  calyx  too  deep,  but  rather 
to  open  it  a  little  at  each  place,  and  to  leave  as  much  of  the  bottom 
of  the  cup  entire  as  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  petals  or  flower- 
leaves  regularly  together. 

Some  florists  take  great  pains  in  the  opening  of  the  flowers  to 
assist  nature  in  spreading  and  displaying  the  petals,  so  as  to  enlarge 
the  circumference  and  dispose  the  flower-leaves  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  show  the  stripes  and  variegations  to  the  best  possible  advantage, 
and  for  this  purpose  make  use  of  a  small  pair  of  wire  nippers,  the 
points  of  which  are  flattened  and  bound  around  with  silk  or  thread 
to  prevent  injury.  With  these  they  extract  such  of  the  petals  as  do 
not  please,  and  display  the  others  so  as  to  suit  their  fancy. 

Continue  to  propagate  your  choice  carnations  and  pinks  by  layers 
and  pipings,  as  directed  on  page  448,  for  the  performance  of  which, 
the  early  part  of  this  month  is  a  very  practicable  time.  Give  the 
necessary  shade  and  water  to  the  plants  now  in  flower,  and  see  that 
those  layers  which  were  laid  last  month  are  kept  sufficiently  moist 
to  promote  their  free  rooting. 

When  the  layers  are  properly  rooted,  which  will  be  the  case  with 
most  sorts  in  a  month  after  laying — -provided  due  care  be  taken  to 
keep  them  regularly  moist,  and  to  shade  them  from  the  heat  of  the 
meridian  sun — they  are  then  to  be  taken  off  from  the  old  plant  with 
about  half  an  inch  of  the  stalk  which  connects  them  to  it,  and  be 
immediately  planted  in  small  pots,  one,  two,  three,  or  four  in  each. 
The  pots  should  be  filled  with  the  compost  recommended  on  page  309, 
previously  adding  thereto  a  little  more  loam  and  coarse  sand,  and 
when  the  plants  are  neatly  planted  therein,  the  pots  should  be  buried 
to  their  rims  in  a  convenient  airy  place,  and  arches  of  hoops  placed 
over  the  bed  on  which  to  lay  mats  to  shade  the  plants  from  the  sun 
till  well  rooted  and  growing  freely ;  and  these  mats  are  to  be  after- 


JULY]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  473 

wards  laid  on  occasionally  as  necessity  may  require,  to  protect  the 
plants  from  too  powerful  sunshine  or  heavy  torrents  of  rain,  which 
are  both  injurious  to  them.* 

Here  they  are  to  remain  till  November,  when  they  must  be  re- 
moved into  their  winter  repository,  as  then  directed;  during  this 
time  they  must  have  a  sufficiency  of  water  as  often  as  it  may  appear 
necessary,  to  keep  them  in  a  constant  growing  state  and  good  health. 

The  layers  of  the  common  kinds  of  carnations  should,  when  taken 
off,  be  planted  in  beds  of  rich  earth,  in  rows  about  six  inches  asun- 
der, where  they  are  to  be  watered  and  shaded  until  well  taken  with 
the  ground,  and  growing.  They  may  remain  in  these  beds  till  Sep- 
tember, October,  or  March,  and  are  then  to  be  taken  up  with  balls 
of  earth  and  planted  where  intended  to  flower. 

PINKS. 

The  most  valuable  kinds  of  pinks  should  be  treated  in  every  re- 
spect as  directed  for  carnations. 

SENSITIVE  PLANTS. 

The  sensitive  plants  which  have  been  raised  in  hot-beds,  may 
about  the  first  of  this  month,  if  not  done  in  June,  be  brought  out 
into  the  open  air  and  placed  in  a  very  warm  situation,  for  they  de- 
light in  much  heat;  but  some  ought  to  be  kept  constantly  under 
glasses,  for,  when  fully  exposed  to  the  weather,  they  lose  much  of 
their  sensibility. 

The  species  I  particularly  allude  to,  is  the  Mimosa  pudica,  or 
humble  and  sensitive  plant. 

Those  plants  which  are  placed  in  the  greatest  warmth  in  winter, 
continue  vigorous,  and  retain  their  faculty  of  contracting  on  being 
touched ;  but  those  that  are  in  a  moderate  warmth  have  little  or  no 
motion. 

TRANSPLANTING  BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

If  not  done  in  June,  you  should  now  transplant  from  the  seed- 
beds the  various  kinds  of  perennial  and  biennial  seedling  flowering 
plants,  as  directed  on  page  452. 

AURICULAS  AND  POLYANTHUSES. 

Exame  your  auriculas  and  polyanthuses  ;  when  dead  leaves  at  any 
time  appear  upon  the  plants,  let  them  be  immediately  picked  off,  and 
suffer  no  weeds  to  grow  in  the  pots. 

Preserve  those  plants  carefully  from  the  mid-day  sun,  which  at 
this  season  would  destroy  them,  particularly  the  auriculas,  and  keep 
the  earth  in  the  pots  always  moderately  moist. 

*  Pot  culture  of  carnations  is  only  applicable  to  the  enthusiast.  They 
bloom  equally  well  in  the  open  ground,  where  they  are  grown  with  ordi- 
nary care. 


474  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JULY 

When  any  of  them  have  furnished  strong  offsets,  such  may  be 
taken  off  in  the  last  week  of  this  month,  and  planted  in  small  pots ; 
for  about  that  time  these  plants  begin  to  grow  afresh,  and  advantage 
ought  to  be  taken  of  that  critical  period.  The  offsets  will  require 
shade  and  water  till  newly  rooted  :  the  latter  must  be  sparingly  ad- 
ministered till  the  plants  take  and  are  in  a  growing  state,  before 
which  too  much  water  would  cause  the  roots  to  rot ;  but,  notwith- 
standing, the  earth  must  still  be  kept  a  little  moist. 

The  auricula  and  polyanthus  seedlings  that  were  sown  last  autumn 
or  early  in  spring,  if  having  grown  well  and  of  sufficient  size,  should 
in  the  last  week  of  this,  or  first  in  August,  be  transplanted  into  boxes 
or  pots,  as  directed  on  page  360,  and  placed  in  the  shade  to  grow  on 
till  the  middle  of  October,  when  they  may  be  rather  more  exposed 
to  the  sun,  and  early  in  November  remove  the  pots  or  boxes  into  a 
warm  situation,  to  remain  till  taken  into  their  winter  quarters. 

GRASS  AND  GRAVEL  WALKS. 

The  same  care  and  attention  must  now  be  paid  to  the  grass  and 
gravel  walks,  and  lawns,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months. 

BOX  EDGING. 

Such  box  edgings  as  were  not  clipped  in  June,  should  now  be 
dressed,  observing  the  same  directions  in  every  particular  as  given  on 
page  452. 

CLIP  HEDGES. 

Hedges  in  general,  of  every  kind,  should  be  clipped  in  the  early 
part  of  this  month ;  for  that  purpose,  advantage  ought  to  be  taken  of 
moist  or  cloudy  weather  to  do  the  work  in,  as  hedges  always  look 
better  after  being  clipped  in  wet  weather  than  in  dry. 

Another  dressing  of  the  same  kind  towards  the  latter  end  of  Sep- 
tember will  keep  them  in  a  neat  condition  the  year  round. 

ORDINARY  ATTENDANCE. 

The  principal  flower-borders,  beds,  &c.,  must  now  have  more  than 
ordinary  attention  paid  to  the  keeping  of  them  clean,  as  well  as  the 
shrubbery-clumps  and  other  similar  compartments.  Where  any  of 
the  flowering-shrubs  or  evergreens  have  grown  rude  or  disorderly,  let 
such  be  trimmed  or  pruned  into  neat  form  j  that  is,  if  any  have  pro- 
duced strong  and  rambling  shoots,  cut  out,  shorten,  or  reduce  them 
to  a  pleasing  regularity. 

Stake  and  tie  up  the  stems  of  such  flowering  plants  as  stand  in 
need  of  support,  to  prevent  their  being  borne  down  by  winds  or 
heavy  rains,  &c. 

Cut  down  the  stems  of  such  fibrous-rooted  plants  as  are  past  bloom, 
except  a  few  of  the  best,  where  the  seeds  are  wanted.  Those  have 
always  an  unpleasing  appearance,  and  ought  to  be  removed  as  soon 
as  possible ;  by  which  means  the  plants,  though  past  flowering,  will 
appear  more  lively  and  decent,  and  the  advancing  bloom  of  others 
will  show  to  greater  advantage. 


JULY] 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 


475 


LAYING  OUT  A  GARDEN. 

It  is  one  of  the  difficult  things  for  a  novice  to  arrange  a  small 
garden  so  as  to  produce  the  greatest  effect  in  a  moderate  space.  lu 
the  following  cuts,  the  house  is  supposed  to  be  pleasantly  situated  in 
a  village,  having  its  entrance  towards  the  public  road,  and  looking 
from  the  garden  side  on  a  level  country.  In  the  front  of  the  house 
a  garden  extends  itself  flanked  by  a  shrubbery  on  both  sides,  and 
bounded  by  a  piece  of  water.  On  the  right  is  the  green-house,  &c., 
inconsiderately  placed  so  close  to  the  garden  as  to  make  it  impossible 
to  conceal  it  without  too  much  encroaching  on  the  ground.  Further 
to  the  right  stands  the  coach-house,  and  stables,  &c.,  and  beyond 
these  a  large  kitchen-garden. 


Fig.  53. 


ORIGINAL  PLAN. 


IMPROVED  PLAN. 


a.  Pond. 

6.  Mass  of  Water  Lily. 

c.  Large  Chinese  Arbor-vita). 

d.  Clump  on  turf  for  herba- 
ceous plants  and  small  flower- 
ing shrubs,   and  bordered  by 
clipped    evergreen    hedges    of 
Cotoneaster,  &c. 

e.  Beds  on  turf,  with  Jupiter 
in     centre,    flowering     plants 
round. 


/.  Irish  Yews. 

g.  Parterre  on  turf. 

1.  Blue  with  white  mar- 

gin. 

2.  Scarlet. 

3.  Light  pink. 

4.  Brownish  orange. 

5.  Deep  violet  or  purple. 
h.  Statues  on  pedestals. 

i.  Fountain. 

j.  Seat  on  centre  line. 


SCALE     OF     TEE- 


ft.  Vases  on  pedestals. 
I.  House. 
T/i.  Porch. 
n.  Coach  ring. 
o.  p.  Alcoves. 
q.  Background  for  reserve, 

&c. 
r.  Border     for     creepers 

against  house. 
s.  Green-house. 
t.  Laundry. 


4?  6  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JULY 

The  great  faults  in  this  case  are  the  shutting  out  of  the  prospect, 
and  the  complete  exposure  of  all  the  walks,  as  though  they  were  the 
most  important  features  of  the  garden.  The  first  of  these  is  to  be 
rectified  by  cleaning  away  the  clumps  near  the  piece  of  water,  the 
second  by  destroying  the  centre  walk,  and  the  third  by  fringing  the 
broad  turf-plat  so  obtained  with  clumps  for  flowering  shrubs. 

In  the  new  arrangement  a  centre  will  be  obtained  upon  a  line  from 
the  fountain,  at  right  angles  with  the  building ;  and  to  give  a  balance 
to  the  basis  of  operations,  a  large  projecting  mass  of  close-clipped 
evergreen  was  introduced,  to  correspond  with  the  shape  of  the  draw- 
ing-room bow,  which  also  served  to  aid  in  concealing  the  offices  and 
yard  on  the  right  side  of  the  house,  and  the  yard  itself  was  contract- 
ed, that  it  might  be  effectually  planted  out  on  both  sides  from  the 
garden.  The  walks  in  the  "  improved  plan"  are  judiciously  altered. 
The  house  itself,  and  the  laundry,  are  to  be  covered  with  clematis, 
honeysuckles,  and  wistaria. 

The  apparent  breadth  of  the  garden,  indeed  its  general  extent, 
being  so  much  increased,  the  four  beds  e,  e,  e,  e,  are  introduced,  and 
it  is  admissible  to  fill  these  with  flowering  plants.  A  juniper  will  have 
a  satisfactory  effect  in  the  centre  of  each.  The  plans  almost  explain 
themselves. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

Orange,  lemon,  citron,  and  shaddock-trees,  on  which  there  are  now 
set  a  superabundance  of  young  fruit,  should  have  them  thinned  to  a 
reasonable  number  on  each,  in  proportion  to  its  strength ;  after  which 
they  may  be  divested  of  all  flowers  subsequently  produced,  especially 
when  wanted  for  domestic  purposes,  such  as  to  make  orange-flower 
water,  &c. 

It  would  be  of  considerable  utility  to  those  trees  to  have  the  earth 
in  the  top  of  the  tubs  or  pots  now  taken  out,  for  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  and  replaced  with  fresh  compost ;  this  would  greatly  encourage 
their  autumn  growth. 

PROPAGATING   THE   PLANTS. 

Still  continue  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  green-house  plants 
which  you  wish  to  increase,  by  cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  &c.,  as  di- 
rected in  the  preceding  months ;  most  kinds  will  yet  succeed  by  cut- 
tings of  the  present  year's  wood  if  carefully  planted,  duly  shaded, 
and  moderately  watered ;  such  as  xeranthemums,  salivias,  geraniums, 
pelargoniums,  and  erodiums,  hermannias,  phlomises,  ericas, *cinera- 
rias,  camellia  japonica  and  acuba  japonica,  cotyledon  orbiculata,  ono- 
nis  natrix,  polygala  bracteolata,  lavendulas,  anthyllises,  proteas,  &c. 
&c.  These  kinds,  with  many  others,  will  now  take  freely,  in  suit- 
able earth,  without  the  assistance  of  a  hot- bed.  Let  the  cuttings  be 
taken  from  healthy  plants ;  they  should  be  from  four  to  eight  inches 


JULY] 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 


477 


in  length,  and  of  a  stout  and  robust  growth.  The  leaves  should  be 
stripped  off  more  than  half  way  up,  and  the  cuttings  planted  about 
two-thirds  of  their  length  into  pots,  garden-pans,  or  beds  of  earth, 
adopting  for  each  kind  its  favorite  soil ;  then  give  shade  and  water, 
as  directed  on  former  occasions. 

The  ericas,  anthyllises,  and  other  kinds  that  do  not  root  freely  in 
this  way,  should  have  bell-glasses  placed  over  them,  which  will  great- 
ly facilitate  their  rooting. 

Continue  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  succulent  plants  be- 
longing to  this  department,  as  directed  on  page  418. 

PROPAGATING   BY   MERE   LEAVES. 

Several  plants  may  be  propagated  from  mere  leaves.  The  wax 
plant,  hoya,  is  a  common  instance.  Gesnera,  clianthus  punicens, 
gloxinia  speciosa,  are  also  well  known,  but  it  is  probable  that  most 
leaves,  when  separated  from  their  parent,  are  incapable  of  doing  so 
for  reasons  which  we  are  not  yet  able  to  explain.  The  scales  of  a 
bulb  will,  with  some  certainty,  produce  new  plants  under  favorable 
circumstances,  viz  :  a  strong  bottom  heat,  moderate  moisture,  and  a 
rich,  stimulating  soil. 

Leaves  intended  for  cuttings,  should  be  taken  from  about  the  mid- 
dle of  a  branch.  Gloxinia,  bryophillum,  lilies,  &c.,  may  be  experi- 

Fig.  54. 


mented  upon  by  the  amateur.  If  we  wish  to  get  on  very  quickly, 
the  midrib  on  the  lower  face  of  the  leaf  may  be  broken  in  several 
places,  without  injuring  the  limb,  and  so  lightly  that  the  broken 
places  can  scarcely  be  distinguished;  the  lower  face  of  the  leaf  is 
then  placed  on  the  earth  of  a  pot.  Soon  at  each  fracture  a  little  cal- 
lus develops  itself,  which  gives  rise  to  roots  as  seen  above  at  c. 


478  THE  GREEN- HOUSE.  [JULY 

Some  leaves,  when  employed  as  cuttings,  send  out  roots  and  buds  at 
each  incision,  as  in  hemionitis  palmata,  bryophillum,  &c. ;  d  shows 
how  this  effect  is  produced.  Time  is  required  to  accomplish  this,  and 
especial  attention  must  be  paid  to  burying  the  end  of  the  petiole,  or 
the  base  of  the  leaf;  e  represents  theophrasta  latifolia,  with  its  leaf 
cut  in  two,  which  struck  and  developed  buds ;  the  dotted  part,  shown 
in  the  upper  half  of  the  leaf,  e,  was  removed,  in  order  to  put  the  leaf 
into  a  little  pot,  but  this  did  not  prevent  the  success  of  the  cutting. 
The  above  is  abridged  from  Dr.  Lindley's  new  edition  of  his  "Theory 
of  Horticulture"  a  indicates  at  what  place  we  may  cut  the  leaf 
without  hurting  the  plant ;  the  leaf  being  placed  in  the  earth  forms 
a  callus  at  its  base,  b,  whence  the  roots,  and,  consequently,  more 
shoots,  spring  up. 

TRANSPLANTING  SEEDLINGS  AND   CUTTINGS. 

Such  seedlings  of  green-house  plants  as  were  raised  from  the 
spring  sowings,  and  that  are  now  three  inches  high,  or  more,  should 
be  transplanted  into  small  pots  separately,  or  several  into  large  pots, 
and  immediately  watered ;  they  must  be  kept  duly  shaded  till  well 
taken  with  the  earth,  and  in  a  growing  state ;  and  even  then  it  will 
be  proper  to  place  them  where  they  can  avoid  the  mid- day  sun  for 
the  remainder  of  the  season. 

Many  of  the  cuttings  planted  in  spring  will  be  well  rooted  by  this 
time,  and  may  now  be  taken  up  with  as  much  earth  as  possible  about 
their  roots,  planted  separately  in  suitable  sized  pots,  and  shaded  for 
eight  or  ten  days  from  the  mid-day  sun ;  always  observing  to  keep 
the  earth  in  the  pots  moderately  moist.  The  geraniums  in  particular 
may  be  taken  up  when  too  thick,  and  transplanted  at  any  time  after 
the  cuttings  have  grown  four  or  five  inches. 

SHIFTING   INTO   LARGER  POTS. 

You  may  now  shift  such  of  your  plants  as  require  larger  pots  or 
tubs ;  this  is  the  best  of  the  summer  months  for  that  purpose,  as  the 
greater  number  will  have  made  their  summer  progress,  and  are  now 
rather  at  a  stand  previous  to  the  commencement  of  their  new  au- 
tumnal vegetation.  This  is  particularly  applicable  to  the  camellia. 

The  operation  of  shifting  is  to  be  performed  in  every  respect  as 
directed  on  page  375. 

Such  plants  as  are  now  shifted  must  be  immediately  watered  and 
removed  into  the  shade,  where  they  can  have  free  air  and  protection 
from  the  sun  in  the  heat  of  the  day  j  there  to  remain  for  two,  three, 
or  four  weeks,  according  to  the  time  the  respective  kinds  may  take  to 
re-establish  themselves,  and  get  into  a  fresh  state  of  growth,  when 
they  may  be  replaced  among  the  general  collection. 

LOOSENING  AND   GIVING  FRESH  EARTH. 

It  will  be  very  proper  at  this  time  to  examine  the  pots  and  tubs  in 
general,  and  where  the  earth  is  inclinable  to  bind  let  the  surface  be 


JULY]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  479 

carefully  loosened  to  a  little  depth,  breaking  the  earth  small  with 
the  hands,  and  at  the  same  time  add  thereto,  if  not  done  in  any  of 
the  preceding  months,  some  fresh  compost ;  then  level  the  surface 
neatly. 

This  dressing  will  do  the  plants  more  good  than  many  people  might 
imagine ;  but  in  particular  to  such  as  are  in  small  pots. 

GATHERING   AND    SOWING   SEEDS. 

Collect  all  the  different  sorts  of  seeds  as  they  ripen,  spread  them 
upon  paper  in  a  dry  shady  place,  and  when  sufficiently  hardened,  let 
them  be  carefully  preserved  in  their  pods  or  husks,  or  in  paper  bags, 
till  the  proper  season  for  sowing  them. 

The  seeds  of  geraniums,  and  of  any  other  quick  growing  kinds  of 
green-house  plants,  may  now  be  sown,  and  if  properly  attended  to 
will  attain  to  a  neat  size  before  winter. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

PINE- APPLES. 

The  pine-apples  being  now  arriving  at  maturity,  it  may  not  be  un- 
acceptable to  give  some  account,  of  the  different  varieties. 

Of  the  'bromelia  there  have  been  many  distinct  species  described, 
viz :  the  B.  ananas,  B.  pinguin,  B.  karatas,  B.  lingulata,  B.  humilis, 
B.  acanga,  B.  bracteata,  B.  nudicaulis,  B.  paniculigera,  &c. ;  but  as 
the  first  species  is  the  only  one  cultivated  on  account  of  its  fruit,  I 
shall  confine  myself  exclusively  to  it,  at  least  for  the  present. 

From  the  Bromelia  ananas,  or  pine-apple,  as  it  is  called,  on 
account  of  the  resemblance  of  the  shape  of  its  fruit  to  the  cones  of 
some  species  of  pine-tree,  particularly  to  that  of  the  Pinus  pinea,  or 
stone-pine,  there  arise  six  principal  varieties  which  have  been  culti- 
vated for  their  fruit,  &c.  1.  The  variety  ovata,  or  queen-pine.  2. 
The  pyramidalis,  or  sugar-loaf  pine.  3.  The  lucida,  or  king  pine. 
4.  The  glabra,  or  smooth  pine.  5.  The  serotina,  or  late  pine;  and 
6.  The  viridiSj  or  green  pine. 

The  queen  pine  is  the  most  commonly  cultivated,  but  seems  daily 
to  decrease  in  esteem.  Its  flesh  is  of  a  fine  yellow  color,  but  in  the 
hot  summer  months  it  is  very  apt  not  to  cut  firm,  is  liable  to  crack 
in  the  middle,  and  often  contains  an  insipid  watery  juice ;  but  when 
it  ripens  late  in  the  season  it  is  not  so  subject  to  any  of  these  defects. 

The  sugar-loaf  pine  is  easily  distinguished  from  all  the  others  by 
its  leaves  having  purple  stripes  on  their  inside  the  whole  length.  The 
fruit  is  paler  when  ripe  than  the  former,  inclining  to  a  straw  color. 
This  was  brought  from  Brazil  to  Jamaica,  where  it  is  esteemed  far 
beyond  any  other  kind.  But  of  this  there  are  three  varieties.  1. 
The  brown  leaved.  2.  The  green  leaved,  with  purple  stripes,  and 
spines  on  the  edges.  3.  The  green  leaved,  with  purple  stripes  and 


480  THE  HOT- HOUSE.  [JULY 

smooth  edges.  The  fruit  of  these  is  of  exquisite  flavor,  filled  with  a 
lively  delicious  juice,  and  the  flesh  of  a  yellow  color. 

The  king  pine  has  grass-green  smooth  leaves,  and  produces  a 
pretty  large  fruit ;  but  as  its  flesh  is  hard,  stringy,  and  sometimes 
not  well  flavored,  it  is  not  much  cultivated. 

The  smooth  pine  is  preserved  by  some  persons  for  sake  of  variety, 
but  the  fruit  is  of  little  value. 

The  late  pine  is  not  of  much  importance  for  cultivating  on  account 
of  its  ripening  at  an  untimely  season,  and  therefore  its  description  is 
considered  unnecessary. 

The  green  pine  is  considered  tolerably  good.  The  fruit,  if  suffered 
to  ripen  well,  is  of  an  olive  color ;  to  have  it  green,  it  must  be  cut 
before  it  is  ripe,  and  suffered  to  lie  by  till  fit  for  use.  Plants  of  this 
kind  may  be  procured  from  Barbadoes  and  Montserrat ;  but  the  fruit 
of  the  sugar-loaf  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  it,  and  indeed  to  any 
other  kind  yet  introduced. 

There  is,  likewise,  the  Surinam,  or  silver-striped  pine,  which  ex- 
ceeds in  beauty  the  whole  tribe  of  variegated  plants.  The  leaves  are 
variously  striped  with  a  dark  green  and  delicate  white;  and  the  whole 
is  tinged  with  a  lively  red,  which  produces  a  contrast  that  gives  the 
plant  a  gay  and  most  beautiful  appearance.  Nor  is  there  less  beauty 
in  its  fruit,  the  protuberances  of  which  swell  large,  and  when  ripe, 
are  variously  marbled  with  red,  green,  yellow,  and  white ;  which, 
together  with  the  variegated  crown  on  the  top  of  the  fruit,  add  a 
singularity  and  elegance  to  the  whole  beyond  the  power  of  descrip- 
tion. The  fruit  is  tolerably  good,  and  therefore  the  plant  is  doubly 
worthy  of  cultivation. 

Many  other  varieties  of  this  fruit  have  arisen  from  seed,  such  as 
the  black  or  brown  Antigua;  the  Ripley  queen  pine,  which  is  a  very 
good  fruit ;  the  Grenada  pine,  with  marbled  leaves  and  very  large 
fruit;  the  bog-warp  pine,  with  broad  green  leaves;  the  smooth, 
long,  narrow-leaved  pine;  the  Surinam  pine  with  gold- striped  leaves, 
and  the  Enville  pine;  and  there  are  also  varieties  with  red-fleshed 
fruit. 

COMPOST  PROPER  FOR  PINE  PLANTS. 

You  should,  in  the  first  place,  twelve  months  previous  to  the  time 
of  its  being  wanted  for  use,  pare  off  the  sward  or  turf  of  a  pasture 
not  more  than  two  inches  deep,  where  the  soil  is  a  strong,  rich  loam, 
and  carry  it  to  some  convenient  place  to  be  piled  together  for  rotting ; 
observing  to  turn  it  over  once  a  month  at  least,  spreading  it  so  as  to 
expose  a  considerable  surface  to  the  summer  sun,  as  well  as  to  the 
frosts  in  winter;  but  in  wet  weather  it  will  be  proper  to  gather  it  up 
into  a  high  ridge  to  prevent  its  rich  juices  being  dissolved  and  carried 
away  by  water.  If  a  quantity  of  sheep  dung  could  be  collected 
fresh  and  mixed  therewith,  in  the  first  instance,  it  would  greatly  im- 
prove it. 

1.  Having  the  above  prepared  and  made  fine  with  the  spade,  but 
not  screened ;  to  three  barrowfuls  of  it,  add  one  of  vegetable  mould 
of  decayed  oak  leaves,  and  half  a  barrowful  of  coarse  sand,  observ- 


JULY]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  481 

ing,  however,  that  if  the  soil,  from  which  the  turf  had  been  taken, 
inclined  any  way  to  sand,  that  should  be  now  omitted.  This  makes 
a  proper  compost  for  crowns,  suckers,  and  young  plants. 

2.  To  make  a  compost  for  fruiting  plants  use  three  barrows  of  the 
above  reduced  sward,  two  of  the  vegetable  mould,  one  of  coarse  sand, 
and  one-fourth  of  a  barrow  of  soot. 

The  above  compost  should  be  made  some  months  before  wanted, 
and  very  frequently  turned  during  that  time,  that  the  different  mix- 
tures may  get  well  and  uniformly  incorporated.  As  to  the  quantity 
of  sand  to  be  added,  you  must  be  governed  by  the  nature  of  the  soil 
from  whence  the  turf  was  taken;  for  too  great  a  portion  of  sand 
would  be  injurious,  and  subject  many  of  the  young  plants  to  go  into 
fruit  before  the  proper  period. 

Where  oak  leaves  are  not  used  in  hot-houses,  or  for  hot-beds,  &c., 
the  vegetable  mould  may  be  made  by  laying  a  quantity  of  them 
together,  as  soon  as  they  fall  from  the  trees,  in  a  heap  sufficiently 
large  to  ferment.  They  should  be  covered  at  first  for  some  time,  to 
prevent  the  upper  leaves  from  being  blown  away ;  the  heap  must 
afterwards  be  frequently  turned,  and  kept  clean  from  weeds ;  the 
leaves  will  be  two  years  before  they  are  sufficiently  reduced  to  be  fit 
for  use. 

Keep  the  different  heaps  of  compost  at  all  times  free  from  weeds, 
turn  them  frequently,  and  round  them  up  in  rainy  seasons ;  but  they 
should  be  spread  out  in  continued  frosts,  and  in  fine  weather. 

RAISING  THE  PINE  BY  CROWNS. 

The  crown  is  perfected  at  the  time  when  the  pine-apple  is  quite 
yellow  ;  therefore  the  crowns  of  such  fruit  may  be  planted  in  two  or 
three  days  after  being  taken  off;  but  if  the  fruit  be  cut  green,  as  is 
practised  by  some  persons  with  the  queen  pine,  or  if  only  the  top 
of  the  fruit  be  green  when  cut,  as  is  the  case  frequently  with  the 
sugar  loaf  kinds,  even  when  the  principal  part  is  thoroughly  ripened, 
then  it  will  be  necessary  to  let  the  crowns  of  such  fruit  lie  five, 
six,  or  seven  days,  after  they  are  taken  off,  in  a  shady  part  of  the 
hot-house,  in  order  that  the  wounds  should  dry,  and  particularly  to 
give  them  that  degree  of  maturity  to  which  nature  was  not  allowed 
to  conduct  them. 

The  crowns  may  then  be  planted  in  small  pots  and  plunged  into 
the  tan-pit,  where  they  will  soon  strike  root,  and  get  into  a  growing 
state.  But  before  the  crowns  are  planted  their  lower  or  bottom  leaves 
should  be  cut  off  close  with  a  knife  or  a  pair  of  scissors,  which  will 
cause  them  to  decay  much  sooner,  and  make  room  for  the  roots  to  be 
produced  with  greater  ease. 

The  crowns  will  require  but  very  little  water  till  they  have  taken 
root,  and  are  in  a  growing  state ;  when  it  may  be  administered  more 
freely,  but  always  with  a  sparing  hand. 

RAISING  THE  PINE  BY  SUCKERS. 

As  the  fruit  of  the  pine-apple  is  the  principal  object  and  sole 
31 


482  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JULY 

reward  of  the  great  expense  attendant  on  its  management,  few  per- 
sons choose  to  permit  the  suckers  to  remain  on  the  plants  till  they 
grow  very  large,  as  they  would  injure  the  fruit  and  prevent  its 
swelling ;  they  are,  therefore,  generally  stopped  in  growth,  or 
taken  off  as  soon  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety  ;  but  when  a  stock  of 
plants  is  the  object,  the  additional  advantage  which  might  be  gained 
in  the  fruit  is  given  up,  or  at  least  of  as  many  as  will  produce 
the  number  of  suckers  required,  in  order  to  encourage  their  growth, 
and  are  permitted  to  remain  on  the  old  stocks  or  plants  even  for 
some  time  after  the  fruit  is  cut.*  In  this  situation  the  suckers 
will  grow  very  large,  provided  the  stools  are  plentifully  supplied  with 
water. 

The  suckers  should  not  be  taken  from  the  plants  till  they  are 
grown  to  the  length  of  about  twelve  inches,  when  their  bottoms  will 
be  hard,  woody,  and  full  of  round  knobs,  which  are  the  rudiments  of 
the  roots. 

In  taking  off  each  sucker,  remove  it  two  or  three  times  backward 
and  forward,  in  a  side-way  direction,  and  it  will  come  out  with  its 
bottom  entire,  which  should  be  cut  smooth,  and  deprived  of  any 
raggedness. 

Place  these  in  a  shady  part  of  the  hot-house  for  two  or  three  days, 
and  then  plant  them  in  small  sized  pots,  just  so  deep  as  to  keep 
them  fast  in  the  earth ;  after  which  they  are  to  be  treated  as  direct- 
ed for  the  crowns.  The  proper  size  of  the  pots  to  plant  full  grown 
crowns  and  suckers  in,  is  six  inches  diameter  in  top,  and  five  and  a 
half  deep. 

CARE  OF  THE  FRUITING  PINES. 

The  fruiting  pines  must  now  have  abundance  of  air,  which  adds 
much  to  the  flavor  of  the  fruit ;  but  though  the  heat  of  the  day,  at 
this  season,  is  very  intense,  yet,  when  northwesterly  winds  prevail, 
the  night  sometimes  happens,  though  not  frequently,  to  be  rather 
cold  for  the  fruiting  plants ;  in  which  case  it  may  be  prudent  to  close 
the  lights  at  night,  taking  care  to  slide  them  open  early  in  the  morn- 
ing; this,  however,  must  be  governed  by  circumstances  and  by  the 
heat  of  the  bark  pit,  which,  if  any  way  brisk,  will  render  it  the  more 
necessary  to  give  plenty  of  air  at  all  times. 

As  the  pine-apples  come  to  maturity,  care  should  be  taken  to  cut 
them  off  when  in  due  perfection  and  before  they  become  too  ripe ; 
generally  cutting  them  in  a  morning,  each  with  several  inches  of 
the  stalk,  and  with  the  crown  of  leaves  at  top,  till  served  to  the 
table. 

When  the  fruit  is  eaten,  it  will  be  proper  to  preserve  the  crowns 
and  any  young  suckers  growing  round  at  the  base,f  particularly  if 
wanted  for  increase. 

*  Much  of  the  expense  here  spoken  off  may  be  obviated  by  planting  out 
in  beds  in  the  hot-house,  and  having  a  part  of  the  hot-water  pipes  sunk  in 
a  chamber  underneath  for  bottom  heat.  All  potting,  bark  beds,  and  re- 
peated shiftings  are  thus  avoided. 

t  The  brown  Antigua,  the  king,  and  the  sugar-loaf  kinds,  commonly 


JULY]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  483 


SHIFTING  THE  SUCCESSION  PINES. 

The  pine  plants  which  are  to  fruit  in  the  ensuing  season,  should 
be  shifted  either  in  the  last  week  of  this  month  or  the  first  in  August, 
into  full  sized  pots,  of  about  eleven  or  twelve  inches  diameter  at 
top,  and  ten  deep ;  by  doing  this  so  early  in  the  year  they  will  have 
time  to  make  good  roots  before  spring,  for  otherwise  they  seldom 
produce  very  large  fruit. 

Having  the  pots  and  new  compost  ready,  take  the  plants  out  of  the 
bark-bed,  and  shift  them  in  the  following  method : — 

First,  place  a  shell  in  the  bottom  of  the  new  pot,  and  put  in  two 
inches  deep  of  fresh  compost :  then  turn  the  plant  out  of  the  old 
pot  with  the  ball  entire,  and  place  it  immediately  into  the  new, 
fill  up  around  the  ball  with  more  of  the  compost,  and  let  the  top 
thereof  be  covered  with  it  an  inch  deep. 

In  this  manner  let  the  whole  be  shifted  and  immediately  watered, 
then  plunge  them  again  into  the  bark-bed. 

Previous  to  plunging  the  pots,  the  bark-bed  must  first  be  stirred 
up  to  the  bottom  to  revive  the  declining  heat,  observing  at  the  same 
time  to  add  about  one-third  or  at  least  one-fourth  of  new  tan  thereto, 
if  the  old  is  much  wasted,  become  earthy,  or  not  likely  to  produce  a 
sufficient  degree  of  bottom  heat  to  promote  the  fresh  rooting  and 
growth  of  the  plants. 

CAEE  OF  THE  VARIOUS   HOT-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

The  general  care  and  propagation  of  the  various  exotics  of  the  hot- 
house department,  are  the  same  now  as  directed  in  May  and  June, 
and  therefore  unnecessary  to  be  repeated ;  but  it  would  be  very  pro- 
per at  this  time  to  refresh  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  pots  or  tubs,  as 
directed  on  page  478,  and  also  to  shift  such  of  the  plants  as  require 
it.  The  hibiscus  rosa  sinensis,  vinca  rosea,  plumeria  rubra,  allamanda 
cathartica,  asclepias  curassavica,  lantanas,  begonias,  &c.  may  now  be 
easily  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  where  an  increase  of  the  various 
kinds  is  wanted,  that  business  ought  not  to  be  delayed  to  a  later  pe- 
riod, that  the  cuttings  may  have  time  to  become  well  rooted  before 
winter ;  nor  should  you  despair  of  being  able  to  propagate  any  kind 
of  tree  or  shrub  by  cuttings ;  for  with  due  care  there  are  few  but  may 
be  increased  that  way,  especially  with  the  assistance  of  bell-glasses 
and  a  suitable  bottom  heat. 

produce  suckers  at  the  top  of  the  stem,  immediately  under  the  fruit ;  but 
these  are  generally  small,  and  of  much  less  value  than  those  produced 
about  the  surface  of  the  earth. 


484  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.     .  [AUG. 

AUGUST. 
WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

SAVOYS,  COLEWORTS,  AND  BORECOLE. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month  finish  planting  your  savoys ;  they 
will  not,  at  this  season,  require  a  greater  distance  than  two  feet  every 
way.  This  plantation  will  be  tolerably  well  cabbaged  in  November, 
and  may,  with  a  little  care,  be  preserved  in  fine  condition  all  winter. 

The  early  York,  Battersea,  and  sugar-loaf  plants,  arising  from  seed 
sown  last  month,  should  now  be  planted  out  for  autumn  coleworts  ; 
they  will  yet  form  nice  heads ;  and  some  more  of  the  same  kinds 
should  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  from  which  you  will 
have  delicious  hearts  late  in  October,  &c.  In  the  southern  States, 
where  the  plants  can  stand  out  all  winter,  this  will  be  a  very  useful 
practice.  Plant  also  your  last  crop  of  borecole. 

SPINAGE. 

Now  prepare  some  ground  and  sow  a  good  crop  of  spinage ;  that 
sown  in  the  first  week  of  the  month  will  be  fit  for  use  in  September, 
and  what  you  sow  in  the  second  will  be  in  fine  condition  in  October. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month,  you  should  sow  a  principal  crop  of 
the  prickly  seeded  spinage  for  early  spring  use ;  this  ought  to  be  sown 
on  dry  gravelly  ground,  for  on  such  it  will  stand  the  winter  much 
better  than  on  any  other.  A  second  sowing  will,  however,  be  neces- 
sary for  the  same  purpose  in  the  first  week  of  September,  as  it  will 
always  be  proper  to  have  a  double  chance.  With  either  or  both  of 
these  sowings,  you  may  throw  in  a  thin  scattering  of  brown  Dutch 
or  cabbage  lettuce,  and  if  the  winter  is  any  way  mild,  you  will  have 
good  early  plants  in  spring,  which  you  are  then  to  take  up  and  trans- 
plant into  beds  for  heading. 

SOWING  RADISHES. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month  you  should  sow  a  sufficient  supply 
of  short-top  and  salmon  radishes ;  also,  some  of  the  white  Naples  and 
turnip-rooted  kinds;  these  will  be  fit  for  the  table  in  September. 
About  the  middle  of  the  month,  you  ought  to  sow  a  second  crop  to 
come  into  use  in  October. 

A  full  crop  of  the  black  and  white  Spanish  or  winter  radishes 
may  be  sown  at  either,  or  both  of  the  above  periods,  for  fall  and  win- 
ter use. 


AUG.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  485 


ASPARAGUS. 

The  plantations  of  asparagus  should  now  be  kept  perfectly  clear 
from  weeds,  but  particularly  those  which  were  planted  last  spring, 
and  likewise  the  seedling  beds,  but  this  must  be  done  by  a  very  care- 
ful hand  weeding. 

TURNIPS. 

The  first  week  in  this  month  is  a  very  principal  time  for  sowing 
your  general  crop  of  turnips  for  autumn  and  winter  use,  whether  in 
the  field  or  garden ;  you  may  continue  in  the  middle  States  to  sow  as 
opportunity  offers,  or  as  the  season  proves  favorable,  till  the  middle 
of  the  month ;  after  which,  it  will  be  too  late  to  expect  any  tolerable 
produce.  In  the  eastern  States,  the  last  sowing  ought  to  be  performed 
in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  and  the  earlier  in  that,  the  better. 
If  any  be  sown  after  the  above  periods,  it  ought  to  be  of  the  early 
six  weeks  kind ;  this  will  arrive  at  maturity  at  an  earlier  period  than 
any  other  sort.  In  the  southern  States,  turnips  may  be  sown  some- 
what later.  Sow  very  thinly  in  drills,  one  foot  apart  and  one  inch 
deep.  The  purple-top  strap  leaf,  and  yellow  stone,  are  two  good 
kinds. 

CELERY. 

Plant  now  a  full  crop  of  late  celery ;  let  this  be  done  as  early  in 
the  month  as  possible,  and  as  directed  on  pages  423  and  461. 

Continue  to  earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  celery  once  every  ten 
or  fourteen  days,  observing  to  do  this  on  a  dry  day,  and  previously  to 
break  the  earth  fine  with  the  spade ;  take  care  to  gather  up  all  the 
leaves  neatly,  and  not  to  bury  the  hearts  of  the  plants. 

ARTICHOKES. 

The  late  spring' plantations  of  artichokes  should  be  now  looked  over 
and  treated  as  directed  for  the  older  plants  on  page  463. 

SMALL   SALADING. 

Where  a  constant  supply  of  small  salading  is  wanted,  such  as  let- 
tuce, cresses,  radish,  rape,  and  mustard,  they  should  now  be  sown 
every  eight  or  ten  days  on  a  shady  border,  and  frequently  watered, 
both  before  and  after  coming  up. 

SOWING   PEAS. 

You  may  any  time  between  the  first  and  fifteenth  of  this  month,  or 
at  each  period,  sow  a  crop  of  the  early  frame,  Charlton,  or  Warwick 
peas ;  these,  should  the  season  prove  favorable,  will  afford  you  tolera- 
ble crops  in  October.  If  the  weather  be  dry,  soak  the  peas  and  water 
the  drills,  as  directed  on  page  464. 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [AUG. 


PLANTING   KIDNEY-BEANS. 

At  any  time  before  the  middle  of  the  month  you  may  plant  a  crop 
of  the  early  cream-colored,  early  yellow,  or  early  China  dwarf  kidney- 
beans;  they  will  yet  succeed  very  well;  but  should  the  ground  and 
weather  be  dry  at  the  time,  the  drills  ought  to  be  watered,  and  the 
beans  soaked  in  soft  water  four  or  five  hours  before  planting. 

SOWING  AND   TRANSPLANTING  LETTUCES. 

Early  in  the  month  sow  a  good  supply  of  lettuces  for  fall  use ;  the 
kinds  proper  to  sow  now  are  the  brown  Butch  and  Silesia  lettuces ; 
both  these  kinds  succeed  well  at  this  season.  Sow  them  as  directed 
in  the  former  months.  A  succession  crop  should  also  be  sown  about 
the  middle  of  the  month. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month  sow  some  of  the  brown  Dutch  and 
hardy  green  cabbage  lettuce,  to  transplant  into  frames  and  on  warm 
borders  in  October,  for  winter  and  spring  use;  for  the  method  of  pro- 
tecting them  from  frost,  see  November. 

Transplant  from  the  seed-beds  such  of  your  advancing  young  crops 
of  lettuces  as  are  grown  to  a  sufficient  size ;  let  this  be  done  as  di- 
rected in  the  preceding  months,  and,  if  possible,  in  moist  or  cloudy 
weather;  giving  them  a  plentiful  watering  when  planted,  and  repeat 
it  frequently  if  necessary.  Be  particular  always  to  sow  and  plant 
your  lettuces  in  an  open  situation,  and  not  to  suffer  them  to  be  drawn 
up,  or  to  remain  too  long  in  the  seed-beds,  otherwise  they  will  never 
form  good  heads. 

\ 

ENDIVE. 

Tie  up  your  endive,  which  is  full  grown,  or  cover  them  with 
boards  or  tiles  to  blanch :  this  must  be  performed  when  the  leaves 
are  very  dry,  otherwise  the  plants  will  rot.  Select  the  large  and 
full-hearted  plants,  and  with  bass  or  other  strings,  or  with  small 
osier  twigs,  tie  them  a  little  above  the  middle,  not  too  tight,  pre- 
viously gathering  up  the  leaves  regularly  in  the  hand, 

Transplant,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on  page  460,  such 
young  endive  as  is  now  of  a  proper  size,  and  water  it  immediately, 
which  repeat,  occasionally,  till  the  plants  begin  to  grow  freely. 
These  plants  must  be  set  in  an  open  situation,  and  by  no  means  near 
any  kind  of  shade  whatever. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  month  sow  a  full  crop  of  endive  for  late 
autumn  and  winter  use;  the  green  curled  sort  is  by  much  the  most 
preferable  for  this  sowing,  as  being  more  hardy  and  keeping  better 
than  any  other  kind.  It  would  be  proper  to  sow  some  more  of  the 
same  sort  about  the  middle  of  the  month;  for  these,  provided  they 
have  time  to  grow  to  a  proper  size,  will  keep  better  than  those  which 
were  sown  earlier. 


AUG.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  481 


CARDOONS  AND  FINOCHIO. 

The  cardoons,  which  were  planted  in  June,  will  now  be  arrived  at 
some  considerable  height,  so  that  you  may  begin  to  tie  up  some  for 
blanching;  bind  the  stalks  round,  rather  loosely,  as  practised  with 
endive,  and  draw  the  earth  up  to  the  stems,  as  you  would  to  celery ; 
repeat  this  earthing  from  time  to  time,  as  they  advance  in  growth, 
till  whitened  to  a  sufficient  height. 

Earth  up  finochio,  which  is  full  grown,  in  order  to  blanch  and 
render  it  fit  for  use. 


MELONS  AND  CUCUMBERS. 

Your  crops  of  melons  "and  cucumbers,  whether  in  an  advancing  or 
fruiting  state,  should  be  kept  very  clean,  which  will  much  improve 
the  flavor  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  fruit.  If  the  weather 
proves  .very  dry,  a  gentle  watering,  now  and  then,  given  in  the 
evening,  will  be  of  considerable  service  to  the  late  crops,  but  more 
particularly  to  the  cucumbers. 


CARE  OF  THE  GENERAL  CROPS. 

All  your  crops  should  be  kept  clear  from  weeds,  using  the  hoe 
where  it  can  be  done  with  safety,  and  where  not,  they  must  be  care- 
fully hand-weeded.  Earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  cabbages,  peas, 
beans,  and  all  others  that  require  that  treatment.  Water  all  new 
plantations,  and  such  young  advancing  seedlings  as  may  be  improved 
thereby.  Pull  up  the  haulm  and  stalks  of  peas,  beans,  and  cabbages, 
&c.,  which  have  done  bearing,  and  carry  them  out  of  the  garden,  as 
well  as  all  weeds,  hoed  or  picked  up. 


HERBS. 

Cut  such  herbs  as  are  now  in  flower  to  distil,  or  to  dry  for  winter 
use,  always  observing  to  do  it  when  they  are  dry,  and  spread  them 
in  a  dry,  shady  place ;  for  if  they  are  dried  in  the  sun,  they  will 
shrink  up,  turn  black,  and  be  of  little  value. 

You  may  now,  if  omitted  in  spring,  or  in  the  preceding  months, 
plant  slips  of  sage,  rue,  lavender,  mastich,  thyme,  hyssop,  and  winter 
savory,  &c.,  but  these  will  not  be  near  so  strong,  nor  so  capable  of 
resisting  the  severity  of  the  winter  as  those  planted  at  an  earlier 
period. 

Cut  down  the  decayed  flower-stems  of  any  kinds  that  appear  un- 
sightly ;  and  at  the  same  time  it  will  be  proper  to  shorten  all  the 
straggling  young  branches  in  order  to  keep  the  plants  in  due  compass, 
which  will  cause  them  to  produce  fresh  shoots,  and  make  the  plants 
appear  neat  during  the  remainder  of  the  season.  This  should  be 
done,  if  possible,  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather. 


488  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [AUG. 


CORN- SAL  AD. 

The  Valeriana  locusta,  variety  olitoria,  grows  commonly  in  the 
cornfields  in  many  parts  of  Europe  ;  hence,  it  is  called  corn- salad ; 
and  from  its  being  sufficiently  hardy  to  stand  the  winter,  and  of  early 
growth  in  spring,  has  acquired  the  appellation  of  lamb's  lettuce,  from 
its  affording  them  an  early  pasturage. 

This  is  an  annual  plant,  and  is  cultivated  as  an  esculent  herb  in 
salads  for  winter  and  early  spring  use.  It  should  be  sown  in  the 
middle  States  in  the  last  week  of  this  month,  or  first  in  September, 
on  a  dry  soil  and  open  situation,  and  raked  in;  the  plants  will  come 
up  soon  after,  and  should  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  inches  asunder; 
they  are  used  during  the  winter  and  early  spring  months  in  compo- 
sition with  lettuce  and  other  salad  herbs,  and  as  a  substitute  for  these 
where  deficient. 


WINTER  CRESSES. 

The  Erysimum  barbarea,  or  winter  cress,  is  used  for  the  same 
purpose,  sown  at  the  same  time,  and  treated  in  like  manner  as 
directed  above  for  corn-salad.  This  plant  is,  by  the  market-garden- 
ers about  Philadelphia,  called  scurvy-grass,  to  which  it  is  by  no  means 
allied;  the  latter  being  the  Cochlearia  officinalis  of  Linn.,  a  good 
antiscorbutic,  which  has  rather  a  disagreeable  smell,  and  a  warm, 
bitter  taste,  by  no  means  palatable  as  a  salad.  The  winter  cresses, 
if  sown  in  the  last  week  of  this  month,  or  first  in  September,  on  a 
dry  soil  and  warm  exposure,  will  afford  an  early  salad  in  spring, 
very  pleasing  to  some  palates,  and  perfectly  resembling  in  taste  and 
flavor,  and  somewhat  in  appearance,  the  Sisymbrium  nasturtium,  or 
water- cress. 

LIMA  AND   CAROLINA  BEANS. 

Hoe  and  clean  between  the  hills  or  rows  of  Lima  and  Carolina 
beans,  and  cut  off  any  runners  that  are  found  to  trail  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  which  only  tend  to  rob  the  bearing  vines. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

In  the  southern  States,  particularly  the  Carolinas  and  Georgia, 
this  month  being  the  commencement  of  their  rainy  season,  it  is  com- 
mon to  sow  cauliflowers,  cabbage,  carrot,  parsnep,  onion,  leek,  and 
endive ;  and  in  short,  the  general  variety  of  seeds  that  are  sown  in 
the  middle  States  in  the  months  of  March  and  April.  These  kinds 
arrive  there  at  a  tolerable  degree  of  perfection  before  their  winter 
sets  in,  which  is  so  very  mild  as  scarcely  to  injure  any  of  their  escu- 
lent crops;  and  such  of  them  as  do  not  come  to  maturity  before 
winter  attain  it  early  in  spring. 


AUG.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.— THE  ORCHARD.  489 


DUNG- HILLS   AND   WEED-HEAPS. 

The  dung-hills  should,  during  the  summer  months,  be  kept  free 
from  weeds,  for  if  the  seeds  of  such  are  permitted  to  ripen  and  fall, 
the  dung  when  carried  into  the  garden  will  poison  the  whole  ground. 
The  manure  produced  by  the  heaps  of  weeds  taken  out  of  the  garden, 
should  not  be  introduced  therein  again,  until  it  is  three  or  four  years 
old,  lest  the  seeds  which  happened  to  ripen  should  stock  the  ground 
afresh. 


THE   FRUIT    GARDEN. 

The  care  of  your  wall  and  espalier  fruit-trees,  &c.,  being  the  same 
in  this  month  as  directed  in  the  former,  page  465, 1  refer  you  there- 
to to  avoid  repetition. 

Should  any  of  the  shoots  be  displaced  by  winds  or  other  accidents, 
let  them  be  immediately  made  fast  again  in  a  secure  and  neat 
manner. 

FIG-TREES. 

The  wall  and  espalier  fig-trees  will  now  be  ripening  their  fruit ; 
they  should  be  kept  neatly  trained,  but  the  knife  must  not  be  used 
except  to  the  fore-right  and  other  irregular  productions,  as  it  is  from 
the  young  shoots  of  this  season's  growth  that  you  are  to  expect  fruit 
next  year ;  and  these  bearing  principally  towards  their  extremities, 
ought  not  to  be  shortened.  Lay  in  the  shoots  regularly,  not  across 
one  another,  and  let  them  be  well  secured,  for  the  wind  and  rain 
have  great  power  over  them  on  account  of  their  broad  leaves. 

BUDDING. 

For  the  budding  necessary  to  be  done  in  this  month,  see  the 
nursery  department. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

Such  of  your  standard  peach  and  other  trees  as  are  overburthened 
with  fruit,  and  likely  to  break  down,  should  be  supported  with  sub- 
stantial stakes,  to  which  the  pending  branches  ought  to  be  bound  by 
strong  hay-bands,  taking  care  to  place  part  thereof  between  each 
stake  and  the  branch  lest  the  bark  should  be  injured  :  these  supports 
are  to  be  taken  away  as  soon  as  the  fruit  are  off.  See  the  article 
Orchard,  on  page  466 ;  what  is  there  directed  is  very  applicable  at 
this  time. 


490  THE  VINEYARD. — THE  NURSERY.  [AUG. 


THE   VINEYAKD. 

Keep  your  vines  in  neat,  regular  order,  trained  up  and  tied  to  the 
poles,  and  suffer  none  to  trail  upon  the  ground;  by  this  means  the 
influence  of  the  sun  and  free  air  will  be  admitted  to  the  fruit,  which 
are  essentially  necessary  to  its  timely  maturity. 

You  should  now  be  very  particular  in  keeping  the  ground  between 
the  vines  free  from  weeds ;  for  at  this  time  a  clean  surface  answers, 
in  a  great  degree,  to  reflect  the  sun's  heat  upon  the  vines  and  fruit, 
which  will  cause  them  to  ripen  soon,  and  acquire  an  improved  rich- 
ness of  taste  and  flavor ;  and  besides,  neither  the  vines  nor  fruit  will 
be  so  subject  to  contract  mildew,  as  if  the  vapors  and  damps  were 
confined  round  them  by  weeds,  or  by  their  own  branches  laying  trail- 
ing about.  Some  of  the  early  sorts  of  grapes  will  begin  to  ripeu 
about  the  end  of  this  month,  but  the  general  vintage  may  be  ex- 
pected some  time  in  September,  early  or  late,  according  to  the 
season. 

Continue  to  divest  the  main  shoots  of  all  young  side  productions, 
but  be  careful  not  to  pull  off  or  injure  the  leaves.  Such  fruit  bear- 
ing branches  as  were  topped,  ought  to  be  likewise  divested  of  young 
shoots  as  they  are  produced,  at  least  of  the  greater  number. 


THE    NURSERY. 


BUDDING. 

This  is  the  proper  season  for  budding  or  inoculating  peaches,  nec- 
tarines, almonds,  apples,  and  pears ;  also  apricots  on  peach  or  almond 
stalks ;  but  when  the  apricot  is  to  be  worked  on  the  plum,  it  ought 
to  be  done  in  July. 

Cherries,  plums,  or  any  other  fruit-trees  may  also  be  budded  in 
this  month,  if  the  bark  parts  freely  from  the  stalk.  Pears  ought  to 
be  inoculated  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  or  while  the  sap  flows 
freely;  but  the  peach,  nectarine,  almond,  and  apple  will  succeed  any 
time  between  the  first  of  August  and  twentieth  of  September,  pro- 
vided that  the  stalks  are  young  and  vigorous. 

You  may  now  inoculate  all  such  curious  trees  and  shrubs  as  you 
wish  to  propagate  in  that  way ;  there  are  very  few  but  will  succeed 
at  this  time  if  worked  on  good  and  suitable  stalks ;  but  when  you 
find  the  bark  not  to  part  or  rise  freely,  it  will  be  almost  in  vain  to 
attempt  the  work.  Many  kinds  now  take  "a  second  growth,  and  when 
that  is  perceivable  it  will  be  a  very  proper  time  to  inoculate  them. 
For  general  instructions  on  this  subject  see  page  467. 


AUG.]  THE  NURSERY.  491 


NEW  BUDDED  TREES. 

You  should  now  look  carefully  over  the  stalks  which  were  budded 
in  July,  and  in  three  weeks,  or  at  most  a  month  after  their  being 
worked,  loosen  the  bandages,  lest  the  buds  should  be  pinched  there- 
by; and  where  there  are  any  shoots  produced  below  the  buds,  they 
should  be  rubbed  off.  You  ought,  also,  to  examine  the  trees  which 
were  budded  in  the  former  year,  or  grafted  in  the  spring,  and  cut  off 
all  the  shoots  that  are  produced  beneath  the  inoculations  or  grafts ; 
for  if  these  are  permitted  to  grow  they  will  starve  the  proper  shoots. 

PRESERVING  THE  STONES  OP  FRUITS. 

Preserve  peach,  plum,  cherry,  and  apricot  stones,  &c.,  to  sow  for 
raising  stocks  to  bud  and  graft  on.  These  may  either  be  sown  im- 
mediately, or  preserved  till  October  or  any  of  the  following  months, 
in  common  garden  earth  or  moist  sand ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to 
embrace  the  first  opportunity  in  spring,  if  not  before,  to  sow  them 
before  the  stones  open  and  the  radicles  begin  to  shoot,  otherwise  a 
great  number  of  these  would  be  injured  in  the  act  of  sowing.  You 
may  mix  the  stones  with  either  earth  or  sand,  which  put  into  garden 
pots  or  boxes,  and  plunge  these  to  their  edges,  and  no  deeper,  in  some 
dry  border,  till  the  time  of  sowing.  Every  day  that  they  are .  kept 
out  of  the  ground  is  an  injury  to  them,  and  if  preserved  in  a  dry 
state  till  spring,  very  few  will  vegetate  for  a  year  after,  and  the  far 
greater  number  not  at  all. 

WEED  AND  WATER  SEEDLINGS,  ETC. 

The  seedling  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds  must  now  be  kept  per- 
fectly clean  from  weeds;  for  these,  if  permitted  to  grow  among  the 
young  plants,  would  totally  ruin  them. 

In  dry  weather  you  must  be  careful  to  give  frequent  waterings  to 
the  seedling  plants,  whether  in  beds,  boxes,  or  pots,  according  to  their 
respective  necessities. 

Keep  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  trees  well  hoed,  and  train 
up  the  various  sorts  of  forest-trees  and  shrubs  for  the  several  pur- 
poses for  which  they  are  designed;  but  do  not  trim  the  stems  of  stand- 
ard trees  too  close,  for  it  is  necessary  to  leave  some  small  shoots  to 
detain  the  sap  for  the  purpose  of  strengthening  those  parts. 

PREPARING  GROUND  FOR  AUTUMN  PLANTING. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  you  should  begin  to  clear  and 
trench  the  vacant  quarters  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  fruit-stocks, 
or  trees  or  shrubs  of  any  kind,  in  October  or  November,  &c.,  that 
the  rain  may  soak  and  mellow  the  ground  before  the  season  of  plant- 
ing ;  and  if  the  land  be  of  a  stiff  nature,  the  laying  of  it  up  in  high 
sloping  ridges,  by  exposing  more  surface  to  the  sun,  rain,  and  dews, 
will  greatly  improve  it,  and  it  can  be  the  more  expeditiously  levelled 
down  and  rendered  in  a  fit  condition  for  planting,  when  necessary. 


492  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [AUG. 


THE  PLEASURE,   OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS. 

Transplant  the  layers  and  pipings  of  carnations  and  pinks  that  are 
sufficiently  rooted,  and  treat  them  in  every  respect  as  directed  on  page 
472,  which  see.  You  may  yet  lay  pinks  and  carnations,  if  omitted 
in  June  and  July,  taking  care  to  keep  the  earth  moderately  moist 
about  them  till  well  rooted;  but  it  would  be  much  better  to  have 
done  this  in  the  beginning  of  July,  as  in  that  case  the  layers  would 
be  strong  and  well  established  before  winter.  For  the  method,  see 
page  449. 

AURICULAS  AND  POLYANTHUSES. 

The  first  week  in  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  to  shift  into 
fresh  compost  such  of  your  choice  auriculas  as  were  not  new  potted 
in  April  or  May;  for  which  compost,  and  the  method  of  shifting, 
see  page  359,  &c.  You  may  at  the  same  time  take  off  any  strong 
slips  that  have  fibres  attached  to  them,  and  plant  them  as  there 
directed ;  this  fresh  earth  will  strengthen  the  plants  greatly,  and  im- 
prove their  flowers  the  following  spring.  All  your  auriculas  will 
require,  at  this  season,  is  to  be  kept  where  they  can  be  free  from  the 
mid- day  sun,  and  enjoy  that  of  the  morning  till  nine  or  ten  o'clock, 
and  that  of  the  afternoon  after  four  or  five. 

The  choice  polyanthuses,  under  similar  circumstances,  should  be 
treated  in  every  respect  as  recommended  for  the  auriculas. 

Transplant  auricula  and  polyanthus  seedlings,  as  directed  on  pages 
359  and  360,  observing  to  give  them  proper  shade  and  occasional 
waterings,  and  also  to  close  the  earth  well  about  their  roots,  other- 
wise the  worms  will  draw  them  out  of  the  ground. 

REMOVING  AND  PLANTING  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  in  July,  you  should 
plant  all  the  autumn  flowering  bulbs  which  you  have  yet  out  of 
ground ;  such  as  crocuses,  colchicums,  autumnal  narcissuses,  amaryl- 
lises,  &c.,  and  likewise  any  spring  flowering  bulbs  that  do  not  agree 
with  being  kept  too  long  in  a  dry  state ;  as  fritillaries,  crown  impe- 
rials, snow-drops,  spring  crocuses,  martagons,  red  and  white  lilies, 
bulbous  irises,  &c.  Any  of  the  latter  kinds  may  now  be  taken  up 
and  immediately  transplanted ;  but  this  should  be  done  early  in  the 
month,  before  they  begin  to  push  out  new  fibres  ;  after  which  they 
would  be  considerably  weakened  by  a  removal.  You  may  also  at  this 
time  take  up,  separate,  and  transplant  the  roots  of  paeonias,  flag  irises, 
and  any  other  hardy  kinds  of  fleshy  or  tuberous-rooted  flowers,  whose 
leaves  are  now  decayed.  When  the  roots  are  taken  up  the  small 
offsets  should  be  separated  and  planted  in  beds,  to  increase  the  kinds, 


AUG.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  493 

and  the  large  roots  replanted  in  any  beds  or  borders  where  wanted 
for  flowering.  Each  respective  kind  is  to  be  covered  from  two  to 
four  inches  deep,  generally  in  proportion  to  the  size  and  strength  of 
the  roots. 


TRANSPLANTING  SEEDLING  PERENNIALS  AND  BIENNIALS. 

Transplant  into  nursery-beds  the  seedlings  of  the  various  kinds  of 
perennial  and  biennial  flowers  that  are  now  of  a  proper  size,  as  directed 
on  page  452 ;  or  such  may  now  be  planted  finally  where  they  are  to 
flower  next  season.  As  the  wall-flower  and  stock-gilly  flower  plants 
will,  in  the  middle  and  eastern .  States,  require  some  protection  in 
winter,  such  should  now  be  transplanted  into  pots,  or  into  beds  where 
frames  may  be  placed  over  them,  on  the  approach  of  severe  frosts. 


SOWING  SEEDS  OF  BULBOUS-ROOTED  FLOWERS. 

The  seeds  of  tulips,  hyacinths,  narcissuses,  irises,  crown  imperials, 
fritillaries  and  lilies,  or  of  and  other  kinds  of  bulbs,  whose  seeds  are 
ripe,  may  now  be  sown,  in  order  to  obtain  new  varieties.  These,  if 
sown  as  soon  after  being  ripe  as  they  are  sufficiently  dry  and  hardened, 
will  vegetate  the  ensuing  spring;  but  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till 
that  period,  very  few  of  them  will  come  up  for  a  full  year  after. 
(For  the  method  of  sowing  the  seeds,  &c.,  see  the  Flower  Garden 
for  next  month.) 


PROPAGATING  FIBROUS-ROOTED  PERENNIAL  PLANTS. 

Most  of  the  early  flowering  fibrous-rooted  plants,  whose  flower- 
stems  have  been  cut  down  in  June  or  July  will,  some  time  in  this 
month,  have  thrown  up  new  suckers  from  the  roots ;  then  such  may 
be  carefully  taken  off  and  planted  in  nursery  beds ;  or  the  whole  roots 
may,  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  be  taken  up  and  divided  into 
many  separate  parts,  taking  care  to  do  it  in  such  a  manner  as  that 
every  plant  or  part,  so  separated,  may  be  furnished  with  roots.  Trim 
or  cut  off  from  each  slip,  or  part,  any  long  or  bruised  roots ;  pick  off 
all  decayed  or  declining  leaves,  and  plant  the  sets  or  divisions  in  a 
shady  border,  or  where  they  can  be  conveniently  covered  with  mats 
or  other  covering  till  newly  rooted. 

They  should  be  watered  immediately,  and  that  repeated  from  time 
to  time,  till  they  are  well  taken  with  the  ground,  and  in  a  free  grow- 
ing state. 

Pinks,  sweet-william,  rose- campion,  scarlet  lychnis,  gentianella, 
polyanthuses,  primroses,  double  daisies,  double  chamomile,  double 
perennial  catchfly,  double  ragged-robin,  perennial  cyanus,  monardas, 
penstemons,  phloxes,  violas,  campanulas,  dracocephalums,  spiraea 
trifoliata,  and  various  other  kinds,  may  now  be  propagated  in  this  way. 


494  THE  PLEASURE,  OE  FLOWER  GARDEN.  [AUG. 

COLLECTING  FLOWERING  PLANTS  FROM  THE  WOODS,  FIELDS,  AND 
SWAMPS. 

Many  beautiful  ornamental  plants  may  now  be  collected  from  the 
woods,  fields,  and  swamps,  which  would  grace  and  embellish  the  flower 
garden  and  pleasure  grounds,  if  introduced  thereinto :  and  that  at  a 
season  when  the  general  run  of  cultivated  flowers  are  out  of  bloom : 
such  as  lobelias  of  various  kinds,  aletris  farinosa,  asclepiases  in  sorts, 
asters,  cassia  marilandica,  chelones,  cucubalus  stellatus,  cypripediums, 
dodecatheon  meadia,  dracocephalums,  eupatoriums,  euphorbias,  and 
galega  virginiana ;  gentianas,  hardy  herbaceous  geraniums,  gerardias, 

lycines,  gnaphaliums,   hedysarums,   helianthuses   and   heucheras ; 

ibiscuses,  hypoxises,  irises,  liatrises,  lysimachias,  melanthiums,  mo- 
nardas,  napaeas,  and  ophryses ;  orchises,  oxalises,  podalyrias,  penste- 
mons,  phloxes,  polygala  senega,  rhexias,  rudbeckias,  sarrasenias  and 
saxifragas ;  sylphiums,  sisyrinchiums,  solidagoes,  spigelia  marilan- 
dica, trilliums,  veratrums,  and  veronicas;  limadorum  tuberosum, 
lilium  superbum  and  canadense,  erythronium  americanum,  together 
with  an  immense  number  of  other  delightful  plants. 

All  the  above,  and  any  other  kinds  you  meet  with,  that  are  worthy 
of  notice,  may  be  taken  up,  whether  in  or  out  of  flower,  with  balls 
of  earth,  brought  home,  and  planted  immediately;  on  taking  them 
up,  cut  off  the  flower-stems,  if  any,  and  when  planted  give  water  and 
shade  for  a  few  days  to  the  fibrous-rooted  kinds ;  next  year  they  will 
flower  luxuriantly,  after  which,  each  sort  may  be  propagated  in  its 
proper  season.  Observe  in  planting,  to  give  each  respective  kind  a 
soil  and  situation  as  nearly  similar  as  possible  to  that  in  which  you 
found  it  in  its  wild  state. 

FLOWERING  PLANTS   IN  POTS. 

Such  annual  and  other  flowering  plants  as  are  in  pots  must  now 
be  carefully  supplied  with  water,  some  kinds  requiring  it  twice  a  day 
in  very  dry  weather,  others  once  a  day,  and  a  few  sorts  not  so  often. 
As  to  the  consumption  of  water,  there  is  an  astonishing  difference  in 
the  constitutions  of  plants,  some  absorbing  and  discharging  it  so 
quickly  as  to  excite  surprise,  and  others  but  very  slowly ;  therefore 
you  must  supply  each  respective  kind  according  to  its  habit  and 
necessity. 

ORDINARY  ATTENDANCE. 

Give  water  as  often  as  necessary  to  all  the  young  plantations  of 
herbaceous  flower-roots ;  cut  down  the  stems  of  such  as  are  past 
bloom;  loosen  the  earth  in  the  tops  of  all  your  pots  containing 
flowering-plants;  clip  hedges,  if  omitted  in  the  last  month;  clip 
box  edgings,  and  trim  the  various  other  kinds  used  for  that  purpose 
into  a  neat  and  becoming  form ;  but  let  this  be  done  early  in  the 
month,  and  if  possible  in  moist  and  cloudy  weather.  Mow  grass- 
walks  and  lawns  once  a  week  or  fortnight,  according  to  the  growth 


AUG.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  495 

of  the  grass.  S.weep,  dress,  and  roll  the  gravel- walks  once  a  week ; 
hoe  and  clean  the  flower-borders,  beds,  alleys,  and  shrubbery  com- 
partments; and  let  the  weeds  be  raked  up  and  carried  away  imme- 
diately out  of  the  garden,  &c.  Trim  and  tie  up  any  loose  growing 
or  straggling  plants ;  dress  disorderly  growing  shrubs,  and  inoculate 
such  kinds  as  you  wish  to  propagate  in  that  way. 

Gather  flower-seeds  as  they  ripen  and  preserve  them  till  the  sea- 
son of  sowing ;  most  kinds  will  keep  better  and  longer  in  their  pods 
or  husks  than  when  rubbed  out. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 


SHIFTING   AND    GIVING   FRESH   EARTH   TO   THE   PLANTS. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  you  may  shift 
into  larger  pots,  &o.  young  oranges,  lemons,  citrons,  and  shaddocks, 
and  also  such  other  plants  as  are  too  much  confined,  and  that  have 
perfected  their  spring  or  summer  shoots  previous  to  their  beginning 
to  push  their  autumn  growths ;  such  is  the  critical  period  in  which 
plants  ought  to  have  a  summer  shifting,  and  should  be  particularly 
noticed  in  any  climate  or  country  where  such  practice  is  necessary. 
Let  this  operation  be  performed  as  directed  on  page  375 ;  after  which 
treat  the  plants  as  recommended  on  page  478. 

Loosen  the  earth  in  the  tops  of  such  pots  or  tubs  as  it  appears 
hard  or  stiff  in,  and  add  some  fresh  compost  thereto,  if  not  done  last 
month;  this  and  the  picking  off  of  any  decayed  leaves,  together 
with  the  trimming  of  disorderly  branches,  will  give  a  fresh  and 
pleasing  appearance  to  the  collection,  add  to  the  beauty,  and  promote 
the  vigorous  growth  of  the  plants. 

PROPAGATING  THE  PLANTS. 

You  may  still  continue  to  propagate  various  kinds  of  plants  by 
cuttings,  layers,  and  suckers,  as  directed  in  the  former  months. 


BUDDING   ORANGES   AND   LEMONS,  ETC. 

Any  time  this  month  you  may  successfully  bud  oranges,  lemons, 
citrons,  limes,  and  shaddocks;  beginning  in  the  first  week  thereof 
and  continuing  to  the  end ;  observing  to  work  each  tree  as  you  per- 
ceive it  to  put  forth  its  fresh  autumn  shoots ;  some  trees,  even  of 
the  same  species,  will  produce  those  earlier  or  later  in  the  month, 
and  so  soon  as  you  perceive  a  few  of  them  grown  to  two  or  three 
inches  in  length,  seize  upon  that  time  to  perform  the  operation,  as 
then  the  sap  being  in  a  fresh  state  of  circulation,  the  bark  of  the 
stock  will  separate  freely  for  the  reception  of  the  bud,  and  the  ne- 
cessary nourishment  will  be  copiously  supplied. 

Observe  at  this  time  to  take  the  buds  from  shoots  produced  in 


496  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [AUG. 

the  early  part  of  the  present  season.  The  proper t  stocks  are  those 
raised  from  the  kernels  of  either  of  the  species.  For  the  methods 
of  budding,  and  general  observations  on  that  subject,  see  page 
467,  &c. 

It  will  be  very  proper  on  budding  those,  or  any  other  kinds  of 
plants  in  pots,  to  place  them  in  the  shade  for  three  or  four  weeks, 
after  the  operation  is  performed ;  or  at  least  to  turn  the  budded  side 
of  each  plant  to  the  north,  in  order  to  avoid  the  drying  influence  of 
the  sun. 

Cut  off  oranges,  lemons,  jasmins,  and  other  exotics,  which  were 
inarched  in  April  or  May,  provided  that  you  find  them  sufficiently 
united.  For  the  method  of  doing  this,  see  the  article  grafting  by 
approach,  or  inarching,  on  page  267. 

WATERING. 

Carefully  attend  to  the  watering  of  all  the  plants,  giving  it  to 
each  as  often  as  necessary,  and  in  proportion  to  its  consumption,  ob- 
serving always  to  administer  it  sparingly  to  the  succulent  kinds. 

The  pouring  of  water,  occasionally,  through  the  rose  of  a  watering- 
pot,  over  the  branches  of  the  shrubby  kinds  would  greatly  refresh 
them,  and  wash  off  the  dust  collected  on  the  leaves,  which  would 
give  them  a  clean  and  pleasing  appearance;  but  this  should  be  done 
late  in  the  evening,  when  the  sun  has  lost  its  power  for  the  day. 

Such  pots  as  are  plunged,  must  be  turned  full  around  in  their 
seats  at  least  once  a  week,  to  prevent  the  roots  penetrating  into  the 
surrounding  earth,  through  the  holes  in  the  bottoms  of  the  pots. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

PINE-APPLES. 

The  care  of  the  fruiting  pines  being  the  same  in  this  month  as  in 
the  last,  is  unnecessary  to  be  repeated;  as  likewise  the  propagation  of 
the  plants  by  crowns  and  suckers,  as  well  as  the  shifting  of  those 
succession  pines  which  are  expected  to  produce  fruit  next  season. 

Let  this  shifting,  where  neglected  last  month,  be  done,  if  possible, 
in  the  first  or  second  week  of  this,  that  the  plants  may  have  time  to 
establish  strong  roots,  and  to  be  advanced  in  free  and  vigorous  growth 
before  winter.  (For  the  method  of  shifting,  see  page  483.) 

Besides  the  watering  of  the  pine  plants  in  the  common  way,  it 
will  be  of  great  service  to  them  in  very  warm  weather,  to  water  the 
walks  and  flues  of  the  hot-house  occasionally ;  this  should  always  be 
done  late  in  the  evening,  and  the  glasses  ought  to  be  immediately 
closed.  The  great  heat  of  the  house  will  exhale  the  moisture,  and 
raise  a  kind  of  artificial  dew,  which  will  soon  stand  in  drops  on  the 
glasses ;  the  leaves  of  the  pine  being  succulent,  they  will  imbibe  the 
watery  particles  and  be  greatly  benefited  thereby. 


AUG.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  497 


RAISING    THE   PINE   EROM    SEED. 

New  varieties  of  the  pine  may  be  obtained  from  seeds,  and  when 
such  is  found  in  the  fruit,  which  is  very  uncommon,  even  in  the 
West  Indies,  they  should  be  carefully  preserved  in  dry  sand  till 
March,  when  they  will  vegetate  and  succeed  better  than  if  sown  at 
an  earlier  period.  The  pots  for  this  purpose  should  be  then  filled  to 
within  an  inch  of  their  rims,  with  light  rich  earth,  and  plunged  into 
a  warm  part  of  the  tan-bed  for  a  day  or  two  before  sowing  the  seeds, 
which  should  be  placed  therein,  about  an  inch  apart,  and  covered  not 
more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  Cover  the  pots  immediately 
with  pieces  of  glass  that  will  fit  the  tops  very  close ;  this,  by  prevent- 
ing the  mould  from  drying  and  giving  an  additional  heat  to  it  near 
the  surface,  will  soon  cause  the  seeds  to  vegetate.  After  the  plants 
appear  sprinkle  them  over  with  water  occasionally  ;  as  they  advance 
in  size  give  them  increased  portions  of  air  and  water,  and  by  the 
time  they  have  five  or  six  leaves,  they  will  be  able  to  withstand  the 
general  air  of  the  hot-house. 

By  the  end  of  August  these  seedlings  will  be  grown  to  a  proper 
size  for  transplanting ;  when  they  should  be  put  into  small  pots,  filled 
with  the  same  mould  recommended  for  crowns  and  suckers  on  page 
481 ;  and  from  that  time  their  treatment  requires  no  difference  from 
that  of  those. 

SHIFTING   THE   VARIOUS   EXOTICS,  ETC. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  season  for  the  shift- 
ing of  aloes,  sedums,  cactuses,  mesembryanthemums,  and  all  other 
succulent  exotics ;  they  will  now  take  fresh  root  sooner  than  at  any 
other  time  of  the  year;  you  should  at  the  same  time  take  off  any  off- 
sets that  may  be  produced,  and  plant  them  into  small  pots  filled  with 
fresh  sandy  earth,  placing  them  where  they  may  have  only  the  morn- 
ing sun  for  ten  or  twelve  days,  and  observe  to  refresh  them,  now  and 
then,  with  a  little  water. 

The  several  kinds  of  tender  exotics  that  require  it,  should  now  be 
shifted,  in  order  to  establish  strong  and  fresh  roots  before  winter ; 
observing  to  place  them  in  the  shade  immediately  after,  till  they  shall 
have  recovered  the  check  occasioned  by  the  removal.  This  work 
should  be  performed  early  in  the  month;  for  if  they  are  shifted  too 
late  in  the  season,  they  do  not  recover  before  the  cold  comes  on, 
which  checks  their  growth,  prevents  their  free  rooting,  and  conse- 
quently renders  them  not  so  well  prepared  to  maintain  themselves  in 
winter,  as  if  done  at  an  early  period;  and  many  kinds  that  have 
stood  too  long  in  the  same  pots  without  shifting,  will  have  their  roots 
so  matted,  as  to  grow  mouldy  in  winter  and  decay ;  which  has  often 
been  destructive  to  many  choice  plants. 

The  other  plants,  which  do  not  require  shifting  at  this  season,  should 
have  some  of  the  earth  taken  out  of  the  tops  of  the  pots,  if  not  done 
last  month,  and  replaced  with  fresh  compost ;  this  will  greatly  en- 
courage their  autumn  growth,  and  should  not  be  neglected. 
32 


498  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [SEPT. 

The  regular  watering  of  the  plants  must  now  be  duly  attended  to, 
for  one  day's  neglect,  at  this  season,  might  destroy  many  of  your 
most  valuable  plants.  Keep  all  the  collection  free  from  decayed 
leaves,  and  such  pots  as  are  plunged  in  the  earth  must  be  turned  quite 
round  in  their  seats  once  a  week,  for  the  reasons  mentioned  in  the 
preceding  months. 

Keep  all  the  pots  and  tubs  free  from  weeds,  and  continue  to  pro- 
pagate the  various  kinds  by  suckers,  layers,  or  cuttings.. 


LABELLING  THE  PLANTS. 

In  large  collections  all  the  plants  should  be  labelled,  having  the 
generic  and  specific  name  of  the  plant  on  each  label.  These  may 
be  made  of  small  slips  of  pine  or  cedar,  each  from  six  to  ten  inches 
long,  near  an  inch  broad  at  top,  tapering  to  a  point  at  the  lower 
end,  and  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  "When  the  sticks  are 
ready,  the  parts  to  be  written  on  should  be  rubbed  lightly  with 
white  oil  paint;  then  with  a  black  lead  pencil,  while  yet  wet, 
write  the  generic  and  specific  name  of  the  plant  thereon,  which  will 
soon  dry  and  become  completely  permanent ;  the  label  is  then  to  be 
stuck  into  the  pot  near  the  rim,  and  so  deep  as  to  leave  the  writing 
easy  to  be  seen.  These  labels  will  continue  good  for  three  years,  or 
longer. 


SEPTEMBER. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

SOME  persons  who  write  on  gardening,  content  themselves  by 
simply  saying  that  such  a  thing  should  be  sown  in  such  a  month  ; 
this  gives  a  latitude  in  the  present,  of  thirty  days,  so  that  an  inex- 
perienced person  may  be  led  to  think  that  he  is  within  due  bounds, 
if  he  sows  on  the  30th  of  September  what  ought  to  have  been  sown 
in  the  first  week,  perhaps  about  the  first  day  thereof,  whilst  expe- 
rienced gardeners  well  know  that  a  difference  of  three  or  four  days, 
particularly  in  this  month,  makes  a  greater  odds,  in  crops,  than  most 
people  could  imagine  would  be  consequent  on  the  difference  of  as 
many  weeks. 

I  am  not  an  advocate  for  sowing  seeds  on  a  particular  day  of  the 
week  or  month,  nor  in  the  full  or  wane  of  the  moon,  nor  when  the 
wind  blows  from  the  east,  west,  or  any  particular  point  of  the  com- 
pass; these  ridiculous  and  superstitious  notions  have  been  long 
since  deservedly  banished  out  of  the  well-informed  world ;  but  in 
this  month,  above  all  others  in  the  year,  there  is  an  absolute  neces- 
sity of  sowing  certain  crops  within  a  few  days  of  particular  periods, 
in  order  to  insure  the  best  possible  success,  so  that  the  plants  may 


SEPT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  499 

not  become  too  strong  before  winter,  and  consequently  be  subject 
to  start  to  seed  early  in  spring,  previously  to  their  attaining  due 
perfection,  nor  be  too  weakly  to  endure  the  severities  of  the  ensuing 
winter. 

SPINAGE. 

Hoe  and  clean  your  advancing  crops  of  spinage,  and  let  the  plants 
be  thinned  out  to  proper  distances  in  order  to  afford  sufficient  room 
for  the  production  of  large  succulent  leaves. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month  prepare  some  good  dry  ground  for 
a  full  crop  of  spinage  for  winter  and  spring  use.  In  the  eastern 
States,  particularly,  this  work  should  not  be  delayed  later,  nor,  in- 
deed, in  the  middle  States,  if  it  can  be  well  avoided  ;  but  in  a  fa- 
vorable season,  and  a  warm  soil  and  exposure,  it  may  succeed  very 
well  in  the  middle  States  if  sown  so  late  as  the  fifteenth  or  even  the 
twentieth  of  the  month  ;  the  more  to  the  southward,  the  later  it  may 
be  sown. 

The  best  sort  to  endure  cold  is  the  prickly  seeded  kind,  which  is 
what  most  people  sow  at  this  season,  it  being  much  hardier  than 
the  round  seeded  sort ;  of  this  there  are  two  or  three  varieties,  dif- 
fering only  in  the  size  of  their  leaves;  but  the  largest  and  most 
profitable  sort  is  what  gardeners  call  the  burdock  spinage.  A  thin 
sprinkling  of  the  brown  Dutch  and  hardy  green  cabbage  lettuces  may 
be  sown  among  the  spinage,  and  if  the  winter  is  any  way  favorable 
you  may  have  some  good  plants  from  these  to  transplant  early  in 
spring  for  heading.  A  few  of  the  early  short-top  salmon  and  white 
turnip-rooted  radishes  may  also  be  sown  among  the  spinage  for  use 
in  October  and  November.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  drills  about  twelve 
inches  distant  from  one  another,  or  broadcast,  and  tread  it  in,  then 
rake  the  ground  effectually  so  as  to  cover  the  seed  well;  or  if  it  be 
cultivated  on  a  large  scale  it  may  be  harrowed  in  with  a  light  har- 
row, wrong  end  foremost. 

When  the  plants  are  up,  and  have  got  leaves  an  inch  broad  or  a 
little  better,  they  must  be  thinned,  either  by  hand  or  hoe,  to  three  or 
four  inches  asunder,  and  the  weeds  effectually  cleared  away  from 
among  them ;  by  this  treatment  the  plants  will  get  stalky,  gather 
strength,  and  be  the  better  able  to  stand  the  winter  frosts. 


LETTUCES. 

The  various  kinds  of  lettuces  sown  last  month  should  be  planted 
out  as  early  in  this  as  they  have  attained  to  a  proper  size  for  that 
purpose;  let  them  be  set  in  beds  of  good,  well  prepared  ground, 
about  ten  inches  asunder,  and  watered  immediately,  which  should  be 
frequently  repeated  if  the  weather  proves  dry. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month  prepare  a  dry,  warm,  well  sheltered 
south  border,  on  which  to  plant  the  lettuces  sown  in  the  latter  part  of 
August,  for  standing  over  wkater  for  spring  use.  Take  up  the  best 
plants  from  the  seed-bed,  pick  off  the  decayed  leaves,  trim  the  ends 
of  their  roots,  and  plant  them  in  rows  six  inches  asunder  every  way ; 


500  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [SEPT. 

if  the  plants  survive  the  winter,  every  other  one  may  be  taken  up  in 
spring  and  planted  in  new  beds,  which  will  give  the  others  abundance 
of  room  to  grow  to  the  best  perfection.  They  are  to  be  protected 
during  winter  as  directed  in  November.  Sow  more  lettuce  seed  in 
the  first  week  of  this  month,  to  plant  out  in  the  beginning  of  Octo- 
ber, for  the  same  purpose.  The  kinds  proper  to  be  sown  now  are 
the  brown  Dutch  and  Hammersmith  hardy  green.  Also,  about  the 
middle  of  the  month,  sow  another  crop  of  the  same  kinds,  to  be 
planted  in  frames  in  October,  for  their  winter  preservation.  ' 

To  have  lettuces  in  good  perfection  in  November,  December,  and 
January,  you  should,  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  prepare 
one  or  more  beds  of  rich  earth,  in  a  warm  part  of  the  garden,  where 
the  ground  is  dry,  and  lies  well  to  the  sun.  Make  the  bed  or  beds 
the  length  and  width  of  one  or  more  cucumber  frames;  plant  therein 
some  good  plants,  and  give  them  water  occasionally  till  well  rooted 
and  growing  freely. 

Towards  the  middle  of  next  month,  when  the  nights  begin  to 
grow  cold,  place  the  frames  and  glasses  on  the  beds ;  keep  on  the 
glasses  every  night ;  but  let  them  be  kept  totally  off  in  the  day  time 
till  the  November  frosts  commence ;  after  which  you  must  be  go- 
verned by  circumstances,  always  admitting  as  much  air  every  day  as 
the  safety  and  free  growth  of  the  plants  will  warrant. 

SOWING  RADISH  SEED. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month  you  should  sow  a  good  supply  of 
the  early  short- top,  white  and  red  turnip-rooted  and  salmon  radishes; 
also,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  black  and  white  winter,  or  Spanish 
kinds ;  the  latter,  on  the  approach  of  frosts,  must  be  taken  up  and 
preserved  for  winter  use,  as  you  do  carrots  or  turnips. 

ENDIVE. 

As  early  in  the  month  as  possible,  transplant  a  full  crop  of  green 
curled  endive  for  late  autumn  and  winter  use;  let  this  be  done  as 
directed  on  page  460.  Tie  up  the  leaves  of  full  grown  endive  for 
blanching,  as  advised  on  page  486. 

CELERY  AND  CARDOONS. 

Earth  up  celery  as  it  advances  in  growth,  but  be  careful  to  avoid 
covering  the  hearts  of  the  plants ;  this  work  should  always  be  done 
in  a  dry  day;  lay  up  the  stalks  neatly  without  injuring  them,  for  if 
bruised  they  will  become  mouldy  and  be  subject  to  rot. 

If  your  crops  of  celery  be  scanty,  and  you  have  got  strong  plants, 
you  may,  about  the  first  of  this  month,  plant  them  out  in  trenches. 
Should  the  season  prove  very  favorable,  this  crop  may  succeed  toler- 
ably well. 

The  cardoons  will  now  be  considerably  advanced  in  growth,  and 
consequently  should  be  earthed  up  regularly  for  blanching ;  as  these 
plants  spread  considerably,  they  must  be  tied  up  neatly  with  bass 


SEPT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  501 

strings,  or  willow  twigs,  &c.,  but  not  too  close,  so  that  the  hearts  may 
freely  advance  in  growth  •  then  gather  the  earth  up  all  around  each 
plant,  first  breaking  it  fine,  and  as  you  lay  it  up,  pat  it  with  the  back 
of  the  spade  to  make  it  keep  its  place  and  cast  off  the  rain  :  as  the 
plants  progress  in  growth  continue  earthing  them  still  higher  till  well 
whitened  and  fit  for  use ;  on  the  approach  of  frost  they  may  be  pro- 
tected as  directed  in  November  for  celery,  if  not  made  use  of  before 
that  time. 


WINTER  CRESSES,  CORN-SALAD,  AND  CHERVIL. 

Sow  corn-salad  and  winter  cresses  the  beginning  of  this  month, 
if  not  done  in  August,  for  winter  and  early  spring  use ;  let  these  be 
sown  as  directed  on  page  488. '  Likewise,  sow  a  supply  of  chervil  for 
soups  and  salads ;  this  may  be  sown  in  drills  nine  or  ten  inches  asunder 
and  covered  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  or  broadcast  and 
raked  in. 

SMALL  SALADING. 

Continue  to  sow  once  every  ten  days  the  different  kinds  of  small 
salading  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months.  The  seeds  may  now 
be  sown  in  an  open  situation  where  the  earth  is  light  and  rich,  but 
what  you  sow  towards  the  end  of  the  month  should  have  a  warm  ex- 
posure. 

HOE   TURNIPS.     . 

As  your  crop  of  turnips  advances  in  growth,  hoe  and  thin  the 
plants  to  proper  distances ;  let  this  be  done  in  a  dry  day,  cutting  the 
weeds  up  clean  with  a  sharp  and  middle  sized  hoe. 

SOWING   CABBAGE    SEED. 

The  proper  period  for  sowing  cabbage  seed  in  the  middle  States,  to 
produce  early  summer  cabbages,  is  between  the  sixth  and  tenth  of 
this  month,  if  intended  to  be  transplanted  into  frames  in  October 
for  winter  protection,  which  is  the  most  preferable  method;  but  if 
they  are  designed  for  remaining  in  the  seed-beds  till  spring,  the 
period  is  between  the  fifteenth  and  twentieth.  However,  it  will  be 
very  proper  to  make  two  or  three  sowings  within  that  time,  as  it  is 
impossible  to  say  whether  the  fall  may  be  favorable  or  otherwise,  and 
therefore  the  better  way  is  to  be  prepared  in  either  case  by  successive 
crops. 

The  consequence  of  having  plants  too  forward  or  early  is,  that 
they  are  very  subject  to  run  to  seed  in  the  spring  soon  after  being 
planted  out ;  and  if  the  seeds  are  sown  too  late,  the  plants  do  not 
acquire  sufficient  strength  before  winter  to  withstand  its  rigor  with- 
out extraordinary  care.  But  in  either  case  there  is  a  remedy ;  that 
is,  if  the  plants  are  likely  to  become  too  luxuriant  and  strong,  trans- 
plant them  once  or  twice  in  October,  and  if  too  backward  and  weakly, 


502  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [SEPT. 

make  a  slight  hot-bed  towards  the  latter  end  of  that  month,  and 
prick  them  out  of  the  seed-bed  thereon ;  this  will  forward  them  con- 
siderably. 

At  all  events,  I  would  advise,  particularly  in  the  middle  States, 
the  first  sowing  to  be  made  about  the  tenth  or  before  it,  the  second 
four  days  after,  and  the  third  on  the  eighteenth  day  of  this  month, 
or  at  any  rate  within  two  or  three  days  of  these  periods ;  for  the  dif- 
ference occasioned  at  this  time  by  one  or  two  days  will  in  a  few  weeks 
be  very  perceivable  and  striking.  In  the  eastern  States,  the  first  of 
the  month  will  be  a  suitable  period  for  sowing  a  principal  crop. 

The  kinds  proper  to  be  sown  now  are  the  early  Enfield,  early  Y.ork, 
and  early  Battersea. 

Sow  these  seeds  in  beds  of  good  garden  mould,  and  either  cover 
or  rake  them  in  so  that  they  may  be  lodged  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  deep  ;  if  the  weather  should  prove  dry,  water  the  beds  occasion- 
ally in  the  evening  till  the  plants  are  up,  and  in  about  five  weeks 
they  will  be  fit  for  transplanting  into  their  winter  quarters,  as  di- 
rected in  October. 


SOWING    CAULIFLOWER    SEED. 

The  critical  period,  in  the  middle  States,  for  sowing  cauliflower 
seed,  is  between  the  twentieth  and  twenty-eighth  of  this  month ;  if 
sown  earlier  the  plants  would  be  very  subject  to  button  (as  the  gar- 
deners term  it)  or  flower  in  April  or  early  in  May,  which  flowers  sel- 
dom exceed  the  size  of  a  common  button,  and  thereby  the  hopes  and 
expectations  of  the  cultivator  are  lost. 

I  would  recommend  to  sow  the  seed  at  three  different  periods,  say 
the  twentieth,  twenty-fourth  and  twenty-eighth  of  this  month ;  for 
each  sowing  let  a  small  spot  of  rich  ground  be  neatly  dug,  mark  out 
the  bed  three  and  a  half  feet  wide,  and  immediately  sow  the  seed 
and  rake  it  in  carefully ;  or  you  may  first  rake  the  bed  smooth,  and 
with  the  back  of  the  rake  push  the  loose  mould  evenly  off"  the  sur- 
face for  near  half  an  inch  deep  into  the  alleys,  one  half  to  each  side, 
then  sow  the  seed,  and  with  a  spade  or  shovel  cast  this  shoved  off 
loose  earth  over  it  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  or  a  little  more, 
and  finish  by  picking  off  the  lumps  or  small  stones  with  your  hand, 
or  drawing  them  off  neatly  and  lightly  with  the  rake ;  or  you  may 
sow  the  seed  on  the  smooth  raked  surface,  and  sift  over  it  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  of  light  earth. 

Should  the  weather  prove  dry,  water  the  bed  both  before  and  after 
the  plants  are  up,  and  in  a  month  after  sowing  they  must  be  trans- 
planted into  beds  of  good  rich  earth,  covered  with  garden  frames,  at 
the  distance  of  three  inches  from  one  another,  there  to  remain  dur- 
ing winter,  and  to  be  taken  care  of  as  directed  in  the  following 
months. ' 

In  the  southern  States,  the  most  forward  of  these  may  be  finally 
planted  out  in  November,  as  directed  on  page  329,  and  covered  with 
bell  or  hand-glasses  during  winter;  but  in  the  middle  or  eastern 
States  this  practice  will  not  succeed  on  account  of  the  severity  of  the 
weather  at  that  season. 


SEPT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  503 

If  the  plants  should  happen  to  be  late  and  of  a  weakly  growth, 
when  you  are  planting  them  into  frames  in  the  latter  end  of  Octo- 
ber, let  a  trench  be  dug  about  ten  inches  deep  in  a  dry,  warm,  and 
well  sheltered  situation,  the  breadth  of  a  frame  and  the  length  of 
one,  two,  or  more,  according  to  the  quantity  of  plants ;  then  fill  it 
in  with  new  horse-dung  to  the  height  of  eighteen  inches  from  the 
bottom,  and  set  on  the  frame  j  earth  the  bed  over  five  or  six  inches 
deep  with  rich  earth,  and  set  the  plants  in  rows  three  inches  apart 
every  way,  immediately  give  them  a  moderate  watering  and  place 
on  the  glasses  ;  observing  to  leave  them  open  about  four  or  five  inches 
at  top  that  the  steam  may  pass  away. 

It  will  also  be  proper  to  lay  a  mat  over  the  glasses  in  sunny  wea- 
ther till  the  plants  have  taken  fresh  root ;  after  which  the  lights  must 
be  totally  taken  off  by  day  till  the  weather  becomes  too  severe,  and 
every  advantage  must  subsequently  be  taken  to  give  the  plants  as 
much  air  as  possible,  consistent  with  their  preservation. 

The  plants,  with  the  assistance  of  this  slight  bottom  heat,  will  soon 
take  root  and  be  greatly  forwarded  thereby,  so  as  to  acquire  a  due 
degree  of  strength  before  the  setting  in  of  very  severe  weather. 

Note. — Late  sown  cabbage  plants  would  be  greatly  benefited  by 
treating  them  as  directed  above  for  cauliflowers. 

LATE   CAULIFLOWERS   AND   BROCCOLI. 

If  the  weather  should  prove  dry,  give  occasional  waterings  to  the 
crops  of  late  cauliflowers  and  broccoli  which  you  expect  to  flower  in 
October,  &c.,  otherwise  the  heads  will  be  small,  especially  if  the  ground 
is  naturally  dry. 

SOWING  WELSH   ONION   SEED. 

Sow  some  Welsh  onion  seed  for  early  spring  salad,  &c.  This  kind 
never  bulbs  and  is  very  hardy ;  for  although  the  tops  will  sometimes 
die  down  in  winter,  yet  the  roots  will  continue  sound,  and  push  up 
new  leaves  on  the  eve  of  the  first  spring  vegetation. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  sow  this  seed  in  the  first  week  of  the  month 
on  beds  of  light  rich  ground,  in  a  warm  exposure,  and  afterwards  to 
keep  the  rising  plants  perfectly  free  from  weeds. 

MUSHROOMS. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  prepare  for  making  beds,  in  which  to  cul- 
tivate the  Agaricus  campestris,  Champignon,  or  common  mushroom. 
Of  two  hundred  and  thirteen  species  of  agaricus,  enumerated  by  Dr. 
Withering,  this  is  the  only  one  selected  for  cultivating  in  gardens. 
The  gills  of  this  are  loose,  of  a  pinky  red,  changing  to  liver  color,  in 
contact  but  not  united  with  the  stem ;  very  thick  set,  some  forked 
next  the  stem,  some  next  the  edge  of  the  cap,  some  at  both  ends ; 
and  generally  in  that  case  excluding  the  intermediate  smaller  gills. 
Cap,  white,  changing  to  brown  when  old,  and  becoming  scurfy,  fleshy, 
and  regularly  convex,  but  with  age  flat,  and  liquefying  in  decay; 


504  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [SEPT. 

flesh  white ;  diameter  commonly  from  one  inch  to  three  or  sometimes 
four  or  more.  Stem  solid,  one  to  three  inches  high,  and  about  half 
an  inch  in  diameter. 

I  consider  the  description  of  this  species  the  more  necessary,  as 
many  of  the  others  are  poisonous.  This  is  the  most  savory  of  the 
genus,  and  is  eaten  fresh,  either  stewed  or  boiled;  and  preserved 
either  as  a  pickle  or  in  powder.  The  sauce  commonly  called  catchup 
is  made  from  its  juice  with  salt  and  spices.  Dr.  Withering  asserts 
that  those  gathered  from  fresh  undunged  pastures  are  more  delicate 
than  those  which  are  raised  in  artificial  beds.  Mr.  Miller  is  of  a  dif- 
ferent opinion,  probably  because  the  cultivated  ones  are  more  sightly, 
and  may  be  collected  more  easily  in  a  proper  state  for  eating. 

It  will  be  necessary  in  the  early  part  of  this  month  to  provide  a 
quantity  of  fresh  horse-dung,  and  to  throw  it  up  in  a  heap,  out  of 
the  reach  of  rain,  to  ferment ;  when  it  has  lain  two  or  three  weeks, 
turn  it  again,  that  all  the  parts  may  be  equally  dried  and  fermented, 
and  the  violent  heat  passed  away.  In  this  state  it  should  remain  till 
about  the  first  week  of  October,  when  the  bed  is  to  be  made  as  di- 
rected in  that  month,  or  the  preparation  may  commence  in  August, 
and  the  beds  be  made  any  time  this  month  at  pleasure. 

The  reason  for  the  previous  preparation  of  the  dung  is  to  prevent 
a  too  violent  fermentation  when  the  bed  is  made,  which  would  totally 
destroy  the  spawn;  and,  moreover,  by  this  management  it  will  pre- 
serve a  slow  temperate  warmth  much  longer  than  if  put  together  when 
quite  fresh. 

You  must  likewise  provide  a  sufficiency  of  good  mushroom  spawn ; 
this  is  frequently  to  be  found  in  rich  pasture  fields,  old  mushroom 
beds,  old  cucumber  beds,  dung-hills  or  dungy  composts ;  but  that  of 
the  true  kind  from  the  pastures  or  old  mushroom  beds  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred ;  it  may  also  be  found  where  horses  are  employed  under  sheds 
in  turning  mills,  riding-houses,  livery-stable  yards,  &c. 

The  spawn  is  a  white  fibrous  substance,  running  and  spreading 
itself  in  the  rich  pasture  grounds  and  in  lumps  of  dryish  rotten  dung, 
and  if  of  the  true  sort,  has.  the  exact  smell  of  the  cultivated  kind.* 

Take  up  the  earth  or  dung  in  which  you  find  it  in  lumps,  observ- 
ing to  preserve  these  entire,  and  lay  them  in  a  dry  shady  place  till 
wanted ;  you  may  cover  them  with  straw  or  garden  mats,  for  much 
wet  would  totally  destroy  the  spawn.  But  if  the  pieces  are  wet  or 
very  damp  when  collected,  they  must  be  spread  to  dry  gradually  j 
the  spawn  is  seldom,  if  ever,  destroyed  by  drought,  especially  when 
mixed  with  earth  or  dung.  For  the  method  of  making  and  spawning 
the  bed,  &c.,  see  the  Kitchen  Garden  for  October. 

*  This  spawn  may  be  made  artificially.  Mix  together  equal  portions  of 
horse  and  cow  droppings,  and  turfy  sods ;  work  all  into  a  stiff  mortar  by 
the  addition  of  a  little  water.  Form  into  the  shape  and  size  of  common 
bricks,  dry  in  an  open  shed,  then  make  a  hole  in  each, 'on  the  side,  one 
inch  cubic  ;  place  in  this  a  small  piece  of  good  spawn,  and  plaster  up  with 
a  little  cow-dung ;  build  the  whole  in  a  heap,  and  cover  with  a  layer  of 
fresh  litter  from  the  stable ;  in  three  or  four  weeks  it  will  be  fit  for  use, 
and  will  keep  several  years. 


SEPT.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  505- 


GATHER    SEEDS. 


Gather  all  kinds  of  seeds  as  they  ripen,  which  may  be  necessary  in 
the  ensuing  season,  and  spread  them  to  dry  on  mats  or  cloths ;  when 
sufficiently  hardened,  beat  them  out  clean,  and  put  them  up  carefully 
till  wanted  for  sowing. 


PERENNIAL    HERBS. 


Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  safely  transplant 
all  kinds  of  hardy  perennial  pot,  aromatic  and  medicinal  herbs,  which 
will  take  fresh  root,  and  be  well  established  before  winter ;  but  this 
should  be  done,  if  possible,  in  moist  weather. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 


In  the  southern  States,  particularly  where  the  winters  are  mild, 
you  may  sow  at  this  time,  carrots  and  onions  for  early  spring  use,  as 
well  as  all  the  other  articles  recommended  to  be  sown  in  this  month; 
and  also  plant  out  late  crops  of  borecole,  broccoli,  celery,  cabbages 
for  winter,  coleworts,  endive,  &c.  &c. 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


FRUIT-TREES. 

Examine  your  wall  and  espalier  trees,  and  where  you  find  any  long 
loose  branches,  train  them  in  and  make  them  firm  in  their  proper 
places. 

The  early  kinds  of  fruit-trees  against  the  walls  of  your  forcing- 
houses  should,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  be  pruned  and  trained 
close  to  the  wall  or  trellis,  that  their  buds  may  be  preparing  before 
the  season  for  applying  artificial  heat. 

GATHERING  RIPE  FRUIT. 

Gather  apples  and  pears  as  they  ripen,  and  treat  them  as  directed 
under  the  head  Orchard,  for  next  month. 

PREPARE  FOR  PLANTING. 

Begin  towards  the  end  of  this  month  to  prepare  the  borders,  &c., 
in  which  you  intend  to  plant  fruit-trees,  in  October  or  November;  it 
is  of  consequence  to  add  a  good  supply  of  thoroughly  rotten  dung, 
and  to  trench  the  ground  to  the  depth  of  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet, 
provided  that  the  natural  good  soil  admits  thereof. 


506  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [SEPT. 


STRAWBERRIES. 

Of  the  Fragaria  vesca,  or  esculent  strawberry,  there  are  five  prin- 
cipal varieties  cultivated  in  gardens  for  their  very  delicious  fruit. 
1.  F.  virginiana,  or  scarlet  strawberry.  2.  F.  vesca  pratensis,  of 
Alton,  or  hautboy  strawberry.  3.  F.  Chiloensis,  or  Chili  straw- 
berry. 4.  F.  Alpina,  Alpine  or  monthly  strawberry,  and,  5,  F. 
Ananas,  or  pine-apple  strawberry.  There  are  besides  these,  the  va- 
rieties sylvestris,  or  common  wood  strawberry,  and  caroliniana,  or 
Carolina  strawberry,  with  many  others  arising  from  these,  differing 
principally  in  the  color  of  their  fruit. 

The  first,  or  scarlet  strawberry,  has  dark  green  leaves,  and  is  of  a 
more  even  surface  than  the  others ;  the  flowering  stems  are  shorter, 
and  the  fruit  is  frequently  concealed  among  the  leaves.  It  is  the 
earliest  in  ripening  its  fruit,  for  which  reason  it  merits  esteem,  had 
it  nothing  else  to  recommend  it;  but  the  fruit  is  so  good  as  to  be 
generally  preferred  to  most  others. 

The  second,  or  hautboy  strawberry,  has  larger  and  thicker  leaves 
than  the  scarlet,  oval-lanceolate,  and  rough ;  the  fruit  is  of  a  pale 
red,  much  larger  than  the  scarlet,  and  of  a  musky  flavor,  of  which  there 
are  several  varieties,  differing  in  shape  and  color,  but  that  called  the 
globe  hautboy  is  the  best  and  most  approved  fruit. 

The  third,  or  Chili  strawberry,  has  oval  hairy  leaves,  of  a  much 
thicker  substance  than  any  sort  yet  known,  and  stands  upon  very 
strong  hairy  footstalks ;  the  runners  from  the  plants  are  very  large, 
hairy,  and  extend  to  a  great  length,  putting  out  plants  at  several  dis- 
tances. The  peduncles  are  very  strong  ;  the  leaves  of  the  calyx  are 
long  and  hairy.  The  flowers  are  large  and  are  often  deformed,  and 
when  cultivated  in  strong  loamy  land,  the  plants  produce  plenty  of 
large,  firm,  well-flavored  fruit  j  in  a  light  soil  this  kind  is  not  gene- 
rally very  productive. 

The  fourth,  or  Alpine  strawberry,  has  small  oval  leaves,  small 
flowers,  and  middle-sized,  oblong,  pointed  fruit ;  the  plants  and  fruit 
are  considerably  larger  than  the  wood  strawberry,  and  are  parti- 
cularly valuable  for  their  continuing  to  bear  fruit  successively  from 
June  till  the  autumn  frosts  put  a  stop  to  them,  but  with  the  help  of 
hot-beds,  &c.,  they  may  be  kept  in  a  bearing  state  the  whole  year 
round.  The  reason  of  its  long  continuance  in  fruit  is,  that  the  run- 
ners which  it  throws  out  during  the  summer,  shoot  up  into  flowers 
and  fruit  the  same  year.  Of  this  there  are  four  varieties,  the  scarlet 
fruited,  red  fruited,  white  fruited,  and  scarlet  blossomed.  This  is  said 
to  be  a  native  of  the  Alps,  in  Europe. 

The  fifth,  or  pine- apple  strawberry,  has  leaves  which  much  resem- 
ble those  of  the  scarlet  strawberry,  but  are  larger,  of  a  thicker  sub- 
stance, and  the  indentures  of  their  edges  are  blunter ;  the  runners 
are  much  larger  and  hairy ;  the  peduncles  are  stronger,  the  flowers 
much  larger,  and  the  fruit  approaches  in  size,  shape,  and  color,  to 
the  Chili  strawberry.  As  this  produces  a  great  quantity  of  fruit 
when  the  plants  are  kept  clear  from  runners  (and  the  fruit  is  very 
large)  it  is  well  worthy  of  cultivation.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  has 


SEPT.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  507 

somewhat  of  the  smell  and  taste  of  the  pine-apple,  from  whence  it  takes 
its  name.* 

In  the  cultivation  of  strawberries,  much  depends  upon  the  choice 
of  plants ;  for  if  they  are  promiscuously  taken  from  the  beds  with- 
out care,  a  great  number  of  them  will  become  barren  ;  these  are  by 
the  gardeners  termed  blind,  which  is  when  there  are  plenty  of  flowers 
but  no  fruit  produced ;  if  these  flowers  are  well  examined  they 
will  be  found  to  want  the  female  organs  of  generation,  most  of  them 
abounding  with  stamina,  but  there  are  few,  if  any,  styles ;  so  that 
it  frequently  happens  among  these  barren  plants  that  some  of  them 
have  a  part  of  an  imperfect  fruit  formed  which  will  sometimes  ripen. 
The  hautboy  strawberry  is  more  subject  to  this  than  any  of  the  other 
kinds.  The  plants  of  either  sort  should  never  be  taken  from  old 
neglected  beds  where  the  stools  had  been  suffered  to  spread  or  run 
into  a  confused  multitude  of  vines,  nor  from  any  plants  which  are 
not  very  fruitful,  and  those  offsets  which  stand  nearest  to  the  old 
plants  should  always  be  preferred. 

Strawberries  in  general,  love  a  strong  loamy  ground,  in  which  they 
will  thrive  and  bear  fruit  more  abundantly  than  in  a  light  soil.  The 
ground  should  be  somewhat  moist,  for  if  it  is  very  dry,  all  the  water- 
ing which  is  given  to  the  plants  in  warm  dry  seasons,  will  not  be 
sufficient  to  procure  abundant  crops  ;  nor  should  the  ground  be  made 
overly  rich  with  dung,  for  that  would  cause  the  plants  to  run  into 
suckers,  grow  too  luxuriant,  and  render  them  less  fruitful. 

Any  time  this  month  that  the  weather  proves  moist,  you  should 
take  advantage  of  it  for  making  your  general  plantations  of  straw- 
berries, but  if  dry  and  hot,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  that  work  to  the 
last  week  thereof,  or  first  in  October,  not  later  if  possible,  as  the 
plants  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  having  time  to  form  good  roots 
before  winter.  But  should  the  weather  then  prove  unfavorable  you 
should  proceed  to  planting,  after  which,  plentiful  and  frequent  water- 
ings must  be  given  till  the  plants  are  well  rooted. 

The  sets  proper  for  planting  at  this  time,  are  those  produced  in 
the  present  year  from  the  young  runners,  selecting  them  as  before 
noticed,  or  such  as  were  taken  off  in  June  and  transplanted  into 
nursery  beds.  When  taken  up,  the  roots  should  be  trimmed,  the 
decayed  leaves  picked  off,  and  also  any  small  vines  or  runners  issuing 
from  the  plants. 

The  ground  should  be  well  dug  and,  if  necessary,  previously  ma- 
nured with  a  sufficiency  of  old  well  rotted  dung,  then  laid  out  into 
four  feet  wide  beds  with  alleys  between,  of  eighteen  or  twenty  inches, 
for  the  convenience,  of  going  in  occasionally  to  weed  and  water  the 
plants  and  to  gather  the  fruit.  Each  bed  is  to  contain  four  rows  of 
plants,  the  large  kinds  eighteen  inches  distant  in  the  rows,  and  the 
small  sorts  fifteen.  Close  the  earth  well  about  the  roots  of  each  plant, 

*  This  division  applies  to  the  more  primitive  state  of  the  strawberry  ; 
we  have  now  got  them  so  mixed  up  by  cross-breeding,  that  we  recognize 
them  as  Pistillate  and  Staminate,  or  Hermaphrodite  varieties.  The  Pine  or 
aromatic,  and  the  Hautboys,  are  somewhat  distinct  classes,  notwithstand- 
ing there  are  many  kinds  of  them,  and  also  that  they  have  partaken  of  the 
general  mixing  up. 


508  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. — THE  ORCHARD.         [SEPT. 

and  when  finished,  water  the  whole  plentifully  should  the  weather 
happen  to  be  dry  at  the  time. 

The  old  strawberry  beds  will  require  to  be  kept  clear  from  large 
overgrown  weeds,  and  in  October  are  to  have  their  autumn  dressing 
as  there  directed. 

N.  B.  If  you  intend  to  force  strawberries  in  the  winter  or  early 
spring  months,  this  is  the  time  to  pot  them  for  that  purpose.  The 
alpine  and  scarlet  kinds  are  the  best  for  forcing ;  they  should  be 
strong  plants  of  two  years  old,  and  in  a  proper  state  for  full  bearing. 
Provide  as  many  pots  of  about  seven  inches  diameter  at  top,  and  made 
in  proportion,  as  you  think  may  be  sufficient,  and  at  the  same  time 
get  some  good  loamy  earth,  made  fine  with 'a  spade,  place  a  few  inches 
thereof 'into  the  bottom  of  each  pot,  previously  laying  a  shell  over 
each  hole  as  directed  on  former  occasions,  then  take  up  each  plant 
with  a  ball  of  earth  to  its  roots,  pare  the  ball  neatly  round  with  the 
knife,  clear  the  plant  from  decayed  leaves  and  runners,  place  it  in 
the  pot  and  fill  up  the  spaces  around  the  sides  and  over  the  surface 
of  the  ball  with  fine  earth.  Water  the  whole  when  potted,  and  re- 
move them  to  the  shade  for  eight  or  ten  days  till  newly  rooted ;  then 
you  may  plunge  them  to  their  rims  in  any  open  part  of  the  garden, 
there  to  remain,  watering  them  occasionally  till  the  approach  of 
winter,  when  the  pots  are  to  be  placed  under  the  protection  of  frames 
and  glasses  till  taken  into  the  forcing  departments. 

This  practice  is  absolutely  necessary,  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
States,  as  during  winter  the  earth  is  so  hard  frozen  as  to  render  it 
impracticable  to  take  up  the  plants  out  of  the  open  ground,  when 
wanted,  without  injury;  moreover,  when  they  are  potted  at  this 
season,  their  roots  will  be  well  established  before  the  time  of  forcing 
commences,  and  consequently  the  plants  will  be  much  more  product- 
ive of  fruit. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

COLLECTING  RIPE  FRUIT. 

Apples  and  pears  that  attain  now  to  full  maturity,  rarely  keep  as 
well  as  those  which  ripen  in  the  ensuing  month;  but  when  it  is  de- 
sirable to  preserve  them  as  long  as  possible,  they  must  be  treated  as 
directed  in  October. 

When  planting  of  fruit-trees  is  intended  in  the  months  of  October 
or  November,  opportunity  ought  to  be  taken  of  any  leisure  time  that 
may  now  occur  for  the  preparation  of  the  ground,  as  directed  in 
March,  under  the  head  Orchard. 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  509 


THE    VINEYARD. 

PROTECTING  THE  FRUIT. 

Your  early  varieties  of  grapes  will  now  be  ripening  very  fast,  and 
will  sometimes  be  subject  to  the  annoyance  of  birds,  which  are  more 
apt  to  attack  the  fruit  a  little  before  sun  rising  and  about  the  time  of 
its  setting,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  day ;  it  will  be,  therefore, 
prudent  to  have  boys  with  rattles  to  frighten  them  away,  particularly 
about  those  hours. 

You  should  also  destroy  poke,  wild  cherries,  and  any  other  uncul- 
tivated productions  growing  near  the  vineyard,  the  fruit  of  which 
might  invite  a  resort  of  birds.  Should  you  observe  an  extraordinary 
resort  of  wasps  in  any  quarter,  and  that  they  are  destructive  to  the 
fruit,  hang  up  phials  of  honeyed  or  sugared  water  in  such  places,  in 
which  numbers  of  them  will  be  caught  and  destroyed. 

The  ground  between  your  vines  must  now  be  kept  perfectly  free 
from  weeds,  and  all  the  branches  tied  up  neatly,  in  order  to  afford 
the  fruit  the  full  advantage  of  air  and  sun  for  its  due  perfection. 

THE  METHOD  OP  MAKING  WHITE  WINES. 

In  the  middle  States,  the  general  vintage  will  happen  some  time 
in  this  month, earlier  or  later, according  to  the  season;  it  will,  there- 
fore, be  necessary  to  be  provided  with  a  sufficient  number  of  clean, 
sweet  casks,  new,  if  for  white  wines,  to  prevent  their  coloring  the 
liquor;  but  red  wines  may  be  put  into  any  cask,  without  injury,  pro- 
vided they  are  sweet  and  clean.  You  must  also  be  provided  with  a 
vat  for  mashing  the  fruit  in,  and  with  a  suitable  contrivance  for  press- 
ing out  the  juice. 

Let  it  be  observed  that  white  wines  are  made  from  black  as  well 
as  from  white  grapes ;  that  the  former  generally  makes  the  strongest 
and  best  wines,  and  that  it  is  from  the  skin  of  the  black  grapes,  when 
fermented  with  the  juice  and  pidp,  that  the  red  tinge  is  obtained. 

When  you  perceive  the  grapes  to  be  fit  for  gathering,  which  you 
may  judge  of  by  the  eye  and  taste,  for  when  perfectly  fit  for  eating 
they  are  then  in  the  best  condition  for  making  wine ;  make  choice  of 
cloudy  weather,  if  such  should  occur,  and  early  in  the  morning,  or 
very  late  in  the  afternoon,  being  provided  with  a  sufficient  number  of 
careful  people,  each  furnished  with  a  basket  to  hold  the  fruit,  and  a 
crooked  pointed  knife  or  a  pair  of  strong  scissors  to  cut  off  the  bunches, 
let  them  begin  their  work,  collecting  only  such  bunches  as  are  open, 
ripe,  and  perfectly  sound,  passing  over  all  that  are  green,  not  ma- 
tured, dry,  rotten,  or  bursted.  The  stalk  of  every  bunch  should  be 
cut  off  close  to  the  fruit,  and  the  bunches  laid  gently  into  the  basket 
without  bruising  or  pressing  them  together. 

The  grapes  which  are  not  sufficiently  ripe  must  be  gathered  at 
another  time,  and  treated  in  like  manner. 


510  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

As  the  grapes  are  collected,  they  must  be  immediately  carried  to 
the  press  or  vat,  for  the  sooner  they  are  pressed  after  gathering  the 
finer  and  whiter  the  wine  will  be,  and  not  only  that,  but  it  will  be 
more  mellow,  have  a  more  exquisite  flavor,  and  be  greater  in 
quantity. 

As  your  vat  is  filling,  the  grapes  are  to  be  trampled  and  mashed 
effectually  by  men,  having  their  legs  and  feet  previously  washed  very 
clean ;  then  let  your  machine  for  pressing  fall  down  thereon,  which 
will  force  out  the  liquor  plentifully,  having  a  cask  conveniently  placed 
to  receive  it. 

When  the  liquor  ceases  to  run  from  the  press,  raise  it  and  cut  up 
the  cake  to  pieces  with  steel  shovels,  and  press  it  again,  together  with 
all  the  loose  grapes  that  happen  to  be  scattered,  and  you  will  have 
another  plentiful  running  of  good  liquor. 

This  is  called  wine  of  the  first  cutting,  which  will  be  of  a  fine 
color  and  flavor,  little  inferior  to  the  other,  having  a  stronger  body, 
and  will  keep  longer  than  that  of  the  first  pressing. 

The  cutting  and  pressing  is  to  be  repeated  as  often  as  you  find 
the  liquor  to  run,  and  that  from  the  second  and  third  cutting  will  be 
still  good,  of  a  sufficient  body  to  keep  for  a  length  of  time,  and  with 
age  will  acquire  mellowness  and  an  improved  flavor. 

The  liquor  which  first  runs  from  the  grapes  without  any  other 
violence  than  the  weight  of  the  press,  is  called  le  vin  de  gout,  and  is 
fine,  thin,  and  lively;  of  a  pleasant  flavor  and  relish,  appears  spark- 
ling in  the  glass,  but  has  not  body  enough  to  keep  a  long  time  with- 
out being  mixed ;  but  when  incorporated  with  that  obtained  from  the 
first,  second,  and  third  cuttings,  it  makes  then  what  is  called  the 
best  champaign. 

The  different  pressings  being  mixed  as  you  think  proper,  should 
be  immediately  put  into  clean  casks  or  hogsheads,  placed  in  a  warm 
room  or  dry  cellar,  and  filled  to  within  two  inches  of  the  bungholes, 
which  should  be  covered  with  pieces  of  cloth,  laid  loosely  on  to  pre- 
vent dirt  from  falling  into  the  liquor. 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  the  finest  wines  ferment  the  soonest,  the 
rest  in  proportion  to  their  goodness.  The  first  cask  that  ferments, 
take  some  of  the  froth  which  works  therefrom,  and  put  a  little  of  it 
into  those  casks  which  are  backward  in  fermenting,  which  will  greatly 
help  their  working. 

The  fermentation  may  continue  for  eight,  ten,  or  twelve  days,  or 
some  time  longer,  according  to  the  season  or  quality  of  the  must, 
but  at  whatever  time  you  perceive  it  to  cease,  which  you  will  see  by 
the  froth  not  rising  as  before,  fill  your  casks  within  about  an  inch  or 
two  of  the  top  and  bung  them  up  tight,  at  the  same  time  making 
small  vent-holes  to  carry  off  what  may  be  thrown  up  by  the  ferment- 
ations not  being  quite  ceased. 

Continue  to  fill  up  your  casks  every  three  or  four  days,  as  before, 
until  the  fermentation  completely  ceases,  lest  the  foulness  which 
should  work  through  the  vent-holes  sink  down  for  want  of  passage, 
and  foul  the  wines.  When  all  appearance  of  fermentation  is  over, 
fill  the  casks  and  stop  the  vent-holes;  however,  open  the  latter  occa- 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  511 

sionally  whilst  there  is  any  chance  of  the  liquor  continuing  to  work. 
Observation  and  discretion  will  best  guide  on  these  occasions. 

About  the  middle  of  December,  or  so  soon  as  the  wines  have  set- 
tled and  become  clear,  draw  them  off  into  new  well-bound  casks, 
previously  well  impregnated  with  salt  and  water,  to  extract  the  in- 
jurious bitterness  of  the  wood ;  after  which,  rinse  the  casks  with  fair 
water,  and  an  infusion  of  peach  leaves  or  flowers,  fill  them  quite 
full  and  bung  them  as  tight  as  possible.  Repeat  this  racking  off  in 
February,  and  likewise  in  the  latter  end  of  March ;  after  which  it 
may  remain  so  till  bottled,  disposed  of,  or  used. 

You  must  be  particularly  careful  in  racking  off  the  wine  to  draw 
it  as  clear  as  possible  from  the  lees,  which  will  render  it  brisk,  lively, 
and  sparkling  in  the  glass ;  while  the  contrary  produces  a  muddy 
dreg,  or  sediment,  which  makes  the  wine  thick,  dull,  and  sometimes 
ropy ;  and  besides,  when  drawn  off  foul,  principles  capable  of  main- 
taining fermentation  would  be  introduced  into  the  hogshead,  which 
would  be  productive  of  the  decomposition  of  the  saccharine  part,  and 
consequently,  deprive  the  wine  of  its  sweetness. 

The  lees  after  the  wine  is  racked  off,  may  be  distilled  for  brandy, 
and  also  the  cakes  of  pulp  and  skins,  after  being  pressed  and  then 
properly  fermented. 

THE   METHOD   OF   MAKING   RED   WINES. 

Red  wines  must  always  be  made  from  black  grapes,  for  besides  the 
main  pulp  or  core,  which  is  white  in  these  as  well  as  the  others,  there 
sticks  to  the  inside  of  the  skin  a  considerable  body  of  rich  pulp  of  a 
deep  red,  more  so  in  some  kinds  than  others ;  this  gives  the  color  to 
the  wine  when  extracted  by  a  due  process  of  fermentation.  The 
color  of  red  wine  is  said  to  be  heightened  by  gathering  the  grapes  in 
the  heat  of  the  day,  but  this  is  productive  of  a  considerable  deficiency 
in  the  quantity,  though  the  quality  may  be  improved  thereby. 

Taking  these  considerations  into  view,  your  grapes  are  to  be  col- 
lected with  the  same  care  as  before  directed  in  the  making  of  white 
wines.  Having  a  sufficient  quantity  gathered,  put  them  into  the  vat, 
by  degrees  treading  and  mashing  them  effectually  as  you  fill  it,  till 
quite  full,  and  the  liquor  floating  above  them ;  then  work  the  pulp 
and  the  liquor  effectually  together,  leaving  all  the  parts  as  loose  as 
possible,  and  so  let  it  remain  to  ferment. 

You  ought  to  be  provided  with  a  cover  for  the  top  of  the  vat,  per- 
forated with  holes,  and  made  so  as  to  easily  slip  down  into  it  and 
sink  a  little  under  the  superficies  of  the  liquor,  to  keep  the  skins  and 
pulpy  parts  from  coming  into  contact  with  the  air  during  the  process 
of  fermentation ;  for  when  this  is  exposed,  and  it  tends  to  swim  on 
the  top,  it  very  shortly  becomes  acid,  and  communicating  this  to  the 
liquor,  greatly  injures  it.  As  the  skins  give  the  color  to  the  wine, 
nothing  is  better  than  the  keeping  of  them  down,  without  pressing, 
during  this  process,  for  to  believe  that  these  and  other  dregs  floating 
on  the  top  impede  the  evaporation  of  the  spirit,  is  a  thing  improbable, 
since  it  requires  a  good  cork  to  stop  it. 

The  moment  of  drawing  off  the  wine  is  of  great  importance,  but 


512  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

generally,  however,  without  rule.  It  would  be  impossible  to  pre- 
scribe a  certain  number  of  days  for  -an  operation  liable  to  so  many 
vicissitudes,  as  much  through  the  qualities  of  the  grapes  as  other 
circumstances.  But  as  the  great  object  of  fermentation  is  the  con- 
version of  the  must  or  expressed  juice  into  wine,  no  drawing  should 
take  place  until  that  is  effected.  This  moment,  which  might  ap- 
pear uncertain,  may  be  ascertained  with  tolerable  precision  by  means 
of  a  tin  tube  open  at  one  end  and  perforated  all  over  with  holes  of  a 
small  size,  that  the  grains  or  stones  of  the  fruit  may  not  pass  through 
when  dipped  into  the  vat;  inside  of  this  a  small  wooden  cylinder 
must  be  placed,  upheld  at  its  bottom  by  a  cork  plate  that  can  work 
up  and  down  freely  in  the  tube :  this  instrument  is  to  be  plunged 
into  the  vat  and  kept  there,  the  liquor  getting  in  through  4ie  holes 
of  the  tube,  will  raise  the  cork  to  the  surface,  to  which  cork  the 
wooden  pin  or  cylinder  is  affixed.  This  latter  must  be  marked  in 
different  heights,  which  will  be  seen  to  rise  as  the  vinous  fermenta- 
tion increases. 

With  this  instrument,  the  precise  moment  in  which  the  wine  is  to 
be  drawn  off,  may  be  established  with  great  exactness ;  this  is  gene- 
rally done  when  the  cylinder  has  attained  to  the  highest  and  become 
stationary,  the  fermenting  mass  always  swelling  in  bulk  till  the  vin- 
ous fermentation  is  completely  accomplished,  becoming  then  station- 
ary previous  to  the  commencement  of  an  acetous  fermentation,  and 
sinking  with  that,  which  if  suffered  without  drawing  off  the  liquor, 
would  ruin  all.  Berthollet  and  other  authors  recommend  not  to 
draw  off  the  wine  till  you  are  able  to  perceive  the  cylinder  begin  to 
lower  a  little. 

When  the  liquor  is  drawn  off  into  clean  sweet  casks,  place  them  in 
the  cellar,  fill  them  up  within  an  inch  or  two  of  the  top,  and  lay  a 
piece  of  leather  with  a  small  weight  on  it  over  each  bung- hole  that 
may  yield  to  a  second  fermentation,  which  generaly  takes  place. 
When  the  wine  has  settled  or  ceased  to  ferment,  bung  the  casks  as 
close  as  possible,  and  the  subsequent  -treatment  is  exactly  the  same 
as  directed  for  white  wines. 

In  the  making  of  red  wines  it  is  customary  to  mix  with  the  fruit  a 
small  portion  of  what  is  called  the  claret  grape,  to  heighten  the  color, 
as  the  entire  juice  of  this  variety  is  of  a  deep  red. 

It  is  also  customary,  and  even  necessary,  with  wine  of  a  weak  body, 
made  from  newly  established  vineyards,  or  from  worn-out  old  ones, 
to  add  two  or  three  gallons  of  very  nice  brandy,  and  five  or  six  of  old 
strong  wine  of  the  same  color,  and  as  near  the  intended  flavor  as 
possible,  to  every  hogshead  of  sixty  or  sixty-three  gallons  of  the  new 
wine ;  this  is  usually  done  after  the  fermentation  is  over. 

In  Spain  and  other  parts  of  Europe,  if  the  season  proves  wet,  or 
if  they  think  the  must  or  expressed  juice  too  replete  with  watery  par- 
ticles, they  boil  the  whole  or  part  thereof,  to  evaporate  the  super- 
abundance ;  but  this  is  done  immediately  after  the  juice  is  expressed 
before  the  least  fermentation  takes  place. 

The  evaporation  ought  not  to  be  by  an  intense  ebullition,  and 
although  the  fire  may  be  ardent,  the  ebullition  may  be  prevented  by 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  513 

pouring  some  cold  must  into  the  kettle  every  time  you  perceive  it 
ready  to  boil. 

The  acid  contained  in  the  must  being  capable  of  dissolving  copper 
and  converting  it  into  verdigris,  you  must,  therefore,  be  careful  not 
to  boil  it  in  any  kettle  but  such  as  is  perfectly  well  tinned;  and  some 
people,  after  cleaning  the  inside  effectually,  rub  it  all  over  with  a 
woollen  rag  dipped  in  sweet  oil ;  if  these  precautions  are  neglected 
the  dissolution  of  the  copper  will  give  a  disagreeable  brass  taste  to 
the  wine,  and  perhaps  render  it  pernicious  to  the  health  of  those  who 
drink  it. 

The  kettle  should  be  large,  wide  in  the  mouth  and  flat  in  the  bot- 
tom, which  will  produce  a  saving  in  the  consumption  of  fuel  and  ex- 
pedite the  process. 

The  whole  of  the  must  may  be  boiled,  or  if  only  a  part  thereof  be 
so  reduced,  this  should  be  mixed  with  the  remainder,  and  if  intended 
for  white  wine,  put  into  casks  to  undergo  the  process  of  vinous  fer- 
mentation as  before  noticed.  But  if  designed  for  red  wine  it  must 
be  poured  into  the  vat,  when  of  a  temperate  degree  of  heat,  on  the 
pulp  and  skins,  there  to  undergo  with  them  the  necessary  degree  of 
fermentation  to  extract  the  color  and  to  form  the  wine  ;  after  which 
it  is  to  be  treated  as  before  directed,  observing  to  take  similar  pains 
in  pressing  the  juice  out  of  the  pulp  when  sufficiently  fermented,  as 
recommended  under  the  article  White  Wines,  but  this  will  not  be  so 
difficult. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Ideal,  as  well  as  intrinsic  qualities,  cause  one  kind  of  wine  to  be 
preferred  to  another,  so  that  one  nation  or  country  admires  what 
another  does  not  like,  or  perhaps  despises;  and  even  this  ideal  fancy 
is  not  uncommon  among  individuals  of  the  same  country,  town,  or 
place  ;  consequently,  it  will  be  well  to  know  how  to  vary  the  proper- 
ties of  wine  according  to  fancy. 

If  a  taste  of  wine  slightly  acid,  similar  to  that  of  the  Rhenish,  is 
desired,  some  tartareous  acid  may  be  added  to  the  must. 

If  the  wine  is  required  sweet,  the  must  should  be  drained  in  such 
a  manner  that  it  may  retain  as  little  as  possible  of  the  lees,  and  let 
it  afterwards  ferment  of  itself.  Some  sugared  matter  might  be  joined 
with  it. 

If  the  wine  should  be  wanted  delicate  and  of  a  light  color,  the 
must  should  not  be  suffered  to  have  a  long  action  on  the  lees,  from 
which  it  takes  principles  that  augment  the  fermentation,  and  dissolve 
in  consequence  the  mucilaginous  parts,  together  with  the  coloring 
matter. 

Should  a  strong  wine  of  good  body  be  preferred,  the  must  ought 
to  be  suffered  to  remain  the  longer  on  the  dregs,  in  case  the  grapes 
do  not  afford  it  of  sufficient  strength.  Or  the  boiling  of  the  must, 
in  the  manner  before  observed,  will  accomplish  this. 

If  besides  it  be  desired  to  have  a  heady  or  intoxicating  wine,  add 
some  tartar  and  sugared  matter  to  the  must,  which  will  produce  a 
greater  portion  of  spirit. 
33 


514  THE  VINEYARD,  [SEPT. 

If  the  wine  be  required  to  have  a  great  deal  of  body,  add,  after 
the  ceasing  of  the  fermentation,  fresh  sugared  matter,  such  as  strong 
must  deprived  of  its  tartar. 

It  has  been  suggested  to  me,  that  exposing  the  casks  of  weak  wine 
to  the  winter  frost  till  the  watery  particles  contained  in  the  liquor 
are  converted  into  ice,  and  then  drawing  off  the  pure  wine,  would  be 
the  best  method  of  giving  it  a  sufficient  body.  If  this  answers  the 
end,  and  it  is  very  probable  it  may,  as  pure  wine  requires  a  much 
greater  degree  of  cold  to  freeze  it  than  water,  the  middle  and  eastern 
States  of  the  Union  possess  an  advantage  in  that  respect  over  most 
of  the  wine  countries  of  Europe,  as  the  cold  of  their  winters  is  not 
sufficiently  intense  to  answer  that  end. 

Should  the  wine  be  required  with  much,  little,  or  no  color,  let  it 
be  remembered  that  this  quality  resides  exclusively  in  the  skin  of 
the  fruit,  so  that  you  may  conduct  the  process  according  to  your 
desire. 

Different  flavors  and  fragrancies  are  communicated  by  the  different 
kinds  of  grapes,  and  also  from  other  ingredients  :  the  odor  of  Mus- 
catel, for  example,  is  given  with  the  flowers  of  elder  and  other  herbs ; 
some  use  peach  flowers,  and  consider  them  to  communicate  an  agree- 
able flavor  to  wine. 

The  absolute  and  essential  qualities  in  wine  are  to  have  no  defect, 
nor  be  liable  easily  to  contract  any,  to  be  able  to  keep  long,  and  bear 
transportation. 

An  essential  article  in  the  preservation  of  wine  is  to  keep  the  air 
totally  excluded  out  of  the  vessels,  for  which  purpose  Davanzati 
advises  to  "  take  off  the  rind  of  a  piece  of  dried  bacon,  and  leave  a 
little  fat  adhering  to  it  in  the  centre ;  after  that  make  use  of  it  in  the 
manner  of  a  bung,  and  cram  it  in  with  might,  that  the  cask  may  be 
well  stopped  up ;  extend  out  the  rind  afterwards  over  the  cask  after 
having  done  it  over  with  ashes  ;  then  cover  it  over  again  with  very 
dry  ashes ;  and  that  they  may  not  fall  off,  nail  a  piece  of  stuff  over 
the  same.  The  cask  being  then  sufficiently  shut  up,  the  air  will  not 
penetrate  into  it,  and  the  wine  cannot  change  its  nature." 

I  mention  this  to  show  the  necessity  of  the  casks  being  kept  air- 
tight and  bunged  effectually,  not  doubting  but  many  other  methods 
may  be  used  equally  effectual,  perhaps  much  more  so  than  that 
recommended  by  Davanzati. 

A  wine  cellar  should  be  dry,  and  so  deep  under  ground  that  the 
temperature  of  its  heat  may  be  nearly  the  same  winter  and  summer : 
it  should  be  at  a  distance  from  streets,  highways,  workshops,  sewers, 
and  necessaries  ;  if  arched  over  the  better. 

Of  all  other  methods  wine  is  best  preserved  in  bottles,  well  corked 
and  sealed ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  till  it  is  clear  and  fine,  and 
all  fermentation  subsided. 

Tartar  and  the  lees  of  wine  are  the  principles  of  its  destruction, 
and  none  but  sweet  wines  can  bear  the  existence  of  them ;  by  often 
drawing  it  off  in  order  to  purge  it  of  these,  there  is  too  great  a 
superficcs  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  air,  which  greatly  injures 
the  wine. 

To  obviate  this  evil,  the  people  of  Champagne  and  other  wine 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  515 

countries  make  use  of  the  following  expedient,  viz  :  To  a  leather 
pipe  from  four  to  six  feet  in  length  and  two  inches  in  diameter  are 
adapted,  at  each  end,  wooden  pipes  nine  or  ten  inches  in  length, 
which  decrease  in  diameter  towards  the  ends,  and  are  fastened  to  the 
leather  pipes  by  means  of  a  piece  of  twine.  The  bung  of  the  cask 
intended  to  be  filled  is  taken  out  and  one  of  the  pipes  put  into  it. 
A  good  cock  is  fixed  in  the  cask  to  be  emptied,  two  or  three  inches 
from  the  bottom,  and  in  this  is  inserted  the  extremity  of  the  other 
pipe.  A  pair  of  bellows  of  two  feet  long,  including  the  handles,  and 
ten  inches  in  diameter,  with  a  wooden  pipe,  to  the  extremity  of  which 
is  fixed  a  small  leather  valve  to  prevent  the  air  from  rushing  out  when 
the  bellows  are  opened,  is  introduced  through  a  hole  made  in  the  bung 
and  fitted  exactly  thereto.  When  the  bellows  are  worked,  the  pres- 
sure exercised  on  the  wine  obliges  it  to  issue  from  the  cask  and  to 
ascend  and  pass  through  the  leather  pipe  into  the  other  cask.  When 
the  pipe  is  once  filled,  the  wine  will  pass  through  without  the  appli- 
cation of  any  further  force  till  each  cask  is  half  full ;  but  then  by 
working  the  bellows  the  artificial  pressure  of  the  air  on  the  surface 
of  the  wine  will  oblige  the  remainder  to  pass  off,  without  any  agita- 
tion or  shaking.  When  a  hissing  is  heard  at  the  cock,  it  is  a  sign 
that  all  the  wine  has  passed.  This  operation  may  be  performed  in 
another  manner,  without  the  assistance  of  a  cock,  by  making  one  of 
the  wooden  pipes  so  long  as  to  reach  within  five  or  six  inches  of  the 
bottom,  and  introducing  it  through  the  bung,  together  with  the  pipe 
of  the  bellows,  which  when  worked,  will  force  up  the  liquor  as  before. 

CLARIFICATION  OF  WINES. 

When  wines  have  been  racked  off  three  or  four  times,  in  the  pre- 
ceding manner,  they  may  be  fined  or  clarified  as  follows  :  For  white 
wines,  mix  a  quart  of  new  milk  and  about  an  ounce  of  salt  with  two 
or  three  quarts  of  wine  and  pour  it  into  the  cask; ;  then  with  a  strong 
lath  or  flat  stick,  stir  the  wine  in  the  cask  very  well,  observing  not 
to  put  the  stick  to  the  bottom,  lest  you  disturb  the  lees  or  sediment. 
This  will  be  sufficient  for  sixty-three  gallons. 

Some  for  this  purpose  use  a  solution  of  isinglass,  about  the  quantity 
of  an  ounce  to  every  fifty  gallons  of  wine;  but  Chaptal  observes, 
"  the  use  of  this  substance  is  dreaded  in  warm  climates,  and  its  place 
is  supplied  by  whites  of  eggs :  ten  or  twelve  are  sufficient  for  half  a 
muid,  or  seventy  two  gallons  English.  They  should  be  well  beaten 
up,  and  mixed  with  a  pint  of  new  milk." 

For  a  hogshead  of  red  wine,  beat  up  effectually  the  whites  of  ten 
or  twelve  fresh  eggs,  and  incorporate  this  well  with  three  or  four 
quarts  of  wine,  which  pour  into  the  cask,  stirring  it  as  above  di- 
rected. In  five  or  six  days  after,  the  wines  will  be  fit  to  draw  off 
for  bottling,  &c. 

METHODS  OF  CURING  RAISINS. 

R.  Twiss,  Esq.,  says,  in  his  Travels  through  Portugal  and  Spain, 
page  834,  "Raisins  are  of  two  sorts;  those  which  are  called  sun- 


516  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

raisins  are  made  thus :  when  the  grapes  are  almost  ripe,  the  stalk  is 
half  cut  through,  so  that  the  sap  may  not  penetrate  farther,  but  yet 
the  bunch  of  grapes  may  remain  suspended  by  the  stalk ;  the  sun, 
by  darting  on  them,  candies  them,  and  when  they  are  dry  they  are 
packed  up  in  boxes. 

"The  second  sort  is  made  after  this  manner  :  when  the  vines  are 
produced,  the  tendrils  or  claspers  are  preserved  till  the  time  of 
vintage,  a  great  fire  is  made,  when  the  ^tendrils  are  burned,  and  in 
the  ley  made  of  their  ashes  the  newly  "gathered  grapes  are  dipped, 
after  which  they  are  exposed  to  the  sun  to  dry,  which  renders  them 
fit  for  use." 

Mr.  Swinburn,  in  his  Travels  through  Spain,  informs  us  that  "the 
raisins  dried  on  the  coast  of  Valencia  are  dipped  in  a  ley  of  wine  and 
ashes." 

PRESERVING  GRAPES  FRESH  FOR  WINTER  USE. 

Grapes  may  be"  kept  fresh  a  long  time  by  the  following  method  : 
before  the  autumn  frosts  have  killed  the  leaves,  let  the  bunch,  with 
the  shoot,  be  carefully  cut  off  the  vine;  then  let  the  lower  end  of  the 
shoot  be  put- into  a  bottle  filled  with  water;  which  hang  up  with  the 
shoot  and  branch  in  a  warm  room,  or  in  a  green-house. 

The  bottle  should  be  filled  with  fresh,  clear  water  every  ten  or 
twelve  days,  and -at  the  same  time  a  thin  paring  should  be  cut  off 
the  bottom  of  the  shoot,  whereby  the  pores  will  be  made  to  imbibe 
the  water  with  greater  facility. 

By  this  method,  grapes  may  be  kept  fresh  and  good  till  the  middle 
of  February. 

Or,  let  the  grapes  hang  on  the  vines  as  long  as  they  will  continue 
on  with  safety;  the  late  ripening  kinds  will  be  best  for  this  purpose, 
provided  they  are  of  good  flavor  and  have  attained  full  maturity. 
When  the  frosts  begin  to  set  in  sharp  then  gather  them.  Where 
there  are  several  bunches  on  one  branch,  cut  it  off,  leaving  about  six 
inches  in  length,  or  more,  of  the  wood,  according  to  the  distance 
between  the  bunches,  and  a  little  on  the  outside  of  the  fruit  at  each 
end;  seal  both  ends  of  the  branch  with  some  common  sealing  wax, 
or  with  such  as  wine  merchants  use  for  sealing  their  bottles  with ; 
then  hang  them  across  a  line  in  a  dry  room,  which  is  to  be  kept  per- 
fectly free  from  frost,  taking  care  to  clip  out  with  a  pair  of  scissors 
any  of  the  berries  that  begin  to  decay  or  become  mouldy,  which  if 
left  would  taint  the  others.  In  this  way  grapes  may  be  kept  fresh 
a  long  time;  if  they  are  cut  before  the  bunches  are  very  ripe,  they 
will  keep  longer,  but  their  flavor  will  not  be  so  fine. 

Having  plenty  of  fresh  grapes  in  winter  makes  a  great  addition  to 
the  table,  and  if  properly  kept  they  will  be  of  a  much  superior  flavor 
to  the  imported  grapes. 

Grapes  may  also  be  kept  in  jars ;  every  bunch,  when  well  aired 
and  perfectly  dry,  should  be  wrapped  up  loosely  in  soft,  white  paper, 
laid  in  layers,  and  each  layer  covered  with  bran,  which  should  be 
perfectly  well  dried  before  it  is  used ;  first  lay  a  little  of  the  dry 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  51 Y 

bran  in  the  bottom  of  the  jar,  then  a  layer  of  the  wrapped  up  grapes, 
and  so  on,  a  layer  of  bran  and  a  layer  of  grapes  alternately,  till  you 
have  filled  the  jar;  then  shake  it  gently  and  fill  it  to  the  top  with 
bran;  cover  the  top  with  paper,  and  over  this  a  piece  of  bladder 
doubled,  which  tie  firmly  around  to  exclude  the  air ;  then  put  on  the 
top  or  cover  of  the  jar,  observing  that  it  fits  as  close  as  possible. 
These  jars  should  be  kept  in  a  room  where  they  will  not  be  exposed 
to  damps,  frosts,  or  too  umcji  heat. 

In  order  to  preserve  a  few  of  your  finest  bunches  for  this  purpose, 
from  the  depredations  of  birds  and  insects,  let  some  small  bags  made 
of  thin  gauze  or  crape  be  drawn  over  them,  or  rather  let  the  bunches 
be  put  into  the  bags ;  the  sun  and  air  will  have  free  access  through 
the  crape,  and  when  wet  it  will  dry  very  soon. 


VINERIES. 

Much  attention  is  now  paid  to  vineries  for  forcing  grapes,  and,  as 
an  example  of  the  combination  of  the  ornamental  vinery  and  green- 
houses combined,  Figs.  55  and  56  are  given. 

It  exhibits  a  perspective  view  and  ground-plan  of  one  erected  on 
Staten  Island,  New  York,  from  designs  by  William  Charlton.  It 
was  required  to  have  an  early  and  a  late  grapery,  a  large  general 
conservatory,  and  a  suitable  apartment  for  camellias,  and  other  beau- 
tiful, polished-leaved  green-house  plants  which  are  subject  to  be 
scorched  by  the  rays  of  the  mid-day  sun.  The  most  available  spot  was 
on  a  level  spot,  so  situated  that  the  longitudinal  extension  of  the 
structure  should  be  east-southeast,  and  west-northwest.  It  was  also 
desirable  that  no  parts  should  appear  as  " sheds"  or  other  nuisance; 
consequently,  the  ordinary  conveniences  are  provided  for  by  a  cellar, 
forty  feet  long  by  nine  feet  wide,  being  sunk  under  the  northwest 
part  of  the  building,  and  which  contains  the  two  boilers  and  sufficient 
room  for  the  winter's  fuel.  There  are  two  cisterns,  each  fourteen 
feet  wide  by  fourteen  feet  deep,  under  ground,  and  beneath  the  stage 
of  the  central  house.  Each  house  is  furnished  with  a  tank  for  tepid 
water,  having  a  hose-coupling  attached,  with  faucets  so  arranged, 
that  one  force-pump  placed  under  the  stage  answers  all  the  purposes 
of  drawing  water  from  the  cisterns  into  the  tanks,  or  from  any  one  of 
the  tanks  to  shower  over  the  whole  or  any  part  of  the  interior,  at 
pleasure.  The  centre  house  is  twenty-one  feet  wide  by  forty-six  feet 
long,  and  seventeen  feet  from  the  ground-level  to  the  ridge.  The 
two  wings  are  fifty  feet  long  by  twenty  feet  wide,  and  fourteen  feet 
to  the  ridges,  which  are  on  a  level  with  the  eaves  where  they  join. 
This  is  a  good  example  to  imitate. 

• 


518 


THE  VINEYARD. 

Figs.  55,  56. 


[SEPT. 


SEPT,] 


THE  VINEYARD. 


519 


Fig.  57. 


PRUNING  THE  VINE. 


In  addition  to  the  rules  heretofore  enforced  regarding  pruning  the 
vine,  we  give  a  representation  of  the  results  of  a  judicious  system  to 
induce  and  evenly  distribute  its  fruitfulness.  The  vine  here  repre- 
sented occupied  a  space  four  feet  high  and  three  feet  wide,  and  pro- 
duced and  perfectly  ripened  sixty- seven  bunches  of  fruit. 


520  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 


THE    NURSERY. 


BUDDING  OR  INOCULATING. 

Continue  to  inoculate  peaches,  nectarines,  almonds,  and  apples ; 
the  three  former  will  succeed  very  well  if  done  any  time  before  the 
middle  of  the  month,  and  even  later  in  some 'seasons,  especially  in 
the  middle  and  eastern  States;  the  budding  of  apples  should  be 
finished  as  early  in  the  month  as  possible ;  but  these  or  any  other 
kinds  may  be  inoculated  as  late  as  you  find  the  bark  to  separate 
freely  from  the  stock. 

Untie  the  bandages  of  such  plants  as  have  been  budded  three  or 
four  weeks ;  this  must  not  be  neglected,  for  the  swelling  growth  of 
the  stocks  would  cause  the  bandages  to  sink  into  the  bark,  which 
would  injure  both  stocks  and  buds. 

PREPARE  GROUND  FOR  PLANTING. 

If  omitted  in  August,  it  will  be  very  proper  to  embrace  every 
leisure  moment  at  this  time,  to  dig  and  prepare  all  vacant  quarters 
and  borders  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  fruit-tree  stocks,  or  trees  or 
shrubs  of  any  kind  in  October  or  November;  this  will  forward  your 
business,  and  not  only  that,  but  the  ground  will  be  mellowed  and 
moistened  by  the  rain,  which  will  be  of  much  advantage  in  exciting 
the  plants  to  produce  new  fibres  before  winter. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

When  absolute  necessity  requires  it,  and  only  in  that  case,  you 
may  in  the  last  week  of  this  month  remove  and  transplant  evergreens 
and  such  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  as  are  much  declined  in  leaf; 
but  should  the  season  prove  dry,  these  must  be  carefully  and  fre- 
quently watered  for  a  month  or  five  weeks  after,  not  giving  too  much 
at  a  time,  nor  too  frequently,  lest  an  over  quantity  should  rot  the 
young  fibres  as  they  are  produced. 

PROPAGATING   TREES  AND  SHRUBS  BY  CUTTINGS   AND   LAYER.S. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month  you  may  begin  to  propagate  goose- 
berries, currants,  honeysuckles,  and  several  other  hardy  trees  and 
shrubs  by  cuttings ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  at  this  time  to  plant 
them  in  a  shady  border;  however,  I  would  not  advise  this  to  be  done 
before  October,  except  in  cases  of  necessity ;  for  wood  imperfectly 
ripened,  when  cut  off  and  planted  in  this  .month,  seldom  can  bear 
the  power  of  the  sun  in  our  climates,  unless  it  is  for  some  time  after 
covered  and  protected  therefrom. 

The  general  propagation  by  layers  may,  with  great  propriety,  be 


SEPT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  521 

commenced  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month.     (For  the  method 
see  page  300.) 

FRUIT   STONES. 

Peach,  plum,  and  cherry  stones,  &c.,  may  now  be  sown  as  already 
directed,  or  they  may  be  preserved  as  recommended,  till  October, 
November,  or  February ;  but  in  the  southern  States  they  should  be 
sown  in  or  before  January  if  possible. 

TRIMMING   PINES   AND   FIRS,  ETC. 

Where  firs,  pines,  and  other  resinous  trees  are  grown  so  rude  as  to 
require  some  of  their  branches  to  be  cut  off,  this  is  the  best  time  in 
the  year  for  so  doing;  now  they  are  not  subject  to  weep  as  in  the 
spring,  and  there  will  be  time  for  their  wounds  to  harden  and  partly 
heal  before  winter.  Walnut-trees  and  maples  should  also  be  trimmed 
at  this  season  where  necessary,  for  the  same  reason. 

GENERAL  CARE  OF  YOUNG  NURSERY  PLANTS. 

Thoroughly  clean  from  weeds  all  the  seed-beds  and  young  planta- 
tions of  trees,  shrubs,  &c.  ;  this  must  be  done  occasionally  by  hand 
and  hoe,  taking  opportunity  of  dry  days  when  you  work  with  the 
hoe;  and  weeding  will  be  easier  performed  when  the  ground  is  moist. 

Continue  to  give  water  in  dry  weather  to  all  the  plants  in  pots  or 
boxes,  and  also  to  new  plantations  of  flowers,  &c. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  begin  to  pot  off  singly  such 
young  tender  plants  as  were  raised  from  seed  this  year,  and  that 
stand  too  close  together  where  growing.  ^  These  should  be  immedi- 
ately placed  in  the  shade  for  about  three  weeks  till  newly  rooted, 
after  which  place  them  in  a  warm  exposure  till  the  approach  of  frost, 
when  they  must  be  removed  into  the  green-house  or  placed  under  the 
protection  of  frames  and  glasses,  &c. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

CARNATIONS   AND   PINKS. 

Your  late  carnation  and  pink  layers  must  now  be  taken  off  as  soon 
as  they  are  well  rooted,  and  be  treated  as  directed  in  July  and  Au- 
gust ;  the  earlier  in  the  month  that  you  can  do  this  the  better  will 
the  plants  be  rooted  before  winter. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  you  may  transplant  from  the  nur- 
sery-beds the  seedling  pinks  and  carnations,  into  such  beds  and  bor- 
ders as  you  intend  them  to  flower  in  ;  observing  to  take  each  plant 
up  with  a  ball  of  earth,  and  to  give  it  some  water  when  newly  planted. 


522  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 


AURICULAS. 

The  auricula  plants  still  require  due  attention,  but  particularly 
those  shifted  last  month ;  they  nm&t  yet  be  kept  in  the  shade  and 
moderately  watered ,  as  often  as  the  earth  appears  rather  dry,  to  pro- 
mote a  free  growth  and  a  good  supply  of  new  roots  before  winter. 

If  the  shifting  had  been  neglected  last  month  it  may  yet  be  done,* 
but  the  beginning  of  August  is  a  more  eligible  period. 

Particular  care  must  now  be  taken  to  keep  the  auricula  seedlings,, 
as  well  as  the  old  plants,  free  from  decayed  leaves  and  weeds  of 
every  kind,  to  keep  the  earth  about  them  in  a  moderate  state  of 
moisture,  that  the  plants  may  grow  freely  and  obtain  strength  before 
winter. 

SOWING    SEEDS   OF  BULBOUS-ROOTED   FLOWERS. 

This  will  be  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  the  seeds  of  tulips,  hya- 
cinths, and  of  every  other  kind  of  bulbous  rooted  flowers  that  have 
perfected  seed  in  the  preceding  part  of  the  season.  These  seeds 
should  be  sown  separately  in  boxes  filled  with  good  sound  garden 
mould,  mixed  with  a  small  portion  of  sand  or  with  hyacinth  or  tulip 
compost;  sow  the  seeds  pretty  thick  and  cover  them  about  half  an 
inch  deep.  The  depth  of  earth  in  each  box  should  be  at  least  six 
inches,  the  bottoms  of  the  boxes  should  be  perforated  with  holes, 
each  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  covered  with  shells,  in  order 
that  any  extra  moisture  may  drain  off  thereby.  The  boxes  are  then 
to  be  placed  in  a  warm  exposure,  and  will  require  no  water,  or  any 
other  attention  than  the  keeping  of  them  perfectly  free  from  weeds, 
and  slightly  protecting  them  from  frost  till  the  spring  following, 
when  the  plants  will  appear.  Early  in  May  place  the  boxes  in  the 
shade,  but  not  under  the  dropping  or  shade  of  trees ;  and  in  very 
dry  weather  give  the  plants  a  small  portion  of  water ;  but  this  should 
be  administered  sparingly,  lest  it  should  rot  the  young  bulbs.  In 
June,  when  the  leaves  are  decayed,  sift  half  an  inch  of  fresh  earth 
over  that  in  the  boxes,  and  on  the  approach  of  winter  place  them 
again  in  a  warm  exposure  where  you  can  give  them  some  slight  pro- 
tection from  severe  frost.  Continue  the  same  treatment,  winter  and 
summer,  till  the  month  of  June  or  July,  in  the  third  year ;  the  roots 
may  then  be  taken  up,  dried,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  di- 
rected for  large  bulbs  or  offsets  on  pages  407  and  408 ;  a  few  of  the 
strongest  roots  will  flower  the  fourth  year,  about  one-half  may  be 
expected  to  flower  the  fifth,  but  the  sixth  year  every  healthy  root 
will  exhibit  its  bloom  ;  and  the  hopes  and  expectations  of  the  culti- 
vator will  be  realized  or  disappointed.  He  may,  however,  think  him- 
self fortunate  if  one-half  of  the  plants  that  first  appeared  are  in  ex- 
istence at  this  period,  and  if  he  can  at  last  find  one  tulip  or  hyacinth 
in  five  hundred  deserving  a  name  or  a  place  in  a  good  collection,  he 
may  rest  perfectly  content. 

The  tulips  raised  from  seed  will  each  consist  of  one  plain  color  on 
a  white,  dark,  or  yellow  bottom ;  the  period  of  their  breaking  into 
different  stripes  is  very  uncertain,  so  much  so  that  it  is  not  uncora- 


SEPT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  523 

mon  to  wait  ten  or  twenty  years  without  the  desired  success,  although 
it  sometimes  happens,  fortunately,  to  take  place  the  first,  second,  or 
third  year  after  their  blooming ;  where  the  collection  of  breeders  is 
numerous  (a  name  given  to  those  self-colored  tulips),  there  may  be 
reasonable  expectations  of  procuring  one  or  two  valuable  flowers  an- 
nually :  a  poor  dry  soil  is  most  likely  to  produce  these  effects ;  and 
a  single  instance  has  occurred  where  forty  breeders  out  of  fifty  be- 
came broken  or  variegated  in  one  season  in  a  situation  of  this  de- 
scription. 

New  sorts  of  breeders  are  procured  from  seed,  but  such  only  as 
have  tall  strong  stems,  with  large  well  formed  cups,  and  clear  in  the 
bottom,  are  worth  cultivating. 

Note. — The  various  kinds  of  tender  bulbous-rooted  flowering  plants 
may  be  propagated  as  above  directed,  but  the  boxes  in  which  the 
seedlings  grow  must  be  placed  in  a  green-house  or  hot-house  in  win- 
ter, according  to  the  respective  necessities  of  the  various  kinds. 

TRANSPLANT   PERENNIAL  AND  BIENNIAL   FLOWER   ROOTS. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  period  for  trans- 
planting the  various  kinds  of  seedlings,  perennial  and  biennial  flow-, 
ers,  out  of  the  flower-nursery  into  the  beds,  borders,  and  pleasure- 
grounds,  where  they  are  designed  to  bloom.  You  may  likewise  slip 
and  plant  out  double  catchfly,  pinks,  London  pride,  phlox,  draco- 
cephaluuis,  sweet-william,  thrift,  scarlet-lychnis,  Virginian  spider- 
wort,  double  rose-campion,  double  rocket,  Virginian  lungwort,  creep- 
ing Greek  valerian,  and  every  other  kind  or  hardy  fibrous-rooted  per- 
ennials that  are  past  bloom. 

Cut  down  the  stalks  of  such  flowers  as  are  decayed,  and  where 
they  are  not  to  be  transplanted,  dig  the  ground  about  them  and  add 
some  rotten  dung  or  fresh  earth  to  the  borders,  which  will  greatly 
strengthen  their  roots. 

This  will  also  be  a  very  good  time  to  collect  from  the  fields, 
swamps,  and  woods,  some  of  the  favorites  of  the  Most  High,  which 
he  has  decorated  with  such  a  profusion  of  lustre  and  beauty,  that 
"  Solomon  in  all  his  glory"  was  not  equal  to.  These  are  to  be  taken 
up  and  treated  as  directed  on  page  493. 

The  various  kinds  of  tuberous-rooted  flowering  plants  may  now  be 
propagated  by  slipping  or  parting  their  roots,  such  as  paeonias,  spiraea 
filipendula,  flag-irises,  helleborus  hyemalisor  winter  aconite,  &c.  This 
last  should  have  its  roots  planted  in  small  clusters ;  for,  small  solitary 
flowers  scattered  about  the  borders  are  scarcely  seen  at  a  distance ; 
but  when  these,  snowdrops,  crocuses,  and  dwarf  Persian  irises  are 
alternately  planted  in  bunches,  they  will  have  a  very  good  effect,  as 
they  flower  at  the  same  time  and  are  much  of  a  size.  You  may  also 
divide  and  transplant  the  roots  of  the  helleborus  niger,  or  Christmas 
rose,  helleborus  viridis,  or  green  hellebore,  helleborus  ranunculinus, 
and  helleborus  foetidus,  stinking  hellebore,  or  bear's-foot.  The  hel- 
leborus lividus,  purple,  or  great  three-flowered  black  hellebore,  is  a 
very  desirable  plant ;  it  is  usual  to  keep  this  in  the  green-house, 


524  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 

where  it  will  flower  in  February  and  continue  a  long  time  in  bloom. 
It  may  now  be  propagated  in  like  manner  as  the  other  species. 


PLANTING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

Spring  crocuses,  snowdrops,  fritillaries,  crown-imperials,  dens- 
canises,  dwarf  Persian,  English,  and  Spanish  bulbous  irises,  scarlet 
martagons,  white,  superb,  Canada,  and  red  lilies,  and  all  other  kinds 
of  bulbs  that  do  not  agree  with  being  kept  long  out  of  ground  should 
now  be  planted  if  possible:  for  although  these  roots  may  be  kept  up 
much  longer  if  preserved  from  the  air,  in  dry  sand,  sawdust,  dry  chaff 
or  the  like,  yet  they  would  not  flower  near  so  well  next  season  as  if 
planted  in  due  time. 

Common  tulips,  hyacinths,  narcissus,  &c.,  may  now  be  planted  in 
the  borders  of  the  pleasure  grounds,  in  small  clumps  of  four  or  five 
in  a  place,  covering  the  roots  about  four  inches  deep  if  the  soil  be 
dry  and  light ;  if  stiff  and  heavy,  three  inches  will  be  sufficient ;  but 
the  latter  kind  of  soil  should  not  be  chosen  for  this  purpose  if  pos- 
sible :  where  the  borders  are  naturally  inclined  to  clay,  proper  earth 
should  be  brought  on  barrows,  and  holes  made  in  the  spots  where  you 
intend  planting  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  at  least  the  same  in 
depth,  which  fill  with  the  good  soil  and  plant  the  roots  therein,  cover- 
ing as  above. 

Van  Thol  and  other  early  tulips  may  now  be  planted  in  a  warm 
soil  and  exposure  for  an  early  spring  bloom. 

FLOWER  BORDERS  AND  SHRUBBERIES. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  begin  to  dig  the  vacant  beds 
and  borders  where  the  plants  are  mostly  declined  in  their  flowering, 
to  prepare  them  for  the  reception  of  any  plants  or  roots,  to  kill  weeds, 
and  to  give  a  neat  and  becoming  appearance  to  the  whole ;  if  they 
require  it  add  some  fresh  earth  or  very  rotten  dung  to  them,  and  in 
the  planting  of  flowers  in  borders  along  the  principal  walks  observe 
to  dispose  them  in  such  a  manner  as  that  there  may  be  a  regular  suc- 
cession of  flowers  throughout  the  season  in  the  different  parts,  plant- 
ing the  low  growing  kinds  in  front  and  the  taller  more  remote  from 
the  walks. 

Continue  to  keep  the  general  flower  borders,  clumps,  and  other 
similar  districts  very  clean,  and  in  neat  order,  and  go  around  all  the 
beds,  borders,  and  shrubbery  compartments  once  a  week  to  cut  down 
decayed  flower  stems,  for  such  detract  much  from  the  beauty  of  the 
plants  in  flower  as  well  as  from  that  of  the  general  appearance. 

Regulate  disorderly  growths,  tie  up  straggling  branches,  and  pick 
off  all  decayed  leaves;  likewise  prune  or  cut  away  any  branches  or 
twigs  that  appear  in  a  mouldy  or  declining  state  on  any  of  the  flower- 
ing plants  or  shrubs. 


SEPT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  525 


BOX  EDGINGS. 

Clip  box  edgings  where  it  was  omitted  in  the  two  former  months, 
but  let  this  be  done  as  soon  now  as  possible,  that  the  box  may  have 
time  to  grow  a  little  and  put  on  a  fresh  appearance  before  winter  ; 
it  will  be  best  to  do  this  in  wet  or  cloudy  weather,  if  such  should 
happen  in  due  time. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  should  the  season  prove  moist,  you 
may  begin  to  plant  box  edgings  where  wanted,  as  directed  on  page 
316,  but  if  the  weather  sets  in  dry  and  hot  immediately  after,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  shade  them  with  boards,  &c.,  for  a  month  ;  about 
that  period  they  will  be  newly  rooted,  and  appear  neat  all  winter. 
However,  should  the  weather  not  prove  favorable  in  this  month,  it 
would  be  more  advisable  to  defer  that  work  till  the  early  part  of 
October. 

If  you  have  low  bunches  of  dwarf  box,  that  the  offsets  are  gene- 
rally rooted,  you  need  be  under  no  apprehension  of  their  striking 
fresh  root  and  growing  freely  at  this  time  if  kept  regularly  watered ; 
but  where  you  form  edgings  of  box  cuttings,  these  will  require  to  be 
carefully  shaded  from  the  sun,  at  least  for  a  month  after,  if  planted 
at  this  season. 


CLIP  HEDGES. 

Such  hedges  as  have  not  been  trimmed  in  the  preceding  month 
should  be  clipped  in  the  early  part  of  this,  before  the  shoots  get  hard. 

In  clipping  hedges,  always  take  particular  care  to  have  the  shears 
in  perfect  good  order,  that  you  may  be  able  to  make  neat  and  expe- 
ditious work.  Let  the  sides  of  the  full  grown  hedges  be  always  clip- 
ped in  nearly  to  the  former  year's  cut,  and  as  even  and  straight  as 
possible ;  for  it  tooks  awkward  and  not  workmanlike  to  see  the  sides 
of  hedges,  especially  garden  hedges,  waved  and  uneven  :  and  always 
observe  to  clip  a  hedge  in  such  a  way  as  to  slope  in  a  narrow  manner 
upiuards,  that  the  top  may  be  a  little  narrower  than  the  bottom,  and 
at  the  same  time  as  even  and  level  as  possible. 

In  clipping  young  hedges  under  training  be  cautious  not  to  cut 
them  too  close  above,  but  clip  the  top  off  regularly  to  retard  the 
luxuriant  shoots,  and  cause  them  to  branch  out  and  thicken  the 
hedge,  and  also  to  give  the  moderate  growths  an  equal  advantage  of 
air  and  room  to  advance  as  equally  as  possible;  cut  the  sides  with 
similar  care  but  closer,  and  always  sloping  inwards  or  narrowing  to- 
wards the  top;  for  by  thus  exposing  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the 
hedge  to  the  influence  of  the  air,  rain  and  dews,  all  parts  are  equally 
encouraged  in  growth,  and  the  whole  becomes  close  and  well  fur- 
nished ;  but  when  the  top  overhangs  the  bottom,  the  lower  branches, 
for  want  of  those  advantages,  decay,  and  the  hedge  becomes  thin 
below,  and  consequently  much  more  unfit  to  answer  the  end  than  if 
judiciously  trained. 


526  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 


GRASS  AND  GRAVEL  WALKS,  AND  LAWNS. 

Continue  to  treat  your  grass  and  gravel-walks,  and  lawns  as  directed 
on  page  415,  and  let  the  rough  edges  of  all  grass  lawns,  &c.,  adjoin- 
ing gravel-walks  and  principal  borders,  be  cut  close  and  neat  with  a 
very  sharp  edging  iron,  &c.,  which  will  give  an  additional  neatness 
and  becoming  appearance  to  the  whole. 

PREPARING  FOR  PLANTING. 

Prepare  now,  at  all  leisure  hours,  the  different  beds,  borders,  and 
composts  for  your  plantations  of  choice  tulips,  hyacinths,  anemones, 
ranunculuses,  and  other  flower  roots  which  are  to  be  planted  next 
month;  also  for  the  various  flowering  shrubs,  &c.,  that  the  hurry  of 
business  may  not  press  upon  you  too  much  at  once,  and  that  you 
may  be  the  better  able  to  do  everything  in  its  proper  season. 

TRANSPLANTING  EVERGREENS. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  should  necessity  require,  you  may 
transplant  such  evergreens  as  seem  to  have  ceased  growing,  provided 
you  can  remove  them  with  balls  of  earth,  or  that  they  are  to  be 
planted  in  shaded  places ;  but  in  either  case  it  will  be  necessary  to 
water  them  occasionally  in  dry  weather  for  three  or  four  weeks  after 
planting;  however,  if  the  season  proves  hot  and  dry,  it  will  be  better 
to  defer  that  work  till  October. 

THE  VALLISNERIA  AMERICANA. 

Some  account  of  the  Vallisneria  Americana  may  not  prove  unac- 
ceptable to  the  curious,  the  more  especially  as  it  tends  to  cast  some 
light  on  the  "  loves"  and  sexes  of  plants ;  and  it  is  also  the  best 
subject  to  place  under  a  microscope  to  exhibit  the  circulation  of  the 
sap. 

This  extraordinary  vegetable  production  grows  in  the  river  Dela- 
ware, not  far  from  Philadelphia,  and  may,  with  care,  be  introduced 
by  means  of  seeds  or  roots,  into  rivers,  ponds,  and  canals,  &c. 
Another  species,  the  Spiralis,  is  found  in  the  East  Indies,  in  Nor- 
way, and  various  parts  of  Italy.  The  American  species  flowers 
generally  in  the  latter  part  of  August  or  in  September. 

The  Vallisneria  belongs  to  the  class  Dioecia,  and  order  Diandria, 
bearing  male  and  female  flowers  on  separate  plants.  The  female 
plant  produces  long,  tubular,  purple  flowers,  which  stand  singly  on 
the  top  of  a  stalk,  curiously  twisted  in  the  form  of  a  screw,  which  is 
common  to  both  species;  when  the  flowers  are  about  to  expand,  this 
screw  or  spiral  stalk  relaxes  more  or  less  according  to  the  depth  of 
the  water,  and  suffers  the  flowers  to  rise  up  to  the  surface,  where 
they  float  in  expectation  of  a  visit  from  their  husbands. 

The  flowers  of  the  male  plant  are  very  numerous,  small,  and  of  a 
white  color ;  they  are  contained  within  a  spathe  or  sheath,  which 
stands  on  a  short  footstalk  that  never  rises  to  the  top  of  the  water ; 


SEPT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN. — GREEN-HOUSE.  52t 

the  flowers  being  arrived  at  maturity,  they  burst  open  the  spathe  in 
which  they  are  contained,  detach  themselves  from  the  receptacle  to 
which  they  are  fixed,  and  rise  up  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  where 
they  float  about  as  if  in  search  of  their  mates,  and  suddenly,  with  a 
kind  of  elasticity,  open  themselves  and  discharge  their  pollen,  which 
being  conveyed  to  the  female  flowers  growing  near  them,  or  scattered 
thereon,  impregnates  the  seeds  contained  within  the  germen. 

The  pollen  being  discharged  on  the  stigma,  the  embryo  seeds  are 
impregnated,  but  how  this  impregnation  is  effected  it  is  difficult  to 
say;  indeed,  while  the  affair  of  impregnation  in  animals  is  involved 
in  so  much  obscurity,  we  can  scarcely  expect  to  discover  more  of  it 
in  vegetables. 

It  has  been  the  opinion  of  some  of  the  early  writers  on  the  sexes 
of  plants,  that  the  pollen  in  substance  passed  through  the  style,  and 
so  impregnated  the  seeds  in  the  ovary ;  but  this  is  a  very  irrational 
supposition,  for  it  is  not  probable  that  the  pollen,  which  is  nothing 
more  than  a  case  for  the  true  sperm,  should  pass  through  a  part 
which  has  every  appearance  of  being  impervious  to  it. 

Whether  the  sperm  itself  be  conveyed  through  the  style  is  per- 
haps what  never  will  with  certainty  be  determined. 

The  hint  of  there  being  different  sexes  in  plants,  seems  first  to 
have  been  taken  from  the  Dicecm  class,  or  such  as  produce  (male) 
flowers  with  stamina  on  one  plant,  and  (female)  flowers  with  pistilla 
on  another. 

"  If  the  dust  of  the  branch  of  a  male  palm-tree,"  says  Aristotle, 
"  be  suspended  over  the  female,  the  fruit  of  the  latter  will  quickly 
ripen;  and  if  the  male  dust  be  carried  along  by  the  wind,  and  dis- 
persed upon  the  female,  the  same  effect  will  follow  as  if  a  branch  of 
the  male  had  been  suspended  over  it." 

"Naturalists,"  says  Pliny,  "admit  of  distinction  of  sex  not  only 
in  trees  but  in  herbs  and  all  plants;  yet  this  is  nowhere  more  ob- 
servable than  in  palms,  the  females  of  which  never  propagate  but 
when  they  are  fecundated  by  the  dust  of  the  male." 

Note. — Those  who  wish  to  become  scientifically  acquainted  with 
the  Linnaean,  or  sexual  system  of  plants,  will  be  greatly  edified  by 
consulting  that  very  valuable  w,ork,  the  Elements  of  Botany,  pub- 
lished in  1803  by  the  late  Benjamin  Smith  Barton,  M.  D.,  Professor 
of  Materia  Medica,  Natural  History,  and  Botany  in  the  University  of 
Pennsylvania.  The  botanist  will  also  consult  Longman  and  Green's 
Structural  Botany,  Gray's  Text-Book,  and  Lindley's  School  Botany. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

In  the  eastern  States,  between  the  fifteenth  and  latter  end  of  this 
month,  according  to  local  situations,  the  nights  will  be  getting  cold, 
and  consequently  the  more  tender  kinds  of  green-house  plants  must 
be  taken  in  before  they  change  their  color  by  too  much  cold,  leaving 


528  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [SEPT, 

the  hardy  sorts  out  as  long  as  there  is  no  danger  of  their  being  at- 
tacked by  frost. 

Some  people  are  desirous  to  keep  out  their  plants  as  long  as  possi- 
ble ;  this  is  very  right,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  extended  to  too  hazard- 
ous a  period,  for  one  night's  frost  would  cause  the  leaves  to  lose 
their  fine  green  color,  which  perhaps  might  not  be  restored  during 
the  whole  winter,  and  if  any  way  severe,  serious  injury  might  be  sus- 
tained. 

If  the  windows  and  doors  are  kept  open  day  and  night,  as  long  as 
there  is  safety  in  so  doing,  the  plants  will  be  nearly  as  well  off  as  if 
in  the  open  air,  and  no  danger  is  encountered  :  the  mere  difference 
of  five  or  six  days  in  the  taking  in  of  the  plants  will  insure  safety ; 
but  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  not  right  to  be  too  precipitate  in  housing 
them  before  the  common  appearance  of  the  weather  indicates  the 
necessity. 

For  further  particulars  respecting  the  housing  of  the  plants,  see 
next  month,  which  is  the  period  for  doing  that  business  in  the  middle 
States. 

In  the  middle  and  other  States  where  frosts  do  not  frequently  ap- 
pear before  the  middle  of  October,  the  plants  are  to  be  taken  care  of 
as  directed  in  the  preceding  months ;  observing  to  decrease  the  usual 
supply  of  water  in  proportion  to  the  moistness  and  coldness  of  the 
weather,  for  the  administering  of  it  too  copiously  when  there  is  not 
a  necessity,  would  be  very  injurious.  And  let  it  be  particularly  ob- 
served, that  as  soon  as  the  cold  nights  set  in,  which  may  be  about 
the  middle  of  this  month  or  sooner,  the  water  must  be  given  to  the 
plants  in  the  morning,  for  if  given  late  in  the  afternoon  as  in  the 
preceding  months,  the  chill  occasioned  by  it  and  the  coldness  of  the 
nights,  would  change  the  color  of  the  foliage  from  a  fine  green  to  a 
yellowish  cast,  whereby  much  of  their  beauty  would  be  lost,  as  well 
as  the  plants  themselves  in  some  degree  injured. 

If  any  are  in  want  of  larger  pots  or  tubs,  they  may  be  shifted  in 
the  beginning  of  this  month,  but  on  no  account  defer  it  later,  that 
the  plants  may  have  time  to  strike  some  fresh  roots  before  winter. 
And  if,  in  consequence  of  a  bad  state  of  health,  any  had  been  planted 
in  baskets  in  the  borders  as  recommended  on  page  454,  they  must, 
early  in  this  month,  be  taken  up  and  re-potted ;  observing  to  take 
them  up  carefully,  to  trim  off  the  wide  extended  roots,  cut  the  bas- 
kets away,  and  plant  them  with  the  entire  balls  in  the  pots  or  tubs 
destined  for  their  reception ;  after  which  give  them  water  and  place 
them  in  some  shady  warm  situation,  till  the  time  for  housing  them. 

Any  young  green-house  plants  raised  this  or  last  year  from  seeds, 
slips,  cuttings,  or  suckers,  and  that  are  growing  too  close  together  in 
pots,  &c.,  should,  if  well  rooted,  be  transplanted  in  the  early  part  of 
this  month  into  pots,  singly,  and  be  immediately  watered  and  placed 
in  the  shade  for  a  week  or  two ;  or  of  such  as  are  very  small,  two, 
three,  or  more  may  be  planted  in  a  pot,  and  treated  in  like  manner. 
But  those  that  have  been  raised  from  slips  or  cuttings  and  that  are 
not  well  rooted,  and  consequently  not  much  advanced  in  top-growth, 
should  be  suffered  to  remain  in  their  present  pots  till  spring  or  au- 
tumn next. 


SEPT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  529 

Any  green-house  plants  propagated  in  the  open  ground,  or  in  beds, 
during  the  course  of  the  summer,  should  be  taken  up  in  the  first 
week  of  this  month,  with  balls  of  earth,  potted  and  treated  as  above. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month  you  should  plant  your  ixias,  wal- 
chendorfias,  oxalises,  gladioluses,  Watsonias,  cyanellas,  babianas,  tri- 
tonias,  Massonias,  melasphserulas,  antholizas,  moreas,  Laperousias, 
lachenalias,  melanthiums,  geissorhizas,  with  all  the  other  different 
kinds  of  the  more  tender  bulbs,  either  obtained  from  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  or  elsewhere ;  especially  such  of  them  as  show  the  least 
disposition  to  produce  fibres  from  the  roots ;  for  if  kept  out  of  the 
ground  much  longer,  after  this  appearance,  they  would  be  greatly 
injured  thereby. 

The  proper  compost  for  the  generality  of  the  above  kinds,  is  one- 
hajf  rich  fresh  loam,  one-half  bog  earth,  or  earth  of  rotten  leaves, 
and  a  small  portion  of  drift  or  river  sand. 

They  are  to  be  planted  in  pots  of  quart  size,  from  one  to  five  roots 
in  each,  a  greater  number  if  very  small,  and  covered  about  an  inch 
deep ;  the  pots  are  then  to  be  placed  in  the  green-house  windows,  and 
to  get  but  very  little  water  till  the  foliage  appear  above  ground,  and 
even  after,  it  is  to  be  but  sparingly  administered,  for  too  much  mois- 
ture would  infallibly  rot  the  bulbs. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  take  into  the  green-house  all  your 
succulent  and  other  tender  plants,  such  as  stapelias,  cactuses,  aloes, 
cycas  revoluta,  agaves,  &c.,  and  place  them  in  front  near  the  win- 
dows, where  they  can  have  the  benefit  of  the  sun  and  air.  Collect 
your  geraniums,  at  the  same  time,  and  all  other  plants  that  tend  to 
succulency,  and  arrange  them  in  front  of  the  green-house,  there  to 
remain  till  it  is  found  necessary  to  take  them  in.  (See  next  month.') 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

REPAIRING  THE  LIGHTS  AND  CLEANING  THE  HOUSE. 

If  the  roof-lights  had  in  the  course  of  the  summer  been  taken  off 
any  of  the  hot-house  departments,  they  should  be  replaced  early  in 
the  month,  and  all  the  glass-work  of  the  entire  house  or  houses  put 
in  the  best  possible  repair.  Examine  the  wood-work  and  see  that  all 
is  tight  and  in  good  condition.  If  new  painting  of  the  timbers, 
sashes,  or  any  other  part  is  necessary,  and  it  has  not  been  done  in  the 
preceding  months,  it  should  be  no  longer  neglected. 

Indeed  it  would  be  of  considerable  advantage  at  this  time,  pre- 
vious to  the  taking  in  of  the  plants,  to  give  a  complete  and  thorough 
cleaning,  painting,  and  white-washing  to  the  entire  house ;  and  if  in- 
fested with  insects,  to  fumigate  it  effectually ;  and  also  to  wash  the 
entire  of  the  inside  with  a  very  strong  solution  of  corrosive  sublimate, 
and,  if  thought  necessary,  to  clean  away  every  morsel  of  old  bark  out 
of  the  pits,  carry  it  off  to  a  considerable  distance,  and  replace  it  with 
fresh  tan.  Any  plants  remaining  in  this  department  may  be  removed 
34 


530  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [SEPT. 

into  the  green-bouse  while  this  work  is  going  on,  and  these  should 
be  effectually  washed  and  cleaned,  if  infested  with  these  insects, 
before  their  being  replaced. 

This  cleansing,  fumigating,  &c.,  will  destroy  most,  if  not  all,  of 
the  lurking  insects  which  have  taken  shelter  in  the  various  parts  of 
the  house,  and  which,  by  and  by,  if  not  destroyed,  would  sally  forth 
and  make  a  formidable  and,  perhaps,  destructive  attack  upon  your 
plants ;  every  timely  precaution  ought  to  be  taken  to  keep  the  house 
clean  and  sweet,  and  the  plants  free  from  vermin. 

TAKING  IN  THE  PLANTS. 

The  more  tender  kinds  of  hot-house  exotics  which  are  arranged  out 
of  doors  should,  in  the  middle  States,  be  taken  into  the  green-house 
about  the  tenth  of  this  month,  and  the  others  successively,  according 
to  their  respective  degrees  of  tenderness,  so  that  the  whole  collection 
may  be  in  by  the  eighteenth  or  twentieth  thereof,  or  a  few  days 
earlier  should  the  weather  happen  to  be  cold.  Here  they  are  to  re- 
main, closing  the  windows  at  night  and  giving  them  all  the  air  pos- 
sible on  warm  and  mild  days,  till  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or 
sooner  if  you  have  the  hot-house  ready  for  their  reception. 

"When  you  have  everything  in  readiness  dress  the  plants  by  pick- 
ing off  all  decayed  leaves,  and  especially  those  which  are  annoyed 
with  insects,  cut  away  all  awkward  and  ill-placed  branches,  give  each 
pot  a  fresh  top  dressing  of  suitable  compost,  and  place  the  smallest 
in  front  and  the  tallest  behind,  on  the  shelves  of  the  stage.  The 
succulent  sorts  may  be  set  on  shelves  arranged  over  the  flues,  &c. 

Now  the  plants  being  in  order  and  placed  in  their  winter  quarters, 
it  will  be  of  much  importance  to  give  them  plenty  of  air  every  favor- 
able day  by  sliding  open  the  upright  glasses,  and  also  the  roof-lights 
if  necessary,  in  order  to  prevent  their  being  drawn  up  too  tender 
before  winter,  for  the  fresh  bottom  heat  will  give  new  action  to  the 
plants,  and  render  abundance  of  air  the  more  necessary;  observe, 
however,  to  close  the  lights  every  evening  when  the  house  is  tolerably 
warm,  and  to  open  them  as  early  in  the  morning  as  you  find  the 
thermometer  up  to  60  degrees  of  Fahrenheit. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  mention  that  every  plant  must  have  a 
due  supply  of  water,  from  time  to  time,  according  to  its  nature  and 
necessity. 

PINE-APPLE. 

Succession  pine  plants  which  are  expected  to  produce  fruit  next 
year  may,  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  omitted  in  July  and 
August,  be  shifted  as  directed  j  but  on  no  account  should  this  be 
delayed  longer.  Where  it  has  been  done  in  the  preceding  months, 
and  at  that  time  no  fresh  tan  added,  it  will  now  be  necessary  to  exa- 
mine the  heat  of  the  bark-bed  in  the  succession  house,  wherein  the 
plants  in  general  are  plunged,  and  if  you  find  it  very  weak  fork  up 
the  tan  to  the  bottom,  and  plunge  in  the  pots  again  immediately  to 
their  rims. 


SEPT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  531 

This  will  revive  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  continue  in  a  due  tem- 
perature till  next  month,  when  the  plants  must  be  removed  into  the 
fruiting-house,  and  plunged  in  a  bed  made  wholly  of  new  tan. 

The  younger  succession  pines  intended  to  succeed  those,  if  not 
lately  done,  should  not  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  the  tan  forked 
up,  and  the  pots  replunged  immediately  after  having  received  a 
little  water. 

CROWNS  AND  SUCKERS. 

The  crowns  and  suckers  of  this  year's  production  will  require  a 
brisk  bottom  heat  to  enable  the  plants  to  make  good  roots  before 
winter ;  therefore  examine  the  bed,  and  if  it  is  declined  in  heat  fork 
it  up  and  replunge  the  pots  immediately ;  but  if  these  were  placed 
on  a  dung  hot-bed  it  may  be  necessary  to  renew  the  heat  by  a  lining 
of  fresh  hot  dung  applied  to  the  sides,  or  to  the  sides  and  ends ;  or 
if  the  bed  is  much  sunk  to  work  it  up  afresh,  adding  some  new  dung 
thereto,  laying  on  the  top,  as  before,  several  inches  of  light  earth  or 
tan  in  which  to  plunge  the  pots.  After  this  it  will  be  necessary  to 
give  a  considerable  portion  of  air  to  the  plants,  and  to  raise  the 
glasses  behind  when  you  find  the  steam  rising  in  the  bed.  When 
the  nights  begin  to  grow  cold  cover  the  glasses  carefully  with  mats, 
and  be  very  cautious  not  to  keep  your  lights  close  in  sunny  days. 

All  your  succession  pines  should  have  plenty  of  air  at  this  season, 
which,  with  a  moderate  and  steady  bottom  heat,  will  keep  them  in  a 
growing  and  prosperous  state,  but  by  no  means  are  they  to  be  forced 
too  much  nor  too  much  confined,  as  by  such  treatment  some  of  the 
most  forward  might  start  into  fruit  at  an  untimely  season,  and  all 
would  be  rendered  more  unfit  to  bear  the  vicissitudes  of  the  winter 
season  than  if  they  were  properly  inured  to  the  air  and  gradually 
hardened ;  but  still  there  may  be  an  excess  in  this  as  well  as  the 
other,  both  of  which  are  equally  to  be  avoided. 

PROCURING   FRESH   TAN. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  should  procure  a  quantity 
of  fresh  tan,  if  you  employ  this  article,  from  the  tan-yards,  for  the 
purpose  of  making  new  beds  in  the  next  month  for  those  plants 
which  you  expect  to  produce  fruit  in  the  ensuing  year,  and  also  for 
the  succession  pines.  When  the  tan  is  brought  home  it  will  be  pro- 
per to  throw  it  up  in  a  heap  to  drain  and  ferment  for  ten  or  twelve 
days  before  it  is  put  into  the  pits.  But  if  it  is  very  wet,  as  is  com- 
monly the  case  when  thrown  up  out  of  the  tan-vats,  it  should  be 
spread  thinly  for  two  or  three  days,  that  the  sun  and  air  may  draw 
off  or  exhale  the  superabundant  moisture;  for  if  used  too  wet,  it 
would  be  a  long  time  before  it  would  acquire  a  sufficient  degree  of 
heat. 

PREPARE   COMPOSTS. 

The  composts  proper  for  pines  are  described  on  page  480,  and  if 
you  have  not  hitherto  prepared  such  as  may  be  wanted  next  season, 
that  business  should  be  delayed  no  longer. 


532  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [SEPT. 

For  most  of  the  shrubby  tribe  and  herbaceous  plants  of  the  hot- 
house, prepare  equal  parts  of  good  light  garden  earth  and  mellow 
surface  loam  from  a  rich  pasture  ground,  with  the  turf;  add  to  these 
a  fourth  of  very  rotten  or  old  hot-bed  dung,  and  let  the  whole  be 
duly  incorporated  and  exposed  to  the  weather  several  months  before 
it  is  used,  turning  the  heap  over  every  five  or  six  weeks. 


A  PLANT  CABINET. 

A  "  plant  cabinet/'  while  it  scarcely  aspires  to  the  dignity  of  a 
conservatory,  possesses  the  attractions  of  one,  and  gives  the  family 
of  the  possessor  as  much  pleasure  as  a  more  expensive  arrangement. 

A  bay-window,  in  one  of  the  most  frequented  rooms  (Fig.  58), 
suggested  itself  as  a  suitable  place  for  bringing  the  plants  as  they 
bloomed,  from  a  small  green-house  too  distant  from  the  dwelling  to 
be  visited  in  bad  weather. 

Simple  glas"s  sashes  to  fit  the  opening  were  procured ;  they  open 
like  a  double  door ;  shelves  on  one  side  support  the  plants,  and  small 
wooden  brackets  screwed  on  to  the  walls  here  and  there,  assist  to 
furnish  this  little  jewel  of  beauty.  In  the  centre  is  an  ornamental 
post,  of  red  cedar  varnished,  up  which  climbs  two  different  colored 
Maurandia  Barclayanas,  and  the  top  is  ornamented  with  a  golden 
fern.  In  front  are  seen  two  China  seats ;  on  these  are  placed  orna- 
mental long-stemmed  climbing  plants,  and  hanging  vases  assist  ma- 
terially in  the  effect.  During  winter  the  cabinet  is  gay  with  the 
finest  camellias  and  other  flowers.  Chrysanthemums,  at  the  proper 
season,  give  it  their  peculiar  attractions.  In  short,  there  are  few 
plants  that  are  not  exhibited  in  succession;  even  orchideous,  and 
other  tender  varieties,  are  introduced  with  success.  In  extremely 
cold  weather  the  door  is  left  a  little  ajar  to  admit  the  warmth  of  the 
room,  especially  at  night,  and  the  thermometer  has  not  yet  fallen  be- 
low 45°. 

The  whole  cost  of  fitting  up  this  beautiful  case,  exclusive  of  the 
flowering  plants,  did  not  exceed  twenty-five  dollars.  It  gives  com- 
pleteness and  beauty,  and  an  expression  to  the  house  that  could  be 
produced  in  no  other  mode  so  cheaply.  But  it  has  a  higher  object; 
it  embues  all  connected  with  the  mansion  with  a  love  of  flowers,  and 
gratifies  many  senses.  A  pair  of  Canary  birds  are  sometimes  let  out 
of  their  cages  to  enjoy  the  liberty  of  the  cabinet. 

Cowper,  in  his  happiest  manner,  has  alluded  thus  to  the  love  of 
Nature's  works  : — 

"  The  love  of  Nature's  works 
Is  an  ingredient  in  the  compound,  man, 
Infused  at  the  creation  of  the  kind. 
And,  though  th'  Almighty  Maker  has  throughout 
Discriminated  each  from  each,  by  strokes 
And  touches  of  his  hand,  with  so  much  art 
Diversified,  that  two  were  never  found 
Twins  at  all  points — yet  this  obtains  in  all, 
That  all  discern  a  beauty  in  his  works, 
And  all  can  taste  them." 


SEPT] 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Fig.  58. 


533 


A  Plant  Cabinet. 


534  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

By  introducing  such  a  cabinet  into  a  sitting-room,  the  beauties  of 
nature  are  made  accessible  in  the  severest  season.  There  would  be 
no  necessity  of  having  a  green-house  to  resort  to,  to  fill  such  a  case ; 
without  leaving  their  comfortably  warmed  rooms,  ladies  can  attend 
to  their  pets,  which  by  employing  water  in  dishes  for  the  sake  of  the 
evaporation,  will  possess  as  healthy  an  atmosphere  as  the  gardener's 
case.  As  much  light  as  possible  should  be  given.  The  cactus  tribe 
would  thrive  here  remarkably  well. 


OCTOBER. 
WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

WINTER   SPINAGE. 

Weed  and  thin  your  advancing  crops  of  spinage ;  in  doing  this  ob- 
serve to  leave  the  best  plants,  and  at  the  distance  of  three,  four,  or 
five  inches  asunder,  according  to  the  progress  in  growth  of  the  suc- 
cessive crops,  leaving  the  greatest  space  between  the  most  forward  in 
growth ;  or  the  plants  may  only  be  moderately  thinned  now  in  order 
to  admit  of  drawing  some  out  by  degrees  for  use. 

Some  of  the  spinage  sown  in  August  will  now  be  fit  for  the  table, 
and  if  the  plants  were  left  too  thick  let  them  be  thinned  out  regu- 
larly by  pulling  some  up  by  the  roots  as  they  are  wanted  for  use; 
but  if  the  plants  were  properly  thinned  before,  gather  only  the  out- 
side large  leaves,  and  the  others  will  advance  for  culinary  purposes 
in  regular  succession. 

Let  it  be  particularly  observed  that  spinage  will  rot  off  wherever 
the  weeds  spread  over  it,  and  that  consequently  it  is  necessary  to 
keep  it  very  clean. 

LETTUCES. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month  transplant  from  the  seed-beds  into 
others,  of  light  rich  earth,  in  a  warm  exposure,  and  of  such  dimen- 
sions as  to  be  covered  with  your  frames  on  the  approach  of  frost,  the 
lettuce  plants  arising  from  the  late  August  or  early  September  sow- 
ings. Plant  them  in  rows  five  or  six  inches  distant  every  way,  so 
that  every  second  plant  may  be  taken  up  either  for  use  or  future 
planting,  leaving  the  others  sufficient  room  to  grow  and  to  head  in 
the  greatest  perfection. 

Likewise  plant  some  stout  plants  immediately  in  frames  for  use  in 
the  latter  end  of  November,  December,  &c.,  covering  them  only  at 
night  till  severe  frosts  set  in. 

Lettuces  designed  to  remain  where  sown   till  spring,  should  be 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  535 

duly  thinned  as  they  advance  in  growth,  and  always  kept  free  from 
weeds. 

The  various  successive  crops  of  lettuces  should  be  transplanted 
where  they  are  to  remain  during  winter,  whether  on  warm  borders, 
in  slight  hot-beds,  or  under  frames  and  glasses,  as  early  in  this  month 
as  they  shall  have  attained  to  two  or  three  inches  in  growth  ;  and  in- 
deed a  judicious  gardener  will  always  have  a  regular  succession  of 
these  plants  to  guard  against  every  kind  of  disappointment,  and  the 
better  to  insure  a  constant  supply. 

In  the  middle  States,  if  the  winter  is  tolerably  mild,  but  particu- 
larly in  the  southern  States,  lettuces  will  stand  in  warm  south  bor- 
ders of  light  sandy  ground  with  a  very  slight  protection,  and  afford 
an  early  supply  in  spring;  in  these  beds  or  borders  they  may  be 
planted  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  inches  every  way,  and  the 
supernumerary  plants  may  be  taken  up  in  March  and  planted  either 
in  hot-beds  for  forcing,  or  into  other  beds  in  warm  exposures  for 
heading  in  due  season. 

The  lettuces  which  you  plant  in  warm  borders  in  the  open  ground 
may,  on  the  approach  of  winter,  be  protected  by  placing  hoops  over 
the  beds,  on  which  to  lay  mats  or  other  covering  in  severe  weather, 
or  by  placing  a  frame  of  boards  around  them,  on  which  to  lay  others 
slightly  covered  with  litter  when  necessity  requires;  or  by  sticking 
in  small  branches  of  pine  or  cedar  between  the  rows,  which  will 
yield  them  considerable  protection,  especially  if  some  long,  dry  straw 
be  laid  over  these  in  frosty  or  cutting  weather.  Or  you  may  stick 
down  forked  sticks  about  a  foot  high,  lay  long  poles  from  one  fork 
to  another,  and  on  these  boughs  of  pine  or  cedar  pretty  thick,  and 
likewise  around  the  edges  of  the  beds;  those  branches  being  sup- 
ported ten  or  twelve  inches  above  the  plants  will  admit  a  free  circu- 
lation of  air  and  prevent  mouldiness.  This  protection  is  not  to  be 
given  until  the  severe  frosts  commence,  nor  is  it  then  to  be  taken 
entirely  off,  especially  in  sunshine,  until  after  the  general  thaw  takes 
place  in  spring ;  on  very  dry,  mild  days,  when  the  sun  does  not  shine, 
or  when  it  is  not  powerful,  you  may  take  off  the  covering  for  a  few 
hours  to  air  the  plants;  but  you  must  as  carefully  guard  against 
strong  sunshine,  especially  towards  the  latter  end  of  February,  as 
against  the  most  severe  frosts ;  for  after  tender  plants  are  severely 
pinched  by  frost,  a  too  powerful  sun  literally  dissolves  and  destroys 
them ;  whereas,  if  they  were  protected  from  such  till  gradually  re- 
covered and  the  commencement  of  free  vegetation,  there  would  not 
be  the  least  danger  of  their  success.  This  is  not  common  to  lettuces 
only,  but  to  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants,  stock-gilly  flowers,  wall 
flowers,  and  every  other  kind  that  can  be  in  the  least  affected  by 
frost. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month  sow  some  of  the  brown  Dutch 
hardy  cabbage,  and  Hammersmith  hardy  green  lettuces  in  a  frame 
or  frames,  to  be  kept  where  sown,  during  winter,  under  the  protec- 
tion of  glasses,  &c.,  in  order  to  afford  a  supply  of  young  plants  for 
forcing  or  planting  out  in  the  early  spring  months. 


536  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 


CABBAGE  PLANTS. 

The  young  cabbage  plants  arising  from  the  seeds  sown  last  month, 
and  intended  for  the  production  of  early  summer  cabbages  should,  as 
soon  in  this  month  as  they  shall  have  attained  a  sufficient  size,  be 
planted  into  the  beds  in  which  they  are  to  remain  during  winter. 

Let  a  bed  or  beds  be  prepared  for  them  in  a  warm,  well  sheltered 
part  of  the  garden,  where  the  sun  has  the  greater  power ;  for  although 
direct  sunshine,  when  the  plants  are  in  a  frozen  state,  is  almost  cer- 
tain destruction  to  tnem,  yet  its  influence  will  prevent  that  intense 
frost  so  prevalent  in  colder  aspects ;  and  when  the  plants  at  such 
times  are  screened  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  its  reflected  heat 
comforts  without  injuring  them. 

The  beds  should  be  made  the  width  of  your  garden-frames,  and 
the  plants  set  therein  up  to  their  leaves  in  rows  about  three  or  four 
inches  distant  every  way.  When  thus  transplanted  they  will  sur- 
vive the  winter  much  better  than  in  the  seed-beds,  for  their  long 
stems  being  buried  into  the  earth,  are  protected  thereby  from  alter- 
nate freezing  and  thawing,  and  the  effects  of  the  various  changes  of 
weather,  than  which  there  is  nothing  more  injurious  to  tender 
plants.  The  stems  of  these  and  cauliflower  plants  are  injured  before 
the  foliage,  and  it  is  of  importance  to  keep  those  tender  parts  in  an 
equal  temperature,  by  which  they  will  be  preserved  much  longer 
even  if  in  a  frozen  state  than  if  they  were  exposed  to  alternate  frost 
and  heat. 

Select  good  plants  from  the  seed-beds,  and,  when  planted,  give 
them  a  gentle  watering  to  settle  the  earth  about  their  roots,  observ- 
ing not  to  apply  it  too  hastily  lest  you  wash  the  earth  into  their 
hearts. 

Put  on  the  frames  immediately,  and  also  the  lights,  but  the  glasses 
are  now  to  be  continued  on  only  four  or  five  days  till  the  plants  have 
taken  fresh  root ;  observing  during  that  period  to  shade  the  plants 
with  mats  or  other  protection  from  the  mid-day  sun ;  but  when  they 
have  taken  sufficient  root  the  lights  are  to  be  taken  totally  off,  and 
the  plants  left  fully  exposed  till  the  setting  in  of  smart  frosts,  except 
in  very  cold  nights  or  during  the  prevalence  of  cold  heavy  rains  ]  for 
it  is  of  considerable  moment  to  have  the  plants  tolerably  hardy  on 
the  commencement  of  severe  weather. 

But  if  they  happen  to  be  in  a  backward  state  you  should  keep  on 
the  glasses  every  night  to  encourage  their  growth. 

When  you  have  not  the  convenience  of  glass,  you  may  defend  the 
plants  sufficiently  in  winter  by  means  of  boards  and  mats. 

Or,  in  the  middle  and  southern  States,  you  may  plant  some  in  a 
warm  border  to  be  defended  in  like  manner,  as  before  directed  for 
lettuces ;  and  if  the  winter  proves  tolerably  mild,  they  may  happen 
to  stand  it  pretty  well.  But  if  at  any  time,  particularly  towards  the 
end  of  February  or  early  in  March,  you  expose  the  plants  to  a  warm 
sun,  while  they  or  the  earth  in  which  they  stand  are  in  a  frozen 
state,  it  will  inevitably  destroy  them. 

You  should  in  mild  warm  weather,  when  the  sun  is  not  powerful, 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  537 

give  them  an  occasional  airing,  and  the  oftener  this  can  be  done,  so 
that  they  are  covered  up  again  in  due  time,  the  better. 

Similar  precautions  are  to  be  used  with  plants  in  frames  that  are 
frozen,  but  such  as  are  not,  will  be  improved  by  exposing  them  occa- 
sionally to  as  much  air  and  sun  as  prudence  may  warrant  till  planted 
out  finally  in  March,  &c. 

By  pursuing  this  method  you  will  have  much  earlier  and  larger 
cabbages  than  can  be  expected  from  plants  sown  in  the  early  spring 
months. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

The  cauliflower  plants  are  to  be  treated  in  every  respect  as  directed 
for  cabbage  plants,  with  this  difference,  that  as  they  are  somewhat 
more  tender  they  will  require  the  protection  and  advantage  of  glasses 
and  a  good  substantial  covering  to  defend  them  from  severe  frosts, 
though  in  mild  winters  they,  with  due  care,  will  survive  under  the 
protection  of  garden  frames  covered  with  boards  and  mats. 

As  the  cauliflower  plants  advance  in  growth,  it  will  be  proper  to 
strew  between  them  some  dry  tan,  sawdust,  or  chaff,  so  as  to  cover 
the  stems  completely  up  to  the  leaves ;  this  will  afford  great  protec- 
tion to  those  parts  which  are  always  found  to  be  the  most  vulnerable 
to  frost,  &c. 

If  you  find,  in  consequence  of  an  unfavorable  season  or  of  your 
not  sowing  the  cauliflower  seed  in  due  time,  the  plants  to  be  rather 
backward,  you  should  prick  them  from  the  seed-bed  on  a  slight 
hot-bed  to  promote  their  growth ;  but  in  this  case  you  must  be  par- 
ticularly attentive  to  give  them  plenty  of  air,  that  the  plants  may  be 
stout  and  hardy  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather. 

You  should  carefully  protect  the  cauliflower  plants  from  excessive 
heavy  rains,  especially  when  the  nights  get  pretty  cold,  for  such  are 
very  injurious  to  them  and  frequently  cause  their  stems  to  turn  black, 
which  always  proves  destructive. 

In  the  southern  States,  where  the  winters  are  mild,  and  where  it 
is  difficult  to  have  good  cauliflowers,  except  they  can  be  obtained  at 
an  early  season  before  the  great  summer  heat  sets  in,  which  is  very 
inimical  to  those  plants,  the  only  sure  way  of  obtaining  them  in  the 
best  perfection  is,  to  be  provided  with  a  sufficient  number  of  bell  or 
hand-glasses,  under  which  to  plant  them  out  finally  about  the  latter 
end  of  this  month. 

The  ground  for  this  early  crop  should  be  very  rich,  tolerably  light, 
in  a  warm  situation,  and  where  water  is  not  apt  to  stand  in  winter. 
The  ground  is  to  be  previously  well  manured  with  old  hot-bed  or  other 
well  rotted  dung,  and  then  dug  one  good  spade  deep  at  least,  break- 
ing it  effectually  and  incorporating  the  dung  well  therewith. 

Then  lay  it  out  into  beds  three  feet  wide,  and  allow  alleys  a  foot 
wide  between  them,  for  the  convenience  of  going  in  to  take  off,  put 
on,  or  raise  the  glasses,  &c.,  stretch  your  line  along  the  middle  of 
the  bed  from  one  end  to  the  other,  and  at  every  three  feet  and  a  half 
mark  the  places  for  the  glasses,  and  for  each,  put  in  three,  four,  or 
more  plants  according  to  the  size  of  the  glasses,  and  within  about  six 


538  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

inches  of  one  another ;  close  the  earth  well  about  their  roots  and 
stems,  and  give  them  a  moderate  watering.  When  the  whole  are 
planted  set  on  your  glasses,  observing  to  place  one  over  every  patch 
of  plants  as  above. 

The  glasses  are  to  be  kept  close  down  for  about  eight  days  till  the 
plants  have  taken  fresh  root  and  begin  to  grow,  when  they  are  to  be 
raised  on  one  side  and  supported  with  pieces  of  wood,  stone,  or  brick- 
bats, &c.,  about  two  or  three  inches  thick,  or  they  may  be  supported 
with  notched  wooden  pegs  or  forked  sticks,  placing  them  on  the  south 
side,  one  prop  under  each  glass.  In  this  manner  they  are  to  remain 
night  and  day  until  the  frosts  set  in ;  but  if  the  plants  are  much 
advanced  in  growth  before  that  period,  which  will  seldom  be  the 
case,  except  in  the  more  southern  States,  it  will  be  proper  to  set  the 
glasses  off  in  the  middle  of  mild,  dry  days,  but  keep  them  always 
over  the  plants  at  night  and  in  wet  or  frosty  weather ;  in  keeping 
the  glasses  over  the  plants  to  defend  them  from  excessive  or  inces- 
sant rains,  if  open  mild  weather,  they  must  be  raised  two  or  three 
inches  on  the  warmest  side,  in  the  manner  before  observed,  to  admit 
a  sufficiency  of  air. 

When  the  frost  sets  in,  close  down  the  glasses,  and  keep  them  so 
during  its  continuance;  observing  on  a  favorable  change  to  give  the 
plants  a  little  air  occasionally,  and  to  pick  off  any  mouldy  or  decayed 
leaves.  As  early  in  spring  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety,  plant  out 
the  extra  plants  into  other  beds  similarly  prepared,  or  rather  as  di- 
rected in  April,  leaving  only  one  or  two  of  the  best  under  each  glass ; 
at  the  same  time  draw  the  earth  up  around  the  stems  of  those  left, 
and  raise  the  glasses  on  props  as  the  plants  advance  in  growth  till 
they  become  too  much  confined ;  then  take  off  the  glasses  totally, 
observing  to  earth  them  up  occasionally,  and  finally  to  treat  them  as 
directed  in  May. 

In  places  where  the  winters  are  somewhat  severe,  mats  or  straw 
should  be  placed  over  and  around  each  glass  during  the  prevalence 
of  hard  frost. 

This  method  may  be  practised  successively  in  warm  soils  and  ex- 
posures in  the  middle  States ;  but  it  will  require  more  than  ordinary 
care  to  preserve  them  in  good  perfection. 

The  late  spring  sown  cauliflowers  will  now  begin  to  show  their 
heads ;  therefore  they  must .  be  diligently  looked  over  two  or  three 
times  a  week,  to  break  down  some  of  the  inner  leaves  upon  the 
flowers,  which  will  protect  them  from  sun,  frost,  and  wet,  either  of 
which  would  change  their  color  and  cause  them  to  be  unsightly. 


Early  in  this  month  give  a  general  hoeing  and  earthing  up  to  all 
the  late  planted  advancing  crops  of  broccoli,  cabbages,  savoys  and 
borecole,  in  order  to  forward  and  strengthen  their  growth  as  much 
as  possible  before  winter;  likewise  to  the  late  cauliflowers  and  every 
other  of  the  cabbage  tribe. 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  539 


MUSHROOMS. 

Having  the  dung  for  the  mushroom  bed  duly  prepared,  and  the 
spawn  in  readinesss,  as  advised  in  September,  you  should  in  the 
first  week,  or  rather  about  the  first  day  of  this  month,  begin  to  make 
the  bed. 

With  respect  to  the  situation  in  which  to  make  the  bed,  it  should 
be  in  an  elevated  part  of  the  hot-bed  yard,  or  in  some  dry  and  well 
sheltered  place.  The  bed  ought  to  be  made  entirely  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  rather  than  forming  a  shallow  trench  in  which  to 
make  the  bottom  part,  as  practised  by  some ;  for  by  the  former 
method  it  can  be  spawned  quite  to  the  bottom,  and  the  lower  part 
will  not  be  chilled  by  standing  water  in  cold  or  wet  weather,  and 
particularly  as  the  part  sunk  in  the  ground  may  be  considered  as 
totally  useless. 

The  width  of  the  bed  at  bottom  should  be  from  three  to  four  feet, 
and  any  length  you  please,  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  mush- 
rooms required,  or  the  quantity  of  spawn  with  which  you  are  pro- 
vided. 

Being  furnished  with  a  three  tined  fork,  begin  to  make  the  bed  by 
shaking  some  of  the  longest  of  the  prepared  dung  evenly  all  along 
the  bottom  four  or  five  inches  thick ;  then  take  the  dung  in  general 
as  it  comes  and  work  it  into  the  bed,  gradually  narrowing  it  upwards, 
shaking  and  mixing  the  dung  as  you  proceed  and  beating  it  down 
with  the  fork  layer  by  layer  :  proceed  in  this  manner,  still  drawing 
in  the  sides  of  the  bed  till  it  terminates  in  a  narrow  ridge  at  top,  so 
that  the  bed  may  be  formed  like  the  roof  of  a  house  :  be  careful  that 
each  end  shall  be  sloped  in  like  manner  as  the  sides,  and  that  all 
parts  are  made  full  and  firm  by  beating  with  a  fork  as  you  proceed, 
to  preserve  uniformity  and  to  prevent  its  settling  down  too  much  in 
an  unequal  manner :  it  should  be  full  three  or  three  and  a  half  feet 
perpendicular  height  when  settled. 

When  the  bed  is  finished,  it  should  be  covered  with  long  straw, 
laid  on  neatly  to  keep  out  wet,  and  also  to  prevent  its  drying  ;  in 
this  state  it  is  to  remain  about  ten  or  twelve  days,  by  which  time  it 
will  be  in  a  fit  condition  to  be  spawned ;  but  to  ascertain  the  state  of 
the  bed  with  the  greater  certainty,  put  in  a  few  long  sharp-pointed 
sticks  into  several  parts  thereof,  pull  out  and  feel  these  occasionally, 
carefully  attending  to  the  progress  of  its  fermentation,  and  when  you 
find  the  heat  on  the  decline,  and  temperate,  that  is  the  time  to  put 
in  the  spawn ;  for  a  violent  heat,  as  well  as  too  much  wet,  would  in- 
evitably destroy  it. 

The  bed  being  in  a  proper  temperature,  the  covering  of  straw 
should  be  taken  off  and  the  sides  made  smooth  and  even;  then  lay 
all  over  the  bed  about  an  inch  thick  of  light  rich  earth,  not  wet.  In 
this  the  spawn  is  to  be  planted  in  rows  six  inches  asunder  along  the 
sides  and  ends,  making  the  first  or  lowest  row  six  inches  from  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  proceeding  upwards  row  by  row  to  the 
top,  observing  to  place  the  pieces  of  spawn  about  six  inches  asunder, 
and  so  far  in  as  to  touch  the  surface  of  the  dung.  This  done,  lay 


540  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

on  the  top  of  the  ridge  part  of  the  loose  or  scattered  spawn,  and 
shake  some  all  over  the  bed;  then  cover  the  whole  about  an  inch  and 
a  half  deep  with  light  rich  earth,  smooth  the  surface  neatly,  and  lay 
on  a  light  covering  of  straw  as  before,  just  so  thick  as  to  keep  out 
wet  and  prevent  the  bed  from  drying. 

As  you  find  the  bed  decrease  in  heat  and  the  weather  grow  cold, 
increase  the  covering  to  a  foot,  eighteen  inches,  two  feet,  or,  in  severe 
frost,  to  such  a  thickness  as  may  be  effectually  sufficient  to  prevent 
its  reaching  the  bed. 

Two  or  three  beds  may  be  made  parallel  to  each  other  in  this  way, 
with  wide  alleys  between  them,  and  if  the  whole  were  to  be  covered 
with  a  shed,  especially  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  it  would  be 
found  of  considerable  advantage  in  effectually  preserving  them  from 
too  much  wet,  which  is  as  essentially  necessary  as  their  preservation 
from  frost. 

If  your  bed  is  in  a  due  temperature,  the  mushrooms  will  begin  to 
appear  in  about  four  or  five  weeks  after  its  being  made,  and  with 
proper  care  will  continue  in  bearing  several  months :  when  you  find 
it  ceasing  to  produce,  in  consequence  of  cold,  lay  a  covering  of  hot 
stable  dung  seven  or  eight  inches,  or  in  hard  frosts,  near  a  foot  thick 
all  over  the  bed,  observing  to  leave  under  this,  between  it  and  the 
bed,  about  three  inches  thick  of>  dry  straw,  covering  the  hot  dung 
over  with  the  remainder  of  the  straw  or  litter ;  this  will  revive  the 
heat,  give  new  action  to  the  spawn,  and  should  be  repeated  as  often 
during  winter  as  it  may  be  found  necessary,  always  observing  to  pre- 
serve the  bed  from  wet,  cold,  and  frost. 

Sometimes  it  happens  that  the  beds  do  not  produce  any  mush- 
rooms till  they  have  lain  five  or  six  months,  so  that  they  should  not 
be  destroyed  though  they  do  not  at  first  answer  the  expectation ;  for 
such  frequently  produce  great  quantities  afterwards,  and  continue 
bearing  a  long  time. 

A  good  bed  may  continue  productive  for  three,  four,  five,  or  even 
twelve  months;  but  by  that  time  it  is  generally  worn  out;  the  dung 
then  makes  excellent  manure,  and  the  interior  part  sometimes  fur- 
nishes very  good  spawn. 

The  great  skill  of  managing  these  beds  is  that  of  keeping  them  in 
a  proper  degree  of  warmth  and  moisture,  never  suffering  them  to  re- 
ceive much  wet:  during  the  summer  season  they  may  be  uncovered 
occasionally  to  receive  gentle  showers  of  rain,  when  thought  neces- 
sary, and  in  very  dry  seasons  the  beds  should  be  now  and  then 
opened,  gently  watered,  and  covered  up  soon  after ;  bulk  the  summer 
covering  need  be  no  thicker  than  what  is  necessary  to  preserve  the 
bed  from  the  drying  influence  of  the  weather. 

This  method  of  propagating  mushrooms  by  the  spawn,  or  the 
white  fibrous  radicles,  is  the  most  common ;  but  they  may  also  be 
increased  by  seed.  When  the  latter  method  is  used,  the  gills  are 
cut  out  and  put  into  the  beds :  or  else  they  are  infused  in  water  and 
the  beds  sprinkled  with  the  infusion. 

When  the  bed  is  in  full  bearing,  it  should  be  examined  two  or 
three  times  a  week,  to  gather  the  produce,  turning  off  the  straw 
carefully,  and  collecting  the  mushrooms  white,  and  of  a  moderate 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  541 

size :  taking  care  to  detach  them  from  the  bottom  by  a  gentle  twist, 
pulling  the  stems  out  clean,  for  if  broke  or  cut  off,  the  remaining 
parts  would  become  putrid  and  full  of  maggots,  and  consequently  in- 
fectious to  the  successional  plants. 

Where  mushrooms  are  greatly  admired,  and  expense  not  considered 
an  object,  they  may  be  had  with  more  certainty,  in  greater  abund- 
ance, and  in  a  regular  succession,  by  making  the  beds  as  before  di- 
rected, under  a  range  of  wood  framing,  made  in  the  manner  of  a  hot- 
house, or  the  top  sloped  both  ways  like  the  roof  of  a  house  ;  in  such 
a  place,  they  could  be  effectually  defended  from  excessive  wet,  cold, 
frost,  and  snow,  and  would  consequently  be  very  productive.  Like- 
wise, if  in  this  place  there  are  shelves  fixed  three  feet  apart,  each 
having  a  front  board,  a  bed  of  dung  may  be  made  in  each,  raised  at 
top  in  a  rounding  manner,  on  which  the  spawn  is  placed,  earthed  over 
near  two  inches  thick,  and  then  covered  well  with  straw.  Or  you 
may,  by  mixing  a  quantity  of  strong  horse  dung,  moist  stable  litter, 
and  rich  loamy  earth  together,  have  the  spawn  generated;  by  filling 
a  pit  with  this  mixture,  the  dung  predominating  so  as  to  produce  a 
slow  and  lasting  fermentation,  and  covering  the  whole  over  with 
about  an  inch  deep  of  light  earth  and  a  good  coat  of  straw,  the  spawn 
will  be  produced;  and  from  this,  abundant  crops  of  mushrooms,  in 
regular  succession  for  several  months. 

You  may  likewise  make  beds  in  the  common  hot-bed  way,  place 
thereon  frames  and  glasses,  and  when  the  violent  heat  is  abated, 
spawn  the  top  all  over,  cover  it  with  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches 
of  earth,  then  thickly  with  straw,  and  lay  on  the  glasses  to  protect 
the  beds  from  rain. 

Mushroom  beds  may  be  made  in  any  month,  when  the  weather  is 
mild  and  dry,  but  those  made  in  the  beginning  of  this,  are  generally 
most  productive,  and  besides,  they  retain  more  heat  on  the  approach 
of  winter  than  if  made  in  September.  However  when  a  second  bed 
is  to  be  made  it  would  be  well  to  make  one  in  each  month.  The 
most  suitable  temperature  is  between  55°  and  60°,  and  the  nearer 
the  mushroom  house  is  kept  to  this,  the  better  they  will  succeed. 

ENDIVE. 

Continue  every  week  to  tie  up  some  full  grown  endive  for  blanch- 
ing, as  directed  on  page  486,  tying  no  more  at  a  time  than  in  pro- 
portion to  the  demand  or  consumption ;  for  if  it  is  not  used  soon 
after  being  sufficiently  blanched,  it  becomes  tender,  and  is  subject 
to  rot,  especially  if  the  season  proves  wet.  Some  people  blanch 
endive  by  laying  boards  or  tiles  flat  on  the  plants ;  they  will  whiten 
tolerably  well  by  this  method,  but  their  growth  during  the  period  of 
whitening  is  greatly  checked  thereby,  which  is  certainly  of  some  im- 
portance. 

Others  draw  earth  around  the  endive  plants  after  their  being  tied 
up  in  the  usual  manner;  this  may  do  very  well  in  dry  weather,  but 
if  rain  ensues,  many  of  the  leaves  will  rot,  and  the  whole  be  greatly 
injured. 

If  you  have  stout  endive  plants,  and  neglected  in  September  to 


542  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

set  out  a  sufficient  number,  that  work  may  be  done  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  deferred  longer;  these  late 
plants  will  keep  better,  if  the  season  should  prove  favorable  that 
they  may  attain  a  tolerable  size,  than  those  of  a  more  forward 
growth. 

Or,  to  preserve  late  endive  for  winter  use,  as  well  from  the  effects 
of  too  much  wet  as  frost,  you  may  in  the  first  week  of  this  month 
prepare  a  sloping  bank  of  light  earth  in  a  warm  situation,  the  sloping 
side  fronting  the  south,  and  the  bed  raised  two  feet  higher  behind 
than  in  front ;  on  this  plant,  tolerably  close,  some  stout,  middle  sized 
plants,  and  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather  place  a  frame  and 
glasses  over  the  bed,  and  in  hard  frost  fill  the  inside  immediately 
over  the  plants  with  dry  straw;  thus  they  will  be  protected  from  wet 
and  frost,  and  will  whiten  effectually  under  the  covering  of  straw, 
which  should  be  turned  occasionally  to  prevent  that  part  next  the 
plants  and  earth  from  becoming  mouldy. 

For  further  particulars  repecting  the  preservation  of  endive,  see 
next  month. 


RAISING  YOUNG  MINT  AND  TARRAGON  FOR  USE  IN  WINTER. 

Where  young  mint  and  tarragon  are  in  request  at  all  seasons,  you 
may,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  make  a  slight  hot-bed,  and  set 
the  plants  therein,  as  directed  on  page  27;  this  done,  put  on  the  glasses, 
and  observe  to  raise  them  behind  every  day  to  admit  air,  and  prevent 
the  young  rising  shoots  from  being  scorched  by  the  effects  of  a  too 
powerful  sun  beaming  on  the  lights  whilst  close  shut.  The  young 
productions  will  be  fit  for  use  in  about  three  weeks  or  a  month,  and 
afford  a  supply  for  a  considerable  time. 

WINTER  DRESSING  OF  ARPARAGUS  BEDS. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  if  the  stalks  of  your  asparagus  turn 
yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their  having  finished  their  growth  for  the 
season,  cut  them  down  close  to  the  earth  and  carry  them  off  the 
ground;  clear  the  beds  carefully  from  weeds,  eradicating  them 
effectually  and  drawing  them  into  the  alleys. 

Asparagus  beds  in  general  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  an  annual 
dressing  of  good  manure,  and  nothing  is  better  or  more  suitable  for 
them  than  the  dung  of  old  hot-beds;  but  if  that  is  not  to  be  had, 
well  rotted  stable  manure  will  answer;  let  it  be  laid  equally  over  the 
beds,  one,  two,  or  three  inches  deep,  according  to  necessity,  after 
which  stretch  a  line/ and  with  a  spade  mark  out  the  alleys  from 
about  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  wide,  agreeably  to  their  original 
dimensions.* 

Then  dig  the  alleys  one  spade  deep,  and  spread  a  considerable  part  of 
the  earth  evenly  over  the  beds;  and  as  you  advance  let  the  weeds  which 

*  Asparagus,  being  a  marine  plant,  is  greatly  benefited  by  an  annual 
dressing  of  salt,  and  there  is  no  kitchen  vegetable  that  is  more  improved 
than  this  by  the  addition  of  guano,  applied  previous  to  commencing  growth. 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  543 

were  raked  off  into  the  alleys  be  dug  into  the  bottom  of  the  trenches 
and  covered  a  proper  depth  with  earth ;  observe  to  make  the  edges 
of  the  beds  straight,  full,  and  neat,  and  to  finish  your  work  in  a  be- 
coming manner,  giving  a  moderate  rounding  to  the  beds,  especially 
if  the  ground  be  inclined  to  wet. 

In  the  southern  States  there  may  be  planted  in  each  alley  a  row  of 
early  cabbage  plants ;  but  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States  it  would 
be  well  to  fill  them  up  with  straw  or  old  litter,  well  trampled  down, 
which  would  in  some  measure  prevent  the  frost  from  entering  that 
way  to  the  asparagus  roots. 

The  seedling  asparagus  which  was  sown  last  spring  should  also  now 
have  a  slight  dressing,  that  is,  to  clear  the  bed  from  weeds,  and  then 
to  spread  an  inch  or  two  in  depth  of  dry,  rotten  dung  over  it  to  de- 
fend the  crowns  of  the  plants  from  frost. 

The  asparagus  which  is  intended  for  forcing,  will  likewise  require 
to  have  the  stalks  cut  down  and  the  weeds  drawn  off  into  the  alleys, 
which  must  be  dug  to  bury  them,  and  as  you  proceed  spread  a  little 
of  the  earth  over  the  beds,  after  which  they  are  to  be  treated  as 
noticed  next  month. 

I  would  not  advise  to  attempt  the  forcing  of  asparagus  sooner  than 
November,  as  before  that  period  the  roots  will  not  be  completely 
matured ;  however,  you  may,  about  the  middle  or  towards  the  latter 
end  of  this  month,  begin  to  prepare  hot-beds  for  the  reception  of  the 
roots  early  in  November.  (See  the  method  on  page  128.) 

CELERY  AND  CARDOONS. 

In  dry  weather  continue  to  earth  up  celery  and  cardoons,  to  blanch 
them,  as  directed  on  page  500.  (For  the  method  of  preserving  them 
in  winter,  see  next  month.) 

AROMATIC  AND  MEDICINAL  HERBS,  ETC. 

Cut  down  all  the  decayed  flower  stems  and  shoots  of  the  various 
kinds  of  aromatic,  pot,  and  medicinal  herbs  close  to  the  heads  of  the 
plants,  or  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  according  to  the  nature  or 
growth  of  the  different  sorts ;  at  the  same  time  clear  the  beds  very 
well  from  weeds  and  litter,  and  carry  the  whole  off  the  ground. 

Lavender,  thyme,  hyssop,  winter  savory,  southernwood,  sage,  rue, 
and  the  like  undershrubby  kinds  will  require  only  their  tops  or 
heads  to  be  neatly  dressed;  but  pot  marjoram,  baum,  burnet,  tarra- 
gon, tansy,  pennyroyal,  sorrel,  chamomile,  fennel,  marsh  mallows, 
horehound,  mint  of  every  kind,  angelica,  lovage,  and  every  kind  of 
herbaceous  perennial  herbs  should  be  cut  down  pretty  close  to  the 
ground. 

After  this  it  will  be  proper  in  beds  where  the  plants  stand  distant 
from  one  another,  to  lightly  dig  and  loosen  the  ground  between  them  ; 
or,  in  old  beds  it  would  be  a  great  advantage  to  spread  some  very 
rotten  dung  equally  over  the  surface,  and  with  a  small  spade  or 
trowel  to  dig  it  in  lightly  between  the  plants ;  if  they  are  in  beds 


544  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

with  alleys  between  them,  dig  the  alleys  and  spread  a  little  of  the 
loose  earth  over  the  beds,  leaving  the  edges  full  and  straight. 

But  the  beds  of  close  growing  running  plants,  such  as  mint3  penny- 
royal, and  the  like  creeping  herbs  will  not  well  admit  of  digging ; 
therefore,  after  the  stalks  are  cut  down  and  the  beds  cleared  from 
weeds,  dig  the  alleys  and  strew  some  of  the  loose  earth  evenly  over 
the  beds ;  and  if  the  ground  be  rather  poor,  a  light  top  dressing  of 
very  rotten  dung  will  be  of  considerable  service. 

This  dressing  will  give  proper  culture  and  protection  to  the  roots 
of  the  plants,  a  neat  appearance  to  the  whole,  and  in  spring  the 
shoots  will  rise  with  renewed  vigor. 

Early  in  the  month  you  may  plant,  where  wanted,  well  rooted 
young  plants  of  thyme,  hyssop,  winter  savory,  lavender,  or  the  like, 
into  four  feet  wide  beds,  or  in  any  warm  borders,  in  rows  a  foot 
asunder.  You  may  also  divide  and  plant  roots  of  mint,  chamomile, 
horehound,  and  likewise  any  of  the  preceding  or  other  herbaceous 
perennial  herbs  that  you  are  desirous  of  propagating.  (For  further 
particulars,  see  former  pages.) 

SMALL  SALADING. 

Where  a  constant  succession  of  small  salad  herbs  is  required,  con- 
tinue to  sow  the  seeds  accordingly  every  ten  or  fourteen  days,  par- 
ticularly cresses,  radish,  rape,  mustard  and  lettuce,  to  cut  while  young. 
But  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  these  should  be  sown  at  this 
season,  particularly  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  in  very  warm 
borders  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  glasses,  for  the  greater 
certainty  of  having  a  constant  supply.  The  glasses  should  be  kept 
totally  off  every  warm  day,  and  only  put  on  at  night  or  when  the 
weather  is  very  cold  or  excessively  wet. 

In  the  middle  States,  when  the  season  is  favorable,  small  salading 
will  grow  free  enough  anytime  this  month  in  warm  borders,  but  it 
will  be  proper  to  have  frames  and  glasses  to  place  over  them  if  neces- 
sity should  require  it. 

DILL,  ALEXANDERS,  SKIRRETS,  RHUBARB,  AND  SEA-KALE. 

The  seeds  of  dill,  alexanders,  skirrets,  rhubarb,  and  sea-kale  should 
now  be  sown,  for  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring,  many  of  them 
would  not  vegetate  for  a  year  after ;  but  when  sown  in  this  or  the 
next  month,  if  the  seeds  are  fresh  and  perfect,  good  crops  may  be 
expected  to  rise  therefrom  in  March  or  April.  (For  the  methods  of 
sowing  and  treating  them,  see  the  Kitchen  Garden  for  March.) 

SHALLOTS,  CHIVES,  GARLIC,  AND   ROCAMBOLE. 

This  is  a  very  proper  season  to  plant  roots  of  shallots,  chives,  gar- 
lic, and  rocambole ;  for  the  method  of  planting  them,  see  page  206. 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  545 


PLANTING   LARGE   ONIONS   TOR  PRODUCING    SEED. 

For  this  purpose  make  choice  of  a  piece  of  good,  rich,  light  ground, 
which  dig  a  full  spade  deep,  breaking  it  fine  as  you  proceed ;  when 
ready,  select  a  number  proportionate  to  the  quantity  of  seed  you  in- 
tend to  save,  of  the  firmest,  largest,  and  best  shaped  onions,  and  of 
the  most  desirable  kinds,  observing  that  each  variety  is  to  be  planted 
separately  and  remote  from  any  other. 

The  middle  of  October,  or  any  time  between  that  and  the  end  of 
the  month  is  the  most  eligible  time  for  planting,  as  the  bulbs  will 
have  time  to  establish  roots  or  fibres  which  will  greatly  support  them 
during  winter,  and  render  them  less  liable  to  injury  from  frost  than 
if  planted  at  a  later  period. 

Having  your  ground  dug  and  the  roots  in  readiness,  lay  it  out  into 
four  feet  wide  beds  with  a  fourteen  inch  alley  between  each ;  then 
strain  a  line  about  six  inches  within  the  side  of  a  bed,  and  with  a 
spade  throw  out  an  opening  or  drill  about  five  inches  deep  the  length 
of  the  bed,  in  which  lay  the  onions,  seated  handsomely  on  their  bot- 
toms, about  nine  inches  distant  one  from  the  other ;  then  with  a  rake 
draw  the  earth  into  the  opening  so  as  to  cover  the  bulbs  from  three 
to  four  inches  above  their  crowns ;  remove  the  line  a  foot  farther 
back,  plant  another  row  as  before,  and  so  continue  till  the  first  bed 
is  planted  containing  four  rows ;  after  which  proceed  with  the  others 
in  the  same  way  to  the  end ;  then  with  a  spade  or  shovel  cast  over 
the  beds  a  slight  dressing  from  the  alleys,  and  finish  by  raking  them 
neatly,  drawing  off  the  stones  and  any  large  lumps  of  earth  from  the 
surface. 

In  March  the  leaves  will  appear  above  ground,  after  which  they 
are  to  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds ;  many  of  the  roots  will  pro- 
duce three  or  four  stalks  each,  which  towards  the  latter  part  of  May 
will  have  grown  to  their  full  height,  when  you  must  be  provided  with 
a  sufficient  number  of  stakes,  about  four  feet  long,  to  drive  into  the 
ground  in  the  rows  of  onions,  at  the  distance  of  from  six  to  eight 
feet  stake  from  stake  in  each  and  every  row,  to  which  are  to  be  fas- 
tened double  lines  of  packthread,  rope-yarn,  or  small  cord,  to  run 
on  each  side  of  the  stems  of  the  onions  a  little  below  their  heads,  to 
support  and  prevent  them  from  breaking  down  by  wind  and  rain,  and 
if  those  are  tied  together  at  intervals  between  stake  and  stake,  they 
will  the  more  effectually  support  the  plants.  This  is  the  more  neces- 
sary, as  when  the  seeds  are  formed,  the  heads  become  very  heavy, 
and  often  break  down  even  by  their  own  weight,  where  they  are  not 
well  secured,  in  which  case  there  will  be  a  considerable  loss  both  in 
the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  seed. 

When  the  seed  is  ripe,  which  is  very  perceivable  by  the  capsules 
opening,  and  the  seed  turning  black,  the  heads  are  to  be  cut  off  and 
spread  thinly  upon  coarse  cloths,  in  the  sun,  till  quite  dry,  observing 
to  keep  them  under  shelter  at  night  and  in  wet  weather ;  then  beat 
or  rub  out  the  seed,  fan  it  clean,  expose  it  to  the  sun  for  a  day  or  two 
after,  and  put  it  up  in  bags  till  wanted  for  sowing. 

Some  people  plant  the  onions  which  they  intend  to  produce  seed 
35 


546  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

in  spring,  but  when  planted  at  that  season  they  are  never  so  produc- 
tive of  seed  as  those  planted  in  October,  and  are  much  more  subject 
to  blight ;  however  when  it  is  so  determined,  it  should  be  done  as 
soon  after  the  middle  of  February  as  it  is  possible  to  get  the  ground 
in  a  fit  condition  to  receive  them,  and  should  not  be  covered  more 
than  from  two  to  three  inches  over  their  crowns ;  observing  to  select 
for  that  purpose  such  roots  as  have  good  properties  and  no  growths 
from  their  tops. 

A  slight  covering  of  straw  or  light  litter  laid  over  the  October 
planted  beds,  on  the  approach  of  hard  frost,  and  raked  clean  off  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  appear  in  spring,  would  be  of  use,  though 
it  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  the  roots. 

HORSERADISH   AND    SCURVY-GRASS. 

You  may  now  plant  roots  of  the  Coclilearia  armoracia,  or  horse- 
radish, in  dry,  rich  ground,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on  page 
217,  but  in  moist  soil;  March  will  be  a  preferable  time. 

This  is  a  proper  season  to  sow  some  seed  of  the  Coclilearia  officin- 
alis  or  common  officinal  scurvy-grass;  from  this  sowing  the  plants  will 
rise  freely  in  spring,  and  generally  succeed  better  than  if  sown  at 
that  season.  I  do  not  mean  what  is  commonly  used  for  an  early 
spring  salad,  and  generally  called  scurvy-grass,  for  the  sowing  of 
which  I  have  given  directions  on  page  488,  under  the  name  of  Win- 
ter Cresses. 

ORDINARY   WORK. 

Give  a  general  hoeing  and  weeding  to  all  your  crops,  and  carry  the 
weeds  immediately  out  of  the  garden,  lest  they  shed  their  seeds  and 
lay  the  foundation  of  much  trouble;  likewise  clean  all  vacant  quar- 
ters from  weeds,  and  from  the  decayed  stalks  of  peas,  beans,  cab- 
bages, &c. 

Such  spaces  of  ground  as  are  now  vacant  should  be  dunged  and 
dug,  or  trenched,  that  it  may  have  the  true  advantage  of  fallow  in 
the  winter  season. 

If  the  ground  is  of  a  stiff  or  heavy  nature,  throw  it  up  into  high 
sloping  ridges,  for  the  reasons  assigned  on  page  17. 


TAKING  UP  THE  ROOTS  OF  CARROTS,  BEETS,  ETC. 

About  the  latter  end  of  the  month  you  may  begin  to  take  up  the 
roots  of  full  grown  carrots,  beets,  parsneps,  turnips,  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, &Q.J  which  are  to  be  preserved  as  directed  in  November. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

In  Georgia,  South  Carolina,  and  the  parts  of  North  Carolina  south 
of  the  35th  degree  of  latitude,  you  may  now  sow  the  seeds  of  carrot, 
parsnep,  beet,  onion,  parsley,  cresses,  spinage,  and  several  other  kinds 
of  hardy  garden  vegetables ;  plant  out  from  the  seed-beds  cabbage 


OCT.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  547 

and  cauliflower  plants;    sow  peas,  and  plant  early  Mazagan   and 
Windsor  beans,  with  every  other  variety  of  the  Vicia  Faba. 

In  North  Carolina,  generally,  Tennessee,  and  the  southern  parts 
of  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  you  may  sow  peas,  plant  the  above 
species  of  bean,  sow  carrot,  parsnep,  onion,  parsley,  and  other  hardy 
seeds ;  plant  out  cabbages,  and  also  cauliflower  plants ;  but  the 
cauliflowers,  if  the  winter  is  any  way  severe,  will  require  the  protec- 
tion of  hand  glasses,  oiled-paper  caps,  frames,  or  the  like,  as  directed 
on  page  537. 


THE  FRUIT   GARDEN. 


GATHERING  WINTER  PEARS  AND  APPLES. 

G-ather  your  winter  pears  and  apples  as  they  ripen ;  but  for  par- 
ticulars see  the  article  Orchard  for  this  month. 


PRUNING. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  you  may  begin  to  prune 
such  trees  as  have  completely  shed  their  leaves,  but  by  no  means  lay 
your  knife  to  a  tree,  for  a  general  pruning,  till  this  is  the  case. 

In  the  middle  States  I  would  not  recommend  the  pruning  of  peach, 
nectarine,  almond,  and  apricot-trees  before  the  latter  end  of  Febru- 
ary, nor  in  the  eastern  States  before  the  first  week  in  March ;  but 
they  should  not  be  much  longer  neglected.  In  the  southern  States 
they  may  be  pruned  at  any  time  between  the  periods  in  which  they 
shed  their  leaves  and  the  latter  end  of  January. 

Apples,  pears,  plums  and  cherries,  being  perfectly  hardy,  may  be 
pruned,  in  any  part  of  the  United  States,  immediately  after  they 
drop  their  leaves,  or  in  November,  December,  or  January,  &c.  But 
were  it  not  on  account  of  performing  work  when  it  can  most  con- 
veniently be  done,  I  would  prefer  early  spring  pruning  of  all  kinds  of 
trees  to  any  other,  on  account  of  the  recent  wounds  healing  and  cover- 
ing over  with  bark  more  immediately  when  vegetation  soon  follows, 
than  those  anteriorly  inflicted. 

For  the  method  of  pruning  the  various  kinds  of  wall  and  espalier 
fruit-trees,  &c.,  see  page  32,  &c. 

PLANTING  FRUIT-TREES. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  safely  transplant 
most  sorts  of  fruit-trees,  but  particularly  such  kinds  as  shall  have 
by  that  time  shed  their  leaves.  This  may  be  done  to  advantage 
during  the  entire  of  next  month  if  the  season  continues  open,  pro- 
vided the  ground  in  which  you  plant  be  dry  and  does  not  lodge  water 
in  the  winter  months ;  and  likewise  that  sufficient  pains  be  taken  to 


548  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN,  [OCT. 

make  each  tree  fast  in  its  place  by  nailing  or  binding  it  up  in  such 
a  manner  as  not  to  be  rocked  about  by  the  winds ;  otherwise  spring 
planting,  if  done  early  in  March,  will  be  more  successful,  particularly 
for  the  peach,  nectarine,  and  almond. 

JNote. — In  the  more  southern  States  of  the  Union  the  planting  of 
the  more  hardy  kinds  of  fruit  and  other  trees  should  be  completed 
before  the  end  of  January,  on  account  of  the  early  vegetation  in  those 
regions. 

If  the  borders  wherein  trees  are  to  be  planted,  either  for  the  wall 
or  espalier  be  new,  they  should  be  trenched  at  least  two  feet  deep  if 
the  good  soil  admits  thereof;  but  if  not,  they  should  be  made  of  that 
depth  by  adding  thereto  a  sufficiency  of  good  mellow  fertile  soil,  such 
as  fresh  surface  loam,  &c. ;  this  should  be  worked  to  the  depth  of 
two  feet,  at  least,  with  the  soil  of  the  border,  and  it  would  be  of 
great  advantage  to  add  some  good  rotten  dung  previous  to  the  trench- 
ing. But  if  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fresh  soil  cannot  be  conveniently 
obtained  for  the  whole,  you  may  sink  one,  two,  or  three  wheelbarrows 
full,  together  with  some  rotten  dung,  in  the  place  where  each  tree  is 
to  be  planted. 

However,  where  the  ground  is  already  of  a  good  quality,  as  that  of 
a  common  kitchen  garden,  &c.,  the  above  assistance  will  not  be  neces- 
sary, as  trees  will  prosper  sufficiently  well  in  any  soil  that  is  product- 
ive of  good  garden  vegetables. 

As  to  aspect,  your  latest  ripening  fruits,  particularly  late  peaches, 
should  have  a  warm  exposure,  and  also  some  of  the  earliest  ripening 
of  the  various  kinds  of  fruit,  on  account  of  having  them  in  perfec- 
tion at  an  early  period.  For  the  method  of  planting,  and  proper 
distances,  &c.,  see  page  229. 

PLANTING  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  early  in  November,  is  the 
best  time  in  the  year  to  plant  trees  of  this  delicious  and  very  valuable 
fruit. 

You  may  plant  them  around  the  borders  of  the  best  quarters  of 
your  kitchen  garden  about  two  feet  and  a  half  or  three  feet  from  the 
walks,  and  from  six  to  eight  feet  distant  from  one  another.  Or  they 
may  be  planted  in  continued  plantations,  the  rows  from  eight  to  ten 
feet  asunder,  and  the  plants  six  or  seven  feet  apart  in  the  rows.  In 
the  latter  case  the  ground  between  the  rows  may  be  occupied  with 
winter  spinage,  corn  salad,  lettuces,  and  winter  cresses;  and  in  spring 
and  summer  with  rows  of  salading  of  various  kinds,  dwarf  peas  and 
beans,  or  any  other  low  growing  crops ;  but  it  must  be  particularly 
observed,  always  to  keep  the  ground  under  and  immediately  con- 
tiguous to  each  bush,  free  from  weeds  or  crops  of  any  kind ;  for  if 
damps  and  moisture  are  confined  about  the  bushes  in  this  way,  the 
fruit  will  mildew  and  become  useless.  If  mildew  shows  itself,  dust 
some  sulphur  amongst  the  bushes. 

It  will  be  in  vain  to  expect  fine  fruit  unless  you  have  good  kinds, 
and  give  them  the  best  ground  possible,  a  plentiful  supply  of  manure 
annually,  frequent  culture  and  regular  pruning. 


OCT.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  549 

The  best  time  to  plant  them  out  finally  is,  when  they  have  had 
one  or  two  years'  growth  from  cuttings ;  or  indeed  the  cuttings  may, 
with  great  propriety,  be  planted  where  they  are  to  remain  for  fruit- 
ing. Old  gooseberry  bushes  seldom  bear  large  fruit  after  being  trans- 
planted, unless  they  are  carefully  removed  with  large  balls  of  earth 
around  their  roots. 

Previous  to  planting,  each  young  tree  should  be  pruned  up  to  one 
clean  stem  of  eight  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  before  you  form  the  head ; 
for  when  they  are  suffered  to  branch  away  immediately  from  the  bot- 
tom, they,  by  spreading  out  so  near  the  ground,  will  impede  the 
growth  of  any  crops  that  grow  near  them,  and  in  the  occasional  and 
very  necessary  business  of  manuring,  digging,  hoeing,  weeding,  &c., 
will  be  very  troublesome  to  work  between. 

For  further  observations  on  the  planting  of  gooseberries,  see  pages 
146  and  306. 

PRUNING  AND  PROPAGATING  GOOSEBERRIES. 

The  latter  part  of  this  month,  and  the  entire  of  the  next,  will  be 
a  very  suitable  season  for  the  pruning  of  gooseberries.  It  is  a  prac- 
tice too  common  in  pruning  these  trees  to  let  them  branch  out  with 
long  naked  stems,  suffering  them  to  remain  in  that  state  for  many 
years.  When  that  is  already  the  case  they  should  be  cut  down,  or 
considerably  shortened,  to  promote  a  free  growth  of  healthy  young 
shoots,  which  will  bear  fruit  abundantly  the  second  year.  But  for 
general  instructions  on  this  head,  see  page  42. 

You  may  now  plant  cuttings  of  the  various  kinds  of  gooseberries 
which  you  wish  to  propagate;  for  the  necessary  instructions,  see 
page  306. 

Note. — New  varieties  of  gooseberries  may  be  obtained  by  sowing 
seeds  of  the  best  kinds  you  are  able  to  procure,  either  in  this  or  any 
of  the  autumn  months,  in  beds  in  the  open  ground,  or  in  boxes  of 
good  earth.  From  these  sowings  the  plants  will  rise  freely  in  spring, 
and  by  the  autumn  or  spring  following  may  be  planted  in  nursery 
rows  to  remain  another  season,  after  which  they  are  to  be  finally 
planted  out  for  fruiting ;  or  they  may  remain  where  planted  from  the 
seed-bed  till  they  show  specimens  of  fruit ;  then  those  that  are  good 
are  to  be  taken  due  care  of;  the  others,  which,  by  the  by,  will  be 
the  far  greater  number,  may  be  thrown  away. 

If  the  seed  is  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring  scarcely  any  of  it 
will  vegetate  till  that  time  twelve  months ;  therefore  it  is  necessary 
either  to  sow  it  in  autumn,  or  to  preserve  it  in  damp  earth  or  sand 
till  February  or  March.  If  sown  in  autumn  cover  it  near  half  an 
inch  deep  with  loose,  rich  earth ;  but  if  in  spring  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  will  be  sufficient. 

PLANTING  RASPBERRIES. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Rubus  idteus,  or  European  rasp- 
berry, but  the  most  preferable  are  the  red  Antwerp,  the  white  Ant- 


550  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

werp,  Fastolf,  Victoria,  Knevitt's  giant,  and  Dr.  Brinckle's  seed- 
ling raspberries. 

The  smooth  cane  double  bearing  raspberry  is  cultivated  in  some 
places,  as  it  produces  one  crop  of  fruit  in  June,  and  another  in 
October;  but  the  fruit  are  few  and  small,  which  has  occasioned  its 
being  neglected. 

Of  the  Rubus  occidentals,  or  American  raspberry,  we  have  two 
varieties,  the  black  fruited,  and  the  red  fruited;  the  latter  is  prefer- 
able in  taste  and  flavor  to  the  black  variety.  , 

Raspberries  do  not  thrive  well  under  the  shade  of  trees,  nor  in 
such  situations  are  their  fruit  well  flavored ;  therefore  they  should  be 
planted  in  a  detached  airy  piece  of  ground,  naturally  good,  or  artifi- 
cially made  so.  As  to  the  choice  of  plants  and  method  of  planting 
them,  I  refer  you  to  page  231. 

Such  as  you  plant  between  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  this  month, 
will  make  new  roots  before  winter,  and  produce  some  good  fruit  next 
season ;  but  in  the  year  following  they  will  bear  plentifully. 

DRESSING  AND  PRUNING  RASPBERRIES. 

When  your  new  plantations  are  finished,  and  all  the  stout,  strag- 
gling suckers  taken  away  for  that  purpose,  dig  the  ground  of  the  old 
standing  plantations  carefully,  clearing  out  by  the  roots  the  remain- 
ing useless  and  scattered  suckers,  leaving  an  ample  supply  of  the 
best  shoots  for  pruning. 

In  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  I  would  not  recommend  the 
pruning  of  raspberries  before  spring ;  for  by  deferring  that  work  to 
the  latter  end  of  February  or  beginning  of  March,  there  will  be  a 
greater  chance  of  the  shoots  not  being  injured  by  frost;  and  more- 
over, you  can  then  make  choice  of  such  as  received  the  least  injury. 
But  in  the  southern  States  they  may  be  pruned  now  with  safety  ;  for 
the  method  see  page  146. 

It  is  necessary  to  observe  that  the  shoots  which  had  borne  fruit 
last  summer,  must  be  cut  down  to  the  ground  either  now  or  in  the 
spring,  as  they  will  never  bear  again,  and  that  it  is  from  the  shoots 
of  the  present  season,  immediately  rising  from  the  roots,  that  you 
are  to  expect  fruit  in  the  ensuing  year. 

The  Antwerp  raspberries  being  somewhat  more  tender  and  subject 
to  be  injured  by  frost  than  the  common  kinds,  it  will  be  of  consider- 
able advantage  to  protect  them  therefrom  in  the  manner  directed  next 
month. 


PROPAGATING  FRUIT-TREES  BY  LAYERS  AND  SUCKERS. 

The  young  shoots  of  mulberries,  figs,  filberts,  codlins,  vines,  &c., 
may  now  be  laid  in  the  earth,  as  directed  on  page  300,  and  they  will 
be  all  well  rooted  by  this  time  twelve  months. 

Suckers  may  be  taken  off  and  planted  from  codlins,  berberries, 
filberts,  &c.,  digging  them  up  with  good  roots  to  each,  and  planting 
the  largest  at  once  where  they  are  to  remain,  and  the  rest  into  nur- 
sery-rows. 


OCT.]  THZ  ORCHARD.  551 


DRESSING   THE    STRAWBERRY   BEDS,  AND   MAKING   NEW  PLANTA- 
TIONS. 

The  old  beds  of  strawberries  should  some  time  in  this  month  have 
their  winter  dressing,  in  doing  of  which,  they  should  be  cleaned  from 
weeds,  and  the  vines  or  runners  taken  off  close  to  the  plants ;  then 
if  there  be  room  between  the  plants  by  having  been  kept  to  distinct 
heads  or  single  bunches,  which  is  certainly  the  most  preferable 
method,  loosen  the  earth  to  a  moderate  depth  with  a  small  spade  or 
hoe,  observing  not  to  disturb  the  roots.  And  if  the  plants  are  in 
beds  with  alleys  between,  line  out  the  alleys  and  let  them  be  dug  a 
moderate  depth,  breaking  the  earth  very  fine  and  spreading  a  suffici- 
ency of  it  over  the  beds  between  and  around  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
being  careful  not  to  bury  their  tops.  A  slight  top  dressihg  of  well 
rotted  dung  may  sometimes  be  necessary.  This  dressing  will  prove 
very  beneficial,  and  promote  strength  and  a  plentiful  crop  the  ensuing 
season. 

When  it  was  omitted  last  month,  new  plantations  of  strawberries 
may  now  be  made,  but  the  earlier  in  the  month  the  better,  that  the 
plants  may  have  time  to  establish  new  roots  before  winter.  (For  full 
instructions  on  that  head  see  page  506.) 

PRESERVING   STONES  AND   KERNELS   OF   FRUITS. 

Preserve  in  damp  earth  or  sand,  the  stones  of  the  various  kinds  of 
fruit  you  intend  to  sow  for  stocks,  &c.,  and  let  "apple,  pear,  and 
quince  kernels  be  preserved  in  dry  sand  till  you  wish  to  sow  them. 
Observe  not  to  place  them  in  the  way  of  mice,  rats,  or  squirrels, 
which  would  immediately  destroy  them ;  and  when  sown,  every  pre- 
caution must  be  taken  to  preserve  them  from  these  animals. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

Winter  pears  and  apples  should  generally  be  gathered  this  month; 
some  will  be  fit  for  pulling  in  the  early  part,  others  not  before  the 
middle  or  latter  end  thereof. 

To  know  when  the  fruits  have  had  their  full  growth,  you  should 
try  several  of  them  in  different  parts  of  the  trees,  by  turning  them 
gently  one  way  or  the  other ;  if  they  quit  the  tree  easily,  it  is  a  sign 
of  maturity  and  time  to  gather  them. 

But  none  of  the  more  delicate  eating  pears  should  be  suffered  to 
remain  on  the  trees  till  overtaken  by  frost,  for  if  they  are  once 
touched  with  it,  it  will  occasion  many  of  them  to  rot  in  a  very  short 
time.  Indeed,  it  would  be  needless,  even  wrong,  to  suffer  either 
apples  or  pears  to  remain  on  the  trees  after  the  least  appearance  of 
ice  upon  the  water,  as  they  would  be  subject  to  much  injury,  and 
receive  no  possible  kind  of  benefit  afterwards. 


552  THE  ORCHARD.  [OCT. 

Observe  in  gathering  the  principal  keeping  fruits,  both  pears  and 
apples,  to  do  it  when  the  trees  and  fruit  are  perfectly  dry,  otherwise 
they  will  not  keep  so  well  j  and  that  the  sorts  designed  for  long  keep- 
ing be  all  carefully  hand  pulled,  one  by  one,  and  laid  gently  into  a 
basket,  so  as  not  to  bruise  one  another. 

According  as  the  fruits  are  gathered  carry  them  into  the  fruitery 
or  into  some  convenient  dry,  clean  apartment,  and  lay  them  carefully 
in  heaps,  each  sort  separate,  for  about  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  in  order 
that  the  watery  juices  may  transpire,  which  will  make  them  keep 
longer,  and  render  them  much  better  for  eating  than  if  put  up  finally 
as  soon  as  pulled. 

When  they  have  lain  in  heaps  that  time  wipe  each  fruit,  one  after 
another,  with  a  clean  dry  cloth,  and  if  you  have  a  very  warm  dry 
cellar  where  frost  is  by  no  means  likely  to  enter,  nor  the  place  sub- 
ject to  much  dampness,  lay  them  singly  upon  shelves  coated  with  dry 
straw,  and  cover  them  with  a  layer  of  the  same. 

Or  you  may  wrap  some  of  the  choice  sorts,  separately,  in  white 
paper,  and  pack  them  up  in  barrels,  or  in  baskets,  lined  with  the 
like  material.  Or,  after  being  wiped  dry,  lay  layer  about  of  fruit 
and  perfectly  dry  sand  in  barrels,  and  head  them  up  as  tight  as  pos- 
sible. In  default  of  sand  you  may  use  barley  chaff,  bran,  or  dry 
saw-dust. 

Another  method,  and  a  very  good  one,  is  to  be  provided  with  a 
number  of  large  earthen  jars,  and  a  quantity  of  moss,  in  a  perfectly 
dry  state ;  and  when  the  fruits  are  wiped  dry  as  before  directed,  your 
jars  being  also  dry,  lay  therein  layer  about  of  fruit  and  moss  till  the 
jars  are  near  full,  then  cover  with  a  layer  of  moss. 

Suffer  them  to  remain  in  this  state  for  eight  or  ten  days,  then  ex- 
amine a  stratum  or  two  at  the  top  to  see  if  the  moss  and  fruits  are 
perfectly  dry ;  and  if  you  find  them  in  a  good  condition,  stop  the  jars 
up  with  good  cork  plugs,  and  cover  them  with  some  melted  rosin  to 
keep  out  air.  The  pears  and  apples  to  be  used  this  way  should  be  of 
the  latest  and  best  keeping  kinds,  and  such  as  are  not  generally  fit 
for  use  till  February,  March,  or  April. 

After  the  jars  are  sealed  as  above,  place  them  in  a  warm,  dry  cel- 
lar or  room,  on  a  bed  of  perfectly  dry  sand,  at  least  one  foot  thick ; 
and  about  the  middle  of  November,  or  sooner  if  there  is  any  danger 
to  be  apprehended  from  frost,  fill  up  between  the  jars  with  very  dry 
sand  until  it  is  a  foot  thick  around  and  over  them.  Thus  you  may 
preserve  pears  in  the  greatest  perfection  for  eight  or  nine  months, 
and  apples  twelve. 

Be  particularly  careful  to  examine  every  fruit  as  you  wipe  it,  lest 
it  is  bruised,  which  would  cause  it  soon  to  rot  and  communicate  the 
infection,  so  that  in  a  little  time  much  injury  might  be  sustained  in 
consequence  of  a  trifling  neglect  in  the  first  instance :  but,  above  all 
things  place  your  fruit,  whatever  way  they  are  put  up,  completely 
out  of  the  reach  of  frost. 

The  common  kinds,  for  more  immediate  use,  after  being  sweated 
and  wiped  as  before  directed,  may  be  packed  in  hampers  or  barrels, 
layer  about  of  fruit  and  straw,  and  placed  where  they  will  neither 
be  exposed  to  damps  nor  frost. 


OCT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  553 


PLANTING  AND  PRUNING  FRUIT-TREES. 

"What  I  have  said  under  the  article  Fruit  Garden  for  this  month, 
is  perfectly  applicable,  inasmuch  as  it  has  relation  to  the  planting  and 
pruning  of  orchards  at  this  season.  But  for  general  instructions  on 
these  heads,  I  refer  you  to  the  article  Orchard,  in  January,  page  57, 
February,  page  150,  and  March,  page  234,  &c.  After  a  careful 
perusal  of  what  is  there  said,  you  will  be  perfectly  able  to  judge  (taking 
into  consideration  .the  nature  of  your  soil  and  local  situation  of  the 
place),  whether  it  is  more  prudent  for  you. to  plant  and  prune  in  the 
autumn,  or  to  defer  that  business  till  the  opening  of  spring. 

If  any  of  your  fruit-trees  are  cracked  and  rough  in  the  bark  when 
the  fruit  is  pulled,  scrape  off  the  loose  parts,  and,  with  a  large  paint- 
ing brush  apply  a  mixture  of  cow-dung  and  urine  made  to  the  con- 
sistence of  a  thick  paint,  covering  the  stem  and  any  other  parts  so 
affected  carefully  over  therewith.  This  will  soften  the  old  rough 
bark,  which  will  peal  off  with  it  during  the  following  winter  and 
spring,  leaving  after  it  the  smooth  fresh  bark  only.  Your  trees  being 
freed  from  that  incumbrance  and  harbor  for  worms,  insects,  &c.,  will 
thrive  much  more  luxuriantly  than  before. 


THE    VINEYARD. 

Having  given  ample  instructions  last  month  for  the  making  of 
wines,  curing  of  raisins,  and  preserving  the  fruit  fresh  for  a  length 
of  time,  &c.,  it  is  unnecessary  to  touch  upon  those  subjects  in  this 
place ;  therefore,  I  have  only  to  refer  you  to  the  article  Vineyard,  on 
page  509,  &c.,  for  information  respecting  anything  yet  remaining  to 
be  done  of  what  was  there  recommended. 

In  the  southern  States  vineyards  may  now  be  planted,  and  vines 
propagated  by  cuttings,  &c.,  and  indeed  where  the  winters  are  mild 
and  but  little  or  no  frost,  this  is  the  most  suitable  season  for  so  doing, 
particularly  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month.  But  in  the  middle 
States  the  month  of  March,  and  in  the  eastern  States  the  early  part 
of  April  will  be  the  most  preferable  periods  in  which  to  perform  this 
business. 

The  subject  of  planting  and  propagating  the  vine  being  treated  of 
at  full  length  in  March,  beginning  at  page  244,  I  refer  you  thereto 
for  the  necessary  information. 

In  the  middle  States,  rooted  vines  may  now  be  transplanted  if 
necessity  requires  it,  but  in  no  other  case  would  I  recommend  it ; 
and  these  should  be  protected  by  laying  litter  around  their  roots,  or 
some  other  suitable  defence  from  the  severity  of  the  frosts.  Layers, 
however,  may  now  be  made  with  good  prospects  of  success ;  and  if 
you  find  it  more  convenient  to  procure  cuttings  at  this  season  than 
in  spring,  you  may  plant  them  ;  but  observe  that  it  will  be  necessary 
to  cover  them  lightly  with  straw,  fern,  leaves  of  trees,  or  some  other 


554  THE  VINEYARD.  [OCT. 

light  covering  during  winter  or  many  of  them  will  miscarry.  Though 
these  plants  are  extremely  hardy  when  once  established,  they  are 
rather  tender  in  their  infancy,  and  every  advantage  of  season  ought 
to  be  afforded  them,  especially  in  those  parts  of  the  Union  where  the 
winters  are  severe. 

As  to  the  practice  of  pruning  grape-vines  in  autumn,  it  is  not 
advisable,  except  where  the  winters  are  very  mild.  In  the  southern 
States  this  may  be  done  with  great  propriety  as  soon  in  this  or  the 
ensuing  month  as  the  foliage  shall  have  been  shed,  but  by  no  means 
before,  as  while  the  leaves  remain  on  the  vines  will  not  have  done 
growing,  and  consequently  the  wood  will  not  be  sufficiently  ripe 
and  hard. 

For  further  observations,  together  with  the  methods  of  pruning, 
see  page  155,  &c.  (See  also  the  Vineyard  for  next  month.) 

PLANTING  WILLOWS  FOR  TYING  THE  GRAPE-VINES,  ETC. 

In  the  latter  end  of  this,  or  the  early  part  of  next  month,  you 
should  make  plantations  of  willows  for  the  purpose  of  tying  up  the 
vines  with  the  small  flexible  twigs  thereof. 

Osiers  or  willows  are  also  very  useful  in  a  garden  for  tying  the 
branches  of  espalier- trees  to  trellises,  binding  up  lettuces,  cabbages, 
endive,  &c.,  for  blanching,  tying  bundles  of  trees  or  shrubs,  making 
garden  baskets,  &c.,  so  that  a  small  plantation  or  hedge- row  of  wil- 
lows would  be  very  useful  in  every  garden  department. 

The  kinds  most  suitable  for  this  purpose  are  the  Salix  viminalis, 
or  true  osier ;  S.  fissa,  or  basket  osier ;  and  S.  vltillina,  or  golden 
willow. 

Willows  of  those  kinds  particularly,  delight  in  low  moist  situa- 
tions (though  they  grow  to  good  perfection  in  a  strong  loam),  con- 
sequently, soil  that  is  generally  useless  or  of  but  little  value,  may  be 
profitably  occupied  by  them.  Make  choice  of  such  ground  and  plough 
it  deep  if  possible  for  the  reception  of  the  cuttings ;  if  too  wet  for 
the  plough,  form  it  with  a  spade  and  shovel  into  four  feet  wide  ridges 
with  deep  trenches  between,  casting  up  the  earth  out  of  the  trenches 
to  form  the  ridges  high  and  rounding ;  in  each  ridge  plant  two  rows 
of  cuttings,  each  row  a  foot  from  the  edge,  and  the  sets  two  feet  and 
a  half  distant  from  one  another  in  the  row. 

The  cuttings  or  sets  should  be  about  two  feet  long,  made  from 
strong  shoots  of  two  or  three  years'  growth,  and  about  two-thirds 
of  each  set  planted  or  drove  into  the  earth,  leaving  the  rest  out  to 
form  the  stool ;  each  of  these  will  throw  out  several  shoots,  and  if 
kept  free  from  weeds  for  the  ensuing  season,  they  will  provide  for 
themselves  afterwards. 

The  year  old  shoots  being  what  are  generally  used  for  the  various 
purposes  noticed,  the  whole  produce  must  be  cut  down  annually, 
either  in  autumn  or  spring,  to  promote  such  growths.  However,  a 
sufficiency  may  now  be  suffered  to  grow  for  two  or  three  years  when 
sets  are  wanted  for  an  additional  plantation. 

If  the  ground  can  be  ploughed,  it  will  be  attended  with  less  trou- 
ble, and  the  rows  may  be  planted  three  feet  asunder :  the  distance  of 


OCT.]  THE  NURSERY.  555 

the  sets  from  one  another  in  each  row,  should  be  about  two  feet  and 
a  half. 

I  would  advise  to  plant  the  cuttings  with  a  dibble,  in  preference 
to  forcing  them  in,  as  by  the  latter  method  the  bark  would  be  in- 
jured. 

This  work  may  be  done  with  equal  propriety,  and  sometimes  with 
more  success  in  the  early  part  of  spring.  Cuttings  may  also  be 
planted  at  either  season  in  the  face  of  moist  ditches,  where  they  will 
succeed  extremely  well. 


THE   NURSERY. 


TRENCHING   AND   DRESSING   THE    GROUND. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month  continue  to  trench  and  prepare 
the  several  quarters  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  stocks,  to  graft  and 
bud  the  several  sorts  of  fruit  upon,  and  also  for  the  various  other 
planting  and  sowing  that  may  be  necessary. 

Carry  dung  into  such  parts  of  the  nursery  as  it  is  wanted,  and 
spread  it  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground  around  the  stems  of  young 
trees  ;  this  will  contribute  to  the  preservation  of  their  roots  from  frost, 
the  rains  will  wash  in  the  salts  to  the  roots  of  the  trees,  and  in  spring 
you  may  dig  in  the  dung  between  the  respective  rows. 

PROPAGATING   TREES   AND    SHRUBS   BY   LAYERS. 

Any  time  this  month  you  may  lay  the  various  kinds  of  trees  and 
shrubs  that  you  wish  to  propagate  in  that  way  j  for  the  methods  of 
doing  which,  together  with  several  useful  observations,  see  page  300, 
&c. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  take  off  such  layers  of1  the 
preceding  year  as  are  well  rooted,  trim  their  stems,  and  plant  them  in 
nursery-rows,  or  elsewhere  as  may  be  necessary. 

This  is  the  best  season  to  lay  elms,  limes,  maples,  and  most  kinds 
of  hardy  forest-trees  and  flowering  shrubs ;  for  the  moisture  of  the 
ground  during  winter  will  prepare  them  for  pushing  out  roots  early 
in  the  spring. 

PROPAGATING   TREES   AND   SHRUBS   BY   CUTTINGS. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  plant  cuttings  of  all  hardy  trees  and 
shrubs,  that  will  grow  by  that  method,  especially  in  the  southern 
States ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  them  where  water  does  not 
lodge  in  winter.  Poplars,  willows,  plane-trees,  honeysuckles,  &c., 
will  grow  freely  in  this  way  ;  but  for  more  particulars,  see  page  304. 

Cuttings  of  all  sorts  planted  a  year  ago,  or  last  spring,  that  are 
well  rooted  and  have  shot  freely  at  top,  may,  towards  the  latter  end 


556  THE  NURSERY.  [OCT. 

of  this  month,  be  transplanted,  if  necessary,  into  open  nursery-rows, 
to  advance  in  growth  and  to  have  occasional  training  for  the  purposes 
intended. 


SOWING   HAW   AND    HOLLY   BERRIES,  ETC. 

In  the  southern  States  you  may  any  time  in  this  or  the  three  en- 
suing months,  if  the  ground  is  open,  sow  haw,  holly,  yew,  and  meze- 
reon  berries,  ash,  hornbeam,  and  any  other  kind  of  seeds  that  require 
a  year's  previous  preparation ;  but  in  the  middle  States,  I  would  re- 
commend to  defer  the  sowing  of  these  till  the  latter  end  of  February, 
or  very  early  in  March,  and  in  the  eastern  States,  as  soon  in  the 
latter  month  as  possible.  Indeed  it  would  not  be  wrong  to  defer  the 
sowing  of  them,  even  in  the  southern  States,  till  January  or  Febru- 
ary, according  to  the  respective  climates,  always  endeavoring  to  sow 
them  before  they  begin  to  vegetate. 

Observe  that  each  kind  has  undergone  a  full  year's  preparation, 
previous  to  sowing,  as  directed  in  the  Nursery  for  February  and 
March,  where  you  will  find  ample  instructions  for  the  cultivation  of 
these  and  many  other  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  which  I  would 
particularly  recommend  to  your  perusal  at  this  time. 

SOWING   OAK   ACORNS,    CHESTNUTS,  WALNUTS,    HICKORY-NUTS,  ETC. 

The  best  season  in  the  year  for  sowing  the  acorns  of  every  kind 
of  oak,  is  immediately  after  they  fall  from  the  trees  ;  for  when  kept 
up  much  longer,  especially  in  a  dry  state,  they  lose  their  vegetative 
power. 

The  only  evils  they  have  to  encounter  by  sowing  them  at  this 
season  are,  the  depredations  of  mice,  rats,  and  squirrels,  &c. ;  if  these 
animals  can  be  caught,  poisoned,  or  kept  off  by  any  means  that  may 
be  devised,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  immediately  j  but  if  not,  it  will 
be  better  to  preserve  them  till  the  early  spring  months,  in  sand  or 
earth,  or  in  moss,  and  although  they  will  soon  sprout,  their  progress 
in  vegetation  before  the  opening  of  spring  will  not  be  such  as  to-do 
them  any  material  injury,  provided  they  are  placed  immediately  in 
the  coldest  place  possible  till  winter,  and  further,  that  you  do  not 
break  the  small  radicles  when  planting  them  in  spring. 

The  acorns,  if  sown  or  planted  at  this  time,  should  be  laid  within 
one  inch  of  one  another  in  drills  about  two  feet  apart,  and  covered 
about  an  inch  deep ;  here  they  may  remain  till  they  shall  have  had 
two  years'  growth,  when  they  must  be  taken  up  and  planted  into 
nursery-rows  at  proper  distances,  there  to  acquire  a  sufficient  growth 
and  strength  for  a  final  transplanting,  which  will  generally  be  the 
case  in  about  two  or  three  years. 

Chestnuts  of  every  kind,  walnuts,  and  hickory-nuts  may  be  planted 
now,  or  immediately  after  being  ripe ;  they  have  the  same  enemies  to 
encounter  as  the  acorns ;  but  all  these  kinds  will  keep  well  till  spring 
in  dry  sand,  or  even  in  bags  or  boxes,  and  if  planted  early  in  that 
season  will  vegetate  freely. 

But  if  you  find  it  more  convenient  to  plant  the  nuts  in  autumn, 


OCT.]  THE  NURSERY.  557 

let  that  be  done,  if  possible,  when  they  are  perfectly  ripe,  and  in 
their  outward  covers  or  husks,  the  extreme  bitterness  of  which  will 
be  a  good  preservative  against  the  attacks  of  vermin  of  every  kind. 

When  you  desire  to  cultivate  the  Juglans  regia,  or  European 
walnut,  for  its  fruit,  and  likewise  any  of  the  other  species,  make 
choice  of  the  best  varieties  of  nuts,  such  as  are  large,  thin  shelled, 
and  have  the  finest  flavored  kernels;  for  although  the  best  sorts  will 
vary  or  degenerate,  when  raised  from  seeds,  yet,  by  planting  the 
mbst  valuable  varieties,  there  will  be  the  better  chance  of  having 
good  kinds  continued. 

For  the  method  of  planting,  and  the  subsequent  treatment  of 
chestnuts,  walnuts,  &c.,  see  page  282. 

Note. — When  oaks,  chestnuts,  or  walnuts,  &c.,  are  planted  exclu- 
sively on  account  of  their  timber,  it  will  be  the  better  way,  when  it 
can  conveniently  be  done,  to  sow  or  plant  the  acorns  and  nuts  where 
they  are  intended  to  remain  for  full  and  mature  growth ;  for  trees 
of  either  of  these  kinds  seldom  attain  to  as  great  magnitude  after 
having  been  transplanted,  as  if  suffered  to  remain  undisturbed  where 
the  seeds  were  sown. 


TRANSPLANTING  STOCKS,  TO  BUD  AND  GRAFT  UPON. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  plant  out  into  nur- 
sery-rows all  the  hardy  kinds  of  seedling  stocks,  to  bud  and  graft  the 
different  varieties  of  fruits  upon. 

Let  these  be  planted  out  in  rows  three  feet  asunder,  and  one  foot 
or  more  distant  from  one  another  in  the  rows. 

Plant  also  for  the  purpose  of  stocks,  suckers  from  the  roots  of 
plums,  codlins,  pears,  quinces,  &c.,  but  seedlings  are  much  more  pre- 
ferable if  you  are  sufficiently  supplied  therewith. 

Transplant  likewise  from  nursery  beds  and  layer-stools  all  the 
well  rooted  cuttings  and  layers  that  were  planted  or  laid  a  year  ago, 
or  in  the  last  spring,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  stocks  for  fruit-trees  ; 
particularly  quinces  and  codlins,  to  bud  and  graft  dwarf  pears  and 
apples  upon,  in  order  to  form  dwarf  trees  for  walls  and  espaliers, 
planting  them  in  nursery-rows  as  above. 

PLANTING  HARDY  DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

All  manner  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  planted 
now  into  nursery-rows,  or  finally  where  they  are  to  remain,  imme- 
diately after  they  have  shed  their  leaves,  or  as  soon  as  the  general 
foliage  is  turned  yellow  and  on  the  decline ;  but  observe  that  plant- 
ing at  this  season  should  always  be  done  in  ground  that  lies  dry  in 
winter.  When  that  is  the  case,  the  trees,  shrubs,  &c.,  will  establish 
new  roots  before  they  are  overtaken  by  the  heats  of  the  ensuing 
summer,  and  will  require  but  very  little  trouble  in  watering. 

PRUNING. 

In  the  latter  part  of  this  month  you  may  begin  to  prune  and  re- 


558  THE  NURSERY.  [OCT. 

duce  into  proper  form  most  kinds  of  hardy  forest  and  fruit-trees, 
flowering  shrubs,  &c.,  clearing  their  stems  from  lateral  shoots,  eradi- 
cating suckers,  and  dressing  their  heads  in  a  neat  and  becoming 
manner. 

PLANTING  HARDY  EVERGREENS. 

Between  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  plant 
pines,  firs,  cedars,  junipers,  and  every  other  kind  of  hardy  ever- 
green trees  and  shrubs.  However,  I  would  not  advise  to  plant 
small  seedlings  of  any  kind  at  this  season,  especially  in  the  middle 
and  eastern  States,  as  many  of  them  would  be  thrown  out  of  the 
ground  by  the  winter  frosts,  and  most  of  them  so  loosened  in  the 
earth  as  to  be  subject  to  great  injury*  from  the  parching  winds  in 
spring ;  consequently,  March  will  be  a  more  eligible  season  for  this 
purpose. 

SOWING  STONES  OP  FRUIT-TREES. 

If  you  are  not  apprehensive  of  the  ravages  of  mice,  rats,  squirrels, 
&c.,  you  may  now  sow  the  stones  of  plums,  peaches,  nectarines, 
apricots,  &c.,  or  you  may,  if  you  think  it  more  prudent,  preserve 
them  in  sand,  &c.,  as  directed  on  former  occasions,  till  February  or 
March. 

These  stones  may  now  be  sown  pretty  thick  in  drills,  two  feet 
asunder,  and  covered  from  one  to  two  inches  deep,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  respective  kinds  and  lightness  of  the  soil ;  and  at  this  time 
twelve  months  such  of  them  as  shall  have  attained  to  a  good  growth 
may  be  transplanted  into  nursery-rows. 

SOWING  BEECH- MAST,  MAPLES,  ETC. 

Beech-mast,  maple,  and  several  other  kinds  may  now  be  sown  as 
directed  in  March,  or  they  may  be  preserved  in  dry  sand  till  that 
season. 

Note. — Many  sorts  of  seeds  may  now  be  sown,  but  as  I  treated  on 
the  subject  of  the  Nursery  at  considerable  length  in  March,  and  there 
noticed  what  kinds  might  be  sown  with  safety  in  autumn,  I  refer  you 
thereto  for  particular  information. 

SOWING  APPLE,  CRAB,  AND  PEAR  PUMICE. 

The  pumice  of  apples,  crabs,  and  pears,  after  having  been  pressed 
for  cider  or  perry,  may  be  sown,  kernels  and  all,  in  four  feet  wide 
beds,  laid  on  very  thick  and  covered  about  an  inch  deep  with  good 
light  earth.  In  spring  the  plants  will  rise  freely  and  produce  you 
a  good  supply,  either  for  stocks,  or  for  making  live  hedges.  (See 
page  274.) 

PRESERVATION  OF  FRUITS. 

A  fruit  room  much  commended  is  now  in  use  among  many  fruit 
raisers,  which  it  may  be  as  well  to  describe.  There  is  a  cavity  be- 


OCT.] 


THE  PLEASURE,  OE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


559 


tween  the  boarding  and  walls,  which  is  important,  and  so  is  the 
wooden  lining,  because  air  and  wood  are  known  to  be  slow  conductors 
of  heat.  The  ceiling  is  double,  and  the  floor  is  wood  above  a  ceiling, 
which  to  a  considerable  extent  insures  a  uniformity  of  temperature. 

Fig.  59. 


There  is  a  small  stove  in  the  room,  but  it  is  only  used  when  the 
temperature  is  below  the  freezing  point,  or  to  remove  damp;  the 
fruit  is  therefore  kept  cool.  A  swing  window  is  occasionally  a  little 
opened,  but  should  be  at  all  times  covered  with  a  roller  blind,  so  that 
the  fruit  is  kept  in  the  dark.  The  shelves  a,  a,  have  a  layer  of  clean 
straw  laid  across  them;  on  this  the  fruit  is  laid  singly.  (Fig.  59.) 


THE    PLEASURE,    OR    FLOWER   GARDEN. 


AURICULAS,  POLYANTHUSES,  AND  PRIMROSES. 

The  auriculas  in  pots  must  now  be  kept  very  clean,  all  decayed 
leaves  picked  off  occasionally,  and  moderate  waterings  administered 
as  often  as  necessary,  that  the  plants  may  attain  due  strength  before 
winter. 

The  choice  of  polyanthuses  and  double  primroses  are  to  be  treated 
in  every  respect  as  the  auriculas ;  the  common  kinds  may  now  be 
planted  in  beds  and  borders  of  good  ground,  where  they  will  flower 
early  in  spring  in  tolerable  perfection,  especially  if  they  have  a 
slight  covering  of  straw  or  light  dry  litter  laid  over  them  during 
severe  frosts. 

The  seedling  plants  of  each  of  the  above  kinds  must  be  kept  free 
from  weeds  and  filth  of  every  sort,  and  receive  regular  but  gentle 


560  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

waterings  to  promote  their  growth  and  strength  as  much  as  possible 
before  winter. 

For  the  methods  of  preserving  the  choice  kinds  of  auriculas, 
polyanthuses,  and  primroses  during  winter,  see  the  Flower  Garden 
in  November. 


CARNATIONS. 

The  carnation  layers  that  were  taken  off  in  August  or  September, 
and  all  other  choice  carnations  in  pots  should  now  be  kept  clean 
and  duly  watered,  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  be  placed 
in  a  warm  situation,  there  to  remain  until  disposed  of  as  directed  in 
November. 

The  seedlings  and  common  kinds  may  be  transplanted  into  beds 
and  borders  where  wanted. 


PINKS. 

Your  choice  double  pinks  in  pots,  will  require  the  same  treatment 
as  the  carnations ;  but  as  pinks  are  extremely  hardy,  they  may  be 
cultivated  in  great  perfection  in  the  open  ground. 

A  good  fresh  loamy  soil  trenched  about  two  feet  deep,  well  pul- 
verized, and  manured  with  a  stratum  of  cow-dung  two  years  old, 
mixed  with  an  equal  portion  of  sound  good  earth ;  this  stratum  to 
be  about  six  inches  thick,  and  placed  about  four  inches  below  the 
surface,  is  all  the  preparation  or  compost  that  appears  necessary  for 
this  flower. 

The  bed  should  be  raised  three  or  four  inches  above  the  surround- 
ing paths,  and  its  sides  may  be  supported  with  an  edging  of  boards 
to  come  up  even  with,  or  one  inch  higher  than  its  surface ;  this  last 
for  the  sake  of  neatness,  more  than  any  particular  utility  it  will  be 
of  to  the  plants. 

The  plants  intended  for  the  principal  bloom  should  be  planted  in 
it  in  the  first  week  of  this  month  or  in  September,  as  they  do  not 
blow  quite  so  strong  if  removed  late  in  the  season :  they  should  be 
planted  at  the  distance  of  nine  inches  from  each  other,  and  the  bed 
should  be  laid  rather  convex  or  rounding,  to  throw  off  excess  of  rain, 
but  it  will  require  no  other  covering  than  a  very  slight  one  in  case 
of  severe  frosts. 

The  bed  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  its  surface  stirred  up 
a  little  if  it  inclines  to  bind. 

Carnations  will  prosper  very  well  if  treated  in  the  above  manner. 

The  more  indifferent  kinds  of  pinks  may  be  planted  in  the  common 
borders,  &c. 

PLANTING  SUPERB  TULIP  ROOTS. 

The  most  proper  season  for  planting  tulip  roots  in  general  is  from 
the  middle  to  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  and  indeed  I  should  prefer 
the  middle  to  any  other  period,  for  about  that  time  you  will  perceive 
a  circle  around  the  lower  end  of  each  bulb,  disposed  to  swell,  pre- 


OCT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  561 

paratory  to  the  emission  of  fibres,  and  also  a  disposition  at  the  upper 
end  of  some  to  show  foliage. 

By  keeping  the  roots  out  of  ground  after  this  predisposition  to 
vegetation,  they  would  be  greatly  weakened  thereby. 

The  situation  for  the  best  bed  of  superior  tulips,  should  be  in  an 
open  airy  part  of  the  garden,  protected  at  the  same  time  from  north 
and  west  winds  by  some  distant  shelter;  when  that  is  fixed  upon,  the 
ground  should  be  marked  out  agreeably  to  its  intended  dimensions, 
and  the  soil  taken  out  twenty  inches  deep ;  the  bottom  is  then  to  be 
filled  up  with  sound  fresh  earth  ten  inches  thick,  upon  which  is  to 
be  placed  a  stratum  of  two  years  old  rotten  cow-dung  and  earth  of 
the  above  description,  one-half  of  each,  well  mixed  together  and  laid 
on  twelve  inches  thick ;  upon  this  is  to  be  placed  another  stratum  of 
the  same  kind  of  earth  as  that  of  the  bottom  ;  this  latter  is  only  to  be 
two  inches  thick  at  the  sides,  and  three  in  the  middle  of  the  bed, 
which  will  give  it  a  small  degree  of  convexity. 

The  bed  should  be  thus  prepared  a  week  or  ten  days  previous  to 
planting  the  roots,  in  order  to  give  it  time  to  settle,  so  as  to  be  about 
two  inches  higher  than  the  circumjacent  paths;  but  if  heavy  rains 
intervene  between  this  preparation  of  the  bed  and  planting,  it  will 
be  proper  to  keep  them  off  in  order  to  preserve  the  earth  from  be- 
coming too  compact  by  a  redundancy  of  moisture,  for  the  young 
fibres  to  pass  freely  through  it. 

On  the  day  made  choice  of  for  planting,  rake  the  surface  of  the 
bed  smooth,  and  level  any  inequalities,  still  preserving  its  convexity, 
and  mark  the  exact  situation  for  every  root  upon  it.  The  proper 
distance  between  each  root  is  seven  inches  every  way. 

A  bed  consisting  of  seven  rows  makes  the  most  grand  appearance 
when  it  is  of  sufficient  length,  with  a  path  around  it  about  two  and 
a  half  or  three  feet  wide ;  but  where  the  number  of  roots  is  small, 
five  rows  may  suffice,  and  the  path  in  that  case  may  either  extend 
quite  around  the  bed,  or  only  on  one  side,  at  pleasure. 

If  the  bed  consists  of  seven  rows  it  should  consequently  be  fifty 
inches  wide,  which  will  allow  a  space  of  four  inches  between  the  out- 
side rows  and  the  sides  of  the  bed;  but  if  the  bed  contains  only  five 
rows,  it  will  only  require  to  be  three  feet  wide  to  give  the  roots  simi- 
lar distances. 

Having  sprinkled  a  little  clean  sand  where  the  roots  are  to  be  setr 
place  them  with  great  exactness,  and  add  some  very  sandy  earth,  so 
as  to  completely  envelope  each  root  in  a  little  cone  of  it ;  then  cover 
the  whole  very  carefully  with  strong,  sound,  fresh  loam,  about  four 
inches  thick  or  a  little  better,  if  the  roots  are  strong,  so  as  to  allow 
the  covering  to  be  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  inches  thick,  after 
the  earth  shall  have  settled,  still  observing  to  preserve  the  original 
convexity  of  the  bed. 

The  tallest  growing  kinds  should  be  placed  in  the  middle;  and  the- 
lower  towards  the  outsides.  No  tulip  root,  whatever  may  be  its  size 
or  strength,  should  be  planted  more  than  four  inches  deep  from  the 
upper  side  of  the  root ;  nor  should  any  blooming  root  be  planted  less 
than  three  inches  deep,  however  small  it  may  be.  The  soil  made 
use  of  for  covering  the  bulbs,  should  be  frequently  turned  over  and 
36 


562  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

thoroughly  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air  some  time  before  it  is  made 
use  of,  that  it  may  be  rendered  perfectly  sweet  and  free  from  the 
acrid  quality  that  most  soils  are  most  subject  to  when  taken  consider- 
ably below  the  surface. 

If  the  bed  is  only  to  contain  five  rows,  with  a  path  in  the  front 
and  not  behind,  then  it  will  be  proper  to  plant  the  smallest  and 
lowest  growing  kinds  in  the  front  next  the  path,  and  so  gradually  to 
increase  in  the  size  to  the  fifth  or  last  row,  which  should  contain  the 
strongest  and  tallest  of  all.  Board  edgings  may  be  placed  around 
the  beds  as  high  or  an  inch  higher  than  the  surface ;  this  will  not 
only  keep  the  earth  from  crumbling  down  from  the  outside  rows,  but 
give  a  degree  of  neatness  to  the  whole. 

When  the  operation  of  planting  is  concluded,  in  order  to  preserve 
the  bed  from  heavy  rains  or  severe  frosts,  it  should  be  arched  over 
with  hoops  at  convenient  distances,  on  which  to  lay  mats  or  canvas 
on  such  emergencies  j  but  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  defend  it  from 
moderate  rains  or  slight  frosts:  for  too  frequent  and  long  covering 
will  deprive  the  roots  of  the  due  action  and  influence  of  the  air, 
which  ought  to  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible  :  it  were  even  better 
not  to  cover  at  all  than  over  do  it  to  the  certain  detriment  of  the 
plants. 

Having  procured  roots  of  the  finest  sorts,  and  pursuing  the  pre- 
ceding instructions,  you  may  depend  on  having  those  incomparable 
flowers  in  the  greatest  perfection  possible. 

The  common  kinds  of  tulips,  being  of  little  value,  may  be  planted 
in  small  patches  of  three,  four,  or  five  roots  together,  around  the 
borders  of  the  garden  or  pleasure-ground,  and  covered  the  same 
depth  as  the  others. 

PLANTING   THE   BEST  HYACINTH  ROOTS. 

The  roots  of  hyacinths  may  be  planted  with  good  expectation  of 
success  at  any  time  from  the  beginning  of  this  month  to  the  middle 
of  November ;  but  I  would  prefer  the  middle  of  the  present  month, 
as  being  the  best  period  in  which  these  roots  can  be  planted  ;  for 
about  that  time  they  will  show  a  natural  inclination  to  vegetate, 
manifested  by  a  swelling  of  the  circle  from  whence  the  fibres  pro- 
ceed, which  will  be  soon  followed  by  an  actual  appearance  of  their 
points,  together  with  that  of  the  foliage  at  the  other  extremity  of  the 
root,  in  the  form  of  a  small  cone  of  a  greenish  color. 

The  bed  on  which  the  finest  sorts  are -to  be  planted  should  be 
situated  in  rather  a  dry  and  airy  part  of  the  garden ;  a  southern  as- 
pect is  to  be  preferred,  sheltered  on  the  north  and  northwest  by  walls, 
trees,  or  buildings,  at  a  distance  from  it  proportionate  to  their  eleva- 
tion ;  that  is,  the  distance  of  the  bed  from  either  should  be  equal  to 
the  height  of  the  wall,  fence,  or  hedge,  &c. 

When  the  situation  is  determined  on,  the  dimension  of  the  bed 
should  be  marked  out  and  the  soil  entirely  taken  away  to  the  depth 
of  at  least  two  feet ;  the  earth  in  the  bottom  should  then  be  dug  and 
well  pulverized  for  about  nine  inches  deep,  and  the  space  above  filled 
with  the  following  compost : — 


OCT.] 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 


563 


One-third  sea  or  river  sand  ;  one-third  fresh  sound  earth  ;  one- 
fourth  rotten  cow-dung  at  least  two  years  old  ;  and  one-twelfth  of 
earth  of  decayed  leaves. 

The  fresh  sound  earth  of  the  compost  should  be  of  the  best  quality 
that  the  garden  or  adjacent  country  affords,  and  entirely  free  from 
noxious  vermin  of  every  description.  These  ingredients  should  be 
well  mixed  and  incorporated  a  considerable  time  before  wanted,  and 
about  ten  days  previous  to  planting,  the  bed  should  be  filled  up  with 
the  compost  to  about  three  inches  above  the  level  of  the  path  on  the 
south  or  front  side,  and  seven  inches  on  the  north  side,  so  as  to  form 
a  regular  slope  or  inclination  towards  the  sun. 

On  planting  the  roots  the  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  covered 
with  fresh  sandy  earth  about  one  inch  thick,  raked  perfectly  smooth 
and  even,  and  have  the  exact  situation  for  every  bulb  marked  on  it, 
as  follows : — 


R     B 


B      B     W     B     B      W     B     B 


W  R  BWR  BWR  B  W 
RBWRBWRBWRB 

W  R  B  W  R  B  W  R  B  W 
RBWRBWRBWRB 

WR       BWR       BWR       BW 


This  plan,  on  minute  investigation,  will  appear  superior  to  any 
other  that  can  be  devised  for  simplicity  and  an  elegant  and  advan- 
tageous display  of  the  colors ;  each  bulb,  those  of  the  outside  rows 
excepted,  will  be  in  the  centre  of  a  hexagon,  and  the  whole  at  equal 
distances  from  each  other.  The  width  of  the  surface  of  the  bed  is  to 
be  four  feet,  the  six  rows  along  it  eight  inches  asunder,  and  the  out- 
side rows  each  four  inches  from  the  sides  of  the  bed ;  consequently 
the  space  between  the  centre  of  each  bulb  will  be  about  nine  inches 
and  a  quarter.  The  letters  R,  B,  W,  denote  the  color  of  the  flower 
to  be  placed  there,  viz:  Red,  Blue,  or  White.  Under  these  three 
heads  all  hyacinths  may  be  comprehended,  except  a  few  sorts  of  yel- 
low, which  may  be  classed  with  the  whites. 

On  planting  the  hyacinths  a  little  clean  sand  should  be  placed 
underneath,  and  likewise  upon  the  roots,  to  prevent  the  earth  ad- 
hering too  close  to  them;  the  whole  are  then  to  be  covered  with 
sound,  fresh,  sandy  earth,  from  three  to  four  inches  deep,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  bulbs ;  when  this  is  completed,  the  bed  will  be 
about  six  or  seven  inches  above  the  level  of  the  walk  in  front,  or  on 
the  south  side,  and  about  ten  or  eleven  inches  on  the  north  side ;  it 
should  be  supported  all  around  with  a  strong  frame  of  thick  boards 
or  with  brickwork ;  this  frame  should  be  six  inches  or  more  higher 
all  around  than  the  surface,  and  of  course  sloping  towards  the  froiit 


564  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

to  support  such  covering  as  may  be  necessary  for  the  preservation  of 
the  roots  from  heavy  rains  and  severe  frosts.  For  their  further 
treatment  see  the  ensuing  months. 

The  extraordinary  preparation  and  trouble  above  recommended, 
are  only  necessary  to  bring  the  finest  kinds  of  hyacinths  to  the  best 
possible  perfection ;  but  the  nearer  you  can  make  it  convenient  to 
approach  to  said  method,  in  the  cultivation  of  all  the  other  varieties, 
the  greater  perfection  you  may  expect  to  have  them  in ;  this,  how 
ever,  must  be  governed  by  circumstances,  and  you  need  not  despair 
of  having  very  fine  flowers  in  any  good,  rich  kitchen  garden  soil  that 
lies  dry  and  inclines  a  little  to  sand;  and  even  without  any  kind  of 
protection  during  winter. 

The  common  sorts  of  hyacinths,  of  every  species  and  variety,  may 
be  planted  in  open  beds,  or  in  small  clumps  round  the  borders, 
three,  four,  or  five  roots  in  a  place,  and  covered  from  three  to  four 
inches  deep,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  roots  and  lightness  of 
the  soil. 

PLANTING  RANUNCULUSES. 

Ranunculus  roots  may  either  be  planted  before  or  after  winter ;  if 
the  soil  and  situation  is  remarkably  cold  and  wet,  it  will  be  better  to 
defer  planting  till  the  first  opening  of  spring,  but  then  the  earliest 
opportunity  of  planting  them  should  be  embraced. 

In  favorable  situations,  and  where  due  attention  can  be  paid  to 
the  protection  of  the  roots  from  severe  frosts,  the  early  part  of  this 
month  is  the  most  preferable  period  and  should  be  embraced,  as  the 
roots  will  have  more  time  to  vegetate,  and  form  themselves,  and  will, 
of  consequence,  bloom  stronger  and  earlier  than  those  planted  in 
spring. 

The  ranunculuses  are  originally  natives  of  a  warm  climate,  where 
they  blow  in  the  winter,  or  more  rainy  season  of  the  year;  they  are 
of  course  partial  to  coolness  and  moisture,  exempt  from  wet  and  frost, 
which  the  more  delicate  sorts  cannot  bear,  in  any  considerable  de- 
gree, without  injury.* 

A  fresh,  strong,  rich,  loamy  soil,  is  preferable  to  all  others  for 
ranunculuses. 

The  bed  should  be  dug  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  deep,  and 
not  raised  more  than  four  inches  above  the  level  of  the  walks,  to 
preserve  a  moderate  degree  of  moisture ;  at  about  five  inches  below 
the  surface  should  be  placed  a  stratum  of  two  years  old  rotten  cow- 
dung,  mixed  with  earth,  six  or  eight  inches  thick;  but  the  earth 
above  this  stratum,  where  the  roots  are  to  be  planted,  must  be  free 
from  dung,  which  woulji  prove  of  more  injury  than  benefit,  if  too 
near  them.  The  fibres  will  draw  sufficient  nourishment  from  it  at 
the  depth  above  mentioned;  but  if  the  dung  were  placed  deeper  it 

*  The  best  method  of  growing  both  ranunculuses  and  anemones  is  to  plant 
in  frames  covered  with  glass,  and  treat  them  in  the  same  way  as  Neapoli- 
tan violets,  or  else  in  pots  in  a  cool  green-house ;  by  this  treatment  they 
will  bloom  strong,  and  perfect  their  growth  before  the  hot  weather  com- 
mences. 


OCT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  565 

would  not  receive  so  much  advantage  from  the  action  of  the  air, 
which  is  an  object  of  some  importance. 

The  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  raked  perfectly  even  and  flat,  and 
the  roots  planted  in  rows  at  the  distance  of  about  five  or  six  inches 
from  one  another.  It  is  better  to  plant  in  shallow  trenches,  made 
nearly  two  inches  deep,  than  to  make  holes  for  the  reception  of  the 
roots ;  there  should  be  a  little  clean  sand  sprinkled  in  the  trench, 
and  the  roots  placed  with  their  claws  downwards,  each  distant  from 
the  other  about  three  or  four  inches  according  to  its  size  and 
strength ;  when  the  roots  are  thus  laid  in,  fill  the  trenches  up  level, 
with  the  same  earth  that  was  taken  out,  so  as  to  cover  the  roots 
exactly  one  inch  and  a  half  deep,  which  is  the  only  true  depth  to 
produce  a  good  bloom ;  it  is  pointed  out  by  nature  in  a  singular 
manner;  for  when  these  roots  have  been  planted  either  too  shallow 
or  too  deep,  in  either  case,  a  second  root  is  generally  formed  at  a 
proper  depth,  by  which  the  plant  is  weakened  to  such  a  degree  that 
it  seldom  survives  a  repetition  of  it.  It  will  be  of  considerable  ser- 
vice to  have  the  bed  framed  around  with  boards,  or  brickwork,  a  few 
inches  higher  than  its  surface,  in  front,  and  rising  gradually  to  the 
back  part,  in  order  to  make  it  the  more  convenient  to  protect  the 
roots  from  severe  frosts,  as  directed  in  the  following  months. 

PLANTING  ANEMONES. 

Anemones  require  nearly  the  same  treatment  as  ranunculuses,  are 
hardier,  and  consequently  may  be  planted  in  the  autumn  with  more 
safety;  the  most  eligible  period  is  between  the  first  and  fifteenth  of 
this  month,  for  if  the  winter  sets  in  early  and  proves  severe,  late 
planted  roots  will  not  have  time  to  vegetate  before  frosty  weather 
takes  place ;  in  which  case,  there  will  be  great  danger  of  their  perish- 
ing, as  they  are  then  replete  with  moisture,  and  in  a  state  of  inac- 
tivity, which  renders  not  only  them  but  all  other  roots  more  suscepti- 
ble of  injury  from  frost,  and  more  subject  to  mouldiness,  than  after 
vegetation  has  commenced.  To  avoid  which,  as  much  as  possible,  a 
suitable  covering  or  protection  must  be  put  on  and  taken  off  the  beds, 
as  often  and  in  such  proportion,  as  the  exigency  or  circumstances  of 
the  case  may  require. 

The  beds  should  consist  of  the  same  kind  of  soil,  and  be  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  ranunculuses ;  the  roots  should  be  at  nearly 
similar  distances  from  each  other,  and  be  planted  in  the  same  man- 
ner, except  that  they  require  to  be  covered  rather  deeper ;  that  is, 
they  should  be  planted  two  inches  deep.  It  requires  some  care  and 
attention  to  distinguish  which  side  of  the  root  is  to  be  placed  upper- 
most, especially  if  the  small  thread-like  fibres  had  been  entirely 
cleaned  off,  when  the  roots  were  taken  up. 

The  roots  are  in  general  rather  flat,  and  their  eyes,  from  whence 
the  stems  and  flowers  proceed,  are  easily  distinguished  on  one  side 
of  the  root,  which  of  course  should  be  planted  uppermost.  For  their 
further  treatment  see  the  ensuing  months. 


5 60  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 


PLANTING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  BULBOUS-ROOTED  FLOWERS. 

A  good,  sound,  fresh  soil,  either  of  the  black  or  loamy  kind  (with 
the  addition  of  a  little  coarse  sea  or  river  sand  placed  round  the  roots 
on  planting),  and  manured  with  rotten  cow-dung,  two  years  old  at 
least,  if  the  soil  and  situation  be  dry  and  warm,  or  rotten  horse-dung, 
if  it  be  cold  and  moist,  is  all  the  compost  or  preparation  required  for 
the  greater  part  of  those  flowers;  observing  that  the  dung  should 
never  come  in  contact  with  the  bulbs,  or  be  placed  at  so  great  a  depth 
from  the  surface  of  the  soil  as  to  lose  the  advantage  of  the  due  action 
of  the  air  upon  it,  which  would  render  it  poisonous  instead  of  nutri- 
tious :  in  short  it  should  never  be  placed  more  than  eight  or  ten 
inches  deep  upon  any  occasion,  where  it  can  possibly  be  avoided. 

The  polyanthus-narcissus  consists  of  many  varieties ;  each  sort  pro- 
duces several  flowers  on  one  stalk ;  the  roots  may  be  planted  any  time 
this  month,  about  three  or  four  inches  deep ;  they  succeed  best  in 
rather  a  warm  dry  soil  and  situation  :  but  if  the  soil  happens  to  be 
the  reverse,  the  bed  should  be  raised  seven  or  eight  inches  above  the 
common  level,  and  in  either  case  it  would  be  well  to  cover  the  bed 
with  straw  in  case  of  severe  frost,  for  the  roots  of  these  are  more 
tender  and  subject  to  be  injured  by  the  severity  of  the  winter,  than 
either  hyacinths  or  tulips.  The  bed  should  be  formed  rather  round- 
ing, to  cast  off  the  wet,  for  which  a  good  fall  or  descent  should  be 
in  some  convenient  direction.  The  roots  may  remain  two  or  three 
years  in  the  ground  without  being  disturbed ;  but  then  it  will  be 
necessary  to  take  them  up  to  separate  their  offsets,  which  by  being 
longer  connected  with  the  old  roots,  would  cause  them  to  blow  small 
and  weak. 

Double-narcissus  (daffodils)  consist  of  several  varieties ;  they  are 
hardier  than  the  former,  the  Italian  excepted,  and  may  be  treated  in 
a  similar  manner,  but  are  in  less  danger  from  the  effects  of  frost. 

Jonquils,  English,  Spanish,  and  Persian  bulbous  iris  :  the  three 
first  consist  of  several  varieties;  they  may  be  planted  from  two  to 
three  inches  deep,  according  to  the  looseness  of  the  soil  and  strength 
of  the  bulbs,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  polyanthus-nar- 
cissus :  they  are  all  hardy. 

Crown  imperials,  lilies,  pseonias,  and  the  ornithogalum  pyramidale, 
or  star  of  Bethlehem,  should  be  planted  now,  if  not  done  before,  and 
covered  about  four  inches  deep;  these  do  not  require  to  be  taken  up 
oftener  than  once  in  two  or  three  years,  and  then  only  to  separate 
their  offsets. 

Martagons  (lilies  with  revolute  petals)  consist  of  many  species  and 
varieties,  and  may  be  treated  as  other  lilies;  they  however  make  the 
best  appearance  in  beds  by  themselves,  and  will  grow  stronger  if  the 
ground  is  well  manured  and  the  roots  planted  from  five  to  six  inches 
deep.  The  lilies  called  martagons  are,  the  Lilium  chalcedonicum, 
or  scarlet  mart-agon  lily,  L.  cateslaei,  or  Catesby's  lily,  L.  pompo- 
niuniy  or  pomponian  lily,  L.  superbum,  or  superb  lily,  L.  martayon, 
or  purple  martagon  lily,  L.  canadense,  or  Canada  martagon  lily,  and 
L.  japonicum,  or  Japan  white  lily,  with  their  varieties;  the  latter 
obtained  by  sowing  the  seeds  of  the  different  species. 


OCT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  567 

If  not  done  in  the  preceding  months,  you  should  no  longer  defer 
the  planting  of  spring  crocuses,  snowdrops,  hardy  gladioluses,  Persian 
fritillarias,  erythroniums,  pancratium  maratinmm,  orchises,  liinado- 
rum  tuberosum,  snake' s-head  iris,  musk,  feathered,  grape,  and  other 
hyacinths;  the  scilla  maritima,  or  officinal  squill,  scilla  peruviana, 
or  starry  hyacinth,  together  with  all  the  other  kinds  of  hardy  bulbous 
or  tuberous-rooted  flowers  which  you  intend  planting  before  spring. 
These  may  be  planted  separately  in  beds,  or  along  the  borders  of  the 
flower  garden  and  pleasure  grounds,  and  covered  from  two  to  three 
or  four  inches  deep  over  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  according  to  their 
respective  size  and  strength,  and  the  lightness  or  stiffness  of  the  soil. 

In  planting  any  of  the  above  or  other  sorts  in  borders,  observe 
that  the  lowest  growing  kinds  are  to  be  planted  next  the  walks,  and 
the  larger  farther  back,  in  proportion  to  their  respective  growths, 
that  the  whole  nray  appear  to  advantage,  and  none  be  concealed  from 
the  view.  Likewise  observe  to  diversify  the  kinds  and  colors,  so  as 
to  display,  when  in  bloom,  the  greatest  possible  variety  of  shades 
and  contrasts. 

In  assemblage  with  other  flowers  in  the  borders,  these  should  be 
planted  in  small  clumps  of  six,  seven,  or  eight  inches  in  diameter, 
three,  four,  five,  or  more  roots  in  each,  according  to  size  and  growth, 
and  these  at  suitable  distances  from  one  another,  say  one,  two,  or 
three  yards.  Some  of  the  common  anemones  and  ranunculuses  may 
also  be  planted  with  those  roots  in  the  borders,  either  in  rows  towards 
the  edges,  or  in  small  clumps  or  patches  as  above. 

As  much  elegance  of  taste  and  fancy  is  necessary,  and  may  be 
displayed  in  setting  off  a  border  of  intermixed  flowers  to  advantage 
as  perhaps  in  any  other  part  of  gardening. 

SOWING    SEEDS    OP   BULBOUS-ROOTED   FLOWERS,  ETC. 

You  may  still  continue  to  sow  the  seeds  of  bulbous  and  tuberous- 
rooted  flowers,  as  directed  on  page  522. 

TRANSPLANT   PERENNIAL   AND    BIENNIAL  FLOWER   ROOTS. 

The  entire  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  to  divide  and  trans- 
plant the  various  kinds  of  hardy  perennial  and  biennial  flower-roots, 
as  noticed  on  page  523,  which  see. 

Observe  to  plant  the  different  sorts  in  a  diversified  order,  the  low 
growing  kinds  next  the  walks,  and  the  largest  more  remote  therefrom, 
so  that  the  whole  may  rise  in  a  regular  gradation  as  they  advance  in 
growth. 

Collect  ornamental  plants  from  the  woods,  fields,  and  swamps,  as 
directed  on  page  494  ;  this  will  be  a  very  good  time  to  procure  the 
late  flowering  kinds,  many  of  which  are  extremely  beautiful. 

NEAPOLITAN   AND   RUSSIAN   VIOLETS. 

These  may  be  planted  in  frames  having  glazed  sashes,  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  month.  Dig  in  a  third  of  rotted  leaves  or  decayed 


568  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

vegetable  refuse ;  put  out  single  crowns  six  inches  apart,  give  a  good 
soaking  of  water,  and  after  they  have  taken  root,  give  air  freely  in 
all  favorable  weather ;  when  winter  sets  in  cover  with  thick  straw 
mats  at  night.  In  this  way  they  will  bloom  all  winter,  and  repay 
for  the  extra  labor. 

DOUBLE   DAISIES,  ETC. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  prepare  a  warm  border  in  a  south 
aspect,  on  which  to  plant  the  double  daisies  that  you  preserved  in 
shaded  situations  during  summer ;  the  bed  should  be  raised  four  or 
five  inches  above  the  common  level,  and  if  surrounded  with  a  frame 
the  better;  take  up  the  roots  with  balls  of  earth  and  plant  them  on 
this  bed  in  rows,  five  or  six  inches  plant  from  plant,  every  way  ;  give 
them  water  immediately,  and  if  shaded  from  the  sun  for  a  week  or 
two,  it  would  be  of  considerable  service. 

Primroses,  polyanthuses,  and  common  auriculas,  may  be  treated  in 
this  way.  (For  their  further  management  see  the  ensuing  months.) 

STOCK-GILLYFLOWERS   AND   WALL-FLOWERS. 

Any  double  stocks  and  wall-flowers  that  you  have  growing  in  beds 
or  borders,  should  be  potted  in  the  beginning  of  this  month,  if  not 
done  in  September,  and  placed  in  the  shade  for  about  three  weeks, 
then  removed  to  a  warm  aspect,  there  to  remain  till  it  is  found  ne- 
cessary to  house  or  place  them  in  a  frame. 


PLANTING   BULBOUS   ROOTS   IN   POTS  AND  GLASSES   FOR  FLOWERING 

EARLY. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month  you  should  plant  some  of  the  ear- 
liest kinds  of  tulips,  hyacinths,  polyanthus-narcissus,  &c.,  in  pots  of 
light,  rich,  sandy  earth,  one,  two,  or  three  roots  in  each,  and  of  dif- 
ferent colors,  in  order  to  force  them  into  an  early  bloom  in  winter. 
If  the  pots  are  large  the  roots  may  be  covered  one  inch  above  their 
crowns,  but  if  small  the  bare  covering  of  the  crowns  will  be  suffi- 
cient, in  order  to  give  the  fibres  the  more  room  to  extend  themselves. 

Ranunculuses,  anemones,  crocusses,  snowdrops,  dwarf  Persian 
irises,  and  any  other  early  blooming  kinds,  may  be  planted  in  pots 
for  the  same  purpose,  covering  them  generally  about  an  inch  deep 
over  their  crowns. 

When  the  roots  are  planted  the  pots  are  to  be  sunk  to  their  r^ms 
in  a  good  stout  garden  frame,  on  a  bed  of  very  light  sandy  earth, 
elevated  above  the  common  level  of  the  ground,  where  they  are  to  be 
kept  gently  moist  and  no  more;  but  they  must  be  carefully  protected 
from  heavy  torrents  of  rain,  which  would  tend  greatly  to  rot  or 
weaken  the  bulbs.  The  glasses  are  to  be  kept  off,  except  in  rainy 
weather,  till  the  approach  of  frost,  after  which  the  bed  must  be  de- 
fended therefrom  as  directed  in  the  following  months. 

In  this  month  you  should  put  the  bulbs  of  tulips,  hyacinths,  jon- 
quils, narcissuses,  &c.,  in  bulb-glasses  filled  with  water,  to  flower  in 


OCT.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  569 

rooms  early  in  spring ;  the  glasses  should  be  then  placed  where  they 
may  have  as  much  free  air  as  possible  while  the  weather  continues 
mild ;  if  they  are  placed  near  the  windows  of  a  green-house,  where 
they  may  have  free  air  in  favorable  weather,  and  be  protected  from 
cold  and  frost,  they  will  produce  fine,  strong  flowers,  and  at  a  very 
acceptable  season. 

The  water  should  be  changed  as  often  as  it  turns  greenish,  and  the 
glasses  well  washed  inside.  Particular  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
suffer  the  water  to  be  frozen  in  winter,  which  would  not  only  injure 
the  roots  but  burst  the  glasses. 

POTTING  ROSES,  ETC.,  FOR   FORCING. 

Pot  roses,  honeysuckles,  double-flowering  almonds,  peaches,  cher- 
ries, and  thorns,  and  any  other  desirable  shrubs,  whether  evergreen 
or  deciduous,  either  for  the  convenience  of  affording  them  protection 
in  winter,  decorating  any  compartments  in  spring  or  summer,  or  for 
placing  some  of  them  in  the  forcing  departments  in  December  or 
January,  to  force  an  early  bloom.  This  must  be  done  with  care, 
not  injuring  the  roots,  and  taking  up  as  much  earth  with  them  as 
possible.  When  potted,  place  them  in  the  shade  for  ten  or  twelve 
days  after,  or  until  you  find  it  necessary  to  house  or  otherwise  pro- 
tect them. 

PRUNE  FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

This  is  a  very  proper  season  to  prune  roses,  lilacs,  honeysuckles, 
and  indeed  all  kinds  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs,  whether  deciduous 
or  evergreen.  Let  this  be  performed  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  not 
with  garden  shears,  as  sometimes  practised.  But  to  avoid  repetition 
I  refer  you  for  further  instructions  on  this  head,  to  page  172. 

All  suckers  which  arise  from  the  roots  should  now  be  taken  clean 
away,  for  when  suffered  to  remain  they  starve  the  old  plants  and 
prevent  their  flowering;  many  kinds  of  shrubs,  for  instance  the  lilac, 
will  send  forth  great  numbers  of  suckers  from  their  roots,  which,  if 
not  annually  taken  off,  will  spread  over  the  ground  to  the  great  in- 
jury of  your  plants.  These  suckers,  if  wanted,  may  be  planted  in 
nursery  rows  for  a  year  or  two,  and  will  then  answer  for  renewing 
the  old  or  for  forming  new  plantations. 


FORMING  NEW  ORNAMENTAL  PLANTATIONS,  ETC. 

This  being  a  very  proper  season  for  laying  out  and  planting  plea- 
sure-grounds, I  refer  you  for  general  information  on  these  subjects 
to  page  74,  &c.,  which  though  given  in  a  month  not  favorable  for 
such  work,  in  the  middle  or  eastern  States,  I  considered  it  a  period 
in  which  there  would  be  leisure  time  for  contemplating  the  designs 
and  making  preparations  for  the  carrying  of  them  into  execution  on 
the  opening  of  spring. 

All  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  planted  as 
soon  in  this  month  as  they  shall  have  shed  their  leaves ;  the  ever- 


5tO  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN.  [OCT. 

green  kinds  may  be  planted  towards  the  latter  end  thereof,  always, 
but  particularly  for  the  latter,  making  choice  of  moist  or  cloudy 
weather,  if  such  should  occur  in  due  season. 

In  this  place  I  think  it  proper  to  remark,  that  I  always  have  had 
better  success  in  the  planting  of  evergreens  in  general,  when  done 
in  the  spring  of  the  year  immediately  before  their  vegetation  com- 
menced, than  at  any  other  season. 

The  early  part  of  next  month  will  be  an  excellent  time  to  plant 
all  kinds  of  deciduous  forest-trees  and  flowering  shrubs,  &c.  that 
shall  not  have  shed  their  foliage  before  that  time. 

For  general  directions  respecting  the  best  methods  of  planting 
trees  and  shrubs  of  every  kind  see  page  315. 


PROPAGATE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

„• 

Various  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  growing  in  the  pleasure  ground, 
borders,  &c.  may  now  be  propagated  by  suckers,  layers,  and  cuttings; 
but  having  described  the  methods  of  doing  this  in  the  nursery  for 
March,  a  repetition  is  unnecessary  in  this  place. 

PLANTING  BOX  AND  OTHER  EDGINGS. 

Box  edgings  may  be  planted  any  time  this  month  with  good  suc- 
cess, if  some  care  be  taken  to  give  them  shade  and  water  for  about 
a  month  :  for  the  method  see  page  316.* 

Many  other  kinds  may  now  be  planted  for  edgings,  but  particu- 
larly those  mentioned  on  page  369,  which  see. 


PLANT  HEDGES. 

This  is  a  fine  season  to  plant  all  sorts  of  live  hedges,  whether  for 
fences,  shade,  or  ornament;  especially  ground  hedges,  or  such  as 
are  to  be  established  on  the  plain  surface  of  the  earth;  but  having 
treated  on  this  subject  at  full  length,  in  the  Nursery  for  March,  be- 
ginning at  page  271,  to  which  I  refer  you,  it  is  unnecessary  to  repeat 
here  what  has  been  said  before. 

It  may,  however,  be  proper  to  observe,  that  evergreen  hedges  are, 
generally,  more  successful  when  planted  in  spring  than  at  this  sea- 
son; notwithstanding,  in  cases  of  necessity,  I  would  not  hesitate  to 
plant  them  now. 

CLIPPING  HEDGES  AND  EDGINGS. 

If  any  hedges  or  box  edgings  want  trimming,  let  them  be  clipped 
early  in  this  month,  observing  the  directions  given  on  page  525. 

Be  very  particular  to  finish  the  clipping  of  evergreen  hedges  as 
early  in  the  month  as  possible,  for  if  cut  too  late  the  cold  will  occa- 
sion the  cut  leaves,  and  others  suddenly  exposed  thereto,  to  change 

*  If  box  edging  is  planted  at  this  time  in  the  northern  States  it  will 
need  covering  during  the  first  winter  to  prevent  the  lifting  by  frost. 


OCT.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  511 

to  a  rusty  disagreeable  color,  which  they  will  not  recover  before 
the  ensuing  spring. 

ORDINARY  WORK. 

Mow  grass-walks  and  lawns  close  and  even,  and  roll  them,  in 
order  that  they  should  appear  neat  all  winter;  clean  and  roll  your 
gravel-walks  once  a  week;  hoe,  weed,  cut,  rake,  and  carry  away 
clean  off  the  ground,  all  weeds,  decayed  flower-stems,  fallen  leaves, 
&c. ;  prepare  ground  by  trenching,  laying  it  up  in  ridges,  &c.  for 
spring  planting,  which  will  be  of  considerable  advantage  both  in  me- 
liorating the  ground  and  expediting  your  business  at  that  season. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

Having  in  the  preceding  month,  page  527,  intimated  the  proper 
time  for  taking  in  the  green-house  plants,  in  the  eastern  States,  I 
shall  now  notice  the  period  for  doing  that  business  in  the  middle 
States.  In  the  southern  States,  the  plants  may  be  left  out  a  few 
days  later  than  hereafter  mentioned,  say  from  four  to  ten,  according 
to  climate,  season,  and  local  situation. 

About  the  first  day  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  take  into 
the  green-house  all  the  more  hardy  species  of  cactuses,  aloes,  me- 
sembryanthemums,  sedums,  stapelias,  agaves,  cotyledons,  cycas  revo- 
luta,  and  other  succulent  and  tender  plants;  place  them  in  front 
where  they  can  have  plenty  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and  give  them 
water  but  sparingly. 

Let  it  be  observed  for  the  benefit  and  encouragement  of  those  who 
have  no  hot-houses,  that  although  all  the  above  genera  or  families 
are  commonly  considered  as  hot-house  plants,  the  far  greater  number 
of  species  thereunto  belonging,  may  be  preserved  in  excellent  per- 
fection in  a  good  green-house,  and  also  many  other  plants  hitherto 
considered  as  too  tender  to  be  preserved  therein :  experience  is  the 
true  criterion,  and  where  there  are  duplicates  of  doubtful  plants,  an 
ingenious  gardener  will  make  an  experiment  with  one  of  each.  Seve- 
ral kinds  of  plants  commonly  kept  in  hot-houses,  would  thrive  much 
better  in  a  well  constructed  green-house,  if  kept  comparatively  drier 
at  the  roots  during  winter. 

Between  the  sixth  and  tenth  of  this  month,  according  to  the  sea- 
son, situation,  and  shelter  of  the  place,  you  should  take  in  your 
orange,  lemon,  citron,  lime  and  shaddock-trees,  and  also  your  gera- 
niums, and  every  other  sort  of  plant  that  slight  frosts  could  injure 
or  discolor  the  leaves  thereof.  Myrtles  and  the  more  hardy  kinds 
will  not  be  in  much  danger  before  the  middle  of  the  month,  nor  will 
the  hardiest  sorts,  such  as  prunus  luscitanica,  or  Portugal  laurel, 
prunus  lauro-cerasus,  or  Levant  laurel,  viburnum  tinus,  or  laurustinus, 
arbutus  unedo,  or  strawberry-tree,  lagerstroemiaindica,  daphne  odora, 
fuchsia  coccinea,  cupressus  sempervirens,  hydrangea  hortensis,  &c., 


512  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [OCT. 

before  the  twentieth  or  twenty-fifth  thereof:  indeed  in  warm  soils 
and  situations,  most  of  these  would  bear  the  winters  of  the  middle 
States,  in  the  open  ground,  if  sheltered  with  mats  or  straw,  &c.* 

Before  they  are  taken  in,  pick  off  all  decayed  leaves,  prune  any 
decayed,  ill-formed,  disorderly,  or  irregular  shoots  or  branches,  and 
stir  the  earth  a  little  in  the  tops  of  the  tubs  or  pots.  Such  as  ap- 
pear weakly,  should  have  some  of  the  old  earth  taken  out  and  the 
vacancy  filled  up  with  fresh  compost. 

In  placing  the  plants  in  the  green-house,  be  particular  to  arrange 
them  in  regular  order,  the  tallest  behind,  and  the  others  according 
to  their  height,  in  regular  gradation  down  to  the  lowest  in  front,  be- 
ing careful  to  dispose  the  different  sorts  in  such  varied  order  as  that 
the  foliage  may  effect  a  striking  contrast  and  variety,  by  intermixing 
the  broad  and  narrow  leaved,  the  simple  and  compound  leaved,  the 
light  and  dark  green,  the  silvery,  &c.,  in  order  that  the  whole  col- 
lection may  exhibit  a  conspicuous  and  agreeable  diversity. 

When  all  are  thus  arranged  give  their  heads  a  good  watering, 
which  will  wash  off  any  dust  they  have  contracted,  refresh  them  con- 
siderably, and  add  lustre  and  beauty  to  their  foliage  ;  then  wash  clean 
and  wipe  dry  all  the  stage,  benches,  floor,  &c.,  after  which  the  whole 
will  assume  a  neat,  gay,  lively,  and  becoming  appearance. 

The  plants  now  should  have  as  much  free  air  as  possible  during 
the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  for  if  kept  too  close  the  damps 
occasioned  by  a  copious  perspiration  would  cause  many  of  their  leaves 
to  become  mouldy  and  drop  off,  and,  besides,  they  would  be  less 
hardy  on  the  approach  of  winter ;  therefore,  on  every  warm  or  mild 
day  keep  the  windows  open ;  and  even  on  mild  dry  nights,  during 
the  remainder  of  this  month,  you  may  slide  down  the  upper  front 
lights  so  as  to  admit  a  little  air  at  top.  But  observe  to  keep  the 
windows  close  shut  in  cold  weather,  frosty  nights,  and  during  the 
continuance  of  cold  rains  or  fogs. 

It  will  still  be  necessary  to  water  the  plants  frequently  but  mode- 
rately, especially  the  shrubby  kinds ;  the  succulent  sorts  will  not  re- 
quire it  so  often. 

Pick  off,  from  time  to  time,  all  decayed  leaves,  and  keep  every 
part  of  the  house  constantly  clean  and  free  from  filth  of  any  kind. 

The  deciduous  green-house  plants,  such  as  the  lagerstroemia  indica, 
punica  granata,  or  double-flowering  pomegranate,  Croton  sebiferum, 
or  tallow-tree,  &c.,  may  be  placed  on  ^  platform  erected  at  the  back 
of  the  stage,  as  noticed  on  page  103,  or  they  may  be  preserved  very 
well  during  the  winter  in  a  dry  warm  cellar  that  has  windows  to  ad- 
mit light,  air,  &c.,  as  necessity  may  require. 

PRESERVING   GREEN-HOUSE   PLANTS   IN    GARDEN   FRAMES. 

There  are  but  few  green-house  plants  of  a  small  size  but  may  be 

*  It  is  much  the  best  plan  to  keep  camellias,  during  the  summer  months, 
inside  a  well  ventilated  green-house,  as  the  roots  are  often  rotted  by  the 
excessive  rains  of  summer.  A  free  use  of  the  syringe  will  keep  down  in- 
sects. 


OCT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  5T3 

preserved  during  winter,  in  great  perfection,  in  garden  frames  of  the 
following  construction  : — 

The  frame  should  be  erected  on  a  bed  of  earth,  in  a  remarkably 
dry  and  warm  exposure ;  it  should  be  made  of  strong  planks,  four, 
five,  or  six  feet  high  in  the  back  (according  to  the  size  of  the  plants), 
eight  or  nine  inches  high  in  front,  and  four  or  five  feet  wide,  with 
the  ends  sloping  accordingly.  The  length  should  be  in  proportion  to 
the  number  of  plants  you  have  to  winter,  but  at  every  nine  or  ten 
feet  there  should  be  partitions  or  stays  in  the  inside  for  the  support 
of  the  back. 

Around  this  frame  you  are  to  form  another  at  the  distance  of  two 
feet  therefrom,  made  of  any  kind  of  rough  boards,  supported  by 
pots,  and  of  the  same  height.  The  vacancy  between  both  frames  is 
to  be  filled  up  to  the  top  with  tanner's  bark,  dry  litter,  leaves  of 
trees,  or  any  other  substance  that  will  keep  the  frost  from  penetrating 
to  the  plants. 

Your  frame  being  thus  made,  plunge  the  pots  containing  the  plants 
to  their  rims  in  the  inside,  either  in  tan  or  light  sandy  earth,  placing 
the  lowest  in  front  and  the  tallest  behind,  and  cover  the  whole  with 
well  glazed  and  well  fitted  sashes.  During  the  most  severe  winter 
the  generality  of  green-house  plants  may  be  effectually  preserved  in 
this  or  the  like  frame  by  laying  on,  as  occasion  requires,  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  mats  over  the  glasses,  and  over  these  a  covering  of  boards. 

The  plants  are  to  have  light  and  air  given  to  them  at  every  favor- 
able opportunity,  and  should  be  treated,  generally,  as  directed  for 
those  in  the  green-house,  only  kept  drier  at  the  roots. 

Many  other  similar  contrivances  may  be  made,  and  with  the  de- 
sired effect,  as  nothing  more  is  necessary  for  the  preservation  of  these 
plants  than  light,  air,  a  less  share  of  moisture,  and  an  effectual  pro- 
tection from  the  frost. 


THE   HOT-HOUSE. 

PINE- APPLES. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month  the  pine  plants  that  are  to  produce 
fruit  next  season  should  be  removed  out  of  the  nursery  stove,  &c.,  into 
the  fruiting-house ;  but  previous  to  this  you  should  take  out  of  the 
pit  all  the  old  bark,  if  you  use  such  material,  and  fill  it  with  new  fresh 
tan,  previously  prepared,  as  directed  last  month,  page  530 ;  observe 
not  to  put  it  into  the  pit  in  too  wet  a  state,  for  in  that  case  it  would 
be  a  long  time  before  it  would  come  to  a  kindly  heat,  and  sometimes 
not  at  all,  so  as  to  answer  the  end. 

Some  people  sift  the  old  bark,  and  use  the  coarse  part  with  new, 
about  one-half  of  each  j  but  if  you  can  conveniently  procure  a  suffi- 
ciency of  new  tan  to  fill  the  pit  entirely,  it  will  answer  much  better 
for  this  purpose. 

When  the  bed  begins  to  heat,  and  the  warmth  has  reached  the 


574  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [OCT. 

surface,  bring  in  your  fruiting-plants,  and  plunge  them  in  the  bark- 
bed  to  their  rims ;  or  if  you  are  apprehensive  of  the  new  bark  heat- 
ing too  violently  at  first,  plunge  the  pots  only  half-way  for  about  a 
fortnight ;  if,  however,  you  plunge  them  wholly  at  first,  you  must 
examine  the  bed  frequently,  and  if  you  find  the  heat  at  any  time 
violent,  then  draw  the  pots  up  half-way  or  quite  out  of  the  tan,  as 
you  see  convenient,  to  prevent  its  burning  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
and  plunge  them  again  as  soon  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety. 

The  plants  thus  finally  placed  in  the  fruiting-house,  are  to  get  the 
usual  and  necessary  attendance ;  air  must  be  admitted  every  mild 
and  warm  day,  and  gentle  waterings  given  when  necessary. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  the  nights  will  be  growing 
very  cold,  and  sometimes  it  may  be  found  necessary  to  kindle  a  small 
fire  in  the  evening;  but  you  should  never  resort  to  this  while  the  heat 
of  the  house  keeps  up  at  night  to  fifty-two  degrees  of  Fahrenheit, 
which  will  generally  be  the  case  during  the  whole  of  this  month  if 

ou  take  care  to  shut  the  house  in  the  afternoon  when  pretty  warm; 

ut  should  cold,  cloudy  weather  continue  for  a  few  days,  it  may 
render  a  little  fire  necessary  notwithstanding. 

SUCCESSION  PINES. 

The  succession  house  should  now  be  replenished  from  the  pits,  &c., 
with  the  pines  next  in  growth  to  the  fruiting  plants  taken  out  of  it; 
also  the  younger  successions  in  the  next  advancing  stage  should  be 
placed  in  the  pits,  frames,  or  other  winter  departments. 

All  these  will  now  require  to  be  renewed  with  a  proper  quantity 
of  new  tan,  one-half  at  least,  so  as  to  support  a  regular  heat  for  a 
considerable  time  ;  the  whole  of  the  old  tan  must  be  sifted,  and  what 
goes  through  the  screen,  may  be  used  for  covering  beds  wherein  are 
planted  bulbous  roots,  &c.,  to  protect  them  from  frost:  as  much  new 
tan,  previously  made  sufficiently  dry,  must  be  added  to  the  coarse 
part  as  will  fill  up  the  pits  again  a  little  above  the  top,  mixing  both 
well  together  as  you  proceed  in  the  filling.  This  done,  plunge  the 
pots  as  directed  on  other  occasions. 

GENERAL  CARE. 

The  pines  and  all  the  other  exotics  must  have  regular  care  and 
attendance ;  let  water  be  given  once  or  twice  a  week  to  some,  oftener 
to  others,  as  you  see  necessary,  being  careful  not,  to  give  too  much  at 
a  time,  for  that  would  not  only  injure  many  plants,  but  destroy  the 
heat  of  the  bark-bed. 

Admit  fresh  air  into  the  house  every  calm  or  warm  day,  especially 
when  the  sun  shines,  by  sliding  open  some  of  the  glasses  from  nine 
or  ten  o'clock  till  two,  three,  or  four,  always  observing  to  close  the 
house  in  the  afternoon  while  the  air  is  warm,  to  supersede  the  neces- 
sity of  fire  as  long  as  possible ;  and  if  you  must  have  recourse  to 
it  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  use  it  but  moderately  at  this 
season. 

The  advantages  of  keeping  the  house  as  cool  as  may  be  consistent 


OCT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  575 

with  the  safety  of  the  plants,  during  this  and  the  next  month,  are 
very  obvious  ;  all  the  plants  are  gradually  hardened  and  rendered 
thereby  capable  of  bearing  the  vicissitudes  of  the  winter  season 
better  than  if  they  were  drawn  up  tender  and  weakly  by  too  much 
heat;  but  the  pines  in  particular,  if  forced  at  this  season,  would, 
many  of  them,  start  to  fruit  at  an  untimely  period,  which  would  get 
stunted  and  misshapen  before  the  commencement  of  the  free  spring 
vegetation,  and  would  consequently  be  totally  lost,  or  not  worth  their 
room  in  the  house. 

When  the  leaves  of  any  plants  decay,  they  should  be  picked  off, 
and  the  house  kept  constantly  clear  from  fallen  leaves,  cobwebs,  or 
any  other  filth,  which  not  only  renders  the  house  neat,  but  is  very 
necessary  to  preserve  the  plants  in  health. 

WINTERING  HOT-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  GARDEN  FRAMES.  ' 

There  are  few  tropical  plants  but  may  be  preserved  during  winter, 
while  in  a  small  state,  in  garden  frames  well  constructed  and  attended, 
so  that  an  ingenious  and  careful  gardener  may  not  despair  of  preserv- 
ing the  most  rare  plants  in  winter,  without  the  aid  of  a  hot-house ; 
and  even  where  there  is  one,  and  the  stock  of  plants  too  numerous, 
such  auxiliary  convenience  will  be  found  of  considerable  utility. 

A  frame  for  this  purpose  should  be  made  about  nine  or  ten  feet 
long,  four  to  five  wide,  three  and  a  half  high  in  front,  and  five  in  the 
back  part,  with  sashes  well  glazed  and  fitted  as  close  and  neat  as 
possible,  so  as  to  slide  up  and  down  freely.  This  frame  should  be 
placed  in  a  dry  well  sheltered  situation,  exposed  fully  to  the  south, 
and  where  it  can  have  the  benefit  of  the  sun  during  the  whole  day. 
It  should  be  filled  with  fresh  well  prepared  tan,  to  the  depth  of  three 
feet  when  settled,  and  the  pots  plunged  therein  to  their  rims,  the 
smallest  sized  plants  in  front,  the  largest  towards  the  back  part. 

The  frame  should  be  entirely  surrounded  with  a  large  quantity  of 
the  fallen  leaves  of  trees  to  its  full  height,  having  still  more  in  re- 
serve to  add,  as  the  others  sink  and  contract  in  bulk,  in  consequence 
of  fermentation  and  pressure,  always  keeping  them  full  up  to  the  top 
of  the  frame  an  every  side  ;  the  leaves  will  soon  heat  and  cause  the 
tan  to  ferment,  and  between  both  a  fine  glow  of  warmth  will  be  kept 
up  in  the  frame  during  the  whole  winter ;  this,  with  the  assistance 
of  a  suitable  covering  of  mats,  boards,  &c.,  at  night  and  in  severe 
weather,  will  keep  the  most  tender  plants  in  health  and  good  condi- 
tion. 

Linings  of  hot  horse-dung  may  be  substituted  in  place  of  leaves, 
but  the  latter  is  preferable  on  account  of  its  slow,  steady,  and  long 
continued  heat. 


OAK   LEAVES   USED   AS   A    SUBSTITUTE   FOR   TAN. 

As  oak  leaves  abound  in  almost  every  part  of  the  United  States, 
it  is  of  some  importance  to  know  that  they  may  be  used  in  forcing 
pits  of  every  kind,  in  place  of  tanners'  bark,  and  with  advantage, 
their  heat  being  constant,  regular,  and  continuing  for  a  long  time, 


576  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [NOV. 

often  for  an  entire  year }  whereas  bark  generally  turns  cold  soon  after 
its  violent  heat  is  gone  off,  which  obliges  the  gardener  to  fork  it  up 
frequently  in  order  to  revive  the  heat. 

The  sooner  the  leaves  are  raked  up  after  they  fall  from  the  trees 
the  better,  as  the  quality  and  fermenting  substance  will  naturally 
decrease  during  the  time  they  are  exposed  to  the  weather. 

When  raked  up  they  should  be  carried  immediately  into  some  open 
shed,  and  there  thrown  into  a  heap  to  settle  and  ferment.  In  this 
place  tread  them  well,  and  water  them  a  little  if  you  find  they  are 
rather  dry.  The  heap  should  be  at  least  six  or  seven  feet  in  thick- 
ness, and  covered  with  old  mats,  as  well  to  promote  a  general  fer- 
mentation as  to  prevent  the  upper  leaves  from  being  blown  away  by 
the  wind.  They  should  be  suffered  to  remain  in  this  state  for  four 
or  five  weeks,  by  which  time  they  will  be  properly  prepared  for  the 
pits,  and  will  not  settle  down  much  after.  In  putting  them  into  the 
pits,  if  they  appear  dry,  water  them  a  little  and  tread  them  in  layers, 
exceedingly  well,  till  the  pits  are  quite  full :  then  cover  the  whole 
with  tan  to  the  thickness  of  two  inches,  and  tread  it  well  till  the 
surface  becomes  smooth  and  even.  On  this  place  your  pots  of  pines 
or  other  tender  plants  in  the  manner  they  are  to  stand,  filling  up  the 
spaces  between  them  with  tan  as  you  proceed,  row  by  row. 

After  this,  the  leaves  require  no  further  trouble  the  whole  season 
through,  as  they  will  retain  a  constant  and  regular  heat  for  twelve 
months,  without  either  stirring  or  turning. 

Leaves  mixed  with  stable  dung  make  excellent  hot-beds,  which 
preserve  their  heat  much  longer  than  when  made  of  dung  only. 


NOVEMBER. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

As  this  is  a  period  in  which  much  may  be  done  towards  the  lay- 
ing out  and  preparing  of  new  kitchen  gardens  for  the  ensuing  sea- 
son, &c.,  I  refer  you  for  general  instructions  on  that  subject  to  page 
115,  &c. 

SPINAGE,  CORN-SALAD,  AND   WINTER-CRESSES. 

You  should  now  be  very  attentive  to  the  keeping  of  your  winter 
spinage  free  from  weeds,  and  to  the  thinning  of  the  plants  where 
they  stand  too  close ;  otherwise  they  will  not  be  sufficiently  strong 
and  firm  to  endure  the  severity  of  the  approaching  frosts. 

Corn-salad  and  winter-cresses  should  be  treated  as  directed  for 
spinage,  and  for  the  same  reason ;  but  the  distance  of  two  or  three 
inches,  plant  from  plant,  will  be  sufficient  for  these.  This  should  be 
done  early  in  the  month,  for  it  is  not  prudent  either  to  thin  or  weed 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  577 

succulent  plants  of  any  kind  immediately  on  the  eve  of  a  severe 
frost,  as  the  sudden  exposure  of  the  shaded  and  tender  parts  to  it 
would  prove  very  destructive. 

WINTER  DRESSING    OF   ASPARAGUS   BEDS. 

Where  omitted  last  month,  dress  your  asparagus  beds  as  directed 
on  page  542.  Indeed  there  is  no  better  season  than  the  first  or 
second  week  of  this  month  for  that  business. 


LETTUCES. 

The  lettuces  which  were  planted  in  frames  last  month,  should  be 
still  suffered  to  enjoy  the  free  air  every  day  while  the  weather  con- 
tinues mild  and  dry,  by  taking  the  glasses  entirely  off  early  in  the 
morning ;  but  let  them  be  put  on  again  in  the  evening,  or  whenever 
the  weather  becomes  cold  or  wet;  for  if  these  plants  are  kept  too 
close,  they  will  draw  up  and  become  weakly,  tender,  and  of  little 
value. 

When  the  weather  is  very  wet  or  cold,  keep  the  glasses  on,  and 
should  the  frost  set  in  rather  too  severe  towards  the  end  of  the 
month,  you  must  give  the  necessary  covering,  so  as  to  prevent  the 
plants  from  getting  frozen ;  but  be  careful  to  admit  air  to  them  at 
every  favorable  opportunity. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  you  should  plant  into  the  frames, 
if  omitted  in  October,  such  -lettuces  as  are  designed  to  be  wintered 
therein  ;  this  should  on  no  account  be  delayed  to  a  later  period. 

On  the  approach  of  severe  frost  protect  your  lettuces  on  warm 
borders,  &c.,  as  directed  on  page  544. 

N.  B.  Lettuces  make  a  most  delicious  boiled  salad,  which,  in  the 
estimation  of  most  people  who  have  tried  it,  is  much  superior  to 
spin  age.  This  observation  escaped  my  recollection  while  writing  the 
work  of  the  summer  months,  where  it  might  have  been  more  appro- 
priately inserted ;  as  then,  thousands  of  heads  start  to  seed  and  are 
totally  lost,  which  might  be  profitably  used  in  this  way.  They  are 
generally  in  an  excellent  condition  for  this  purpose,  at  any  time  from 
the  period  of  their  having  attained  a  sufficient  size,  till  the  hearts  or 
centre  stems  have  shot  towards  seeding  six  or  eight  inches  high,  so 
that  when  they  are  past  use  for  a  raw  salad,  they  are  yet  good  for  a 
boiled  one. 

SMALL  SALADING. 

Small  salading  of  every  kind  will  now  require  to  be  sown  on  a 
slight  hot-bed,  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  glasses ;  otherwise 
disappointment  will  ensue,  especially  if  the  cold  sets  in  early.  In 
mild  weather  admit  plenty  of  air,  to  give  strength  to  the  plants. 


5?  8  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [NOV. 


GARLIC,  ROCAMBOLE,  AND  SHALLOTS. 

You  may  now  plant  garlic,  rocambole,  and  shallots ;  the  earlier 
in  the  month  that  this  is  done  the  better.  When  planted  at  this 
season  in  dry,  light,  rich  ground,  the  roots  will  be  much  larger  than 
if  deferred  till  spring.  The  bulbs  of  the  common  garlic,  or  Allium 
sativum,  grow  to  a  larger  size  than  those  of  the  rocambole,  or  Allium 
scorodoprasum,  but  some  people  conceive  the  latter  to  be  of  a  better 
flavor. 

The  true  shallot,  or  Allium  ascalonicum,  is  considered  to  possess 
the  most  agreeable  flavor  of  any  of  that  genus,  and  is,  consequently, 
highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

For  the  method  of  planting  each  of  the  above  sorts  see  page  206  ; 
but  in  planting  the  bulbs  produced  on  the  tops  of  the  garlic  and  ro- 
cambole stalks,  observe  to  cover  them  only  about  two  inches  deep,  as 
they  are  not  so  large  or  strong  as  the  cloves  of  the  roots. 

CABBAGE  AND  CAULIFLOWER  PLANTS. 

During  the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  give  your  cabbage  and 
cauliflower  plants  every  advantage  of  free  air,  to  inure  them  by  de- 
grees to  bear  the  cold,  by  taking  the  glasses  off  totally,  in  the  warm 
part  of  the  day ;  but  be  attentive  to  lay  them  on  again  at  night,  and 
in  wet  or  cold  weather.  On  coldish  days,  except  there  is  a  cutting, 
frosty  wind,  you  may  raise  the  glasses,  a  little  behind  for  the  admis- 
sion of  air ;  however,  if  a  severe  frost  should  set  in,  in  the  course  of 
the  month,  you  must  cover  the  beds  carefully  at  night,  and  at  other 
times  when  necessary,  to  protect  the  plants  therefrom.  But  having 
given  general  instructions  for  the  methods  of  treating  cabbage  plants 
on  page  536,  and  cauliflower  plants  on  page  537,  I  now  refer  you 
thereto  for  further  information. 

Observe  that  the  cauliflower  being  much  more  tender  than  the 
cabbage  plants,  will  require  more  care  and  covering  to  protect  them 
from  frost;  and  that  either  will  be  greatly  injured  by  being  de- 
prived of  light  or  air  longer  than  their  safety  or  preservation  re- 
quires. 

PRESERVING  CABBAGES  AND  BORECOLE  FOR  WINTER  AND 
SPRING  USE. 

Immediately  previous  to  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  take  up  your 
cabbages  and  savoys,  observing  to  do  it  on  a  dry  day ;  turn  their  tops 
downward,  and  let  them  remain  so  for  a  few  hours  to  drain  off  any 
water  that  may  be  lodged  between  the  leaves ;  then  make  choice  of 
a  ridge  of  dry  earth,  in  a  well  sheltered,  warm  exposure,  and  plant 
them  down  to  their  heads  therein,  close  to  one  another,  having  pre- 
viously taken  off  some  of  their  loose  hanging  leaves.  Immediately 
erect  over  them  a  low  temporary  shed,  of  any  kind  that  will  keep 
them  perfectly  free  from  wet,  which  is  to  be  open  at  both  ends  to 
admit  a  current  of  air  in  mild,  dry  weather.  These  ends  are  to  be 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  579 

closed  with  straw  when  the  weather  is  very  severe.  In  this  situation 
your  cabbages  will  keep  in  a  high  state  of  preservation  till  spring ; 
for,  being  kept  perfectly  free  from  wet  as  well  as  from  the  action  of 
the  sun,  the  frost  will  have  little  or  no  effect  upon  them.  In  such  a 
place  the  heads  may  be  cut  off  as  wanted,  and,  if  frozen,  soak  them 
in  spring,  well,  or  pump  water  for  a  few  hours  previous  to  their  being 
cooked,  which  will  dissolve  the  frost  and  extract  any  disagreeable 
taste  occasioned  thereby. 

Some  plant  their  cabbages,  after  being  taken  up  and  drained  as 
above,  in  airy  or  well  ventilated  cellars,  in  earth  or  sand  up  to  their 
heads,  where  they  will  keep  tolerably  well ;  but  in  close,  warm,  or 
damp  cellars  they  soon  decay. 

Others  make  a  trench  in  dry  sandy  ground,  and  place  the  cabbages 
therein,  after  being  well  drained  and  dry,  and  most  of  their  outside 
loose  green  leaves  pulled  off,  roots  upward,  the  heads  contiguous  to, 
but  not  touching  each  other ;  they  then  cover  them  with  the  dryest 
earth  or  sand  that  can  be  conveniently  procured,  and  form  a  ridge  of 
earth  over  them  like  the  roof  of  a  house :  some  apply  dry  straw  im- 
mediately around  the  heads ;  but  this  is  a  bad  practice,  as  the  straw 
will  soon  become  damp  and  mouldy,  and  will  of  course  communicate 
the  disorder  to  the  cabbages. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  first  method  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  most  pre- 
ferable, as  there  is  no  way  in  which  cabbages  will  keep  better  if  pre- 
served from  wet;  and,  besides,  they  can  be  conveniently  obtained 
whenever  they  are  wanted  for  use. 

The  green  and  brown  curled  borecole  being  very  hardy,  will  re- 
quire but  little  protection ;  they  may  now  be  taken  up  and  planted 
in  a  ridge  tolerably  close  together,  and  during  severe  frost  covered 
lightly  with  straw  j  this  will  preserve  them  sufficiently,  and  during 
winter  the  heads  may  be  cut  off  as  they  are  wanted  for  use ;  the 
stems,  if  taken  up  and  planted  in  rows,  as  early  in  March  as  the 
weather  will  admit,  will  produce  abundance  of  the  most  delicious 
sprouts. 

In  the  southern  States,  and  even  in  warm  soils  and  exposures  in 
the  middle  States,  borecole  will  stand  the  winter  in  open  beds  with- 
out any  covering  whatever. 

CAULIFLOWERS  AND  BROCCOLI. 

Your  late  cauliflowers  and  broccoli  will  now  be  producing  their 
heads ;  therefore  it  will  be  necessary  to  break  down  some  of  the 
largest  leaves  over  the  flowers  to  preserve  them  from  the  effects  of 
sun,  rain,  and  frost. 

Such  plants  of  either  sort  as  are  not  likely  to  flower  before  the 
commencement  of  severe  frost  should  be  taken  up  and  planted  as 
recommended  in  the  first  instance  for  cabbages,  where,  if  well  pro- 
tected from  wet  and  frost,  they  will  continue  to  produce  fine  flowers 
all  winter. 

Or,  they  may  be  planted  in  a  dry,  warm  cellar,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  directed  for  cabbages,  where  they  will  also  flower  in  winter  : 


580  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [NOV. 

indeed  I  have  had  tolerably  good  flowers  from  strong  plants  hung  up 
in  a  damp,  warm  cellar. 

PRESERVING  TURNIPS,  CARROTS,  PARSNEPS,  BEETS,  SALSAFY,  ETC. 

Previous  to  the  commencement  of  severe  frost  you  should  take  up, 
with  as  little  injury  as  possible,  the  roots  of  your  turnips,  carrots, 
parsneps,  beets,  salsafy,  scorzonera,  Hamburg  or  large  rooted  parsley, 
skirrets,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  turnip- rooted  celery,  and  a  sufficiency 
of  horseradish  for  the  winter  consumption;  cut  off  their  tops  and 
expose  the  roots  for  a  few  hours  till  sufficiently  dry.  On  the  surface 
of  a  very  dry  spot  of  ground,  in  a  well  sheltered  situation,  lay  a 
stratum  of  sand  two  inches  thick,  and  on  this  a  layer  of  roots  of 
either  sort,  covering  them  with  another  layer  of  sand  (the  drier  the 
better),  and  so  continue  layer  about  of  sand  and  roots  till  all  are  laid 
in,  giving  the  whole  on  every  side  a  roof-like  slope ;  then  cover  this 
heap  or  ridge  all  over  with  ajbout  two  inches  of  sand,  over  which  lay 
a  good  coat  of  drawn  straw  up  and  down,  as  if  thatching  a  house,  in 
order  to  carry  off  wet,  and  prevent  its  entering  the  roots ;  then  dig 
a  wide  trench  around  the  heap  and  cover  the  straw  with  the  earth  so 
dug  up  to  a  depth  sufficient  to  preserve  the  roots  effectually  from 
frost.  An  opening  may  be  made  on  the  south  side  of  this  heap,  and 
completely  covered  with  bundles  of  straw,  so  as  to  have  access  to  the 
roots  at  all  times  when  wanted,  either  for  sale  or  use. 

Some  people  lay  straw  or  hay  between  the  layers  of  roots  and  im- 
mediately on  the  top  of  them ;  this  I  do  not  approve  of,  as  the  straw 
or  hay  will  become  damp  and  mouldy,  and  very  often  occasion  the 
roots  to  rot,  while  the  sand  would  preserve  them  sweet  and  sound. 

All  these  roots  may  be  preserved  in  like  manner  in  a  cellar ;  but 
in  such  a  place  they  are  subject  to  vegetate  and  become  stringy 
earlier  in  spring.  The  only  advantage  of  this  method  is,  that  in  the 
cellar  they  may  be  had,  when  wanted,  more  conveniently  during 
winter,  than  out  of  the  field  or  garden  heaps. 

Note. — All  the  above  roots  will  preserve  better  in  sand  than  in 
common  earth,  but  when  the  former  cannot  be  had,  the  sandiest  earth 
you  can  procure  must  be  substituted. 

CELERY,  ENDIVE,  AND  CARDOONS. 

Continue  during  the  early  part  of  this  month  to  blanch  your 
celery,  endive  and  cardoons,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months;  but 
when  the  severe  frosts  approach,  they  must  be  preserved  therefrom, 
either  in  the  following  or  some  other  more  convenient  and  effectual 
manner. 

Every  third  row  of  the  celery  may  be  suffered  to  stand  where  grow- 
ing, opening. a  trench  on  each  side  of  every  standing  row,  within  six 
or  eight  inches  thereof,  for  the  reception  of  the  plants  of  the  other 
two  rows,  which  are  to  be  carefully  taken  up  with  as  little  injury  as 
possible  either  to  their  tops  or  roots,  and  planted  in  those  new 
trenches,  in  the  same  order  as  they  formerly  stood.  The  whole  being 
thus  planted,  three  rows  together,  they  are  to  be  earthed  up  near  the 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  581 

extremities  of  their  leaves',  and  as  soon  as  the  frost  becomes  pretty 
keen,  in  a  very  dry  day  cover  the  whole  with  straw,  and  over  this  a 
good  coat  of  earth. 

When  this  plan  is  intended,  the  celery  should  in  the  first  instance 
be  planted  in  rows,  east  and  west,  so  that  when  the  whole  is  covered 
for  winter  use  as  above,  the  south  side,  especially  if  protected  a  little 
with  straw,  &c.,  may  be  easily  opened  to  take  out  the  plants  when 
wanted  for  use. 

Or,  if  you  have  the  convenience  of  a  deep  garden  frame,  you  may 
almost  fill  it  with  fresh  sand,  and  then  take  up  and  plant  ^herein,  so 
close  as  nearly  to  touch  one  another,  a  quantity  of  your  best  and 
largest  celery,  and  so  deep  as  to  be  covered  within  five  or  six  inches 
of  their  tops ;  place  on  your  glasses  immediately,  and  suffer  neither 
rain  nor  water  to  reach  the  plants,  except  a  very  gentle  shower,  oc- 
casionally, in  warm  weather. 

When  severe  frosts  set  in,  lay  dung,  tan,  leaves  of  trees,  or  other 
litter  around  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  frame,  and  cover  the  glasses 
with  mats,  &c.,  so  as  to  keep  out  the  frost.  By  this  means  you  can 
have  celery  during  winter  in  the  greatest  perfection,  and  as  conve- 
nient as  you  could  desire. 

Or,  celery  may  now  be  taken  up  when  dry,  well  aired,  and  planted 
in  sand  in  a  dry  cellar,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  planting 
it  in  the  frame ;  observing,  in  either  case,  to  lay  up  the  stalks  and 
leaves  neat  and  close,  and  to  do  as  little  injury  to  either  as  possible; 
it  does  not  keep  so  well,  however,  as  by  the  above  method. 

The  beds  of  celery  which  were  planted  as  directed  on  page  461, 
should,  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  be  earthed  up  to  within  six 
or  eight  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  plants,  and  on  the  approach  of  hard 
frost,  additionally  earthed  to  the  very  extremities  of  their  leaves ; 
then  lay  a  covering  of  dry  sandy  earth  on  the  top  of  each  bed,  the 
whole  length,  so  as  to  give  it  a  rounding ;  on  this,  place  a  coat  of 
dry  straw,  drawn  and  laid  on  advantageously  to  cast  off  the  wet,  and 
of  a  sufficient  thickness  to  effectually  resist  the  frost ;  after  which 
cut  a  trench  around  the  bed  to  carry  off  and  prevent  any  lodgement 
of  water.  Here  you  can  have  access  to  your  celery,  and  it  will  con- 
tinue in  a  high  state  of  preservation  during  the  whole  winter  and 
early  spring  months. 

Endive  may  be  preserved  in  a  frame,  or  cellar,  as  directed  for 
celery,  or  as  recommended  on  page  541. 

Cardoons  may  be  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar,  or  by  bank- 
ing up  a  sufficiency  of  earth  to  them  where  they  grow,  and  covering 
the  tops,  &c.  with  straw  or  long  litter. 

N.  B.  All  the  above  work  must  be  performed  in  dry  weather,  and 
when  the  plants  are  perfectly  free  from  wet,  otherwise  they  will  be 
very  subject  to  rot. 

SOWING  RHUBARB,  SEA-KALE,  AND   OTHER   SEEDS. 

You  should  now  sow  the  seeds  of  rhubarb,  sea-kale,  skirrets,  ale- 
sanders,  dill,  and  any  other  kinds  of  seed  that  do  not  vegetate  freely 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [NOV. 

if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring ;  sow  them  as  directed  in  March, 
and  be  not  under  the  least  apprehension  of  the  frost  doing  them  any 
injury. 

MUSHROOMS. 

The  mushroom  beds  must  be  carefully  protected  from  wet  and 
frost,  as  directed  on  page  539,  &c. 

WINTER-DRESSING   OP   ARTICHOKES. 

The  winter  dressing  of  artichokes  is  an  important  operation,  and 
on  it  depends  much  of  their  future  success.  This  should  not  be 
given  them  as  long  as  the  weather  continues  mild,  that  they  may 
have  all  the  advantage  possible  of  growth,  and  be  gradually  inured 
to  the  present  increasing  cold ;  but  it  should  not  be  deferred  till  the 
setting  in  of  hard  frost,  lest  the  entire  work  be  prevented  thereby. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to  the  ground, 
leaving  but  the  small  ones  which  rise  from  the  hearts  of  the  plants ; 
after  this,  line  and  mark  out  a  trench  in  the  middle  between  each 
row,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  wide,  presuming  that  the  rows 
are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed  under  the  article  planting  artichokes, 
on  page  212.  Then  lightly  dig  the  surface  of  the  beds  from  trench 
to  trench,  burying  the  weeds,  and  as  you  proceed,  gather  the  earth 
round  the  crowns  of  the  plants  to  the  height  of  about  six  inches, 
placing  it  in  gently  between  the  young  rising  leaves  without  burying 
them  entirely  under  it ;  this  done,  dig  the  trenches  one  spade  deep, 
and  cast  the  earth  thereof  equally  between  and  on  each  side  the 
plants,  so  as  to  level  the  ridges,  giving  them  at  the  same  time,  a 
neat  rounding  form ;  finish  by  casting  up  with  a  shovel  the  loose 
earth  out  of  the  bottoms  of  the  trenches  evenly  over  the  ridges,  in 
order  that  the  water  occasioned  by  heavy  rains,  &c.,  may  immedi- 
ately run  off:  on  which  account  the  trenches  c^ht  to  have  a  gentle 
declivity,  as  a  lodgement  of  water  about  the  roots  in  winter  is  the 
greatest  evil  and  danger  they  have  to  encounter ;  even  greater  than 
the  most  severe  frost  of  our  climate. 

The  beds  are  to  remain  so  until  there  is  an  appearance  of  hard 
frost,  when  they  should  be  covered  with  light  dry  litter,  straw,  leaves 
of  trees,  fern,  peas-haulm  or  the  like,  the  better  to  preserve  the 
crowns  and  roots  from  its  rigor.  In  this  manner  the  roots  will  re- 
main in  perfect  safety  all  winter,  and  in  March  they  are  to  have  their 
spring  dressing  as  directed  on  page  212. 

When  your  artichoke  plantation  wants  manure,  lay  on  a  coat  of 
old  rotten  dung  previous  to  the  digging  of  the  trenches,  and  cover 
it  over  with  the  earth  as  you  throw  it  up ;  in  the  spring  following 
dig  it  in. 

FORCING  ASPARAGUS. 

This  is  a  very  proper  time  to  begin  to  force  asparagus  in  hot-beds  ; 
for  the  method  see  page  128,  &c. 

You  should  now,  previous  to  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  cover 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  583 

the  asparagus  beds  containing  the  plants  which  you  intend  to  force 
during  the  ensuing  months,  with  as  much  straw,  or  light  litter  of 
some  kind,  as  will  prevent  the  ground  from  becoming  frozen,  so  that 
you  can  take  up  the  roots  with  convenience  and  without  injury  when 
wanted.  This  method  is  preferable  to  taking  them  up  and  deposit- 
ing them  in  a  cellar,  in  sand  or  earth,  which  is  practised  by  some 
gardeners. 

ONIONS. 

The  young  crops  of  Welsh  onion,  or  Allium  fistulosum,  should 
be  kept  free  from  weeds ;  some  may  be  thinned  out  for  use  in  salads, 
&c.,  the  remaining  plants  will  stand  the  winter  even  if  their  foliage 
decay,  and  produce  a  plentiful  supply  early  in  spring. 

Dried  onions  should  be  occasionally  examined,  and  such  as  show 
a  tendency  to  rot  carefully  picked  out. 

PATIENCE  DOCK. 

The  Rumex  patientia,  or  patience  dock,  being  a  plant  that  affords 
an  early  spring  salad  for  boiling,  and  being  perennial  in  root,  is  de- 
serving of  a  place  in  the  garden.  The  leaves  are  very  large,  long 
and  succulent,  and  are  produced  in  great  abundance ;  the  plant  may 
be  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  any  time  this  month  while  the 
ground  continues  open,  and  the  plants  will  rise  freely  in  spring;  or 
you  may  sow  the  seeds  in  March  or  early  in  April,  but  those  sown 
at  this  time  will  make  stronger  and  earlier  plants ;  the  seeds  may  be 
sown  pretty  thick  in  drills  eighteen  inches  asunder,  and  covered 
about  half  an  inch  deep;  when  the  plants  are  about  two  inches  high, 
thin  them  to  the  distance  of  eight  inches  from  one  another,  and  so 
let  them  remain,  always  keeping  them  free  from  weeds.  It  may 
also  be  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  root  taken  off  in  the  spring 
or  late  autumn  months,  and  planted  in  rows  at  the  above  distances, 
and  by  heading  it  down  frequently  during  summer,  as  it  starts  to 
seed,  you  wiU  increase  the  crops  of  foliage. 

DUNG  AND  TRENCH  GROUND. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month,  dung  and  trench  the  ground  that 
is  intended  for  early  crops,  and  lay  it  up  in  high  narrow  sloping 
ridges,  particularly  if  it  be  any  way  stiff,  or  of  a  heavy  nature,  to  re- 
ceive the  benefit  of  the  winter  frosts,  &c.,  which  will  enrich,  mellow, 
refresh,  and  sweeten  it ;  besides,  by  getting  as  much  of  this  work 
performed  now  as  can  be  conveniently  done,  it  will  greatly  forward 
and  assist  your  affairs  in  spring,  when  hurried  by  a  pressure  of  other 
business. 

Should  the  frost  set  in  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  so  aa 
to  bind  up  the  ground,  and  prevent  the  operation  of  trenching,  you 
may  cart  or  wheel  manure  into  the  different  quarters  where  wanted, 
which  will  help  to  forward  your  business  considerably. 


584  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [NOV. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

Transplant  finally  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants,  but  where  the 
winter  frosts  are  rather  severe,  the  latter  will  want  occasional  protec- 
tion of  some  sort ;  plant  early  Mazagan,  Windsor,  and  long-pod  beans, 
and  sow  a  succession  crop  of  early  peas ;  earth  up  your  advancing 
crop  of  the  cabbage  tribe,  celery,  and  cardoons,  blanch  endive,  sow 
spinage,  radish,  lettuce,  and  likewise  small  salading  of  every  kind  on 
warm  borders;  the  latter  will  require  the  protection  of  a  frame  and 
glasses  in  cold  or  frosty  weather. 


THE    FRUIT    GARDEN. 


PLANTING  ESPALIER  AND  WALL  TREES,  ETC. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  plant  apple,  pear,  quince,  plum, 
cherry,  peach,  nectarine,  almond  and  apricot -trees,  either  for  espa- 
liers against  walls,  or  for  half  or  whole  standards ;  observing  that  the 
ground  in  which  you  plant  at  this  season  lies  perfectly  dry  during 
winter.  (For  further  particulars,  see  the  Fruit  Garden  for  last 
month,  page  547,  and  also  page  229.) 

GOOSEBERRIES  AND  CURRANTS. 

This  is  a  very  suitable  and  proper  season  for  the  planting  and 
pruning  of  gooseberries  and  currants ;  but  for  particulars  I  refer  you 
to  pages  548  and  549. 

Cuttings  of  either  kind  may  now  be  planted  as  directed  on  page 
306,  but  they  must  be  stout  and  pretty  long,  so  as  to  be  planted  about 
ten  inches  deep,  or  the  frost  during  winter  will  be  very  apt  to  throw 
them  out  of  the  ground. 

Gooseberry  seed  may  now  be  sown  as  directed  on  page  549,  with 
a  view  to  obtain  new  varieties.  Currants  and  raspberries  may  in 
like  manner  be  raised  from  seed,  and  improved  sorts  obtained  thereby. 

RASPBERRIES. 

As  long  as  the  weather  continues  open  you  may  transplant  and 
make  new  plantations  of  raspberries ;  but  the  earlier  in  the  month 
that  this  can  be  done  the  better,  especially  if  you  have  to  transplant 
the  Antwerp  varieties.  (For  further  information  on  the  subject  of 
planting  and  pruning  raspberries,  see  page  550,  &c.) 

The  red  and  white  Antwerp  kinds  are  excellent  fruit,  and  less 
hardy  than  the  other  varieties ;  consequently,  it  will  be  necessary,  in 
the  eastern  and  middle  States,  to  lay  down  the  young  shoots  of  the 
present  season  immediately  previous  to  the  commencement  of  hard 
frost,  first  cutting  off  close  to  the  ground  the  shoots  which  had  borne 


NOV.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  585 

fruit  the  preceding  summer.  The  supernumerary  weakly  shoots  may 
also  be  cut  off,  and  likewise  the  straggling  tops  of  those  you  intend 
to  lay  down ;  or,  they  may  now  have  a  general  and  final  pruning  as 
directed  on  page  146. 

This  done,  dig  the  earth  between  the  rows,  clearing  out  all  useless 
suckers  and  weeds,  previously  adding  some  very  rotten  manure,  if 
the  ground  seems  to  need  it;  then,  being  provided  with  some  hooked 
wooden  pegs  and  a  number  of  long,  small  hoop-poles,  or  the  like,  lay 
down  each  row  of  shoots  gently  on  one  side,  on  which  lay  the  hoop- 
poles,  lengthwise  the  rows,  pegging  them  down  with  the  hooked 
sticks,  so  as  to  keep  the  shoots  close  to  the  earth ;  after  which  cover 
all  over  with  light  litter,  straw,  hay,  barley  chaff,  fern,  leaves  of  trees, 
or  any  other  light  covering  that  will  protect  the  plants  from  the 
effects  of  the  various  changes  of  the  weather,  which,  and  not  the 
frost  only,  are  the  causes  of  their  destruction.  Here  they  will  re- 
main in  safe  and  good  condition  till  the  beginning  of  March,  when 
the  litter  is  to  be  taken  off,  the  plants  raised  up,  and  the  ground 
receive  its  spring  dressing. 

Some  lay  the  shoots  into,  and  cover  them  with  the  earth ;  but 
although  this  has  a  clean  appearance,  and  sometimes  will  answer  very 
well,  the  buds  will  be  more  liable  to  receive  injury  in  this  way  than 
when  covered  with  light  litter  as  above. 

FIG-TREES. 

The  more  tender  kinds  of  fig-trees  which  are  planted  against  walls 
or  board  fences,  should  now  be  gone  over,  and  all  fruit  found  there- 
on, whether  ripe  or  unripe,  picked  off;  for  these  would  rot  in  winter, 
and  injure  the  young  branches  intended  for  next  year's  bearing. 

At  the  same  time  nail  up  close  to  the  wall  or  fence,  all  the  princi- 
pal shoots,  the  better  to  secure  them  from  the  frost  and  power  of  the 
wind ;  and  if  bass  mats  are  likewise  nailed  up  so  as  to  cover  the 
trees,  an  important  protection  will  be  afforded  thereby  to  the  young 
shoots.  As  to  pruning,  that  should  not  be  done  either  in  the  middle 
or  eastern  States  till  March.  *  (See  page  225.) 

Fig-trees,  growing  in  the  espalier  way,  may  also  be  protected  from 
frost  by  laying  bass-mats  over  them  and  making  them  fast,  or  by 
laying  boughs  of  pine  or  cedar  up  to  them.  It  would  also  be  pro- 
per, in  a  severe  season,  to  lay  some  long  litter  around  the  roots  of  the 
trees. 


PRUNING   OF   FRUIT-TREES. 

Having  in  the  Fruit  Garden  for  October  expressed  my  opinion 
respecting  the  pruning  of  fruit-trees  at  this  season,  it  is  unnecessary 
to  repeat  it  in  this  place.  (See  page  547.) 


586  -  THE  ORCHARD. — THE  VINEYARD.  [NOV. 


THE   ORCHARD. 

PLANTING,  ETC. 

This  being  an  eligible  period  for  the  planting  of  orchards  on  dry 
ground,  and  indeed  they  never  should  be  planted  on  a  cold,  wet,  or 
swampy  soil,  I  refer  you  to  the  article  Orchard  in  March,  where 
you  will  find  ample  instructions  respecting  the  extent,  aspect,  situa- 
tion and  soil,  the  preparation  of  the  ground,  the  choice  of  trees  and 
method  of  planting,  &c.,  all  of  which  are  equally  applicable  in  this 
month  as  in  that,  and  a  reference  thereto  will,  at  present,  supersede 
the  necessity  of  a  repetition. 

Apples,  pears,  quinces,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  nectarines,  apri- 
cots, and  almonds  may  now  be  planted ;  also,  walnuts,  chestnuts,  fil- 
berts, persimmons,  berberries,  medlars,  and  every  other  kind  of  hardy 
fruit-trees,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  March. 

PRUNING. 

As  you  may  now  commence  the  pruning  of  apple  and  pear-trees, 
&c.,  I  would  strongly  recommend  to  your  perusal  at  this  time,  the 
entire  of  the  article  Orchard  in  January,  beginning  at  page  56,  and 
also  the  same  article  in  February,  page  149,  &c. 

Old  fruit-trees  having  scaly,  rough  bark,  should  in  this  month,  if 
not  done  in  the  former,  be  brushed  over  with  a  mixture  of  cow-dung 
and  urine,  as  directed  on  page  553. 


THE    VINEYARD. 


PRUNING   OP   VINES. 

The  pruning  of  grape-vines  at  this  season,  will  answer  extremely 
well  in  the  southern  States,  and  ought  to  be  duly  attended  to ;  but 
the  severity  of  the  frosts  in  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  renders 
it  more  prudent  to  defer  this  work  to  the  latter  end  of  February,  or 
if  the  season  proves  late,  the  first  week  in  March ;  but  upon  no  ac- 
count should  you  delay  it  longer  :  indeed,  upon  the  whole,  the  late 
February  pruning  will  be  the  safest.  In  the  city  and  neighborhood 
of  Philadelphia,  vines  that  were  pruned  on  the  first  and  second  days 
of  March,  1805,  wept  copiously  a  few  days  after,  but  some  cold 
weather  ensuing,  they  stopped  bleeding ;  this  shows  the  necessity  of 
pruning  in  February,  especially  in  warm  situations  or  exposures. 

Those  who  prefer  pruning  their  vines  at  this  time,  as  well  as  those 
who  from  the  temperateness  of  their  climate  ought  to  do  it,  will  find 
the  necessary  instructions  on  page  155,  &c. 


NOV.]  THE  NURSERY.  581 


WINTER   DRESSING   OF   VINES. 

You  should  now  plough  between  the  rows  of  vines  in  your  vine- 
yard where  practicable,  having  first  tied  up  all  the  trailing  runners 
to  the  stakes ;  observing  to  lay  up  the  earth  as  much  as  possible  to 
the  stems  of  the  vines  :  to  effect  this  the  better,  the  ground  must  be 
cross-ploughed.  The  one  and  two  year  old  plants  will  particularly 
require  this  earthing ;  and  after  the  ploughing  is  finished,  the  earth 
should  be  drawn  up  around  them  with  a  hoe,  the  better  to  preserve 
the  lower  parts  of  the  stems  with  the  buds  from  alternate  freezing 
and  thawing,  which  is  much  more  injurious  to  them  than  a  continued 
frost.  In  this  state  they  are  to  remain  till  the  proper  time  for 
pruning  in  spring,  when  the  earth  is  to  be  drawn  from  around  them, 
and  the  plants  dressed  as  directed  on  page  156. 

"When  the  ground  does  not  admit  of  this  culture  with  the  plough, 
it  should  be  given  with  the  spade  and  hoe,  as  it  is  of  considerable 
importance,  not  only  to  protect  the  plants,  but  to  destroy  weeds,  and 
ameliorate  the  soil,  by  throwing  it  up  loosely  to  the  influence  of  the 
frost  and  weather.  A  dressing  of  manure,  where  wanted,  should  be 
given  previous  to  the  ploughing,  &c. 

This  is  a  very  proper  period  to  manure,  trench,  or  plough  the 
ground  which  you  intend  to  plant  with  grape-vines  next  spring,  as 
observed  on  page  253,  leaving  it  as  rough  and  high  as  possible. 

In  the  southern  States,  vineyards  may  now  be  planted,  vines 
pruned  and  propagated  by  layers  and  cuttings,  and  everything  also 
done  in  that  way,  as  directed  in  March  for  the  middle  and  eastern 
States. 


THE    NURSERY. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

All  the  principal  nursery  transplanting  should  be  finished  as  early 
in  this  month  as  possible,  in  order  that  the  plants  may  have  time 
to  push  out  new  fibres  before  the  frosts  set  in ;  for  when  planted  at 
a  late  period,  they  seldom  put  out  fibres  before  spring,  and  have  to 
live  principally  on  their  own  substance  during  winter,  which  greatly 
weakens  them.  However,  where  that  cannot  be  conveniently  done, 
and  that  necessity  requires  it,  you  may  continue  to  transplant  all 
kinds  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs  while  the  ground  continues  open. 

PROTECTING  SEEDLINGS  AND  TENDER  PLANTS. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  month  you  should  sift  some  dry,  fresh 
earth  over  the  seedling  pines,  arising  from  the  seed  sown  last  spring, 
so  as  to  nearly  reach  the  foliage,  in  order  to  protect  their  yet  tender 
stems  from  the  inclemency  of  the  approaching  season ;  and  imme- 


588  THE  NURSERY.  [NOV. 

diately  on  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  spread  some  dry  straw,  fern, 
leaves  of  trees,  or  other  light  covering,  thinly  over  the  beds,  to  afford 
additional  protection,  and  in  some  measure  to  prevent  the  frost  from 
entering  the  ground  as  deep  as  it  otherwise  might;  for,  without  the 
above  care,  many  of  the  plants  would  be  spewed  up  by  the  frost,  and 
most  of  them  be  destroyed  by  the  dry  parching  winds  of  the  ensuing 
spring.  Observe  that  the  covering  must  be  light,  or  that  it  be  sup- 
ported above  the  plants  by  some  means,  or  a  serious  injury  may 
accrue  by  its  rotting  the  foliage,  &c.  The  branches  of  common 
cedar  are  good  for  this  purpose. 

The  top  covering  is  not  necessary  except  when  the  winter  frosts 
are  severe :  but  sifting  earth  between  and  among  the  plants,  so  as 
nearly  to  come  up  to  the  leaves,  will  be  of  use  in  every  climate  and 
country ;  and  not  only  to  pine  and  fir  seedlings,  but  to  every  other 
sort  that  are  subject  from  their  diminutive  first  year's  growth  to  be 
thrown  out- of  the  earth  by  frost,  or  injured  by  drought. 

Any  kind  of  seedlings  that  are  rather  tender  should  have  hoop 
arches  made  over  the  beds,  and  on  the  approach  of  severe  frosts, 
thick  mats,  &c.  laid  on  these  for  the  protection  of  the  plants. 

All  hardy  plants  in  pots  should  now  be  removed  to  where  they 
can  have  sufficient  protection  in  severe  weather ;  for  if  left  fully  ex- 
posed to  the  frost,  the  plants  will  not  only  be  injured,  but  the  pots 
burst  by  the  expansion  of  the  earth  and  water. 

Pots  containing  tolerably  large  and  hardy  exotic  plants  may  be 
plunged  to  their  rims  in  a  warm  border,  and  covered  six  or  eight 
inches  deep  over  their  edges  with  tanners'  bark,  leaves  of  trees, 
long  litter,  &c.,  which  will  considerably  preserve  the  roots  of  the 
plants.  But  the.  more  curious  kinds  of  hardy  evergreens  and  other 
plants  in  pots  should  now  be  removed  into  the  green-house,  or  into 
garden-frames  with  glasses  and  other  covering,  the  more  effectually 
to  protect  them. 


DIGGING  BETWEEN  THE  NURSERY  ROWS. 

You  should  now  continue  to  dig  the  ground  between  all  such  trees 
and  shrubs  as  are  to  remain  another  year  in  the  nursery  rows ;  this 
will  destroy  the  weeds,  improve  the  plants,  and  add  neatness  to  the 
whole  during  winter  and  spring. 


ETC. 

Stake  and  tie  up  all  new  planted  trees  that  are  in  open  exposures, 
in  order  to  prevent  their  being  rocked  about  by  the  winds,  than 
which  there  is  nothing  more  injurious  to  them. 

Lay  light  litter  of  some  kind,  a  good  thickness,  over  the  roots  of 
the  more  tender  and  choice  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  to  protect 
them  from  frost;  this  will  be  of  considerable  service,  and  encourage 
them  to  shoot  vigorously  in  spring. 


NOV.]  THE  PLEASURE,  OE  FLOWER  GARDEN.  589 


PRUNING  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

You  may  now  reduce  to  proper  form  any  hardy  forest  or  orna- 
mental trees,  flowering  shrubs,  &c.,  cutting  out  any  disorderly  or 
straggling  branches,  and  trimming  up  the  stems  of  such  as  require 
it.  But  the  more  tender  sorts  should  not  be  pruned  till  spring. 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  MAKING  NEW  PLANTATIONS. 

Continue  to  dig  and  trench  the  ground,  or  to  plough  it  extremely 
deep,  where  you  intend  making  new  plantations  in  spring,  by  which 
it  will  be  greatly  improved,  and  your  business  thus  forwarded. 

Where  dung  is  wanted,  it  should  be  given  previous  to  the  digging, 
&c.,  and  advantage  ought  to  be  taken  of  dry  weather  to  carry  it  in 
and  spread  it  on  the  ground.  It  will  be  much  better  to  give  it  at 
this  season  than  immediately  before  planting,  as  it  will  have  more 
time  to  incorporate  with  the  earth,  and  to  be  deprived  of  its  rancid 
qualities. 


THE  PLEASURE,   OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


PROTECTING  TULIP,  HYACINTH,  ANEMONE,  AND  RANUNCULUS 
ROOTS. 

As  it  is  not  unfrequent  in  the  eastern  and  middle  States  for  hard 
frost  to  set  in  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  should  pre- 
vious thereto,  lay  a  good  lining  of  fresh  tanners'  bark,  horse-dung, 
leaves  of  trees,  or  dry  straw,  around  the  outsides  of  the  beds  contain- 
ing your  choice  hyacinths,  anemones  and  ranunculuses;  this  should 
be  quite  as  high  as  the  upper  parts  of  the  surrounding  frames,  and 
of  a  sufficient  body  to  keep  the  frost  effectually  from  penetrating  in 
at  the  sides,  &c.  Tulips  will  only  require  to  lay  a  light  covering  of 
any  kind  over  and  around  the  beds,  such  as  straw,  fern,  leaves,  &c., 
for  although  the  frost  will  not  kill  the  roots,  yet  by  slightly  protect- 
ing them  therefrom  the  flowers  will  blow  much  stronger  and  more 
perfect,  than  they  otherwise  would. 

Hyacinths,  though  very  hardy,  will  also  be  greatly  improved  in 
their  flowers  by  protecting  the  bulbs  in  winter  from  severe  frosts, 
which  may  be  effected  by  laying  boards  and  mats  over  the  frames  in 
which  the  finest  sorts  are  planted;  but  these  should  be  taken  off  every 
mild  day,  or  when  the  sun  is  so  powerful  as  to  prevent  an  accumu- 
lation of  frost  in  the  beds.  The  less  valuable  and  common  sorts  may 
be  protected  as  directed  for  tulips ;  any  kind  of  light  covering  will 
be  of  use,  and  indeed  they  often  flower  very  well  without  it. 

Two  inches  deep  of  one  or  two  years  old  tanners'  bark,  if  laid  over 
your  beds  of  tulips,  hyacinths,  polyanthus-narcissuses,  &c.,  in  the 
open  ground,  will  afford  the  roots  considerable  protection;  but  be 


590  THE  PLEASURE,  OB  [NOV. 

cautious  not  to  use  for  this  purpose  new  or  fresh  tan  from  the  vats,  as 
the  astringent  juice  thereof  would  work  down  to  the  roots,  and  do 
them  much  more  injury  than  the  entire  omission  of  covering,  or  of 
affording  them  any  manner  of  protection. 

Ranunculuses  and  anemones  being  much  more  tender  than  tulips 
or  hyacinths,  will  require  in  severe  frostj  a  good  effectual  covering  of 
glasses,  mats,  and  boards ;  or  in  default  of  glasses,  mats  and  boards 
only,  or  any  other  suitable  protection.  This  covering  is  to  be  sup- 
ported by  the  frames  surrounding  the  beds  wherein  the  roots  are 
planted,  and  it  must  be  taken  off  every  mild  day,  while  there  is  no 
danger  of  the  beds  accumulating  frost,  in  order  to  ventilate  and  suffi- 
ciently air  the  plants  that  are  up,  so  that  they  may  neither  be  drawn 
too  much,  the  foliage  turn  yellow,  nor  the  roots  become  mouldy. 
But  particular  care  must  be  taken  to  place  the  covering  on  again,  as 
soon  as  the  day  becomes  cold  and  before  the  beds  begin  to  freeze. 
The  ranunculuses  are  somewhat  more  tender  than  the  anemones,  and 
will  require  a  proportional  protection. 

PLANTING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OP  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  FLOWER- 
ROOTS. 

You  may  still  continue  to  plant  the  various  kinds  of  bulbous  and 
tuberous  flower-roots,  as  directed  on  page  566,  but  the  earlier  in  the 
month  that  you  can  get  this  accomplished  the  better. 

TRANSPLANTING  PERENNIAL  AND  BIENNIAL  FLOWER-ROOTS. 

Where  omitted  in  the  preceding  months,  you  should  as  early  in 
this  as  possible  divide  (where  necessary)  and  transplant  the  various 
kinds  of  hardy  perennial  and  biennial  fibrous-rooted  plants,  agreeably 
to  the  directions  given  on  pages  523  and  567. 

AURICULAS,  POLYANTHUSES,  CARNATIONS,  PRIMROSES,  ETC. 

The  pots  containing  your  choice  auriculas,  polyanthuses,  carnations 
and  double  primroses  should,  immediately  previous  to  the  setting  in 
of  hard  frost,  be  plunged  to  their  rims  close  together  in  a  garden 
frame,  and  there  defended  from  heavy  rains  and  severe  frost  by  put- 
ting on  the  glasses  and  a  suitable  covering  of  mats,  &c.,  occasionally, 
according  to  the  necessity  of  the  case.  But  observe,  that  as  all  these 
kinds  are  of  a  hardy  nature,  they  must  be  fully  exposed  to  the  weather 
every  day  that  is  tolerably  mild  and  dry,  and  even  at  night  until  the 
frost  becomes  rather  rigorous.  However,  it  will  be  proper  to  line 
the  outside  of  the  frame,  as  directed  on  page  589,  for  ranunculuses 
and  anemones,  the  better  to  keep  out  the  most  severe  frosts  of  the 
winter ;  for  when  properly  protected,  and  not  drawn  or  forced  too 
much,  they  always  flower  better  than  when  cut  up  by  severe  weather. 

Where  there  is  not  the  convenience  of  glasses,  mats  and  boards 
may  be  laid  over  the  frame ;  or,  if  no  frame,  the  pots  may  be  plunged 
close  together  in  a  raised  bed  of  dry  soil  or  tan  in  a  warm  situation, 
and  low  arches  made  of  old  cask  hoops,  or  the  like,  erected  over 


FLOWER  GARDEN.  591 

them,  on  which  to  lay  thick  mats  in  wet  or  frosty  weather.  But  in 
February,  and  early  in  March,  while  the  frost  is  in  the  ground,  or 
the  leaves  in  a  frozen  state,  and  especially  if  they  had  been  covered 
with  snow,  you  must  be  particular  not  to  expose  them  to  a  hot  sun, 
which  would  be  almost  certain  death  to  them. 


DOUBLE  DAISIES. 

The  beds  wherein  were  planted  your  double  daisies,  &c.,  as  directed 
in  October,  page  568,  should  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month, 
or  when  the  frost  is  likely  to  become  severe,  be  protected  occasionally 
therefrom  by  a  covering  of  mats,  or  when  very  severe,  boards  and 
mats,  but  let  them  have  the  benefit  of  the  air  as  long  and  as  often  as 
the  weather  is  mild ;  observing  always  to  defend  them  from  heavy 
rains  and  snow,  either  of  which  would  have  a  tendency  to  rot  and 
melt  them  away. 

Daisies  will  survive  the  winter  in  a  warm  border,  covered  with  a 
light  coat  of  clean  straw,  which  should  be  taken  off  and  laid  on  occa- 
sionally in  mild  weather  to  air  and  harden  the  plants ;  but  these 
will  not  blow  as  well  nor  as  early  in  spring  as  those  taken  better 
care  of. 

The  daisies  which  were  potted  in  September  or  October  with  a  view 
to  force  them  in  winter,  should  be  particularly  attended  to  during 
the  whole  of  this  month,  in  order  to  strengthen  and  encourage  their 
growth.  But  if  the  potting  of  them  were  omitted,  it  should  be  done 
in  the  beginning  of  this  month ;  selecting  for  that  purpose  the  largest 
and  best  plants,  and  carefully  removing  them  with  good  balls  of  earth 
round  their  roots. 


PROTECTING  SEEDLING  BULBS. 

You  should  now  plunge  the  pots  or  boxes  in  which  you  sowed  the 
seeds  of  bulbous-rooted  flowering  plants,  and  also  those  containing 
the  one  or  two  year  old  seedling  bulbs,  up  to  their  rims  or  edges  in 
a  raised  bank  of  light,  dry  earth,  or  you  may  set  them  on  the  bank 
and  fill  the  spaces  between  them  with  tanner's  bark,  or  leaves  of 
trees  well  crammed  in ;  then  on  the  approach  of  severe  frosts  cover 
them  all  over  with  dry  straw  or  peas-haulm,  which  is  to  be  taken  off 
occasionally  in  mild  dry  weather,  and  aired,  in  order  to  prevent  its 
getting  mouldy,  and  communicating  the  disorder  to  the  seeds  or  roots. 


STOCKGILLY-FLOWERS  AND  WALL-FLOWERS. 

Your  double  stockgilly-flowers  and  wall-flowers  in  pots  should  now 
be  either  taken  into  the  green-house  or  warm  close  rooms,  or  plunged 
to  their  rims  in  a  dry,  warm  exposure,  surrounded  with  a  deep  garden 
frame,  where  they  may  be  protected  during  winter.  These  plants 
being  tolerably  hardy,  will  keep  well  by  a  very  slight  protection  of 
boards  and  mats,  or  boards  covered  with  straw  or  other  litter  when 
the  frost  is  severe:  they  will  seldom  be  injured  before  February,  but 
a  warm  sun  about  the  end  of  that  month,  if  suffered  to  shine  on 


592  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [NOV. 

them  whilst  the  leaves  or  stems  are  in  a  frozen  state,  would  totally 
destroy  them. 

It  would  be  of  additional  advantage  to  lay  three  or  four  inches  of 
old  tanners'  bark  over  the  surface  of  the  pots,  the  better  to  preserve 
the  roots  from  the  frost.  The  plants  must  be  aired  occasionally  in 
mild  weather,  for  if  kept  too  closely  covered  they  would  become 
blanched,  weak  and  tender,  and  lose  their  robust  growth,  so  necessary 
to  a  good  bloom  of  flowers. 

PLANTING  BULBOUS  ROOTS  IN  POTS  AND  GLASSES. 

You  may  continue  to  plant  the  various  kinds  of  early  flowering 
bulbs  in  pots,  as  directed  on  page  566,  but  the  earlier  in  the  month 
that  this  is  done  the  sooner  you  may  expect  them  to  flower.  The 
pots  are  then  to  be  placed  either  in  a  warm  room,  where  there  is 
plenty  of  light,  or  in  garden  frames,  and  treated  as  directed  last 
month.  Some  of  them  may  be  immediately  placed  in  the  hot-house, 
or  in  a  forcing  frame,  to  be  forced  into  an  early  bloom  for  the  decora- 
tion of  rooms,  windows,  &c.,  and  others  placed  in  the  green-house  for 
a  succession. 

The  early  part  of  this  month  is  still  a  very  proper  time  to  set  the 
bulbs  of  early  tulips,  hyacinths,  polyanthus-narcissuses,  jonquils, 
dwarf  Persian  iris,  &c.,  in  bulb-glasses  filled  with  water,  which  should 
never  be  suffered  to  come  higher  around  the  roots  than  about  the 
eighth  of  an  inch,  replenishing  the  water  occasionally  as  it  evapo- 
rates, so  that  it  may  just  touch  the  bottom  of  the  bulbs.  Some  of 
the  glasses  may  be  immediately  placed  in  the  hot-house  for  an  early 
bloom,  the  others  to  be  treated  as  directed  on  page  568. 

TAKING  UP  AND  PRESERVING  THE  ROOTS  OP  TUBEROSES,  AND 
SCARLET  AMARYLLISES,  ETC. 

As  soon  in  this  month  as  you  observe  the  frost  to  injure  the  foliage 
of  your  tuberoses  and  jacobsea  lilies  or  scarlet  amaryllises  and  other 
very  tender  bulbs,  which  generally  lie  dormant  in  winter,  take  up  the 
roots  and  spread  them  in  a  warm  room,  where  they  will  be  perfectly 
secure  from  frost — if  in  a  stove-room  the  better ;  in  the  course  of  eight 
or  ten  days,  divest  them  of  the  decayed  foliage  and  root  fibres,  and 
continue  them  spread  as  before  till  well  dried,  always  taking  care  to 
preserve  them  from  frost ;  when  sufficiently  dry  pack  them  up  in 
small  boxes,  in  very  dry  sawdust,  chaff,  dry  moss,  or  the  like,  and 
then  place  the  boxes  in  some  very  warm  room  to  remain  during 
winter,  where  they  can  be  effectually  secure  from  frost,  the  least 
touch  of  which  would  totally  destroy  the  roots. 

DRESSING  THE  BEDS  AND  BORDERS,  ETC. 

The  beds  of  young  succession  or  other  flower-bulbs  which  were  not 
disturbed  in  the  present  year,  should  now  be  carefully  weeded,  raked 
over,  and  if  any  moss  appears  thereon,  it  ought  to  be  picked  off; 
after  which  lay  an  inch  or  two,  as  may  be  deemed  necessary,  of  good 


NOV.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  593 

light  compost  all  over  the  beds — this  will  assist  in  defending  the  roots 
from  frost,  and  add  much  to  their  health  and  vigor  in  the  ensuing 
spring. 

Clear  the  beds,  borders,  and  other  compartments  from  fallen  leaves 
of  trees,  and  the  dead  stalks  of  annual  and  other  plants ;  pulling  up 
the  annuals  by  the  roots,  as  they  never  flower  again,  and  cutting 
down  the  decayed  perennials  to  the  ground.  After  this,  hoe  and 
clear  the  ground  from  all  manner  of  weeds,  and  where  there  are  no 
bulbs  planted,  slightly  dig  the  ground  without  injuring  any  plants 
growing  therein,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth  and  even.  This  will 
prepare  the  borders,  &c.,  for  the  reception  of  other  plants,  and  give 
a  neat  and  becoming  appearance  to  the  whole  during  winter. 

Dig  and  neatly  rake  all  the  shrubbery  compartments,  especially 
those  contiguous  to  the  principal  walks,  excepting  such  as  are  laid 
down  with  grass,  or  wilderness  plantations — this  will  destroy  weeds, 
enliven  the  prospect,  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  shrubs. 

PLANTING  FOREST-TREES  AND  ORNAMENTAL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

All  kinds  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs,  especially  the  deciduous 
sorts,  may  be  planted  in  dry  soil  any  time  this  month  while  the 
weather  continues  mild,  but  the  earlier  in  it  that  this  is  done  the 
better.  For  an  account  of  the  sorts,  see  page  314;  for  designs  in 
ornamental  planting,  see  page  74,  &o.,  and  for  the  method  of  plant- 
ing, see  page  314,  &c. 


TRANSPLANTING  LARGE  TREES,  ETC. 

It  frequently  happens  that  people  are  desirous  of  removing  large 
favorite  trees  or  shrubs  from  one  place  to  another,  and  as  this  is  the 
best  time  to  prepare  for  that  business,  I  refer  you  for  the  necessary 
information  to  page  241,  &c. 

PRUNE  FLOWERING- SHRUBS,  ETC. 

You  may  now  prune  and  reduce  into  due  form  any  hardy  flower- 
ing-shrubs and  forest-trees,  whether  evergreen  or  deciduous ;  but  the 
more  tender  sorts  ought  not  to  be  pruned  till  spring.  For  the  method 
of  doing  which,  see  page  172. 

PLANTING  AND  PLASHING  HEDGES. 

Ground  hedges  of  hawthorn,  beech,  hornbean,  honey-locust,  or  any 
other  hardy  kinds  of  deciduous  plants,  may  be  made  any  time  in  this 
month  while  the  weather  continues  open.  For  ample  instructions  on 
this  subject,  see  page  270,  &c. 

Old  hedges  which  are  overgrown  and  thin,  may  now  be  plashed  or 
cut  down,  as  directed  on  page  279. 


38 


594  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [NOV. 


ORDINARY  WORK. 

Rake  and  carry  away  out  of  the  walks,  borders,  and  lawns,  the 
fallen  leaves  of  trees  and  other  rubbish ;  stake  and  tie  up  any  large 
new  planted  trees,  to  prevent  their  being  rocked  about  by  the  wind, 
and  lay  mulch,  long  litter,  or  leaves,  around  the  roots  of  such  as  are 
rather  tender,  to  protect  them  from  frost. 

Place  small  stakes  and  bass-mats,  or  evergreen  branches,  bound 
around  such  plants  of  the  hydrangea  hortensis,  prunus  lauro-cerasus, 
China  and  Otaheite  roses,  &c.,  as  you  have  planted  out  in  warm, 
well-sheltered  borders.  Many  plants  that  are  commonly  kept  in 
green-houses  would  abide  during  winter  in  the  open  ground  if  thus 
protected ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  till  the  keen  frosts  are  just 
commencing. 

Dress  gravel-walks,  and  mow  grass-walks  and  lawns,  after  which 
roll  them  with  a  heavy  roller,  which  will  render  the  surface  firm, 
smooth,  and  neat  during  winter.  Observe  to  do  this  work  in  dry 
open  weather.  Some  people  break  up  their  gravel  walks  at  this 
season,  and  throw  them  in  ridges  to  lie  so  all  winter,  under  an  idea 
of  destroying  weeds,  &c. ;  but  as  this  renders  walks  unserviceable  at 
a  time  when  a  foot  can  scarcely  be  set  with  pleasure  on  any  other 
part  of  the  ground,  and  that  a  turning  in  spring  would  answer  the 
end  proposed,  this  practice  ought  to  be  abandoned. 

Lay  roses  and  other  shrubs  for  propagation,  and  in  the  early  part 
of  the  month  take  off  well  rooted  layers,  and  dig  up  suckers  of  de- 
sirable kinds,  which  plant  immediately  where  wanted,  or  into  nur- 
sery-rows, to  obtain  age  and  strength. 

Turn  your  compost  heaps  of  every  kind  and  spread  them  so  thin 
that  the  frosts  may  penetrate  to  the  very  bottoms  of  them ;  let  the 
lumps  be  well  broken,  and  all  parts  properly  mixed. 

Provide  materials  and  make  new  composts,  agreeably  to  the  direc- 
tions given  in  the  preceding  part  of  this  work,  in  order  to  have  them 
ready  for  use  in  the  ensuing  year ;  for  the  longer  they  are  in  a  state 
of  preparation,  and  the  more  effectually  incorporated,  the  better  will 
all  sorts  thrive  which  may  be  planted  therein. 


THE    GREEN-HOUSE. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month  all  the  hardy  exotic  plants  which 
have  been  permitted  to  remain  abroad  till  this  time,  but  which  re- 
quire protection  in  winter,  should  be  removed  into  the  green-house, 
or  into  the  other  places  destined  for  their  preservation.  In  the 
middle  States,  the  viburnum  tinus,  hydrangea  hortensis,  prunus 
lauro-cerasus,  magnolia  grandiflora,  China  and  Otaheite  roses,  lager- 
stroemia  indica,  daphne  odora,  aucuba  japonica,  double  flowering 
pomegranate,  double  stocks  and  wall-flowers,  cyclamen,  belladonna 
and  Guernsey  lilies,  with  several  other  shrubby  and  herbaceous 


NOV.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  595 

kinds,  will  seldom  suffer  by  being  left  out  before  the  middle  of  this 
month ;  but  leaving  them  much  longer  unprotected  would  be  impru- 
dent, unless  your  stock  is  so  numerous  that  you  wish  to  try  experi- 
ments on  their  hardness. 

In  mild  weather  your  green-house  plants  should  have  plenty  of 
free  air  admitted  to  them  every  day,  by  opening  the  glasses,  &c., 
always  observing  to  close  the  house  in  due  time  in  the  afternoon, 
and  in  wet  or  frosty  weather;  even  in  very  severe  weather,  you  may 
happen  to  find  an  hour  or  two  in  the  middle  of  the  day  in  which  to 
slide  down  the  upper  lights,  to  admit  fresh  air  and  suffer  the  foul  to 
pass  out ;  this  may  be  often  done  when  it  would  be  quite  imprudent 
to  raise  the  lower  sashes.  But  if  a  very  rigorous  frost  should  set  in 
towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  it  may  be  necessary  to  make  a 
fire  in  the  evening,  to  prevent  its  penetrating  into  the  house ;  how- 
ever, this  should  not  be  resorted  to  while  you  can  keep  out  the  frost 
by  means  of  good  shutters,  or  by  fastening  mats  in  front  of  the 
windows  at  night;  for  too  much  heat  at  any  time,  but  particularly 
in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  is  of  serious  injury  to  the  green- 
house plants,  which  require  nothing  more  than  merely  to  be  kept 
from  frost. 

Occasional,  but  gentle  waterings,  must  now  be  given  to  all  the 
plants ;  some  will  require  to  be  watered  three  times  a  week,  while 
others,  particularly  the  succulent  kinds,  will  not  need  it  more  than 
a  little  once  a  week ;  but  as  the  state  of  the  weather  sometimes 
makes  a  very  material  difference  in  this,  there  is  no  saying  how 
often,  or  how  much  at  a  time,  ought  to  be  administered  ;  however,  it 
will  be  safer  to  give  a  little  and  often,  than  too  much  at  a  time, 
which  should  now  be  administered  in  the  forenoon  of  fine  days,  that 
the  damp  may  pass  off  before  the  windows  are  shut,  lest  the  steam 
occasioned  thereby  might  create  a  mouldiness,  and  injure  the  plants. 

Pick  off  all  decayed  leaves  from  the  plants,  and  throw  them  out 
of  the  house ;  for  if  they  are  suffered  to  remain  in  it,  they  will  rot 
and  infect  the  air,  which  foul  effluvia  being  imbibed  by  the  plants, 
will  infect  them  also,  and  bring  on  disease  and  vermin. 

Examine  the  tubs  and  pots  occasionally,  and  if  the  earth  cakes  or 
binds  at  top,  loosen  it  to  a  moderate  depth;  and  where  decayed 
branches  or  shoots  occur,  prune  them  off  as  soon  as  observed,  and 
cast  them  out  of  the  house. 

The  myrtles  and  other  plants  which  are  in  frames,  or  pits,  must 
now  be  duly  attended  to,  in  like  manner  as  those  in  the  green-house. 
The  frames  or  pits,  to  the  full  height  of  the  glasses,  must  be  lined 
around  with  horse-dung,  leaves,  straw,  fern,  or  the  like,  to  keep  the 
frost  from  penetrating  in  at  the  sides  and  ends ;  the  plants  must  have 
plenty  of  fresh  air  at  all  favorable  opportunities,  and  be  effectually 
protected  at  night  and  in  frosty  weather,  by  laying  a  sufficient  cover- 
ing of  mats,  straw,  boards,  &c.,  over  the  glasses,  observing  not  to 
deprive  them  of  the  benefit  of  light  but  while  absolute  necessity  re- 
quires it. 


596  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [NOV. 


PRESERVING   TENDER   BULBS,   ETC. 

As  some  persons  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  a  hot-house, 
may  be  desirous  of  having  some  tender  exotic  bulbous  and  tuberous- 
rooted  plants,  such  as  crinums,  pancratiums,  arums,  amomum,  zinzi- 
ber,  or  true  ginger,  &c.,  these  and  such  like  roots  may,  in  the  be- 
ginning of  this  month,  be  taken  up  and  carefully  dried  as  you  do 
tuberoses,  and  then  packed  up  in  very  dry  sand,  or  in  extremely  dry 
moss,  observing  to  keep  them  during  winter  completely  out  of  the 
reach  of  frost  or  moisture.  About  the  beginning  or  middle  of  April, 
you  may  plant  them  in  pots,  which  should  be  plunged  in  a  temperate 
hot-bed,  and  give  the  roots  but  very  little  water  till  they  produce 
foliage,  and  are  growing  freely :  towards  the  latter  end  of  May  the 
pots  may  be  placed  in  the  open  air,  to  remain  till  the  latter  end  of 
September,  when  they  should  be  taken  in,  and  placed  in  the  green- 
house, or  in  the  windows  of  some  warm  room  till  this  time ;  then  to 
be  treated  as  above.  Or,  you  may  keep  up  the  roots  till  the  middle 
of  May,  and  then  plant  them  even  in  the  open  ground ;  after  which 
they  will  grow  considerably  before  autumn,  but  not  flower  quite  as 
strong  as  if  properly  kept  in  a  hot-house. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

It  is  to  be  presumed  that  your  tan-pits  have  been  renewed,  and  all 
your  pots  containing  pine  and  other  tender  plants,  duly  arranged  in 
the  course  of  the  last  and  preceding  month,  as  then  directed ;  but 
should  it  happen  by  any  disappointment,  that  this  could  not  have 
been  effected,  it  ought  on  no  account  to  be  omitted  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month. 

As  the  cold  weather  advances  the  fires  in  the  stove  should  be  in- 
creased proportionably,  being  careful  not  to  overheat  the  air,  lest 
thereby  the  plants  shoot  too  freely,  which  would  be  a  serious  injury 
to  them  at  this  season,  by  rendering  them  more  tender,  and  conse- 
quently less  able  to  endure  the  vicissitudes  of  the  ensuing  winter ; 
besides,  the  most  forward  of  the  pine  plants  might  start  to  fruit, 
which  would  ruin  all  your  expectations ;  nor  should  the  air  be  kept 
too  cold — that  is,  the  spirits  in  the  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit  suf- 
fered to  get  lower  in  the  night  than  52  or  54  degrees,  and  in  the  day 
than  65°  or  70°,  lest  the  pines  become  stunted,  and  many  of  the 
curious  exotics  lose  their  leaves,  and  perhaps  their  extreme  parts  de- 
cay for  want  of  that  degree  of  heat  so  necessary  and  so  congenial  to 
their  constitutions. 

Give  water  occasionally  to  such  plants  as  want  it,  in  moderate  pro- 
portions, and  not  too  much  at  a  time,  for  they  cannot  now  discharge 
it  so  freely  as  in  summer ;  observing  that  it  stands  at  least  twenty- 
four  hours  in  the  stove  before  you  use  it,  to  acquire  the  same  degree 
of  heat  as  the  air  of  the  house. 


NOV.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  597 

Fresh  air  must  be  admitted  into  the  house  every  mild  and  warm 
day  while  the  weather  continues  open,  but  especially  when  the  ther- 
mometer is  above  70° ;  you  must  be  attentive,  however,  to  close  the 
house  immediately  on  any  sudden  unfavorable  change  of  weather, 
and  always  sufficiently  early  in  the  afternoon  to  retain  a  considerable 
warmth  in  the  house  during  the  night,  which  will,  sometimes,  in  the 
early  part  of  the  month,  supersede  the  necessity  of  fire,  or  at  least 
of  but  very  little. 

The  art  of  managing  tender  exotic  plants  consists  principally  in 
keeping  the  air  of  the  stove  or  hot-house  in  a  proper  and  regular 
temperature  of  heat,  in  duly  proportioning  the  quantity  of  water  to 
the  different  natures  and  necessities  of  the  various  kinds  of  pjants, 
in  judiciously  admitting  a  sufficiency  of  air  at  suitable  opportunities, 
and  in  keeping  the  bark-pits,  when  they  are  used,  in  a  proper  state 
of  fermentation  ;  all  which  must  be  duly  attended  to,  or  the  desired 
success  cannot  be  expected. 

Pick  off  constantly  all  the  decayed  leaves  from  the  plants,  and 
throw  them  out  of  the  house ;  clean  their  leaves  and  stems  from 
filth,  which  many  kinds  are  subject  to  contract;  wash  off  and  destroy 
all  insects  which  infest  any  of  them,  frequently  stir  the  surface  earth 
in  the  pots  to  keep  it  from  contracting  moss,  &c.,  and  keep  all  the 
house  clean,  sweet,  and  in  neat  order. 


CARE   OF  YOUNG   SUCCESSION   PINES   AND    OTHER  PLANTS. 

The  young  pines  or  other  plants  in  succession  houses  must  have 
the  same  care  as  above ;  and  those  in  bark  beds,  under  garden  frames, 
are  to  be  diligently  attended  to ;  the  outside  lining  must  be  kept  to 
the  full  height  of  the  frame  all  around,  and  in  a  regular  and  con- 
stant state  of  warmth ;  the  glasses  must  be  carefully  and  sufficiently 
covered  every  night,  and  by  day  in  a  very  severe  frost,  but  the  plants 
should  have  as  much  light  as  possible,  and  air  whenever  it  can  be 
given  with  safety  :  decayed  leaves  must  constantly  be  picked  off  and 
taken  out  of  the  frame,  but  watering  will  seldom  be  necessary  at 
this  season,  as  the  steam  arising  from  the  bed  will  occasion  a  moist 
atmosphere  about  the  plants.  Observe  that  the  more  succulent  kinds 
will  not  keep  as  well  in  such  a  place  as  in  a  dry  stove,  or  on  shelves 
in  the  hot-house. 

The  garden  pits  erected  with  brick  and  furnished  with  flues,  in 
which  you  have  tender  exotic  plants,  must  also  have  a  lining  of  hot 
dung  placed  around  them  to  their  full  height,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  frost  from  penetrating  in  through  the  wall ;  moderate  fires  must 
be  made  in  the  flues  every  evening,  and  in  severe  weather,  to  keep 
up  the  internal  heat  when  that  of  the  pit  is  found  not  to  be  suffi- 
ciently strong:  the  glasses  must  be  "well  covered  with  mats,  &c., 
every  night,  and  even  by  day  when  the  weather  is  cloudy  and  the 
frost  very  severe. 


598 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


[Nov. 


VINE   BORDERS    HEATED   ARTIFICIALLY. 

It  may  be  as  well  here  to  mention  the  following  method,  lately  in- 
troduced, of  the  artificial  mode  employed  for  heating  vine  borders. 
It  is  described  by  A.  L.  Gower,  Esq.,  in  the  Horticultural  Society's 
Journal.  t(  The  bottom  of  the  border,"  he  says,  "  is  gently  sloped 
from  the  houses  to  the  extreme  edge,  where  is  built  a  box  drain  ex- 
tending the  whole  length  of  the  border,  as  shown  in  the  accompany- 
ing section,  marked  1 ;  this  drain  is  one  foot  square,  the  top  of  it 
being  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  border,  as  also  shown. 

"Ground  Plan  of  Houses,  showing  Cross -Walls  beneath  the  Vine 
Borders.  Section. — When  this  was  completed,  dwarf  walls,  marked 
3,  were  built  across  the  border,  three  and  a  half  feet  apart,  in  the 
pigeon-hole  manner;  on  the  top  of  these  walls  are  laid  rough  flags ; 
these,  in  reality,  form  the  bottom  of  the  border,  and  upon  these  is 
placed  about  six  inches  of  broken  stones  and  bricks,  marked  4 ;  then 
covered  with  turf,  with  the  grassy  side  down,  to  prevent  the  soil  from 
mixing  with  the  stones.  There  are  flues  or  chimneys  at  each  end  of 
the  border  and  centre  communicating  with  the  drains  in  the  bottom, 
as  shown  in  the  section,  marked  2.  The  top  of  these  flues  is  nicely 
made  of  stone  ten  inches  square,  through  which  is  cut  a  hole  of  six 

Fig.  60. 


inches  square,  into  which  is  inserted  a  plug  of  a  wedge-like  form,  so 
as  to  fit  tightly,  but  removable  at  pleasure ;  these  flues  are  about  an 
inch  above  ground.  At  the  back  of  the  border  are  placed  cast-iron 
pipes  (marked  5)  perpendicularly,  and  also  communicating  with  the 
drains  underneath ;  these  being  higher  than  the  flues  in  front,  cause 


DEC.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  599 

a  motion  in  the  air  beneath  the  border.  After  a  long  continuance  of 
rain,  the  plugs  in  the  flues  in  front  are  taken  out,  thereby  creating  a 
great  circulation  of  air,  and  thus,  to  a  vast  extent,  accelerating  the 
proper  drying  of  the  borders,  which  is  deemed  of  much  importance. 
In  the  winter  season,  the  borders  are  covered  with  leaves  and  stable 
manure,  to  the  depth  of  twelve  inches.  It  is  obvious  that  the  whole 
aim  of  the  constructor  of  this  border  was  to  do  that  which  experi- 
ence shows  to  be  so  very  important.  He  not  only  got  rid  of  super- 
fluous water,  but  he  introduced  air  in  abundance,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  the  natural  warmth  which  it  carries  with  it.  The  result  was, 
Black  Hamburg  Grapes,  weighing  from  two  pounds  nine  ounces  to 
five  pounds  a  bunch — beautiful  fruit,  of  admirable  quality,  on  vines 
just  seven  years  old. 

The  experiments  with  concreting  vine  border  were  all  made  with 
the  same  end  in  view — the  elevation  of  the  temperature  of  the  soil 
in  which  vine  roots  are  formed ;  this  is  found  to  be  of  great  import- 
ance. 


DECEMBEK. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

This  is  very  frequently  one  of  the  most  severe  of  our  winter 
months,  and  every  judicious  gardener  will  be  well  provided  against 
its  rigor  by  having  all  his  frames  lined  around  as  directed  in  Novem- 
ber, and  being  well  supplied  with  the  necessary  mats  and  other  cover- 
ing. If  this  provision  be  neglected,  he  may  be  taken,  as  it  were,  by 
surprise,  and  in  one  or  two  nights  lose  a  great  number  of  valuable 
plants. 

Should  the  weather  prove  mild,  and  the  ground  continue  open  in 
the  beginning  of  the  month,  which  seldom  happens  in  the  middle  or 
eastern  States,  you  may  complete  any  work  recommended  to  be  done 
in  November,  and  then  unavoidably  omitted  ;  such  as  dressing  aspa- 
ragus and  artichoke  beds,  taking  up  and  putting  into  a  state  of  pre- 
servation, cabbages,  turnips,  parsneps,  carrots,  beets,  celery,  endive, 
cardoons,  salsafy,  scorzonera,  &c.  But  the  many  chances  that  are 
against  your  being  able  to  accomplish  this  work  in  December,  ought 
to  induce  you  to  double  your  diligence  in  November,  and  complete 
everything  in  due  season. 

CAULIFLOWEE  AND  CABBAGE  PLANTS. 

Every  mild  day  observe  to  uncover  your  cauliflower  plants  which 
are  under  frames  and  glasses,  that  they  may  enjoy  the  free  air,  other- 
wise they  will  draw  up  and  become  weak :  constantly  pick  off  all  de- 
cayed leaves,  which,  if  suffered  to  remain  on,  would  be  very  injurious 


600  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [DEC. 

to  the  plants,  especially  if  it  should  happen,  as  it  frequently  does  in 
this  month,  that  the  weather  should  be  so  severe  as  to  render  it  im- 
prudent to  uncover  the  beds  for  several  days  successively;  for  when 
these  decayed  leaves  rot,  they  emit  a  rancid  vapor,  which,  mixing 
with  the  confined  air  of  the  beds,  renders  it  very  unwholesome  for 
the  plants. 

When  it  is  not  safe  to  take  off  the  lights  entirely,  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  let  them  be  raised  upon  props  two  or  three  inches  at  the 
back  of  the  frames,  to  let  in  fresh  air  to  the  plants. 

The  glasses  must  be  covered  every  night  with  mats,  straw,  fern, 
or  some  other  long  dry  litter,  and  even  in  the  day-time  when  the 
frost  is  very  rigorous ;  but  no  opportunity  ought  to  be  missed  to  ad- 
mit light  to  the  plants,  and  to  give  them  air  when  it  can  be  done 
with  safety.  The  frame  containing  them  must  be  carefully  lined  all 
around  the  outside,  as  directed  in  November,  to  prevent  the  frost 
from  penetrating  in  at  the  sides  and  ends  thereof. 

Some  will  consider  this  rather  troublesome,  but  it  will  be  found 
much  less  so  than  to  sow  the  seed  in  January  or  February,  and 
nurse,  and  once  or  twice  transplant  the  young  seedlings  during  the 
remainder  of  the  winter  and  spring ;  besides,  the  autumn  sown  plants 
when  taken  proper  care  of,  will  produce  much  larger  and  better 
heads  than  those  sown  in  winter  or  spring,  and  be  earlier  and  more 
certain. 

The  early  York,  sugar-loaf,  and  other  tender  kinds  of  cabbage 
plants,  require  exactly  the  same  treatment  as  the  cauliflower,  but 
being  more  hardy  less  covering  will  be  necessary,  and  more  air  may 
with  safety  be  admitted.  There  is  nothing  more  injurious  to  either, 
than  to  be  kept  too  closely  covered ;  therefore  no  opportunity,  if  but 
for  half  an  hour  at  a  time,  ought  to  be  omitted  to  admit  light  and  air, 
when  it  can  be  done  with  any  tolerable  degree  of  safety. 

The  Savoy,  flat  Dutch,  drum-head,  and  other  late  kinds,  will  keep 
when  planted  in  warm  borders  with  very  little  protection ;  arches 
made  of  old  hoops,  &c.,  should  be  erected  over  them  on  which  to 
lay  mats,  straw,  branches  of  evergreen  trees,  or  shrubs,  &c.  (For 
further  particulars,  see  page  536.) 

CARE  OF  LETTUCE  PLANTS. 

The  care  of  lettuce  plants  being  the  same  now  as  in  the  ensuing 
month,  I  refer  you  for  the  necessary  instructions  to  page  26,  and  also 
to  page  534,  &c. 

SMALL  SALADING. 

Where  small  salading,  such  as  cresses,  rape,  mustard,  lettuce, 
radish,  &c.,  is  required  at  this  season,  these  seeds  must  be  sown  in  a 
hot-bed,  protected  with  a  good  frame  and  glasses,  and  also  sufficient 
covering  of  mats,  &c.,  or  in  the  green-house;  but  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  cover  the  seeds  deeper  with  earth  than  what  is  barely  suffi- 
cient to  hide  them. 

Keep  the  glasses  constantly  over  them,  and  admit  air  to  the  plants 


DEC.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  601 

every  day  when  the  weather  is  mild,  by  raising  the  lights  a  little 
behind,  otherwise  they  will  be  apt  to  become  mouldy  and  decay.  It 
is  almost  unnecessary  to  say  that  the  glasses  must  be  kept  well 
covered  every  night,  and  even  in  the  day-time  during  extremely 
severe  weather.  ''•;*> 


MUSHROOMS. 

Particular  care  must  now  be  taken  to  preserve  fche  mushroom  beds 
out  of  doors  from  frost  or  wet,  either  of  which  would  destroy  the 
spawn,  and  render  the  beds  unproductive.  They  must  consequently 
be  covered  with  a  sufficient  depth  of  dry  straw,  and  over  this  mats  : 
after  heavy  rains  or  snow  they  should  be  examined,  and  if  you  find 
the  covering  next  the  earth  of  the  beds  wet,  take  it  totally  away  and 
immediately  replace  it  with  dsy  straw.  Where  the  necessary  and 
proper  care  is  taken,  there  will  be  a  constant  supply  of  mushrooms 
for  the  table  even  in  the  most  rigorous  seasons.  Observe  the  gene- 
ral directions  given  on  page  539,  &c.  This  necessity  for  covering 
and  continual  renewal  shows  the  advantage  of  having  the  beds 
inside.  Where  there  is  not  a  suitable  house  erected  for  the  purpose, 
the  winter  beds  may  be  made  in  the  sheds  where  the  heating  appa- 
ratus is.  * 

FORCING  ASPARAGUS. 

Hot-beds  may  now  be  made  for  forcing  asparagus,  to  supply  the 
table  about  the  latter  end  of  January;  for  at  this  season  it  will  be 
full  six  weeks  from  the  time  of  making  the  beds  before  the  aspa- 
ragus will  be  fit  to  cut,  presuming  the  beds  to  be  kept  of  a  due 
temperature  of  heat.  (For  the  method  of  making  and  managing 
them,  see  page  128,  &c.) 

ORDINARY  WORK. 

If  the  weather  continues  open,  carry  dung  into  the  quarters  of  the 
kitchen  garden,  spread  it,  and  trench  the  ground,  laying  it  in  high 
sloping  ridges  to  be  mellowed  by  the  frost,  &c. 

When  the  ground  is  frozen  that  it  cannot  be  dug,  cart  or  carry  in 
manure,  and  lay  it  down  in  convenient  places,  to  have  it  at  hand  when 
the  frost  goes  off ;  repair  the  fences  of  the  garden  where  necessary ; 
if  you  have  any  seeds  remaining  in  their  pods  or  capsules,  beat  or 
rub  out  and  clean  them,  so  as  to  be  ready  for  sowing  when  wanted ; 
prepare  all  tools  which  may  be  necessary  in  spring,  that  there  may 
be  no  delay  when  the  season  is  favorable  for  commencing  your  early 
cropping. 

Provide  from  the  woods,  &c.,  pea  sticks  and  bean  poles  of  every 
size ;  dress  and  point  them,  that  they  may  be  in  complete  readiness 
when  wanted ;  collect  all  your  old  sticks  and  poles  which  are  yet  fit 
for  use,  and  lay  them  with  the  new  ones  under  the  protection  of  some 
shed,  to  prevent  their  rotting  by  wet,  &c. 


602  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [DEC. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

In  such  of  the  southern  States  as  have  but  very  slight  frosts  in 
winter,  you  may,  in  addition  to  other  necessary  work,  sow  on  warm 
borders-  for  early  crops,  small  quantities  of  carrots,  parsneps,  onions, 
beets,  radish,  lettuce,  spinage  and  parsley.  &c.  j  earth  up  late  celery 
and  cardoons,  tie  up  endive  for  blanching,  and  plant  out  in  rows  up 
to  their  heads  such  of  the  cabbage  tribe  as  are  intended  for  seed,  cover- 
ing their  heads  wifh  straw  if  found  necessary,  to  preserve  them  from 
frost  or  wet.  Tak6  care  to  set  each  kind  apart  by  itself,  and  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  any  other,  for  if  contiguous,  the  farina  of 
the  one  when  in  blossom  would  impregnate  the  seeds  in  the  ovaries 
of  the  other,  whereby  the  whole  would  become  bastardized,  and  you 
would  have  neither  kind  in  its  original  purity. 

Plant  early  Mazagan,  Lisbon,  long-pod,  and  Windsor  beans,  and 
sow  early-frame,  Sangster's  early,  and  Charleton  peas ;  earth  up  the 
crops  of  peas  and  beans  which  were  sowed  in  the  preceding  months, 
as  they  advance  in  growth,  and  if  there  is  any  danger  to  be  appre- 
hended from  frost,  cover  them  at  night  and  in  severe  weather  with 
long  dry  straw,  which  can  be  conveniently  removed  when  a  favorable 
change  takes  place,  and  laid  on  again  when  found  necessary. 

Plant  out  garlic,  rocambole,  and  shallots,  likewise  large  onions,  for 
seed,  and  sow  as  directed  in  March,  the  seeds  of  rhubarb,  sea-kale, 
skerrets,  alesanders,  dill,  and  such  other  kinds  of  seeds  as  do  not 
vegetate  freely  when  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring. 


THE   FRUIT    GARDEN. 


IMPROVING  THE  BORDERS,  ETC. 

You  may  now  carry  well-rotted  old  dung,  rich  earth,  or  compost, 
and  spread  it  on  the  borders  in  which  are  planted  wall  or  espalier 
trees — this  will  protect  the  roots  during  winter ;  in  spring,  when  dug 
in,  it  will  add  new  vigor  to  the  trees,  and  the  advantage  will  be  very 
evident  in  the  ensuing  crops.  Standard  fruit-trees  of  every  kind 
will  be  greatly  improved  by  similar  treatment,  especially  if  the 
ground  is  become  poor,  or  any  way  exhausted. 

PROTECTING  THE  ROOTS  OF  NEW-PLANTED  TREES. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  if  omitted  in  November,  you 
should  lay  wispy  dung,  straw,  or  long  litter  of  some  kind  over  the 
roots  of  those  trees  which  were  planted  last  spring  or  in  the  preceding 
months,  to  prevent  the  frost  from  having  too  great  an  effect  on  their 
young  and  yet  tender  fibres  j  this  in  very  rigorous  seasons  often  does 
considerable  injury  to  young  trees,  and  sometimes  lays  the  founda- 
tion of  diseases  which  ultimately  destroy  them. 


DEC.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN,  603 

Figs  in  particular  will  require  this  attention,  and  besides,  the  tops 
and  stems  of  the  tender  kinds  should  be  covered  with  mats,  or  other 
suitable  protection  where  the  frosts  are  extremely  severe. 

PRUNING  APPLES  AND  PEARS  ON  ESPALIERS,  ETC. 

Apples  and  pears  being  perfectly  hardy,  may  now  be  pruned  if 
the  weather  happens  to  be  mild,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on 
page  35  ;  but  if  this  is  not  deemed  necessary  on  account  of  dispatch- 
ing business  when  it  can  conveniently  be  done,  it  will  be  rather 
better  to  defer  pruning  till  the  latter  end  of  February,  unless  you  do 
it  before  the  severe  frosts  set  in. 

As  to  the  pruning  of  stone  fruit-trees,  I  would  not  recommend  it 
to  be  done  in  the  middle  or  eastern  States  at  this  season,  for  the 
reasons  assigned  on  page  234,  &c.,  but  in  the  southern  States  it  may 
be  now  performed  with  the  greatest  safety. 

Gooseberries  and  currants  being  extremely  hardy,  may  be  pruned 
in  any  of  the  winter  months ;  but  where  it  is  intended  to  propagate 
the  best  kinds  from  the  cuttings,  it  will  not  be  advisable  to  prune  or 
dress  them  when  the  ground  is  so  frozen  as  to  prevent  your  being 
able  to  plant  the  good  cuttings  taken  off  in  pruning. 

OTHER  NECESSARY  WORK. 

You  must  be  careful  to  keep  the  frost  out  of  the  apartments  where 
the  choice  winter  fruits  are  put  up,  for  should  any  of  them  get  frozen 
they  would  certainly  decay  soon  after,  and  rot  the  others  about  them. 
Examine  the  fruit  which  you  have  on  shelves  in  dry  warm  cellars, 
once  every  ten  days,  and  take  away  any  that  you  find  tainted ;  con- 
tinue over  them  near  a  foot  thick  of  clean  dry  straw,  and  secure  the 
windows  and  doors  from  the  admission  of  frost. 

Take  off  all  moss  from  your  fruit-trees,  and  when  it  is  gathered, 
carry  it  quite  out  of  the  garden  to  prevent  its  multiplying  by  seed, 
which  it  is  very  apt  to  do. 

Nail  or  tie  up  the  dangling  shoots  which  are  loose  on  walls  or 
espaliers,  to  prevent  their  being  dashed  about  by  the  winds,  and 
consequently  their  bark  injured. 

Repair  all  your  decayed  espaliers,  or  prepare  stakes  and  other 
materials  for  so  doing  as  soon  as  the  frost  gets  out  of  the  ground. 

Make  or  provide  and  paint  such  new  frame- work  trellises  as  you 
intend  to  erect  next  spring,  and  do  every  other  work  that  may  have 
a  tendency  to  forward  your  business  at  that  season. 

PREPARE  FOR  FORCING  FRUIT-TREES/ 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this,  or  the  beginning  of  next  month, 
put  on  the  glasses  or  lights  on  your  fire-heat  forcing-frames,  such  as 
are  described  on  page  51,  and  immediately  prune  and  nail  up  the 
trees  in  regular  order,  if  not  done  before. 

By  this  method  the  trees  will  not  be  so  sensible  of  the  sudden 
transition  from  the  depth  of  winter  to  spring,  when  you  kindle  fires, 


604  THE  ORCHARD.  [DEC. 

as  they  would  if  the  lights  were  not  now  put  on ;  and  it  will  gradu- 
ally bring  your  trees  to  a  state  of  vegetation,  for  the  works  of  nature 
are  performed  by  degrees,  and  not  in  a  hurry.  For  general  informa- 
tion respecting  the  construction  of  forcing-frames  and  houses,  of  every 
kind,  and  the  methods  of  working  them,  see  the  Fruit  Garden  for 
January,  &c. 

SOUTHERN  STATES. 

In  such  of  the  southern  States  as  have  not  severe  frost  in  winter, 
you  may  now  prune  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  necta- 
rines, and  apricots;  quinces,  raspberries,  currants,  gooseberries,  and 
every  other  kind  of  fruit-tree,  the  orange  family  and  the  fig  excepted. 
You  may  also  plant  all  the  above,  and  any  other  sorts  with  great 
propriety  at  this  season,  excepting  the  orange  family  only.  For  the 
methods  of  pruning,  see  January,  and  of  planting,  see  March. 


THE    ORCHARD. 

Apples  and  pear-trees  that  are  in  good  health,  may  now  be  pruned 
agreeably  to  the  directions  given  on  page  56,  &c.,  to  which  I  par- 
ticularly refer  you ;  but  it  will  be  better  to  defer  the  pruning  of 
stone  fruit-trees  to  February,  and  of  all  trees  that  are  in  a  bad  state 
of  health  to  the  beginning  of  March,  in  which  month  (page  234, 
&c.)  you  will  find  the  best  methods  of  treating  them  for  the  restora- 
tion of  their  health  and  vigor. 

Rub  and  scrape  off  moss  wherever  it  appears  on  your  fruit-trees, 
it  robs  them  of  their  nourishment,  prevents  their  free  perspiration, 
and  is  an  enemy  to  them  in  every  way. 

You  may  now  cart  manure  into  the  orchard,  and  spread  it  over  the 
whole  ground,  if  necessary,  or  over  the  roots  of  such  trees  as  you 
think  are  in  most  need  of  it ;  this  will  not  only  be  of  very  consider- 
able service  to  the  trees,  but  also  to  any  crops  of  grass  or  grain,  &c., 
that  you  expect  off  the  place  the  ensuing  seasons. 

It  will  be  of  considerable  advantage  to  new  planted  trees  to  lay- 
long  litter,  &c.  around  their  roots  to  protect  them  from  frost,  as  di- 
rected in  the  Fruit  Garden  for  this  month. 

The  hedges  which  enclose  your  orchard  and  other  compartments, 
and  that  are  grown  tall,  straggling,  and  thin,  may  now  be  cut  down 
and  plashed,  as  directed  on  page  279 ;  you  need  be  under  no  appre- 
hension of  their  suffering  by  frost,  especially  the  white  thorns. 

SOUTHERN  STATES. 

"When  the  ground  continues  open  in  winter,  or  so  much  so  as  not 
to  interrupt  the  operation  of  ploughing,  you  may  manure  your  or- 
chards, and  plough  such  of  them  as  you  intend  to  lay  down  with 
clover,  or  grass  of  any  kind,  or  to  raise  crops  of  grain  or  potatoes  in. 


DEC  3  THE  VINEYARD. — THE  NURSERY.  605 

You  may  likewise  continue  to  plant  and  prune  all  manner  of  hardy 
fruit-trees,  but  particularly  those  mentioned  in  the  Fruit  Garden  for 
this  month.  Here  I  would  recommend  to  your  attention,  the  perusal 
of  the  article  Orchard  in  January,  page  56,  February,  page  149, 
and  March,  page  234. 


THE   VINEYARD. 

In  the  middle  and  eastern  States,  little  remains  to  be  done  in  the 
vineyard  at  this  season ;  indeed  it  sometimes  happens  in  the  former 
that  the  ground  is  open  in  the  beginning  of  the  month,  in  which 
case  you  may  plough  between  the  young  vines  and  earth  them  up, 
as  directed  in  November,  if  then  omitted.  It  will  be  of  considerable 
use  to  lay  some  litter  around  the  roots  and  a  little  way  up  the  stems 
of  such  tender  kinds  as  were  planted  in  the  preceding  spring  and 
autumn,  to  protect  them  from  very  severe  frost,  till  they  are  once 
fully  established.  For  further  particulars  of  what  may  be  done  in 
this  month,  in  and  for  the  vineyard,  as  well  as  in  the  ensuing,  see 
page  60. 

In  the  southern  States  you  may  now  prune  vines,  as  directed  in 
February  ;  and  south  of  the  thirty-fifth  degree  of  latitude,  vineyards 
may  be  planted  agreeably  to  the  instructions  given  in  March. 


THE    NURSERY. 


NEW  PLANTED   TREES. 

Continue  the  care  of  the  more  curious  and  tender  sorts  of  new- 
planted  trees  and  shrubs  j  where  there  was  no  litter  laid  between  the 
rows  in  November,  let  it  be  no  longer  neglected,  and  bring  it  up 
close  to  their  stems  the  better  to  protect  all  the  roots  from  frost, 
should  the  winter  prove  so  severe  as  to  destroy  their  tops,  which  may 
also  be  protected  as  directed  on  page  614.  The  roots  and  lower 
parts  of  their  stems  being  thus  preserved  they  will  generally  shoot 
out  freely  in  the  ensuing  spring  from  the  near  surface  of  the  ground. 

SEEDLING   TREES. 

Seedlings  which  make  but  slow  progress  in  growth  the  first  year, 
such  as  pines,  &c.,  must  now  be  taken  due  care  of,  as  directed  on 
page  587. 

The  beds  of  acorns,  and  of  any  other  tree  seeds  that  were  sown 
in  the  preceding  months,  would  be  greatly  benefited  by  laying  peas- 
straw,  fern,  leaves,  straw,  or  other  long  litter  over  them  during  the 


606  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [DEC. 

continuance  of  hard  frost ;  but  this  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  the 
frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  spring,  otherwise  it  will  invite  a  resort 
of  mice,  &c.,  to  destroy  the  seeds. 

PROTECTING   TREES   AND    SHRUBS,  ETC.,  IN   POTS. 


The  tall  growing  plants  in  pots  which  are  plunged  in  warm  bor- 
bers,  and  the  pots  covered  with  tan  as  directed  on  page  588,  may,  if 
the  kinds  are  rather  tender,  require  an  awning  of  mats  or  strong 
canvas  over  them  to  protect  them  from  cutting  winds,  which  are 
always  very  injurious  to  tender  plants.  The  other  tender  plants, 
both  shrubby  and  herbaceous,  which  you  have  in  pots  in  frames, 
must  be  duly  attended  to,  as  directed  on  page  595. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 

Where  the  ground  is  open  and  in  good  condition  for  worlting,  this 
is  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  hawthorn,  holly,  yew,  mezereon,  red 
cedar,  juniper  and  pyracantha  berries,  and  all  other  seeds  that  require 
a  year's  previous  preparation,  such  as  Stewartia  malacodendron,  ash, 
euonymus,  hornbean,  celastrus  scandens,  nyssa,  and  many  other 
sorts.  (For  the  method  of  ^performing  this  work,  see  the  Nursery 
for  February.) 

Continue  to  dig  between  the  rows  of  young  trees  and  shrubs,  and 
forward  the  manuring  and  trenching  of  such  pieces  of  ground  as  are 
to  be  planted  with  young  trees  in  the  ensuing  months. 

You  may  still  continue  to  make  layers  and  plant  cuttings  of  any 
kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  that  succeed  by  these  means,  and  also  dig 
up  and  transplant  suckers.  Prune  roses  and  other  hardy  shrubs, 
also  forest  and  young  fruit-trees  in  training.  Plant  out  into  nursery 
rows  the  various  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  as  directed 
in  March ;  but  let  it  be  remembered  that  these  instructions  are  ex- 
clusively intended  for  such  parts  of  the  Union  as  have  not  frost 
during  winter  sufficient  to  prevent  the  ploughing  of  ground. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

TULIPS,  HYACINTHS,  ANEMONES,  AND  RANUNCULUSES. 

Continue  to  protect  your  beds  of  choice  tulips,  hyacinths,  anemones 
and  ranunculuses  as  directed  last  month ;  this  will  be  indispensable 
at  present,  as  December  is  generally  one  of  the  most  severe  and  cut- 
ting months  in  the  year.  It  would  be  unnecessary  in  this  place  to 
repeat  all  the  instructions  given  in  November  for  that  purpose,  and 
therefore  I  refer  you  to  page  589,  &c.,  for  information. 

Some  of  the  Van  Thol  and  other  early  tulips  which  were  planted 
in  pots  in  October,  may,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  be  placed 


DEC.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  601 

in  the  hot-house,  or  in  any  other  forcing  department,  to  produce  a 
winter  bloom  of  flowers.  Early  hyacinths,  spring  crocuses,  snow- 
drops, dwarf  Persian  iris,  and  polyanthus-narcissus  may  now  be  forced 
in  like  manner ;  but  observe  that  you  are  to  reserve  a  sufficiency  of 
each  sort  for  several  successions,  so  as  to  have  a  constant  supply  of 
flowers  until  those  in  the  open  ground  begin  to  blow. 

When  the  plants  are  just  beginning  to  flower  some  of  them  may 
be  taken  in  to  decorate  parlors  and  other  rooms. 

CARE  OF  AURICULAS  AND  CARNATIONS. 

Your  choice  auriculas  and  carnations  must  now  be  defended  from 
heavy  rains,  frost,  and  snow;  but  large  portions  of  air  must  be  admit- 
ted to  them  at  every  favorable  opportunity,  otherwise  the  auriculas 
will  start  to  flower  at  an  untimely  season,  and  the  carnations  will 
draw,  become  weakly,  and  be  good  for  nothing.  Neither  of  them  are 
very  tender,  and  consequently  should  not  be  kept  too  closely  shut  up. 

POLYANTHUSES  AND  DOUBLE  PRIMROSES. 

The  fine  polyanthuses  and  double  primroses  require  exactly  the 
same  treatment  as  the  auriculas  and  carnations,  which  need  not  be 
repeated  ;  the  common  polyanthuses  and  primroses  will  succeed  very 
well  in  the  open  borders,  but  will  be  the  better  of  a  slight  covering 
of  straw  during  the  continuance  of  severe  frost. 


SOWING  ANEMONE  AND  RANUNCULUS  SEEDS. 

The  double  varieties  of  the  Anemone  hortensis,  or  broad-leaved 
garden  anemone,  and  Anemone  coronaria,  or  narrow-leaved,  as  well 
as  of  the  Ranunculus  persica,  or  Persian  ranunculus,  being  generally 
extremely  beautiful,  are  peculiarly  deserving  of  attention;  as  all 
those  delightful  flowers,  displaying  such  a  diversity  of  shades  and 
colors,  are  only  seminal  varieties,  and  as  the  number  of  them  may 
be  annually  increased,  and  superior  varieties  obtained,  no  good  florist 
will  neglect  to  sow  seeds  of  each  sort  every  year. 

The  seeds  of  either  kind  should  be  procured  from  semi-double 
flowers,  for  the  full  double  seldom  bear  any,  and  those  produced  by 
the  single  rarely  give  double  flowers.  Care  should  be  taken  to  save 
the  seeds  from  flowers  possessed  of  good  properties,  that  is,  such  as 
have  tall  strong  stems,  a  considerable  number  of  well  formed  petals 
of  rich,  good  and  brilliant  colors. 

The  seed  of  the  ranunculus  should  remain  on  the  plant  till  it  has 
lost  its  verdure  and  becomes  brown  and  dry,  it  may  then  be  cut  off 
and  spread  upon  paper  in  a  dry  room  exposed  to  the  air ;  when  per- 
fectly dry  it  should  be  put  into  a  paper  bag  and  kept  free  from  all 
dampness  till  the  time  of  sowing,  otherwise  it  would  be  in  danger  of 
contracting  a  mouldiness  that  would  infallibly  destroy  it.  The  ane- 
mone seed  must  be  gathered  from  time  to  time  as  it  opens ;  for,  being 
very  downy  and  light,  it  will  otherwise  be  blown  away  by  the  first 
breezes  of  wind,  or  fall  to  the  ground  and  be  lost. 


608  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [DEC. 

It  would  be  found  very  difficult  to  sow  anemone  seed  in  a  regular 
manner :  it  is  united  with,  and  enveloped  in  a  downy  substance,  that, 
upon  being  put  together  in  quantity,  adheres  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
render  it  necessary  to  rub  it  between  the  hands  for  a  considerable  time 
in  dry  sand  previous  to  sowing ;  otherwise  the  young  plants  would 
rise  in  clusters,  and  not  have  space  enough  to  form  their  roots.  •#•*•• 

When  you  are  ready  to  sow  your  ranunculus  seed,  take  it  out  of 
the  bag,  and  if  the  weather  be  damp,  spread  it  thin  upon  a  sheet  of 
paper,  before  a  moderate  fire,  till  it  is  just  warm,  and  no  more;  then 
rub  it  out  and  clean  it  perfectly  from  any  pieces  of  the  stalk,  dried 
petals  of  the  flower  or  other  extraneous  matter,  which,  if  sown  with 
it,  would  create  a  mouldiness  of  very  destructive  consequence. 

The  last  ten  days  of  December,  any  time  in  January,  or  even  the 
first  week  of  February,  the  seeds  may  be  sown,  but  when  convenient, 
the  early  sowing  is  preferable.  Each  kind  should  be  sown  separately 
in  shallow  frames  (of  either  one,  two,  or  three  lights,  according  to 
the  quantity),  provided  with  glasses,  similar  to  those  made  use  of 
for  cucumbers  and  melons ;  the  soil  should  be  taken  out  at  least  two 
feet  deep,  and  replaced  with  good  and  suitable  soil  such  as  is  di- 
rected on  page  564 ;  out  of  which  the  earth-worms  should  be  care- 
fully picked,  for  these  are  extremely  destructive  to  the  young  plant, 
which  they  draw  from  a  considerable  distance  into  their  holes  for 
nutriment. 

When  the  pit  is  filled,  so  as  to  reach  about  six  inches  up  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  frame,  it  should  be  suffered  to  remain  a  few  days  to 
settle ;  then  the  surface  should  be  made  perfectly  smooth  and  even, 
and  the  seed  sown  upon  it  with  the  utmost  regularity,  in  such  quan- 
tity as  nearly  to  cover  it,  for  accidents  will  befall  many  of  them ;  the 
glasses  should  be  placed  on  immediately,  and  the  frame  kept  closely 
covered  with  them  for  two  or  three  days,  till  the  seeds  begin  to  swell, 
observing  to  cover  the  glasses  effectually  at  night  and  in  severe  wea- 
ther, to  keep  out  the  frost,  and  also  line  the  outside  of  the  frame  all 
around  to  its  full  height  with  tan,  leaves,  or  horse- dung,  for  a  simi- 
lar purpose :  a  little  light  earth  should  then  be  sifted  over  the  seed 
through  a  fine  sieve,  but  not  sufficient  to  cover  it ;  this  should  be  re- 
peated once  or  twice  a  week  till  the  greater  part  of  the  seed  disap- 
pears. It  is  proper  to  remark  in  this  place  that  such  seed  as  happens 
to  be  covered  deeper  than  the  thickness  of  a  dollar  will  never  vege- 
tate, and  must  of  course  inevitably  perish. 

It  is  necessary  to  keep  the  seed  moderately  moist  by  gentle  occa- 
sional waterings  with  soft  water,  that  has  been  exposed  to  the  sun  or 
to  fire  heat  till  the  cold  chill  is  off;  this  should  be  given  from  the 
rose  of  a  small  watering  pot,  which  rose  should  be  of  a  hemispheri- 
cal form,  and  perforated  with  very  small  holes  that  will  discharge 
fine  streams  of  water  in  a  very  distinct  and  regular  manner ;  this 
should  be  made  of  copper,  it  being  less  liable  to  corrode  than  iron. 

But  although  it  is  necessary  to  the  vegetation  of  the  seed  that  it 
be  kept  moderately  moist,  too  great  a  degree  of  moisture  is  never- 
theless injurious,  especially  to  the  commencement  of  the  spring  heat, 
and  indeed  at  any  period. 

When  the  young  plants  begin  to  appear,  which,  if  sown  in  De- 


DEO.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  609 

cember  or  early  in  January,  will  generally  happen  about  the  latter 
end  of  February,  earlier  or  later,  according  to  the  temperature  of 
the  weather  and  the  care  taken  of  the  frame,  refresh  them  occasion- 
ally with  gentle  waterings,  and  give  them  air  at  every  favorable  op- 
portunity ;  but  be  sure  to  keep  the  glasses  close  in  very  cold  weather, 
and  well  covered  at  night ;  observing,  also,  as  the  sun  gets  powerful, 
to  screen  the  plants  from  its  mid-day  influence,  which  sometimes 
would  in  one  hour  destroy  the  whole. 

As  the  spring  advances,  more  and  more  air  must  be  admitted,  and 
on  fine  days  the  plants  totally  exposed,  except  to  a  scorching  sun, 
so  as  to  have  them  by  the  latter  end  of  April,  or  as  soon  as  the 
smart  night  frosts  are  over,  so  hardened  as  to  bear  the  open  air  night 
and  day  ;  observing  to  keep  them  regularly  watered,  and  to  give  them 
the  advantage  of  fine  warm  showers  of  rain,  when  such  happen  in 
due  time. 

This  kind  of  management  is  to  be  continued  till  the  roots  are 
matured,  always  taking  care  to  protect  the  plants  by  a  screen  of 
hurdles  or  thin  bass-mats  laid  over  the  frame  from  the  too  powerful 
influence  of  the  sun,  but  never  keeping  this  covering  over  them 
longer  than  necessary.  Their  maturity  will  be  known  by  the  foliage 
becoming  brown,  dry,  and  nearly  consumed,  which  generally  hap- 
pens in  the  middle  States  towards  the  latter  end  of  June,  or  early  in 
July. 

The  speediest  and  safest  method  of  taking  up  these  small  roots,  is 
to  pare  off  the  earth  three  inches  deep,  having  previously  picked  off 
the  dried  leaves  and  any  other  extraneous  matter  that  may  be  found 
on  the  bed.  The  earth  and  roots  thus  collected  are  to  be  thrown 
into  a  fine  wire  sieve  that  will  not  permit  the  smallest  roots  to  pass 
through  it,  which  is  to  be  worked  in  a  large  vessel  or  tub  of  water 
nearly  filled :  the  earthy  parts  will  dissolve  and  wash  away  and  the 
roots  remain  in  the  sieve,  which  may  be  easily  picked  from  the 
stones,  &c.  The  upper  rim  of  the  sieve  must  at  all  times  be  held 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  otherwise  some  of  the  small  roots 
will  float  over  and  be  lost.  The  roots  are  then  to  be  dried  and  pre- 
served, as  directed  for  the  large  roots  on  pages  407  and  408,  till  the 
latter  end  of  September  or  early  in  October,  when  they  are  to  be 
planted  and  managed  as  on  pages  564  and  565  ;  observing  that  they 
(being  small)  may  be  planted  somewhat  closer  than  the  large  roots, 
and  will  not  require  to  be  covered  quite  so  deep. 

The  ensuing  season  several  of  the  largest  roots  will  flower,  espe- 
cially the  ranunculuses,  and  all  of  them  the  third  year,  at  which 
time  you  should  carefully  mark  such  as  are  worthy  of  being  pre- 
served ;  the  others  may  be  planted  in  small  clumps  in  the  warm  bor- 
ders of  the  garden  and  pleasure-grounds,  there  to  take  chance.  The 
valuable  kinds  must  be  subsequently  increased  by  offsets. 

Those  who  desire  to  raise  these  plants  upon  a  small  scale,  may 
sow  the  seeds  in  boxes,  large  pots,  or  garden  pans,  of  good  compost, 
observing  to  have  the  bottoms  of  the  boxes,  previous  to  their  being 
filled,  bored  with  several  auger  holes,  which  are  to  be  covered  with 
shells  or  the  like,  to  suffer  any  extra  moisture  to  pass  away,  freely. 
But  the  former  method  is  much  more  preferable. 


610  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [DEC. 


SOWING  AURICULA,  POLYANTHUS,  AND  CYCLAMEN  SEEDS. 

The  surest  and  best  method  to  obtain  fine  auriculas  from  seed,  is 
as  follows  :  In  the  first  place  the  seed  should  be  saved  from  young, 
healthy,  strong  plants,  of  capital  high-colored  sorts,  possessing  the 
first-rate  properties  :  these,  on  the  approach  of  bloom,  should  be' de- 
tached from  the  rest,  to  some  distant  part  of  the  garden,  for  fear  of 
the  farina  of  indifferent  sorts  contaminating  them,  and  there  exposed 
to  the  full  air,  the  sun  (except  when  too  violent),  and  moderate  rains ; 
from  an  excess  of  which,  the  plants  are  to  be  protected  by  mats  laid 
on  hoops,  or  by  small  hand-glasses.  In  dry  weather  these  plants 
must  be  regularly  watered,  as  often  as  they  appear  to  require  it : 
much  depends  on  a  due  attention  to  this  particular  point. 

The  seed  will  commonly  ripen  in  June ;  it  is  advisable  frequently 
to  visit  the  plants  at  that  season,  and  carefully  to  gather  such  pods 
or  heads  of  seed  as  appear  perfectly  dry,  brown,  and  begin  to  open ; 
if  -all  the  pods  on  the  same  stem  are  ripe  together  they  may  be  cut 
off  with  part  of  the  stem  to  which  they  are  connected;  but  if  some 
of  the  pods  are  not  sufficiently  ripe,  such  as  are,  should  be  carefully 
picked  from  the  rest  as  they  become  so.  The  seed  thus  collected, 
should  remain  in  the  pericarpiums  or  seed-vessels,  in  a  dry  room,  till 
the  season  of  sowing. 

In  the  last  week  of  December,  any  time  in  January,  or  in  the  early 
part  of  February,  the  seed  may  be  sown  with  every  prospect  of  suc- 
cess, provided  you  have  the  necessary  conveniences.  The  early  sown 
seeds,  if  well  managed,  will  vegetate  better,  and  the  plants  raise  more 
numerously  than  the  late  :  besides,  it  will  be  of  serious  importance 
to  give  the  plants  the  advantage  of  a  long  spring  vegetation,  that 
they  may  be  as  strong  as  possible  before  the  summer  heat  sets  in, 
which  to  seedling  auriculas  and  polyanthuses  is  very  destructive,  and 
even  to  the  full  grown  plants ;  but  if  there  is  not  a  suitable  conve- 
nience, and  an  opportunity  of  paying  the  necessary  attention,  it  will 
be  better  to  defer  the  sowing  till  February. 

A  hot-bed  must  be  prepared,  as  for  early  seedling  cucumbers,  and 
a  good  frame  and  glass-light  set  thereon,  with  five  or  six  inches  of 
fine  earth  laid  all  over  the  bed,  to  keep  down  the  steam.  Provide  a 
box  or  boxes  about  five  or  six  inches  deep,  with  several  holes  on  the 
bottom ;  fill  it  with  compost,  and  gently  shake  and  strike  it  against 
the  ground,  till  the  earth  settles  a  little ;  make  the  surface  perfectly 
smooth  and  even,  and  sow  the  seed  with  the  utmost  regularity;  then 
sift  through  a  fine  wired  sieve  a  little  compost  or  vegetable  mould 
upon  it,  sufficient  only  to  just  cover  the  seed,  and  place  the  box  in 
the  frame  on  the  surface  of  the  bed ;  the  glass  must  be  set  on  im- 
mediately and  the  bed  so  managed  as  to  preserve  a  moderate  and 
equal  degree  of  warmth  both  day  and  night,  but  must  be  occasion- 
ally opened,  or  the  light  raised  up  at  the  higher  end,  to  admit  fresh 
air,  and  to  suffer  the  exhalations  from  the  bed  to  pass  away,  which  is 
a  very  essential  point. 

The  earth  must  always  be  kept  moderately  moist,  both  before  and 
after  the  plants  appear,  but  never  wet ;  the  best  method  of  watering 


DEC.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  611 

it  is  by  means  of  a  hard  clothes-brush  dipped  into  soft  water  which 
has  had  its  chill  taken  off  by  standing  for  some  time  in  the  sun  or  in 
the  frame ;  the  hair  side  being  quickly  turned  upwards,  and  the 
hand  rubbed  briskly  over  it,  will  cause  the  water  to  fly  off  in  particles 
almost  as  fine  as  dew ;  a  sufficient  watering  may  in  this  manner  be 
given  in  a  few  minutes.  If  it  is  found  impossible  to  preserve  a  due 
heat  in  the  first  bed  till  the  seed  has  all  vegetated,  it  will  be  proper 
to  prepare  a  second  into  which  to  remove  the  box ;  but  if  there  are 
cucumber  frames,  &c.,  at  work,  the  box  may  be  removed  into  any  of 
them  that  supports  a  good  temperate  heat. 

At  the  expiration  of  four  or  five  weeks,  if  well  managed,  the  young 
plants  will  have  all  made  their  appearance ;  it  then  becomes  neces- 
sary to  give  them,  very  gradually,  more  air,  in  order  to  harden  and 
render  them  fit,  in  due  time,  for  an  entire  exposure  to  it.  In  the 
month  of  March  the  plants,  if  forward,  should  be  fully  exposed  to 
the  open  air  for  a  few  hours  in  the  middle  of  mild  days,  when  the 
sun  is  not  too  powerful,  but  particularly  to  light  warm  rains.  As  to 
their  subsequent  treatment,  see  the  Flower  Garden  for  April  and  the 
months  following. 

If  you  are  apprehensive  of  the  young  seedlings  being  attacked  by 
snails,  &c.,  which  they  are  very  subject  to,  place  a  hair  band  round 
the  box  when  you  sow  the  seed,  as  directed  on  page  167. 

Polyanthus  seed  and  seedlings  are  to  be  treated  exactly  in  the  same 
manner  as  those  of  Auricula. 

Cyclamen  seeds  of  every  kind  may  be  sown  in  boxes  during  any 
of  the  autumn  or  winter  months,  even  to  the  middle  of  February ; 
but  when  kept  out  of  ground  much  later,  most  of  them  will  not 
vegetate  till  the  spring  following :  they  may  be  treated  generally  as 
directed  on  page  444,  observing  always  to  protect  them  from  frost. 
The  Cyclamen  indicum  being  a  hot-house  plant,  its  seed  must  be 
treated  accordingly :  this  species  differs  from  the  others  in  not  having 
the  divisions  of  the  corolla  or  flower  reflexed  or  turned  back,  but 
hanging  down,  and  in  the  whole  corolla  being  much  larger  than 
either  of  the  Persian  or  European  kinds.  The  former  kinds  will 
require  no  bottom  heat,  but  should  be  carefully  protected  by  a  good 
frame  and  glasses,  well  covered  at  night  and  in  severe  weather,  so  as 
to  prevent  the  earth  in  the  inside  from  becoming  frozen,  but  more  par- 
ticularly after  the  plants  appear;  the  latter  kind  must  be  sown  in 
a  box,  which  is  to  be  placed  in  a  good  hot-bed,  as  directed  for  ane- 
mone seed,  and  constantly  treated  as  a  hot-house  plant ;  or,  it  may  be 
plunged  in  the  bark-bed  of  any  forcing  department  and  there  taken 
proper  care  of. 

DOUBLE  DAISIES. 

Continue  to  protect  and  treat  your  double  daisies  as  directed  on 
page  591.  You  may  now  place  a  few  of  the  best  plants  which  you 
have  in  pots,  in  some  of  the  forcing  apartments,  to  promote  an  early 
bloom. 


612  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN.  [DEC. 


PLANTING  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  should  the  weather  continue  open, 
or  that  it  is  practicable  to  work  the  ground,  you  may  plant  hya- 
cinths, jonquils,  tulips,  double  narcissus,  star  of  Bethlehem,  cro- 
cuses, snowdrops,  or  any  other  hardy  kinds  of  bulbs  that  yet  remain 
out  of  ground ;  but  it  is  wrong,  if  it  can  be  avoided,  to  defer  the 
planting  of  them  to  this  time.  However,  it  will  be  better  at  all 
events,  to  plant  the  above  kinds  now,  should  it  be  practicable,  than 
to  keep  them  up  till  spring :  but  it  will  be  very  proper,  and  indeed 
I  may  say  necessary ;  to  cover  the  newly-planted  beds  immediately 
with  straw  or  other  light  covering ;  for  such  roots  as  have  not  pro- 
duced fibres  before  the  setting  in  of  frost,  are  much  more  vulnerable 
to  it  than  those  that  have. 

Polyanthus-narcissus,  anemones,  or  ranunculuses,  should  not  be 
planted  in  the  middle  or  eastern  States  at  this  season,  unless  they 
are  effectually  protected  afterwards  from  rain,  snow,  and  frost  j  I 
would  rather  advise  to  preserve  them  carefully  in  dry  sand  till  the 
early  part  of  March,  or  even  the  middle  of  that  month. 

PROTECT  SEEDLING  BULBS,  ETC. 

The  various  kinds  of  seedling  bulbs  should  now  be  carefully  pro- 
tected as  directed  on  page  591,  otherwise  many  of  them  will  be  in- 
jured. The  boxes  in  which  were  sowed,  in  the  preceding  months, 
the  seeds  of  bulbous-rooted  flowers,  should  be  treated  in  like  manner. 

PROTECTING  STOCKS,  WALLFLOWERS,  ETC. 

Your  double  stock-gillyflowers,  wallflowers,  and  other  plants  of 
similar  constitutions,  which  are  in  frames,  must  have  protection  from 
rain,  snow,  and  severe  frost ;  and  it  will  be  necessary,  during  winter, 
to  give  them  the  full  benefit  of  the  air  for  a  few  hours  in  the  middle 
of  mild  days,  but  by  no  means  to  expose  them  or  any  other  tender 
plants  to  a  hot  sun  whilst  in  a  frozen  state. 

NEW-PLANTED  SHRUBS  AND  TREES. 

The  more  tender  or  choice  kinds  of  shrubs  and  trees  which  were 
planted  last  spring,  or  in  the  preceding  month,  should  now  have 
their  roots  well  protected  from  frost  by  laying  some  wispy  dung,  or 
long  litter  all  around  the  plants.  Some  kinds  may  even  require  to 
have  their  tops  matted  around,  or  each  to  be  completely  enveloped 
in  a  coat  of  long  straw,  reaching  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the 
plant,  and  terminating  there  in  a  point,  the  whole  assuming  the  form 
of  a  sugarloaf.  The  straw  is  to  be  supported  by  placing  slender  sticks 
in  the  earth  around  the  shrub,  the  tops  of  which  are  to  be  tied  to- 
gether over  it;  a  few  willow  twigs  should  be  worked  in  between 
these  sticks  to  prevent  the  straw  from  falling  in,  or  lying  close  to 
the  plants,  which,  when  laid  on,  is  to  be  bound  around  by  hay  bands, 
willows,  or  the  like. 


DEC.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  613 

Hydrangea  hortensis,  China  and  Otaheite  roses,  prunus  lauro- 
cerasus,  and  small  plants  of  magnolia  grandiflora,  lagerstroemia 
indica,  double  pomegranate,  and  many  other  valuable  shrubs  may  be 
preserved  in  good  condition  by  this  means,  and  ultimately  inured  to 
the  winter  frosts  without  much  injury ;  observe  that  the  covering  is 
not  to  be  disturbed  before  the  middle  of  March  in  the  middle  States, 
or  the  beginning  of  April  in  the  eastern  States;  and  even  then  it  is 
to  be  taken  off  by  piecemeal  and  not  all  at  once,  for  too  sudden  an 
exposure  might  do  them  considerable  injury  should  a  hard  frost  or 
cutting  winds  ensue. 

OTHER  USEFUL  WORK. 

Should  the  weather  prove  open  in  the  early  part  of  the  month, 
you  may  continue  to  prune  hardy  shrubs  and  trees;  spread  your 
compost  heaps  if  not  done  last  month,  and  prepare  more  if  necessary; 
rake  off  the  fallen  leaves  of  trees,  and  dig  among  your  clumps  and 
shrubbery  plantations. 

In  hard  frosty  weather,  when  little  else  can  be  done  in  the  garden 
than  the  covering  and  uncovering  of  tender  plants,  &c.,  prepare  label 
sticks  to  mark  or  number  the  various  flowers  and  seeds  when  they 
are  planted  or  sown,  and  prepare  all  the  tools  and  every  other  neces- 
sary convenience  for  your  spring  operations. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

It  generally  happens  that  the  weather  is  extremely  rigorous  in 
this  month ;  therefore,  more  than  ordinary  attention  must  be  paid  to 
the  green-house  plants.  In  cold  or  frosty  weather  keep  the  windows 
and  doors  closely  shut,  and  close  your  window-shutters  carefully 
every  night,  and  also  in  extremely  rigorous  frosts,  except  while  the 
sun  shines  on  the  windows. 

When  green-houses  are  so  constructed  as  to  have  no  window-shut- 
ters, which  is  certainly  wrong,  large  thick  mats  should  be  hung  and 
nailed,  or  made  fast  by  small  hooks,  in  front  of  the  lights,  every 
cold  night,  and  also  in  the  daytime  when  the  weather  is  very  severe, 
and  no  sun.  It  may  sometimes  be  necessary,  even  when  there  are 
shutters,  to  hang  and  nail  up  mats  in  front  of  the  windows,  to  check 
the  piercing  wind.  If  there  are  short  roof-lights,  they  must  be 
covered  with  mats,  or  strong  canvas,  during  the  continuance  of  severe 
weather ;  these  may  be  so  contrived  as  to  roll  up,  and  fall  down,  by 
means  of  lines  and  pulleys,  at  pleasure. 

During  the  continuance  of  severe  frost,  accompanied  by  piercing 
cutting  winds,  the  windows  must  never  be  opened — that  is,  you  must 
neither  slide  the  lights  up  nor  down,  but  always  keep  them  and  the 
door  or  doors  closed ;  and  any  plants  that  are  too  near  the  glass 
must  be  removed  into  the  interior  of  the  house,  especially  at  night 
and  in  cloudy  dark  weather. 


614  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [DEC. 

If  you  find  the  frost  likely  to  reach  your  plants,  notwithstanding 
all  this  care,  you  must  heat  the  flues  by  gentle  fires  at  night,  and 
also  in  the  daytime  when  the  frost  is  very  piercing  and  the  weather 
dark;  and,  indeed,  without  such  a  convenience  it  is  almost  useless 
to  attempt  the  erection  or  trouble  of  a  green-house,  either  in  the 
middle  or  eastern  States,  on  account  of  their  extremely  rigorous 
winters.  But  you  must  be  particular  never  to  heat  the  air  in  the 
night-time  above  40  or  45  degrees  of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer;  for 
all  the  heat  that  the  plants  require  at  this  season  is  only  just  as  much 
as  will  preserve  them  effectually  from  frost. 

However,  be  very  particular  every  day,  when  the  weather  is  mild 
and  the  sun  shining  on  the  windows,  to  slide  down  the  sashes,  even 
for  but  half  an  hour  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  to  admit  fresh  air  and 
ventilate  the  house  ;  for  if  the  plants  are  kept  too  close  they  will 
become  tender  and  weak,  and  besides  it  will  cause  the  leave's  of 
some  kinds  to  turn  of  a  yellowish  sickly  color,  and  afterwards  to  get 
mouldy  and  drop  off. 

N.  B.  The  plants  must  never  be  deprived  of  light  by  keeping  the 
shutters  closed  a  moment  longer  than  it  is  found  absolutely  neces- 
sary for  their  preservation ;  and  though  I  am  not  an  advocate  for 
much  fire-heat  in  a  green-house,  yet  I  would  prefer  it  to  keeping 
the  plants  too  long  in  darkness,  which  has  an  extremely  bad  effect 
upon  them. 

For  particulars  respecting  watering  and  other  information,  I  would 
recommend  to  your  perusal  at  this  term  the  entire  of  the  article 
green-house  in  January,  and  also  in  February,  pages  98  and  174. 
The  general  care  during  each  of  these  months  is  nearly  the  same. 

The  plants  which  you  are  wintering  in  garden-frames  must  now 
be  carefully  attended,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  594. 


THE    HOT-HOUSE. 

The  frost  generally  sets  in  very  severe  in  this  month,  and  the 
winds  are  keen  and  cutting ;  therefore  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep 
up  your  fire-heat  in  proportion  to  the  severity  of  the  weather,  which 
must  be  regulated  by  a  thermometer,  never  letting  the  air  of  the 
house  in  the  night  or  cloudy  days  be  colder  than  52  degrees  of  Fah- 
renheit, nor  warmer  at  this  season  by  fire  heat  than  62°  or  there- 
abouts— with  sunshine  it  may  rise  to  70°  or  75° — for  it  is  very 
injudicious  to  force  the  plants  now  into  a  fresh  state  of  vegetation. 
All  that  they  want  at  present  is  to  be  kept  comfortably  warm  and 
rather  in  an  inactive  state;  consequently,  as  the  heat  of  the  day  in 
sunny  weather  increases,  you  must  slacken  your  fires  or  put  them 
totally  out,  as  the  case  may  be,  always  renewing  them  in  the  after- 
noon or  whenever  you  find  the  due  warmth  on  the  decline. 

It  will  be  generally  necessary  to  attend  the  fires  till  eleven  or 
twelve  o'clock  at  night,  when,  if  wanted,  a  sufficiency  of  fuel  must 


DEC.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  615 

be  added  to  support  a  proper  degree  of  heat  till  morning;  and  in 
extremely  severe  weather  it  may  sometimes  be  necessary  to  sit  up 
all  night  to  guard  against  untoward  consequences.  At  all  events, 
you  must  be  up  very  early  in  the  morning  to  renew  the  fires. 

If  the  hot-house  is  furnished  with  shutters  or  covering  of  any  kind, 
as  noticed  in  January,  they  will  now  be  of  considerable  use,  both  for 
the  preservation  of  the  plants  and  the  saving  of  fuel.  It  will,  how- 
ever, be  very  proper  to  hang  thick  mats  every  severe  night  in  front 
of  the  upright  sashes,  which  will  prevent  the  wind  from  rushing  in 
immediately  on  the  plants  through  any  deficiencies  that  may  be  in 
the  work. 

If  the  bark  bed  was  properly  made  or  renewed  in  October,  or  in 
the  beginning  of  November,  it  will  yet  be  in  a  proper  state  of  warmth/ 
which  is  now  essentially  necessary;  if,  however,  towards  the  end  of 
the  month  it  is  found  to  be  much  declined  in  heat,  it  should  be 
forked  up  to  revive  it,  as  directed  in  January,  but  more  particularly 
so  if  it  contains  pines  for  fruiting  next  season,  which  must  be  now 
kept  rather  in  a  slow  state  of  vegetation  than  dormant. 

Succession  pines,  or  other  plants  in  pits  or  in  the  succession-house, 
require  the  same  care  as  above,  observing  not  to  force  them  by  too 
much  heat,  lest  the  pines  start  to  a  fruiting  state  at  an  untimely 
period.  They  are  never  fit  to  produce  handsome-sized  fruit  until 
they  are  two  years  old,  at  which  age  they  in  October  should  be  placed 
in  the  fruiting-house  for  the  ensuing  year's  bearing. 

The  pines  and  other  plants  in  the  hot-house,  &c.,  will  still  require 
to  be  watered  occasionally,  the  former  not  oftener  than  once  a  week, 
the  shrubby  kinds  in  small  pots  perhaps  twice  a  week;  but  the  suc- 
culent sorts  should  at  this  season  have  but  very  little,  and  that  only 
when  you  are  able  to  perceive  that  they  are  in  absolute  want  of  it; 
and  then  let  it  be  given  round  the  edges  of  the  pots,  and  not  to  the 
plants  themselves,  for  if  it  should  stagnate  about  the  stems  it  would 
infallibly  rot  them.  The  varieties  of  cactus  melocactus,  or  Turk's 
cap,  with  many  others  of  the  most  succulent  kinds,  should  at  this 
season  have  no  water  given  them,  except  in  cases  of  great  necessity. 

When  there  happens  to  come  a  fine  sunny  calm  day,  it  will  be 
proper  to  admit  some  fresh  air  into  the  house  by  sliding  some  of 
the  glasses,  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  day,  a  little  way  open,  even 
if  but  for  half  an  hour;  but  be  sure  to  close  them  again  in  due  time, 
and  especially  if  the  weather  changes  to  cold  or  cloudy.  This  is  best 
effected  at  this  season  by  sliding  open  a  few  of  the  roof-lights,  if  it 
can  be  done  with  convenience. 

Pick  off  such  decayed  leaves  as  you  perceive  on  the  various  plants, 
keep  them  free  from  insects  and  filth  of  every  kind,  and  the  whole 
house  as  sweet  and  clean  as  possible. 

Sprinkle  your  flues  and  walks  occasionally  with  water  to  raise  a 
comforting  steam  of  moisture  in  the  house ;  especially  when  you  are 
obliged  to  burn  fires  constantly  night  and  day.  This  will  preserve 
the  plants  from  the  bad  effects  produced  by  the  parching  influence 
of  a  constant  fire-heat,  and  also  tend  to  prevent  an  increase  of  in- 
sects. 

You  may,  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  introduce  into 


616  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [DEC. 

the  hot-house  pots  of  strawberries  and  flowering  plants  of  various 
kinds;  sow  cucumber  seed  and  plant  kidney  beans,  as  directed  in 
January,  in  order  to  force  them  into  early  perfection.  Pots  or  tubs 
of  bearing  grape-vines  may  also  be  now  introduced  for  early  bearing 
if  there  are  none  trained  in  from  the  outside.  Such  vines  as  are 
planted  in  front  of  the  house,  and  trained  in  under  the  lights,  should 
have  the  parts  of  their  stems  which  are  exposed  to  the  weather  well 
wrapped  around  with  hay  or  straw  neatly  tied  on ;  also  their  roots 
covered  sufficiently  with  long  litter ;  for,  their  juices  being  put  into 
full  circulation  by  the  forcing  heat,  renders  the  exposed  parts  much 
more  vulnerable  to  frost  than  if  the  entire  plants  stood  inactive  in 
the  open  air. 

Having  now  gone  through  the  work  of  the  several  months,  and  en- 
deavored to  adapt  the  whole  to  the  seasons  and  local  situations  of  the 
different  parts  of  the  Union,  to  explain  and  simplify  the  various 
operations,  and  to  render  the  work  of  as  much  general  utility  as 
possible,  it  is  offered  to  the  public  as  the  result  of  many  years'  ex- 
perience, solely  devoted  to  horticultural  and  botanical  pursuits, 
without  presuming  to  say  that  it  is  either  infallible  or  incapable  of 
improvement. 


A    CATALOGUE 

OF 
KITCHEN  GARDEN  ESCULENT  PLANTS  AND  HERBS. 


COMMON   NAMES. 

ARTICHOKE,  Garden 

1.  Green  Globe.  2.  White  Globe. 
3.  French. 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem 

Asparagus,  the  Garden 

1.  Dutch.  2.  Gravesend.  3.  Bat- 
tersea.  4.  Large  Jersey. 

Bean,  the  common  Garden 

1.  Early  Mazagan.  2.  Early  Lis- 
bon. 3.  Long  Podded.  4.  Com- 
mon Field  or  Horse.  5.  Dwarf 
Cluster.  6.  White  Blossom.  7. 
Red  Blossom.  8.  Large  Windsor. 
9.  Large  Toker.  10.  Broad  Span- 
ish. 11.  Mumford.  12.  Green 
Nonpareil.  13.  Turkey  Long  Pod. 
14.  Green  Genoa,  &c. 

Bean,  the  Dwarf  Kidney 

I.  Early  Yellow  Dwarf.     2.  Early 
Cream-colored  do.     3.  Early  Spec- 
kled do.     4.  Early  White  do.     6. 
Early  Brown-speckled  do.     6.  Ne- 

r  Dwarf.      7.    Large  White  do. 
Purple-speckled  do.     9.  Black- 
eyed   do.      10.    Red-speckled   do. 

II.  Mohawk.     12.  Early  China,  &c. 

Running  Kinds. 

1.  Corn  Beans.  2.  Large  White 
Runners.  3.  Cream-colored  Run- 
ners. 4.  Round  White  Runners, 
Ac. 

Bean,  Scarlet  Runners 
Lima  Beans 
Carolina  do. 

Beet,  The  Common 

1.  Red  Beet 

2.  Long  Red  do. 

3.  Turnip-rooted  Beet 

4.  Yellow-rooted  do. 

5.  Green  or  White  do. 

6.  Mangel-Wurtzel,  or  Root  of 

Scarcity. 
Borage,  Common 
Borecole,  Purple-curled 

Green-curled 

Siberian  or  Scotch 

Brussels  Sprouts 

Finely  Fringed 


BOTANICAL   NAMES. 

Cynara  Scolymus 


Helianthus  tuberosus 
Asparagus  qfficinalis 

Vicia  Faba 


Phaseolus  vulgaris,  v.  Pumilce 


•  v.  volubilis 


Phaseolus  multiflorus 

Phaseolus  lunatus 
v. 

Seta  vulgaris 

v.  mbra  vulgarts 

v.  rubra  major 

v.  rubra,  radice  rapes 

v.  lutea  major 

v.  pallide  virens  major 

Cicla 


Brassica  oleracea  laciniata 
oleracea  selenicea 
oleracea  sabellica 


618 


KITCHEN  GARDEN  ESCULENT  PLANTS,  ETC. 


Broccoli,  Italian 

1.  Early  Purple.  2.  Early  Green. 
3.  Large  Late  Purple.  4.  Large 
White.  5.  Walcheren.  6.  Early 
White  Cape.  7.  Dwarf  Russian,  &c. 

Cabbage,  Heading 

1.  Early  York.  2.  Early  Heart- 
shaped.  3.  Early  Battersea.  4. 
Early  Antwerp.  5.  Early  Dwarf. 
6.  Early  Sugar-loaf.  7.  Large  Late 
Sugar-loaf.  8.  Large  Scotch.  9. 
Large  English.  10.  Large  Drum- 
Head.  11.  Flat  Dutch.  12.  Large 
Late  Battersea.  13.  Red  Pickling. 
14.  Enfield  Market.  15.  Early 
Vanack,  &c. 

Cabbage,  Turnip 

Turnip-rooted 
Jerusalem  Kale 

Cabbage,  Savoy 

1.  Green.     2.  Yellow.     3.  Milan. 

Calabash,  or  Bottle-gourd 

Cardoon,  Spanish 

Carrot,  Long  Orange 

Early  Horn  do. 
Altringham 
Long  Surrey,  &c. 

Cauliflower,  Early 

Late  do. 

Celery,  Italian  upright 

1.  Solid-stalked.  2.  North's  Large. 
3.  Red-stalked  Solid.  4.  Seymour's 
White  Solid,  Ac. 

Celeriac,  Turnip-rooted  Celery 

Chervil 

Chives  or  Gives 

Coriander 

Corn,    Indian.      Twelve-round    sweet. 
Stowell's  Evergreen,  Ac. 

Corn -salad 

Cress,  or  Pepper-grass 

1.  Narrow-leaved.  2.  Broad-leav- 
ed. 3.  Curled-leaved. 

Cress,  Winter,  or  Salad  Scurvy-grass 

Cress,  Water 

Cucumber,  Common 

1.  Early  Frame.  2.  Early  Prickly. 
3.  Early  Cluster.  4.  Long  Prickly. 
5.  Long  Green  Turkey.  6.  Long 
White  Turkey.  7.  Long  Roman. 
8.  White  Spined.  9.  Walker's  Im- 
proved, &c. 

Cucumber,  Round  Prickly 

Egg-Plant 

1.  Purple-fruited. 

2.  White-fruited. 
Endive,  Green-curled 

White -curled 

Broad-leaved 

Batavian 
Finochio 

Garlic,  Cultivated 
Gourd-Squash.     Early  Bush.      Bergen 

Root.     Boston  Marrow,  &c. 
Ground  Nut 
Leek,  Common 

Narrow  leaved 


Brassica  oleracea  italica 


Brassica  oleracea  capitata 


Brassica  oleracea  Napobrassica 
Nap^is  sativa 

Brassica  oleracea  sabauda 

Cucurbita  lagenaria 
Cynara  Cardiwiculus 
Daucus  Carota 


Brassica  oleracea  botrytis 
Apium  graveolens 


Apium  graveolens  rapaceum 
Scandix  Cerefolium 
Allium  Sckcenoprasum 
Coria?idrum  sativum 
Zea  Mays 

Valeriana  Locusta  olitoria 
Lepidium  sativum 


Erisymum  Barbarea 
Sisymbrium  Nasturtium 
Cucumis  sativus 


Cucumis  Angur-ia 
Solamcm  Melongena 


Cichorium  Endivia 


Anethum  azoricum 
Allium  sativum, 
Cucurbita  Melopepo 

Arachis  hypogea 
Allium  Porrum 


KITCHEN  GARDEN  ESCULENT  PLANTS,  ETC. 


619 


Leek,  Broad-leaved 

Lettuce,  or  Salad 

1.  White  Cos.  2.  Green  Cos.  3. 
Egyptian  Cos.  4.  Black  Cos.  5. 
Aleppo.  6.  India.  7.  Brown 
Dutch.  8.  Common  Cabbage.  9. 
Imperial.  10.  Grand  Admiral.  11. 
Hammersmith  Hardy-green.  12. 
Tennisball.  13.  Silesia.  14.  Large 
Royal.  15.  Madeira.  16.  Saxony 
Cabbage,  &c. 

Melon,  Musk 

1.  Early  Romana.  2.  Early  Can- 
taleupe.  3.  Early  Small  Zatte. 
4.  Early  Succado.  5.  Black  Por- 
tugal. 6.  Golden  Rock.  7.  Large 
Mogul.  8.  Minorca.  9.  Large  Afri- 
can. 10.  Rock  Cantaleupe.  11. 
Nettled  Green-flesh.  12.  Japan 
Rock.  13.  Nutmeg.  14.  Mexican. 

15.  Beechwood,  &c. 
Melon,  Water 

1.  Long  Red-flesh.  2.  Long  Yel- 
low-flesh. 3.  Large  Round  Red- 
flesh.  4.  Green-flesh  do.  5.  Sweet 
Mountain,  &c. 

Mushroom 

Mustard,  White 
Black 

Nasturtium,  Large 

Okra 

Onion,  Common 

1.   Strasburg.     2.   White   Spanish. 
3.  Silver-skinned.    4.  Madeira.    5. 
Long-keeping.      6.  Blood-red.     7. 
Welsh. 
8.  Tree. 

Orach,  or  English  Lamb's-quarter 
Large  Green-leaved 
Red-leaved 

Parsley,  Common 
Curled 
Hamburg,  or  Large-rooted 

Parsnep,  Long  Garden 

Patience  Dock 

Pea,  Garden 

1.  Early  Frame.  2.  Sangster's 
Early.  3.  Early  Charleton  do.  4. 
Spanish  Dwarf.  5.  Dwarf  Sugar. 
6.  Bishop's  Dwarf.  7.  Tall  Sugar. 
8.  Woodford's  Marrow.  9.  Blue 
Prussian.  10.  Green  Imperial  Mar- 
row. 11.  Dwarf  Marrowfat.  12. 
Champion  of  England.  13.  Fair- 
beard's  Surprise.  14.  Early  War- 
wich.  15.  Knight's  Dwarf  Marrow. 

16.  Common  Field.     17.  Pearl,  or 
Nonesuch.      18.   Flack's   Victory. 
19.    Albany.      20.     Hare's    Dwarf 
Mammoth.     21.  Large  Marrowfat. 
22.  Ward's  Incomparable 

Pepper,  Red  or  Guinea 

1.  Long-podded 

2.  Heart-shaped 

3.  Bell 

4.  Cherry,  &c. 
Potato,  Common 


Lactuca  sativa 


Cucumis  Melo 


Cticurbita  Citrullus 


Agaricus  eampestris 
Sinapis  alba 

nigra 

Tropceohim  majus 
Hibiscus  esculentus 
Allium  Cepa 


canadense 
Atriplex  hortensis 


cnspum 
latifolium 
Pastinaca  sativa 
Rumex  Patientia 
Pisum  sativum 


Capsicum  annuum 

v.  longioribus  siliqiiis 

v.  cordiforme 

v.  tetragonum 

v.  cerasiforme 
Solanum  tuberomm, 


620 


AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 


Potato,  Sweet 
Pumpkin,  or  Pompion 

Many  varieties. 
Radish,  Garden 

1.  Early  Frame.     2.  Early  Purple 
Short-top.     3.    Salmon   Short-top. 

4.  Common   Salmon.      5.   ;  White 
Short-top.     6.  White   Turnip-root- 
ed.     7.    Red     Turnip-rooted.      8. 
White  Winter  Radish.     9.   Black 
Winter    do.      10.    White    Naples. 
11.  Olive  shaped.  12.  Wood's  Early 
Frame,  &c. 

Radish,  Horse 

Ruta  Baga,  or  Swedish  Turnip 
Rampion,  Esculent 
Rape,  or  Cole-seed 
Rocambole 
Salsafy 
Scorzonera 
Sea-Kale,  or  Cabbage 
Shallot 
Skirret 

Sorrel,  Broad -leaved 
Round-leaved 
Spinage.    1.  Prickly  seeded 

2.  Burdock.     3.  Round-leaved 
Squash,  Warted 

Many  varieties. 

Tomatoes,  or  Love-apple,  Cherry,  Red 
Burlington,  Common  Red, 
Yellow,  &c. 
Turnip,  Cultivated 

1.  Early  Dutch.     2.  Early  Stone. 

3.  Early  Six  Weeks.     4.  Snowball. 

5.  Large    Red-topped.     6.    White 
Round.      7.    Tankard.      8.    Large 
English  Field.   9.  Swedish,  or  Ruta 
Baga.     10.  Long  French. 


Convolvulus  Batatas 
Cucurbita  Pepo 

nus  sativus 


Cochlearia  Armoracia 
Brassica  Rapa 
Campanula  Rapunculus 
Srassica  Napus 
Alliivm,  Scorodoprasum 
Tragopogon  porrifolium 
Scorzonera  hispanica 
Crambe  maritima 
Alliu/m  Ascalonicum 
Sium  sisarum 
Rumex  Acetosa 
scutatus 
Spinacia  oleracea 

Cucurbita  verrucosa 
Solanum  Lycopersicum 


Brassica  Rapa 


AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 


ANISE 
Basil,  Sweet 

Bush 
Caraway 
Clary 
Coriander 
Chamomile 
Dill 
Fennel,  Common 

Sweet 
Hyssop 
Lavender 
Lovage 
Marigold,  pot 
Marjoram,  Sweet 
Pot 

Winter  Sweet 
Mint,  Spear 

Pepper 

Pennyroyal 
Mint,  Horse 


Pimpinella  Anisum 
Ocymum  Basilicum  medium 

•minimum, 
Carum  Carui 
Salvia  sclarea 
Coriandrum  satiwum 
Anthemis  nobilis 
Anethum  graveolens 
Anethum  Fceniculum 

v.  dulce 

Hyssopiis  qfficinalis 
Lavendula  Spica 
Ligusticum  Levisticum 
Calendula  officinalis 
Origanum  jMJajofana 
Onites 

heracleoticum 
Mentha  viridis 
piperita 
Pulegium 
Monarda  punctata 


MEDICINAL  PLANTS. 


621 


Rosemary 
Sage,  Common 
Savory,  Summer 

Winter 
Smallage 
Tarragon 
Thyme,  Common 

Lemon 


Salvia  officinalis 
Satureia  hortensis 

montana 

Apium  graveolens 
Artemisia  Dracuncidus 
Thymus  vulgaris 

serpylhim 


PLANTS  CULTIVATED  FOR  MEDICINAL  PURPOSES,  &c. 


Ague-weed,  Thoroughwort 
Angelica,  Garden 
Betony,  Wood 
Bugloss 

Carduus  benedictus 
Celandine 
Comfrey,  Common 
Cucumber,  Bitter 
Elecampane 
Flax,  Common 
Fenugreek 
Feverfew 
Foxglove 
Gromwell 
Hemlock 
Horehound 
Hound's-tongue 
Liquorice 
Madder,  Dyers' 
Mallow,  Marsh. 
Mugwort,  Common 
Nep,  or  Catmint 
Nettle,  Stinging 
Palma  Christi,  or  Castor-oil  Nut 
Pimpernel 
Pink-root,  Carolina 
Poppy,  Opium 
Rue,  Garden 
Rhubarb,  True  Turkey 
Common 
Scurvy-grass 
Snakeroot,  Virginia 
Southernwood 
Tansy 
Tobacco,  Cultivated 

Common  English 
Weld,  Woad,  or  Dyers' -weed 
Winter  Cherry 
Wormseed,  Goosefoot 
Wormwood 
Yarrow 

Sweet  or  Milfoil 


Eupatorium  perfoliatum 
Angelica  Archangelica 
Betonica  officinalis 
Anchusa  officinalis 
Centaurea  benedicta 
Clielidonum  majus 
Symphytum  qfficinale 
Cucumis  Colocynthis 
Inula  Helenium 
Linum  usitatissimum 
Trigonella  Fcenum  Gracum 
Matricaria  Parthenium 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Lithospermum  officinale 
Conium  maculatum 
Marrubium  vulgare 
Cynoglossom  qfficinale 
Glycyrrhiza  glabra 
Rubia  tinctorum 
Althcea  officinalis 
Artemisia  vulgaris 
Nepeta  Cataria, 
TJrtica  urens 
Ricinus  communis 
Anagalis  arvensis 
Spigelia  marilandica 
Papaver  somniferum 
Ruta  graveolens 
Rlteum  palmatum 

Rhaponticum 
Cochlearia  officinalis 
Aristolochia  serpentaria 
Artemisia  Abrotanum 
Tanacetum  vulgare 
Nicotiana  Tabacum 
rusticum 
Reseda  Luteola 
Physalis  Allcekengi 
Chenopodium  anthelminticum 
Artemisia  Absinthium, 
Achillea  Milkfolium 
Ageratum 


622          GRASSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING,  ETC. 


GRASSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING. 

The  following  are  selected  as  the  most  important  and  valuable 
plants  used  in  rural  economy  ;  the  grasses  and  other  plants  cultivated 
for  their  foliage,  are  particularly  such  as  have  been  found  to  merit 
attention ;  a  knowledge  of  their  true  names  is  the  first  step  towards 
obtaining  them,  and  when  obtained  it  is  of  serious  importance  to  cul- 
tivate each  sort  in  the  soil  and  situation  best  adapted  to  its  nature, 
which  is  carefully  pointed  out  in  the  following  list. 

The  judicious  cultivation  of  grasses,  though  the  least  expensive 
and  most  profitable  part  of  husbandry  (for  on  it  every  other  part 
may  be  said  to  depend),  has  hitherto  been  too  much  neglected  by  the 
generality  of  our  farmers,  and  in  this  they  have  been  blind  to  their 
best  interests. 

In  order  to  be  successful,  a  farmer  should  endeavor  to  procure  and 
cultivate  such  grasses  and  other  vegetable  productions  as  are  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  the  various  soils  of  which  his  plantation  is  composed ; 
so  that  every  spot,  from  the  dryest  hill  to  the  wettest  swamp,  may 
be  employed  in  yielding  him  profitable  productions. 

Those  marked  thus  *  are  indigenous,  or  native  plants  of  the  United 
States ;  and  such  as  are  marked  thus  f,  of  the  West  Indies  and 
warmer  parts  of  America. 


GRASSES. 


*Brome,  Purging 

Barnet,  Field 

*Blue 

Canary,  Reedy 

Clover,  Red 
White 
Yellow 

=*Cock's-foot,  Swamp 

^Canadian,  Reedy 

Dog's-tail 

Fox-tail,  Meadow 

Fiorin 

*Fescue,  Flote 
*Tall 
#Meadow 

*Ghreen 

tGhiinea(a) 

*Herd 

Lucern 

Meadow,  Rough-stalked 
Soft 
Water 
^Creeping 
^Smooth-stalked 
*Five-nerved 

Medic,  Yellow 
Hop 


Bromus  purgans  (wet  soil) 
Poterium  Sanguisorba  (dry  good  soil) 
Poa  compressa  (dry  fields) 
Phalaris  arundinacia  (wet  soil) 
Trifolium  pratense  (moderately  dry) 
repens  (rich  dry  soil) 
ochroleucum  (dry  ground) 
Dactylis  Cynosuroides  (swamps) 
Cinna  arundinacea  (moist  soil) 
Cynosurus  cristatus  (dry  ground) 
Alopecurus  pratensis  (moist  soil) 
Agrostis  stolonifera  (wet  or  'moist  soil) 
Festuca  Jluitans  (swamps) 

elatior  (moderately  moist) 
pratensis  (moderately  dry) 
Poa  viridis  (rich  and  tolerably  'moist) 
Panicum  maxirmim,  (strong  warm  soil) 
Agrostis  stricta  (wet  or  moist  soil) 
Medicago  sativa  (a  rich, dry, sandy  loam) 
Poa  trivialis  (moist  soil) 
Holcus  lanatus  (moist  soil) 
Poa  aquatica  (swamp) 
Poa  stolonifera  (wet) 
Poa  pratensis  (dry  soil) 
Poa  nervata  (wet) 
Medicago  falcata  (dry  soil) 
hipulina 


(a)  This  grass  is  by  much  too  tender  to  bear  the  winter  frosts  of  the 
middle  or  eastern  States,  but  succeeds  well  in  Georgia,  and  in  the  warmest 
parts  of  South  Carolina. 


GRASSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING,  ETC.  623 


Oat,  Tall  Meadow 

Yellow 
^Orchard 

fPeruvian  (£) 
Ray,  English 
Saintfoin 

Sweet-scented  Vernal 

Timothy 
Trefoil 


Avena  elatior  (moderately  dry) 

flavescens  (good  dry  ground) 

Dactyhs  glomerata  (orchards  and  mode- 
rately dry  meadow) 

Paspalium  stonoliferum 

Lolium  perenne  (rich  and  tolerable  moist) 

Hedysarum  Onobrychis  (dry  deep  soil, 
but  answers  well  on  poor  ground) 

AntJwxanthum,  odoratum   (moderately 
dry) 

Phleum  pratense  (moist  and  iipland) 

Medicago  lupulina 


GRAINS,  ETC. 


Barley,  Spring 
Winter 

Hordeum  vulgare 
hexastichon 

Two-rowed 

distichon 

Naked 

v.  nudum 

Buckwheat 
Corn,  Indian 

Polygonum  Fagopyrum, 
Zea  Mays 

Guinea 

Holcus  Sorghum 

Broom 

saccharatus 

Millet,  Large 

Panicum  miliaceum 

German 

Germanicum 

Italian 

Italicum 

Oat,  Cultivated 

Avena  Sativa 

Varieties,    1.    White.      2.    Black. 

3.  Brown.     4.  Potato.     5.  Poland. 

6.    Friezland.      7.    Siberian.      8. 

Tartarian. 

Oat,  Naked 

Avena  nuda 

Oriental 

orientalis 

Peas,  Field 

Pisum  sativum 

Rye,  Spring 

Secale  cereale  v.  vernum 

Winter 

v.  hybernum 

Upland 

v.  montanum 

Rice,  Common 

Oryza  sativa  (c) 

Tares,  Common 

Vicia  sativa 

^Tobacco,  Virginian 

Nicotiana  Tabacum 

Teasel,  Fuller's 

Dipsachus  fullonum 

Wheat,  Spring 

Triticum  czstivum 

Winter 

hybernum, 

Egyptian 

compositum 

Weld,  Dyer's 

Reseda  luteola 

Woad,    do. 

Isatis  tinctoria 

Liquorice,  Common 

Glycyrrhiza  glabra 

Potatoes,  Common 

fSweet 
Scarcity  Root 


ROOTS,  ETC. 


Solamim  tuberosum 
Convolvulus  Batatas 
Mangel  wurtzel 


(6)  This  is  nearly  as  tender  as  the  preceding,  and  therefore  not  answer- 
able for  the  middle  or  eastern  States.  The  Avena  elatior  or  tall  oat-grass, 
is,  by  mistake,  called  Peruvian  and  Andes  grass  in  the  County  of  Delaware, 
near  Philadelphia,  and  in  part  of  the  State  of  Delaware,  where  it  is  culti- 
vated ;  it  is  called  meadow  oats  about  Lancaster,  Pennsylvania. 

(c)  There  is  a  variety  of  this  that  grows  well  on  dry  lands,  which  is 
now  cultivated  near  the  Muskingum  and  in  other  parts  of  the  United 
States,  and  is  likely  to  become  of  considerable  importance. 


624          GRASSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING,  ETC. 

Rhubarb,  True  Rheum  Palmatum 

Turnip,  Common  Brassica  Rapa 

Swedish,  or  Ruta  Baga,  \  va- 
riety 


*Cotton 

Flax 

Hemp 


ARTICLES  FOR  MANUFACTURING. 

Gossypium  herbaceum 
Linum  usitatissimum 
Cannabis  sativa 


INDEX. 


A. 


Acacia,  rose,  314 

Aconite,  winter,  366,  523 

Agaves,  375,  418,  529,  571 

Alaternus,  351 

Alcoves,  rural,  83 

Alder,  276,  305 

Alexanders,   or   Alesanders,    214,    340, 

544,  581 

Aletris,  365,  366,  494 
Alkekengi,  363 
Allamanda  cathartica,  483 
Allspice,    Carolina.      See    Calycanthus 

floridus 
Almond,  fruit-bearing,  56,  223,  261,468, 

490 

double -flowering  dwarf,  113,  171 

Aloes,  104,  174,  187,  375,  376,  418,  529, 

571 
Althaea  Frutex,   or  Hibiscus  syriacus, 

268,  286,  314 
Alyssum,  sweet,.  364 
Amaranthus  tricolor,  169,  311,  362,  364, 

412,  451 

tree,  364,  451 

spike,  364,  451 

globe,  364,  451 

Amaryllis,  scarlet,  92,  370,  412,  592 

yellow,  92,  443,  492 

Belladonna,  443,  456,  492,  594 

: —  sarniensis,  414,  443,  456,  492,  594 

Amorpha  fructicosa,  314 

Andromedas,  287 

Anemone,  general  care  and  treatment 

of,  94,  168,  171,  307,  357,  410,  589 

description  of  a  fine  double,  409 

taking  up  the  roots,  443 

method  of  planting  the  best  sorts, 

565,  589 

sowing  seed  of,  605 


Angelica,  garden,  215,  427,  543 

tree,  314 

Anise,  215 

Annual  flowers,  tender,  169,  311,  362, 

363,  412 

hardy,  166,  312,  363,  412 

Antirrhinum.     See  Snapdragon 
Antholizas,  175,  455,  529 
Anthyllises,  476 
Apple-tree,  35,  143,  223,  224,  347,  547, 

586,  603 

40 


Apple-tree,  sowing  kernels  of,  165,  269, 

558 
gathering    and    preserving    the 

fruit  of,  551 

Apricot,  39,  142,  223,  468 
Arbors,  rural,  88,  280 
Arbor  Vitse,  common,  283,  305,  351 
Chinese,  71,  284,  305,  351 


Arbutus  Unedo,  or  Strawberry-tree,  71, 

367,  374,  571 
Arcades,  rural,  88 
Arethusa,  ophioglossoides,  92 
Art  of  improving  different  soils,  327 
Artichokes,  garden,  common    care   of, 

31,  142,  463,  485 

spring  dressing  of,  211,  340 

making  new  plantations  of,  212, 

340 

sowing  seed  of,  213,  340 

varieties  of  213 

•  winter  dressing  of,  582 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem,  222,  340 
to  preserve  in  winter,  580 


Ash,  common  kinds  of,  283,  314,  556 

manna,  299 

round-leaved,  299 


Asclepias,  hardy  herbaceous  kinds,  92, 
355,  452 

curassavica,  483,  494 

Asparagus,  forcing,  27,  128,  582,  601 

spring  dressing  of,  201,  337 

making  new  plantations  of,  201, 


337 


485 


sowing  seed  of,  201,  337 
method  of  cutting,  201 
ordinary  care  of,  337,  393,  424, 


winter  dressing  of,  542,  577 

Asters,  hardy  herbaceous  kinds,  92,  160, 
312,  363,  452 

China,  312,  363,  451 


Aucuba  japonica,  377,  476 

Auriculas,  common  care  of,  93,  167,  308, 

357,  411,  473,  492,  522,  559 

sowing  seed  of,  167,  308,  610 

'  compost  suitable  for,  359 

new  potting  of,  359,  411,  492 

Auriculas,  slipping  for  propagation,  359, 

411,  473,  492 
preparation  for  winter  protection 

of,  590,  607 
Avenues,  82 


626 


INDEX. 


Azaleas,   or  upright  American   Honey- 
suckles, 287,  314 


B. 

Babianas,  175,  529 
Balm,  common,  215,  543 

Moldavian,  363 

of  Gilead,  377 

Balsam,  double  striped,  169,  188,  312, 

364,  451 

Banqueting-house,  rural,  83 
Bark-stove,  104 
Basil,  sweet,  215,  340,  396 
Bay,  sweet,  73,  367 

Beans,  early  Mazagan,   Windsor,    <fec., 
141,  195,  334,  387 

to  top  when  in  blossom,  388 

Beans,  kidney,  to  force,   111,  131,  188, 
616 

in  the   open   ground,  343,  389, 

425,  461,  486 

Lima  and  Carolina,    390,   425, 

488 

Bear's  foot,  523 
Beach-tree,  89,  274,  314,  558 
Beet,  red,  140,  203,  216,  337,  393,  426, 

green  and  white,  203,  393 

to  preserve  in  winter,  580 

Bignonias,  305,  441,  483 
Belladonna  Lilly,  443,  456,  492,  594 
Belvidere,  or  Summer  Cypress,  363 
Benjamin-tree,  314 
Berberries,  56,  244,  551 
Blackthorn,  or  Sloe-tree,  277 
Bladder-nut,  156,  314 
Bladder-senna,  314 
Bladder  Ketmia,  or  Hibiscus  trionurn, 

363 

Blossoms  of  early  wall  fruit-trees,  to  pro- 
tect, 229,  348 
Board-edgings,  92 
Borage,  215,  396 
Borecole,  or  Scotch  Kale,  200,  331,  386, 

423,  460,  484,  578 
Bowers,  rural,  82,  88 
Box  edgings,  common  care  of,  92,  452, 
474,  525,  570 

planting,  316,  368,  525,  570 

clip  or  trim,  369,  452,  474,  525, 

570 

Bridges,  ornamental,  79,  83 
Brinkle's  orange  raspberry,  232 
Broccoli,    Italian    or  Cauliflower,   200, 
333,  387,  423 

to  preserve  for  winter  use,  579, 

Brawallia,  170,  364,  412 

Brussels  sprouts,  332,  386,  423 

Buckthorn,  sea,  305 

Budding  or  Inoculating,  443,  455,  465 

467,  490,  495,  520 
Budding,  methods  of,  469 
Buddleias,  376 
Bulb-glasses,  96 

Bulbs,  planting  various  sorts  of,  96,  308 
471,  524,  566,  590,  612 


Bulbs,  taking  up  early  flowering,  410, 
443 

treatment  of  seedling,  411,  591, 

612 

sowing  seeds  of,  493,  522,  567 

planting  in  glasses  and  pots,  96, 


568,  592 

observations  on  the  late  planting 


of,  25 

Bupthalmum  fructicosum,  454 
Burnet,  garden,  215,  396,  543 


C. 


Jabbage,  care  of  autumn  sown  plants, 

135,  193,  536,  578,  599 
sowing   seed   in   winter,   spring, 

and   summer,   29,   136,  193,  331,  386, 

423,  463,  484 
planting   out  finally,   193,    331, 

387,  422,  460,  484 

planting  large  cabbages  for  seed, 


earthing  up,  387 

tying  up  the  leaves   to  whiten, 


216 


387 


sowing  seed  in  autumn  to  pro- 
duce early  summer  cabbages,  501 

preserving  full  grown  heads  for 


winter  and  spring  use,  578 
Cabinet,  a  plant,  532 
Cabinets,  rural,  88 
Cactuses,  174,  187,  375,  377,  418,  529, 

571 

Calceolarias,  365 
Callicarpa  americana,  376 
Calycanthus  floridus,  289,  314 
Camellia  japonica,  377,  476 
Campanulas,  in  sorts,  313 
nettle-leaved,  365 


Candytuft,  166,  312,  363 

Canker  in  trees,  to  prevent  or  cure,  149, 

151 

Canna  indica,  376 
Canterbury-bells,  167,  313,  452 
Cape  Bulbs,  175,  377,  455,  529 

compost  for,  529 

Capparis,  or  Capre-shrub,  376 
Capsicums,  216,  342,  395,  427,  464 
Caraway,  215,  340,  344 
Cardoon,  Spanish,  214,   340,  397,   427, 

463,  487,  500,  580 
Carnations,  general  care  and  culture  of, 

92,  93,  167,  169,  171,  309,  313,  361, 

364,  411,  446,  472,  492,  521,  560,  590, 

607 

description  of  a  fine  double,  447 

to  card  or  assist  in  blowing,  446, 

447,  472 

laying  and  piping,  448,  449 

Carnations  to  force  into  early  bloom,  113, 

188,  326 

compost  for  best  kinds,  309 

Carrots,  30,  139,  199,  216,  336,  392,  426, 

461 
to  preserve  for  winter  use,  580 


INDEX. 


627 


Cascades,  80 

Cassia,  hardy  sorts,  92 

chamsecrista,  364 

marilandica,  365,  494 

Catalogue  of  Kitchen  Garden  esculent 
plants  and  herbs,  617 

of  aromatic,  pot,  and  sweet  herbs, 

620 

of  plants  cultivated  for  medicinal 

purposes,  621 

•  of  grasses  and  other  plants  used 

in  farming,  622 
Catalpa-tree,  281,  314 
Catchfly,  perennial,  167,  313 

Lobel's,  312,  363 

double,  523 

Caterpillars  on  fruit  trees,  to  destroy,  402 
Caterpillar  plant,  312,  364 
Cauliflowers,  care  of  autumn  sown  plants, 
29,  133,  192,  537,  578,  599 

sowing  seed  of,   in  winter   and 

spring,  and  subsequent   treatment  of 
the  plants,  29,  133,  134,  192,  331 

early  planting  of,  under  bell  or 

hand-glasses,  192 

time  and  method  of  planting  the 

principal  crop,  329 

sowing  seed  for  late   or  winter 

flowering,  331,  385 

defending  the  flowers  from  sun 

and  wet,  385,  422 

planting  late,  385,  422,  461 

the  proper  time   in   autumn  to 

sow,  502 

winter  preservation  of  full  grown 

plants,  579 

best  method  of  procuring  good 

Cauliflowers  in  the  southern   States 
537. 

Caves,  rural,  83 
Cedar,  red,  157,  275,  351 

of  Lebanon,  71,  284,  351 

white,  283,  351 

Celandine,  215 

Celeriac,  or  turnip-rooted  celery,  200 

580 

Celery,  137,  199,  336,  393,  423,  461,  485 
500 

to  raise  early,  in  the  open  ground 

336 

to  preserve  for  winter  use,  580 

Celsias,  376 

Centaureas,  376 

Chamomile,  double,  167,  215,  313,  493 

543 

Chelone  glabra,  365,  494 
Cherry-tree,  36,  143,  223,  224,  547,  586 

double  flowering,  113,  171,  314. 

Chervil,  208,  340,  396,  501 

Chestnut,   Spanish,  or  sweet,   56,  244 

282,  326,  557 
Chironias,  92 
Chrysanthemum,  451 
Chrysocoma,  376 
Christmas-rose,  523 
Chives,  206,  338,  544 
Cineraria  lanata,  476 


inerias,  376 

istuses,  71,  376 

itron-tree,  495 

lary,  215 

leome,  364 

lethra,  314 

linopodium,  365 

'lumps  of  trees  and  shrubs,  81 

iock's-combs,  311,  376,  451 

lodlins,  550 

Colchicum,  92,  411,  444,  492 
Cold  pit,  a,  380 

ollecting  seeds,  464 
plants,  92,  494 


Columbine,  167,  313 
Colutea,  376 
Composition,  Forsyth'g 
Barnes's  236 


235 


Compost  for  Carnations  and  Pinks,  309 
for  Auriculas  and  Polyanthuses, 


359 

for  Cyclamens,  444 

for  Pine-apples,  480 

for  Tulips,  561 

for  Hyacinths,  563 

for  Ranunculuses  and  Anemones, 

564,  565 

for  the  generality  of  Green  and 


Hot-house  plants,  531 
Comptonia  asplenifolia,  314 
Conservatory,  97 
Convolvuluses,  312,  363 
Coreopsis,  92,  365,  366,  452 
Coriander.  208,  340,  396 
Cork-tree,  290 
Corn,  Indian,  384 
Corn-salad,  488,  501,  576 
Coronilla,  374,  376,  454 
Corrosive  solution,  149 
Cottages,  rural,  83 
Cotyledons,  571 

Crab  and  Apple-tree  hedges,  278 
Crassulas,  370 
Crocuses,  spring,  92,  171,  410,  443,  492, 

524,  567 

autumnal,  411,  444,  492 


Crown  Imperials,  92,  410,  443,  470,  493, 
524,  566 

sowing  seed  of,  493 


Cucubalus  stellatus,  365,  494 
Cucumbers,  in  hot-beds,  19,  22,  124,  128, 

189,  191,  329,  380 

seedling  beds  for,  20 

stopping  or  topping,  127 

impregnating  the  female  flowers 

of,  190 

in  the  Hot-house,  112,  188,  616 

Cucumbers,  under  bell  or  hand-glasses. 

192 
in  the   open  ground,  343,  382, 

459 

for  late  pickling,  460,  487 

serpent,  364 

squirting,  364 


Curculio,  to  prevent  the  ravages  of,  151 
Currants,  pruning,  43,  146,  230,  439 
planting,  49,  230,  584 


INDEX. 


Currants,  propagating,  73,  158,  306,  584 

sowing  seed  of,  584 

Cuttings,  to  propagate  trees  and  shrubs 

by,  73,  158,  304,  351,  520,  555,  570 
Cyanella,  175,  529 
Cyanus,  312,  363,  493 
Cycas  revoluta,  529,  571 
Cyclamen,  376,  444,  456 

propagating  by  seed,  445,  611 

indicum,  444,  610 

Cypress,  deciduous,  283 

evergreen,  71,  367,  571 

Cypripediums,  92,  366,  494 


D. 


Daffodils,  566 

Daisies,  double,  113,  171,  311,  366,  568, 

591,  611 

Daphne  odora,  571,  594 
Dens  Canis,  or  Erythronium  Dens  Canis, 

410,  471,  524,  566 
Dictamnus,  or  Fraxinella,  366 
Diervilla,  304,  314 
Dill,  216,  340,  544,  581 
Dodecatheon  Media,  366,  494 
Dogwood,  314 
Dolichos,  purple.  364,  376 

white,  364,  376 

Dracocephalums,  92,  167,  366,  452,  493, 

523 

Draining  of  land,  57,  115 
Drawing-frame  for  flowering  plants,  362 
Dry  stove,  109 


Early  crops,  prepare  for,  17 

Edging-iron,  90 

Edgings,  methods  and  time  of  planting, 

316,  368,  570 

of  boards,  91 

Egg-plant,  or  Solanum  Melongena,  342, 

395,  427,  464 

particular  account  of,  342 

Elder,  276,  305 

Elm-tree,  82,  274,  314,  556 

Endive,  343,   395,   426,  460,  486,  500, 

541 

to  preserve  for  use  in  winter,  580 

Engine,  garden,  for  watering,  347 
Ericas,  or  Heaths,  113,  374,  476 
Erodiums,,  476 
Erythronium  americanum,  494,  567 

Dens  Canis,  410,  471,  524,  566 

Espalier  fruit-trees,    advantage    of  and 

method  of  forming,  32 
to  train  in   the  Nursery  while 

young,  34,  68,  223,  224 
Euonymus,  or  Spindle-tree,  314 
Eupatoriums,  494 

Euphorbias,  187,  375,  376,  418,  494 
Evergreen  trees   and   shrubs,  planting, 

315,  351,  367,  520,  526,  558 

i          to  trim  in  summer,  442,  521 


F. 


Fastolf  and  red  Antwerp  raspberries,  232 
Fennel,  common,  215,  543 

sweet,  215 

Azorian,  216,  340,  487 


Fenugreek,  215 

undulata,  &c.,  376 


Feverfew,  167,  215,  313 
Fig-trees,  planting  and  propagating,  226, 
550 

pruning,  225,  432 

the  different  varieties  of,  227 

care  of,  489,  585 


Filbert-tree,  56,  244,  261,  550 

to  graft,  260,  261 

pruning,  433 


Finochio,  216,  340,  487 
Fir-trees.     See  Pines  and  Firs 
Flos  Adonis,  166,  312,  363 
Flower-de-luce.     See  Iris 
Flower  Garden,  to  lay  out,  91 

work  to  be  done  in,  for  January, 


74.  February,  166.  March,  307.  April, 
354.  May,  406.  June,  443.  July,  471. 
August,  492.  September,  521.  Octo- 
ber, 559.  November,  589.  December, 
606 

Flowering-shrubs,  to  train,  68 

Forcing-frames  for  fruit-trees,  &c.,  the 
construction  and  various  kinds  of,  with 
the  methods  of  working  them,  46  to  55 

for  flowers,  47,  171 

Forcing  early  fruit-trees,  47,  53,  147, 
234,  326,  349,  603 

flowers  in  the  Hot-house,  &c.,  96, 


113,  171,  326,  606,  616 

flowers,  in  hot-beds,  97,  174,  606 

Forest-trees     and      ornamental     hardy 

shrubs,  sowing  seeds  of,  165,  305,  351 

training  when  young,  68 

planting,  71,  305,  314,  349,  366, 


557,  569,  587,  593 
Foss,  87 

Fothergilla  alnifolia,  314 
Fountains,  rural,  83 
Fowls,  barn-door,  their  use  in  Orchards, 

150,  153 

Foxglove,  167,  313 
Framing,  introduction  to,  19 
Framing-ground,  21 
Franklinia,  289 
Fraxinella,  366 
French  Honeysuckle,  167 
Marigold,  451 


Fringe-tree,  287,  314 
Fritillaries,  92,  410,  443,  471,  493,  524, 
567 

sowing  seed  of,  491,  521 


Fruit,  thinning  of,  399 

to  preserve  for  winter  keeping, 


551,  558 

preserving  the  stones  of,  to  plant, 


491,  551 

preserving  the  kernels  of,  551 

planting  or  sowing  the  stones  of, 


159,  269,  521,  558 


INDEX. 


629 


Fruit,  sowing  the  kernels  of,  165,  269, 

274,  558 
Fruit -trees,  newly  grafted,  care  of,  351, 

405,  443,  465,  491 

fancy  training  of,  144  to  146 

grafted  or  budded  the  preceding 

year,  care  of,  268,  269,  405 
budded   in  the   present  season, 

care  of,  491,  521 
luxuriant  and  unfruitful,  how  to 

bring  to  a  bearing  state,  150 
to  correct  roughness  in,  and  re- 
new the  bark  of,  553 
Fuchsia  coccinea,   176,   326,  377,  454, 

571 
Fumigating  the  Hot-House,  &c.,  183,  529 


G. 


Galega  virginiana,  365,  366,  494 
Galleries,  of  hedge-work,  88 
Garden,  laying  out  a,  475 
Gardenias,  377 
Garlic,  206,  338,  544,  578 
Geissorhiza  obtusata,  175,  529 
Genistas,  376 
Gentianas,  366,  494 
Gentianella,  167,  314,  493 
Geraniums,  176,  377,  454,  476 
Gerardias,  92,  365,  366,  494 
Gladioluses,  hardy,  96,  567 

tender,  175,  455,  529 

Glass  most  preferable  for  hot-bed  lights, 

19 

Glass  case  for  flowering  plants,  363 
Glycines,  494 
Gnaphaliums,  494 
Goat's-rue,  365 
Golden-rod,  167,  313 
Good  and  bad  pruning  of  forest-trees, 

59 
Gooseberry-trees,  pruning  of,  43,  146, 

230,  438,  549,  584 

planting,  146,  230,  548,  584 

propagating    by    cuttings,    306, 

549,  584 

propagating  by  seed,  549,  584 

soil  most  suitable  for,  306 

Gordonias,  289 

Gourds,  383 

Graft,  the  impostor's,  401 

Grafting,  the  proper  time  for,  259 

preliminary  instructions  for,  259 

to  264 

stocks  adapted  for,  260 

when  to  take  off  the  scions  for, 

260 

choice  of  scions  or  grafts,  261 

scions  not  to  be  taken  from  sickly 

trees,  59 

tools  used  in,  262 

clay,  how  to  prepare,  262 

the  various  methods  of,  263  to 


various  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs, 

268,  302,  351,  353 


Grafting,    by    approach    or    inarching, 
267,  353,  376 

forest-trees      and      ornamental 


shrubs,  305 

hollies,  353 


Grapes,  the  methods  of  preserving  them 
fresh,  516 

of  curing  them  for  raisins,  515 


Grape-vines.     See  Vines. 

Grass-walks  and  lawns,  general  dispo- 
sition and  care  of,  76,  91 

methods    of  making   or  laying 

down,  317 

Grass-slopes,  89 

Gravel-walks,  general  disposition  of,  76 
to  91 

methods  of  making  372 


Green-House,  to  erect  or  construct,  98 
work  to  be  done  in  for  January, 

103.      February,    174.     March,    321. 

April,    374.     May,    415.     June,   453. 

July,  476.    August,  495.    September, 

527.     October,  571.     November,  594, 

December,  613 
Green-House  plants,  shifting,  323,  375, 

415,  478,  495 

sowing  seeds  of,  175,  323,  376 

heading  down,  322,  376,  416 

by  cuttings,  &c.,  176, 


324,  377,  454,  476' 

when  to  bring  out,  415 

when  to  take  in,  527,  571 

to  winter  in  garden-frames,  572 

Gromwell,  215 

Grottoes,  rural,  77,  83 

Groves,  82 

Guernsey  Lily,  414,  443,  455,  492,  494 

Guilandinia  dioica,  314 

Gum  in  fruit-trees,  to  remedy,  466 


n. 


Ha-ha,  what,  84 

Hanging  vases,  354 

Hawk-weed,    purple    and   yellow,  166, 

364 

Haws,  how  to  prepare,  for  sowing,  160 
Hawthorn,  the  various  species  of,  best 

adapted  for  hedges,  162 
quicks  or  plants,  how  to  raise, 

160,  270 
time  of  sowing  in  the  Southern 

States,  556 

hedges.     See  Hedges. 


Heading  down  declining  fruit-trees,  237 

budded  stocks,  269 

Heart's-ease,  363 

Heaths,  African,  Ac.,  113,  374,  476 
Hedges,  live,  the  necessity  and  utility 
of,  270 

how  to  make,  271,  272 

plants  suitable  for,  162,  274,  277 

time  of  planting  and  making,  271, 


570,  593 

observations  on,  278 

how  to  plash,  279,  593 


630 


INDEX. 


Hedges,  time  of  clipping,  273,  474,  525, 
570 

particular  instructions   for  clip- 
ping, 280,  525 

Hedge-hog  plant,  312,  364 

Hedysarums,  hardy,  365,  366,  494 

Helleborus  hyemalis,  523 

niger,  523 

virides,  523 

foetidus,  523 

lividus,  523 

ranunculinus,  523 

Helianthuses,  494 

Heliotropium  peruvianum,  377,  454 

Hemerocallis,  366 

Hepatica,  167,  313 

Herbs,  gathering,  215,  464,  487 

Hermannias,  476 

Hermitages,  83 

Heuchera,  365,  494 

Hibiscuses,   herbaceous  perennial,  365, 
366,  452,  494 

Hibiscus  Rosa  sinensis,  580 

Hogs,  their  use  in  Orchards,  150,  153, 
154,  466 

Holly,  165,  275,  351,  556 

to  graft  curious  kinds  of,  353 

Hollyhock,  common,  167,  312 

China,  312,  364,  451 

Honesty,  or  Satin-flower,  313 

Honeysuckles,  113,  158,  171,  305,  314 

French,  167,  313 

Honeywort,  312,  364 

Horehound,  215,  543 

Hornbeam,  274,  314,  556 

Horn-plant,  312,  364 

Horsechestnut,  282 

Horseradish,  217,  340,  546 

Horseshoe  plant,  312,  364 

Hot-beds,  method  of  making,  18 

for  seeding  cucumbers,  &c.,  19 

for    sowing    curious    trees   and 

shrubs  in,  165 

for  raising  Green-House  plants, 


175 
made  of  leaves,  or  leaves  and 

dung,  576 
Hot-bed  frames  and  lights,  construction 

of,  18 

ridges,  to  make,  329 

Hot-house  or  Stove,  general  instructions 

respecting  the  construction  of,  104  to 

109 
work  to  be  done  in  for  January, 

110.     February,    176.     March,    324. 

April,    377.     May,   417.  'June,  456. 

July,  479.    August,  496.    September, 

529.     October,  573.     November,  596. 

December,  614 
Hot-house  plants,  to  propagate,  326,  379, 

418,  456 

sowing  seeds  of,  326,  380 

to  bring  out,  418 

to  take  in,  530 

to  winter  in  Garden-frames,  575 

Hot-walls,  the  construction  and  use  of, 

55 


Hyacinths,  planting  and  care  of,  92,  94, 
168,  171,  307,  354,  407,  443,  589 

properties  of  a  fine  double,  354 

best  method  and  time  of  plant- 


ing, 562,  589 

sowing  seed  of,  493,  522 

musk,  567 

feathered,  567 

starry,  567 

grape,  567 


Hydrangea  hortensis,  176,  326,  377,  416, 

454,  571,  594 
Hypoxis,  494 
Hyssop,  215,  427,  487,  543 


I&  J. 

Jacobea  Lily.  See  Amaryllis,  scarlet 
Jasmines,  171,  305,  374,  377,  442,  454 
to  bud,  471 


Ice-plant,  169,  311,  412 
Jerusalem  Kale,  332,  423 
artichoke,  222,  580 


Impregnating  the  female  flowers  of  early 
cucumbers  and  melons,  190 

Inarching,  267,  353,  376,  416,  496 

Indigo,  376 

Insects  which  infest  the  Hot-House,  de- 
scriptions of  and  methods  of  destroy- 
ing, 176  to  184 

on   fruit-trees,  to   destroy,  347, 


400,  411 
Inoculating   or  budding,   methods    of, 

467 
time  of,  &c.,  443,  455,  465,  467, 

489,  495,  520 
Jonquils,  92,  96,  308,  566 
Ipomoea  Quamoclit,  92,  170,  311,  412 
scarlet,  364 


Iris,  Spanish  and  English  bulbous,  92, 
471,  492,  524,  566 

dwarf  Persian,  171,  471,  492,  524, 


566 


523 


•  sowing  seeds  of,  493 
flag-leaved,  in  sorts,    313,  492, 

snake's-head,  567 


Judas-tree,  287,  314 
Juniper,  165,  275,  305,  350 
Justicias,  374,  377 
Ixias,  bulbous,  175,  455,  529 
Chinese,  365,  452 


K. 

Kale,  sea,  208,  339,  544,  581 

Jerusalem,  332,  423. 

Scotch.     See  Borecole. 


Kalmias,  287,  351 

Kernels  of  fruit-trees,  to  sow,  165,  269, 

274,  558 

Kidney-beans.     See  Beans. 
Kidney-bean  tree,  Carolina,  305 
Kitchen-Garden,  plans   or  designs  for, 

114 


INDEX. 


631 


Kitchen-Garden,  situation,  soil,  water, 

extent,  &c.,  115 
fences  suitable  for,  117 

preparing   and   laying   out   the 

ground,  117 

general  culture   and  manuring 

of,  115  to  123 

work  to  be  done  in  for  January, 

17.  February,  123.  March,  189. 
April,  327.  May,  381.  June,  421. 
July,  459.  August,  484.  September, 
498.  October,  534.  November,  576. 
December,  599 


L. 


Label  sticks,  to  make,  68,  70 

Labelling  the  plants,  498 

Laburnum,  286 

Labyrinths,  88 

Lachenalias,  175,  529  • :  t 

Lagerstroemia  indica,  377,  571,  594 

Land,  rationale  of  draining,  319 

Lantanas,  483 

Lapeyrousias,  175,  529 

Larch-tree,  284 

Large  trees,  how  to  remove,  243,  593 

Larkspur,  annual,  166    363 

Bee,  312,  313  ' 

Lavatera,  166,  312,  363 

Lavender,  common,  215,  487,  543 

Lavendulus,  tender,  476 

Laurel,  Portugal,  71,  73,  305,  367,  377, 

571 
English  or  Levant,  71,  73,  305,  367,  377, 

571,  594 
Laurustinus,  or  Viburnum  Tinus,  367, 

374,  377,  416,  571,  594 
Lawns.  See  Grass-lawns. 
Layers,  the  several  methods  of  making, 

300 

when  to  make,  take  off,  plant, 

Ac.,  73,  158,  351,  405,  520,  555,  570 

Leatherwoocl,  314 

Leaves,   preparation   of,   to   make   hot- 
beds, Ac.,  576 
Leeks,  to  sow,  205,  337 

to  transplant,  424,  464 

Lemon-trees,  to  shift,  322,  375,  478,  495 

ordinary  care  of,  174,  321,  374, 

377,  415,  474,  571 

to  prune  or  head  down,  321,  376 

to  inoculate,  455,  495 

to  inarch,  416 


Lettuces,   26,   138,   139,  196,   334,    389, 

425,  462,  486,  499,  534,  577,  600 
Liatrises,  365,  494 
Lilac,  common  purple  and  white,  314 

Persian,  314 

Lilies,  sowing  seeds  of,  493 
Lilium  superbum,  494,  524,  566 

canadense,  494,  524,  566 

Catesbsei,  566 

chalcedonicum,  494,  524,  566 

pomponium,  566 

japonicuin,  566 


jilium  Martagon,  566 

aly,  white,  492,  524,  566 

red,  492,  524 

of  the  Valley,  313 

ame  or  Linden-tree,  283,  301,  314,  555 
Lime-tree,  fruit-bearing,  495,  571 
~  imodorum  tuberosum,  92,  494,  567 
Liquorice-root,  its  general  culture,  218, 

341 

Lobelia?,  92,  167,  313,  365,  494 
Locust-tree,  common,  282 

honey,  or  three-horned  Acacia, 

274,  314 

London-pride,  167,  313,  523 
Loveage,  215,  427,  543 
Love-apple.     See  Tomatoes. 
Love-lies-bleeding,  364 
Lungwort,  Virginian,  523 
Lupins,  363 
Lyciums,  376 
Lychnadea.     See  Phlox. 
Lychnis,  dwarf,  166,  312,  363 

scarlet,  166,  313,  493,  523 

double  scarlet,  97,  413,  452,  523 

Lysimachias,  494 


M. 

Magnolias,  methods  of  propagating,  287 

planting,  314 

Magnolia  grandiflora,  71,  594 
Mallow-marsh,  215,  543 

oriental,  166,  363 

Peruvian,  363 

curled,  312,  363,  364 


Mangel  Wurtzel,  203 

Manna,  officinal,  to  procure,  299 

Maples,  of  various  kinds,  281,  301,  314, 

555,  558 
Marigold,  pot,  215,  396 

Cape,  364 

French,  451 

African,  451 

Marjoram,  pot,  215,  340,  396,  427,  543 

sweet,  or  knotted,  215,  340,  396 

Martagons,  471,  492,  524 

what  lilies  are  properly  called, 

566 

Martynia,  annua  or  probosidea,  364 

Marvel  of  Peru,  364 

Massonias,  175,  529 

Mastich,  487 

Medicated  tar,  how  to  prepare,  58 

application  and  use  of,  58,  149 

Medlars,  244,  261 

snowy,  286,  314 


Melanthiums,  Cape,  175,  529 

•  American,  494 

Melasphserulas,  175,  529 
Melias,  376 
Melianthuses,  376 

Melons,  preparations  for  raising  in  hot- 
beds, 19,  123 

true  Cantaloupe  kinds  described, 


20 


age  and  preparation  of  seed,  21 


INDEX. 


Melons,  sowing  the  seed  and  general 
care  of,  22,  123,  128,  191,  328,  382 

stopping  or  topping  the  plants, 

127 

impregnating  the  female  flowers 

of,  191 

raising  in  hot-bed  ridges,  329 

sowing  and  care  of,  in  the  open 

ground,  343,  382,  421,  459,  487 

sowing  for  mangoes,  460 

water,  343,  383,  422 

Mesembryanthemums,    169,    174,    187, 

375,  376,  412,  418,  571 
Mezereon,  165,  575 
Mignonette,  170,  188,  312,  364 
Mimosas,  376.    See  also  Sensitive  Plant. 
Mint,  spear,  forcing,  27,  542 

in  the  open  ground,  215,  543 

pepper,  215,  543 

cat  or  Nep,  215,  543 

Monardas,  92,  365,  366,  493 

Monk's-hood,  167,  313,  452 

Moreas,  175,  455,  529 

Moss,  cleansing  trees  from,  57,  148,  603 

Mulbery  trees,  propagation  of,  &c.,  56, 

275,  292,  301,  305,  550 

paper,  the  method  of  manufac- 
turing paper  from  the  bark  of,  297 

Mushrooms,  care  of,  31,  131,  142,  582, 

601 
description  of  the  cultivated  kind, 

503 

preparations   for  making    new 

beds,  539 

to  collect  the  spawn  of,  504 

making  and  spawning  the  beds, 

539 
Myrtles,  103,  174,  176,  321,  374,  376, 

377,  416,  454,  571 
to  prune  or  head  down,  321,  379 

N. 

Napaja,  366,  494 

Narcissus,  common  kinds  of,  171,  568 

polyanthus,  92,  308,  566 

autumnal,  492 

sowing  seed  of,  493 

Nasturtium,  or  Indian  Cress,  341,  396 

Neapolitan  and  Russian  violets,  567 

Nectarine-trees,  pruning,  38,  142,  223 

budding,  467,  490,  520 

Nettle-tree,  281,  314 

Nettle,  Roman,  364 

New-Jersey  Tea,  314 

Newly  grafted  trees,  care  of,  351,  405, 
443,  465,  491 

'• budded  trees,  care  of,  491,  520 

Nigella,  166,  312,  364 

Nolana  prostrata,  364 

Nursery,  the  importance  and  advantage 
of,  61 

extent,  soil,  and  situation,  62 

fencing,  laying  out,  and  prepar- 
ing the  ground,  63 

method  of  arranging  the  plants, 

65 


Nursery,  general  care  and  culture  of,  67 
work  to  be  done  in  for  January, 

70.     February,    157.      March,    259. 

April,    350.     May,   403.     June,  441. 

July,  467.     August,  490.    September, 

520.    October,  555.     November,  587. 

December,  605 


0. 


Oak-leaves  used  for  making  hot-beds, 

575 
Oaks,  propagation  of,  282,  314,  556 

evergreen,  351 

Obelisks,  rural,  83,  89 
(Enotheras,  369 
Oiled-paper  frames,  134 
Okra,  341,  396,  427 
Olea,  or  Olive,  376 
Oleander,  374,  375,  416 
Onions,  sowing  seed  of,  204,  337 

the  several  varieties  of,  204 

planting  and  care   of,  205,  338, 


394,  426 

tree,  205 

Welsh,  503,  583 

planting  large  roots  of,  for  pro- 
ducing seed,  545 

Ononis  natrix,  476 

Ophryses,  92,  494 

Orach,  garden,  344 

Orange-trees,  general  care  and  culture 
of,  174,  321,  322,  376,  416,  476,  571 

pruning  of,  321,  375 

to  shift,  322,  375,  478,  495 

to  inoculate,  454,  495 

to  inarch,  416 

Orchards,  the  utility  of,  56 

extent,    aspect,    situation,    and 

soil,  238 

preparation  of  the  ground,  239 

manure  suitable  for,  49,  150 

choice  of  young  trees,  240 

times  of  planting,  240,  349,  547, 

553,  586 

method  of  planting,  241,  586 

observations  on  neglecting,  57, 


149 


when  to  prune  and  dress,  57,  149, 
234,  547,  553,  585,  604 

particular  methods   of  pruning, 


56,  57,  58 

when  to  prune  or  head  down  un- 


healthy trees,  58,  234 

how  to  prune  or  head  down  un- 
healthy or  old  trees,  234,  238 

to  prevent  the  ravages  of  insects, 

151 

how  and  when  to  remove  large 

trees,  243,  593 

to  refresh  the  bark  of  fruit-trees, 

553 

to  bring  luxuriant  and  unfruitful 


trees  into  a  bearing  state,  150 

root-pruning  of  use  to  fruit-trees, 


150 


INDEX. 


633 


Orchards,  to  supply  the  place  of  decayed 

trees,  243 

Orchideous  houses,  457 
Orchises,  92,  494,  567 
Ornamental  planting  and  rural  designs, 

74  to  92 
Ornithogalums,  tender,  455 

hardy,  96,  308,  471,  566 

Oxalis  versicolor,  175,  529 
violacea,  494 


P. 


Paeonia,  or  Peony,  366,  492,  523 

Palma  Christi,  364 

Pancratium  maritimum,  567 

Papaw-tree,  282,  314 

Paper  Mulberry-tree,  297 

Paper,  method  of  making  it  from   the 

bark  of  the  Paper  Mulberry-tree,  2^7 
Paper-frames,  method  of  making,  134 
Parsley,  common,  142,  207,  339,  396 
Hamburg   or  large-rooted,  207, 

339,  394,  426 
Parsnep,  140,  199,  216,  336,  392,  426, 

580 

Parterre,  87 

Passion-flower,  305,  377,  442 
Patience  Dock,  583 
Pavilions,  rural,  88 
Peach-trees,  pruning  and  training  of,  39, 

142,  223,  435 

budding  or  inoculating,  467,  489, 


520 


double  flowering,  171,  314 


Pear-trees,  pruning  and  training  of,  35, 
224,  348,  547,  585,  603 

-  grafting,  259,  260 

-  budding,  467,  489,  520 

-  gathering    and    preserving  the 
fruit  of,  551 

-  pinching,  38 

-  sowing  the  kernels  of,  for  stocks, 
165,  269,  558 

Pea-sticks,  to  provide  and  dress,  17 
Peas,  garden,  raising  in  hot-beds,  140 

-  raising  in  the  open  ground,  140, 
194,  195,  333,  388,  424,  464,  485 

-  sticking,  best  method  of,  195 

-  Tangier,  166,  312,  364 
winged,  312,  364 


Pelargoniums.     See  Geraniums. 

Pennyroyal,  215,  543 

Penstemons,  493 

Peppers,  red.     See  Red  Peppers. 

Perennial  and  biennial  flowers,  sowing 

seeds  of;  312,  365,  413 
-  planting   or  transplanting,  313, 

365,  414,  473,  493,  567,  590 
Periploca  grseca,  305 
Persicaria,  312,  364 
Persimmon,  281,  365,  366,  494 
Phillyrea,  351 
Phlomises,  476 
Phloxes,  167,  365,  366,  452,  493,  523 


Pine-Apples,  general  care  and  culture 
of,  110,  184,  324,  377,  418,  456,  479, 
496,  530,  573,  596,  615 

various  sorts  of,  479 

compost  for,  480 

propagation   of,  by  crowns  and 

suckers,  481 

propagation  of,  by  seed,  497 


Pines  and  Firs,  how  to  distinguish  be- 
tween, 284 

the  various  kinds  of,  284,  285 

propagation   of,   by  seeds,   284, 


285,  286,  351 

observations    on    transplanting 


seedlings  of,  in  June,  442 
time   of  trimming   or  pruning, 

521  ' 
Pinks,   general  care   of,    Ac.     See   the 

Flower  Garden  for  the  several  months. 
Pink,  properties  of  a  fine  double,  445 

method  of  piping,  449 

best  time    for    and   manner  of 


planting,  310,  560 

China,  312,  364,  451 


Plane-tree,  281,  305,  314 

Planting  fruit-trees   of   various   kinds, 

229,  240,  346,  348,  547,  553,  584,  586 

Fig-trees,  226 

stocks  to  bud  and  graft  on,  269, 


557,  587 

Gooseberries  and  Currants,  230, 


548,  584 

-  Raspberries,  231,  348,  549,  584 
all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees 


and  shrubs,  305,  314,  351,  366,  557, 
570,  587,  592 

•  hardy  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs, 


315,  351,  367,  520,  526,  558 

large  grown  trees,  242,  593 

seedlings    of    hardy   deciduous 

trees  and  shrubs,  303 
seedlings  of  hardy  evergreens, 

350 

general  observations  on,  300 

Pleasure-grounds,  the  laying  out  of,  74 

to  93 
Plum-trees,  pruning  and  training  of,  36, 

223,  224 

grafting,  261 

budding,  467,  490 


Plumeria  rubra,  481 
Podalyrias,  92,  365,  366,  494 
Poles  for  Grape-vines,  60 
for  Lima  Beans,  18 


Polyanthus,  92,  167,  310,  313,  360,  411, 

473,  492,  493,  559,  590,  607,  610 

description  of  a  fine,  361 

to  propagate  by  seed,  167,  308, 

610 
to  propagate  by  slips,  361,  411, 

474,  492 

Polyanthus-Narcissus,  92,  308,  566 
Polygala  sanguinea,  364 

bracteolata,  476 

senega,  494 


Pomegranate,  416,  572,  594 
Poplars,  275,  305,  314 


INDEX. 


Poppy,  166,  312 

Porticoes,  of  hedge-work,  88 

Pot,  sweet,  and  physical  herbs,  215,  340, 

397,  427 
Potatoes,  common,  217,  341 

sweet,  384,  422 

Poultry,  their  use  in  Orchards,  150,  153 
Primroses,  167,  493 

double,  310,  559,  590,  607 

Primrose-tree,  167,  313 
Prince 's-feather,  364 
Privet,  common,  276,  305 

evergreen  351 

Propagation  by  mere  leaves,  477 

Proteas,  377,  476 

Protecting   roots   of  new  planted   trees 

and  shrubs,  44,  602,  606,  611  ' 

• seedlings  and  tender  plants,  587 

Pruning   espalier   and  wall,   apple  and 

pear  trees,  35,  142,  223,  348,  429,  547, 

586,  603 
plum  and  cherry  trees,  36,  143, 

223,  547,  585 
peach,    nectarine,    and    apricot 

trees,  39,  142,  223 
gooseberry  and  currant  trees,  43, 

146,  230,  549 

raspberries,  45,  146,  231,  550 

fig-trees,  225,  432 

Orchard   or   standard  trees,   56, 

57,  58,  149,  234,  553,  586 

•  young  fruit-trees  under  training, 


67,  223,  224 

fruit-trees,  intended  to  be  forced 

the  ensuing  season,  505 

summer  pruning  and  dressing, 

465  * 

nursery  young  trees,  67,  159 

hardy  flowering  shrubs,  159,  172, 

569,  593 

young  forest-trees,  68,  159 

and   restoring  old  or   declining 


fruit  and  other  trees,  236,  238 

the  vine,  519 

Pumpkins,  383,  422 
Pyracantha,  276,  351 
Pyramids,  rural,  89 


Q. 


Queen's  Gilliflower,  413 

Quicks,  thorn,  for  hedges,  160,  271 

other  sorts  of,  for  the  same  pur 

pose,  274  to  277 
Quince-tree,  56,  165,  223 


II. 


Racer  or  turf-cutter,  318 

Radishes,   30,   137,  197,  335,   391,  425 

463,  484,  500 

Ragged  robin,  double,  313,  493 
Raising  plants  and  cuttings,  113 
Raisins,  methods  of  curing,  515 


Ranunculus,  Persian,  general  care  of, 
Ac.,  92,  94,  168,  171,  307,  357,  409, 
589 

properties  of  a  fine  double,  409 

taking  up  the  roots  of,  443 

preserving  from  frost,  588 

sowing  seed  of,  607 

aconitifolius,  double,  366 

lape,  for  salad.     See  Small  Salading. 
Raspberries,  planting,  231,  348,  550,  584 
pruning,  146,  231,  550 
protecting  tender  kinds  of,  from 


frost,  44,  584 
lecesses,  rural,  77 

Red  peppers,  216,  342,  395,  427,  464 
Rhexias,  92,  366,  452,  494 
Ihododendrons,  287,  351 
Rhubarb,    the   Turkey   or   officinal,   its 
general  culture,  209,  340,  544,  581 

English  or  common,   222,   340, 


544,  581 
Rocambole,  206,  338,  544,  578 
Rock  and  shell  work,  83,  87 
Robinias,  158,  282 
Rocket,  garden,  double,  113,  167,  313, 

413,  452,  523 

particularly  noticed,  413 

night  smelling,  365 


Root-houses,  rural,  83 

Root-pruning  of  trees,  150 

Roses,  forcing  into   early  bloom,    171, 
188 

to  pot,  for  forcing,  569 

propagating  by  suckers,  158 

propagating  by  budding,  443,  470 

propagating  by  layers,  300,  442, 


555 


planting,  314,  316,  368,  569 
used  for  hedges,  276 
China,  416,  454,  594 
Otaheite,  416,  454,  594 


Rose-campion,  97,   167,  '313,  452,  493, 

523 

Rosemary,  215 
Rue,  215,  487 
Rudbeckias,  377,  494 
Rural  seats,  77,  83 
Rustic  devices,  83 
Russia  Turnip.     See  Ruta  Baga. 
Ruta  Baga,  462 


S. 


Saffron,  bastard,  364 

officinal  or  true.     See   Crocus, 

autumnal. 

Sage,  common,  215,  487,  543 
Salading,  small,  28,  132,  199    335,  389, 

425,  461,  485,  501,  544,  577,  600 
Salsafy,  207,  338,  394,  426 

to  preserve  for  winter  use,  580 

Salvias,  tender,  376,  476 
Saponaria,  365 
Sarracenias,  494 
Sassafras,  313 

Satin-flower,  or  Honesty,  313 
Savin,  305 


INDEX. 


635 


Savory,  winter,  215,  340,  396,  427,  487, 

543 

summer,  215,  340,  396,427 

Saxatile  plants,  83 
Saxifragas,  sowing  seed  of,  365 

collecting,  494 

Saxifrage,  double  white,  167,  313 
Scabious,  sweet,  313,  452 
Scilla  maritima,  567 

peruviana,  567 

Scorzonera,  206,  338,  394,  426 

preserving  in  winter,  580 

Scotch  Kale.     See  Borecole 
Scurvy-grass,  officinal,  215,  546 
Sea-Kale,   208,  339,  544,  581 
Sedums,  103,  174,  418,  571 
Seedling  trees  and  shrubs,  summer  care 

of,  352,  442 

winter  care  of,  71,  587 

Sensitive  plant,  169,  311,  412,  473 

a  particular  account  of,  473 

Shaddocks,  455,  476,  495,  571 

Shady  walks,  81 

Shallots  206,  338,  544,  578 

Shell-work,  83 

Shifting  plants  out  of  smaller  into  larger 

pots  or  tubs,  best  method  of,  322,  375 
Silenes,  tender,  376 
Silk-worms,  292 
Silphiums,  365,  366,  494 
Sisyrinchiums,  for  edgings,  <fcc.,  92,  366, 

494 
Skirrets,  207   339,  426,  544,  581 

to  preserve  for  winter  use,  580 

Smallage,  215 

Snail-plant,  312,  364 

Snapdragon,  313,  364 

Sneezewort,  double,  365 

Snowdrops,  92,  95,  410,  443,  492,  523, 

567 

Snowdrop-tree,  287,  314 
Soapwort,  double,  365,  452 
Solan  urns,  hardy  shrubby,  305 

tender,  377 

Solidagoes,  92,  365,  494 

Sorrel,   broad-leaved  garden,  343,  396, 

543 
round-leaved  or  French,  343,  396, 

543 

Sour-gum  or  Tupelo-tree,  283,  305 
Southern  States,  seasons  and  culture  in, 

particularly  noticed,   31,   32,    56,   61, 

71,  142,  157,   166,  173,  223,  488,  505, 

546,  553,  556,  584,  602,  604,  606 
Southernwood,  215,  543 
Sowing  stones  and  kernels  of  fruit.    See 

Fruit. 
haws,  for  raising  thorn-quicks, 

160,  270,  556 
Spartiums,  tender,  376 
Spiderwort,  Virginian,  523 
Spigelia  marilandica,  493 
Spinage,  138,  198,  335,  392,  463 

winter,  484,  499,  534,  576 

Spindle-tree,  156 

Spiraeas,  hardy  herbaceous,  365 

Spiraea  trifoliata,  493 


Spiraea,  Filipendula,  523 

Squash,  343,  383 

St.  Peter's  wort,  314 

Stage  for  auriculas,  carnations,  &c.,  358 

Staking  new  planted  trees,  best  method 
of,  243 

Standard,    half-standard,     and     dwarf- 
standard  trees,  to  train,  68 

Star  of  Bethlehem,  96,  308,  471,  566 

Statues,  77,  83 

Stock,  annual  or  Mediterranean,  363 

Stock-gillyflowers,  97,  113,  171,313,413, 
452,  568,  591,  612 

Stocks,  the  proper  kinds  to  bud  and  graft 
on,  261 

Stools,  nursery  of  trees  and  shrubs,  64, 
300,  301 

Stopping,   or  topping   young  cucumber 
or  melon  plants,  127 

Stoves  or  Hot-houses,  methods  of  erect- 
ing, 104  to  110 

Strawberries,  forcing,  46,  112,  147,  188, 
326,  616 

spring  dressing  of,  232 

choice  of  plants,  232,  506 

the  various  kinds  of,  506 

times  and  method  of  planting, 


232,  507,  551 

making  nursery  plantations  of, 


428 


to  pot  for  forcing,  508 

autumn  dressing  of,    551 

other  necessary  care  of,  348,  401 

Strawberry -spinage,  364 
Strawberry  tiles,  233 
Strawberry-tree.     See  Arbutus  Unedo. 
Suckers,  to  propagate  trees  and  shrubs 

by,  158,  351,  570 
Sumach,  to  propagate  various  kinds  of, 

291 

tanners',  291 


Sun,  its  effects  on  frozen  plants,  168 
Sunflower,  annual,  166,  312,  364 
perennial,  167,  313 


Sweetbrier,  276 
Sweet-gum,  281,  314 
Sweet-scented  Peas,  166,  312 
Sweet-scented  shrub.     See  Calycanthus 

floridus 

Sweet-sultan,  364 
Sweet-william,  97,   113,   167,   313,  451, 

493,  523 
Sycamore,  281 
Syringas,  158 

T. 

Tacamahaca,  305 
Tamarisk,  305 

Tan,  covering  bulbs  with,  94 
procuring  fresh,  for  making  hot- 
pits  or  beds,  531 
Tansy,  27,  215,  543 
Tarragon,  27,  215,  543 
Temples,  rural  and  ornamental,  77,  83 
Ten-week  stock,  170,  188,  312,  364 
Terraces,  77,  89 
Teucriums,  376,  377 


636 


INDEX. 


Thermometer,  its  use  in  gardening,  &c., 

184 

Thickets  in  rural  and  ornamental  plant- 
ing, 82 

Thorn-quicks.    See  Quicks. 
Thorn,  double  flowering,  171,  314 
Thrift,  92,  167,  313,  523 
Thyme,  215,  396,  427,  487,  543 
Tomatoes,  216,  342,  395,  427,  464 
Transplanters,  371 
Trees  grown  in  pots,  419 
Trees,  protecting  from  cattle,  303 
Trellises  for  fruit  trees,  to  erect,  32,  33 
Trenching  and  manuring,   17,  73,  120, 

491,  546,  583,  589 

Tricolors.     See  Amaranthus  tricolor. 
Trilliums,  365,  494 
Tritonias,  175,  529 
Trumpet-flower,  305,  442 
Tuberoses,  forcing,  369 

open-ground  culture  of,  370,  412 

taking  up  the  roots,  <fcc.,  592 

Tulip-tree  (called  Poplar),  281,  314 
Tulips,  common  care  of,  &c.,  82,  94.  95, 
168,  171,  307,  356,  443,  589,  606,  612 

method  of  supporting  the  flowers, 

356 

to  take  up  and  preserve  the  roots, 

408 

•  when  to  take  them  up,  443 

to  propagate  by  seed,  493,  522 

how  and  when  to  plant  the  valu- 
able sorts,  560 

to  protect  them  in  winter,  589 

Turfing-iron,  317 
Tupelo-tree,  283,  305 
Turnips,  garden  culture   of,  207,  216, 
338,  394,  426,  485,  501 

•  •  to  preserve  in  winter,  580 

Swedish,  462 

Turnip-cabbage,  332,  387,  423 
Turnip-rooted  cabbage,  332,  387 


V. 

Valerian,  Greek,  167,  313,  452,  523 

red  garden,  365 

creeping  Greek,  523 

Vallisneria  americana,  526 

looking-glass,  166,  312,  364 

navel-wort,  166,  312,  364 

Veratrums,  494 

Verbascums,  365 

Veronicas,  365,  494 

Viburnum  prunifolium,  277 

Villa  garden,  design  for,  84  to  86 

Vinca  rosea,  412,  483 

Vine  borders  heated  artificially,  598 

Vines,  grape,  their  history  244 

.  descriptions  and  classification  of 

the  various  kinds  of,  246 

American  species  of,  252 

time   and  methods  of  pruning, 

155,  586 
time  of  planting,  254,  553,  587 


Vines,  methods  of  planting  and  propa- 
gating, 253  to  259 

to  protect  the  fruit  from  birds, 


insects,  Ac.,  509 

winter  dressing  of,  587 

to  make  wine  of  the  fruit,  509  to 

515 

to  preserve  the  fruit  of,  for  win- 
ter use,  516 

to  cure  the  fruit  for  Raisins,  £15 

Vineries,  for  forcing  grapes,  55,  517 
Vinery,  a  cold,  173 
Vineyards,  to  manure,  61,  154 

to  make  poles  for  the  vines,  60 

soil  and  situation  fit  for,  252 

preparation  of  the  soil,  253 

preparations  for,  and  methods  of 

planting,  254,  258 

time  of  planting,  253,  553,  587 

time  and   methods   of  pruning, 

155,  586 
work  to  be  done  in  for  January, 

60.      February,     154.      March,    244. 

April,    349.     May,  403.     June,   440. 

July,  466.     August,  490.    September, 

509.     October,  553.     November,  586. 

December,  605. 
Violets,  167,  313,  493,  567 
Virgin's-bower,  305?  442 


W. 

Walchendorfias,  175,  529 
Walks,  shady,  82 

grass,  to  make,  317,  373 

gravel,  to  make,  372 


Wall-flowers,  double,  97,  171,  413,  568, 
591,  612        • 

sowing  seed  of,  313 


Wall-flowers,  transplanting  seedling,  451 
Wall-trees,  the  general  meaning  of,  117 
to  train  when  young,  34,  68,  223, 


224 


to  prune.     See  Pruning. 

to  summer  prune,  465 

Walnut-tree,  the  English,  56,  244,  282, 

314,  556 

Wasps,  to  destroy,  466,  509 
Waterfalls,  80  « 

Water,  importance  of  in  gardening,  344 
Water-pieces,  or  sheets,  79 
Watsonias,  175,  455,  529 
Weigela  amabilis,  289 
Wilderness,  76 
Willow,  weeping  or  drooping,  80 

hedges,  276 

various  kinds  of,  to  propagate, 

305,  554 
Wine,    the   method   of    making   white, 

509 

making  red,  511 

general  remarks  on  the  making 

of,  513 

how  to  clarify,  515 

Winter-cress,  488,  501,  576 
Witch-hazel,  314 


INDEX. 


63T 


Worms  in  fruit-trees,  to   destroy,  149, 

238 
"Wormwood,  215 

X. 

Xeranthemum,  hardy  annual,  3£4 
tender  sorts  of,  376,  476 


T. 

Yew-tree,  165,  276,  305,  351 
Yuccas,  tender,  376 


Z. 


Zennia,  364 


YC  i  0879 


^  2908  f?  4 


UNIVKRSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


